Martha's Vineyard Island Guide by vineyardgazettemediagroup

Martha’s Vineyard

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W H E R E T O E AT, S TAY, S H O P, S W I M , D A N C E , H I K E , B I K E , P L AY & M O R E

2021

M A R T H A ’ S

V I N E Y A R D

Specializing in the sale and rental of the island’s finest luxury and waterfront properties.

Gerret Conover 508.627.1617

Office • 508.627.3757 www.mvlandvest.com

Thomas LeClair 508.627.0177

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

2021

ISLAND GUIDE ON-ISLAND GETTING HERE GETTING AROUND A BRIEF HISTORY

8 10 12 14

IN TOWN 18 Map: Island Towns Edgartown Oak Bluffs Vineyard Haven Up-Island

20 24 36 48 60

OUTSIDE 72 Map: Local Favorites Six Beaches, Six Personalities Happy Trails Farm Charm The Originals Get Sporty Bright Lights

74 76 80 84 92 98 104

HAPPENINGS 107 Island Time That Week in August

107 109

LISTINGS 111 Lodging Dining Markets & Groceries Thirsty

112 112 116 117

L A S T PA G E 1 2 0

Cover: Larry Glick | This Page: Tim Johnson About the cover: Middle Road, Chilmark

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ON ISLAND I F YO U ' R E H O L D I N G our fourth annual Island Guide in your hands, you are here on the Island (congratulations!) or about to be (rentals and hotel rooms are hot, hot, hot this year) or longing to be (make that ferry reservation now). Despite the year that 2020 was – or maybe because of it – Martha’s Vineyard in 2021 is a more popular destination than ever. Why? Because it’s remote, it’s beautiful, and it retains a historical character that informs a simpler lifestyle. It’s still a thrill to take a boat to get to an Island seven miles out to sea (page 10). Granted the Vineyard, named Noepe or “dry land amid waters” by the Wampanoags (page 92), isn’t a small island. Take a look at how our six different towns express their six individual personalities in their architecture and topography, by their shops and restaurants, and by the iconic gems that define them, from museums and working harbors to ocean views and working farms. The entire first half of this Guide, our “In Town” section (beginning on page 18), is devoted to taking you on an insider’s tour of those towns. Ask any Islander what they love most about their home, though, and you’ll probably hear a variation on the same theme – the outdoors. Or more precisely, the opportunities to get outside and enjoy nature so easily and in so many ways. Some love the beach (page 76), some love to walk the trails (page 80), some fish or play golf or ride horses (page 98). And everyone loves to stop in to the Island’s farm stands for

Martha’s Vineyard

ISLAND GUIDE E D I TO R Susie Middleton

A R T D I R E C TO R Jane McTeigue

C O N T R I B U T I N G P H OTO G R A P H E R S Ivy Ashe, Elizabeth Cecil, Alexander R. Wilcox Cheek, Kelley DeBettencourt, Iris Donnelly, Carol Dronsfield, Ray Ewing, Molly Glasgow, Larry Glick, Lori Harris, Michael Godin, Allen Green, Tim Johnson, Brian Jolley, Mark Lovewell, Susie Middleton, Karen Morgenbesser, Joshua Robinson-White, Jeanna Shepard, Peter Simon, Maria Thibodeau, Lisa Vanderhoop, Vineyard Colors, Sheree L. Vogt. Illustrations: Chris Burrell.

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Louisa Hufstader, John H. Kennedy, Nicole Grace Mercier, Holly Pretsky

A DV E R T I S I N G D E S I G N AND PRODUCTION Jared Maciel

D I R E C TO R O F S A L E S A N D MARKETING Skip Finley, sales@mvgazette.com

S A L E S M A N AG E R Frederica Carpenter

A DV E R T I S I N G S A L E S Garrett Burt, Gary Cook, Amy Kurth

A P U B L I C AT I O N O F

Martha’s Vineyard M AG A Z I N E

vegetables, meat, cheese, bread, and more (page 84). The second half of the Guide (beginning on page 72) is devoted to the outdoors. We’ve also included a handy list of restaurants and hotels in the back (page 111), where you’ll also find a preview of some of our favorite annual events (page 107). Because of an ever-changing schedule, though, we suggest you check the Vineyard Gazette calendar online (eventsmv.com) for updated information.

PUBLISHER Jane Seagrave

E D I TO R - I N - C H I E F Paul Schneider

SENIOR EDITOR Vanessa Czarnecki

And we wouldn’t be doing our jobs if we didn’t mention (as pandemic weary as we all are) that we’ll continue to be wearing our masks, socially distancing when possible, and respecting the safety of Islanders and visitors alike as we move towards a return to normal. We hope you have a wonderful visit to Martha’s Vineyard. – Susie Middleton

A S S I S TA N T E D I TO R Nicole Mercier

A R T D I R E C TO R Alley Moore

B U S I N E S S M A N AG E R Sarah Gifford

C U S TO M E R R E L AT I O N S M A N AG E R Martha's Vineyard Island Guide is published by Martha's Vineyard Magazine, part of the Vineyard Gazette Media Group, PO Box 66, Edgartown, MA 02539. Copyright © 2021. All rights reserved. For additional copies, please visit vineyardgazettestore.com.

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Kathy Agin

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

Chris Burrell

GETTING HERE

It’s an island! A trip to Martha’s Vineyard requires a little advance planning. Despite rumors you may have heard, there is no bridge to Martha’s Vineyard. There are only two ways to get here: by boat (a.k.a. ferry)

1 . WO O D S H O L E , M A S S .

3 . N E W B E D F O R D, M A S S .

The Steamship Authority

Seastreak ferries (seastreak.com) offer

or by plane.

(steamshipauthority.com) runs the most frequent service to the Island. You can travel by car (reserve well in advance for

seasonal, high-speed service from New Bedford to Oak Bluffs. Parking is available in New Bedford. Passengers only. Reserve

a spot), or you can travel as a passenger,

ahead.

B Y B O AT : F E R RY F O L L I E S

leaving your car at one of its parking

Ferry travel is by far the most popular

lots. You can also take a Peter Pan Bus

and least expensive option; it also offers the most frequent service, both during the off-season and the high season. This year some ferry companies may be traveling with reduced capacity due to Covid precautions so be sure to reserve well ahead. While all ferries offer passenger service, only the Steamship Authority from Woods Hole offers car service (advance reservations required). You can take a ferry from the following locations:

(peterpanbus.com) from Boston or New

York to the Woods Hole ferry terminal. (Reservations required.) Ferries arrive at both Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs

4 . H YA N N I S , M A S S . Hy-Line Cruises (hylinecruises.com)

offers six departures daily at the height of the season (two during shoulder seasons) on its high-speed ferries traveling between

terminals during the high season.

Hyannis and Oak Bluffs. Passengers only.

2 . N E W YO R K C I T Y

5 . Q U O N S E T P O I N T, R . I .

Seastreak ferries (seastreak.com) offers

The Martha’s Vineyard Fast Ferry

seasonal, high-speed passenger service

(vineyardfastferry.com) offers seasonal highspeed passenger service between Quonset Point and Oak Bluffs. There is plenty of parking available in Quonset Point.

between New York (Highlands, New Jersey, or East Thirty-fifth Street, New York) and Oak Bluffs. Weekends only. ISLAND GUIDE 2021

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

GETTING AROUND ON FOOT: On a day trip to the Island, you can explore each of the three down-Island towns on foot. To see the whole Island or for a longer trip, you’ll want a car. If you don’t bring your own, you will find car rental companies near the ferry terminals in Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs and at the airport. Taxi services, Uber, and Lyft are all available on the Island as well.

BY B U S : The Martha’s Vineyard Transit Authority (vineyardtransit.com) operates the public bus system on the Island. VTA routes Chris Burrell

travel among the ferry terminals, the airport, major landmarks, and all six Island

6 . FA L M O U T H , M A S S .

4 . F R O M N E W YO R K

towns. Service in the down-Island towns of

For day-trippers, the Island Queen

Cape Air and Elite Airways offer seasonal

Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown

(islandqueen.com) offers seasonal

flights to and from Westchester County Airport (HPN). Tradewind Aviation provides seasonal shuttle service to and from HPN. JetBlue and Delta fly in season from JFK.

is frequent during the high season, but plan

passenger service between Falmouth and Oak Bluffs. The Pied Piper (www. falmouthedgartownferry.com) sails daily between Falmouth and Edgartown, with overnight parking available in Falmouth.

BY A I R : D E S T I N AT I O N M V Y The only commercial airport on the Vineyard is located in the middle of the Island. Cape Air offers regular service during the off-season; other airlines offer flights in high season (see locations below). Avis, Hertz, and Budget rental cars are available at the airport. Reserve ahead.

1. FROM NANTUCKET Cape Air flies year-round to and from ACK.

2 . F R O M T E T E R B O R O, N . J . Tradewind Aviation flies a seasonal shuttle to and from Teterboro Airport (TEB).

5 . F R O M M A N S F I E L D, M A S S . Aero Charter New England provides yearround, on-demand charter service.

6. FROM NEW BEDFORD, MASS. Cape Air flies year-round to and from EWB.

ahead when taking an up-Island route, which will involve a transfer and at least an hour for a round trip. Bus passes are available for one, three, seven, or thirty days. Buses have racks for up to two bicycles.

ON A BIKE: Bike rentals are also available in all three down-Island towns. Down-Island roads are relatively flat, and scenic routes between Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown are only a few miles long. Take

7. F R O M WA S H I N G T O N , D.C .

note that routes combine bike paths and

American Airlines and Jet Blue offer

travel on roads where cyclists should obey

seasonal service from Ronald Reagan National Airport (DCA).

all traffic laws. Biking is also a great way to explore Chappaquiddick.

8. FROM BOSTON

path for a fun ride without traffic. Rides

Cape Air flies year-round from Logan airport (BOS). JetBlue flies in season.

through the beautiful towns of West

The state forest has a ten-mile bike

Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah are longer and more strenuous. Off-road

9 . F R O M P R OV I D E N C E , R . I .

bikers will love tackling the network of

3 . F R O M H YA N N I S , M A S S .

Cape Air offers seasonal service from T.F.

hilly trails all over the Island. For more

Cape Air flies seasonally to and from HYA.

Green Airport (PVD).

about bike rentals, see page 98.

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

A B R I E F H I S T O R Y O F PA R A D I S E The land that would eventually become the Island of Martha’s Vineyard was created 12,000 to 18,000 years ago by the mile-high ice mountains of the last great Ice Age. The hills of the Island’s North Shore, in fact, mark the southernmost boundary of that advancing ice. With so much of the planet’s water piled up as ice, the sea level was hundreds of feet lower than it is today, and the coastline lay far to the south. But as the climate slowly warmed and the ice retreated northward, the ocean began to rise. Around 6,000 years ago,

the sea filled in the lowlands between today’s Vineyard and the mainland, creating the Island that we know today. During those same millennia, Neolithic hunters moved throughout the region; the oldest human artifacts in the Martha’s Vineyard Museum date back 9,000 years. By the 1600s, when colonizers from England began to appear, the Island population had established a rich Native American culture that survives to this day within the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah).

Leventhal Map Center

9 , 000 Y E A R S A G O

1642

1671

N AT I V E A M E R I C A N S S E T T L E O N N O E P E ( “ D RY L A N D A M I D WAT E R S ” )

F I R S T O F F I C I A L LY S A N CTIONED ENGLISH COLON I S T S M O V E T O I S L A N D.

THE TOWNS OF EDGARTOWN A N D T I S B U RY A R E I N C O R P O R AT E D.

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Curtesy of Chris Baer

Courtesy of Martha's Vineyard Museum

1765

1798

1835

FIRST OCEANGOING W H A L I N G V OYA G E O U T O F EDGARTOWN SETS SAIL.

MAIN STREET IN HOLMES H O L E , N O W V I N E YA R D H AV E N , I S L A I D O U T.

FIRST RELIGIOUS CAMP M E E T I N G I S H E L D I N W H AT WILL BECOME OAK BLUFFS.

Courtesy of Martha's Vineyard Museum

1846

1 8 74

1900

V I N E YA R D G A Z E T T E F O U N D E D A N D R E G U L A R F E R RY SERVICE BEGINS.

U LY S S E S S . G R A N T B E COMES FIRST SITTING PRESI D E N T T O V I S I T T H E I S L A N D.

FIRST AUTOMOBILE COMES T O T H E I S L A N D.

Tim Johnson

Steve Myrick

1938

2015

2016

T H E G R E AT N E W E N G L A N D H U R R I C A N E D E S T R OY S MENEMSHA.

T H E 4 0 0 -T O N G AY H E A D LIGHT IS MOVED 129 FEET BACK DUE TO EROSION.

SMITHSONIAN RECOGNIZES AFRICAN AMERICAN LEGACY IN OAK BLUFFS

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

PENUMBRA PHOTOGRAPHS Vintage Photography

Flower Study (1890’s Platinum Print) Photographer Unknown Summer Gallery 12 N. Summer St., Edgartown (508) 627-9002 | (203) 415-6410

EXPLORE

T I M E

M A C H I N E

C O L L E C T I O N S

African American History vineyardgazette.com/timemachine Sponsored by: Cronig’s Market, Harbor View Hotel, MV Camp Meeting Association, MV Museum, Vineyard Trust, MV Bank

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

Tim Johnson

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

IN TOWN As islands go, Martha’s Vineyard is

teenth century whaling and coastal

a big one: ninety-six square miles,

schooner fleets, while Oak Bluffs

in fact. Big enough to have six

was the town where the summer

towns, each with its own personality. While the town centers are

tourist economy got its start.

only a few miles from one another,

The smaller “up-Island” towns

the history, architecture, econom-

of West Tisbury, Chilmark, and

ics, and geography have fostered a

Aquinnah remain far more ru-

unique character for each.

ral and tied to the Island’s farm-

The three “down-Island” (or easternmost) towns – Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, and Vineyard Haven – are the most populated. With their

ing and fishing history. Aquinnah is also home to the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah), descendants of the Island’s origi-

protected natural harbors, Vine-

nal inhabitants, and to the most

yard Haven and Edgartown be-

stunning natural phenomenon on

came home to the Island’s nine-

the Island – the Gay Head Cliffs.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

UP-ISLAND With rolling hills and winding roads, old stone walls and animals grazing in open pastures, ocean views and a working fishing village, the Vineyard’s three “up-Island” towns offer a picturesque step back in time.

AQUINNAH

CHILMARK

WEST TISBURY

Aquinnah’s colorful

A scenic Chilmark

Hit the weekly

Gay Head Cliffs are

drive includes views

outdoor markets –

one of the most stun-

of the Atlantic, old

farmers, artisans, and

ning natural phenom-

stone walls, and

antiques – in the rural

enon on the Island.

sheep-filled pastures.

town of West Tisbury.

LAKE TASHMOO

WEST TISBURY

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

IN TOWN

Three up, three down

DOWN-ISLAND The Vineyard’s three most populated towns – each with its own personality, history, and architecture – are all located on the eastern end of the

West Chop

LA GO

Island, which Vineyarders call “down-Island.”

V I N E YA R D H AV E N

OAK BLUFFS

EDGARTOWN

Shop Main Street,

A quintessential

With its historic

rent a kayak, catch a

seaside vacation town

homes and lively

film, find sea glass –

with a rich history,

shopping district, the

all in the harbor town

Oak Bluffs is fun for

village of Edgartown

of Vineyard Haven.

all ages.

is made for strolling.

Atlan t

ic Dr.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

EDGARTOWN Stroll the historic village, then head for the beach

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

The seaport village of Edgartown is made for strolling. The whole downtown area is a designated historic district, with reminders everywhere of Edgartown’s prominence as both a nineteenth-century whaling port and a seventeenth -century English settlement (the first on the Island). Stately captains’ houses and landmarks like the Old Whaling Church mix with shops, art galleries, restaurants, and parks. Don’t miss the Edgartown Lighthouse. From downtown, a short ferry ride takes you to the beautiful island of Chappaquiddick, or a short drive takes you to South Beach – a pristine stretch of sandy shore featuring Atlantic Ocean waves.

