Island Guide 2022

Martha’s Vineyard

ISLAND GUIDE Best Bets & Local Favorites

W H E R E T O E AT, S TAY, S H O P, S W I M , D A N C E , H I K E , B I K E , P L AY & M O R E

2022

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ISLAND GUIDE 2022

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ISLAND GUIDE 2022

2022

ISLAND GUIDE ON-ISLAND GETTING HERE GETTING AROUND A BRIEF HISTORY

8 10 12 14

IN TOWN 18 Map: Island Towns Edgartown Oak Bluffs Vineyard Haven Up-Island

20 24 36 48 60

OUTSIDE 72 Map: Local Favorites Six Beaches, Six Personalities Happy Trails Farm Charm The Originals Get Sporty Bright Lights

74 76 80 84 92 98 104

HAPPENINGS 107 Island Time That Week in August

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LISTINGS 111 Lodging Dining Markets & Groceries Thirsty

112 112 116 117

L A S T PA G E 1 2 0

Cover: Larry Glick | This Page: Ray Ewing About the cover: South shore sunset

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ON ISLAND

Martha’s Vineyard

ISLAND GUIDE E D I TO R Susie Middleton

A R T D I R E C TO R Jane McTeigue

C O PY E D I TO R Nicole Grace Mercier

A N T I C I PAT I O N­ — A T R I P to Martha’s Vineyard is full of it. Traveling over on the ferry (or “the boat” as Islanders call it), you’re filled with excitement. You wonder where you’ll eat, where

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Liz Dolan Durkee, Louisa Hufstader, John H. Kennedy, Nicole Grace Mercier, Holly Pretsky

you’ll find a bike to rent, where the best beach on the Island (a.k.a.

A DV E R T I S I N G D E S I G N AND PRODUCTION

“M.V.” or “The Vineyard”) is. Waiting for a taxi, the chatter continues:

Jared Maciel, McKinley Sanders

Will there be fireworks this year? (Yes!) Will Back Door Donuts have

D I R E C TO R O F S A L E S A N D MARKETING

their famous apple fritters? (Yes!) Will The Ritz have a killer lineup of live music? (Of course!) Will the weather be nice?

Well, we can’t answer that last question. But the fifth annual Martha’s Vineyard Island Guide has the inside scoop on all the rest – including the occasional translation of Island lingo.

Skip Finley, sales@mvgazette.com

S A L E S M A N AG E R Frederica Carpenter

A DV E R T I S I N G S A L E S

Speaking of lingo, here’s something you’ll need to know before you

Carrie Blair, Garrett Burt, Amy Kurth

get in that taxi. The driver will ask, “Are you going up-Island or down-

M A R K E T I N G M A N AG E R

Island?” If you’re staying in Edgartown, Oak Bluffs (“O.B.” for short

Alessandra Hagerty

but never Oaks Bluff ), or Vineyard Haven (sometimes called Tisbury and most often “V.H.”), you’ll want to answer “Down-Island.”

If you’re visiting friends in West Tisbury, Chilmark, or Aquinnah, the correct answer is “Up-Island.” Score extra points if you know

a p u b l i c at i o n o f

which neighborhood you’re heading for, say West Chop in V.H. or the

Martha’s Vineyard

Camp Ground in O.B. (The Camp Ground being the charming collec-

m ag a z i n e

tion of gingerbread cottages surrounding the iconic Tabernacle.)

Don’t worry, the first half of the Island Guide is your town primer, so you’ll know all the answers. You’ll impress your friends when you know where to eat (from food trucks to al fresco dining), what to do

E D I TO R - I N - C H I E F

(art strolls, clothes shopping, historic tours, and more), and how to get

Paul Schneider

there. Anyone for a ride over to Chappy (short for Chappaquiddick)?

Your secret weapon is the second half of the Island Guide. The Outside section is where you’ll discover Vineyard gems, from scenic trails and roadside farm stands to beaches and sporting activities perfect for everyone. You’ll learn about the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah), get a preview of the season’s most exciting events, and find a complete list of hotels and restaurants.

And by the way, whether or not the weather cooperates, a visit to the Vineyard (or the place the Wampanoag call Noepe, or “dry land amid waters”) is pure magic. Enjoy your stay.

S E N I O R E D I TO R Vanessa Czarnecki

A S S O C I AT E E D I TO R Nicole Mercier

A R T D I R E C TO R Alley Moore

B U S I N E S S M A N AG E R Sarah Gifford

C U S TO M E R R E L AT I O N S M A N AG E R Kathy Agin

– Susie Middleton

Martha’s Vineyard Island Guide is published by Martha’s Vineyard Magazine, part of the Vineyard Gazette Media Group, PO Box 66, Edgartown, MA 02539. Copyright © 2022. All rights reserved. For additional copies, please visit vineyardgazettestore.com.

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PUBLISHER Jane Seagrave

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

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Chris Burrell

GETTING HERE

It’s an island! A trip to Martha’s Vineyard requires a little advance planning.

Despite rumors you may have heard, there

travel by car (reserve well in advance for

is no bridge to Martha’s Vineyard. There are

a spot), or you can travel as a passenger,

only two ways to get here: by boat or by plane.

leaving your car at one of its parking

B Y B O AT :

lots. You can also take a Peter Pan Bus

seasonal, high-speed service from New Bedford to Oak Bluffs. Parking available in New Bedford. Passengers only.

(peterpanbus.com) from Boston or New

4 . H YA N N I S , M A S S .

F E R RY F O L L I E S

York or a P&B bus (p-b.com) from Boston

Ferry travel is by far the most popular

or Providence to the Woods Hole ferry

Hy-Line Cruises (hylinecruises.com) offers six departures daily at the height of the season (two during shoulder seasons) on its high-speed ferries traveling between

and least expensive option; it also offers the most frequent service, both during the off-season and the high season.

While all ferries offer passenger service, only the Steamship Authority from Woods Hole offers car service (advance reservations required). You can take a ferry from the following locations:

1 . WO O D S H O L E , M A S S .

terminal. (Reservations required.) Ferries arrive at both Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs terminals during the high season.

Hyannis and Oak Bluffs. Passengers only.

2 . N E W YO R K C I T Y

5 . Q U O N S E T P O I N T, R . I .

Seastreak ferries (seastreak.com) offers

The Martha’s Vineyard Fast Ferry

seasonal, high-speed passenger service

(vineyardfastferry.com) offers seasonal high-

between New York (Highlands, New

speed passenger service between Quonset Point (with parking) and Oak Bluffs.

Jersey, or East Thirty-Fifth Street, New York) and Oak Bluffs. Weekends only.

The Steamship Authority

6 . FA L M O U T H , M A S S .

(steamshipauthority.com) runs the most

3 . N E W B E D F O R D, M A S S .

For day-trippers, the Island Queen

frequent service to the Island. You can

Seastreak ferries (seastreak.com) offer

(islandqueen.com) offers seasonal

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GETTING AROUND ON FOOT: On a day trip to the Island, you can explore each of the three down-Island towns on foot. To see the whole Island or for a longer trip, you’ll want a car. If you don’t bring your own, you will find car rental companies near the ferry terminals in Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs and at the airport. Taxi services, Uber, and Lyft are all available on the Island as well.

BY B U S : The Martha’s Vineyard Transit Authority (vineyardtransit.com) operates the public bus system on the Island. VTA routes travel among the ferry terminals, the Chris Burrell

airport, major landmarks, and all six Island towns. Service in the down-Island towns of

passenger service between Falmouth and Oak Bluffs. The Pied Piper (falmouthedgartownferry.com) sails daily between Falmouth and Edgartown, with overnight parking available in Falmouth.

BY A I R : D E S T I N AT I O N M V Y The only commercial airport on the Vineyard is located in the middle of the Island. Cape Air offers regular service during the off-season; other airlines offer flights in high season (see locations below). Avis, Hertz, and Budget rental cars are available at the airport. Reserve ahead.

1. FROM NANTUCKET Cape Air flies year-round to and from ACK.

2 . F R O M T E T E R B O R O, N . J .

Tradewind Aviation flies a seasonal shuttle to and from Teterboro Airport (TEB).

4 . F R O M N E W YO R K

Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown

Cape Air and Elite Airways offer seasonal

is frequent during the high season, but plan

flights to and from Westchester County Airport (HPN). Tradewind Aviation provides seasonal shuttle service to and from HPN. JetBlue flies in-season from JFK. Delta flies in-season from LaGuardia (LGA).

ahead when taking an up-Island route, which

5 . F R O M M A N S F I E L D, M A S S .

ON A BIKE:

Aero Charter New England provides yearround, on-demand charter service.

6. FROM NEW BEDFORD, MASS. Cape Air flies year-round to and from EWB.

7. F R O M WA S H I N G T O N , D.C .

will involve a transfer and at least an hour for a round trip. Bus passes are available for one, three, seven, or thirty days. Buses have racks for up to two bicycles.

Bike rentals are also available in all three down-Island towns. Down-Island roads are relatively flat, and scenic routes between Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown are only a few miles long. Take note that routes combine bike paths and

American Airlines and JetBlue offer

travel on roads where cyclists should obey

seasonal service from Ronald Reagan National Airport (DCA).

all traffic laws. Biking is also a great way to explore Chappaquiddick.

8. FROM BOSTON

path for a fun ride without traffic. Rides

Cape Air flies year-round from Logan airport (BOS). JetBlue flies in-season.

through the beautiful towns of West

The state forest has a ten-mile bike

Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah are longer and more strenuous. Off-road

9. FROM PHILADELPHIA

bikers will love tackling the network of

3 . F R O M H YA N N I S , M A S S .

American Airlines flies seasonally from

hilly trails all over the Island. For more

Cape Air flies seasonally to and from (HYA).

Philadelphia International Airport (PHL).

about bike rentals, see page 98.

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A B R I E F H I S T O R Y O F PA R A D I S E The land that would eventually become the Island of Martha’s Vineyard was created 12,000 to 18,000 years ago by the mile-high ice mountains of the last great Ice Age. The hills of the Island’s North Shore, in fact, mark the southernmost boundary of that advancing ice. With so much of the planet’s water piled up as ice, the sea level was hundreds of feet lower than it is today, and the coastline lay far to the south. But as the climate slowly warmed and the ice retreated northward, the ocean began to rise. Around 6,000 years ago,

the sea filled in the lowlands between today’s Vineyard and the mainland, creating the Island that we know today. During those same millennia, Neolithic hunters moved throughout the region; the oldest human artifacts in the Martha’s Vineyard Museum date back 9,000 years. By the 1600s, when colonizers from England began to appear, the Island population had established a rich Native American culture that survives to this day within the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah).

Leventhal Map Center

9 , 000 Y E A R S A G O

1642

1671

N AT I V E A M E R I C A N S S E T T L E O N N O E P E ( “ D RY L A N D A M I D WAT E R S ” )

F I R S T O F F I C I A L LY S A N CTIONED ENGLISH COLON I S T S M O V E T O I S L A N D.

THE TOWNS OF EDGARTOWN A N D T I S B U RY A R E I N C O R P O R AT E D.

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ISLAND GUIDE 2022

Curtesy of Chris Baer

Courtesy of Martha's Vineyard Museum

1765

1798

1835

FIRST OCEANGOING W H A L I N G V OYA G E O U T O F EDGARTOWN SETS SAIL.

MAIN STREET IN HOLMES H O L E , N O W V I N E YA R D H AV E N , I S L A I D O U T.

FIRST RELIGIOUS CAMP M E E T I N G I S H E L D I N W H AT WILL BECOME OAK BLUFFS.

Courtesy of Martha's Vineyard Museum

1846

1 8 74

1900

V I N E YA R D G A Z E T T E F O U N D E D A N D R E G U L A R F E R RY SERVICE BEGINS.

U LY S S E S S . G R A N T B E COMES FIRST SITTING PRESI D E N T T O V I S I T T H E I S L A N D.

FIRST AUTOMOBILE COMES T O T H E I S L A N D.

Tim Johnson

Steve Myrick

1938

2015

2016

T H E G R E AT N E W E N G L A N D H U R R I C A N E D E S T R OY S MENEMSHA.

T H E 4 0 0 -T O N G AY H E A D LIGHT IS MOVED 129 FEET BACK DUE TO EROSION.

SMITHSONIAN RECOGNIZES AFRICAN AMERICAN LEGACY IN OAK BLUFFS

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Tim Johnson

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ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN As islands go, Martha’s Vineyard is a big one: ninety-six square miles, in fact. Big enough to have six towns, each with its own personality. While the town centers are only a few miles from one another, the history, architecture, economics, and geography have fostered a unique character for each.

The three “down-Island” (or easternmost) towns – Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, and Vineyard Haven – are the most populated. With their protected natural harbors, Vineyard Haven and Edgartown became home to the Island’s

nineteenth century whaling and coastal schooner fleets, while Oak Bluffs was the town where the summer tourist economy got its start.

The smaller “up-Island” towns of West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah remain far more rural and tied to the Island’s farming and fishing history. Aquinnah is also home to the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah), descendants of the Island’s original inhabitants, and to the most stunning natural phenomenon on the Island – the Gay Head Cliffs.

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UP-ISLAND With rolling hills and winding roads, old stone walls and animals grazing in open pastures, ocean views and a working fishing village, the Vineyard’s three “up-Island” towns offer a picturesque step back in time.

AQUINNAH

CHILMARK

WEST TISBURY

Aquinnah’s colorful

A scenic Chilmark

Hit the weekly

Gay Head Cliffs are

drive includes views

outdoor markets –

one of the most stun-

of the Atlantic, old

farmers, artisans, and

ning natural phenom-

stone walls, and

antiques – in the rural

enon on the Island.

sheep-filled pastures.

town of West Tisbury.

LAKE TASHMOO

WEST TISBURY

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I SI L NN D DG G UU I DI D E E2 0 222 SA LA 20

IN TOWN

Three up, three down

DOWN-ISLAND The Vineyard’s three most populated towns – each with its own personality, history, and architecture – are all located on the eastern end of the

West Chop

LA GO

ON

PO

ND

Island, which Vineyarders call “down-Island.”

V I N E YA R D H AV E N

OAK BLUFFS

EDGARTOWN

Shop Main Street,

A quintessential

With its historic

rent a kayak, catch a

seaside vacation town

homes and lively

film, find sea glass –

with a rich history,

shopping district, the

all in the harbor town

Oak Bluffs is fun for

village of Edgartown

of Vineyard Haven.

all ages.

is made for strolling.

Atlan t

ic Dr.

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EDGARTOWN Stroll the historic village, then head for the beach

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The seaport village of Edgartown is made for strolling. The whole downtown area is a designated historic district, with reminders everywhere of Edgartown’s prominence as both a nineteenth-century whaling port and a seventeenth -century English settlement (the first on the Island). Stately captains’ houses and landmarks like the Old Whaling Church mix with shops, art galleries, restaurants, and parks. Don’t miss the Edgartown Lighthouse. From downtown, a short ferry ride takes you to the beautiful island of Chappaquiddick, or a short drive takes you to South Beach – a pristine stretch of sandy shore featuring Atlantic Ocean waves.

Fast Facts P O P U L AT I O N

5,211 AREA, SQ. MI.

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ZIP CODE

02539 NO. OF PONDS

David Welch

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A D AY A N D A N I G H T I N E D G A R T O W N Start your walking tour of picturesque Edgartown towards the upper end of

Main Street. Take a peek inside 1 the Old Whaling Church, then pick up a

Turn left on Davis Lane and walk to South Water Street to see the famous

3 Giant Pagoda Tree. From South

Pe as e's

St .

St .

N. Su m m er

Ch urc hS t.

11

7 5

S. W ate rS t.

Charlotte Inn.

3 4

St. ck Do

9

.

St

6

Ch ap pa qu id d

.

Rd ick

office. Across the street is the beautiful

Sc ho ol

houses the Vineyard Gazette newspaper

2

8

er at W N.

S. Su m m er St .

pass 2 the historic 1760 building that

Co ok eS t.

.

St

Continue to the end of the block and you’ll

Da vis Ln .

Ma in St.

w he ay M

muffin or maybe a fried chicken sandwich.

1

10 9

se or M

Market & Takeaway for a lemon-blueberry

Pe nt Ln .

Ln .

.

St

If you need to refuel, pop in Rosewater

Si m ps on r te in W

At the Lululemon store on the corner, turn right on to South Summer Street.

Po int Wa y So uth

Main Street.

t. rS lle Fu

.

St

e's as Pe

behind the courthouse), and stroll down

rth No

e ag tt Co

latte at Espresso Love (off Church Street,

ay tW in Po

Water, hop back on Main Street by taking a right. Head down to the waterfront.

(Take note, you’ll have missed a block of shops on Main Street between Summer and Water streets. Put those on your list for visiting later.)

Down on 4 Dock Street you’ll defi-

nitely want to get an ice cream cone from either the Ice Cream & Candy Bazaar or the Scoop Shack and check out the boats in the harbor.(If it’s early, the classic Dock Street Coffee Shop will still be open.)

Carry your cone down to 5 Memorial Wharf (due to reopen on Memorial Day after work to raise the pier 18 inches). Get a glimpse of the On Time ferries going back and forth to 6 Chappaquiddick.

Stop in the 7 Old Sculpin Gallery across from the wharf on your way up to 8 North Water Street, where a cluster of art galleries (page 31), restaurants,

and boutique hotels welcomes you.

Check out 9 The Carnegie, a restored historic property owned by the Vineyard Preservation Trust. The Carnegie features a visitor center, a gift shop, and a permanent exhibit called Living Landmarks. It is also the starting point for historical tours of Edgartown.

Continue strolling along North Water past all the former whaling captains’ homes with their white-painted clapboards, dark green shutters, and white 10 cap-rail fences. At the far end, the 9

Harbor View Hotel will come into view.

Stop for a rest on the benches across the street. Watch the sailboats in the harbor, then follow the sandy path down

11 Edgartown Lighthouse. When to the 9

open (page 104), climb to the top and get

Mark Alan Lovewell

The Carnegie on North Water Street is the starting point for guided tours of Edgartown.

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ISLAND GUIDE 2022

a gull’s-eye view of the harbor.

Head back up to the Harbor View and have a drink on the front porch or an early dinner at restaurant Bettini. Or hop back into the village for other fine dinner options (see “Date Night,” page 31).

IN TOWN

Stay | Edgartown

S TAY I N S T Y L E

Joshua Robinson-White

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY LODGING; BEST HOTEL, GENERAL EXCELLENCE

Harbor View Hotel The 117-room Harbor View Hotel, with its classic view of the Edgartown Lighthouse and harbor, is a perennial Best of the Vineyard award-winner.

