Vinegar Hill Magazine | Travel Issue

Vinegar Hill TRAVEL ISSUE

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Talk with your healthcare provider about when to start screening and the best screening option for you.

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INSIDE

7 WHERE THE EARTH CURVES

Darnell Lamont Walker

10 MY CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA TRAVEL CHECKLIST

Joy Loving

16 READER DREAM DESTINATIONS

Various Contributors

18

Seventh Heaven: Itineraries for Indonesia & Malaysia

By Michaela Franklin

24 EXPERIENCE SANTO DOMINGO LIKE A DOMINICAN

Alexa Rodríguez

28 INSIDE EGYPT

Michaela Franklin

32 WHEN IN ROME...

Katrina Spencer

Vinegar Hill Magazine™ is a space that is designed to support and project a more inclusive social narrative, to promote entrepreneurship, and to be a beacon for art, culture, and politics in the Central Virginia region. Editor & Content Manager Katrina Spencer Advertising and Sales Manager(s) SteppeMedia Publisher Eddie Harris COO Sarad Davenport © 2023 Vinegar Hill Magazine™. All rights reserved.

From the Editor

Dear Readers,

Isend you a warm hello on behalf of Vinegar Hill Magazine (VHM). My name is Katrina Spencer and since December 2022, I have been guiding much of the content that appears on the web for our magazine and in print. I am a Los Angeles native and have lived in Charlottesville for almost three years. My education, work, relationships, and curiosity have taken me to a variety of corners of the globe and we here at VHM are trying something new in offering up our first travel issue.

Katrina Spencer Editor & Content Manager

Certain segments of the Black American population are no strangers to international travel. History, particularly in times of war, has sent Black military and medical personnel overseas to France, Germany, Italy, and Japan since at least World War I. In the mid-20th century, members of the Black literati like James Baldwin and entertainers like Josephine Baker became voluntary and beloved expatriates in France. Others, too, like Eartha Kitt and Tina Turner went to reside in Europe as a refuge from racism, blacklisting, and the hypervisibility of fame. And today, our uber famous music artists like Beyoncé stage worldwide tours on every settled continent.

While many of these experiences have represented atypical or exceptional experiences, as we move towards greater success and more discretionary income, we are setting our sights on locales far and wide more often. The surge of Black travel is well within its moment. No matter the motivation, in this issue, we are documenting some of the corners of the globe that have enamored us and sharing some of the tips you can adopt to prepare for your next adventure.

Explore the world with us on trips to Colombia, the Dominican Republic, Israel, Malaysia, Peru, Senegal, and more! In all your flipping and scrolling, remember, too, to investigate Charlottesville’s Sister Cities Travel Scholarship Program that could take you to Bulgaria, France, Ghana, Guatemala, or Italy! And as a bonus, scan this QR code to enjoy a thematic, musical, multi-genre playlist we have prepared to get you in the travel mood.

By Darnell Lamont Walker

t was on the rooftop of a hostel in 2015, in the middle of Lima, Peru’s Miraflores neighborhood where I realized what I was doing in the world and the beauty behind it all. Three months prior, in Bogotá, Colombia, I sat at a dining room table in a beautiful hostel in Zona G with men and women I hadn’t known just a few hours earlier. We were talking about the day we spent together admiring the views from Monserrate, getting stuck in the middle of the jungle full of perros peligrosos (dangerous dogs) with an Uber driver who took a wrong turn, and searching for hot chocolate with a sweet cheese melted into it to warm us up a bit in the evening. We shared stories. Laurie was in her last days as a traveler through South America before returning home to Berlin to start teaching elementary school. Jasmin and Canadian Mike met years ago at a concert somewhere thousands of miles from both their home countries and decided a life of traveling, hopping on boats and tiny engine planes with priests, open-minded and available friends, and sex workers was better than a life of sitting still. And there I was, sitting and smiling, knowing I’d found my tribe – the people with rich lives tinged with loneliness and longing because we know moments like that one are rare. I’d

be leaving the next day, and like any time I have to return to the U.S., I was sad. Stewart, another American, was with us all day and loved the energy just as much as I did. His flight was a couple of hours after mine and we agreed to ride to the airport together.

Where The Earth I Curves

First that evening in Lima, I played pool with the Germans on holiday and drank caipirinhas with a French woman who made it her business to express her love of Jimmy Baldwin to me-- caipirinhas made by the Laotian bartender with a beautiful tattooed sleeve and only three days left on her visa. I’m sure those drinks are what gave me the courage to show off my bad salsa moves to the rooftop full

of strangers-turned-friends, twisting my hips, overlapping my feet to “Dile a Ella” by Victor Manuelle. When the song came to an end, I heard, “Oh my god, Darnell?” It shot across the rooftop, from the bar to the dance floor. I turn to see Stewart, holding a beer, smiling big, and his arms stretched for a hug. I couldn’t help but to smile back and hug my friend.

That last morning, in the Bogotá hostel, months before the rooftop in Lima, Stewart never showed. I’d always wondered if he made it to the airport and home safely. We ordered a drink for me and found a seat at the bar to catch up.

Stewart woke up that morning in Bogotá to meet me in the lobby, but before I came down, an Australian traveler entered the lobby from his room, keys in hand, and looked over to Stewart and asked the words I always hoped someone would ask me: “Wanna go on an adventure?” The Australian bought a truck because it was cheaper than getting a ticket home, and he decided he’d drive through South America. He didn’t know Stewart, but he knew he looked like a fun passenger and sometimes-driver. Stewart accepted and the two took off. I sat in amazement, listening to the story, wondering how I’d tell it to others.