Fast Facts P O P U L AT I O N

5,258 AREA, SQ. MI.

ZIP CODE

02539 NO. OF PONDS

Maria Thibodeau

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

A D AY A N D A N I G H T

IN EDGARTOWN

Start your walking tour of picturesque Edgartown towards the upper end of

Main Street. Take a peek inside ( the Old Whaling Church, then pick up a

Pe as e's

Co ok St .

" Giant Pagoda Tree. From South

St .

' $

S. W ate rS t.

Turn left on Davis Lane and walk to South Water Street to see the famous

Sc ho ol

street is the beautiful Charlotte Inn.

" #

St. ck Do

. St

Ch ap pa qu id d

. Rd ick

Gazette newspaper office. Across the

)

er at W N.

S. Su m m er St .

1760 building that houses the Vineyard

St .

the block and you’ll pass ! the historic

N. Su m m er

Ch urc hS t.

. St

chicken sandwich. Continue to the end of

Da vis Ln .

Ma in St.

w he ay M

lemon-blueberry muffin or maybe a fried

(

10 &

se or M

in Rosewater Market & Takeaway for a

Pe nt Ln .

Ln .

. St

Summer Street. If you need to refuel, pop

Si m ps on r te in W

Check out the new Lululemon store on the corner and turn right on South

Po int Wa y So uth

Main Street to the next intersection.

t. rS lle Fu

. St

e's as Pe

behind the courthouse), and stroll down

rth No

e ag tt Co

latte at Espresso Love (off Church Street,

ay tW in Po

Water, hop back on Main Street by taking a right. Head down to the waterfront. (Take note, you’ll have missed a block of shops on Main Street between Summer and Water streets. Put those on your list for visiting later.)

Down on # Dock Street you’ll defi-

nitely want to get an ice cream cone from either the Ice Cream & Candy Bazaar or

Carry your cone down to $ Memorial

out & The Carnegie, a restored historic

Wharf and climb to the top of the obser-

property owned by the Vineyard Trust.

vation deck to watch the On Time ferries

The Carnegie features a visitor center, a

going back and forth to % Chappaquid-

dick. Stop in the ' Old Sculpin Gallery across from the wharf on your way up to

the Scoop Shack and check out the boats

) North Water Street, where a cluster

in the harbor.(If it’s early, the classic Dock

of art galleries (page 31), restaurants, and

Street Coffee Shop will still be open.)

boutique hotels welcomes you. Check

gift shop, and a permanent exhibit called Living Legends. It is also the starting point for architectural, literary, and waterfront tours of Edgartown. Continue strolling along North Water past all the former whaling captains’ homes with their white-painted clapboards, dark green shutters, and white cap-rail fences.

10 Harbor View Hotel At the far end, the &

will come into view. Stop for a rest on the benches across the street. Watch the sailboats in the harbor, then follow the sandy path down

11 Edgartown Lighthouse. When to the &

open (page 104), climb to the top and get

Ray Ewing

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

a gull’s-eye view of the harbor. Head back up to the Harbor View and have a drink on the front porch or an early dinner at restaurant Bettini. Or hop back into the village for other fine dinner options (see “The New Cafe Style,” page page 28) .

IN TOWN

Stay | Edgartown

S TAY I N S T Y L E

Courtesy of Lark Hotels

The Richard on Main Street is one of four in Lark Hotels’ Edgartown Collection.

Chic Meets Boutique at Lark Hotels Joining the Sydney on North Water Street, the Christopher on South Water Street, and the Richard on Main Street, the recently renovated Edgartown Inn on North Water Street is the latest addition

Courtesy of Lark Hotels

to Lark Hotels’ Edgartown collection, a portfolio of charming boutique hotels.

Joshua Robinson-White

B E S T H OT E L , G E N E R A L E XC E L L E N C E

ALL THE PRETTY ROOMS The hotel landscape in Edgartown

the Harbor View replaced the former

keeps getting better and better. The

Lighthouse Grill with the handsomely

award-winning 124-room Harbor View

renovated Bettini Restaurant. L’étoile is

Hotel (above), with its classic view of

adjacent to the Sydney.

the Edgartown Lighthouse and harbor,

Randi Baird

B E S T FA M I LY- F R I E N D LY LO D G I N G

Winnetu Oceanside Resort The South Beach destination hotel offers a complimentary children’s day program (think: face painting and beach trips), a kiddie pool, antique fire truck rides, and more. It’s dog friendly, too.

Luxurious comfort continues to be a

completed renovations in 2019, and the

priority at the Charlotte Inn, the Relais

former Clarion Inn on Upper Main Street

& Chateau property on South Summer

reopened as the boutique Edgar Hotel in

Street celebrating fifty years under its

2019 as well. Last spring, the ninety-room

current ownership, and at the Winnetu

Harborside Inn on South Water Street

Oceanside Resort in Katama (left).

upgraded its event spaces and suites. The

The Hob Knob Luxury Boutique

waterfront hotel offers a variety of accom-

Hotel & Spa emphasizes personal service

modations in several buildings.

and comfort in an elegant atmosphere.

Lark Hotels (top left) opened its fourth

Need a budget option? Take a look at the

boutique property in town, the Edgartown

condo-style rentals (studios, one-, and

Inn on North Water Street.

two-bedroom apartments) at Edgartown

Hotels are paying more attention to food too. Adjacent to the Edgar is the fun

Commons. For addresses, phone numbers, and

and affordable Town Bar & Grill, which

websites of all Edgartown hotels, turn to

offers plenty of outdoor seating. And

The Hotel & Restaurant Guide, page 111.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

IN TOWN

Shop | Edgartown

SHOP:

THE LOOK

B R E A K FA S T, L U N C H & TA K E O U T S AY YO U ’ R E L O O K I N G for a

sandwiches, salads and more. Edgar-

freshly made croissant and a cup of

town Diner is a popular spot too.

pour-over coffee – and a chance to sit

Ray Ewing

Party dress or hoodie? Earrings or eyeglasses? Whatever you're looking for, stylewise, Edgartown's got it.

E D G A R T O W N in summertime has two popular fashion templates: preppy (boat shoes, red shorts, polo or button-down shirts for the men; white jeans and print tunics or shifts for the women) and surfy (sneakers, hoodies, and beanie caps for everyone, plus lacy sundresses and long skirts for women).

Business breakfast? Girls’ lunch?

under an umbrella in a lovely courtyard.

Bettini at the Harbor View is lovely.

You probably want a late breakfast at

Thinking something more like burgers

Behind the Bookstore. If you’d rather

and beers? The Newes or Rockfish,

grab a plate of eggs and home fries (and

definitely. And Town Bar & Grill on

a bit of local gossip), hit Dock Street

Upper Main Street, too.

Coffee Shop – the earlier the better. On the way out to South beach, stop

Need takeout for tonight’s picnic or impromptu gathering at home? Stop

and get takeout snacks, sandwiches,

in to or preorder from Black Sheep

drinks, picnic supplies and more from

Mercantile or the Fish House, and pick

Katama General Store. Or stay and eat

up libations at MV Wine and Spirits.

right there under an umbrella on the

All three are located near the entrance to

patio.

the airport at the center of the Island.

Meeting friends in town for a late

Back in town on Upper Main Street,

breakfast or early lunch? Espresso Love

Edgartown Meat & Fish and Soigne

and Rosewater Market & Takeaway

(both carry wine) can set you up, too.

are both great spots for coffee, breakfast

(Listings on page 111.)

Get your prep on at Vineyard Vines, Lilly Pulitzer, J. McLaughlin, and Katydid.

AT R I A

Hit the Boneyard for surf styles. Or check out the new Faherty store

Coproprietors Christian and Greer

for surf-inspired sustainable clothing

Thornton have you covered at their

and blankets. Backwater Trading has

longtime award-winning Edgartown

all your outdoor clothing and gear.

restaurant Atria (137 Main Street).

For a great selection of menswear,

Upstairs or outside on a summer evening

shop Sundog. Outfit the little ones at

(with extra covered seating added during

Rosebud Kids.

the 2020 season), you can dine on the

Show your Island love with locally

freshest seafood and sophisticated farm-

crafted wampum jewelry from Claudia

inspired New American cuisine. Or go

Jewelry; Vineyard-themed charms,

casual with the Brick Cellar Bar menu

bracelets, pendants, and earrings from

and eat what might be the best burger –

CB Stark; or hand-crafted artisan

and fries – on the Vineyard.

jewelry from Stefanie Wolf Designs.

Don’t miss: Crispy wok-fired Island

Be sure to check out Lululemon’s

lobster, cast-iron seared Georges Bank

huge new store on Main Street. Don't miss the the boutiques on Winter Steet and North Summer Street, too. 28

Elizabeth Cecil

BEST BURGER AND FRIES

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

scallops with crispy prosciutto, truffleParmesan fries.

IN TOWN

Dine | Edgartown

THE NEW CAFÉ STYLE Whether under a tent, on the sidewalk, or in a park, dining migrated outdoors last summer in Edgartown, thanks to special town permits and creative thinking. No doubt the popularity of eating al fresco will continue in 2021, so be sure to check out the restaurants on this page in addition to those on page 28 and in the hotel and restaurant directory on page 111. L’ E T O I L E A permanent tent as well as extra tables on the lawn add to the ambiance of eating at one of the Island’s best fine dining restaurants. Don’t miss: Soft-shell crabs, any dessert. (22 North Water Street)

Ray Ewing

B E S T C O C K TA I L S

TO TRY

Ray Ewing

Restaurants like the Port Hunter (top photo) and Alchemy (bottom photo) added more outdoor tables in 2020, thanks to special town permits.

T H E T E R R AC E

ALCHEMY

Located in the elegant Charlotte Inn, The

Downtown energy, fried oysters, and

Terrace offers French-inspired dinners

covered outdoor seating are highlights at

in the conservatory and on the patio.

this long-running Main Street bistro.

Don’t miss: Short ribs, vintage cocktails.

Don’t miss: Award-winning cocktails.

(27 South Summer Street)

(71 Main Street)

DÉTENTE

T H E C OV I N G T O N

A small patio and a takeout menu let you

Sidewalk seating enhances the bistro vibe of

experience the Island-sourced cuisine of this

the Covington, where Island ingredients are

Vineyard gem, located in Nevin Square.

celebrated in flavorful small plates.

Don’t miss: Pan-crisped Vineyard fluke,

Don’t miss: Mermaid Farm feta with

fried cauliflower. (15 Winter Street)

honey and crumpet. (52 Main Street)

1 9 R AW OYS T E R B A R

THE PORT HUNTER

Small plates, big plates, oysters, crab, lob-

Oysters al fresco, of course: extra sidewalk

ster, great wine – all available on a spacious

seating means enjoying both the raw bar and

patio outside the bar.

the catch of the day outside.

Don’t miss: The lobster roll.

Don’t miss: Honeysuckle oysters.

(19 Church Street)

(55 Main Street)

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

IN TOWN

Explore | Edgartown

D E S T I N AT I O N :

CHAPPY

Carol Dronsfield

C H A P PA Q U I D D I C K may be part of the town of Edgartown, but it feels like it’s a world away. All you have to do is hop on one of the On Time ferries – they’re always on time because they simply load up and go – and travel 527 feet across Edgartown Harbor to find tranquility. On Chappy, there are no restaurants, boutiques, or bars. Instead, you’ll find breathtaking scenery, from ocean beaches to peaceful ponds, and abundant wildlife. There are almost 1,000 acres of preserved land on Chappy. Getting on Chappy with a car can require a long wait at busy times, and lines increased during the summer of 2020. A better bet is to walk your bike onto the ferry – the island is small and uncrowded enough that you can see much of it by bicycle. Pedaling up

Sheree L. Vogt

from Chappaquiddick Road. Managed by

was picked apart by souvenir hunters fol-

ing, you’ll have expansive views of the outer

the Trustees of Reservations, Mytoi is a

lowing the fatal crash there in 1969. Cross

harbor as you pass the private Chappaquid-

serene little world of footpaths, groves, and

it, and you’re on the Vineyard’s eastern-

dick Beach Club and head toward Slip Away

rock gardens. Across the road, a nature trail

most beach, known as East Beach and

Farm, which sells Chappy-grown produce at

leads to the Cape Pogue Wildlife Refuge

Leland Beach, which connects to Wasque

a farm stand that was once the local school.

and Poucha Pond. Continue past Mytoi

Beach further south and Cape Pogue Wild-

on the road and you’ll reach the new Dike

life Refuge (admission required), incuding

Bridge, which replaced the old bridge that

Cape Pogue Lighthouse, to the north.

Chappaquiddick Road from the ferry land-

The Japanese-style garden Mytoi is less than a half mile up the unpaved Dike Road 30

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

ART GALLERY STROLL

Eight fine art galleries are a ten-minute walk apart.

Maria Thibodeau

Two new galleries opened in 2000: Lucy Dahl’s Untamable (top) and Winter Street Gallery (bottom).

O L D S C U L P I N G A L L E RY

N O R T H WAT E R S T. G A L L E RY

Inside a historic boatbuilder’s shop by the

Contemporary and traditional fine art, as

Chappy Ferry, the Old Sculpin holds group

well as plenty of maritime and whimsical

and solo shows by Vineyard artists.

elements, make this a fun spot to browse.

C H R I S T I N A G A L L E RY

PENUMBRA

Traditional art is the specialty at this

Penumbra Vintage Photographs special-

spacious, two-story gallery that also offers

izes in vintage prints from the late nine-

antique maps and vintage nautical charts.

teenth and early twentieth century.

E I S E N H A U E R G A L L E RY

U N TA M A B L E

Representing more than forty contem-

Photographer Lucy Dahl’s art gallery on

porary artists, this gallery carries fine art

Dock Street offers jewelry, clothing, and

jewelry, paintings, and sculpture.

gifts in addition to her photographs.

E D G A R T O W N A R T G A L L E RY

W I N T E R S T R E E T G A L L E RY

Tucked inside the elegant Charlotte Inn,

New to the Edgartown art scene in 2020,

this gallery has more than 200 oils, pastels,

Winter Street showcases the work of up-

and watercolors.

and-coming contemporary visual artists.

Elizabeth Cecil

A Bicycle Built for You Biking proved to be a popular socially distanced outdoor activity last summer; Edgartown bike shops were busier than ever. This year, plan ahead by going online to family-owned Wheel Happy, a perennial Best of the Vineyard winner (wheelhappybicycles.com) or longtime popular Edgartown Bicycles (edgartownbicycles. com), pictured above. Martha's Vineyard Bike Rentals (marthasvineyardbike.com) Ray Ewing

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

is the oldest bike shop in town. 31

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

IN TOWN

Local Knowledge | Edgartown

DON'T MISS:

SHERIFF'S MEADOW SANCTUARY LIKE MANY GOOD THINGS, Sheriff’s Meadow Sanctuary is hidden. Tucked between Planting Field Way and Pease’s Point Way on the northwestern edge of the village of Edgartown, this little gem is a microcosm of conservation on the Island, featuring upland meadow, a freshwater pond, salt marshes, and a variety of blooming wildlife, known to be particularly fragrant in springtime. Walk the Ruth and Ed Brooks trail around the old Ice Pond, past John Butler’s Mudhole, and catch the scenic views of Eel Pond and Nantucket Sound. Open from dusk to dawn. For more information, sheriffsmeadow.org. Jared Maciel

Edgartown’s best kept secret features a walking trail around the old Ice Pond.

M O RE

10 1

THINGS TO DO 2

WA L K

RIDE

LEARN

WAT C H

CHECK OUT

Explore Lighthouse Beach as the sun rises over Chappy.

Take a harbor tour aboard the Oldport launch.

Take a waterfront or architectural tour of Edgartown from the Carnegie.

See vintage planes take off and land at Katama Airfield.

Find movies, games, crafts, and more at the Edgartown Library.

OGLE

PA D D L E

EXPLORE

VIEW

TOUR

Watch the sun set from South Beach.

Take a kayak tour at the Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary.

Wander through meadows and salt marsh in the Caroline Tuthill Preserve.