Extensively renovated in 2020, the 130-year-old hotel offers on-site dining in its Bettini restaurant and Bettini Clubhouse bar. The hotel is popular with families and couples alike.

Randi Baird

The Dunes at the Winnetu Oceanside Resort is the place for an after-swim cocktail.

GO BOUTIQUE OR GO BIG Edgartown offers a wide selection of

The Hob Knob Luxury Boutique

stylish places to stay, from boutique

Hotel & Spa emphasizes personal

inns to multi-room hotels, including the

service and comfort in an elegant

award-winning Harbor View Hotel and

atmosphere, and the former Clarion

The Charlotte Inn (at left) in town.

Inn on Upper Main Street reopened as

Out in Katama on South Beach, the

the boutique Edgar Hotel in 2019 as

expansive Winnetu Oceanside Resort

well.

(pictured above) is a family-friendly

Harborside Inn on South Water Street,

destination hotel with fine dining and

which upgraded its event spaces and

loads of activities and amenities, as well

suites two years ago, offers a variety of

as a water taxi and shuttles to take guests

accommodations in several buildings.

The Charlotte Inn

back and forth to town.

This year the Kelley House in the heart of

Luxurious comfort continues to be a

Lark Hotels now has four charming

priority at The Charlotte Inn, the Relais

boutique properties in its Edgartown

at the condo-style rentals (studios,

& Chateaux property on South Summer

Collection: The Sydney on North Water

one-, and two-bedroom apartments) at

Street. Guests at the inn are transported

Street, The Christopher on South Water

Edgartown Commons.

to a bygone era, complete with Edward-

Street, The Richard on Main Street, and

ian furnishings and impeccably mani-

the recently renovated Edgartown Inn on

websites of all Edgartown hotels, see

cured gardens.

North Water Street.

page 111.

Vineyard Colors

M O S T R O M A N T I C G E TAWAY

Back in the village of Edgartown,

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

The ninety-room waterfront

Edgartown will be closed for renovations.

Need a budget option? Take a look

For addresses, phone numbers, and

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IN TOWN

Shop | Edgartown

SHOP:

THE LOOK

Ray Ewing

The classic preppy look never goes out of style in Edgartown.

E D G A R T O W N in summertime has two popular fashion templates: preppy (boat shoes, red shorts, polo or button-down shirts for the men; white jeans and print tunics or shifts for the women) and surfy (sneakers, hoodies,

B R E A K FA S T, L U N C H & TA K E O U T I F YO U ’ R E L O O K I N G for a freshly

breakfast sandwiches, salads, and more.

made croissant and a cup of pour-over

Edgartown Diner is a popular spot

coffee – and a chance to sit outside in the

too. Business breakfast? Bettini at the

shade, you probably want a late break-

Harbor View.

fast at Behind the Bookstore or an early

Thinking something more like

one at Café Atria (below). If you’d rather

burgers and beers? Try Rockfish or

grab a plate of eggs and home fries (and a

Town Bar & Grill.

bit of local gossip), hit Dock Street Cof-

Need takeout for tonight’s picnic or impromptu gathering at home? Stop

fee Shop – the earlier the better.

On the way out to South Beach, stop

in to or preorder from Black Sheep

and get takeout snacks, sandwiches,

Mercantile or The Fish House, and pick

drinks, picnic supplies, and more from

up libations at MV Wine & Spirits. All

Katama General Store. Or stay and eat

three are located near the entrance to

under an umbrella on the patio.

the airport at the center of the Island.

Meeting friends in town for a late

Back in town on Upper Main Street,

breakfast or early lunch? Espresso

Edgartown Meat & Fish Market and

Love and Rosewater Market &

Soigne (both carry wine) can set you up

Takeaway are both great spots for coffee,

too. (Listings on page 111.)

and beanie caps for everyone, plus lacy sundresses and long skirts for women).

Get your prep on at Vineyard Vines, Lilly Pulitzer, J. McLaughlin, and Katydid.

Pop-Up Bagels and Pastries – No Pop-Tarts!

Hit the Boneyard for surf styles.

Or check out Faherty for surf-inspired sustainable clothing and blankets.

Backwater Trading has all your outdoor clothing and gear. Outfit the little ones at Rosebud Kids. Shop KIN for Island-designed fashion. Show your Island love with locally crafted jewelry

Ray Ewing

(including wampum) from Claudia Jewelry or Vineyard-themed charms,

Ray Ewing

FA N T Z Y E B AG E L S

C A F É AT R I A

Elana Carlson (middle), along with Gina

Last summer’s addition of a morning cafe

Citarella (left) and Nina Krane (right) are

to Atria restaurant (137 Main Street) was

Fantzye Bagels (14 A Street). Fantzye’s

a hit, thanks to baker Georgia Macon’s

naturally fermented bagels also pop up at

of Rainy Day gift store on N. Water

croissants, biscuits, teacakes, honey

State Road restaurant in West Tisbury.

cake, and more. They sold out fast! Be

Street.

Follow @fantzyebagels to be in the know.

sure to follow @atriamv to stay posted.

bracelets, pendants, and earrings from CB Stark.

For accessories and more, be sure to check out the new Edgartown outpost

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ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Dine | Edgartown

D AT E N I G H T

9

Love good food? Edgartown’s got your reservation.

TO TRY

Anchoring Edgartown’s fine dining scene are a handful of established restaurants that aren’t just tossing around the expression “locally inspired.” Drawing on daily offerings from Island farms and fishermen, these are the places (many chef-owned) to go for great food and drinks, as well as excellent service.

A refined take on a deconstructed clambake is on the menu at The Dunes.

DÉTENTE

L’ É T O I L E

Tucked away in Nevin Square, Kevin and

Chef-owner Michael Brisson has run his

Suzanna Crowell’s jewel has an uber-

successful French-inspired fine dining

fresh Island-sourced menu and a diverse

restaurant for more than two decades.

wine list. Takeout and patio seating

A popular bar/dining area was added in

available. (15 Winter Street)

2019. (22 North Water Street)

ALCHEMY With a buzzing downtown vibe and

T H E C OV I N G T O N & THE PORT HUNTER

award-winning cocktails, Alchemy

Sidewalk seating enhances the bistro vibe

features globally-inspired bistro cooking

of The Covington, where Island ingre-

by chef Christopher Stam both indoors

dients are celebrated in flavorful small

and out. (71 Main Street)

plates. At The Port Hunter across the

AT R I A Christian and Greer Thornton’s Island-

Jeanna Shepard

street, enjoy the catch of the day or oysters inside or out. (52 and 55 Main Street)

grown version of global comfort food

THE DUNES

(and an extensive wine list) earn both the

Seafood is the star at the Winnetu

restaurant and the pub (for its burger) an

Oceanside Resort's restaurant with a

annual Best of the Vineyard award.

view. Try the mocktails and specialty

(137 Main Street)

cocktails. (31 Dunes Road) W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

Jeanna Shepard

19 IS THE MAGIC NUMBER At 19 Church Street, you can now choose surf or turf ­– walk through the doors of the new 19 Prime Cast Iron Steakhouse or stop and hang out on the patio of 19 Raw Oyster Bar, both owned and run by chef Joe Monteiro and Emily Monteiro. Don’t miss the lobster roll – or the porterhouse.

(19 Church Street) Find all restaurant listings on page 112.

29

IN TOWN

Explore | Edgartown

D E S T I N AT I O N :

CHAPPY

C H A P PAQ U I D D I C K may be part of the town of Edgartown, but it feels like it’s a world away. All you have to do is hop on one of the On Time ferries – they’re always on time because they simply load up and go – and travel 527 feet across Edgartown Harbor to find tranquility. On Chappy, there are no restaurants, boutiques, or bars.

Instead, you’ll find breathtaking scenery, from ocean beaches to peaceful ponds, and abundant wildlife. There are almost 1,000 acres of preserved land on Chappy.

Getting on Chappy with a car can require a long wait at busy times. A better bet is to walk your bike onto the ferry – the island is small and uncrowded enough that you can see much of it by bicycle. Pedaling

Mark Alan Lovewell

up Chappaquiddick Road from the ferry landing, you’ll have expansive views of the

The Japanese-style garden Mytoi is less

ture trail leads to the Cape Pogue Wildlife

outer harbor as you pass the private Chap-

than a half mile up the unpaved Dike Road

Refuge and Poucha Pond. Continue past

paquiddick Beach Club and head toward

from Chappaquiddick Road. Managed

Mytoi on the road and you’ll reach the new

Slip Away Farm, which sells Chappy-grown

by the Trustees of Reservations, Mytoi is

Dike Bridge, which replaced the old bridge

produce at a farm stand that was once the

a serene little world of footpaths, groves,

that was picked apart by souvenir hunters

local school.

and rock gardens. Across the road, a na-

following the fatal crash there in 1969.

Cross it, and you’re on the Vineyard’s easternmost beach, known as East Beach and Leland Beach, which connects to Wasque Beach further south and Cape Pogue Wildlife Refuge (admission required), including Cape Pogue Lighthouse, to the north.

Mark Alan Lovewell

30

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

Tim Johnson

ART GALLERY STROLL

Eight fine art galleries are a ten-minute walk apart.

Ray Ewing

Winter Street Gallery showcases the art of upand-coming contemporary visual artists, like this wool on canvas work by Jim Lambie.

O L D S C U L P I N G A L L E RY

N O R T H WAT E R S T. G A L L E RY

Inside a historic boatbuilder’s shop by

Contemporary and traditional fine art, as

the Chappy Ferry, the Old Sculpin holds

well as plenty of maritime and whimsical

group and solo shows by Vineyard artists.

elements, make this a fun spot to browse.

T H E C H R I S T I N A G A L L E RY

PENUMBRA

Traditional art is the specialty at this

Penumbra Vintage Photographs spe-

spacious gallery that also offers antique

cializes in vintage prints from the late

maps and vintage nautical charts.

nineteenth and early twentieth century.

E I S E N H A U E R G A L L E RY

U N TA M E A B L E

Representing more than forty

Photographer Lucy Dahl’s art gallery on

contemporary artists, this gallery carries

Dock Street offers jewelry, clothing, and

fine art, jewelry, paintings, and sculpture.

gifts in addition to her photographs.

E D G A R T O W N A R T G A L L E RY

W I N T E R S T R E E T G A L L E RY

Tucked inside the elegant Charlotte

New to the Edgartown art scene in 2020,

Inn, this gallery has more than 200 oils,

Winter Street showcases the work of upand-coming contemporary visual artists.

pastels, and watercolors.

Sandi Blanda’s “Black Jack” from The Christina Gallery

Sailor’s Valentine

ordered high res 2/15

The Christina Gallery has a collection of artist Sandi Blanda’s captivating sailor’s valentines, sea shell mosaics in octagonal cherry or mahogany cases, inspired by the Mark Alan Lovewell

Eisenhauer Gallery on North Water Street features works from more than forty artists, including Tracy Harris.

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

art form which originated in the 1800s in the West Indies.

31

32

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Local Knowledge | Edgartown

DON'T MISS:

FELIX NECK WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

Tim Johnson

A WA L K T H R O U G H F E L I X N E C K is a serene, almost spiritual experience.

Trails wind gently around the edge of Sengekontacket Pond, beneath towering pines, and across the grassy fields of what

Tim Johnson

was once Wampanoag land. The Audubon property takes its name from original

peaceful walks and bird-watching, but also

peoples’ celebrations. The Owl Cam is

owner Felix Kuttashamaquat. Today the

for kids’ programs, summer camp, guided

always on for watching the resident barn

wildlife sanctuary is open not only for

kayak tours for adults, and Indigenous

owls. (100 Felix Neck Drive)

M O RE

10 1

THINGS TO DO 2

3

WA L K

RIDE

CRUISE

SHOP

CHECK OUT

Explore Lighthouse Beach as the sun rises over Chappy.

Take a harbor tour aboard the Oldport launch.

Book a sunset tour of Edgartown Harbor with Catboat Charters.

Fill your basket with veggies and flowers at Morning Glory Farm farm stand.

Find movies, games, crafts, and more at the Edgartown Public Library.

6

7

8

9

10

4

5

OGLE

STROLL

EXPLORE

VIEW

TOUR

Watch the sun set from South Beach.

Tour the legacy gardens at the historic Thomas Cooke House.

Wander through meadows and salt marsh in the Caroline Tuthill Preserve.

Grab a spot on the sidewalk for the annual Fourth of July parade.

Take an oversand ride and tour Cape Pogue Lighthouse.

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

33

34

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

35

OAK BLUFFS The beach, the boardwalk, the classic seaside charm

36

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

If you’re looking for a laid-back vibe, charming architecture, family friendly swimming beaches, and a bustling downtown, Oak Bluffs is your place. One of the two ports served by the Steamship Authority, Oak Bluffs is a quintessential seaside resort town with a very special history. As a longtime summer destination for African Americans and a refuge during segregation days, Oak Bluffs is now featured in a permanent exhibit on the Power of Place in the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of African American History in Washington, D.C. Once known as Cottage City, Oak Bluffs is also home to a collection of colorful gingerbread cottages – and to the oldest continuously operating platform carousel in America.

Fast Facts P O P U L AT I O N

5,898 AREA, SQ. MI.

7.37 ZIP CODE

02557 T O W N PA R K S

Jeanna Shepard

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

25

37

A D AY A N D A N I G H T I N O A K B L U F F S Spending a day in Oak Bluffs should start with the sun. Most town beaches face

7

east and are prime locations for watching the sunrise. At the 1 Inkwell, a group

1

called the Polar Bears begins the day East Ch

with a swim and some aqua-aerobics.

q Pas

op D

Newcomers welcome! From the edge

e

beautiful 2 Ocean Park to 3 Circuit

N Lake

bec A ve. et

m

tA ve .

os

et

Av e.

Ave.

Bu

Ave .

Sa

ns

keag

nt y ke's Co u Du

to n

tA ve .

e.

Av

Clin

ga

e.

Av

e.

Av

k

e ov Gr

n

ct

r Pa

r ra

tta

the 6 Flying Horses Carousel, the oldest

Vi

n

uo

su

While you’re downtown, don’t miss

ia or

Na

Pe q

am W

10

hA ve .

Circl al

4

2

12 a ce

stop and marvel at the 5 Tabernacle and

Fa it

. ve rA tle

e

a free way to enjoy the sights. Be sure to

y Park Trinit

3

Taberna cle Ave.

.

Ave ity Trin

place, but walking the tranquil streets is

5

11

O

interested in the fascinating history of the

Av e.

Rur

Co mm . Ave.

Av e.

available and worth scheduling if you’re

ke t

Park

ve. wA Vie

Historic Landmark. Guided tours are

uc

nt y

9

ve. ffs A

Sea

old Methodist Camp Ground, a National

Pa wt

Circu

Co u

Mocha Mott’s and stroll through the 4

Ave.

Blu

Na u m

ve.

Kenn e

kA

below). Grab a coffee from the original

6

e.

Central Av

Y

or

Oa k

it Av e.

ew

Avenue, the main street of Oak Bluffs (see

visit the Cottage Museum (when open).

8

.

Ave

ue

r iv

of the Inkwell, it’s an easy walk through

continuously operating platform carousel in America. A ride on the antique horses while reaching for rings is a kick for both

To explore beyond downtown, rent a

waves) or exploring 9 Sengekontacket

kids and kids at heart. Hop right across

bicycle (and helmet!). Start by pedaling to

Pond across the street, where you can

the street for lunch at Giordano’s – eat in

the 7 East Chop Lighthouse and then

rent a paddleboard or kayak. The pond

or take out – for pizza, fried clams, and

double back along the shared-use path by

more. Head up Circuit Avenue to shop for

scenic Hart Haven to 8 State Beach for

Island souvenirs.

swimming in Nantucket Sound (no big

is also the setting for the attack on the sailing instructor in the movie Jaws. (If you want to ratchet up the adrenaline, personal watercraft rentals are available on Oak Bluffs Harbor.)

As evening approaches, explore the

10 Arts District, a collection of galleries 0

SHOPPING THE CIRCUIT

along Dukes County Avenue. It’s a

F R O M M U R D I C K ’ S F U D G E at one end of the street to Vineyard Vines at the other, Circuit Avenue has a little bit of everything you need for clothing and sustenance on a hot summer day. T-shirts, outdoor gear, souvenirs, toys, burgers, fried seafood, wine and beer ­– plus lots of ice cream – are yours. Don’t miss Best of the Vineyard winner Basics (best children's Ray Ewing

38

short walk back to the center of town 11 Kennebec Avenue for great and 0

dinner options. After eating, explore the nightlife on Circuit Avenue. Finish the

12 Back Door Donuts, where night with 0

the waiting line behind Post Office Square is the place to be. (The line opens at 7 p.m. every night but Tuesday and goes through midnight on weeknights and 1 a.m.

Friday through Sunday.) Don’t worry,

clothing) and, of course, The Ritz, winner for

the warm doughnuts and famous apple

best live music venue.

fritters are worth it.

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Stay | Oak Bluffs

G O B I G O R S TAY S M A L L

KID STUFF

Ivy Ashe

B E S T FA M I LY AC T I V I T Y

For 140 years children and adults alike have found joy riding the Flying Horses Carousel, the oldest continuously operating platform carousel in America.

From the Wurlitzer band organ’s iconic tunes to the competition to catch the brass ring, it’s good old-fashioned fun.

(Check vineyardtrust.org for seasonal opening and hours.)

Christine Sargologos

Enjoy musicians, speakers, and readings during the Sundowner Porch Series at the Narragansett House in the heart of town.

YO U ’ V E G O T great options for bunking in Oak Bluffs, starting with the biggest hotel in town: Summercamp, the renovated former Wesley Hotel on the edge of the Camp Ground and a stone’s throw from the waterfront. Summercamp, a property of Lark Hotels, offers a variety of brightly decorated rooms with a chic feel, a great front porch for viewing the action, a game room, and a canteen. You can’t go wrong with Summercamp if you want to be in the thick of it, but there are many charming smaller

Jeanna Shepard

alternatives in Oak Bluffs.

The Narragansett House, a historic

RYA N A M U S E M E N T S

Victorian inn with quintessential

No Vineyard kid has ever said, “Don’t

gingerbread charm, is Black-owned

take me to the arcade.” In other words,

and offers thirteen unique rooms at a

rainy days and gray afternoons turn out

range of prices. The owners now have

a whole lot better when a trip to Ryan

two other appealing properties: The

Amusements Game Room on Circuit

charming seaside Inkwell Beach House,

Avenue is in the plans. Prizes big and

and the recently refurbished Dunmere

small keep everyone happy; just be sure

By the Sea, which features three large

to bring pockets of real cash.

suites available by the week.