It was talking to Stewart on that rooftop that I realized how much I loved the stories the world poured into me. I loved collecting tribe members. I was in the world to collect them, whether they were mine or others’. I’m in the world to share them and I want that for others.

I want others to know the feeling of laughing in a hostel with people who understand them more than anyone else they’ve ever known. I want them to know the feeling of the wind in their face as they bike by the Achilleion Palace through the Greek isle of Corfu. I want them to know what it feels like to walk through Luxembourg with a lover, holding hands in pockets to stay warm, following behind a slow-moving cookie truck to see where it’ll park. I want them to taste the cookies and wonder if they love it more than the person whose hand they’re holding.

Darnell Lamont Walker takes a surf lesson in Bali, Indonesia

Darnell Lamont Walker clicks his heels at the Gates of Heaven in Pura Luhur Lempuyang, Bali

I want them to drive from Milan to Monaco and wonder how so much beauty can exist in the world. I want to send them to South Africa to reconnect with the same incredible friends who years ago renamed me “Sizwe” in a grand celebration, and I want them all to rid themselves of the things that hold them back in North America.

Stewart and I said our goodbyes, sure we’d see each other again, perhaps in 2032 on the walking trail that goes from South Africa to Russia, walking in opposite directions. Perhaps chasing birds near the Monastery of Santa Maria in the Italian city of Tropea or reaching for beauty in the

Ashikaga Flower Park in Japan. It’ll happen. Until then, I’ll continue collecting stories and sharing them with anyone who listens. I’ll keep urging others to do the same.

Darnell Lamont Walker is a self-proclaimed true explorer and runs the travel company, Passport Required (passportrequired.com), making travel accessible and affordable, taking strangers-turn-family on secret trips throughout the world to dance, eat, laugh, and see the sun shine in places where the earth curves.

Darnell Lamont Walker swings against a blue sky at the Swing at the End of the World in Baños, Ecuador

My CarTagena, ColoMbia Travel CheCklisT

By Joy Loving

In the spring of 2023, I will go on a week-long trip to Cartagena, Colombia. Cartagena is the fifth largest city in Colombia, and it hosts more than 1 million residents. The city’s economy is growing rapidly, with tourism being one of its most popular sectors. Known for its picturesque colonial architecture, lively music scene, and delicious cuisine, Cartagena has become an increasingly popular destination for travelers looking to explore the beauty and culture of Colombia.

Perhaps what Cartagena is mostknown for is its robust AfroColombian population. Forty-five percent of Cartagena’s inhabitants are of African descent. To visit Cartagena means taking a trip through the expansive and rich cultural history of the region, with an emphasis on music, art, and people. There are countless things a person can do while visiting Cartagena – my itinerary is full of activities like visiting the first free African town in South America, San Basilio De Palenque, taking a local cooking class, and bathing in a mud volcano.

South America would be to Brazil, but once I saw the opportunity to travel to Colombia, I couldn’t pass it up. This time, I will be traveling with a group through Adventure in Black, a black-woman-owned and operated travel agency and event company that designs experiences specifically for Black professionals. The company provides a suggested packing list along with other pertinent information about registering with immigration and how to navigate Cartagena like the locals.

What I'm Packing

This will be my second trip to South America. My first was to Peru in 2015 with a Washington, DC-based travel group I found via Meetup.com. I always thought my second trip to

One thing I’m nervous about is not packing enough outfits. Cartagena is located in a tropical climate zone, and the weather is expected to be in the 80s (Fahrenheit). So I plan to pack light and breathable clothing–hello, sundresses!-- as well as plenty of sunscreen and insect repellent. I'm going to bring comfortable walking shoes, as many of the city's attractions are within walking distance of each other. In addition to mud bathing, one of my activities involves taking a boat tour with the option of swimming, so I'm going to bring a couple of swimsuits and towels.

A local woman in Cartagena balances fruit atop her head

Joy Loving shares some of the light and colorful clothing she will wear on her trip to Cartagena, Colombia.

CarTagena is hoMe To a WealTh of CulTural and hisToriCal aTTraCTions, as Well as plenTy of opporTuniTies for advenTure and relaxaTion.

Getting There

I'll be arriving in Cartagena at the Rafael Núñez International Airport, which offers direct flights from many major cities in the United States, Europe, and Latin America. Once I arrive in Cartagena, I can take a taxi or shuttle bus to my hotel. Luckily for me, transportation to and from the airport is provided by Adventure in Black.

Joy Loving is taking special supplies including insect repellent and sunscreen on her trip to Cartagena.

Accommodations

Cartagena offers a wide range of accommodations to suit every budget and preference, from luxurious resorts to affordable hostels. To get a taste of traditional Cartagena culture, my travel group and I are staying in one of the

many boutique hotels located in the historic walled city. These properties offer unique and authentic experiences, with charming courtyards, rooftop terraces, and other amenities that capture the essence of Cartagena's colonial past.

Communication

I'll be able to communicate with my friends and family even while overseas thanks to a global travel data plan with my cell phone provider. My fellow travelers and I also plan to communicate with each other over Whatsapp. We’ve been given a list of emergency numbers and numbers for our group leaders in case we get separated or another emergency occurs.

The amount of Spanish that I know is minimal. I’ve learned enough through Duolingo to know basic

The Plaza de Bolívar

knoWn for iTs piCTuresque Colonial arChiTeCTure, lively MusiC sCene, and deliCious Cuisine, CarTagena has beCoMe an inCreasingly popular desTinaTion for Travelers looking To explore The beauTy and CulTure of ColoMbia.

phrases that will help me when I’m ordering food, buying gifts, or asking for transportation. For phrases that I don’t know, I will rely on Google Translate.