Preview a show in progress at Vineyard Arts Project.

Take an oversand ride and tour Cape Pogue Lighthouse.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

• Studios, condos and townhouses with kitchen/kitchenette • Family friendly with a pool, playground and tennis court • Conference center for meetings and events

30 Island Inn Road, Oak Bluffs, Mass | (508) 693-2002 | www.islandinn.com M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

OAK BLUFFS The beach, the boardwalk, the classic seaside charm

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

If you’re looking for a laid-back vibe, charming architecture, family friendly swimming beaches, and a bustling downtown, Oak Bluffs is your place. One of the two ports served by the Steamship Authority, Oak Bluffs is a quintessential seaside resort town with a very special history. As a longtime summer destination for African Americans and a refuge during segregation days, Oak Bluffs is now featured in a permanent exhibit on the Power of Place in the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of African American History in Washington, D.C. Once known as Cottage City, Oak Bluffs is also home to a collection of colorful gingerbread cottages – and to the oldest continuously operating platform carousel in America.

Fast Facts P O P U L AT I O N

5,741 AREA, SQ. MI.

7.37 ZIP CODE

02557 T O W N PA R K S

Tim Johnson

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

A D AY A N D A N I G H T

IN OAK BLUFFS

Spending a day in Oak Bluffs should start with the sun. Most town beaches face

(

east and are prime locations for watching the sunrise. At the " Inkwell, a group

called the Polar Bears begins the day op East Ch

with a swim and some aqua-aerobics. Newcomers welcome! From the edge

q Pas

of the Inkwell, it’s an easy walk through

iv e

beautiful # Ocean Park to $ Circuit

kA ve.

Lake

Co u

Av e.

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tA ve .

Na u m

nt y ke's Co u Du

e. Av

Clin

tA ve .

e. Av

r Pa

r ra

tta

the ' Flying Horses Carousel, the oldest

While you’re downtown, don’t miss

ia or

Pe q

e ov Gr

am W

hA ve .

Circl al

12 a ce

stop and marvel at the & Tabernacle and

Fa it

. ve rA tle

a free way to enjoy the sights. Be sure to

y Park Trinit

Taberna cle Ave.

. Ave ity Trin

place, but walking the tranquil streets is

interested in the fascinating history of the

ke t

Rur

Av e.

available and worth scheduling if you’re

Co mm . Ave.

Historic Landmark. Guided tours are

Park

ve. ffs A

ve. wA Vie

old Methodist Camp Ground, a National

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Sea

Pa wt

Circu

Mocha Mott’s and stroll through the %

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below). Grab a coffee from the original

e. Central Av

Oa k

it Av e.

Avenue, the main street of Oak Bluffs (see

visit the Cottage Museum (when open).

)

. Ave

continuously operating platform carousel in America. A ride on the antique horses while reaching for rings is a kick for kids

out – for pizza, fried clams, and more.

and kids at heart alike. (Please note, the

Head up Circuit Avenue to shop for Island

scenic Hart Haven to ) State Beach for

Flying Horses did not open in 2020, but

souvenirs.

swimming in Nantucket Sound (no big

plans to open this year on Memorial Day weekend.) Hop right across the street for lunch at Giordano’s – eat in or take

To explore beyond downtown, rent a bicycle (and helmet!). Start by pedaling to the ( East Chop Lighthouse and then

double back along the shared-use path by

waves) or exploring * Sengekontacket Pond across the street, where you can rent a paddleboard or kayak. The pond is also the setting for the attack on the sailing instructor in the movie Jaws. (If you want to ratchet up the adrenaline, personal watercraft rentals are available

SHOPPING THE CIRCUIT

on Oak Bluffs Harbor.)

F R O M M U R D I C K ’ S F U D G E at one end of the street to Vineyard Vines at the other, Circuit Avenue has a little bit of everything you need for clothing and sustenance on a hot summer day. T-shirts, outdoor gear, souvenirs, toys, burgers, fried seafood, wine and beer – plus lots of ice cream – are yours. Ryan Amusements Game Room will keep the kids busy on a rainy day. Ray Ewing

As evening approaches, explore the

+ Arts District, a collection of galleries 10

along Dukes County Avenue. It’s a short walk back to the center of town 11 Kennebec Avenue for great and +

dinner options. After eating, explore the nightlife on Circuit Avenue. Finish the

12 Back Door Donuts, where night with +

the waiting line (7 p.m. to 1 a.m.) behind Post Office Square is the place to be.

Live music at The Ritz will keep you on your

Don’t worry, the warm doughnuts and

feet any night of the week.

famous apple fritters are worth it.

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

IN TOWN

Stay | Oak Bluffs

GO BIG

KID STUFF

S TAY S M A L L

Ivy Ashe

B E S T FA M I LY AC T I V I T Y

For 140 years children and adults alike have found joy riding the Flying Horses Carousel, the oldest continuously operating platform carousel in America. From the Wurlitzer band organ’s iconic tunes to the competition to catch the brass ring, it’s good old-fashioned fun. (Check vineyardtrust.org for seasonal opening and hours.)

Mark Lovewell

Across from Oak Bluffs Harbor, Summercamp offers a variety of rooms, a game room, a canteen, and a lively decorating scheme. Hang out in the lobby or in a chair on the front porch.

YO U ’ V E G O T great options for bunking in Oak Bluffs, starting with the biggest hotel in town: Summercamp, the renovated former Wesley Hotel on the edge of the Camp Ground and a stone’s throw from the waterfront. Summercamp, a property of Lark Hotels, offers the whole enchilada: a variety of brightly decorated rooms with a chic feel, a great front porch for viewing the action, a game room, and a canteen. You can’t go wrong with Summercamp if you want to be in the thick of it, but there are

Jeanna Shepard

a number of smaller alternatives in Oak

Mark Lovewell

include Titticut Follies, the Madison Inn, Martha’s Vineyard Surfside

Bluffs that are charming and offer an

Hotel, the Pequot Hotel, the Oak Bluffs

RYA N A M U S E M E N T S

experience more like renting your own

Inn, and Tivoli Inn.

No Vineyard kid has ever said, “Don’t

place.

The Island Inn is a nice option just a

For quaint seaside serenity, check out

bit out of town in beautiful Hart Haven,

rainy days and gray afternoons turn out

Isabelle’s Beach House. The Narragan-

located next to the restaurant Nomans.

a whole lot better when a trip to Ryan

sett House, a historic Victorian Inn with

The historic Shearer Cottage, a stop on

Amusements Game Room on Circuit

quintessential gingerbread charm, is

the African American Heritage Trail, is

Avenue is in the plans. Prizes big and

Black-owned and offers thirteen unique

taking a respite for the 2021 season.

small keep everyone happy; just be sure

rooms at a range of prices.

take me to the arcade.” In other words,

to bring pockets of real cash.

Other small inns and hotels in town M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

For more information and complete hotel listings, turn to page 111. 39

IN TOWN

Dine | Oak Bluffs

Elizabeth Cecil

C R AV I N G S Savory or sweet, Oak Bluffs has it. You crave it, you’ll find it.

DONUTS

TA C O S

Back Door Donuts, 5 Post Office

Dilly’s at The Ritz, 4 Circuit Avenue

Square (back door), 7 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Try: roasted veggie rice bowl

Front bakery: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Try: apple fritters

FUDGE Murdick’s, 5 Circuit Avenue

In season (that would be May to October), O.B. has a little something for everyone – salty or sweet, fried or fresh. Can’t decide? Stop in at Tony’s Market for groceries, beer, and wine. Or pop into Reliable Market for

Pick: double chocolate

C H O C O L AT E Enchanted Chocolates, 4 Chapman Avenue Pick: almond butter crunch

PIZZA

FRIED CLAMS

The Barn, Bowl & Bistro, 13 Uncas

Giordano’s (Gio’s), 18 Lake Avenue

Avenue

Plus: pizza by the slice

Pick: prosciutto and fig

BISCUITS

BEER + BURGERS

Biscuits restaurant, 26 Lake Avenue

Offshore Ale Co., 30 Kennebec Avenue

Pick: cod cakes Benedict

Plus: wood-fired pizza

FROZEN DRINKS Nancy’s, 29 Lake Avenue Plus: lobster rolls, fried clams

WINGS

CURRY Vineyard Caribbean Cuisine, 7 Circuit Avenue extension Try: BBQ ribs

essentials and a great

Coop deVille, 12 Circuit Avenue

GREENS

selection of meat.

Extension Try: kickin’ bourbon

MV Salads, 55 Circuit Avenue

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Build: your own salad

IN TOWN

Dine | Oak Bluffs

FA R E :

TA K E I T H O M E

Jeanna Shepard

TA K I N G I T T O T H E STREETS In the summer of 2020, the town of Oak Bluffs decided to close Circuit Avenue and the lower half of Kennebec to vehicles on Sundays, allowing restaurants more outdoor seating and other stores the chance to display gifts, clothing, and more outside. From 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., pedestrians Jeanna Shepard

Sarah Brown’s Comfort Food (top) opened for takeout over July Fourth weekend; takeout from The Cardboard Box included stuffed clams from the Oyster Bar 02557 menu.

breakfast, family-style dinners and natural wines, and the Pawnee House (in the old Park Corner Bistro space at 20 Kennebec) served comfort food with vegan options for

strolled and shopped (masks required) and enjoyed being downtown without the traffic. The repeating event, much like a street fair, was popular and could be continued this summer, depending on the interest of town business owners and the approval of town selectmen.

dinner and weekend brunch. Oak Bluffs chef and restaurateur Ben DeForest kept the creative takeout menus coming from Susie Middleton

his two restaurants, the Cardboard Box (6 Circuit Avenue) and the Red Cat Kitchen

D E S P I T E 2 0 2 0 being what it was, new Oak Bluffs restaurant Sarah Brown’s Comfort Food opened up at 53 Circuit Avenue over July Fourth weekend for

(14 Kennebec Avenue), and included offerings (like stuffed clams) from his third restaurant, the Oyster Bar 02557. The Sweet Life (63 Circuit Avenue)

takeout with a line out the door. The

continued to offer fine dining on their out-

restaurant is the newest venture from a

door patio and for takeaway and extended

longtime family owned catering business.

their season well into the fall.

Two more new restaurants took the leap

Even with more in-house dining on

in 2020: Seaweeds, located in the old 20

the horizon, takeout is likely to remain

by Nine space at 16 Kennebec, offered

popular in the summer of 2021. M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

Jeanna Shepard

IN TOWN

Explore | Oak Bluffs

D E S T I N AT I O N :

CAMP GROUND

Tim Johnson

I T B E G A N I N 1 8 3 5 with an idea: a Methodist camp meeting revival in a grove of shady oaks by the sea. Year after year it went on, until tents and a small preacher’s stand evolved into circles of colorful Carpenter Gothic cottages and a majestic, open, wrought-iron tabernacle. Formally known as the Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting Association,

planted window boxes and small, welltended gardens. There are walking tours, a cottage museum, a children’s festival, and a summer music series. Every Wednesday night (in a normal year!) there are also old-fashioned community sings in the Tabernacle, and special concerts are held

Tim Johnson

in this magnificent structure as well.

the Camp Ground is a little wonderland

The highlight of the summer is usually

tucked away from the downtown bustle.

a Wednesday night in August when thou-

Take a Tour

Informally known as gingerbread cot-

sands of painted paper lanterns are hung

To visit the Cottage Museum or take a

tages, the fanciful homes are all porches,

from the cottage porch eaves and lit as

scheduled tour of the Camp Ground, check

quirky scrollwork, cathedral arches, and

one in the unforgettable Grand Illumina-

the Martha's Vineyard Camp Meeting

tiny second story balconies. Grandpas

tion; the night glows in a whirl of color;

Association's website ( mvcma.org) for an

nap on porch rockers next to cheerfully

check eventsmv.com for 2021 plans.

updated 2021 schedule.

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

IN TOWN

Art & Entertainment | Oak Bluffs

Jeanna Shepard

New work from well-known Vineyard photographer Alison Shaw includes her hull series.

GALLERY GRAZING

In O.B., it’s an easy stroll from one gallery to the next.

Executive director Ann Smith welcomes all to the Art Barn.

F E AT H E R S T O N E Celebrating 25 years From a group of like-minded artists moving from spot to spot to a six-acre campus open daily to all, Featherstone

MARIPOSA MUSEUM

C O U S E N R O S E G A L L E RY

Center for the Arts has grown in the last

Open seasonally on Circuit Avenue, the

This longtime seasonal Circuit Avenue

twenty-five years to be the nexus of art life

museum explores American history

gallery shows contemporary paintings,

on the Vineyard. In 2017, with the help

through a multicultural lens.

ceramics, and jewelry.

of generous donations, the center opened

A L I S O N S H AW G A L L E RY

K N O W H E R E G A L L E RY

Shop for recent and classic work at the

Opened in 2019 by Val Francis, the gal-

as teaching classrooms. With the addition

well-known Vineyard photographer’s

lery on Dukes County Avenue encourages

of a brand new pottery studio and jewelrey

gallery in the Oak Bluffs Arts District.

patrons to explore the world through art.

its 6,200-square-foot Art Barn, which includes the Island's largest gallery as well

studio, Featherstone has been able to expand classes for both kids and adults and

C R O S S R OA D S G A L L E RY

ARTS DISTRICT STROLL

Inspirational Island photography is the

Check eventsmv.com for news on the

exhibits every year. The campus and gift

theme at Michael Blanchard’s Dukes

return of this festive monthly outdoor art

shop are usually open daily; for hours and

County Avenue gallery.

exerience.

protocul, visit featherstoneart.org.

hold a much anticipated series of themed

PA R K- A N D - V I E W Arguably last summer’s biggest hit was the drive-in movie series organized by the Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival at the MV Ice Arena. From Jaws and E.T. to John Lewis: Good Trouble, movies sold out quickly, as families anxious to get out of the house signed up for some old-

fashioned fun. The series, which included live entertainment by musicians and celebrities, continued in October with a fall showing of the annual film festival TMVFF usually holds in the spring. To find locations and dates for this year’s movies, visit tmvff.org M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

Larry Glick

DAILY FISHING & SUNSET CHARTERS

Best of the

Vineyard

2 0 19

Martha’s Vineyard Magazine

Great for a family outing! $80 per person Reduced capacity due to COVID All bait and tackle, MA Fishing License, and private instruction included.

VOTED BEST FISHING CHARTER on the Vineyard for over 20 years! Private charters available

(508) 693-1238 www.mvskipper.com 44

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

IN TOWN

Local Knowledge | Oak Bluffs

DON'T MISS:

UNION CHAPEL H A P P Y A N N I V E R S A RY ! Union Chapel, opened in 1871, turns 150 this year. One of the Vineyard’s most distinctive structures, the octagonal wooden landmark was built in the stick style from a design by Islander Samuel Freeman Pratt. Today it is owned and managed by Vineyard Trust. Just off Circuit Avenue in downtown Oak Bluffs, the house of worship is also a popular event venue. From the beginning, the chapel has been non-sectarian, with ministers and thought leaders from different denominations speaking each weekend during the summer season. Last year’s services were held virtually and can be viewed at unionchapelmv.org. Cultural events at Union Chapel are similarly diverse, ranging from live music to Jeanna Shepard

the annual Built on Stilts dance festival.

M O RE

10 1

THINGS TO DO 2

STROLL

GO FISH

GET FIT

S H A R K TA N K

T I M E T R AV E L

Ice cream in hand, stroll the boardwalk linking the harbor to the ferry wharf.

Catch the big one or see the sunrise off the public fishing pier.

Buy a day pass to the YMCA and enjoy the pool and dozens of classes.

Catch a Martha’s Vineyard Sharks baseball game at the high school.

Go back in history by walking the MV African American Heritage Trail.

FISH ON

GO FOR GOLD

PA D D L E

PA R K P I C N I C

GAME ON

Book a charter on the Skipper, the happiest fishing boat in O.B.

Reserve a bowling lane at The Barn, Bowl & Bistro.

Rent a kayak or paddleboard on Sengekontacket Pond.

Spend the evening on the lawn of Ocean Park with your favorite takeout.