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

Mark Alan Lovewell

Other small inns and hotels in town include Titticut Follies, the Madison Inn, Martha’s Vineyard Surfside Hotel, the Pequot Hotel, the Oak Bluffs Inn, the Morgan Hotel, and Tivoli Inn. The Island Inn is a nice option just a bit out of town in beautiful Hart Haven. The historic Shearer Cottage is currently being renovated and will reopen in the summer of 2023.

For more information and complete hotel listings, turn to page 111.

39

IN TOWN

Dine | Oak Bluffs

Elizabeth Cecil

Giordano's (aka Gio's) is a perennial Best of the Vineyard winner for both pizza and fried clams.

C R AV I N G S In season (that would be May to October), O.B. has a little something for everyone – salty or sweet, fried or fresh. In fact the town is so popular for quick bites that it regularly scoops up the most Best of the Vineyard awards for food and drink. Can’t make up your mind where to go?

Stop in at Tony’s Market for groceries, beer, and wine. Or pop into Reliable Market for essentials and a great selection of meat.

40

CHOWDER

WINGS

Martha’s Vineyard Chowder Company

Coop de Ville

9 Oak Bluffs Avenue

12 Circuit Avenue Extension

BOV21: Best Chowder

BOV21: Best Wings

SUSHI

DOUGHNUTS

Lookout Tavern

Back Door Donuts

8 Seaview Avenue Extension

1-11 Kennebec Avenue

BOV21: Best Sushi, Best Bar/Pub

BOV21: Best Bakery

THAI TO-GO

FUDGE

Bangkok Cuisine

Murdick’s Fudge

67 Circuit Avenue

5 Circuit Avenue

BOV21: Best Takeout

BOV21: Best Candy/Chocolate

ICE CREAM

BEER + BURGERS

Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium

Offshore Ale Co.

20A Circuit Avenue

30 Kennebec Avenue

BOV21: Best Ice Cream Shop

BOV21: Best Year-Round Restaurant

SANDWICHES

GREENS

Nomans

MV Salads

15 Island Inn Road

55 Circuit Avenue

BOV21: Best Outdoor Dining

BOV21: Best Vegetarian Meal

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Dine | Edgartown

2

H O T S E AT S

A table on the patio or a bite at the bar? Either way, O.B.’s got it.

TO TRY

Jeanna Shepard

The Sweet Life Café is your date-night destination in Oak Bluffs.

THE SWEET LIFE CAFÉ

R E D C AT K I T C H E N

At Hal and Erin Ryerson’s award-winning

The flagship of Chef Ben DeForest’s three

fine dining restaurant (63 Circuit Avenue),

restaurants in Oak Bluffs, the Red Cat

you’ll enjoy house-made pasta dishes, fresh

Kitchen (14 Kennebec Avenue) combines

fish, local vegetables, and a great wine list.

authentic, deeply flavored food with a hip,

The Sweet Life Café menu is uber-seasonal,

relaxed vibe in a cozy spot. Be sure to have

taking advantage of the best of the Vine-

the chef's Island Fresca (a tomato and corn

yard, and the atmosphere is charming. On a

soup) and his signature roasted Brussels

nice evening, ask to sit outside on the patio

sprouts. The farm-and-sea-to-table menu

under twinkling lights.

changes daily.

Jeanna Shepard

Chef Ben DeForest's Cardboard Box boasts a big bar, a varied menu, and live music.

E AT AT T H E B A R C A R D B OA R D B OX Grab a bite at the bar, sit down to eat, or come in for late night music at this casual-funky spot. (6 Circuit Avenue)

OYS T E R B A R 0 2 5 5 7 Open seasonally for food and cocktails,

Take a Bite Out of This The art of the sandwich is alive and well at TigerHawk Sandwich Co., which opened last summer at 12B Circuit Avenue. On the menu: Banh Mi, three kinds of fried chicken sandwiches, Porchetta My Heart, Jeanna Shepard

A Banh Mi from TigerHawk hits the spot.

the Holy Beet, the Italian, and the K-Pop Star with braised short ribs.

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

the Oyster Bar is upstairs from the Cardboard Box. (6 Circuit Avenue)

O F F S H O R E A L E C O. The year-round brewpub has great family food and a welcoming bar scene.

(30 Kennebec Avenue) Find all restaurant listings on page 112.

41

IN TOWN

Explore | Oak Bluffs

D E S T I N AT I O N :

CAMP GROUND

Jeanna Shepard

I T B E G A N I N 1 8 3 5 with an idea: a Methodist camp meeting revival in a grove of shady oaks by the sea. Year after year it went on, until tents and a small preacher’s stand evolved into circles of colorful Carpenter Gothic cottages and a majestic, open, wrought-iron tabernacle.

Formally known as the Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting Association,

window boxes and small, well-tended gardens.

There are walking tours, a cottage museum, a children’s festival, and a summer music series. Every Wednesday night (in a normal year!) there are also old-fashioned community sings in the Tabernacle, and special concerts are held in this magnifi-

Tim Johnson

cent structure as well.

the Camp Ground is a little wonderland

The highlight of the summer is usually

tucked away from the downtown bustle.

a Wednesday night in August when thou-

Take a Tour

Informally known as gingerbread cottages,

sands of painted paper lanterns are hung

To visit the Cottage Museum or take a

the fanciful homes are all porches, quirky

from the cottage porch eaves and lit as one

scheduled tour of the Camp Ground, check

scrollwork, cathedral arches, and tiny

in the unforgettable Grand Illumination;

the Martha's Vineyard Camp Meeting

second story balconies. Grandpas nap on

the night glows in a whirl of color; check

Association's website (mvcma.org) for an

porch rockers next to cheerfully planted

eventsmv.com for 2022 plans.

updated 2022 schedule.

42

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Art & Entertainment | Oak Bluffs

Ray Ewing

Mark Alan Lovewell

Valerie Francis is the owner of Knowhere Gallery on Dukes County Avenue.

GALLERY GRAZING

In O.B., it’s an easy stroll from one gallery to the next.

Featherstone's Art Barn is the largest gallery space on the Island.

F E AT H E R S T O N E CENTER FOR THE ARTS From a group of like-minded artists moving from spot to spot to a six-acre campus open daily to all, Featherstone Center for the Arts has grown in the last twenty-six years to be the nexus of art

MARIPOSA MUSEUM

C O U S E N R O S E G A L L E RY

Open seasonally on Circuit Avenue, the

This longtime seasonal Circuit Avenue

museum explores American history

gallery shows contemporary paintings,

through a multicultural lens.

ceramics, and jewelry.

opened its 6,200-square-foot Art Barn,

A L I S O N S H AW G A L L E RY

K N O W H E R E G A L L E RY

lery as well as teaching classrooms. With

Shop for recent and classic work at the

Opened in 2019 by Val Francis, the gal-

the addition of a new pottery studio and

well-known Vineyard photographer’s

lery on Dukes County Avenue encourages

gallery in the Oak Bluffs Arts District.

patrons to explore the world through art.

able to expand classes for both kids

C R O S S R OA D S G A L L E RY

ARTS DISTRICT STROLL

series of themed exhibits every year.

Inspirational Island photography is the

Check eventsmv.com for dates and times

The campus and gift shop are usually

theme at Michael Blanchard’s Dukes

for this festive monthly outdoor art

open daily; for hours and protocol, visit

County Avenue gallery.

experience.

featherstoneart.org.

life on the Vineyard. In 2017, with the help of generous donations, the center which includes the Island’s largest gal-

jewelry studio, Featherstone has been and adults and hold a much anticipated

PA R K- A N D - V I E W One of the best things to emerge from

which includes live entertainment by

Covid restrictions was a drive-in movie

both Island and visiting musicians and ce-

series organized by the Martha’s Vine-

lebrities, generally sells out quickly since

yard Film Festival at the MV Ice Arena.

it is a popular family activity.

Begun in 2020, the partnership will be back for its third year in 2022. The series,

For more information and dates for this year’s movies, visit tmvff.org W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

Larry Glick

43

44

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Local Knowledge | Oak Bluffs

DON’T MISS:

AFRICAN-AMERICAN HERITAGE TRAIL S I T I N G H I S T O RY The AfricanAmerican Heritage Trail of Martha’s Vineyard was

The Shearer Cottage is still in the same family which founded it. Pictured here are some of the family and guests, including a young Adam Clayton Powell Jr. (standing, far left), opera singer Lillian Evanti (top row, fifth from left), and Charles Shearer (standing, third from right) circa 1931.

created in 1998 to highlight the contributions made by people of African descent to the Island. Take a guided tour of all 32 stops (or just some of them) or do a self-guided tour. Each stop is marked with a plaque. No. 10 is The Shearer Cottage (left), which was founded by former enslaved person Charles Shearer and his wife Henrietta, and was the first Island inn to welcome visitors of color. (The inn is currently closed for renovations; it will reopen in 2023.) For more information, mvafricanamericanheritagetrail.org.

M O RE

10 1

THINGS TO DO 2

3

STROLL

GO FISH

GET FIT

S H A R K TA N K

WORSHIP

Ice cream in hand, stroll the boardwalk linking the harbor to the ferry wharf.

Catch the big one or see the sunrise off the public fishing pier.

Buy a day pass to the YMCA and enjoy the pool and dozens of classes.

Catch a Martha’s Vineyard Sharks baseball game at the high school.

Visit Union Chapel for renowned visiting speakers and more on Sunday mornings.

6

7

8

9

10

4

5

FISH ON

GO FOR GOLD

PA D D L E

PA R K P I C N I C

GAME ON

Book a charter on the Skipper, the happiest fishing boat in O.B.

Reserve a bowling lane at The Barn, Bowl & Bistro.

Rent a kayak or paddleboard on Sengekontacket Pond.

Spend the evening on the lawn of Ocean Park with your favorite takeout.

Pick up kites, bubbles, frisbees, Kan Jam, or board games at Lazy Frog.

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

45

PLANNING A VINEYARD WEDDING? Martha’s Vineyard

ISLAND WEDDINGS S U M M E R – FA L L 2 0 2 0

Small celebrations, endless possibilities

Wedding planning in the age of Covid-19

Tabletop inspiration to match your budget

Martha’s Vineyard

ISLAND WEDDINGS WINTER–SPRING 2020

Welcome Parties | Real Wedding Inspiration | Engagement Ideas

I nspiration, Expert Advice, Fresh Ideas YO U R CO M P L E T E G U I D E TO W E D D I N G S O N M A RT H A’S V I N E YA R D Martha’s Vineyard

ISLAND WEDDINGS 46

AVAILABLE: O N N E W S S TA N D S + V I N E YA R D G A Z E T T E S T O R E . C O M

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

47

V I N E YA R D H A V E N Historic Holmes Hole is today’s year-round harbor town

48

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

Chances are your first glimpse of the Island will be Vineyard Haven Harbor, where most of the Steamship Authority ferries arrive. Once called Holmes Hole, the harbor is still a haven for boats large and small, from the schooners Shenandoah and Alabama to the smallest rowing dinghy; it makes for a beautiful sight on arrival. Vineyard Haven (also known by its official name, Tisbury) is what Islanders call “the year-round town,” since many of the shops and businesses on Main Street and State Road stay open all year. From historic William Street to the beautiful drive out to West Chop and the lighthouse, there is plenty to see both on foot and by car in and around Vineyard Haven.

Fast Facts P O P U L AT I O N

4,629 AREA, SQ. MI.

1.6 ZIP CODE

02568 E L E V AT I O N , F E E T

46

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

49

A D AY A N D A N I G H T I N V I N E YA R D H AV E N Tashmoo Ave.

6

Greenwood Ave.

Main Street (see page 52), then head one block west (uphill) to 3 William Street,

VH -E dg

part of the historic district of Vineyard Haven. Many of the houses are Greek

destroyed by a fire in 1883. From William Street, walk down Church Street past the

4Martha’s Vineyard Playhouse, a ninety-

m

e at St

Look St.

Visit 2 shops and galleries up and down

p

r St. Wate

Union St.

8

d Rd. Pon oon g a L

Ca

coffee at 1 Mocha Mott’s on Main Street.

4 27 1 Main St.

.

Spring St

Begin your day in Vineyard Haven with

in town, since much of Main Street was

Church St.

Center St.

Tim Johnson

5

Colonial Ave.

3

Clough Ln.

revival and are among the oldest structures

Way Owen Park

William St.

Franklin St.

Crocker Ave.

St .

.

Rd

Beach Rd.

9

10 9

Rd .

Street to Owen Park Way and walk down to 5 Owen Park. The small town beach

has a great view of the harbor and features

continue on past the lighthouse a bit to the West Chop Overlook for a stunning view of Vineyard Sound before retracing your route

a gazebo, a long grassy hill, and prime crab

into town. Make note of the historic 7 Ca-

catching off the pier. You might find a bit of

pawock Theatre on your way back down

nine-seat professional theater housed

sea glass on the beach too. If you’re up for a

inside a beautifully repurposed 1833

long walk (about two miles each way), con-

meetinghouse. Step inside to view rotat-

tinue north on Main Street to the 6 West

ing art exhibits. Next, turn left on Main

Chop Lighthouse (see page 104). Be sure to

Main Street and head to the 8 Black Dog

Tavern on the harbor or 9 ArtCliff Diner on Beach Road for lunch. After lunch, make 10 Tisyour way down Beach Road to the 5

bury Marketplace to pick up seafood for dinner at The Net Result, to check out the MV Film Center, to take the kids to Tisbury Toy Box, or to make reservations for dinner at Beach Road restaurant.

Peter Simon Tim Johnson

Vineyard Haven Harbor fills up on a busy summer day.

50

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Stay | Vineyard Haven

S TAY I N N T O W N

Elizabeth Cecil

B E S T F LOW E R S

Flower Power Whimsy and charm define Morrice Florist, Emily Coulter’s flower and gift shop at 149 State Road. Shop for gorgeous bouquets, plants, housewares, books, and more – or start planning your wedding flowers.

Max Bossman

The charming bed and breakfast Charles and Charles on Summer Street (above and lower right) offers both rooms and apartments.

W I T H I N WA L K I N G D I S TA N C E of Main Street and downtown Vineyard Haven, two top-notch inns offer personal service and beautiful accommodations.

Right outside of town on Mount Aldworth Road, the Nobnocket Boutique Inn bed and breakfast (below) has seven luxurious suites and a perfect record of Lisa Pyden

five-star reviews on both Facebook and Tripadvisor.

Mariah Duarte

On Summer Street, the bed and

B E S T H A I R S A LO N

breakfast Charles and Charles (above and top) is a charming inn offering both rooms and apartments.

The largest (and only full-service)

Maggie's Salon

hotel in town is the Mansion House,

For twelve of the past thirteen years,

located right on the corner of Main and

Best of the Vineyard voters have

Beach Streets. It has a salon, a health

crowned the expert team at Maggie’s

club with an indoor pool, and the Copper

Salon (31 Beach Road Suite, 104A) the

Wok restaurant. It also has a great view of

best of the best. If you need a cut or color

Vineyard Haven Harbor from its rooftop.

while you’re here, call Maggie’s as soon as you can; appointments fill up fast.

For a complete listing of accommodations, Jeanna Shepard

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

see page 111.

51

IN TOWN

Shop | Vineyard Haven

SHOP:

MAIN STREET

Main Street in Vineyard Haven is lined with shops for all tastes and budgets. If you’re looking for books or gifts, clothing or jewelry, kitchenware or housewares, you’ll find them here.

women’s wear with a European sensibility

Several Main Street stores are peren-

a home store with everything from pillows

and Vineyard practicality. Brickman’s is a long-established Vineyard clothing, footwear, sporting goods, and toy store.

Lennox & Harvey is a modern take on

nial Best of the Vineyard winners (see

to backgammon sets. Just a slight dip off

below), including The Green Room

Main on Union Street, you’ll find painted

(clothing), CB Stark (jewelry), and Rainy

furniture, home goods, and Island art at

Day (gift shop). Also on Main Street is

Coastal Supply Co. The Beach House

the Island’s popular bookstore, Bunch of

carries April Cornell and other designs

Grapes. Be sure to check out the Island

chosen for fresh Island decorating.

author shelves and the charming children’s

Longtime Island jewelry business

section on the second floor.

Claudia Jewelry curates fine jewelry from

With three floors, LeRoux at Home is

Island artisans and the work of noted

the Vineyard’s top destination for kitchen

designers from the U.S. and abroad. And

goods, tableware, small appliances, and accessories for the home.

Stina Sayre Design showcases

Jeanna Ray Shepard Ewing

Check out designer Stina Sayre’s latest at her shop on Main Street.

don’t miss Magnetic North, around the corner on Beach Street, for a beautiful selection of apparel and gifts.

Jeanna Shepard

B E S T C LOT H I N G S TO R E + S H O E S

BEST JEWELER

GREEN ROOM

C B S TA R K

R A I N Y D AY

The store for the quintessential Island

A pioneering Island jeweler, the late CB

If you need a present in a hurry, Rainy

sportster, The Green Room has the

Stark opened her store more than fifty

surfing, hiking, and skating togs you want,

years ago and it’s still the go-to place for

with outerwear and gear from brands such

Martha’s Vineyard charms and pendants

gifts is here in one place. Find linens and

as Patagonia, North Face, and Yeti. They

as well as custom work. A silver bracelet

tableware, children’s clothes, candles,

opened The Shoe Store last year as well.

makes an elegant Vineyard souvenir.

notepaper, tote bags, and more.

71 Main Street and 65 Main Street.

53A Main Street.

66 Main Street.

52

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

BEST GIFT SHOP

Day is the place to go. Everything from quality Island souvenirs to housewarming

IN TOWN

Eat | Vineyard Haven

CAUGHT IN THE NET

Fresh, fried, smoked, or sushi-ed.

Ray Ewing

Kelley DeBettencourt

BEST FISH MARKET + BEST FISH & CHIPS

What’s for dinner? That’s easy to answer

prepared foods such as chowders, scallop

at The Net Result, where you’ll find a

plates, fish cakes, smoked fish, and sea-

huge array of fresh fish and shellfish as

weed salads. Or grab freshly made sushi,

well as house-made seafood sausage, fish

a lobster roll, fish and chips, or more from

stock, stuffies, and more. Don’t want to

the takeout window. Eat outside at the

cook your catch? Check out the variety of

picnic tables if you like.