Things To Do in Cartagena

Cartagena is home to a wealth of cultural and historical attractions, as well as plenty of opportunities for adventure and relaxation. Some of the must-see sights I may visit include:

The Castillo San Felipe de Barajas: This massive fortress was built by the Spanish in the 17th century to protect against pirate attacks. Today, it offers panoramic views of the city and is a popular spot for tourists and locals alike.

The Cartagena Cathedral: Located in the heart of the walled city, this ornate cathedral was built in the 16th century and is one of the most iconic landmarks in Cartagena.

The Rosario Islands: Located just off the coast of Cartagena, these idyllic islands offer pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and a wide range of outdoor activities, including snorkeling, scuba diving, and kayaking.

Overall, the anticipated cost of the trip will be around $3,000. This includes seven days of accommodation, meals, activities, and flights. Not bad!

A trip to Cartagena, Colombia offers a unique opportunity to explore the rich history and culture of this vibrant city. Whether you're interested in architecture, art, music, or outdoor adventures, Cartagena has something to offer every traveler. With careful planning and preparation, you can ensure that your trip to this beautiful destination is safe, enjoyable, and unforgettable. Now, I'm going to pack my bags, brush up on my Spanish, and get ready to discover all that Cartagena has to offer!

WheTher you’re inTeresTed in arChiTeCTure, arT, MusiC, or ouTdoor advenTures, CarTagena has soMeThing To offer every Traveler.

reader dreaM desT

For Vinegar Hill Magazine’s first travel issue, we collected submissions from our readers about dream destinations they would like to visit and/or favorite trips they have taken abroad. We asked you to tell us about the locale outside the United States that has been calling to you or the place where you have already made fantastic memories abroad. Here is a compilation of your responses.

”Egypt. For the pyramids and history.” -Alexa Rodriguez

“I traveled to Lagos, Nigeria and Accra, Ghana. I went to explore the motherland and understand where my roots were created.”

-Angela Estes, 63

“Nigeria. My late father was from there and I have never been, so I need to take a trip to the homeland. It’s time.”

-Jessica Ngo, 38

TinaTions

“Sint Maarten/ Saint Martin. The blend of Afro-Caribbean, French and Dutch cultures. The unmatched landscapes, especially the beautiful caves. The navigability of the 13 square mile. Island.” -Vincent Jones II, 33

“There are so many places on my travel list, but I’d love to visit Thailand! The lush and vibrant scenery, the historic and cultural sites, and the cuisine to name a few.” -Jessica Harris

“Thailand. It had been high on my list of places to visit primarily for the food and the people, the warm weather and exotic beaches. I had a good friend from Thailand who always promised that if I visited, he would treat me like a queen. He did not disappoint.” -Khandle Hedrick, 38

“South Korea. I'm interested in learning about the fashion and beauty products. And the cuisine, I'm sure, is phenomenal.” -Katrina Spencer, 38

Thank you for your engagement and we hope that your next trip is all you’ve wished for!

sevenTh

heaven

ItInerarIes for IndonesIa & MalaysIa

by Michaela Franklin, a contributor based in Oman who travels with her partner. She has provided all of the photos for this piece.

Bali, Indonesia

We recently visited Bali, a popular island province for tourism in Indonesia, as part of a longer trip and we stayed in the country for about five days, which was amazing! Our trip took us to both touristy Ubud and metropolitan Seminyak. All costs listed below are in U.S. dollars.

Stay

Initially we stayed at Bee House Sanctuaries, which cost $173- $280 per night, depending on the suite. The villa we had was shaped like a bee. It came with a lovely pool and the villa was spacious with a large floating tub and shower. We enjoyed floating breakfast, spa services, and staff also arranged our tour and transport. Afterwards we rented a large private villa at Samkhya Villa resort at a cost of $100 per night. Our villa was located right off Ubud City center. It was big and lovely and had both a nice private pool and views of the valley. It was incredibly peaceful. The villa even had a shower that was completely outside.

Okay, so look: if you are not a nature person this may not be for you. A lot of the villas there have an indoor/ outdoor concept for the bathrooms. Where part of the bathroom is basically outside. It's covered but it's not also shut off in a typical way. For example at our second villa, the bathtub was completely in the forest. I LOVED this part, but my boyfriend was not as amused.

For the last portion, we stayed at a Marriott property, Fairfield Bali Legion at $80 and up and per night for the suites.) We stayed in the one bedroom king suite with a whirlpool. I would highly recommend it, as it's super close to most of the clubs and bars.

Transportation

Getting around is super cheap using cabs/taxis. Okay, so for Ubud, let me keep it a buck: as soon as drivers hear your accent or find out you're a Westerner, they are definitely going to charge you more. There are no taxi apps allowed in the area so the private guys have a monopoly and charge whatever they feel like. You can negotiate or not. Just keep in mind that 100,000 Indonesian rupiah (IDR) is about $6, so if you really want to haggle over a dollar or two, that's your business. For longer trips, we negotiated but for the most part

for local taxis we just left it alone, sometimes it was not worth the headache and time. Once you get into Seminyak, however, there are taxi apps where you get a flat rate or by meter charge. We used the Grab app.

Activities

We visited the Aloha Swing Ubud/ Tegalalang Rice Field, which is basically the famous swing and rice fields that you see in typical photos. The cost to enter is about $3 for two people. We did the swing, zipline, and nest photo shoot. Most things cost less than $20. Our whole day tour including a private car and travel guide was roughly $50. Do bring cash to make sure you tip the tour guides and the swing operators. TRUST ME these dudes work to get you the perfect shot.