Pick up kites, bubbles, frisbees, Kan Jam, or board games at Lazy Frog.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ORGANIC OLIVE OIL FAIR TRADE TREASURES

from Palestine, Guatemala, Haiti & beyond

Learn more at olivebranchfairtrade.org.

We are delighted to provide the island with toys, games and activities year-round! Come in and visit or shop online at

photo: Charlie Utz

TisburyToyBox.com

olive branch 459 State Road VH FA I R T R A D E Woodland Center #21

Puzzles

for Children & Adults

LEGO

774-563-3083 Wed - Sat 11 - 5

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Dolls

Board Games

Arts & Crafts

Baby & Toddler Toys

79 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven 508-693-8182

and more!

Apparel, accessories, gifts, home, decorative items and art.

Open Daily 10am - 6pm Memorial Day - Labor Day 18 Beach St. Vineyard Haven | 508.687.9972 info@shopmagneticnorth.com @SHOPMAGNETICNORTH

It’s so much more than a gift store… Your source for Unique island gifts & Decor OPEN 7 DAYS ALL YEAR 66 Main Street • Vineyard Haven 508.693.1830 shop online

rainydaymv.com

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

V I N E YA R D H A V E N Historic Holmes Hole is today’s year-round harbor town

Tim Johnson

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Chances are your first glimpse of the Island will be Vineyard Haven Harbor, where most of the Steamship Authority ferries arrive. Once called Holmes Hole, the harbor is still a haven for boats large and small, from the schooners Shenandoah and Alabama to the smallest rowing dinghy; it makes for a beautiful sight on arrival. Vineyard Haven (also known by its official name, Tisbury) is what Islanders call “the year-round town,” since many of the shops and businesses on Main Street and State Road stay open all year. From historic William Street to the beautiful drive out to West Chop and the lighthouse, there is plenty to see both on foot and by car in and around Vineyard Haven.

Fast Facts P O P U L AT I O N

4,509 AREA, SQ. MI.

1.6 ZIP CODE

02568 E L E V AT I O N , F E E T

Tim Johnson

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

A D AY A N D A N I G H T Tashmoo Ave.

I N V I N E YA R D H AV E N

Greenwood Ave.

Look St.

block west (uphill) to ' William Street,

VH -E dg

part of the historic district of Vineyard Haven. Many of the houses are Greek

destroyed by a fire in 1883. From William Street, walk down Church Street past the

(Martha’s Vineyard Playhouse, a ninety-

e at St

r St. Wate

d Rd. Pon oon g a L

St .

Main Street (see page 52), then head one

Visit & shops and galleries up and down

Union St.

Ca m

coffee at % Mocha Mott’s on Main Street.

( &) % Main St.

. Spring St

Begin your day in Vineyard Haven with

in town, since much of Main Street was

Church St.

Centre St.

Tim Johnson

Rd.

Colonial Ave.

Clough Ln.

revival and are among the oldest structures

Owen Park

William St.

Franklin St.

Crocker Ave.

. Rd

Beach Rd.

10 +

Rd .

Street to Owen Park Way and walk down to ! Owen Park. The small town beach

has a great view of the harbor and features

continue on past the lighthouse a bit to the West Chop Overlook for a stunning view of Vineyard Sound before retracing your route

a gazebo, a long grassy hill, and prime crab

into town. Make note of the historic ) Ca-

catching off the pier. You might find a bit of

pawock Theatre on your way back down

nine-seat professional theater housed

sea glass on the beach too. If you’re up for a

inside a beautifully repurposed 1833

long walk (about two miles each way), con-

meetinghouse. Step inside to view rotat-

tinue north on Main Street to the $ West

ing art exhibits. Next, turn left on Main

Chop Lighthouse (see page 104). Be sure to

Main Street and head to the * Black Dog

Tavern on the harbor or + ArtCliff Diner on Beach Road for lunch. After lunch, make 10 Tisyour way down Beach Road to the !

bury Marketplace to pick up seafood for dinner at the Net Result, to check out the MV Film Center, to take the kids to Tisbury Toy Box, or to make reservations for dinner at Beach Road Restaurant.

Peter Simon Tim Johnson

Vineyard Haven harbor fills up on a busy summer day.

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

IN TOWN

Stay | Vineyard Haven

S TAY I N N T O W N

Elizabeth Cecil

B E S T F LOW E R S

Flower Power Whimsy and charm define Morrice Florist, Emily Coulter’s flower and gift shop at 149 State Road. Shop for gorgeous bouquets, plants, housewares, books, and more – or start planning your wedding flowers.

Jeanna Shepard

The award-winning Nobnocket Boutique Inn (above and below) offers European style and warm personal service.

AT T H E C O R N E R of Main and Beach Streets in the heart of town, the Mansion House is the only full-service hotel in Vineyard Haven. It has a salon, a health club with an indoor pool, and the Copper Wok restaurant. It also has a great view of Vineyard Haven Harbor from its rooftop. Right outside of town on Mount Aldworth Road, the Nobnocket Boutique Inn bed and breakfast

Jeanna Shepard

has seven luxurious suites and a perfect record of five-star reviews on both Face-

book and Tripadvisor. Inn proprietors Annabelle and Simon Hunton combine a

Jeanna Shepard

sophisticated European decorating style

B E S T M OV I E T H E AT E R + F E S T I VA L

with thoughtful amenities and warm

MV Film Center

hospitality to make a stay at Nobnocket

The Island’s most comfortable movie

Haven. Other top-rated inns in town

theater also boasts a range of film festivals,

include Charles & Charles on Sum-

independent movie premieres, documen-

mer Street and Crocker House Inn on

one of the most pleasurable in Vineyard

taries, and hundreds of new movies every

Crocker Avenue. For a complete listing of

year. Virtual screenings debuted in 2020.

Tim Johnson

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

accommodations, see page 111. 51

IN TOWN

Shop | Vineyard Haven

SHOP:

MAIN STREET

Main Street in Vineyard Haven is lined with shops for all tastes and budgets. If you’re looking for books or gifts, clothing or jewelry, kitchenware or housewares, you’ll find them here.

women’s wear with a European sensibility and Vineyard practicality. Brickman’s is a long-established Vineyard clothing, footwear, sporting goods, and toy store. Lennox & Harvey is a modern take on

Several Main Street stores are

a home store with everything from pillows

perennial Best of the Vineyard winners

to backgammon sets. Just a slight dip off

(see below), including the Green Room

Main on Union Street, you’ll find painted

(clothing), CB Stark (jewelry), and Rainy

furniture, home goods, and Island art at

Day (gift shop). And the Island’s best

Coastal Supply Co. The Beach House

bookstore, Bunch of Grapes, is on Main

carries April Cornell and other designs

Street. Be sure to check out the Island

chosen for fresh Island decorating.

author shelves and the charming children’s

Longtime Island jewelry business

section on the second floor.

Claudia Jewelry curates fine jewelry from

With three floors, LeRoux at Home is

Island artisans and the work of noted

the Vineyard’s top destination for kitchen

designers from the U.S. and abroad. And

goods, tableware, small appliances, and accessories for the home. Stina Sayre Design showcases

Ray Ewing

Check out designer Stina Sayre’s latest at her shop on Main Street.

don’t miss Magnetic North, around the corner on Beach Street, for a beautiful selection of apparel and gifts.

Jeanna Shepard

B E S T S H O E S + C LOT H I N G S TO R E

BEST JEWELER

BEST GIFT SHOP

THE GREEN ROOM

C B S TA R K

R A I N Y D AY

The store for the quintessential Island

A pioneering Island jeweler, the late CB

If you need a present in a hurry, Rainy Day

sportster, The Green Room has the

Stark opened her store more than fifty

is the place to go. Everything from quality

surfing, hiking, and skating togs you want,

years ago and it’s still the go-to place for

Island souvenirs to high-end gifts is here

with outerwear, footwear, and gear from

Martha’s Vineyard charms and pendants

in one place. Find linens and tableware for

brands such as Patagonia, North Face,

as well as custom work. A silver bracelet

hostess gifts, children’s clothes, candles,

Frye, and Yeti. Shop for office togs too.

makes an elegant Vineyard souvenir.

notepaper, tote bags, and more.

71 Main Street.

53A Main Street.

66 Main Street.

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

IN TOWN

Eat | Vineyard Haven

CAUGHT IN THE NET

Fresh, fried, smoked, or sushi-ed.

Jeanna Shepard

E L G AT O G R A N D E is chef Spring Sheldon’s authentic taco truck. Based at the Cove Golf & Grill, the colorful truck also pops up at special events around the Island and is available for private parties too, from mid-May through October. Follow @elgatograndemv on Instagram.

Kelley DeBettencourt

BEST FISH MARKET

What’s for dinner? That’s easy to answer

prepared foods such as chowders, scallop

at the Net Result, where you’ll find a

plates, fish cakes, smoked fish, and sea-

huge array of fresh fish and shellfish as

weed salads. Or grab freshly made sushi,

well as house-made seafood sausage, fish

a lobster roll, fish and chips, or more from

stock, stuffies, and more. Don’t want to

the takeout window. Eat outside at the

cook your catch? Check out the variety of

picnic tables if you like.

THE DISH

From brigadeiros to rodizio, get a taste of Brazilian cooking at four spots in Tisbury. SWEET BITES

DINNER AND A DRINK

Don’t miss: brigadeiros, layer cakes. 294 State Road

liquor stores (head to Oak Bluffs or Ed-

It’s a specialty grocer with hot food to go.

gartown to shop) but several restaurants

Don’t miss: gluten-free products.

have a license to sell wine and beer, in-

BITE ON THE GO

cluding fine-dining destinations like

86 Beach Street

Beach Road (79 Beach Road), Garde

It’s a huge daily buffet; catering too.

East (52 Beach Road), and La Soffitta (82

Don’t miss: feijoada.

Main Street). Other spots that offer din-

GOLDEN BULL

ner and a drink include The Black Dog Tavern (20 Beach Street Extension), the House Café (339 State Road).

It’s a café and a cakerie in one.

V I N E YA R D G R O C E R

V I N E YA R D H AV E N does not have

Copper Wok (9 Main Street), and Little

32 Beach Street

13 Beach Street Extension Elizabeth Cecil

Vineyard bouillabaisse at Beach Road. M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

It’s a Brazilian steakhouse – rodizio style. Don’t miss: the salad bar. 53

IN TOWN

Explore | Vineyard Haven

D E S T I N AT I O N :

MV MUSEUM

Jeanna Shepard

O P E N E D T W O Y E A R S AG O, the new Martha’s Vineyard Museum in Vineyard Haven (151 Lagoon Pond Road) is now a premier destination for both tourists and Islanders alike. Situated on a hilltop Ray Ewing

overlooking Lagoon Pond, the museum undertook a massive renovation project to turn what was once the Marine Hospital into a glistening, 10,000-square-foot homage to the Island’s rich history. On the first floor, a permanent exhibit gives a thematic history of the Vineyard that uses time capsules with artifacts instead of timelines with dates to tell the story of the Island. Items such as a taxidermied heath hen, a scrimshaw model of the famed whaling vessel Charles W. Morgan, and a flag from the Vineyard secessionist movement in 1977 share wall space with oral histories from Island fishermen. Upstairs, the museum has more gallery

Ray Ewing

spaces to show temporary or rotating exhibitions. The highlight of the museum, however, is the fully restored Fresnel lens from the Gay Head Light, which serves as a brilliant and historic candelabra in the center of the museum’s western pavilion and café. Beneath it is a permanent exhibit about shipwrecks on the Island, and a Hands-on History exhibit for children. The museum is currently open, but preregistering for a time slot is required. For

Ray Ewing

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

more information, visit mvmuseum.org.

IN TOWN

Art & Entertainment | Vineyard Haven

A ROCK GARDEN FOR ROSE When stonemason and designer Lew French was asked to design a rock garden for poet and human rights activist Rose Styron, he discovered they had much in common – a connection to nature, a tendency to edit for rhythm and flow, and a desire to tell a story. Be a part of their story by visiting French’s completed design, a garden of stone and perspective just outside the main entrance of the museum. Take a seat and sit a spell.

Jeanna Shepard

EXTRA, EXTRA! What’s black and white and 175 years old this year? The Vineyard Gazette, which began printing back when Edgartown was still a whaling port, Oak Bluffs was a bluff covered with oaks, West Tisbury was Tisbury, and Vineyard Haven was Holmes Hole. Eventually a marine hospital appeared on the hill overlooking Vineyard Haven Harbor and the paper wrote about that. Then the hospital became a day camp, and the paper wrote about that. Finally the day camp became a beautiful museum, and the paper, of course, wrote about that too. Now it’s the museum’s turn to tell the story of the Gazette in a fascinating exhibit that opens this July. For more information, visit mvmuseum.org.

The Gazette's hot-lead press just before retirement in 1975. M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

IN TOWN

Local Knowledge | Vineyard Haven

DON’T MISS:

O W E N PA R K FROM SUNRISE TO SUNSET Owen Park is one of the sweetest spots in Vineyard Haven. Just off Main Street, the town park includes a family friendly beach (and public bathrooms!). A dinghy pier welcomes folks coming off their boats to shop in town and provides an ideal fishing spot for little ones. Launch a kayak (or yourself ) here early in the morning to enjoy the sunrise. A rolling lawn – perfect for picnics and enjoying those Grace Church lobster rolls – stretches down to the shore. Historically, on every other Sunday evening, the Vineyard Haven Band plays in the park, and other special events occur from time to time throughout the summer. Look for Owen Park Way, a right hand turn off Main Street Jeanna Shepard

just as you leave downtown.

M O RE

10 1

THINGS TO DO 2

I S L A N D E AT S

FA I R T R A D E

LO B BY A RT

F I R S T F R I D AY S

W E AT H E R O R N O T

Shop for Vineyardraised chickens, freshly baked bread, duck eggs, and more at The Larder.

Shop for ceramics, glassware, and olive oils from Palestine and Haiti at Olive Branch Fair Trade.

Look for the open sign at the historic MV Playhouse, where local artists exhibit in the lobby in season.

Enjoy live music, food, and shopping specials downtown every First Friday afternoon of the month.

Check out the custom weather vanes at Tuck & HolandGstudio on State Road.

HOLE IN ONE

CLICK CLUCK

L I T T L E B O AT S

CASTING CALL

SHOW TIME

Play a round of minigolf, then grab a taco or an ice cream cone at the Cove Golf & Grill.

Shop the famous thrift shop known as Chicken Alley for clothes, dishes, furniture, and art.

Rent a kayak or paddleboard on Lagoon Pond.

Drive the long dirt road out to the Lake Tashmoo Opening and cast for blues.

Take in an outdoor performance at the Tisbury Amphitheater next to Tashmoo Overlook.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

Tim Johnson

YOUR VISIT STARTS HERE!

Davis House Gallery 985 State Road, West Tisbury 508-693-4691 www.allenwhiting.com

SUMMER 2021 | Open By Appointment | 508-693-4691

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

U P- I S L A N D Farming, fishing, and fantastic views

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Pastoral, hilly, and marked by rough stone walls and winding dirt roads, up-Island is wildly beautiful and much less populated than down-Island. Each of the three up-Island towns has its own character. West Tisbury is the most populous of the three, with a mini-town center and deep agrarian roots. Enchanting Chilmark features breathtaking scenery and encompasses the fishing village of Menemsha. Aquinnah is home to many of the Island’s Wampanoags, the Native American tribe that originally settled here on the Island they named Noepe (“dry land amid waters”). And the Wampanoags are stewards of the Island’s most stunning natural feature, the multicolored clay cliffs of Gay Head.

Fast Facts P O P U L AT I O N

5,037 AREA, SQ. MI.

52.1 FA R M S

21 LIGHTHOUSES

Larry Glick

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

A D AY A N D A N I G H T

UP-ISLAND !

! Cedar

Rd .

Tree Neck Sanctuary in West Tisbury.

N or

From there you can head right over to the " farmers’ market at the Agricultural Society

yR d. nt

)

% $( *

st Tisbury Rd.