DINNER AND A DRINK

Get a taste of Brazilian cooking at three spots in Vineyard Haven.

32 Beach Street

liquor stores (head to Oak Bluffs or Ed-

It’s a café and a cakerie in one.

gartown to shop) but several restaurants

Don’t miss: brigadeiros & layer cakes.

have liquor licenses, including fine-dining

V I N E YA R D G R O C E R

destinations like Beach Road (79 Beach

294 State Road

Road), Garde East (52 Beach Road), and

It’s a specialty grocer with hot food to go.

La Soffitta (82 Main Street). Other spots

Don’t miss: gluten-free products.

that offer dinner and drinks include The

GOLDEN BULL

Black Dog Tavern (20 Beach Street Extension), the Copper Wok (9 Main Street), House Café (339 State Road).

THE DISH

SWEET BITES

V I N E YA R D H AV E N does not have

Fish MV (80 Main Street), and Little

G O L D I E ' S R O T I S S E R I E rolled on to the Island food scene last year, driven by long-time Vineyard private chef Lexie Roth and Islander Eva Faber.

Popping up all over the Island, from the Vineyard Artisans Festivals to the Ag Fair, from the ArtCliff Diner to private events, they quickly gained a following not only for their rotisserie chicken but for delicious sides and pastries too.

Follow @goldiesmv on Instagram to find out where they’ll be next.

13 Beach Street Extension Elizabeth Cecil

Vineyard bouillabaisse at Beach Road.

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

It’s a Brazilian steakhouse – rodizio style.

Don’t miss: the salad bar.

53

IN TOWN

Explore | Vineyard Haven

D E S T I N AT I O N :

MV MUSEUM

Ray Ewing

O P E N E D T H R E E Y E A R S AG O,

and a flag from the Vineyard secessionist

the “new” Martha’s Vineyard Museum in

movement in 1977 share wall space with

Vineyard Haven (151 Lagoon Pond Road)

oral histories from Island fishermen.

is now a premier destination for both

Upstairs, the museum has more gallery

tourists and Islanders alike. Situated on

spaces to show temporary or rotating

a hilltop overlooking Lagoon Pond, the

exhibitions.

museum undertook a massive renovation project to turn what was once the Marine

is the fully restored Fresnel lens from the

Hospital into a glistening, 10,000-square-

Gay Head Light, which serves as a brilliant

foot homage to the Island’s rich history.

and historic candelabra in the center of

On the first floor, a permanent exhibit

Ray Ewing

54

The highlight of the museum, however,

the museum’s western pavilion and café.

gives a thematic history of the Vineyard

Beneath it is a permanent exhibit about

that uses time capsules with artifacts

shipwrecks on the Island, and a Hands-On

instead of timelines with dates to tell the

History exhibit for children. Outdoors, the

story of the Island. Items such as a taxider-

Lew French–designed Rose Styron rock

mied heath hen, a scrimshaw model of the

garden is a lovely gathering spot. For more

famed whaling vessel Charles W. Morgan,

information, visit mvmuseum.org.

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Art & Entertainment | Vineyard Haven

TA K E I T T O T H E B E A C H

The Beach Road Weekend music festival is a blast.

Ray Ewing

T H E T H R E E - DAY Beach Road Weekend music festival is happening this year at Veterans Memorial Park from August 26 to August 28 with headliners Beck, Wilco, and The Avett Brothers and singers Lucinda Williams and Emmylou Harris in the hit lineup. Food, fun, and that outdoor vibe mean tickets and passes go fast. Visit beachroadweekend.com for updated Ray Ewing

information.

O N S TA G E

ON SCREEN For film fans.

At the Martha’s Vineyard Playhouse, a

The Martha’s Vineyard Film Center

professional nonprofit theater located in

is the Island’s only twenty-first-century

a beautifully restored nineteenth-century

movie theater, with stadium-style

meetinghouse, you can attend both fully

rows of comfortable purple seats and

staged productions and early readings of

high-tech digital audiovisual systems.

new plays, along with concerts and other

Home of the Martha’s Vineyard Film

events. The lobby doubles as an art gal-

Society, the film center screens first-run

lery with monthly exhibitions in various

and independent films daily and hosts

mediums. There is also a lively winter

festivals throughout the year, including

schedule of readings, musical revues,

the acclaimed Martha’s Vineyard In-

trivia nights, and special events. At the

ternational Film Festival in September.

Tisbury Amphitheater at Tashmoo Over-

Located in the Tisbury Marketplace, the

look, the Playhouse also hosts summer outdoor theater. For more information: mvplayhouse.org/theater.

Anthony Esposito

A performance of The Whaleship Essex was staged at the Playhouse.

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

film center has an art space as well. Visit mvfilmsociety.com for more information.

55

56

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Local Knowledge | Vineyard Haven

DON’T MISS:

F I R S T F R I D AY M U S I C . A R T. F O O D. F U N .

Starting at 4 p.m. on the first Friday of every month from June to October, the town of Vineyard Haven gets festive with live music, food trucks, artist pop-ups, store specials and more. The events take place up and down Main Street (closed to car traffic) and move to evening venues (primarily Owen Park and along the harbor waterfront) for more entertainment.

Designed to celebrate both Vineyard Haven’s maritime culture and the Island’s talented craftspeople, First Friday is an event the whole family will enjoy. For more information, visit firstfridayvh.com.

M O RE

10 1

THINGS TO DO 2

3

4

5

RISE AND SHINE

FA I R T R A D E

P L AY O N

W E S T C H O P WA L K

W E AT H E R O R N O T

Sign up for Saturday morning yoga with YogiJay outdoors at the Martha’s Vineyard Museum.

Shop for ceramics, glassware, and olive oils from Palestine and Haiti at Olive Branch Fair Trade.

Buy tickets for a show or just stop in the lobby to view art exhibits at the historic M.V. Playhouse.

Head out from Main Street towards the West Chop Lighthouse and continue on for a view of Vineyard Sound.

Check out the custom weather vanes at Tuck & Holand’s studio on State Road.

6

7

8

9

10

HOLE IN ONE

CLICK CLUCK

O N T H E W AT E R

CASTING CALL

SHOW TIME

Play a round of mini-golf, then grab a sandwich or an ice cream cone at The Cove Golf & Grill.

Shop the famous thrift shop known as Chicken Alley for clothes, dishes, furniture, and art.

Rent a kayak or paddleboard on Lagoon Pond from WindsUp.

Drive the long dirt road out to the Lake Tashmoo opening and cast for blues.

Take in an outdoor performance at the Tisbury Amphitheater next to Tashmoo Overlook.

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

57

YOUR VACATION STARTS HERE. WELCOME TO MARTHA’S VINEYARD 41.39°N 70.62°W

WHERE TO SHOP. WHAT TO DO. WHERE TO EAT. HOW TO GET AROUND.

Up-to-date information to help you make the most of your Island visit Pudae.

Itaqui quias mint. is always at con youretfingertips.

Ecture sint eaque viditia ndiorro duntibeaque persper ferferf ererion nobis dolupid endipsaecus.Ut ipic tempori volorep erovidunt rem nobit offic to Visit us at welcometomarthasvineyard.com et acestrum ipiducid qui dolor andae volut que

and leave your worries behind.

WelcometoMV.com

Welcometomarthasvineyard.com @ @welcometomarthasvineyard

58

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

59

U P- I S L A N D Farming, fishing, and fantastic views

Larry Glick

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ISLAND GUIDE 2022

Pastoral, hilly, and marked by rough stone walls and winding dirt roads, up-Island is wildly beautiful and much less populated than down-Island. Each of the three up-Island towns has its own character. West Tisbury is the most populous of the three, with a mini town center and deep agrarian roots. Enchanting Chilmark features breathtaking scenery and encompasses the fishing village of Menemsha. Aquinnah is home to many of the Island’s Wampanoags, the Native American tribe that originally settled here on the Island they named Noepe (“dry land amid waters”). And the Wampanoags are stewards of the Island’s most stunning natural feature, the multicolored clay cliffs of Gay Head.

Fast Facts P O P U L AT I O N

5,133 AREA, SQ. MI.

52.1 FA R M S

21 LIGHTHOUSES

Tim Johnson

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

1

61

A D AY A N D A N I G H T U P - I S L A N D 1

combines woods and beach is 1 Cedar

th

Rd .

Tree Neck Sanctuary in West Tisbury.

N or

From there you can head right over to the 2 farmers’ market at the Agricultural Society

ne

yR d. nt

6

4 35 7

id

dl

e

st Tisbury Rd.

.

Rd

S

th ou

.

Rd

Tisbury Great Pond

.

Rd

e

Menemsha Pond

Sta t

AQUINNAH

M

8

p a Tr il

Alley’s is 4 7a Foods, a town favorite for

10

12

ouse Rd. ht h Lig Stat e Rd .

hu

newspapers, and home goods. Behind

9

os

into 3 Alley’s General Store for coffee,

11

M

Head into the heart of West Tisbury. Stop

La

other morning you can hit one of the many

flowers at Mermaid Farm & Dairy.)

CHILMARK

a Te

Saturday morning during the season. (Any

and Farm or yogurt, veggies, cheese, and

2

Edgartown - We

fairgrounds on either a Wednesday or

cheese, bread, and veggies at the Grey Barn

H i l l Rd .

Sta t

the scenic trails. A lovely property that

up-Island farm stands nearby. Pick up meat,

n

WEST TISBURY

dC ou

I nd

ia

are cooler) is a great time to walk one of

Ol

in the woods. Early morning (when temps

eR d.

Start your day up-Island by losing yourself

Squibnocket Pond

13

coffee, pastries, and sandwiches. The West Tisbury Public Library is an excellent rainy day destination. Fill up the car at Up-Island

County Road for rotating exhibits of the best

Auto.

Island painters and photographers as well as

Next, treat yourself to a short tour of some of up-Island’s fine art galleries. Check out the 5 Field Gallery to see Thomas

Maley’s playful sculptures in the garden.

Head to 6 the Granary Gallery on Old

a selection of antiques. Drive up South Road to the charming 7 Kara Taylor Gallery

8 Chilmark Store for snacks. (Grab a slice of pizza and sit out on the porch.) Then

continue on to Aquinnah to visit the 9 Gay Head Lighthouse, explore the Aquinnah

(located in a field) to see Taylor’s oil paint-

shops at the cliffs (page 69), and spend the

ings and mixed media artwork.

Drive west up South Road. Stop at the

Wander down the shore for a close-up view

10 Moshup Beach (page 76). afternoon on 8

of the multicolored cliffs, but be aware that nude sunbathers might be on the beach to the west.

On the way home, stop in the village of

11 Menemsha (page 66), get a lobster and a 9

cup of chowder from one of the fish markets, and dine outside while overlooking the harbor and watching the sunset. (Be aware that the parking lot fills up early before sunset.) Be sure to get soft-serve ice cream 12 Menemsha Galley. Or if you’d at the 6

prefer a restaurant dinner, visit State Road restaurant, Chilmark Tavern, the Outermost Inn, or Lambert’s Cove Inn. End the evening with stargazing on the beach. Vineyard skies – particularly Tim Johnson

To catch one of the best views on the Island, drive from West Tisbury along South Road through Chilmark. Just past the entrance to Allen Farm (on your right if heading west), you'll see a turnoff to a small parking area on the left where you can look over pastures to the south shore beyond.

62

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

those over the south shore – lack the mainland’s light pollution. For excellent

13 Squibnocket Beach, open to viewing, try 0

nonresidents at 5 p.m.

IN TOWN

Stay | Up-Island

S TAY W I T H A V I E W

For peace and quiet – and stunning scenery – choose a small inn or B&B up-Island.

Ray Ewing

BOOK A ROOM The poet’s house For more than thirty years, mystery writer Cynthia Riggs has welcomed visitors – especially writers and poets – to her West Tisbury bed and breakfast. The Cleaveland House has been in her family for eight generations, built by James Athearn 250 years ago. Simple, rustic, and charming, the house features large bedrooms (some with fireplaces) and shared baths. And, of course, there are plenty of good books to read, including Riggs’s Victoria Trumbull mysteries and books by Riggs’s mother, poet Dionis Peter Simon

Coffin Riggs.

C H A R M I N G I N N S are your best bet for this picturesque part of the Island. In West Tisbury, Lambert’s Cove Inn (90 Manaquayak Road) is a fifteen-room property set on an eight-acre farmstead close to the beach with a restaurant right on site.

In Chilmark, the Captain Flanders House (440 North Road) is an eighteenth-century whaling captain’s farmhouse renovated as a bed and breakfast. The thirteen-room Beach Plum Inn (50 Beach Plum Lane), has access to Menemsha Beach and offers rooms, cottages and homes for rent. Menemsha Inn & Cottages (12 Menemsha Inn Road) has fifteen luxurious rooms, a suite, three cottages, and breathtaking views of the North Shore.

Ray Ewing

Lambert's Cove Inn is close to the beach and has its own restaurant on site.

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

63

IN TOWN

Browse | Up-Island

GOOD MORNING, WEST TISBURY

Susie Middleton

B E S T S A N DW I C H

In the Zone: 7a Foods It’s an epic sandwich: house-made pastrami, turkey, swiss, cole slaw, Russian dressing, and potato chips on rye bread.

We don’t know how many Liz Lemons Jeanna Shepard

Late spring brings freshly cut asparagus and garlic scapes to the West Tisbury Farmers’ Market.

7a Foods has made in the last few years; we just know we want one right now.

1045 State Road, West Tisbury

Make a morning of it in West Tisbury: Breakfast at 7a Foods, a newspaper from Alley’s General Store – then off to the farmers’ market or The Vineyard Artisans Festival.

The center of West Tisbury is the happening spot for both Vineyarders and visitors alike on weekend mornings. A breakfast sandwich at 7a Foods and a newspaper from Alley’s General Store will get you going.

Across the street, the award-winning West Tisbury Public Library has free WiFi, a rotating art exhibit inside – and,

Albert O. Fischer

64

of course, books and videos for all. Next door, the playful Tom Maley sculptures at the Field Gallery beckon. And on Sunday mornings, you’ll notice the crowds moving past the First Congregational Church of West Tisbury towards the Grange Hall up the street for the Vineyard Artisans Festivals (right).

Ray Ewing

A Festival of Artisans

Before the pandemic, the West

From jewelry to clothing, paintings to

Tisbury Farmers’ Market (p. 88) was

ceramics, the Vineyard Artisans Festi-

also held at the Grange Hall – on both

vals showcase a range of Island-made

Saturdays and Wednesdays. Now you’ll

items. In season, shows happen at the

find the market in its spacious new

Grange Hall on Thursdays and Sun-

location (with plenty of parking) on the

days. Festivals also occur on many holi-

fairgrounds of the Martha’s Vineyard

day weekends, starting with Memorial

Agricultural Society, just a short drive

Day and running through Thanksgiv-

from the town center. Shop for flowers,

ing. Some are held at the Ag Hall. For

veggies, bread, cheese, oysters, and more.

locations see, vineyardartisans.com.

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Eat | Up-Island

THE GOODS Up-Island is rich hunting ground for foodies. Here are a few great finds.

DO THE LIMPOPO

D A I LY B R E A D

A brunch stop at State Road restaurant is

You could live off this stuff: the Grey Barn

essential for baker Leslie Hewson's famed

and Farm’s artisan loaves (left) and pas-

pastries. Don't miss the limpopo, a cinna-

tries (try the kouign amman)are not to be

mon sugar brioche doughnut without the

missed. Don’t forget the award-winning

hole. 688 State Road, West Tisbury.

cheese. 22 South Road, Chilmark.

HEN-PICKED Fresh eggs daily – as well as beautiful salad

GO GREEN

greens, baby zucchini and other specialty

Combine a scenic drive on Middle Road

veggies, Island-raised meat and more – are

with a stop at Beetlebung Farm, where

yours at the North Tabor Farm stand.

Molly Glasgow

you’ll find gorgeous salad greens and vegetables in the quaint self-serve farm

4 North Tabor Road, Chilmark.

stand. 410 Middle Road, Chilmark.

THE CONE A soft-serve cone from the Menemsha Gal-

LASSO A LASSI

ley is a rite of passage. Sit on the back porch

Mermaid Farm & Dairy in Chilmark has

or walk around to look at the fishing shacks.

a herd of Jersey cows producing raw milk,

Chocolate dipped? Yes.

whole milk yogurt, artisan cheese, and

515 North Road, Menemsha.

four flavors of yogurt lassi.

Tim Johnson

9 Middle Road, Chilmark.

A B OX O F C H O C O L AT E S

BAGELS TO GO

New in 2020, Salt Rock Chocolates is con-

For brunch al fresco, pre-order your

tinuing the tradition started by Chilmark

fresh sourdough bagels and house-made

Chocolates of up-Island handmade choco-

schmears from Fantzye Bagels, which pops

lates. Find them at the farmers’ market or

up at State Road restaurant on Sunday

online at saltrockchocolate.com.

mornings. 688 State Road, West Tisbury.

P I Z Z A BY T H E S L I C E

C H OW-C H OW D E R

Grab a slice, a newspaper, and a spot on the

Grab a cup of freshly made chowder at

porch for some excellent people watching at

Larsen’s Fish Market, and sit on the wharf

the Chilmark General Store. 7 State Road, Chilmark.

to watch the fishing boats unload and filet Jeanna Shepard

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

their catch. 56 Basin Road, Menemsha.

65

IN TOWN

Explore | Up-Island

D E S T I N AT I O N :

MENEMSHA

Tim Johnson

A N Y U P - I S L A N D J A U N T must include a side trip to the fishing village of Menemsha. You can stroll the wharves and watch the boats unload their catch while you eat a fresh lobster roll or a freshly steamed lobster dockside. Pick up fresh fish to take home for dinner too. Cousins Betsy Larsen and Stanley Larsen each operate a fish store on Basin Road – take your pick.

Visiting the village during the daytime is fun because you can browse the row of shops along Basin Road too. Shop

Larry Glick

Pandora’s Box for quintessentially summer Vineyard clothing and Menemsha

Menemsha because the sunset watching

Blues for T-shirts and hoodies. There’s

is so spectacular. If you plan on being part

an antiques and collectibles store and an

of the sunset crowd, you’ll want to head

old-school ship’s chandlery as well. Bring

up to Menemsha early. Get a soft-serve

your bathing suit, some beach chairs,

ice cream cone from the Menemsha Gal-

and a good book, if you like – Menem-

ley, then pick your viewing spot.

sha beach is open to the public and kid

Menemsha has public restrooms but

friendly too. Be sure to take a photo of

very little parking. Fill up at the Menem-

sculptor Jay Lagemann’s iconic Swordfish

sha Texaco if you need to, then backtrack

Harpooner.

to Tabor House Road and park in the free

But while a daytime visit is nice, early evening is the most popular time to visit 66

lot to take a shuttle back in for sunset viewing.