The Ubud Monkey Forest was a super fun experience! The monkeys are just as mannish as those videos and pictures floating around online suggest. The monkeys roam very freely and will often jump or try to touch you. So if you have a real fear of animals, don't do it because you will faint.

Be advised that the Tirta Empul Water Palace is a religious site and will require modest attire. Workers there supply sarongs and coverings for tourists. It's a beautiful experience. The temple is big, with large bathing sites, and prayer offerings.

When we arrived in Indonesia, we came on the heels of Nyepei, which is the new year. The celebration is all-night and is highlighted by a carnival which includes a show where the locals created huge figurines/ statues out of bamboo, clay, and other materials. It's a very similar vibe to West Indian carnivals, with all of the dancing and food- just more clothing.. lol. It's amazing honestly. We stayed out on the streets until the wee hours watching the shows and community presentations.

The next day was a silent day, which means a day of rest and tribute. This meant no one could go outside and all businesses were closed. We were confined to the resort, but it was fine with us. We used the time as a spa day and just enjoyed all the lovely inroom dining and gorgeous views from our villa. Also, while Bali is known as extremely hot and humid, the weather was actually pretty mild.

While traveling, I like to make a point to stay or buy local. We went to a few salons where we tried ear candling

and a variety of other massages and services. Juwani Mani Salon is highly recommended. It's in the cut but the ladies are really sweet. The spa services in Indonesia are extremely cheap.

With regards to nightlife in the town of Ubud, Seminyak is where the majority of the clubs are, but Ubud’s center area has a few places, too. We went to a place called CP Lounge. It had multiple rooms, a live band, a dj, bars, billiards, and a pool.

For Seminyak, I highly recommend La Favela. It's inspired by Brazilian culture and was originally a mansion that got repurposed. It has three floors and lots of bars/rooms with super cool, eclectic vibes and definitely a photoshoot-worthy scene. It's also located off of one of the more popular strips, so you can walk outside and club hop if you want.

We also went to Mirror, which is a club kind of tucked away from the main strip. The inside is decorated like a gothic church. The windows are also colorful mosaic, and the inside is dark and lit only in purple lights. The DJ played mostly hip-hop, amapiano, and Afrobeats. We highly recommend a trip to Bali. We are definitely going to make it a repeat trip!

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Malaysia is a gem. I think the best way to describe Kuala is: COOL. It’s urban, cosmopolitan, and grey. Skyscrapers and millions of city lights dot the skyline. The city was a complete 180 from the relaxed island vibes of Bali. While we originally had plans to do an outdoor retreat and a few excursions outside the city, it rained heavily most of the time we were there, so this limited our activities to indoors and inside the city.

Stay

We stayed at the W Kuala Lumpur, which cost between $461 and $518 per night for the suites. I want to take this time to focus mainly on Malaysian hospitality. It was hands down some of the best customer service I’ve ever received. Everyone was warm and willing to go the extra mile to try to make our experience the best. This wasn’t just in the hotel; it was just in general exchanges overall.

So let me tell you about the W. I’ve stayed in W hotels in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, and Jordan. However, I think the W Kuala is my favorite of them all. My boyfriend was celebrating a birthday and prior to our arrival, I informed the staff of our upcoming visit. They went above and beyond to make sure his weekend was special. The events manager, Erul, deserves a huge shoutout for really making this experience extraordinary.

The W Kuala is luxury. Straight up. First off, the first amenity you are greeted with at reception is a vending machine of Moet champagne. YES. There is a vending machine that disburses only Moet. You can imagine that this set the tone for us for the remainder of our stay.

We stayed in the Marvelous Suite, which lives up to its name. The bathroom is massive, the living room was dope, and the bed was literally fluffy angel soft mattress goodness. We were not mad AT ALL about staying inside and not leaving that wonderful place.

The hotel has a ton of options, which really worked well for the weather restrictions. Our favorite place was Flock, the main dining restaurant. It serves a HUGE breakfast buffet. I’ve never seen so many options for food. Because we have stayed at a number of Marriott hotels, you start to memorize and predict the breakfast layout, but W Kuala surprised me completely. I also loved the live cooking stations and how the kitchen was part inside and outside the restaurant. For lunch we were treated to a lovely eight-course sampler menu. We enjoyed a mix of local and foreign dishes such as the char kway teow, the barramundi, the bubur cha cha, raw oysters, mussels, and the club sandwich.

Transportation

Aside from the weather, one of the other reasons why we were a bit restricted was due to Ramadan, a religious period of fasting during daylight hours. While not severely strict, there were still some adjustments city-wide out of respect for the culture.

Getting around we used a driver for one day and mainly used the Grab app for taxis. Taxis are fairly cheap as well. Most of our trips were about four to five bucks at most.

Activities

We enjoyed a nice pool day at the Wet Deck. It was massive with an industrial aesthetic. It also may just have the best view in town with the Patrona Twin Towers directly in front of the building. At night, the Wet Deck turns into a very sexy happy hour complete with dj and live music. After our pool day, we decided to hang out at Woobar, which was fashioned like a modern version of a speakeasy. We enjoyed nice sundowner cocktails with fish, caviar, and chicken tapas.

Shopping-wise, there’s a lot to choose from and most of the major malls are within a one kilometer radius of one another. I suggest Starhill Mall, which is the newest addition to the line up. I would also recommend the Pavilion Mall.

My boyfriend is a big watch aficionado, so for one of his birthday gifts, I hired a private driver, and booked a tour

with a few Swiss watch favorites. We visited Rolex, Patek Phillippe, and Audemars Piguet. You know how I mentioned earlier that Malaysian customer service is exceptional? If you are familiar with the watch climate right now, it’s nearly impossible to find and receive a watch without being put on a waiting list that can go anywhere from three months to three years, depending on what watch you are looking for. We have visited the same retailers in four other countries, however, let’s just say my boyfriend came out way happier with his experience in Malaysia versus other boutiques.