. Rd

th ou

. Rd

Tisbury Great Pond

. Rd

Menemsha Pond

Sta t

AQUINNAH

p a Tr il

$ Alley’s General Store,

ouse Rd. ht h Lig Stat e Rd .

You must stop at

Head into the heart of West Tisbury.

flowers at Mermaid Farm & Dairy.)

other morning you can hit one of the many

and Farm or yogurt, veggies, cheese, and

CHILMARK

a Te

Saturday morning during the season. (Any

cheese, bread, and veggies at the Grey Barn

Edgartown - We

fairgrounds on either a Wednesday or

up-Island farm stands nearby. Pick up meat,

H i l l Rd .

dC ou

the scenic trails. A lovely property that combines woods and beach is

WEST TISBURY

are cooler) is a great time to walk one of

eR d.

I nd

in the woods. Early morning (when temps

Sta t

Start your day up-Island by losing yourself

the jam-packed shopping and social center

Squibnocket Pond

of town that has your newspapers, your

beach umbrellas, your barbecue tools – your everything. Behind Alley’s is % 7a Foods, a

Maley’s playful sculptures in the garden. Head to ) The Granary Gallery on Old

and mixed media artwork.

wiches. The West Tisbury Public Library is an excellent rainy day destination. Fill up the

County Road for rotating exhibits of the best

the + Chilmark Store for snacks. Then

car at Up-Island Auto.

Island painters and photographers as well as

continue on to Aquinnah to visit the , Gay

a selection of antiques. Drive up South Road

Head Lighthouse, explore the Aquinnah

to the charming

shops at the cliffs (page 69), and spend the

town favorite for coffee, pastries, and sand-

Next, treat yourself to a short tour of some of up-Island’s fine art galleries. Check out the ( Field Gallery to see Thomas

* Kara Taylor Gallery

(located in a field) to see Kara’s oil paintings

Drive west up South Road. Stop at

10 Moshup Beach (page 76). afternoon on +

Wander down the shore for a close-up view of the multicolored cliffs, but be aware that nude sunbathers might be on the beach to the west. On the way home, stop in the village of

11 Menemsha (page 66), get a lobster and a ,

cup of chowder from one of the fish markets, and dine outside while overlooking the harbor and watching the sunset. (Be aware that the parking lot fills up early before sunset.) Be sure to get soft-serve ice cream at the

12 Galley. Or if you’d prefer a restau)

rant dinner, visit State Road Restaurant, Chilmark Tavern, the Outermost Inn, or Woods retaurant at Lambert’s Cove Inn. End the evening with stargazing. Tim Johnson

To catch one of the best views on the Island, drive from West Tisbury along South Road through Chilmark. Just past the entrance to Allen Farm (on your right if heading west), you'll see a turnoff to a small parking area on the left where you can look over pasture to the south shore beyond. 62

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Vineyard skies – particularly those over the south shore – lack the mainland’s light

13 Squibnocket Beach, open pollution. Try -

to nonresidents at 5 p.m.

IN TOWN

Stay | Up-Island

S TAY W I T H A V I E W

For peace and quiet – and stunning scenery – choose a small inn or B&B up-Island.

Ray Ewing

BOOK A ROOM The poet’s house For more than thirty years, mystery writer Cynthia Riggs has welcomed visitors – especially writers and poets – to her West Tisbury bed and breakfast. The Cleaveland House has been in her family for eight generations, built by James Athearn 250 years ago. Simple, rustic, and charming, the house features large bedrooms (some with fireplaces) and shared baths. And of course there are plenty of good books to read, including Riggs’s Victoria Trumbull mysteries and books by Riggs’s Peter Simon

mother, poet Dionis Coffin Riggs.

C H A R M I N G I N N S are your best bet for this picturesque part of the Island. In West Tisbury, Lambert’s Cove Inn (90 Manaquayak Road) is a fifteen-room property set on an eight-acre farmstead close to the beach with the restaurant Woods right on site. In Chilmark, the Captain Flanders House (440 North Road) is an eighteenth-century whaling captain’s farmhouse renovated as a bed and breakfast. The thirteen-room Beach Plum Inn (50 Beach Plum Lane), has access to Menemsha Beach and is available for wedding ceremonies and receptions. Menemsha Inn & Cottages (12 Menemsha Inn Road) has fifteen luxurious rooms, a suite, three cottages, and breathtaking views of the North Shore.

Mark Lovewell

The Beach Plum Inn in Menemsha is available for wedding ceremonies and receptions.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

IN TOWN

Browse | Up-Island

GOOD MORNING, WEST TISBURY

Start your day with a breakfast sandwich from 7a Foods, a newspaper from Alley’s General Store, and a stroll through the Field Gallery.

Jeanna Shepard

AT T H E H E A R T of town lies Alley’s

Sharing a parking lot with Alley’s is

rotating shows by distinguished Island

General Store, an 1858 building with the

7aFoods, serving some of the best-loved

distinction of being the Island’s longest

breakfast and lunch sandwiches on the

running retail business. Owned and main-

Island. Prepare to wait in a short line,

tional Church of West Tisbury welcomes

tained today by Vineyard Trust, Alley’s

pandemic or not.

everyone for Sunday services — and

still stocks everything you’d want from

Across the street, the award-winning

artists. Across the street, the First Congrega-

to the strawberry festival in June and a

a general store, from coffee and newspa-

West Tisbury Public Library has free

pers to hardware and garden tools. And

Wi-Fi and scads of programs for kids

just like an old-fashioned general store,

and adults alike. The library has some

Up-Island Auto for gas) is the historic

Alley’s is a gathering spot, a place to say

outdoor seating, too. Next door, Tom

Grange Hall. In a normal year, events

hi to your neighbors in the morning, or to

Maley’s whimsical sculptures beckon

and artisan markets take place here

check in at the end of the workday.

visitors to the Field Gallery, home to

almost every day of the week.

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

peach festival later in the summer. The last stop in town (other than

IN TOWN

Eat | Up-Island

THE GOODS Up-Island is rich hunting ground for artisan goodies. Here are a few great finds.

T H AT PA S T R Y

D A I LY B R E A D

A brunch stop at State Road restaurant is

You could live off this stuff: the Grey Barn

essential for baker Leslie Hewson's famed

and Farm’s artisan loaves, from whole

pastries. Don't miss the limpopo, a cinna-

wheat boules to Japanese milk bread.

mon sugar brioche donut without the hole.

Don’t forget the award-winning cheese. 22 South Road, Chilmark.

THE SANDWICH

SEE, SCALLOPS

The Liz Lemon is epic: house-made pastra-

The fishing vessel Martha Rose made a big

mi, turkey, swiss, cole slaw, Russian dress-

impression with freshly caught sea scal-

ing, and potato chips on rye bread. Find it at 7aFoods. 1045 State Road, West Tisbury.

lops unloaded and sold right on the dock Molly Glasgow

in Menemsha last spring. Look for them at the farmers’ market this year or check fvmartharose.co for locations.

THE CONE A soft-serve cone from the Menemsha Gal-

LASSO A LASSI

ley is a rite of passage. Sit on the back porch

Mermaid Farm & Dairy in Chilmark has

or walk around to look at the fishing shacks.

a herd of Jersey cows producing raw milk,

Chocolate dipped? Yes.

whole milk yogurt, and four flavors of

515 North Road, Menemsha.

lassi, a delicious yogurt drink. Tim Johnson

9 Middle Road, Chilmark.

A B OX O F C H O C O L AT E S

DINNER TO GO

New in 2020, Salt Rock Chocolates is con-

During the pandemic, Chilmark Tavern

tinuing the tradition started by Chilmark

upped their takeout game with everything

Chocolates of up-Island handmade choco-

from fried chicken to pad thai. More like

lates. Find them at the farmers’ market or

this ahead in 2021, plus outdoor seating.

online at saltrockchocolate.com.

9 State Road, Chilmark

P I Z Z A BY T H E S L I C E

C H OW-C H OW D E R

Grab a slice, a newspaper, and a spot on the

Grab a cup of freshly made chowder at

porch for some excellent people watching at

Larsen’s Fish Market, and sit on the wharf

the Chilmark General Store. 7 State Road, Chilmark.

to watch the fishing boats unload and filet Jeanna Shepard

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

their catch. 56 Basin Road, Menemsha. 65

IN TOWN

Explore | Up-Island

D E S T I N AT I O N :

MENEMSHA

Tim Johnson

A N Y U P - I S L A N D J A U N T must include a side trip to the fishing village of Menemsha. You can stroll the wharves and watch the boats unload their catch while you eat a fresh lobster roll or a freshly steamed lobster dockside. Pick up fresh fish to take home for dinner too. Cousins Betsy Larsen and Stanley Larsen each operate a fish store on Basin Road — take your pick! Visiting the village during the daytime is fun because you can browse the row of shops along Basin Road too. Shop Pandora’s Box for quintessentially

Larry Glick

summer Vineyard clothing and Menemsha Blues for T-shirts and hoodies.

watching is so spectacular. If you plan

There’s an antiques- and collectibles

on being part of the sunset crowd, you’ll

store and an old-school ship’s chandlery

want to head up to Menemsha early.

as well. Bring your bathing suit, some

Get a soft-serve ice cream cone from

beach chairs and a good book, if you

the Galley (page 65), then pick out your

like — Menemsha beach is open to the

viewing spot.

public and kid friendly, too. Be sure to

Menemsha has public restrooms

take a photo of sculptor Jay Lagemann’s

but very little parking. Fill up at the

iconic Swordfish Harpooner.

Menemsha Texaco if you need to, then

But while a daytime visit is nice,

backtrack to Tabor House Road and

early evening is the most popular time

park in the free lot to take a shuttle back

to visit Menemsha because the sunset

in for sunset viewing.

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Jeanna Shepard

A new generation of Island fishermen helps sort the catch on the wharves of Menemsha.

IN TOWN

Art & Entertainment | Up-Island

GALLERY GRAZING

Up-Island galleries are indoor-outdoor experiences.

Ray Ewing

More to Explore Both emerging and long-established artists find special inspiration in working and exhibiting up-Island. Their studios and galleries (as well as a few other multi-artist studios) are most often open by appointment, for advertised events, or during seasonal hours. Visit their websites (and Mark Lovewell

Make the Granary Gallery (above) and MV Glassworks (right) two stops on your West Tisbury tour.

follow them on Instagram) for updates.

A G A L L E RY Contemporary fine art from the Vine-

G R A N A RY G A L L E RY

K A R A TAY L O R

Open year-round in the iconic red barn

Island artist Kara Taylor’s gallery is in a

on Old County Road, Granary offers

field where she features outdoor artwork

DAV I S H O U S E

a stunning mix of contemporary and

by Island sculptors. The interior is devot-

twentieth-century artworks, fine crafts,

ed to her own paintings and mixed-media

Studio and gallery of well-known Island

and antiques (granarygallery.com).

work (karataylorart.com).

F I E L D G A L L E RY

MV GLASSWORKS

With frolicsome sculptures by Tom

A studio, gallery, and shop in one, this

Maley and stonework by Lew French out-

state-of-the-art glass-blowing business

side, the seasonal Field Gallery represents

founded in 1992 features both expert

R U E L G A L L E RY

a changing mix of contemporary artists

craftsmanship and an educational mission

Home of painter Colin Ruel and jeweler

indoors (fieldgallery.com).

(mvglassworks.com).

Nettie Kent’s work (ruelgallery.com).

yard and beyond (agallery.org).

painter Allen Whiting (allenwhiting.com).

S A R G E N T G A L L E RY Aquinnah gallery dedicated to environmental art (sargentgallery.org).

T H E F L E X I B L E B O O K F E S T I VA L

Jeanna Shepard

This year’s Martha’s Vineyard Book Festi-

fiction and memoir writing, while also of-

val, planned for August 6 –10, is pivoting

fering expert discussions on topics ranging

to a part-live, part-virtual format. Talks and

from politics and racism to climate change

panel discussions with national authors will

and culture. The Vineyard Gazette will be

occur live every day for a ticketed audience,

a sponsor; Bunch of Grapes bookstore will

while events will also be live streamed for

provide book sales. For more information,

free. The festival will highlight hot new

visit mvbookfestival.com.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

2021 FREE

Martha’s Vineyard

REAL ESTATE YEARBOOK TRANSACTIONS | NEIGHBORHOOD DESCRIPTIONS | ANALYSIS OF TRENDS

AN ES S EN T IA L R ES OUR CE for both home buyers and sellers with details of every property sold by town, plus neighborhood descriptions, useful statistics, charts and graphs, a directory of real estate agents and appraisers, and more.

PICK UP A COPY

O N N E W S S TA N D S N O W A publication of the

or order at vineyardgazettestore.com

In partnership with

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

IN TOWN

Local Knowledge | Up-Island

DON'T MISS:

THE CLIFFS Nothing’s better than breakfast at the Aquinnah Shop Restaurant, perched on the Gay Head Cliffs with a killer view of Vineyard Sound (left). After breakfast, shop for authentic Island-made wampum jewelry and other traditional Wampanoag craft, as well as souvenirs and T-shirts, from the shops clustered on the path up to the best view on the Island, the Aquinnah Overlook. The Gay Head Light (page 104) will be to your right, with the Aquinnah Cultural Center and a view of Moshup Beach below you. If you arrive at lunchtime, pick up a sandwich or pastry from the Orange Peel Cafe. Or visit at dusk when the view of the sunset from the Overlook is unsurpassed. For more information on the WampaMark Lovewell

noag tribe, see page 92.

M O RE

10 1

THINGS TO DO 2

TO M A R K E T

DAW N TO D U S K

GET SMART

KIDS & KIDS

GO GREEN

Wednesdays and Saturdays, check out the West Tisbury Farmers’ Market at the ag hall (p. 88).

Wander Polly Hill Arboretum’s twenty acres of cultivated plants and forty acres of woodlands.

Learn about Wampanoag history at the Tribe’s cultural center in Aquinnah.

Visit the pygmy goats and chickens at Native Earth Teaching Farm in Chilmark.

Pick up flowers, herbs, and perennials at Vineyard Gardens and Middletown Nursery.

J OY R I D E

SHORT CUT

T H E LO N G R OA D

SIT A SPELL

SNAPS

Stop into Tending Joy, a cheerful gift shop in North Tisbury.

Take the bike ferry from Menemsha to Lobsterville in Aquinnah.

Walk the trails from pine forest to beach at Long Point Wildlife Refuge.

Grab a bite and hang out on the front porch of the Chilmark General Store.

Take a selfie with Jay Lagemann’s swordfisherman sculpture in Menemsha.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

Larry Glick

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

OUTSIDE While the individual towns of

swimming holes, pocket parks,

Martha’s Vineyard are undeni-

and lighthouses – all of them

ably charming, if you limit your

graced by a seemingly endless

visit to walking the villages and

supply of gorgeous views.

frequenting the town beaches you’ll miss much of the very thing that makes the Island unique: its diverse and impressive natural beauty.

Add in the golf courses, tennis courts, sailboat rentals, fishing charters, and more, and there’s no excuse (except for perhaps an unseasonable northeaster) not

Hidden away down dirt roads,

to venture beyond the towns and

beyond stone walls, and over the

enjoy the kind of outdoor experi-

sandy dunes, lie mossy woodland

ences that are hard to duplicate

walking trails, crescent beaches,

on the mainland. Fill up on Vine-

working farms and waterfronts,

yard beauty while you can.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

LOCAL FAV O R I T E S An Opinionated Guide to Beaches, Lighthouses, Farm Stands, and Trails

Even if you washed ashore on the Island and decided to stay for the next fifty years, you’d probably never be able to make it to every hiking trail, beach, lighthouse, and farm stand on

the Island. If you’ve only got a week or a week-

end, deciding what to see is even more tricky.

What to do? Take a cue from the folks who live here year-round. Here are some of the favorites on Islanders’ must-see lists.

Lobsterville Beach

Walk, swim, and fish the two miles of beautiful Vineyard Sound beach and dunes on Lobsterville Road. Open to all, but parking is limited along the road.