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

Jeanna Shepard

A new generation of Island fishermen helps sort the catch on the wharves of Menemsha.

IN TOWN

Art & Entertainment | Up-Island

GALLERY GRAZING

Up-Island galleries are indoor-outdoor experiences.

Ray Ewing

More to Explore Both emerging and long-established artists find special inspiration in working and exhibiting up-Island. Their studios and galleries (as well as a few other multi-artist studios) are most often open by appointment, for advertised events, or during seasonal hours. Visit their websites (and Mark Alan Lovewell

Make the Granary Gallery (above) and MV Glassworks (right) two stops on your West Tisbury tour.

follow them on Instagram) for updates.

A G A L L E RY Contemporary fine art from the Vine-

G R A N A RY G A L L E RY

K A R A TAY L O R G A L L E RY

Open year-round in the iconic red barn

Island artist Kara Taylor’s gallery is in a

on Old County Road, Granary offers

field where she features outdoor artwork

a stunning mix of contemporary and

by Island sculptors. The interior is devot-

twentieth-century artworks, fine crafts,

ed to her own paintings and mixed-media

and antiques (granarygallery.com).

work (karataylorart.com).

F I E L D G A L L E RY

MV GLASSWORKS

With frolicsome sculptures by Tom

A studio, gallery, and shop in one, this

Maley and stonework by Lew French out-

state-of-the-art glass-blowing business

side, the seasonal Field Gallery represents

founded in 1992 features both expert

R U E L G A L L E RY

a changing mix of contemporary artists

craftsmanship and an educational mission

indoors (fieldgallery.com).

(mvglassworks.com).

Home of painter Colin Ruel and jeweler

yard and beyond (agallery.org).

DAV I S H O U S E Studio and gallery of well-known Island painter Allen Whiting (allenwhiting.com).

S A R G E N T G A L L E RY Aquinnah gallery dedicated to environmental art (sargentgallery.org).

Nettie Kent’s work (ruelgallery.com).

M E E T M E AT T H E C H I L M A R K F L E A

Ray Ewing

One more fabulous reason to love Saturday

clothing (like Angela Sison and her Conrado

(and Wednesday!) mornings on Martha’s

brand, left) and jewelry to vintage finds

Vineyard – the Chilmark Flea Market,

and antiques. The entrance is at 142 North

operated by Chilmark Community Church.

Road and parking fills up fast (especially on

The oldest outdoor flea market on the Is-

a cloudy day) so plan to hit the Chilmark

land has grown to include artists and small

flea early. It runs from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., late

entrepreneurs that sell everything from

June through mid-September.

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

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ISLAND GUIDE 2022

IN TOWN

Local Knowledge | Up-Island

DON'T MISS:

THE CLIFFS Nothing’s better than breakfast at the Aquinnah Shop Restaurant, perched on the Gay Head Cliffs with a killer view of Vineyard Sound (left). After breakfast, shop for authentic Island-made wampum jewelry and other traditional Wampanoag craft, as well as souvenirs and T-shirts, from the shops clustered on the path up to the best view on the Island, the Aquinnah Overlook. The Gay Head Light (page 104) will be to your right, with the Aquinnah Cultural Center and a view of Moshup Beach below you. If you arrive at lunchtime, pick up a sandwich or pastry from the Orange Peel Bakery Café. Or visit at dusk when the view of the sunset from the overlook is unsurpassed.

For more information on the WampaMark Alan Lovewell

noag tribe, see page 92.

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THINGS TO DO 2

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CHECK IT OUT

DAW N TO D U S K

GET SMART

KIDS & KIDS

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The award-winning West Tisbury Public Libary has events, art shows, classes, speakers and more.

Wander Polly Hill Arboretum’s twenty acres of cultivated plants and forty acres of woodlands.

Learn about Wampanoag history at the Tribe’s cultural center in Aquinnah.

Visit the pygmy goats and chickens at Native Earth Teaching Farm in Chilmark.

Pick up flowers, herbs, and perennials at Vineyard Gardens and Middletown Nursery.

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SHORT CUT

T H E LO N G R OA D

SIT A SPELL

SNAPS

Stop into Tending Joy, a cheerful gift shop in North Tisbury.

Take the bike ferry from Menemsha to Lobsterville in Aquinnah.

Walk the trails from pine forest to beach at Long Point Wildlife Refuge.

Grab a bite and hang out on the front porch of the Chilmark General Store.

Take a selfie with Jay Lagemann’s swordfisherman sculpture in Menemsha.

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Larry Glick

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OUTSIDE While the individual towns of Martha’s Vineyard are undeniably charming, if you limit your visit to walking the villages and frequenting the town beaches you’ll miss much of the very thing that makes the Island unique: its diverse and impressive natural beauty.

Hidden away down dirt roads, beyond stone walls, and over the sandy dunes lie mossy woodland walking trails, crescent beaches, working farms and waterfronts,

swimming holes, pocket parks, and lighthouses – all of them graced by a seemingly endless supply of gorgeous views.

Add in the golf courses, tennis courts, sailboat rentals, fishing charters, and more, and there’s no excuse (except for perhaps an unseasonable northeaster) not to venture beyond the towns and enjoy the kind of outdoor experiences that are hard to duplicate on the mainland. Fill up on Vineyard beauty while you can.

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LOCAL FAV O R I T E S An Opinionated Guide to Beaches, Lighthouses, Farm Stands, and Trails

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Even if you washed ashore on the Island and decided to stay for the next fifty years, you’d probably never be able to make it to every hiking trail, beach, lighthouse, and farm stand on

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the Island. If you’ve only got a week or a week-

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end, deciding what to see is even more tricky.

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What to do? Take a cue from the folks who live here year-round. Here are some of the favorites on Islanders’ must-see lists.

Lobsterville Beach

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Walk, swim, and fish the two miles of beautiful Vineyard Sound beach and dunes on Lobsterville Road. Open to all, but parking is limited along the road.

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Polly Hill Arboretum Horticulturist Polly Hill spent fifty years developing this landmark garden containing rare trees and shrubs from around the world. Open sunrise to sunset.

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ND D G GU UIID DEE 22002222 IISSLLAAN

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Local Favorites

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BEACHES

LIGHTHOUSES

FA R M S

TRAILS

1 . South Beach

1 . Edgartown Light

1 . Morning Glory

1 . Menemsha Hills

2 . State Beach

2 . East Chop Light

2 . The Grey Barn

2 . Cedar Tree Neck

3 . Lighthouse Beach

3 . West Chop Light

3 . Ghost Island Farm

3 . Felix Neck Wildlife

4 . Lobsterville Beach

4 . Gay Head Light

4 . Slip Away Farm

Sanctuary

5 . Long Point Beach

5 . Cape Pogue Light

5 . Mermaid Farm

4 . Long Point

6 . Moshup Beach

6 . Farmers’ Market

5 . Polly Hill

7. Menemsha Beach

7. North Tabor Farm

8 . The Inkwell

8 . Allen Farm 9 . Bayes Norton Farm

Arboretum 6 . Sheriff ’s Meadow Sanctuary 7. Waskosim’s Rock 8 . Mytoi Gardens 9 . West Chop Woods

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1 0 . Farm Pond Preserve

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Edgartown Lighthouse

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The Edgartown Harbor Light is accessible via a sandy causeway and is open weekends starting late May and daily from late June to September.

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Morning Glory Farm With over sixty acres of vegetables in cultivation, Morning Glory’s farm store is the place to stop in high summer for justpicked corn, tomatoes, squash, and more.

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Alexander R. Wilcox Cheek

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ISLAND GUIDE 2022

OUTSIDE

Beaches

SIX BEACHES, SIX PERSONALITIES Check out our beach matchmaker and find one that suits your style.

What’s your ideal Island beach? Does it have waves for bodysurfing or calm shallows for little kids? Do you wake up early for the sunrise, or would you prefer watching the sun set over the water? Want to bring the dog? The kayak? However you define the perfect beach, chances are good we have one.

And while we only have room to highlight six here, we think you’ll find a perfect match. Take note that while these six beaches are among the many public beaches on Martha’s Vineyard, there are also private and town beaches on the Island that require either permission or permits for visiting.

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OUTSIDE

Beaches

T H E D O G G I E S T B E AC H :

Lighthouse Beach A short stroll from downtown Edgartown, Lighthouse Beach and its adjoining Fuller Street Beach are perfect walking and shell-hunting beaches. The beaches follow the town’s leash law, so dogs are permitted as long as they are leashed. One of the Island’s most photographed spots, with its gleaming white lighthouse (open for tours in season), wide views, and spectacular sunrises over Chappy, Lighthouse Beach is also a perfect spot to watch the parade of boats sailing in to and out of the harbor. Use restrooms in Ray Ewing

town.

T H E W I L D E S T B E AC H :

Long Point While birds and other creatures are the main event at the 600-acre Long Point Wildlife Refuge – which has easy hiking trails through woodlands and sand barrens – the beach is a powerful attraction as well.

Like South Beach, its waves make for fun, if sometimes dangerous, swimming, though calmer waters on the pond side are an option. (Kayak and paddleboard rentals are available on the pond.) The refuge provides restrooms, picnic tables, and paid parking that fills quickly: watch for signs on the Edgartown– Martha's Vineyard Magazine Archive

West Tisbury Road. Dogs are prohibited.

T H E W E S T E R N M O S T B E AC H :

Moshup Visiting this ocean beach along the Gay Head Cliffs takes commitment: a hefty parking fee and tenminute walk from the lot are not for everyone, but the swimming and scenery at Moshup (also called Aquinnah Beach) make it easy to spend a day here.

On a clear day, the small island of Noman’s Land is visible offshore. The colorful clay cliffs are appealing but off limits: they’re a national landmark belonging to the Wampanoag; disturbing them is illegal. Pets are not permitted. Another caveat: you may see nude Jeanna Shepard

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bathers. Restrooms are located near the parking lot.

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Beaches

T H E E A S I E S T B E AC H :

State Beach All you have to do to get to Joseph A. Sylvia State Beach, a two-mile stretch that spans Edgartown and Oak Bluffs, is pull over (or park your bike or hop off a bus) along Beach Road. (Arriving before 10 a.m. is advisable; parking spots are plentiful but they do fill up.) There’s a walkway every few hundred feet, including wooden ramps near handicapped parking.

The shallow waters of Nantucket Sound make for safe swimming, and at the Edgartown end, Bend in the Road Beach has lifeguards in season. No dogs from April 1 to August 31. There are no restrooms.

Maria Thibodeau

T H E L I V E L I E S T B E AC H :

South Beach If you want to swim and bodysurf in big waves, South Beach at Katama is the place to go. The longest stretch of public beach on the Vineyard, South Beach is popular with families and large groups. The smooth sand along the water’s edge is perfect for beach walking, though erosion continues to affect the shape of the beach. Also be aware that rip currents and undertow can make the surf hazardous; check at a lifeguard tower for the latest conditions. Dogs are not allowed; parking is free. Restrooms and changing rooms provided.

Tim Johnson

T H E I N -T O W N B E AC H :

Inkwell Convenient and accessible, the stretch of Nantucket Sound called the Inkwell has long been a popular spot for moms and kids as well as swimmers of all ages. Historic reports indicate that Martin Luther King Jr. swam at the Inkwell, along with countless other celebrities, film, and television stars. Located alongside Waban Park, this Oak Bluffs beach is also a great spot to watch ferries and boats come and go.

Mid-May to mid-September, dogs are not allowed between 7 a.m. and 5 p.m. Use restrooms in town.

Wheelchair ramps to the beach are available.

Peter Simon

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HAPPY TRAILS Lace up your boots: with more than 100 trails, the Vineyard is an Island just made for walking.

BY HOLLY PRETSKY

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Ray Ewing

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OUTSIDE

Trails

Brian Jolley

M

artha’s Vineyard is famous around the world for its beaches, but

Islanders know that to find some of the Vineyard’s most beautiful spots, one needs to be willing to stray from the shore. There are almost 20,000 acres of conserved land on the Island and almost as many ways to explore and appreciate them. From the time the first snowdrops and forsythia bloom in spring to the changing of brilliant fall foliage, there is no amount of ennui that can’t be over-

come by a dirt path, a quiet creek, a stone wall, a distant blinking lighthouse.

The unparalleled public access to well-groomed trails and undisturbed nature around the Island is no accident.

It’s the result of decades of thoughtful and strategic acquisition and hard work. A Mark Alan Lovewell

Top: The walk down to Moshup Beach is worth it. Bottom: Beauty reveals itself at every turn on the long, winding walk through Menemsha Hills down to the north shore.

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strong sense of conservation for the public good and for the flora and fauna of the Island has protected Vineyard land

OUTSIDE

Trails

visitor who follows them with a little bit of openness and curiosity.

Even day-trip visitors without transportation can access trails easily and speedily from down-Island towns.

In Edgartown, take a walk around Sheriff’s Pond in Sheriff’s Meadow Sanctuary (page 33), tucked away just minutes from downtown. In Vineyard Haven, the West Chop Woods preserve is just a short walk up Main Street. And a little ways down State Road is the rambling Tisbury Meadow Preserve with a network of wooded rolling hills and ancient ways.

In Oak Bluffs, the Farm Pond Preserve is accessible just a little more than half a mile from Ocean Park.

Tim Johnson

Walking the Brickyard on the North Shore, you’ll not only get stunning views of Vineyard Sound, but also a look at remnants of the nineteenth century brickworks, including its iconic chimney.

For those able to travel up-Island, the Tiasquam Valley and Waskosim’s Rock reservations on the border of West Tisbury and Chilmark offer seemingly

since before the development boom of the

the best source for trail maps. The guide,

endless interconnecting routes. Visitors

1980s, and continues to endure today.

available in Island bookstores, contains

will find an old bridge crossing Mill Brook

maps and descriptions of more than sixty

and the foundation of an old farmstead.

cated to the preservation and manage-

trails and includes a popular checklist for

At the top of a steep hill, enjoy a view of

ment of land. Since 1986, the Martha’s

hikers who want to be sure they’ve visited

the Island all the way to Vineyard Haven.

Vineyard Land Bank Commission has

each trail. But since 2018, hikers have

In Chilmark, the Menemsha Hills

been tasked with acquiring and managing

also had the option of downloading the

Reservation, managed by the Trustees

public spaces using a 2 percent transfer

free TrailsMV app, created by Sheriff’s

of Reservations, is a perennial favorite.

fee on every real estate transaction that

Meadow Foundation. Once downloaded,

Two years ago the Trustees opened the

takes place on the Island. The land bank

the useful app uses GPS to locate your

Brickyard trail (adjacent to Menemsha

manages some seventy-five properties, all

position on any trail on the Island. (For

Hills), making this long and scenic walk a

clearly marked with signs showing their

more information, visit sheriffsmeadow.

time-travel experience too. Visitors can

distinctive logo.

org/trailsmv-app).

view the remains of the once-thriving

There are multiple organizations dedi-

Most years, the land bank hosts an

Trails are generally open to the public

Vineyard brickyard located on the north

early summer cross-Island hike, an all-day

from sunup to sundown, and hikers are

shore while taking in stunning views of

odyssey linking a host of public trails. The

expected to respect adjacent property

the Sound as well.

hike draws dozens of participants and is

owners by keeping their voices down and

an excellent opportunity to learn about

being sure to pick up litter.

Many of the best spots, though, are those discovered by accident. Next time

new trails. Just walking a leg or two is fine:

Almost anywhere on the Island, you

only a hardy few complete the entire walk.

will find yourself within walking distance

sign!), do yourself a favor and pull over.

Indispensable to the Vineyard hiker

of a trail or reserve (see the map on page

You never know what you might find.

are two guides, one in print, the other an

74 for some of our favorites). The paths

app. For many years, Walking Trails of

often connect to one another in surpris-

Holly Pretsky is a former Vineyard Gazette

Martha’s Vineyard, by William Flender of

ing ways, sometimes opening up onto a

reporter living, writing, and editing in New

the Vineyard Conservation Society, was

hidden meadow or pond, rewarding the

York.

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you see a land bank sign (or any trail

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Jeanna Shepard

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FA R M C H A R M Visiting farm stands and shopping at the West Tisbury Farmers’ Market are two of the best ways to get to know Martha’s Vineyard.

Martha’s Vineyard has more than thirty commercial farms, a farmers’ market that has operated continuously for forty-eight years, an agricultural fair that’s 160 years old, and many nonprofits dedicated to supporting the Island food community and to preserving land. It’s fair to say that agriculture is a big deal here.

After school each day, Reed Cabot heads to Brookside Farm in Chilmark to help care for a pair of young oxen.

(Please note, Brookside Farm is not open to the public, but the oxen are easily viewed from Middle Road.)

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OUTSIDE

Farms

P I G S & G OAT S & C H I C K E N S , O H M Y !

SIX TO TRY T O U R A N OYS T E R FA R M with Cottage City Oysters (cottagecityoysters. com). Hop on a launch at the hatchery and travel across Lagoon Pond to the farm.

C E L E B R AT E T H E H A R V E S T at the strawberry or pumpkin festivals held in June and October at Morning Glory Farm (morningloryfarm.com) in Edgartown.

SIGN UP FOR A WORKSHOP at Slough Farm (sloughfarm.org) or The FARM Institute (see next page), both in Katama. Gardening, cooking, and fiber arts are all on the calendar.

T RY G OAT YO G A or bring the kids to meet the animals at Native Earth Teaching Farm (nativeearthteachingfarm.org) in Chilmark.

Brian Jolley

The Island is home to some very fine swine!

Alpaca in Oak Bluffs (islandalpaca.com).

I T ’ S A L O T O F F U N to get in the

farm, you’ll need to sign up for a tour or

car, cash or Venmo in hand, and drive

participate in scheduled programming at

around Martha’s Vineyard to different

one of the bigger farms. This is because

farm stands, where you’ll find varieties

most farms aren’t open to the public on

of produce you’d never see in the grocery

a daily basis (and some not at all). They

store, not to mention artisan bread and

simply can’t afford the time or personnel

cheese and a wealth of other Island-made

it would take to guide visitors safely

products.

around the farm while keeping livestock

Many smaller farms on the Vineyard

and crops safe too. Never open a gate on

have self-serve farm stands, a few bigger

a farm or wander beyond the farm stand

farms have farm stores, and most farms

area if not invited!

participate in the twice-weekly West

Adults and kids alike love these friendly and colorful animals.