One of the other highlights for me in Malaysia was kombucha! For all of my kombucha enthusiasts, Malaysia is the promised land. For those unfamiliar kombucha is a fermented drink made with tea, sugar, bacteria, and yeast. Despite the mixture, it’s absolute deliciousness! There was an overabundance of kombucha in quite literally every retail space we went to. There were so many flavors to choose from, from blueberry to passion fruit. I was in seventh heaven.

e xperienCe sanTo doMingo like a doMiniCan

the oldest continuously inhabited European settlement in the Americas. The city's Zona Colonial, or Colonial Zone, was even declared as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. A bustling city of over 4.5 million people filled with history and culture, as well as plenty of scenic views, it is no wonder Santo Domingo is one of my favorite Caribbean destinations.

A photo of Zona Colonial (Colonial Zone), Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, photo provided by Alexa Rodríguez

I’ve been traveling to Santo Domingo since I was only months old, and I have visited the city over 20 times since for work, family, and tourism.

Here are my top 7 places to visit in Santo Domingo:

Zona Colonial (Colonial Zone)

By Alexa Rodríguez

Most Americans looking for a memorable Caribbean getaway find themselves surrounded by ads or Instagram posts of the picturesque beaches of Punta Cana or La Romana in the Dominican Republic-also lovingly known as “the D.R.” But I’m here to tell you that there is much more to explore in this tropical country beyond the all-inclusive resorts and tourist hotspots. If you’re looking to experience authentic Dominican culture, tour historic sites, and taste incredible food while still being in close proximity to the crystal-clear blue water the Caribbean is known for, consider traveling to the Dominican Republic’s capital of Santo Domingo.

Santo Domingo’s international airport (SDQ) has flights coming in from Richmond (RIC), Washington, D.C. (IAD), and Baltimore (BWI), making it

a convenient and affordable travel destination for travelers based in Central Virginia. It is the largest city in the Dominican Republic and is

As a lover of history, my absolute favorite part of the city is its Zona Colonial. There you can visit the Cathedral of Santa María la Menor, the first and oldest in America founded in 1504, tour the Museo De Las Casas Reales, a chocolate tour with Kahkow Experience, sip on Dominican rum in Sugarcane La Casa Del Ron, stop by Casa de los Dulces for authentic Dominican sweets, or pop into one of the many restaurants and bars in the location. (Pro tip: Zona Colonial also has many souvenir shops and street art vendors on Calle el Conde, so it is a great location to purchase some gifts for loved ones back home.) As you walk through the streets of the area, please be aware of your surroundings and belongings, particularly your phone and wallet. Like with other tourist hotspots, these can be spaces for petty theft so you try to protect yourself by avoiding common scams/tricks like these.

Museo Memorial de la Resistencia Dominicana (Memorial Museum of Dominican Resistance)

For those who are already familiar with the Dominican Republic’s infamous Dictator Rafael Trujillo who held power in the D.R. from 1930- 1961, or those who are interested in learning about this

history, you should definitely make a stop at the Museo Memorial de la Resistencia Dominicana. The International Coalition of Sites of Conscience describes the museum as an institution that “collects, organizes, preserves, researches, distributes, and displays the tangible and intangible heritage of the

struggles of several generations of Dominicans related to the dictatorship of Rafael L. Trujillo.”

Parque Mirador Sur

Looking to take a stroll in the park and catch beautiful views of the city? The Parque Mirador Sur is one of my favorite places to walk and people-watch. Early in the morning, it is filled with Dominican locals exercising along its main walkway and you can find a local coconut vendor and sip on fresh coconut water right out of the shell!

Malecón (Seafront boulevard)

Take a stroll down Santo Domingo’s boardwalk, el Malecón, and you’ll pass by bars, restaurants and hotels where you can stop by for a quick drink. You can also enjoy the beautiful view of the Caribbean Sea while also looking out for the Santo Domingo Obelisk (Obelisco de Santo Domingo), the Eugenio María de Hosto Park, San José Fort, and the statue of Antonio de Montesinos, a 16th century friar who publicly denounced the enslavement and harsh treatment of the Indigenous peoples of the

island.

A photo in Los Tres Ojos, Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, provided by Alexa Rodríguez

Los Tres Ojos (The Three Eyes National Park)

Located slightly outside of the Zona Colonial, Los Tres Ojos (The Three Eyes National Park) is a nature reserve and 50-yard, open-air, limestone cave with three lakes, or metaphorical “ojos” (eyes). It has breathtaking views for those seeking a break from the city and visitors can explore the caves by foot or boat.

Jardín Botánico Nacional (National Botanical Garden) Interested in another escape from the bustling city center? Hit up the Jardín Botánico Nacional (National Botanical Garden), a stunning nature preserve filled with native flowers and trees, including hundreds of species of orchids, which is also a great place for birdwatching. You can take a trolley tour through the area and stop by the Japanese garden for a picnic.

Beaches in Boca Chica

You came all the way to the Caribbean so of course you’re looking for some fun in the sun. Make sure to take a day trip to the white sandy beaches of Boca Chica! The serene water of the Caribbean Sea mixed with the swanky beach clubs and restaurants playing bachata and merengue makes it the best of both worlds, peaceful and fun! Be sure to plan ahead and speak with your hotel about arranging transport since the beach town is located forty minutes east of Santo Domingo.