T1 B7 L4

F6 F2

F7 T4

B4 F8

Polly Hill Arboretum Horticulturalist Polly Hill spent fifty years developing this landmark garden containing rare trees and shrubs from around the world. Open sunrise to sunset.

ND D G GU UIID DEE 22002211 IISSLLAAN

OUTSIDE

Local Favorites

B8 T10

LIGHTHOUSES

FA R M S

TRAILS

1 . South Beach

1 . Edgartown Light

1 . Morning Glory

1 . Menemsha Hills

2 . State Beach

2 . East Chop Light

2 . The Grey Barn

2 . Cedar Tree Neck

3 . Lighthouse Beach

3 . West Chop Light

3 . Ghost Island Farm

3 . Felix Neck Wildlife

4 . Lobsterville Beach

4 . Gay Head Light

4 . Slip Away Farm

5 . Long Point Beach

5 . Cape Pogue Light

5 . Mermaid Farm

4 . Long Point

6 . Moshup Beach

6 . Farmers’ Market

5 . Polly Hill

7. Menemsha Beach

7. North Tabor Farm

8 . the Inkwell

8 . Allen Farm

6 . Sheriff ’s Pond

9 . Bayes Norton Farm

7. Waskosim’s Rock

BEACHES

Sanctuary

Arboretum

8 . Mytoi Gardens 9 . West Chop Woods L5 T3

1 0 . Farm Pond Preserve

B3 T6

Edgartown Lighthouse

L1 F4

The Edgartown Harbor Light is accessible via a sandy causeway and is open weekends starting late May and daily from late June to September.

Morning Glory Farm With over sixty acres of vegetables in cultivation, Morning Glory’s farm store is the place to stop in high summer for justpicked corn, tomatoes, squash, and more.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

OUTSIDE

Beaches

SIX BEACHES, SIX PERSONALITIES Check out our beach matchmaker and find one that suits your style. What’s your ideal Island beach? Does it have waves for bodysurfing or calm shallows for little kids? Do you wake up early for the sunrise, or would you prefer watching the sun set over the water? Want to bring the dog? The kayak? However you define the perfect beach, chances are good we have one. And while we only have room to highlight six here, we think you’ll find a perfect match. Take note that while these six beaches are among the many public beaches on Martha’s Vineyard, there are also private and town beaches on the Island that require either permission or permits for visiting. Last year, the Island followed Governor Baker’s recommendations for social distancing and small groups on the beach. Check mvol.com for updated information this summer.

Alexander R. Wilcox Cheek

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

OUTSIDE

Beaches

T H E D O G G I E S T B E AC H :

Lighthouse Beach A short stroll from downtown Edgartown, Lighthouse Beach and its adjoining Fuller Street Beach are perfect walking and shell-hunting beaches. The beaches follow the town’s leash law, so dogs are permitted as long as they are leashed. One of the Island’s most photographed spots, with its gleaming white lighthouse (open for tours in season), wide views, and spectacular sunrises over Chappy, Lighthouse Beach is also a perfect spot to watch the parade of boats sailing in to and out of the harbor. Use restrooms in Ray Ewing

town.

T H E W I L D E S T B E AC H :

Long Point While birds and other creatures are the main event at the 600-acre Long Point Wildlife Refuge – which has easy hiking trails through woodlands and sand barrens – the beach is a powerful attraction as well. Like South Beach, its waves make for fun, if sometimes dangerous, swimming, though calmer waters on the pond side are an option. (Kayak and paddleboard rentals are available on the pond.) The refuge provides restrooms, picnic tables, and paid parking that fills quickly: Watch for signs on the Edgartown– Martha's Vineyard Magazine Archive

West Tisbury Road. Dogs are prohibited.

T H E W E S T E R N M O S T B E AC H :

Moshup Visiting this ocean beach along the Gay Head Cliffs takes commitment: a hefty parking fee and tenminute walk from the lot are not for everyone, but the swimming and scenery at Moshup (also called Aquinnah Beach) make it easy to spend a day here. On a clear day, the small island of Noman’s Land is visible offshore. The colorful clay cliffs are appealing but off limits: They’re a national landmark belonging to the Wampanoag; disturbing them is illegal. Pets are not permitted. Another caveat: you may see nude Jeanna Shepard

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

bathers. Restrooms are located near the parking lot.

OUTSIDE

Beaches

T H E E A S I E S T B E AC H :

State Beach All you have to do to get to Joseph A. Sylvia State Beach, a two-mile stretch that spans Edgartown and Oak Bluffs, is pull over (or park your bike or hop off a bus) along Beach Road. (Arriving before 10 a.m. is advisable; parking spots are plentiful but they do fill up.) There’s a walkway every few hundred feet, including wooden ramps near handicapped parking. The shallow waters of Nantucket Sound make for safe swimming, and at the Edgartown end, Bend in the Road Beach has lifeguards in season. No dogs from April 1 to August 31. There are no restrooms.

Maria Thibodeau

T H E L I V E L I E S T B E AC H :

South Beach If you want to swim and bodysurf in big waves, South Beach at Katama is the place to go. The longest stretch of public beach on the Vineyard, South Beach is popular with families and large groups. The smooth sand along the water’s edge is perfect for beach walking, though erosion continues to affect the shape of the beach. Also be aware that rip currents and undertow can make the surf hazardous; check at a lifeguard tower for the latest conditions. Dogs are not allowed; parking is free. Tim Johnson

Restrooms and changing rooms provided.

T H E I N -T O W N B E AC H :

Inkwell Convenient and accessible, the stretch of Nantucket Sound called the Inkwell has long been a popular spot for moms and kids as well as swimmers of all ages. Historic reports indicate that Martin Luther King Jr. swam at the Inkwell, along with countless other celebrities, film and television stars. Located alongside Waban Park, this Oak Bluffs beach is also a great spot to watch ferries and boats come and go. Mid-May to mid-September, dogs are not allowed between 7 a.m. and 5 p.m. Use restrooms in town. Wheelchair ramps to the beach are available.

Peter Simon

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

HAPPY TRAILS Lace up your boots: with more than 100 trails, the Vineyard is an Island just made for walking. BY HOLLY PRETSKY

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Ray Ewing

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

OUTSIDE

Trails

Brian Jolley

artha’s Vineyard is famous around the world for its beaches, but

Islanders know that to find some of the Vineyard’s most beautiful spots, one needs to be willing to stray from the shore. There are almost 20,000 acres of conserved land on the Island and almost as many ways to explore and appreciate them. From the time the first snowdrops and forsythia bloom in spring to the changing of brilliant fall foliage, there is no amount of ennui that can’t be over-

come by a dirt path, a quiet creek, a stone wall, a distant blinking lighthouse. The unparalleled public access to well-groomed trails and undisturbed nature around the Island is no accident. It’s the result of decades of thoughtful and strategic acquisition and hard work. A Mark Lovewell

Top: the walk down to Moshup Beach is worth it. Bottom: beauty reveals itself at every turn on the long, winding walk through Menemsha Hills down to the North Shore. 82

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

strong sense of conservation for the public good and for the flora and fauna of the Island has protected Vineyard land

OUTSIDE

Trails

visitor who follows them with a little bit of openness and curiosity. Even day-trip visitors without transportation can access trails easily and speedily from down-Island towns. In Edgartown, take a walk around Sheriff’s Pond in Sheriff’s Meadow Sanctuary (page 33), tucked away just minutes from downtown. In Tisbury, the West Chop Woods preserve is just a short walk up Main Street. And a little ways down State Road is the rambling Tisbury Meadow Preserve with a network of wooded rolling hills and ancient ways. In Oak Bluffs, the Farm Pond Preserve, and all the birds around it, are accessible just a little more than half a mile from Ocean Park. Tim Johnson

Walking the Brickyard on the North Shore, you’ll not only get stunning views of Vineyard Sound, but also a look at remnants of the 19th century brickworks, including its iconic 45-foot-chimney.

For those able to travel up-Island, the Tiasquam Valley and Waskosim’s Rock reserves on the border of West Tisbury and Chilmark offer seemingly endless

since before the development boom of the

the best source for trail maps. The guide,

interconnecting routes. Visitors will find

1980s, and continues to endure today.

available in Island bookstores, contains

an old bridge crossing Mill Brook and the

maps and descriptions of more than sixty

foundation of an old farmstead. At the top

cated to the preservation and manage-

trails and includes a popular checklist for

of a steep hill, enjoy a view of the Island all

ment of land. Since 1986, the Martha’s

hikers who want to be sure they’ve visited

the way to Vineyard Haven.

Vineyard Land Bank Commission has

each trail. But since 2018, hikers have

been tasked with acquiring and managing

also had the option of downloading the

Reservation, managed by the Trustees

public spaces using a 2 percent transfer

free TrailsMV app, created by Sheriff’s

of Reservations, is a perennial favorite.

fee on every real estate transaction that

Meadow Foundation. Once downloaded,

Last year the Trustees opened the

takes place on the Island. The land bank

the useful app uses GPS to locate your

Brickyard trail (adjacent to Menemsha

manages some seventy properties, all

position on any trail on the Island. (For

Hills), making this long and scenic walk a

clearly marked with signs showing their

more information, visit sheriffsmeadow.

time-travel experience too. Visitors can

distinctive logo.

org/trailsmv-app).

view the remains of the once-thriving

There are multiple organizations dedi-

Most years, the land bank hosts an

Trails are generally open to the public

In Chilmark, the Menemsha Hills

Vineyard brickyard located on the North

early summer cross-Island hike, an all-day

from sunup to sundown, and hikers are

Shore while taking in stunning views of

odyssey linking a host of public trails. The

expected to respect adjacent property

the Sound as well.

hike draws dozens of participants and is

owners by keeping their voices down and

an excellent opportunity to learn about

being sure to pick up litter.

new trails. Just walking a leg or two is fine:

Almost anywhere on the Island, you

Many of the best spots, though, are those discovered by accident. Next time you see a land bank sign (or any trail

only a hardy few complete the entire walk.

will find yourself within walking distance

sign!), do yourself a favor and pull over.

Indispensable to the Vineyard hiker

of a trail or reserve (see the map on page

You never know what you might find.

are two guides, one in print, the other an

74 for some of our favorites). The paths

app. For many years, Walking Trails of

often connect to one another in surpris-

Holly Pretsky is a former Vineyard Gazette

Martha’s Vineyard, by William Flender of

ing ways, sometimes opening up onto a

reporter living, writing, and editing in New

the Vineyard Conservation Society, was

hidden meadow or pond, rewarding the

York.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

FA R M CHARM Visiting farm stands and shopping at the West Tisbury Farmers’ Market are two of the best ways to get to know Martha’s Vineyard. Martha’s Vineyard has more than thirty commercial farms, a farmers’ market that has operated continuously for forty-seven years, an agricultural fair that’s 160 years old, and many nonprofits dedicated to supporting the Island food community and to preserving land. It’s fair to say that agriculture is a big deal here. 84

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

OUTSIDE

Farms

When you leave the Grey Barn and Farm farm stand, your tote bag will be overflowing with artisan bread, award-winning cheees, organic meat, and fresh vegetables — all made, raised, and grown on the farm.

M A R T H A ’ S V I N E Y A R D Ray Ewing

OUTSIDE

Farms

P I G S & G OAT S & C H I C K E N S , O H M Y ! SIX TO TRY T O U R A N OYS T E R FA R M with Cottage City Oysters (cottagecityoysters. com). Hop on a launch at the hatchery and travel across Lagoon Pond to the farm.

C E L E B R AT E T H E H A R V E S T at the strawberry or pumpkin festivals held in June and October at Morning Glory Farm (morningloryfarm.com) in Edgartown.

S I G N U P F O R A W O R K S H O P at Slough Farm in Katama (sloughfarm.org). Gardening, cooking, sewing, and yoga are all on the calendar.

T RY G OAT YO G A or bring the kids to meet the animals at Native Earth Teaching Farm (nativeearthteachingfarm.org) in Chilmark. Brian Jolley

The Island is home to some very fine swine!

Adults and kids alike love these friendly

I T ’ S A L O T O F F U N to get in the

farm, you’ll need to sign up for a tour or

car, cash or Venmo in hand, and drive

participate in scheduled programming at

around Martha’s Vineyard to different

one of the bigger farms. This is because

farm stands, where you’ll find varieties of

most farms aren’t open to the public on

produce you’d never see in the grocery

a daily basis (and some not at all). They

store, not to mention artisan bread and

simply can’t afford the time or personnel

cheese and a wealth of other Island-made

it would take to guide visitors safely

products.

around the farm while keeping livestock

Many smaller farms on the Vineyard

a farm or wander beyond the farm stand

farms have farm stores, and most farms

area if not invited! demic) season, there are tours and events

both, see page 88).

at farms that give you the insider view.

at the Grey Barn and Farm in Chilmark (thegreybarnandfarm.com).

Check out our sample list of typical

access to farm products, you should bear

events (at right); then visit eventsmv.com

in mind that to see the working side of a

for 2021 dates and availability.

TA S T E T H E C H E E S E (award-winning cheese!) at a scheduled tasting or tour

Fortunately, in a regular (non-pan-

Tisbury Farmers’ Market. (For details on So while these sources give you great

and colorful animals.

and crops safe too. Never open a gate on

have self-serve farm stands, a few bigger participate in the twice-weekly West

V I S T T H E A L PAC A S at Island Alpaca in Oak Bluffs (islandalpaca.com).

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Ray Ewing

Martha’s Vineyard Magazine

COOK THE VINEYARD Sponsored by Cronig’s Market and the Net Result

Corn, zucchini, and fresh herb pancakes

WHAT’S IN SEASON, WHERE TO FIND IT, HOW TO COOK IT.

Your guide to and

cooking

eating deliciously

on the Vineyard. Find more than 500 recipes and sign up to receive our FREE weekly newsletter at cookthevineyard.com

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

OUTSIDE

Farms

I N O . B . , S U N D AY I S M A R K E T D AY Mixing it up on Sunday mornings in Washington Park, the Oak Bluffs Open Market is one part flea market and one part artisan fair, with a dash of farmers’ market and a hit of live music to round things off. From 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., late May through mid-September, a lively mix of vendors sells everything from wampum jewelry to birdbaths, baby potatoes to egg rolls.

Jeanna Shepard

Tucker Pforzheimer, cofounder of Martha's Vineyard Mycological, brings the shiitake mushroom harvest right to the market every week.

KEEP ON TRUCKIN’ T H E W E S T T I S B U RY FA R M E R S ’ M A R K E T Maria Thibodeau

FOLLOW THE MOBILE MARKET

Founded in 1974, the West Tisbury

year’s (outdoor) Saturday market ran

Farmers’ Market is still going strong after

a few weeks later. This was in place of

forty-seven years. In fact, the market

moving the market indoors for the early

pivoted so successfully during the pan-

winter, a tradition started several years

demic – moving from the old Grange Hall

ago (and always held inside the main hall

to the Agricultural Society fairgrounds

of the ag society). Additionally, there is

Nonprofit organization Island Grown

last summer – that market organizers are

a Wednesday market that typically runs

Initiative sponsors a mobile produce

eager for town approval to remain in the

from the third week in June through

market that rotates around the Island,

new location this year. The ag fairgrounds

Labor Day weekend.

bringing fresh veggies and eggs closer

offered not only more room to move

to the elderly and those Islanders who

around, but a better flow from booth to

fresh vegetables and flowers to honey,

participate in food assistance programs

booth too. Vendors and shoppers alike

bread, sea salt, cheese, meat, pies, herbs,

(though no proof of income is required).

loved it.

chocolates, soaps, coffee, and even oysters

For more information and to learn

The Saturday edition of the market

more about Island Grown’s food equity

typically runs from the second week in

programs, visit igimv.org\food-equity.

June through early October, though last

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Both days you’ll find everything from

and other shellfish. For more information on the 2021 dates and location, visit wtfmarket.org.