TA S T E T H E C H E E S E (award-winning cheese!) at a scheduled tasting or tour at the Grey Barn and Farm in Chilmark.

Fortunately, there are tours and events

Tisbury Farmers’ Market. (For details on

at Island farms and nonprofits that give

both, see page 88).

you the insider view.

So while these sources give you great

Check out our sample list of typical

access to farm products, you should bear

events (at right); then visit eventsmv.com

in mind that to see the working side of a

for 2022 dates and availability.

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V I S I T T H E A L PAC A S at Island

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

Ray Ewing

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OUTSIDE

Farms

I N O . B . , S U N D AY I S M A R K E T D AY Mixing it up on Sunday mornings in Washington Park, the Oak Bluffs Open Market is one part flea market and one part artisan fair, with a dash of farmers’ market and a hit of live music to round things off. From 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., late May through mid-September (9 a.m. to 1 p.m. in July and August), a lively mix of vendors sells everything from wampum jewelry to birdbaths, baby potatoes to egg rolls.

Jeanna Shepard

In addition to vegetables, fruit, shellfish, honey, salt, and other Island ingredients, the West Tisbury Farmers' Market features booths selling Island-made treats like Yommi's superfood pops.

KEEP ON TRUCKIN’ T H E W E S T T I S B U RY FA R M E R S ’ M A R K E T Mark Alan Lovewell

T H E FA R M I N S T I T U T E A sparkling teaching kitchen built three years ago has expanded the opportunity

Founded in 1974, the West Tisbury

still run a few weeks after that. Addition-

Farmers’ Market is still going strong after

ally, there is a Wednesday market that

forty-eight years. In fact, the market piv-

typically runs from the third week in June

oted so successfully during the pandemic

through Labor Day weekend.

– moving from the old Grange Hall to the

Both days you’ll find everything from

Agricultural Society fairgrounds – that

fresh vegetables and flowers to honey,

market organizers worked with the town

bread, sea salt, cheese, meat, pies, herbs,

to make the new location permanent.

chocolates, soaps, coffee, and even oysters

Institute, managed by The Trustees of

The fairgrounds offer not only more room

and other shellfish.

Reservations on the 162-acre former

to move around (and more parking), but

dairy farm known as Katama Farm.

a better flow from booth to booth too.

urday market moves inside to the main

The FARM is open to the public, has a

Vendors and shoppers alike love it.

hall of the Ag Society on a schedule that is

for educational farm programming to move in to the kitchen at The FARM

In November and December, the Sat-

seasonal farm stand, and offers a variety

The Saturday edition of the market

of ways to learn more about growing and

typically runs from the second week in

raising food. Katama Farm is also home

June through early October, though some

dates and a list of participating vendors,

to a variety of livestock.

years the (outdoor) Saturday market will

visit wtfmarket.org.

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ISLAND GUIDE 2022

determined at the end of the summer.

For more information on the 2022

OUTSIDE

Farms

V I S I T A FA R M S TA N D C H A P PA Q U I D D I C K

V I N E YA R D H AV E N

Chappaquiddick Farmers’ Market: 180

Bakehouse Farm: 977 State Road,

Chappaquiddick Road, Chappaquiddick

Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6633

508-627-8222

Island Grown Initiative’s Farm Hub:

Slip Away Farm: 199 Chappaquiddick

80 Stoney Hill Road, Vineyard Haven

Road, Chappaquiddick · 508-627-7465

508-687-9062

of interrupting their work. Bring cash and

CHILMARK

WEST TISBURY

a shopping bag. Some vendors now have

The Allen Farm Sheep & Wool Company:

Blackwater Farm: 40 Cottle Lane, West

Venmo.

421 South Road, Chilmark · 508-645-9064

Tisbury · 508-693-9785

Beetlebung Farm: 410 Middle Road,

Ghost Island Farm: 27 Davis Look Road,

Glory Farm’s is the biggest. Now open

Chilmark

West Tisbury · 508-693-5161

year-round, the store offers a huge variety

The Grey Barn and Farm: 22 South Road,

North Tisbury Farm & Market: 632 State

of their own vegetables, meat, and eggs,

Chilmark · 508-645-4854

Road, West Tisbury · 508-696-4664

as well as products from other farms. The

Crossroads Farmstand (The Garden

Stoney Hill Farm: 196 Stoney Hill Road,

kitchen turns out prepared meals to go plus

Farm and Fire Cat Farm): Just before 31

West Tisbury · 508-696-9486

a variety of freshly baked bread, pies, and

Menemsha Crossroads · 508-939-0096

Whippoorwill Farm Stand, Old County

pastries. Ghost Island Farm has their own

Mermaid Farm and Dairy: 9 Middle

Road, West Tisbury.

greens and veggies as well as a big selection

Road, Chilmark · 508-645-3492

of Island-made artisanal products. The farm

Native Earth Teaching Farm: 94 North

offers a preorder option at ghostislandfarm.

Road, Chilmark · 508-645-3304

square.site.

North Tabor Farm: 4 North Tabor Farm

N O T E V E RY FA R M on the Island has an on-site retail location, but many do have small self-serve stands, and a few have farm stores. Reminders: keep your dog in the car, don’t wander around farm grounds beyond the stand without permission from a farmer, and know that farmers work nonstop during the season, so be mindful

Of the indoor farm “stores,” Morning

The Grey Barn and Farm’s farm stand is open year-round, selling their own meat, award-winning cheeses, and vegetables, as well as their own artisan bread and pastries baked in the on-farm bakery.

Beetlebung Farm has a self-serve farm stand featuring greens, vegetables, herbs, and local meat.

North Tabor Farm built a new indoor farm stand in 2020 and expanded their

Road, Chilmark · 508-645-3311

EDGARTOWN The FARM Institute: 14 Aero Avenue Katama · 508-627-7007 Morning Glory Farm: 120 Meshacket Road, Edgartown · 508-627-9003 Slough Farm: 15 Butler’s Cove Road, Katama, Edgartown

inventory beyond their own popular greens mixes, veggies, eggs, and meat. Mermaid Farm farm stand is open year-round; fridges are stocked with cheese, meat, pea

OAK BLUFFS

shoots, yogurt, and lassis. Allen Farm has

Bayes Norton Farm: 223 Edgartown–

lamb and all manner of woolen products.

Vineyard Haven Road, Oak Bluffs

Look for the “open” sign on South Road. In

508-696-5989

season, Bayes Norton Farm is known for its

The Greenhouse of Martha’s Vineyard:

strawberries. Slip Away Farm on Chappa-

114 New York Avenue, Oak Bluffs

quiddick has a seasonal sheltered farm stand.

508-693-2019 W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

Ivy Ashe

89

Required Reading

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Welcome to Martha’s Vineyard

The Time Machine

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Jeanna Shepard

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THE ORIGINALS The first year-round Islanders were ancestors of today’s Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah).

BY JOHN H. KENNEDY

Tim Johnson

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Peter Simon Tim Johnson

If you’re new to visiting Martha’s Vineyard, you may not know that Native Americans beat the English to the Island by 9,000 years.

They were here first – by a long shot.

Sound and separating the Island from the

large; on its website the Tribe proclaims

mainland. Moshup remains an important

that “he still presides over our destinies.”

symbol (quite literally, he holds a whale by

Moshup taught his people well. They

its tale in the Tribe’s official logo), as well

were known around the world during

as a spiritual touchstone.

the nineteenth century’s golden age of

The Wampanoags’ story is also one

whaling for their skills. In Moby Dick, the

of proselytization, displacement, and

harpooner Tashtego was from Gay Head.

marginalization following the arrival of

At the top of the cliffs, you’ll find a

whites in the early seventeenth century.

breathtaking view of the Elizabeth Islands

Nevertheless, the Aquinnah tribe has

(also said to have been Moshup’s creation),

endured and left an indelible mark on the

a restaurant, and a collection of shops that

Island they called Noepe (meaning “dry

sell crafts, gifts, food, and other items,

land amid waters”).

including wampum made with quahaug

Today the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head

Today, the Tribe is proud of its history,

(Aquinnah) is the only federally recognized

culture, and primacy. It claims more than

The area has been spruced up with a

tribe on the Island and the first recognized

1,000 members, about 315 of whom live

redone picnic area and redesign of the

in Massachusetts. And the Wampanoag

on the Vineyard.

Overlook that improved accessibility,

(clam) shells. (See page 69.)

once had settlements across the Island and

On a visit to the Island, you may first

enhanced the viewing experience, and

throughout much of southeastern Mas-

encounter tribal members at the majestic

unearthed a World War II bunker on the

sachusetts and Rhode Island, dating back,

Gay Head Cliffs at the extreme western tip

site.

yes, thousands of years.

of Martha’s Vineyard, a site people visit

You’ll also want to visit the iconic Gay

Their story is rich in lore, starting with

from around the world. It is there that

Head Lighthouse nearby (to the north of

the creation legend of the benevolent giant

Moshup was said to have lived in a cave

the Overlook), but don’t forget to also take

Moshup, who by dragging his foot across

and taught his people how to fish and catch

a walk in the opposite direction (towards

the ground ended up creating Vineyard

whales. His spiritual presence still looms

the south, downhill along the Aquinnah

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Circle) to the Aquinnah Cultural Center, once the homestead of Edwin DeVries Vanderhoop, the first Island Wampanoag to serve in the Massachusetts legislature.

It now serves as a tribal museum (and commands one of the Island’s most beautiful vistas from its porch). A path that runs alongside the center winds down to the beach where you can swim, stroll, or just marvel at the cliffs, whose distinctive striations of color provide a stunning first glimpse of the Island to sailors. (Those reddish hues are said to have come from the blood of whales killed by Moshup who tossed them against the cliffs.)

After the arrival of whites in the early 1640s, many natives were converted to Christianity. And in the central part of town is a church that’s said to be the oldest continually operating Native American church in the nation, the Community Baptist Church of Gay Head, established in 1693. The steeple-topped whitewashed building on Church Street, not far from town hall and the community center, still plays an important part of many tribal members’ lives.

There may be some confusion over the use of the name Gay Head for the cliffs, the church, and the lighthouse. The white English settlers who arrived in the seventeenth century took one look at the cliffs and soon named them the Gay Head

Iris Donnelly

Cliffs. The name stuck, becoming the

meantime, it has fought and won the right

official name of the town in 1870, until

to build an electronic bingo facility on its

two decades ago when residents voted to

tribal land in Aquinnah, after the U.S. Su-

return to the original name of Aquinnah,

preme Court in 2018 declined to overturn

or “land under the hill.” But there are some

a ruling in the Tribe’s favor. As you drive

old-timers who still prefer Gay Head.

on South Road, between Moshup Trail

In front of the town hall is a plaque

and Black Brook Road (the entrance to the

from the governor of Massachusetts, who

Tribe’s headquarters), you might be able

honored the town of Gay Head for sending

to glimpse the four-acre site planned for

more men per capita into the Army and

the 10,000-square-foot electronic bingo

Navy in World War I than any other town

operation. (As of this writing, however, the

in New England. Most if not all of those

Tribe has not announced whether it will

men were Wampanoag.

move forward with that project by comply-

Two signature moments in the Tribe’s

ing with state and local building permits.)

modern history came in 1987, when after

The calendar year on Martha’s Vine-

years of disputes between the Tribe and

yard typically includes several events cel-

the town, the state, and a taxpayers’ group,

ebrating the Tribe’s Wampanoag culture.

Congress endorsed the Settlement Act,

The annual powwow, which features tribal

conferring on the Tribe about 485 acres

drumming, singing, food, and vendors,

while requiring that it comply with state

usually comes in September. On the

and local laws. Earlier that same year, the

second Tuesday in October, tribal children

federal government officially recognized

are excused from school to participate in

the Tribe. (The Mashpee Wampanoag

Cranberry Day, the tribe’s most significant

Tribe is the only other Massachusetts tribe

holiday that once lasted over several days.

that has achieved federal recognition.)

The Native American Artisans Festival

For the last several decades, the Tribe has attempted to gain the right to build

usually happens in July. Check eventsmv. com for 2022 dates and information.

a full-fledged casino (presumably on the mainland) – and it reaffirmed that desire Mark Alan Lovewell

in a letter to the governor last year. In the W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

John H. Kennedy is a journalist and educator who lives in West Tisbury.

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GET SPORTY On the court, in the ring, out to sea – where to play on Martha’s Vineyard.

Some days are mini-golf days, others are eighteen-hole outings. You might be psyched to go windsurfing or just looking to chill out on a scenic kayak tour or a tall ship cruise. Maybe you’ve never held a fishing rod, or maybe you’re ready to catch the really big one. No matter your mood or your athletic prowess, the Vineyard has a sporting opportunity for you. Turn the page to find out where to play golf or tennis, where to go horseback riding, where to rent a kayak or a bike, how to book a fishing or sailing charter, and even where to moor your sailboat if you’re cruising over to the Island.

We’ve also got yoga (and exercise) classes of every style in studios and fitness centers all over the Island; visit mvol.com for locations.

Tim Johnson

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OUTSIDE

Sports

SAILING, SAILING Martha’s Vineyard is one of New England’s premier boating destinations.

The three down-Island harbors offer the most popular anchorages, all with launch services and plenty of amenities ashore.

Vineyard Haven Harbor is the spot most boaters encounter after the hairraising tidal passage through Woods Hole. This busy working harbor has a definite sailing flavor, with dozens of wooden boats and classic schooners.

The inner mooring area (tisburyma. gov/harbormaster) is protected by a breakwater and is calm in most weather.

The outer harbor has more moorings and a free anchorage.

Regattas take place throughout the season. The second weekend in July features the Vineyard Cup, which benefits Island youth sailing programs. The Moffett Cup is the weekend after Labor Day, drawing most of the harbor’s top sailors for a season-ending event.

To the east is Oak Bluffs Harbor, which is more popular with powerboatRay Ewing

ers than with sailors. On the busiest weekends, all eighty-one slips that ring the harbor are filled with gawk-worthy boats, while fifty moorings are rafted four deep in the middle of the harbor.

You must reserve online (oakbluffsmarina.com); reserve early as popular dates go quickly.

The harbor is lined with rollicking bars, and one of the busiest weekends comes in mid-July, when the Oak Bluffs Bluewater Classic big-game fishing tournament takes over the harbor.

which sponsors a full season of racing.

In late July, Edgartown Race Week features round-the-buoys racing on Nantucket Sound. The regatta draws professional racing crews and top amateur sailors. It ends with a fiftyfour-mile race around the Island. In mid-August, the club hosts a 12-Meter regatta, which draws many of the famed America’s Cup vessels from years ago.

Moorings and limited dockage are

PA D D L E U P Kayaks, canoes, stand-up paddleboards (SUPs), small sailboats, and sailboards are available for rent at Wind’s Up (windsupmv.com) in Vineyard Haven. Island Spirit Kayak (islandspiritkayak.com) has kayaks and SUPs for rent at their Oak Bluffs location at the Little Bridge on Sengekontacket Pond. They give guided tours and hold themed events, including the annual Oar and Paddle Regatta in Au-

Still further east is Edgartown, a

available in the inner harbor. The online

postcard-perfect harbor that hosts some

reservation system (edgartownharbor.

of the world’s finest sailing and power

com) opens in mid-February, and the

craft during the season. It is also home

popular dates sell out fast. The outer

skis, banana boats, motorboats, and even

to the private Edgartown Yacht Club,

harbor has free anchorage.

get you parasailing.

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gust. Martha’s Vineyard Ocean Sports (mvoceansports.com) in Oak Bluffs can set you up on personal watercraft, water

OUTSIDE

Sports

FISH AND SHIPS You’re on an Island, surrounded (and punctuated by) water. Why not get out on it? You don’t have to be a pro to sign up for a fishing charter or a sailing excursion; just be game for some fun. Or opt to explore one of the Island’s ponds by renting a kayak or small boat.

If you’d like to see the Island from the deck of a sailboat, check out Mad Max Sailing Adventures (madmaxmarina.com) in Edgartown. It offers daily sails and private charters aboard its sixty-foot catamaran. Or take a sail on the classic fifty-six-foot yawl

Magic Carpet out of Edgartown Harbor (sailmagiccarpet.com). Catboat Charters (catboatcharters.com) will take you for a two-hour cruise on Katama Bay or for a private charter. Accommodating up to fifteen passengers, Steady as She Goes Charters (steadyasshegoescharters.com) offers threeto five-hour tours, full-day destination trips, and private dinners.

To catch the big one, opt for one of many fishing charters available on Island.

The captains and shore guides of Coop’s Bait & Tackle Charters (coopsbaitandtackle.com) know where the best spots are; you’re sure to have a successful trip.

Other options include Beamish Charters (beamishcharters.com) and North Shore Charters (bassnblue.com) in Menemsha; Fishstick Charters (fishstickcharters.

Lisa Vanderhoop

Captain Buddy Vanderhoop (in suspenders, above) with a group of happy charter customers.

com), which offers fly-fishing; and Done

day on the water with Vanderhoop is always

Deal Charters (donedealcharters.com)

exciting and productive, which is why he’s

both out of Vineyard Haven.

popular with visiting celebrities; his list of

You could also sign up with the renowned Buddy Vanderhoop of Tomahawk Charters (tomahawkcharters.com). His motto is “Bass is Our Business” and he means business. A

customers includes Keith Richards, Spike Lee, Taj Mahal, and Ted Danson.

Vanderhoop hosts whale watching trips and big-game sport fishing charters too.

S P E N D A M O R N I N G or afternoon on the party

Mark Alan Lovewell

BEST FISHING CHARTER

boat Skipper (mvskipper.com). With more than forty years of experience fishing Vineyard waters, it’s no wonder Captain John Potter has the Island’s most popular charter. Daily sailings are a fun way for kids to get a taste of fishing; private party trips are an option too. The Skipper sails out of Oak Bluffs.

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OUTSIDE

Sports

RIDE SHARE Yes, you can go horseback riding on the Vineyard: Misty Meadows Equine Learning Center (mistymeadowsmv. org) is a West Tisbury teaching center dedicated to building not just riding skills but life skills. Lessons are available at Arrowhead Farm (arrowheadfarm.net) and at Pond View Farm (facebook.com/ pondviewfarmmv), both in West Tisbury.

Tim Johnson

The course at Farm Neck offers views of Sengekontacket Pond.