Final tips:

As I stated before, it is important to pay attention and take precautions to keep yourself and your valuables safe as you travel. I highly recommend reviewing these tips ahead of your trip: 23 Things to Know Before Traveling to the Dominican Republic

For the First Time from Dominican Abroad and Travel Tips, Dominican

Republic Ministry of Tourism.

Since Santo Domingo is actually quite large and spread out, Ubers can be a great way to get around the city.

The sun in the Caribbean is *no joke,* so make sure to pack plenty of sunscreen and stay hydrated. You may also want to bring insect repellent for the mosquitos.

Finally, relax and have a good time!

Five Dominican words you won’t find in your travel books: vaina: Essentially this means “thing” or “stuff” but can be used in other ways like to express frustration or irritation like in “¡Qué vaina!” (What the heck!)

¡Qué chulo!: This expression means something is cute or cool. It is usually used as a compliment. If you like someone’s dress you can say, “¡Mira

qué vestido tan chulo!

chin: This means a little bit. So if someone is offering you food, and you only want a small portion you say, “Sólo un chin, por favor.”

hartura: When you’ve had too much to eat, you say, “Me di una hartura!” (I ate too much!).

guagua: If you need to catch a bus and are looking for the stop, be sure to ask for the parada de guagua (bus stop).

For more words to study for your trip, see the following links:

Dominicanismos: 38 Dominican Slang Words for Your Next Caribbean Getaway

Dominican Slang | Gringo’s Guide to ‘Tiguere’ Spanish

inside egypT

By Michaela

We begin in Cairo. First off, Cairo is a CITY. A large one. It’s a bustling, metropolitan community filled to the brim. The people are spirited, energetic, and fun. This was especially evident in our tour guides. We used the Egilika Tour Company, a family-owned business, and the cost for their services was $1,400. I’d highly recommend them.

Note that tourism is a huge field of study and most tour guides there actually hold bachelor’s and master’s degrees in tourism. You can see the difference in this, in terms of how seamless and informational the tours are. Every day was an adventure and we learned a ton.

Pyramids/Giza

Because this is what you came for, right?

We decided to visit the Pyramids on Christmas day. Let me manage your expectations. It is NOT like in the movies. You know how in the movies, when you arrive everything opens up, there’s a long trail, and you can hear the trumpets blazing? Yeah, it’s none of that. First off, the pyramids are basically in the city. If you are familiar with the Washington Monument and the National Mall, it’s like living in Washington, D.C. and seeing the monument everyday.

When you first arrive, there’s a heavily guarded entrance area and it’s super crowded with way too many tour buses and taxis. Also Cairo is heavily militarized with police, police guards, and foot cops EVERYWHERE. But once you enter? My GOD. It is beautiful. The pyramids are huge and truly a wonder of the world. The sheer engineering involved is genius.

Take ALL the pictures. Do all the corny things like ride the camels, use props, go into the tombs. We visited the tomb of King Khufu. If you are claustrophobic, it’s NOT for you. It is a long steep walk directly upstairs. The space is

only about six feet high at most and about five feet across. The “stairs” are super rickety. People are going up and coming back down in the same hallway. It’s also hot. We are an adventurous lot, so we toughed it out and played Afrobeats on our phones the whole way up to keep things happy and upbeat.

Stay

We opted to stay in the middle of the city at The Nile Ritz Carlton, which costs $150-180 per night. The Ritz is super central, and close to mainly everything. A lot of people choose to stay at resorts in Giza. But Giza is close to nothing but the pyramids. If you are a person who prefers to explore the city and see local stuff, stay somewhere central. The traffic is crazy heavy in Cairo, so you’ll be able to get the most out of your trip if you stay closer in.

Transportation & Food

We had a driver for most of our tour-related visits. For pre- and post-tour activities, we just Ubered, which is inexpensive. Also Talabat, which is the Uber Eats/Door Dash of the Middle East, is also really

cheap. Before arriving, I was already a huge fan of Egyptian cuisine. Definitely try koshary. My favorite dish is kawara’a, which is basically cow feet in a delicious soup. (Think pig feet and hot sauce for my Southerners.) Also note: while most places accept US dollars. Make sure to grab some local currency, specifically for taxis and tips. A typical tip is 18 to 20 percent. PLEASE tip.

Excursions Nile River Cruise/Belly Dancing

We had dinner at a cruise ship. It was advertised as a luxury cruise, but didn’t quite live up to the hype. My suggestion: most tours include this excursion as part of a package deal. Find out your excursion destinations beforehand. The belly dancing, however, was FIRE. I was obsessed with the dancer. What the atmosphere lacked, the dancing definitely made up for. We also enjoyed belly dancing at our hotel. While the atmosphere was dope, it was a bit sterile. We got a few referrals for some local places and decided to head there.

Another tip: if you stay at a hotel, don’t ask the hotel

Franklin, a contributor based in Oman who travels with her partner. All photos are provided by Michaela Franklin.

reception staff or the concierge for the best places for nightlife because they are probably going to send you to the local tourist spots. Ask the drivers, the maître d’hotel, servers, and hostesses where the best places are. Whenever I travel, while I love all things bougie, I like a local atmosphere in the mix as well. I’m less interested in places where there’s a lot of Western tourists, as the vibe can sometimes be watered down. I want to hear music in local languages, listen to live bands, and eat street food and local cuisine. If I wanted to see a bunch of Americans and eat westernized food, I would visit the States. For Cairo, I really wanted a more local experience, and luckily we had a nice mixture of that.

Citadel

The Citadel is a very historic landmark and is also the site where the first irrigation system was created. It also is home to the Great Mosque of Muhammad. The Mosque is absolutely beautiful. When visiting here or any mosque, make sure you dress modestly.