OUTSIDE

Farms

V I S I T A FA R M S TA N D N O T E V E RY FA R M on the Island has an onsite retail location, but many do have small self-serve stands, and a few have farm stores. Reminders: keep your dog in the car, don’t wander around farm grounds beyond the stand without permission from a farmer, and know that farmers work nonstop during the season, so be mindful of interrupting

C H A P PA Q U I D D I C K

V I N E YA R D H AV E N

Chappaquiddick Farmers’ Market: 180

Bakehouse Farm: 977 State Road,

Chappaquiddick Road, Chappaquiddick

Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6633

508-627-8222

Island Grown Initiative’s Farm Hub:

Slip Away Farm: 199 Chappaquiddick

80 Stoney Hill Road, Vineyard Haven

Road, Chappaquiddick · 508-627-7465

508-687-9062

their work. Bring cash and a shopping bag.

CHILMARK

Some vendors now have Venmo.

The Allen Farm Sheep & Wool Company:

The Larder: 342 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-687-9641

421 South Road, Chilmark · 508-645-9064

WEST TISBURY

Glory Farm’s is the biggest. Open from

Beetlebung Farm: 410 Middle Road,

Alley’s Farm Stand: 1041 State Road,

April through early winter, the store offers a

Chilmark

West Tisbury · 508-693-0088

huge variety of their own vegetables, meat,

The Grey Barn and Farm: 22 South Road,

Blackwater Farm: 40 Cottle Lane, West

and eggs, as well as products from other

Chilmark · 508-645-4854

Tisbury · 508-693-9785

farms. They have an excellent cheese selec-

Mermaid Farm and Dairy: 9 Middle

Ghost Island Farm: 27 Davis Look Road,

tion, freshly baked pies and pastries, and

Road, Chilmark · 508-645-3492

West Tisbury · 508-693-5161

meals to go as well. Ghost Island Farm has

Native Earth Teaching Farm: 94 North

North Tisbury Farm & Market: 632 State

their own greens and veggies as well as a big

Road, Chilmark · 508-645-3304

Road, West Tisbury · 508-696-4664

selection of Island-made artisanal products.

North Tabor Farm: 4 North Tabor Farm

Stoney Hill Farm: 196 Stoney Hill Road,

The farm instituted a preorder only policy

Road, Chilmark · 508-645-3311

West Tisbury · 508-696-9486

Of the indoor farm “stores,” Morning

(with outdoor pickup) in 2020. To place an order, go to ghostislandfarm.square.site. The Grey Barn and Farm’s farm stand is open year-round, selling their own meat, award-winning cheeses, vegetables, and artisan bread baked in the farm bakery. North Tabor Farm built a new indoor farm stand in 2020 and has expanded their inventory beyond their own popular greens

EDGARTOWN The FARM Institute: 14 Aero Avenue · Katama · 508-627-7007 Morning Glory Farm: 120 Meshacket Road, Edgartown · 508-627-9003 Slough Farm: 15 Butler’s Cove Road, Katama, Edgartown

mixes, veggies, eggs, and meat. Mermaid Farm farm stand is open year round; fridges are stocked with cheese, meat, pea shoots, yogurt, and lassis. Allen Farm has lamb and all manner of woolen products. Look for the “open” sign on South Road. In season, Bayes Norton Farm is known for its strawberries. Slip Away Farm on Chappaquiddick has a seasonal sheltered farm stand. The Larder in Vineyard Haven and

OAK BLUFFS Bayes Norton Farm: 223 Edgartown– Vineyard Haven Road, Oak Bluffs 508-696-5989 The Greenhouse of Martha’s Vineyard: 114 New York Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-2019

North Tisbury Farm and Market in North Tisbury are gourmet stores that also sell Ivy Ashe

their own Island-grown or -raised products. M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

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Required Reading

Subscribe at vineyardgazettestore.com or call (508) 627-4311. M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

THE ORIGINALS The first year-round Islanders were ancestors of today’s Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah).

BY JOHN H. KENNEDY

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Iris Donnelly

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

Peter Simon

To learn more about The Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah), begin with a visit to the Gay Head Cliffs (where a new viewing platform was constructed last year) and to the Aquinnah shops. Then visit the Aquinnah Cultural Center nearby.

If you’re new to visiting Martha’s Vineyard, you may not know that Native Americans beat the English to the Island by 9,000 years. They were here first — by a long shot. Today the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head

Sound and separating the Island from the

its website the Tribe proclaims that “he still

mainland. Moshup remains an important

presides over our destinies.”

symbol (quite literally, he holds a whale by

Moshup taught his people well. They

its tale in the Tribe’s official logo), as well as

were known around the world during the

a spiritual touchstone.

nineteenth century’s golden age of whaling

The Wampanoags’ story is also one of proselytization, displacement, and

for their skills. In Moby Dick, the harpooner Tashtego was from Gay Head.

marginalization following the arrival of

At the top of the cliffs, you’ll find a

whites in the early seventeenth century.

breathtaking view of the Elizabeth Islands

Nevertheless, the Aquinnah tribe has

(also said to have been Moshup’s creation),

endured and left an indelible mark on the

a restaurant, and a collection of shops that

Island they called Noepe (meaning “dry

sell crafts, gifts, food, and other items,

land amid waters”).

including wampum made with quahaug

Today, the Tribe is proud of its history,

(clam) shells. (See page 69.)

(Aquinnah) is the only federally recognized

culture, and primacy. It claims more than

tribe on the Island and the first recognized

1,000 members, about 315 of whom live on

redone picnic area and redesign of the Over-

in Massachusetts. And the Wampanoag

the Vineyard.

look that improved accessibility, enhanced

once had settlements across the Island and

On a visit to the Island, you may first en-

The area has been spruced up with a

the viewing experience, and unearthed a

throughout much of southeastern Mas-

counter tribal members at the majestic Gay

saschusetts and Rhode Island, dating back,

Head Cliffs at the extreme western tip of

yes, thousands of years.

Martha’s Vineyard, a site people visit from

Head Lighthouse nearby (to the north of

around the world. It is there that Moshup

the Overlook), but don’t forget to also take

the creation legend of the benevolent giant

was said to have lived in a cave and taught

a walk in the opposite direction (towards

Moshup, who by dragging his foot across

his people how to fish and catch whales.

the south, downhill along the Aquinnah

the ground ended up creating Vineyard

His spiritual presence still looms large; on

Circle) to the Aquinnah Cultural Center,

Their story is rich in lore, starting with

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

World War II bunker on the site. You’ll also want to visit the iconic Gay

once the homestead of Edwin DeVries

other Massachusetts tribe that has

Vanderhoop, the first Island Wampanoag

achieved federal recognition.)

to serve in the Massachusetts legislature.

For the last several decades, the Tribe

It now serves as a tribal museum (and

has attempted to gain the right to build

commands one of the Island’s most

a full-fledged casino, and during the

beautiful vistas from its porch). A path that

past decade fought to build an electronic

runs alongside the center winds down to

bingo facility on tribal land in Aquinnah.

the beach where you can swim, stroll, or

It finally prevailed in 2018 when the U.S.

just marvel at the cliffs, whose distinctive

Supreme Court declined to overturn

striations of color provide a stunning first

a ruling in its favor. As you drive on

glimpse of the Island to sailors. (Those

South Road, between Moshup Trail and

reddish hues are said to have come from

Black Brook Road (the entrance to the

the blood of whales killed by Moshup who

Tribe’s headquarters), you might be able

tossed them against the cliffs.)

to glimpse the four-acre site where the

After the arrival of whites in the early

Tribe plans to build a 10,000-square-foot

1640s, many natives were converted to

electronic bingo operation. (As of this

Christianity. And in the central part of

Peter Simon

town is a church that’s said to be the oldest continually operating Native American church in the nation, the Community Baptist Church of Gay Head, established in 1693. The steeple-topped whitewashed building on Church Street, not far from town hall and the community center, still plays an important part of many tribal members’ lives. There may be some confusion over the use of the name Gay Head for the cliffs, the church, and the lighthouse. The white English settlers who arrived in the seventeenth century took one look at the cliffs and soon named them the Gay Head Cliffs. The name stuck, becoming the official name of the town in 1870, until two decades

writing, the town and the Tribe were fighting in court again, this time over

In front of the town hall is a plaque from the governor of Massachusetts, who honored the town of Gay Head for sending more men per capita into the Army and Navy in World War I than any other town in New England. Most if not all of those men were Wampanoags. Two signature moments in the Tribe’s modern history came in 1987, when after years of disputes between the Tribe and the town, the state, and a taxpayers’ group, Congress endorsed the Settlement Act, conferring on the Tribe about 485 acres while requiring that it

ago when residents voted to return to the

comply with state and local laws. Earlier

original name of Aquinnah, or “land under

that same year, the federal government

the hill.” But there are some old-timers who

officially recognized the Tribe. (The

still prefer Gay Head.

Mashpee Wampanoag Tribe is the only

whether the tribe must comply with state and local building permits.) The calendar year on Martha’s Vineyard typically includes several events celebrating the Tribe’s Wampanoag culture. The annual powwow, which features tribal drumming, singing, food, and vendors, usually comes in September. On the second Tuesday in October, tribal children are excused from school to participate in Cranberry Day, the tribe’s most significant holiday that once lasted over several days. The Native American Artisans Festival usually happens in July. This year check eventsmv.com for updated information. John H. Kennedy is a journalist and educator who lives in West Tisbury.

Tim Johnson

The Tribe's annual powwow, which features tribal drumming, singing, food, and vendors, usually happens in September at the Aquinnah Circle.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

GET SPORTY On the court, in the ring, out to sea – where to play on Martha’s Vineyard.

Some days are mini-golf days, others are eighteen-hole outings. You might be psyched to go windsurfing or just looking to chill out on a scenic kayak tour or a tall ship cruise. Maybe you’ve never held a fishing rod, or maybe you’re ready to catch the really big one. No matter your mood or your athletic prowess, the Vineyard has a sporting opportunity for you. Turn the page to find out where to play golf or tennis, where to go horseback riding, where to rent a kayak or a bike, how to book a fishing or sailing charter, and even where to moor your sailboat if you’re cruising over to the Island. We’ve also got yoga (and exercise) classes of every style in studios and fitness centers all over the Island; visit mvol.com for locations. Tim Johnson

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

OUTSIDE

Sports

SAILING, SAILING Martha’s Vineyard is one of New England’s premier boating destinations. The three down-Island harbors offer the most popular anchorages, all with launch services and plenty of amenities ashore. Vineyard Haven Harbor is the spot most boaters encounter after the hairraising tidal passage through Woods Hole. This busy working harbor has a definite sailing flavor, with dozens of wooden boats and classic schooners. The inner mooring area (tisburyma. gov/harbormaster) is protected by a breakwater and is calm in most weather. The outer harbor has more moorings and a free anchorage. Regattas take place throughout the season. The second weekend in July features the Vineyard Cup, which benefits Island youth sailing programs. The Moffett Cup is the weekend after Labor Day, drawing most of the harbor’s top sailors for a season-ending event. To the east is Oak Bluffs Harbor, which is more popular with powerboatRay Ewing

ers than with sailors. On the busiest weekends, all eighty-one slips that ring the harbor are filled with gawk-worthy boats, while fifty moorings are rafted four deep in the middle of the harbor. You must reserve online (oakbluffsmarina.com); reserve early as popular dates go quickly. The harbor is lined with rollicking bars, and one of the busiest weekends comes in mid-July, when the Oak Bluffs Bluewater Classic big-game fishing tournament takes over the harbor. Still further east is Edgartown, a

which sponsors a full season of racing. In late July, Edgartown Race Week features round-the-buoys racing on Nantucket Sound. The regatta draws professional racing crews and top amateur sailors. It ends with a fiftyfour-mile race around the Island. In mid-August, the club hosts a 12-Meter regatta, which draws many of the famed America’s Cup vessels from years ago. Moorings and limited dockage are available in the inner harbor. The online

PA D D L E U P Kayaks, canoes, stand-up paddleboards (SUPs), small sailboats, and sailboards are available for rent at Wind’s Up (windsupmv.com) in Vineyard Haven. Island Spirit Kayak (islandspiritkayak.com) has kayaks and SUPs for rent at their Oak Bluffs location at the Little Bridge on Sengekontacket Pond. They give guided tours and hold themed events, including the annual Oar and Paddle Regatta in August. Martha’s Vineyard Ocean Sports

postcard-perfect harbor that hosts some

reservation system (edgartownharbor.

of the world’s finest sailing and power

com) opens in mid-February, and the

craft during the season. It is also home

popular dates sell out fast. The outer

skis, banana boats, motorboats, and even

to the private Edgartown Yacht Club,

harbor has free anchorage.

get you parasailing.

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ISLAND GUIDE 2021

(mvoceansports.com) in Oak Bluffs can set you up on personal watercraft, water

OUTSIDE

Sports

FISH AND SHIPS You’re on an Island, surrounded (and punctuated by) water. Why not get out on it? You don’t have to be a pro to sign up for a fishing charter or a sailing excursion; just be game for some fun. Or opt to explore one of the Island’s ponds by renting a kayak or small boat. If you’d like to see the Island from the deck of a sailboat, check out Mad Max Sailing Adventures (madmaxmarina.com) in Edgartown. It offers daily sails and private charters aboard its sixty-foot catamaran. Or take a sail on the classic fifty-six-foot yawl

Magic Carpet out of Edgartown Harbor (sailmagiccarpet.com). Catboat Charters (catboatcharters.com) will take you for a two-hour cruise on Katama Bay or for a private charter. Accommodating up to fifteen passengers, Steady as She Goes Charters (steadyasshegoescharters.com) offers threeto five-hour tours, full-day destination trips, and private dinners. To catch the big one, opt for one of many fishing charters available on Island. The captains and shore guides of Coop’s Bait & Tackle Charters (coopsbaitandtackle.com) know where the best spots are; you’re sure to have a successful trip. Other options include Menemsha Blues Charters (menemshabluescharters.com) and North Shore Charters (bassnblue.com) in Menemsha; Fishstick Charters (fishstick-

Lisa Vanderhoop

Captain Buddy Vanderhoop (in suspenders, above) with a group of happy charter customers.

charters.com), which offers fly-fishing; and

A day on the water with Buddy is always

Done Deal Charters (donedealcharters.

exciting and productive, which is why he’s

com) both out of Vineyard Haven.

popular with visiting celebrities; his list of

You could also sign up with the renowned Buddy Vanderhoop of Tomahawk Charters (tomahawkcharters.com). His motto is Bass is Our Business and he means business.

customers includes Keith Richards, Spike Lee, Taj Mahal, and Ted Danson. Buddy hosts whale watching trips and big-game sport fishing charters, too.

S P E N D A M O R N I N G or afternoon on the party

Mark Lovewell

BEST FISHING CHARTER

boat Skipper (mvskipper.com). With more than forty years of experience fishing Vineyard waters, it’s no wonder Captain John Potter has the Island’s most popular charter. In 2020, Potter offered trips with reduced numbers of passengers; private party trips are an option too. The Skipper sails out of Oak Blufffs. M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

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OUTSIDE

Sports

RIDE SHARE Yes, you can go horseback riding on the Vineyard: Misty Meadows Equine Learning Center (mistymeadowsmv.org) is a West Tisbury teaching center dedicated to building not just riding skills but life skills. Lessons are available at Arrowhead Farm (arrowheadfarm.net) and at Pond View Farm (pondviewfarmmv.com), both in West Tisbury.

Tim Johnson

The course at Farm Neck offers views of Sengekontaket Pond.

G O L F, O F C O U R S E

Cornelius S. Lee, offers members and

Mink Meadows Golf Club (minkmead-

Sound. The club is open year-round. The

owsgc.com) was designed in 1936 by renowned golf-course architect Wayne Stiles. This semiprivate facility in Vineyard Haven offers rolling terrain with ocean views, and golfers can play it as a nine-hole or eighteen-hole game. Reserve a tee time up to two days in

guests expansive views of Nantucket Vineyard Golf Club (vineyardgolf.com) is the Island’s newest course but doesn’t have new memberships open at this time. For a fun outing, don’t miss the Royal and Ancient Chappaquiddick Links (royalchappy.com) in season.