G O L F, O F C O U R S E Mink Meadows Golf Club (minkmeadowsgc.com) was designed in 1936 by renowned golf-course architect Wayne Stiles. This semiprivate facility in Vineyard Haven offers rolling terrain with ocean views, and golfers can play it as a nine-hole or eighteen-hole game. Reserve

S. Lee, offers members and guests expansive views of Nantucket Sound. The club is open year-round. The Vineyard Golf Club (vineyardgolf.com) is the Island’s newest course but doesn’t have new memberships open at this time.

For a fun outing, don’t miss the Royal and Ancient Chappaquiddick Links (royalchappy.com) in season.

Ivy Ashe

a tee time up to two days in advance year-round.

Farm Neck Golf Club (farmneck. net), located in Oak Bluffs, holds a reputation for championship caliber golf, and both Bill Clinton and Barack Obama have played there frequently.

The course, designed in 1979 by Geoffrey Cornish, Bill Robinson, and Patrick Mulligan, includes woodlands, open meadows, salt marshes, and beautiful views of Sengekontacket Pond. After playing the course, enjoy a meal or a drink at Farm Neck Café. Farm Neck is open from May to December.

Edgartown Golf Club (edgartowngolfclub.com), founded in 1926 by Cornelius 102

S K AT E , B OW L, P U T T The Martha’s Vineyard Skate Park (mvskatepark.org) in Oak Bluffs is open 8 a.m. to sunset daily, year-round. The Barn, Bowl & Bistro (thebarnmv.com) in Oak Bluffs has ten fully automated bowling lanes, a café, bar, Ping-Pong, and more. Reserve a lane ahead. A disc golf course is located off Barnes Road in Edgartown. The course is DIY, so bring what you need. The Cove Golf & Grill (covemv.com) in Vineyard Haven is the place for mini-golf – and a snack or ice cream cone afterwards.

ISLAND GUIDE 2022

OUTSIDE

Sports

ON THE COURT Public tennis courts are available in four towns on the Vineyard. Oak Bluffs courts (oakbluffsma.gov) are located on Niantic Avenue. Edgartown courts (edgartownma.us) are located on Robinson Road.

Vineyard Haven (tisburyma.gov) has public courts on Lake Street and on Church Street. During the summer, courts at the West Tisbury School are open to the public (westtisbury-ma.gov). Each court has a different fee structure.

You can also reserve a court at Vineyard Family Tennis (vineyardfamilytennis. org) when children’s lessons are not in session. (Courts are indoors.) Farm Neck Golf Club (farmneck.net) in Oak Bluffs has six outdoor courts open to the public.

Tim Johnson

DO A WHEELIE Riding a bike is a great way to see Martha’s Vineyard ­­– and to get some

trails all over the Island. Chappaquiddick is a great destination for long rides.

There are bike rental companies in all down-Island towns. In Edgartown,

Mark Alan Lovewell

BEST FITNESS CENTER

Wheel Happy (wheelhappybicycles.

AT T H E Y M C A

com) will deliver a state-of-the-art bike

Missing your fitness routine? Pick it right

anywhere on the Island. Edgartown

back up at the YMCA of Martha’s Vine-

Bicycles (edgartownbicycles.com) won

yard (ymcamv.org). Spacious, bright,

Best Bike Rental shop for 2021 in the

and welcoming, the YMCA is open seven

Best of the Vineyard awards. Martha’s

days a week on the Edgartown–Vineyard

Vineyard Bike Rentals (marthas-

Haven Road. You’ll find more than

vineyardbike.com) is popular too. In

seventy classes for all ages and fitness

Vineyard Haven, Martha’s Bike and

levels (preregistration required). There’s

sister business Vineyard Bike Rental

a six-lane competitive lap pool and a

(vineyardbikerental.com) are located at

rules. For a quieter ride, check out the

recreational pool. Exercise equipment

Five Corners and Lagoon Pond Road.

includes free weights, circuit-training

ten-mile bike path in the state forest.

In Oak Bluffs, Anderson’s Bike Rentals

machines, and cardio equipment. A

(andersonsbikerentals.com) has been

basketball court and children’s play area

renting bikes since 1971.

are outside. Inside, find a weekday cafe.

serious exercise if you tackle the hills upIsland. If you ride up-Island, leave time to return before the sun sets as there are no street lights. Tip: take the bike ferry from the fishing village of Menemsha to Aquinnah and the Gay Head Cliffs.

Down-Island, roads are flatter and towns are close enough together that you can bike from one to the other. These routes combine bike paths and road travel where you’ll have to obey traffic

Off-road bikers will love tackling the network of bumpy, hilly, and beautiful

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BRIGHT LIGHTS One Island, five lighthouses.

G AY H E A D L I G H T Gay Head Cliffs, Aquinnah, off Lighthouse Road W H E N T O V I S I T : Lighthouse Park is open daily, Memorial Day through early

They’ve guided mariners since the age of sail, through the whaling era, and in times of war and peace. The five lighthouses of Martha’s Vineyard have been rebuilt, moved, manned, unmanned, oil lit, and automated. It hasn’t been an easy couple of centuries. And yet they still shine.

October. For information on touring the interior, visit gayheadlight.org.

H I S T O RY: The original Gay Head Light was the first lighthouse built on Martha’s Vineyard, commissioned by President John Adams in 1799. The need was urgent: extending westward from the Gay Head Cliffs to the island of Cuttyhunk, a ledge nicknamed Devil’s Bridge by mariners was the unfortunate site of many shipwrecks.

Ship traffic continued to be heavy on Vineyard Sound through the next century, prompting the replacement of the original light with a French-built Fresnel lens with 1,008 prisms, which required a new brick structure for the lighthouse to support it.

Even with the lens, one of the worst New England shipwrecks (of the steamer City of Columbus) occurred here in 1884.

The cliffs and the lighthouse became a tourist destination. Wampanoags met tourists disembarking from steamers with handmade crafts, a tradition that became the precursor to small businesses that still draw people to Aquinnah and the cliffs today.

The Fresnel lens was replaced in 1952 with an automated electric beacon, and the lighthouse, after a monumental fundraising effort, was moved back 129 feet in 2015 to a safer location behind the eroding cliffs. (The lens is now on permanent display at the Martha’s Vineyard Museum in Vineyard Haven.)

Today you can visit the Gay Head Light grounds any time of year. Tours will begin again this summer. For schedules and more information, visit gayheadlight.org.

Peter Simon

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EAST CHOP LIGHT 220 East Chop Avenue, Oak Bluffs W H E N T O V I S I T : You can visit the grounds of the lighthouse anytime, but the lighthouse itself is not currently open to the public due to renovations. For more information, visit mvmuseum.org.

H I S T O RY: The first East Chop Light was built by Captain Silas Daggett in 1871, who served as keeper until 1875 when the government agreed to buy it from him for $3,500. The cast iron structure that stands today was built in 1878, the last lighthouse to be erected Tim Johnson

on the Island.

EDGARTOWN LIGHT 121 North Water Street, Edgartown W H E N T O V I S I T : The lighthouse is open weekends in June, daily June 27 to September 5, and weekends Labor Day through Indigenous Peoples’ Day. Visit mvmuseum.org for hours and prices.

H I S T O RY: The first Edgartown Lighthouse was built in 1828 on a small, manmade island at the entrance to Edgartown Harbor. It was severely damaged in the hurricane of 1938, then replaced by a lighthouse from Ipswich, which was dismantled and barged to Edgartown Mark Alan Lovewell

in 1939. After renovations in 2007, the lighthouse opened to visitors.

WEST CHOP LIGHT West Chop Road, Vineyard Haven W H E N T O V I S I T : West Chop Light is not open to the public; you can view the structure and vista from the road.

H I S T O RY: The first West Chop Light was built in 1817; the current white-painted tower, built in 1891, is the third. Over the years, housing for lightkeepers was also built, moved, and remodeled. The last lighthouse to become automated (in 1976), the photogenic West Chop Light is now owned and managed (and sometimes occupied by) Tim Johnson

the U.S. Coast Guard.

CAPE POGUE LIGHT Cape Pogue Wildlife Refuge, Chappaquiddick W H E N T O V I S I T : Open daily in season; accessible by a 3.5 mile hike, a four-wheel-drive vehicle, or by guided tour (fees apply).

H I S T O RY: The original 1801 tower on the tip of Cape Pogue was the second lighthouse built on the Vineyard, but it has been replaced and moved many times due to erosion. The current structure, built in 1893, was last moved in 1987 – the first to be transported by helicopter. The Trustees of Reservations offers guided tours. For more Peter Simon

information visit thetrustees.org.

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HAPPENINGS

Bookmark This!

S AV E T H E D AT E

Top Events for Summer 2022 on the Vineyard May through September T H E V I N E YA R D ’ S D R I V E - I N 91 Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road, Oak Bluffs. driveinmv.com Fridays, June 3; July 1; August 5; September 2 & October 7 | 4 to 11 p.m.

F I R S T F R I DAY V I N E YA R D H AV E N Main Street & Owen Park, Vineyard Haven. firstfridayvh.com Tuesday, June 7 | 6:35 p.m.

M .V. S H A R K S O P E N I N G DAY The Shark Tank, 100 Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road, Oak Bluffs. Prices vary.

Ray Ewing

2022 marks the twentieth season for The Martha's Vineyard African American Film Festival.

Winnetu Oceanside Resort, 31 Dunes

Friday, August 5 to Saturday, August 13

Road, Edgartown. Free.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D A F R I C A N

vineyardgazette.com

mvsharks.com Wednesday, June 15 | 6 to 10 p.m.

Thursday, June 23 to Sunday, June 26 F I L M U S I C F E S T I VA L

B E S T O F T H E V I N E YA R D PA R T Y

Martha’s Vineyard Film Center, 79 Beach

Farm Neck Golf Club, 1 Farm Neck Way,

Road, Vineyard Haven. Prices vary.

Oak Bluffs. $50.

mvfilmsociety.com

mvmagazine.com.

Sundays, June 12 to September 25 &

Mondays in July & August | Times vary M U S I C A L M O N DAYS

Thursdays, July 7 to August 25 | 10 a.m.

Featherstone Center for the Arts, 30

to 2 p.m.

Featherstone Lane, Oak Bluffs. $20.

V I N E YA R D A R T I S A N S S U M M E R

featherstoneart.org

F E S T I VA L S Grange Hall, 1067 State Road, West

Thursdays in July & August | 7:30 p.m.

Tisbury.

SUMMER INSTITUTE SPEAKER

vineyardartisans.com

SERIES Martha’s Vineyard Hebrew Center, 130

Friday, June 17 through Sunday, June 19

Center Street, Vineyard Haven.

JUNETEENTH JUBILEE

mvsummerinstitute.org

Edgartown, Oak Bluffs + Vineyard Haven.

Various price points based on the event.

Monday, July 4 | 5 p.m. for parade and 9

vineyardgazette.com

p.m. for fireworks

Sunday, June 19 | 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.

WORKS

CAR-B-Q CLASSIC

Downtown Edgartown. Free.

4T H O F J U LY PA R A D E & F I R E -

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

A M E R I C A N F I L M F E S T I VA L Performing Arts Center, 100 EdgartownVineyard Haven Road, Oak Bluffs. Prices vary. mvaaff.com Thursday, August 11 to Saturday, August 13 & Saturday, August 20 to Monday, August 22 | 8 p.m.

B U I LT O N S T I LT S Union Chapel, 55 Narragansett Avenue, Oak Bluffs. Donations. builtonstilts.org Friday, August 26 to Sunday, August 28 B E AC H R OA D W E E K E N D Veterans Memorial Park, Lagoon Pond Road, Vineyard Haven. Prices vary. beachroadweekend.com E V E N T S M V.C O M Check the Vineyard Gazette calendar online (eventsmv.com) for a complete listing of Island events. The calendar is updated regularly and includes classes, concerts, festivals, kids’ activities and more.

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HAPPENINGS

Fair & Fireworks Week

T H AT W E E K I N A U G U S T

I L L U M I N AT I O N NIGHT

Though exciting events happen all season on the Vineyard, a trifecta during the third week of August makes it the most highly anticipated all summer.

Plan accordingly to enjoy them all; it’s well worth it.

W E D N E S DAY, A U G U S T 1 7 This year’s Grand Illumination Night at the Camp Ground in Oak Bluffs celebrates 153 years of the annual tradition. Although the past two summers have seen smaller versions, this year’s event plans to be back on track with a community sing at the Tabernacle (7:30 p.m.) before the lighting of hundreds of Chinese lanterns hung on cottages as the sun sets. For more information, visit mvcma.org.

A G R I C U LT U R A L FA I R

T H U R S DAY, A U G U S T 1 8 T O S U N DAY, A U G U S T 2 2 The Martha’s Vineyard Livestock Show and Fair in West Tisbury, which began as a one-day exhibition showcasing livestock 160 years ago, has grown into a four-day affair with live music, demonstrations, tasty fair food, rides and more. For more information, visit marthasvineyardagriculturalsociety.org

OAK BLUFFS FIREWORKS F R I DAY, A U G U S T 1 9 Good news, the Oak Bluffs Fireworks are making a comeback this summer after a two-year hiatus! Once again, the night sky above Ocean Park in Oak Bluffs will light up with colorful fireworks of all sizes. As in years past, the park will fill up early with eager attendees. Grab some takeout from your favorite OB restaurant, hang out, and enjoy the Vineyard Haven Band (starting at 8 p.m.) before the fireworks Joshua Robinson-White

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

begin at 9 p.m.

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Elizabeth Cecil

Martha’s Vineyard

HOTEL & RESTAURANT GUIDE P L A C E S T O S TAY A N D E AT

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A C C O M M O D AT I O N S AQUINNAH + CHILMARK The Beach Plum: 50 Beach Plum Lane, Menemsha · 508-645-9454 · beachpluminn.com The Captain R. Flanders House: 440 North Road, Chilmark · 508-645-3123 captainflandersinn.com The Duck Inn: 10 Duck Pond Way, Aquinnah 508-645-9018 · duckinnonmv.com Menemsha Inn & Cottages: 12 Menemsha Inn Road, Menemsha · 508-645-2521 menemshainn.com

Winnetu Oceanside Resort: 31 Dunes Road, Edgartown · 508-627-4747 · winnetu.com

Mansion House: 9 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-2200 · mvmansionhouse.com

OAK BLUFFS

Martha’s Vineyard Family Campground: 569 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-3772 · campmv.com

The Attleboro House: 42 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4346 · attleborohousemv.com The Beach Front Inn: 65 Seaview Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-5148 beachfrontinnmv.com Dockside Inn: 9 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2966 · vineyardinns.com East Chop Harborfront Apartments: 47 East Chop Drive, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-0009 eastchopharborfront.com

EDGARTOWN

Inkwell Beach House: 83 Seaview Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-3955 · inkwellbeach.com

Ashley Inn: 129 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-9655 · ashleyinn.net

The Island Inn: 30 Island Inn Road, Oak Bluffs 508-693-2002 · islandinn.com

Captain Morse House: 80 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4895 captainmorsehouse.com

Kathleen’s Kottage: 59 Naushon Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-863-2734 · kkonmv.com

The Charlotte Inn: 27 South Summer Street, Edgartown · 506-627-4751 · thecharlotteinn.com The Christopher: 24 South Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4784 thechristophermv.com Edgar Hotel: 227 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-5161 edgarhotelmv.com Edgartown Commons: 20 Peases Point Way North, Edgartown · 508-627-4671 edgartowncommons.com The Edgartown Inn: 56 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-939-4005 theedgartowninn.com The Franklin Hotel: 222 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-379-2100 franklinhotelmv.com The Harborside Inn: 3 South Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4321 theharborsideinn.com Harbor View Hotel: 131 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-7000 harborviewhotel.com Hob Knob Luxury Boutique Hotel & Spa: 128 Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-9510 hobknob.com Kelley House (under renovation): 23 Kelley Street, Edgartown · 508-627-7900 · kelleyhouse.com

Madison Inn: 18 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2760 · madisoninnmv.com Morgan Hotel: 9 David Healy Way, Oak Bluffs 508-338-2804 · morganhotelmv.com Narragansett House: 46 Narragansett Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-3627 narragansetthouse.com The Oak Bluffs Inn: 64 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-7171 · oakbluffsinn.com Pequot Hotel: 19 Pequot Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-5087 · pequothotel.com

The Broad Meadow Bed & Breakfast: 74 Elias Lane, West Tisbury · 508-693-3584 mvbroadmeadowbnb.com Cleaveland House B&B: 620 Edgartown– West Tisbury Road, West Tisbury 508-693-9352 · cynthiariggs.com/ cleavelandhouse Jade House Bed & Breakfast: 1 Rustling Oaks Road, West Tisbury · 914-391-9025 jadehousebnb.com Lambert’s Cove Hideaway: 24 Black Brook Crossing, West Tisbury · 800-696-8633 lambertscovehideaway.com Lambert’s Cove Inn & Resort: 90 Manaquayak Road, West Tisbury 800-535-0272 · lambertscoveinn.com

The Surfside Hotel: 7 Oak Bluffs Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2500 · mvsurfside.com

AQUINNAH + CHILMARK

Titticut Follies: 37 Narragansett Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4986 · titticutfollies.com Tivoli Inn: 125 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-7928 · tivoliinn.com

V I N E YA R D H AV E N Charles & Charles: 85 Summer Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-338-2351 charlesandcharlesmv.com Crocker Inn: 12 Crocker Avenue, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-1151 · crockerhouseinn.com The Driftwood: 76 Leonard Circle, Vineyard Haven · 860-930-0233 · thedriftwoodmv.com

The Richard: 104 Main Street, Edgartown 774-310-1055 · therichardhotel.com

Greenwood House: 40 Greenwood Avenue, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6150 greenwoodhouse.com

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R E S TA U R A N T S , SNACKS & CAFES

Fourway Carriage House: 95 Franklin Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-696-8487 fourwaymv.com

Vineyard Square Hotel & Suites: 38 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4711 vineyardsquarehotel.com

Vineyard Harbor Motel: 60 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-3334 vineyardharbormotel.us

Summercamp: 70 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-6611 · summercamphotel.com

The Lightkeeper’s Inn: 25 Simpson’s Lane, Edgartown · 508-627-4600 thelightkeepersinn.com

The Sydney: 22 Winter Street, Edgartown 508-939-9299 · thesydneyhotel.com

Nobnocket Boutique Inn: 60 Mount Aldworth Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-696-0859 nobnocket.com

Harbor Landing: 15 Beach Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-2600 · harbor-landing.com The Look Inn: 25 Look Street, Vineyard Haven 508-693-6893 · lookinnmv.com ISLAND GUIDE 2022