Sharm El Sheikh

If you are looking for a more resort-like feel with beachy vibes then Sharm El Sheikh is for you. This is definitely a popular tourist location. We stayed at Rixos Sharm El Sheikh at $500 to $580 per night. Make sure you pick the adult side.

Michaela Franklin poses outside the Mosque of Muhammad in Cairo, Egypt.

Shopping

If you like luxury things, the First Mall, located at the Four Seasons hotel is about a ten-minute drive to the Ritz. You will find most luxury brands there, including but not limited to Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Gucci, Bvlgari, Emporio Armani, and more. At the end of each tour day, you are typically sent to a few shops wherein you will be directed to purchase items from a commission sales person. In some cases, your tour guide will also receive a percentage.

I’ll keep it 100: many don’t like this portion and felt like it was a hustle for Western tourists to spend money. To that point, I say, you can simply say NO. No one is forcing you to buy anything. Tourism is the economy in Egypt. This is how locals make income.

We ended up with some lovely

souvenirs for ourselves and for our families. I would recommend the Royal Perfume and Oils shop and Gold Souk areas. The perfumery itself was like a small museum, filled with gorgeous colorful oil cases, and the guests were lovely and engaging.

Also, I love to haggle and negotiate- maybe too much- so I love the idea of going into a place and bargaining. If this is not your idea of a good time, don’t go to the souks, or basically any place with a market because hustling and negotiating is a way of life in Egypt.

All in all, I enjoyed our time in Egypt. Though I liked Cairo, I’m not pressed to go again. Next time, we will try South Egypt, specifically Luxor and Aswan as that’s where most of the “folks,” also known as the “Nubians,” reside.

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When in roMe...

By Katrina Spencer

Twenty years ago I made my first trip abroad to Buenos Aires, Argentina. I was 18 and had long been curious about the world. There I learned about milanesa, a popular breaded meat cutlet dish, the Iguaçu waterfalls that shared a border with Brazil, and the dynamic of homestay living. I was there for three months and, if history reveals anything, it appears I was bit hard by the travel bug. The next 20 years would take me on adventures to over 10 additional countries on at least three continents. Once you start, as they say, you can’t stop. Costa Rica, England, Ghana, Mexico, Nicaragua, Senegal, Spain… if there was an opportunity to get there by plane, I was on it. Amongst many Black American crowds, I’d be considered a seasoned traveler. In others, I’d wear the badge of modest adventurer. As the world grows smaller with the advent of online communities, travelers learn to hack the systems for cheap flights, and borders seem not so far away as they once were. More and more Black Americans are packing our bags and renewing or applying for our passports for adventures abroad-- and even permanent stays as expatriates. From the little that I know, let me hip you to some tips, cultural faux pas, and pitfalls to avoid for tourists that will better prepare firsttime travelers for what they may encounter abroad. Here's some thematic music, too, to enjoy along the way.

AFRICA Ghana

There are many open air markets where customers can find fresh produce and artisanal goods. Tip: Many Ghanaians are superstitious about their first sale of the day, believing that their first successful sale will be prophetic for a day full of profitable sales. So, if you arrive as the first customer at a business owner’s stand, you are more likely to be able to secure a well negotiated bargain as it is in the vendor’s favor

to close their first sale as opposed to not making one at all. Prices on goods are unlikely to be listed. It is standard practice and expected for the buyer to suggest a price, for the seller to ply for more, and for the two meet somewhere in the middle. Moreover, after you make a selection of an item you desire and seek out a price, don’t be surprised when you’re asked, “What else are you looking for?” The seller would prefer for you to do all your spending in

their shop as opposed to spreading your spending money around. Often a vendor will prefer to settle

on one price for an entire bulk of items than to negotiate piecemeal.

Katrina Spencer (right) and her homestay brother drink coconut water in Dakar, Senegal, West Africa.

Senegal

Negotiation of prices at small businesses and for cabs is also customary in Senegal. Travelers, for example, should negotiate a fare before getting in a cab and try to keep small bills for appropriate payment.

Don’t rely on your driver to have change for large bills.

While Islam and Christianity are practiced in Senegal, it is the Islamic tradition of greeting others exclusively with the right hand that reigns supreme. Historically, the left hand has been reserved for the maintenance of personal hygiene and offering it in a greeting can show a negligent lapse of training. Islamic traditions will also appear elsewhere. For example, expect to hear the call to prayer throughout the land and the Arabic “Allahu akbar!” (God is great!) to be projected through the local mosque’s speakers.

ASIA

Full disclosure: I have yet to make it to any of the countries that make up the broad expanse that is Asia. I have no doubt I’ll make it there over the course of my life. There are innumerable draws: the temples for people on spiritual journeys in places like Thailand; the rising popularity of K-pop music in South Korea; and new and colorful treats like jalebi in India that I’ve long been curious about. I keep my ear to the ground collecting bits and pieces of information deciding which destination will be my next. In doing so, I’m exposed to news that educates me in ways I may not have expected. For example, I have learned that what may be considered

inoffensive in the West can be criminal elsewhere. I am not deterred from my future visits, but I am better informed as a result of keeping abreast of international discourse. Let me use this section as an opportunity to encourage readers to not only look for great travel deals but also to avoid poor intercultural communication and stereotypes associated with “the ugly American” tourist.

Did you know that in Singapore it’s against the law to chew gum? That an Iranian couple was handed a prison sentence for the subversive act of dancing in the streets? Or that Indonesia banned sex outside marriage? Also remember the case of University of Virginia student Otto Warmbier who was detained in North Korea for acts considered seditious. While chewing gum, dancing, and having sex may not raise concerns at home, in some parts of the world, certain seemingly mundane acts can be seen as threatening to the social order.