The Aquinnah Shop Restaurant: 27 Aquinnah Circle, Aquinnah · 508-645-3867 theaquinnahshop.com The Beach Plum: 50 Beach Plum Lane, Menemsha · 508-645-9454 · beachpluminn.com Chilmark General Store: 7 State Road, Chilmark · 508-645-3739 chilmarkgeneralstore.com Chilmark Tavern: 9 State Road, Chilmark 508-645-9400 · chilmarktavern.com Cliffhangers: 21 Aquinnah Circle, Aquinnah 508-955-9163 · facebook.com/cliffhangersaq Menemsha Deli: 24 Basin Road, Menemsha 508-955-9471 · menemshadeli.com Menemsha Galley: 515 North Road, Menemsha · 508-645-9819 · menemshagalley.com Orange Peel Bakery: 682 State Road, Aquinnah 508-645-2025 · orangepeelbakery.squarespace.com Orange Peel Bakery Café: 33 Aquinnah Circle, Aquinnah Outermost Inn and Restaurant: 81 Lighthouse Road, Aquinnah 508-645-3511 · outermostinn.com

EDGARTOWN

Chesca’s Restaurant: 38 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-1234 · chescasmv.com

19 Prime Cast Iron Steakhouse: 19 Church Street, Edgartown · 774-224-0550 19primesteak.com

Dairy Queen: 242 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-5001

19 Raw Oyster Bar: 19 Church Street, Edgartown · 774-224-0550 19rawoysterbar.com

Depot Market: 141 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-669-7733 facebook.com/DepotMV

A Slice of Edgartown: 22 Dock Street, Edgartown · 508-627-7641

Détente: 15 Winter Street, Edgartown 508-627-8810 · detentemv.com

Alchemy: 71 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-9999 · alchemyedgartown.com

Dip02539: 241 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown · 508-627-7725 facebook.com/dip02539

Among the Flowers: 17 Mayhew Lane, Edgartown · 508-627-3233 amongtheflowersmv.com Atlantic: 2 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-7001 · atlanticmv.com Atria & Café Atria: 137 Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-5850 · atriamv.com Behind the Bookstore: 46 Main Street, Edgartown · 774-549-9123 · btbmv.com Bettini Restaurant: 131 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-3761 · harborviewhotel.com Black Sheep: 17 Airport Road, Edgartown 508-338-7770 · blacksheeponmv.com China House: 234 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-7272 mvchinahouse.com The Covington: 52 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-7678 · thecovingtonrestaurant.com

508-693-0055 · thefishhousemv.com Great Harbor Market: 199 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-694-6888 greatharbormarket.com The Ice Cream & Candy Bazaar: 5 Dock Street, Edgartown · 508-627-8735 Katama General Store: 170 Katama Road, Edgartown · 508-627-5071 katamageneral.com

Dock Street Coffee Shop: 2 Dock Street, Edgartown · 508-627-5232 dock-street-coffee-shop.square.site

Katama Kitchen: 12 Mattakesett Way, Edgartown · 508-939-4064 · katamakitchen.com L’étoile: 22 North Water Street, Edgartown 508-627-5187 · letoile.net Little House Bakery: 7 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-687-9794 · littlehousemv.com

The Dunes: 31 Dunes Road, Edgartown 508-627-4747 · winnetu.com Edgartown Diner: 65 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-9337 · edgartowndinermv.com Edgartown Meat & Fish Market: 240 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown · 508-627-6200 edgartownmeatandfish.com

Lucky Hank’s Restaurant & Café: 218 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-939-4082 luckyhanksmv.com MacPhail’s Corner Café: 18 Dock Street, Edgartown · 508-939-3090 Mad Martha’s: 7 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-8761· madmarthas.com

Edgartown Pizza: 224 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown · 508-627-7770 edgartownpizza.com Espresso Love: 17 Church Street, Edgartown 508-627-9211 · espressolove.com The Fish House: 17 Airport Road, Edgartown

Murdick’s Café: 19 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-7605 · murdicks.com/cafe Murdick’s Fudge: 21 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-8047 · murdicks.com The Newes from America (under renovation): 23 Kelley Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4397 thenewesfromamerica.com

Martha’s Vineyard Magazine

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The Port Hunter: 55 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-7747 · theporthunter.com

Avenue Ext., Unit 3, Oak Bluffs · 508-338-2037 theblackdog.com

Murdick’s Fudge: 5 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2335 · murdicks.com

Quarterdeck: 29 Dock Street, Edgartown 508-627-5346 · facebook.com/QuarterdeckEDG

The Cardboard Box: 6 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-338-2621 · thecardboardbox.com

MV Salads: 55 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-338-7754 · mvsalads.com

Rockfish: 11 North Water Street, Edgartown 508-627-9967 · rockfishedgartown.com

Carousel Ice Cream Factory: 15 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-8614

Nancy’s Restaurant: 29 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-0006 · nancysrestaurant.com

Rosewater Market & Take Away: 20 South Summer Street, Edgartown · 508-627-1270 rosewatertakeaway.com

Coop deVille & Shuck Shack: 12 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-693-3420 coopdevilleshuckshack.com

Nauti Cow MV: 28 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs Facebook: Nauti Cow MV

The Scoop Shack: 22 Dock Street, Edgartown 508-627-7829

The Corner Kitchen: 24 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-1470

New Moon Magick – Enchanted Chocolates: 4 Chapman Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-8331 · enchantedchocolates.net

The Seafood Shanty: 31 Dock Street, Edgartown · 508-627-8622 theseafoodshanty.com

Deon’s Kitchen: 14 Towanticut Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-627-0330 · chefdeon.com

Nomans: 15 Island Inn Road, Oak Bluffs 508-338-2474 · nomansmv.com

Dilly’s Taqueria: 4 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-5891 · dillystaqueria.com

Ocean View Restaurant and Tavern (under renovation): 16 Chapman Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-2207 · oceanviewrestaurantmv.com

Sharky’s Cantina: 266 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-6565 · sharkmenu.com Soigne: 190 Upper Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-8489 · soignemv.com The Square Rigger: 225 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown · 508-627-9968 squareriggerrestaurant.com The Terrace (reopening late summer): 27 South Summer Street, Edgartown 508-627-6227 · theterracemv.com Toccopuro Coffee: 3 South Water Street, Edgartown · 774-549-9351 Town Bar & Grill: 227 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 774-310-8696 · townbarmv.com

Dos Mas: 50 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-687-9271 · dosmasmv.com Farm Neck Café: 1 Farm Neck Way, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-3560 · farmneck.net/cafe Fat Ronnie’s Burger Bar: 7 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-6600 fatronniesburgerbar.com Fishbones Bar & Grille: 12 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-696-8227 fishbones-mv.com Flavors MV: 11 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-338-7401 · flavorsmvy.com

Offshore Ale Co.: 30 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2626 · offshoreale.com The Oyster Bar 02557: 6 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 774-563-3046 · oysterbar02557.com The Pawnee House: 20 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-338-2770 thepawneehousemv.com Portuguese-American Club: 137 Vineyard Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-9875 holyghostassociation.com Red Cat Kitchen: 14 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-6040 · redcatkitchen.com

Tropical Bakery: 266 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-3773

The Food Truck: 91 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road, Oak Bluffs · 508-560-5883 facebook.com/thefoodtruckmv

The Ritz Café: 4 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-9851 · theritzmv.com

The Wharf: 3 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-9966 · wharfpubmv.com

Giordano’s Restaurant: 18 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-0184 · giosmv.com

Rosie’s Frozen Yogurt: 19 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-687-0031 · rosiesofmv.com

Wolf’s Den Pizzeria: 249 Edgartown– Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown 508-627-9994 · wolfsdenmv.com

Jimmy Seas Pan Pasta: 32 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-687-9804 jimmyseaspanpastas.com

Sand Bar: 6 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs 508-693-7111 · mvsandbar.com

Vineyard Scoops: 56 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-4736

Juice By the Sea: 7 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 781-385-0997 · juicebytheseamv.com

OAK BLUFFS Aalia’s Coffee: 16 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 716-861-7357 · aaliascoffee.com The Alley: 24 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs instagram.com/thealleymv Back Door Donuts: 5 Post Office Square, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-3688 · backdoordonuts.com Bangkok Cuisine: 67 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-6322 bangkokcapecod.com The Barn, Bowl & Bistro: 13 Uncas Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-9800 · thebarnmv.com Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium: 20A Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-0008 benandbillsmv.com Big Dipper Ice Cream & Café: 23 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4845 Biscuits: 26 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-2033 · mvbiscuits.com The Black Dog Dockside Café: 12 Circuit 114

Linda Jean’s Restaurant: 25 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4093 lindajeansrestaurantmv.com Lobsterville Bar and Grille: 8 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-696-0099 lobstervillemv.com Lookout Tavern: 8 Sea View Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-696-9844 · lookoutmv.com Mad Martha’s: 12 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-9151 · madmarthas.com Martha’s Vineyard Chowder Co.: 9 Oak Bluffs Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-3000 mvchowder.com Midnight Train Food Truck: 27 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-560-3222 facebook.com/midnighttrainMV Mister Pugg’s Mugg: 49 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-6368 Mocha Mott’s: 10 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-696-1922 · mochamotts.com Mo’s Lunch: 137 Vineyard Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-687-9744 · moslunch.com ISLAND GUIDE 2022

Sarah Brown’s Comfort Food (at Linda Jean's Restaurant): 25 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 516-526-3943 · sarahbrownsmv.com Sea Smoke Barbecue: 7 Oakland Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-338-7404 · seasmokemv.com Sharky’s Cantina: 31 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-7501 · sharkmenu.com Stella Salumeria: 6 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-246-9535 facebook.com/stellasalumeria The Sweet Life: 63 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-696-0200 · sweetlifemv.com The Sweet Spot: 12 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-687-2031 TigerHawk Sandwich Co.: 12B Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-338-7306 tigerhawkmv.com Toccopuro Coffee: 45 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-338-2463 Tony’s Market: 119 Dukes County Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4799 tonysmarketmv.com Vineyard’s Best Ice Cream & Coffee: 12 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs 617-775-6019 · vineyardbest.com

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Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-338-7836 goldenbullmv.com Island Fresh Pizza & Subs: 395 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-338-2764 islandfreshpizza.com La Choza Burritos: 4 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-9050 · lachozamv.com

Mark Alan Lovewell

Vineyard Caribbean Cuisine: 7 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-338-7077 Facebook: Vineyard Caribbean Cuisine

Life at Humphreys: 455 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6518 lifeathumphreys.com

FISH MARKETS

Little House Café: 339 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-687-9794 · littlehousemv.com

Y Cafe: 111R Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-7171 · ymcamv.org

Mikado Asian Bistro: 76 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-338-7096 mikadomv.com

V I N E YA R D H AV E N

Mocha Mott’s: 15 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-3155 · mochamotts.com

Behind the Bookstore: 18 Beach Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-687-9972 · btbmv.com The Black Dog Bakery Café: 509 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-696-8190 theblackdog.com The Black Dog Tavern: 20 Beach Street Ext., Vineyard Haven · 508-693-9223 · theblackdog.com The Black Dog Water Street Bakery: 11 Water Street, Vineyard Haven 508-693-4786 · theblackdog.com Blissed Out: 13 Union Street, Vineyard Haven 508-338-2938 · blissedoutmv.com Bobby B’s Restaurant: 22 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-8266 bobbybsmv.com Chef Amy’s Food Truck: 61 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven 508-857-8783 chefamysfoodtruck.business.site Copper Wok: 9 Main Street, Vineyard Haven 508-693-3416 · copperwokmv.com The Cove Golf & Grill: 386 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-2611 covemv.com

Vineyard Take Out: 479 State Road, West Tisbury · 508-693-6924 facebook.com/vineyardtakeout Woods: 90 Manaquayak Road, West Tisbury 800-535-0272 · lambertscoveinn.com

Mad Martha’s: 24 Union Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-5883 · madmarthas.com

Beach Road: 79 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven 508-693-8582 · beachroadmv.com

State Road: 688 State Road, West Tisbury 508-693-8582 · stateroadrestaurant.com

La Soffitta: 82 Main Street, Vineyard Haven 508-687-9448 · lasoffitta.com

Winston’s Kitchen: 1 East Chop Drive, Oak Bluffs · 508-687-9572 · winstonskitchenmv.com

The ArtCliff Diner (under renovation): 38 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-1224 artcliffdiner.com

508-693-1886 · facebook.com/PVMV1999

Murdick’s Fudge: 79 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-7344 · murdicks.com Nat’s Nook: 38 Main Street, Vineyard Haven 508-338-2340 · natsnookmv.com The Net Result: 79 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6071 · mvseafood.com

Edgartown Meat & Fish Market: 240 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown 508-627-6200 · edgartownmeatandfish.com Edgartown Seafood: 138 Cooke Street, Edgartown · 508-627-3791 edgartownseafood.com The Fish House: 17 Airport Road, Edgartown 508-693-0055 · thefishhousemv.com John’s Fish Market/Sandy’s Fish & Chips: 5 Martin Road, Vineyard Haven 508-693-1220 · johnsfishmarket.com Larsen’s Fish Market: 56 Basin Road, Menemsha · 508-645-2680 larsensfishmarket.com

Pie Chicks Bakery: 395 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-0228 · piechicks.com

Menemsha Fish Market: 54 Basin Road, Menemsha · 508-645-2282 menemshafishmarket.com

Porto Pizza: 36 Water Street, Vineyard Haven 508-693-6200 · portopizza-mv.com

The Net Result: 79 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6071 · mvseafood.com

Rocco’s Pizzeria: 79 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-1125 marthasvineyardpizza.com S & S Kitchenette: 48 Main Street, Vineyard Haven Salvatore’s Ristorante: 20 Union Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-687-9457 salvatoresristorante.com

GROCERY STORES Ackee Tree Caribbean Grocer: 25 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-338-2521 Alley’s General Store: 1045 State Road, West Tisbury · 508-693-0088

Scottish Bakehouse: 977 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6633 scottishbakehousemv.com

Cash & Carry: 475 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-7708 vccfoods.net

Sweet Bites: 32 Beach Street, Vineyard Haven 508-684-8257 · sweetbitesmv.com

Cronig’s Market: 357 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-4457 · cronigsmarket.com

Tisberry Frozen Yogurt: 29 Main Street, Unit C2, Vineyard Haven · 508-687-9314 tisberrymv.com

Cronig’s Market: 469 State Road, West Tisbury · 508-693-2234 · cronigsmarket.com

Waterside Market: 82 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-8899 · watersidemarket.com

Cumberland Farms: 9 Lagoon Pond Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-8729

Wolf’s Den Pizzeria: 45 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-687-9112 · wolfsdenmv.com

The Larder: 342 State Road, Vineyard Haven 508-687-9641

First Light Café: 151 Lagoon Pond Road, Vineyard Haven · mvmuseum.org

Woodland Variety & Grill: 455 State Road, No. 4, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6795 woodlandvarietyandgrill.com

Reliable Market: 36 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-1102 · thereliablemarket.com

Fish MV: 80 Main Street, Vineyard Haven 508-693-6399 · fishmv.com

W E ST T I S B U RY

Garde East: 52 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven 508-687-9926 · gardeeast.com

7a Foods: 1045 State Road, West Tisbury 508-693-4636 · 7afoods.com

Golden Bull Brazilian Steakhouse: 13 Beach

Plane View: 139 Airport Road, West Tisbury

Delicious MV: 22 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-2223 · deliciousmv.com El Gato Grande: 508-560-2331 elgatograndemv.com

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Stop & Shop: 225 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-9522 · stopandshop.com Stop & Shop: 50 Water Street, Vineyard Haven 508-693-8339 · stopandshop.com Vineyard Grocer: 294 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-2000 · vineyardgrocer.com

THIRSTY ISLAND

From craft beer to small-batch bourbon–how to source your spirits on the Vineyard.

W E ’ R E S E R I O U S about beer

on the Island. Sip a Martha’s Vineyard Ale one summer afternoon on the patio at Bad Martha Farmer’s Brewery in Edgartown, or drop by Offshore Ale Co. in Oak Bluffs for an East Chop Lighthouse. Or shop for one of Wash Ashore’s hoppy organic beers. If you need help finding a good wine, visit M.V. Wine & Spirits or Our Market.

Need groceries and wine? Stop at Tony’s Market. But plan ahead and shop while in Edgartown or Oak Bluffs. Vineyard Haven, West

W I N E A N D PA C K A G E S T O R E S EDGARTOWN Al’s Package Store: 258 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4347 Edgartown Meat & Fish Market: 240 Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown 508-627-6200 · edgartownmeatandfish.com Katama General Store: 170 Katama Road, Edgartown · 508-627-5071 · katamageneral.com M.V. Wine & Spirits: 17A Airport Road, Edgartown · 508-627-7557 · mvwinestore.com Rosewater Wine & Spirits: 65 Main Street, Edgartown · 508-939-4459 rosewatertakeaway.com Soigne: 190 Upper Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-8489 · soignemv.com Vintage M.V. Wine & Spirits: 29 Winter Street, Edgartown · 774-549-9287 vintagemvwine-spirits.com

Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah

Wharf Wine & Spirits: 8 Mayhew Lane, Edgartown · 508-627-5183

don’t have liquor stores.

Your Market: 249 Edgartown–Vineyard

W E L C O M E T O M A R T H A S V I N E YA R D . C O M

Haven Road, Edgartown · 508-627-4000 yourmarketmv.com

OA K B L U F F S Jim’s Package Store & Island Market: 27 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-0236 jimspackagestore.com Our Market: 1 East Chop Drive, Oak Bluffs 508-693-3000 · ourmarketmv.com Tony’s Market: 119 Dukes County Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4799 tonysmarketmv.com Vineyard Wine Shop: 38 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-0943

BREWERIES Bad Martha Farmer’s Brewery: 270 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-939-4415 badmarthabeer.com Offshore Ale Co.: 30 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2626 · offshoreale.com

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119

L A S T PAG E

First Place

AND THE WINNER IS...

I T ' S E A S Y T O S E E why William Bishop’s photo of the Chappy Ferry returning to Edgartown in the morning fog won first prize in this year’s

Martha’s Vineyard Magazine Photo Contest. “I love the serene feel of the water,” commented one judge. The empty ferry and the sun peeking just under the clouds paint a picture of peace and quiet that only comes at sunrise on the water.

Yet Bishop, who lives in Edgartown, had stiff competition. There were a recordbreaking 1, 500 entries to the contest this year.

To enter the fourteenth annual Martha’s Vineyard Magazine Photo Contest, visit mvmagazine.com. The deadline is September 10, 2022.

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