The last thing I want to do is malign Asia. From what I am told, Asia offers affordable travel options, delicious cuisines, and uncanny experiences with nature. What I do want to do is underscore the importance of researching your destination’s cultural norms before departure from home and setting appropriate expectations in advance for yourself and the members of your travel party. Knowing the political climate and cultural morés wherever you go and making an effort to display exemplary behavior is essential to successful travel experiences.

EUROPE Spain

Be careful with the phrase “Te invito” (I invite you.) In English, “I’d like to invite you to…” means “I’d love to share your company.” In Spanish it means “I’d like to see you so much at this event/site that I am willing to pay the bill for the both of us.” I learned this the hard way so you don’t have to.

Having spent two years in Spain, I also found it much more common to readily engage in political discussion in public settings. In a broad swath of social crowds in the United States, it isn’t considered as polite to discuss topics considered sensitive or controversial openly. In Spain,

Katrina Spencer stands in front of the Sacré-Coeur church in Paris, France, Europe.

it would be odd for a party guest not to engage a slew of discussion topics despite their sensitivity. Here, political discussions might be likened to a game of dodge ball in which players strategically avoid matters that might offend. There? It’s more like doubles in tennis: you’re not doing it right unless everyone gets a chance to strike the ball.

CENTRAL AMERICA Costa Rica

When I went to San José in 2008 to

visit my grandfather, the country was as beautiful as the postcards suggested with ample nature reserves and wildlife and cool water sports. One thing that surprised me was that when my grandfather gave directions to a taxi driver, it went a little something like this: “Drive one kilometer north, hang a right where the old church used to be, and drive 800 meters east. Then arrive in the driveway at the house with the red roof.” I’m not sure to what extent mapping and driving instructions

have been updated in the last 15 years, but I found the reliance on common, local knowledge new, challenging, and exciting. It certainly took me beyond “123 Maple Drive.”

NORTH AMERICA Canada

I met a French man of Ivorian descent in Quebec some years ago and when we returned to Montreal from Toronto after celebrating the New Year, we parked my car on a wintry road near his place. He went to work the

Katrina Spencer stands outside of the church Igreja Nosso Senhor do Bonfim in Salvador, Brazil, South America.

following morning and when I went to retrieve my car, it wasn’t there. I found out a short time later that it had been towed to an adjacent street because we parked along a route that needed to be cleared of snow. It was hard to decipher the sign the night prior as it was dark, the information was in two languages, sometimes seemed contradictory, and there were several of them atop each other with no indication as to which was authoritative and up-to-date. Montreal’s parking signs might say something like “No parking Thursday to Sunday between 6:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. from September to April, except delivery and taxis,” and you have to check your calendar, watch, vehicle type, bilingual dictionary, and logic before you put your car in park. Take the signs seriously, and when in doubt, park further away. The walk will save you a fine. I promise it’s not just me.

Mexico

In 2010, I spent a summer in Guadalajara, Mexico. As a Los Angeles native, I didn’t feel so far from home. However, aside from avoiding the consumption of tap

Katrina Spencer’s car after it was relocated by city officials so they could clear roads of snow in Montreal, Canada, North America.

water as liquid or ice, there were at least two novelties I recall. One was that in homes and businesses, the norm was to discard used toilet paper in a trashcan adjacent to the bowl as the plumbing might not withstand the wads clogging its channels. Another was that when it rained, locals could expect flooding up to their knees in the street. I’d never waded through water so high outside of a beach atmosphere. It was a good thing I wasn’t too invested in the shoes I wore that day. If you head to Guadalajara, check the predicted weather before you go out and dress accordingly.

SOUTH AMERICA Argentina

When I first arrived to Buenos Aires, Argentina, I was a bit surprised to hear the local university students greeting each other with “boludo” (moron) and “pelotudo” (dumbass). They said these words so affectionately, smiling, with their arms open for a warm embrace. My cognitive dissonance didn’t last long because I knew that the tone they used with these words was not an indicator of verbal violence but one of intimacy and trust. Perhaps just

as certain words in local community vernaculars have been reappropriated and repurposed over time, so have these words in this capital city.

Brazil

Remember that once you travel south of the equator, the seasons reverse. So when I arrived to São Paulo, Brazil in December of ‘22, the attire called for flip flops, tank tops, and sunglasses. There were certainly no autumn leaves or icicles to behold. So if you’re looking for warm getaway from snow and blizzards, south is the way to go. The closer you are to the equator, the less likely you are to see dramatic shifts in temperature patterns.

There are countless topics to explore and discover when it comes to international travel: “passport bros,” common scams, drug trafficking, English as a global lingua franca, immunizations, LGBTQ rights, pickpockets, sex trafficking, visas, and more. And while I have shared some of my lessons above, some we must learn on our own. As I close this piece, I want to educate new travelers, encouraging us all to be aware of cases that center Black Americans like that of the detainment of Brittney Griner in Russia, the fatal cartel encounter in Matamoros, Mexico, and the Florida couple kidnapped for ransom in Haiti. While travel has historically not been a common pastime for Black Americans overall, a general lack of experience does not make us exempt from potential dangers. Be a savvy traveler, keeping your eyes open, planning ahead, taking safety measures, erring on the side of caution and, importantly, leaving room in your heart and your bag for lovely souvenirs. For more orientations from other Black travelers, see BuzzFeed, HomeExchange, and TravelNoire.

Katrina Spencer rides horses with classmates in Mexico, North America.

WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU REALLY LISTENED TO A PERSON WHO DOESN’T SEE THE WORLD LIKE YOU DO?

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