Ivy Ashe

advance year-round. Farm Neck Golf Club (farmneck. net), located in Oak Bluffs, holds a reputation for championship caliber golf, and both Bill Clinton and Barack Obama have played there frequently. The course, designed in 1979 by Geoffrey Cornish, Bill Robinson, and Patrick Mulligan, includes woodlands, open meadows, salt marshes, and beautiful views of Sengekontacket Pond. After playing the course, enjoy a meal or a drink at Farm Neck Café. Farm Neck is open from May to December. Edgartown Golf Club (edgartowngolfclub.com), founded in 1926 by 102

S K AT E , B OW L, P U T T The Martha’s Vineyard Skate Park (mvskatepark.org) in Oak Bluffs is open 8 a.m. to sunset daily, year-round. The Barn, Bowl & Bistro (thebarnmv.com) in Oak Bluffs has ten fully automated bowling lanes, a cafe, bar, Ping-Pong, and more. Reserve a lane ahead. A disc golf course is located off Airport Road in Edgartown. The course is DIY, so bring what you need. The Cove Golf & Grill (508-6932611) in Vineyard Haven has a snack bar, ice cream, and a visiting taco truck in addition to mini-golf. ISLAND GUIDE 2021

OUTSIDE

Sports

ON THE COURT Public tennis courts are available in four towns on the Vineyard. Oak Bluffs courts (oakbluffsma.gov) are located on Niantic Avenue. Edgartown courts (edgartownma.us) are located on Robinson Road. Vineyard Haven (tisburyma.gov) has public courts on Lake Street and on Church Street. During the summer, courts at the West Tisbury School are open to the public (westtisbury-ma.gov). Each court has different fee schedules. You can also reserve a court at Vineyard Family Tennis (vineyardfamilytennis. org) when children’s lessons are not in session. (Courts are indoors.) Farm Neck Golf Club (farmneck.net) in Oak Bluffs has six outdoor courts open to the public.

AT T H E Y M C A Missing your fitness routine? Pick it right Tim Johnson

DO A WHEELIE Riding a bike is a great way to see Martha’s Vineyard – and to get some serious exercise if you tackle the hills upIsland. If you ride up-Island, leave time to return before the sun sets as there are no street lights. Tip: take the bike ferry from the fishing village of Menemsha to Aquinnah and the Gay Head Cliffs. Down-Island, roads are flatter and towns are close enough together that you can bike from one to the other. These routes combine bike paths and road travel where you’ll have to obey all traffic

network of bumpy, hilly, and beautiful trails all over the Island. Chappaquiddick is a great destination for long rides. There are bike rental companies in all down-Island towns. In Edgartown, Wheel Happy (wheelhappybicycles. com) will deliver a state-of-the-art bike anywhere on the Island. Edgartown Bicycles (edgartownbicycles.com) won Best Bike Rental Shop for 2019 in the Best of the Vineyard Awards.

yard (ymcamv.org). Spacious, bright, and welcoming, the YMCA is open seven days a week on the Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road. You’ll find more than seventy classes for all ages and fitness levels (preregistraion required). There’s a six-lane competitive lap pool and a recreational pool. Exercise equipment includes free weights, circuit-training machines, and cardio equipment. A basketball court and children’s play area are outside. Inside, find a weekday cafe.

Martha’s Vineyard Bike Rentals (marthasvineyardbike.com) is popular, too. In Vineyard Haven, Martha’s Bike (marthasbikerentals.com) is

rules. For a ride without traffic, check

conveniently located at Five Corners.

out the ten-mile bike path in the state

In Oak Bluffs, Anderson’s Bike Rentals

forest.

(andersonsbikerentals.com) has been

Off-road bikers will love tackling the

back up at the YMCA of Martha’s Vine-

renting bikes since 1971. M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

Mark Lovewell

103

BRIGHT LIGHTS One Island, five lighthouses.

G AY H E A D L I G H T Gay Head Cliffs, Aquinnah, off Lighthouse Road W H E N T O V I S I T : Lighthouse Park is open daily, Memorial Day to early

They’ve guided mariners since the age of sail, through the whaling era, and in times of war and peace. The five lighthouses of Martha’s Vineyard have been rebuilt, moved, manned, unmanned, oil lit, and automated. It hasn’t been an easy couple of centuries. And yet they still shine.

October. For information on touring the interior, visit gayheadlight.org.

H I S T O RY: The original Gay Head Light was the first lighthouse built on Martha’s Vineyard, commissioned by President John Adams in 1799. The need was urgent: extending westward from the Gay Head Cliffs to the island of Cuttyhunk, a ledge nicknamed Devil’s Bridge by mariners was the unfortunate site of many shipwrecks. Ship traffic continued to be heavy on Vineyard Sound through the next century, prompting the replacement of the original light with a French-built Fresnel lens with 1,008 prisms, which required a new brick structure for the lighthouse to support it. Even with the lens, one of the worst New England shipwrecks (of the steamer City of Columbus) occurred here in 1884. The cliffs and the lighthouse became a tourist destination. Wampanoags met tourists disembarking from steamers with handmade crafts, a tradition that became the precursor to small businesses that still draw people to Aquinnah and the cliffs today. The Fresnel lens was replaced in 1952 with an automated electric beacon, and the lighthouse, after a monumental fundraising effort, was moved back 129 feet in 2015 to a safer location behind the eroding cliffs. (The lens is now on permanent display at the Martha’s Vineyard Museum in Vineyard Haven.) Today if you visit the Gay Head Light, you’ll meet Richard Skidmore, who’s been the keeper of the lighthouse for twentynine years and can fill you in on the rich history of the light. For more information, visit gayheadlight.org. Peter Simon

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EAST CHOP LIGHT 220 East Chop Avenue, Oak Bluffs W H E N T O V I S I T : You can visit the grounds of the lighthouse anytime. For information on when the lighthouse will resume its Sunday night sunset viewings, visit mvmuseum.org.

H I S T O RY: The first East Chop Light was built by Captain Silas Daggett in 1871, who served as keeper until 1875 when the government agreed to buy it from him for $3,500. The cast iron structure that stands today was built in 1878, the last lighthouse to be erected Tim Johnson

on the Island.

EDGARTOWN LIGHT 121 North Water Street, Edgartown W H E N T O V I S I T : Visit mvmuseum.org for information about when tours of the lighthouse may resume.

H I S T O RY: The first Edgartown Lighthouse was built in 1828 on a small, manmade island at the entrance to Edgartown Harbor. It was severely damaged in the hurricane of 1938, then replaced by a lighthouse from Ipswich, which was dismantled and barged to Edgartown in 1939. After renovations in 2007, the lighthouse opened to visitors. Mark Lovewell

WEST CHOP LIGHT West Chop Road, Vineyard Haven W H E N T O V I S I T : West Chop Light is not open to the public; you can view the structure and vista from the road.

H I S T O RY: The first West Chop Light was built in 1817; the current white-painted tower, built in 1891, is the third. Over the years, housing for lightkeepers was also built, moved, and remodeled. The last lighthouse to become automated (in 1976), the photogenic West Chop Light is now owned and managed (and sometimes occupied by) Tim Johnson

the U.S. Coast Guard.

CAPE POGUE LIGHT Cape Pogue Wildlife Refuge, Chappaquiddick W H E N T O V I S I T : Open daily in season; accessible by a 3.5 mile hike, a four-wheel-drive vehicle, or by guided tour (fees apply).

H I S T O RY: The original 1801 tower on the tip of Cape Pogue was the second lighthouse built on the Vineyard, but it has been replaced and moved many times due to erosion. The current structure, built in 1893, was last moved in 1987 – the first to be transported by helicopter. The Trustees of Reservations offers guided tours. For more Peter Simon

information visit thetrustees.org.

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

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4 AWARD-WINNING EMAIL NEWSLETTERS

5 DAYS A WEEK! TUESDAYS & FRIDAYS

THE BROADSHEET

Top news stories, in-depth features, trends, profiles, commentary and stunning photography from the Vineyard Gazette, bringing you up to date twice a week.

WEDNESDAYS

COOK THE VINEYARD

Your guide to cooking and eating deliciously on the Vineyard, with over 500 recipes, menu inspiration and tips on where to find ingredients through the seasons.

THURSDAYS

ISLAND TIME

Best bets for things to do on the Island in the coming week, from special events, concerts and films to art openings, trail walks, kids’ activities and more.

SATURDAYS

THE NOTEBOOK

For lovers of good stories, evocative writing and the great outdoors, a weekly essay followed by suggestions for weekend reading and a gallery of the week in photos.

vineyardgazette.com/newsletters 106

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

HAPPENINGS

Bookmark This!

ISLAND TIME Starting in May and blazing through October, special events happen every week on the Vineyard – in a normal year, of course. This year we hope many events – especially the August “Big Three” (the fair, the fireworks, and Illumination Night, page 109) – will return. As the year unfolds, no doubt many other events, including the ones we’ve listed here, will take place too. But because dates were not firm at press time, we encourage you to visit the websites of events that appeal to you. You can also visit the Vineyard Gazette calendar, eventsmv.com, for updates on these events and many more.

Tim Johnson

Bill Murray is a regular fan at the Martha's Vineyard Sharks’ games at the Shark Tank.

P L AY B A L L !

WIND POWER

The MV Sharks open their season in early

Kites of all sizes and kiteflyers of all ages

June, playing at the Shark Tank at 100

gather in Ocean Park in early September

Edgartown–Vineyard Haven Road in Oak

for the annual Martha’s Vineyard Wind

Bluffs (mvsharks.com).

Festival (mvwindfestival.com).

M U S I C A L M OV I E S

FISH FESTS

One of several annual film festivals

The annual Martha’s Vineyard Striped

presented by the Martha’s Vineyard Film

Bass & Bluefish Derby kicks off at 12:01

Society, the weeklong Filmusic Festival in

a.m. on a Sunday morning in September

June celebrates the convergence of music,

and runs through the third week in

culture, and film (mvfilmsociety.com).

October (mvderby.com).

S TA R S A N D S T R I P E S

The MV Oyster Fest promotes the Island

Streets are closed off and parade watchers line up early to catch the annual Fourth of July parade in Edgartown. That evening, the crowd moves to the waterfront to watch the fireworks (visitedgartown.org).

REEL TIME The nineteenth annual Martha’s Vineyard African-American Film Festival is

oyster industry throughout the year, with an annual weekend festival planned for early October this year (mvoysterfest.com). RAISE A GLASS The Martha’s Vineyard Food & Wine Festival, a much anticipated four-day fall event on the Island, is planning a refreshed format for 2021 (mvfoodandwine.com).

planned for August, with additional virtual events scheduled around it (mvaaff.com). M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

107

“The running, or starting, of a steamboat,

is something like the starting of a newspaper; they are both equally expensive, and much money must be lost before any can be won.” –Vineyard Gazette, November 18, 1847

The Naushon, the first steamship built to serve Martha’s Vineyard,

began ferrying passengers to and from the Island in 1846, the same year the Vineyard Gazette was founded. 175 years and many ferries later, the Vineyard Gazette is still delivering the news, in print every week and online all the time at vineyardgazette.com.

Trusted Then and Now.

175 Established 1846.

Stay current with the news. Subscribe today at vineyardgazettestore.com.

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ISLAND GUIDE 2021

HAPPENINGS

Fair & Fireworks Week

T H AT W E E K I N A U G U S T Though exciting events happen all season on the Vineyard, a trifecta during the third week of August makes it the most highly anticipated all summer. Here’s hoping we’ll be enjoying all three this year.

I L L U M I N AT I O N NIGHT O N W E D N E S DAY N I G H T, the exciting trio of events kicks off in Oak Bluffs with Grand Illumination Night, when hundreds of Chinese lanterns hung on Camp Ground cottages are lit all at once. Sponsored by the Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting Association, the event usually begins with a community sing at the Tabernacle (mvcma.org).

OAK BLUFFS FIREWORKS F R I DAY N I G H T brings the fireworks to Oak Bluffs. Folks grab some takeout from their favorite O.B. restaurants and set up their beach chairs early in Ocean Park. The Vineyard Haven Band performs at the Bandstand, starting at 8 p.m., followed by fireworks lighting up the sky at 9 p.m. (oakbluffsma.gov).

A G R I C U LT U R A L FA I R T H U R S DAY is the start of the Martha’s Vineyard Livestock Show and Fair in West Tisbury. A true agricultural fair with a midway too, it runs until Sunday, with something for everyone. A highlight on Thursday is the opening of the hall to see the ribbon-winning crafts, flowers, veggies, and art. Barn judging begins, followed by the ox pull, sheep shearing, and more. Rides, food, music, the fiber-arts tent, the animal barn – it’s all here (marthasvineyardagriculturalsoJoshua Robinson-White

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

ciety.org.) 109

WEDDING RECEPTIONS • FULL SERVICE RESTAURANT • PRIVATE PARTIES

OAK BLUFFS, MARTHA’S VINEYARD | 110

508.693.3560 | WWW.FARMNECK.NET/CAFE

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Vineyard Colors

Martha’s Vineyard

HOTEL & RESTAURANT GUIDE P L A C E S T O S TAY A N D E AT

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

111

A C C O M M O D AT I O N S

The Attleboro House: 42 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4346 · attleborohousemv.com

AQUINNAH + CHILMARK

The Beach Front Inn: 65 Seaview Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-5148 beachfrontinnmv.com

The Beach Plum: 50 Beach Plum Lane, Menemsha · 508-645-9454 · beachpluminn.com The Captain R. Flanders House: 440 North Road, Chilmark · 508-645-3123 captainflandersinn.com The Duck Inn: 10 Duck Pond Way, Aquinnah 508-645-9018 · duckinnonmv.com Menemsha Inn & Cottages: 12 Menemsha Inn Road, Menemsha · 508-645-2521 menemshainn.com

EDGARTOWN Ashley Inn: 129 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-9655 · ashleyinn.net Captain Morse House: 80 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4895 captainmorsehouse.com The Charlotte Inn: 27 South Summer Street, Edgartown · 506-627-4751 · thecharlotteinn.com The Christopher: 24 South Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4784 thechristophermv.com Edgar Hotel: 227 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-5161 edgarhotelmv.com Edgartown Commons: 20 Pease’s Point Way North, Edgartown · 508-627-4671 edgartowncommons.com The Edgartown Inn: 56 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-939-4005 theedgartowninn.com The Harborside Inn: 3 South Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4321 · theharborsideinn.com Harbor View Hotel: 131 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-7000 harborviewhotel.com Hob Knob Luxury Boutique Hotel & Spa: 128 Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-9510 hobknob.com Kelley House: 23 Kelley Street, Edgartown 508-627-7900 · kelley-house.com The Lightkeepers Inn: 25 Simpson’s Lane, Edgartown · 508-627-4600 thelightkeepersinn.com The Richard: 104 Main Street, Edgartown 774-310-1055 · therichardhotel.com The Sydney: 22 Winter Street, Edgartown 508-939-9299 · thesydneyhotel.com Vineyard Square Hotel & Suites: 38 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4711 vineyardsquarehotel.com Winnetu Oceanside Resort: 31 Dunes Road, Edgartown · 508-627-4747 · winnetu.com

OAK BLUFFS 112

Haven · 508-693-2200 · mvmansionhouse.com Martha’s Vineyard Family Campground: 569 Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-3772 · campmv.com

Dockside Inn: 9 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2966 · vineyardinns.com

Nobnocket Boutique Inn: 60 Mount Aldworth Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-696-0859 nobnocket.com

East Chop Harborfront Apartments: 47 East Chop Drive, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-0009 eastchopharborfront.com

1720 House Bed & Breakfast: 152 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6407 1720house.com

Hotel Ginger: 9 David Healy Way, Oak Bluffs 508-338-2804 · hotelginger.com

Vineyard Harbor Motel: 60 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-3334 vineyardharbormotel.us

Isabelle’s Beach House: 83 Seaview Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-3955 isabellesbeachhouse.com The Island Inn: 30 Island Inn Road, Oak Bluffs 508-693-2002 · islandinn.com Kathleen’s Kottage: 59 Naushon Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-863-2734 · kkonmv.com Madison Inn: 18 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2760 · madisoninnmv.com Narragansett House: 46 Narragansett Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-3627 narragansetthouse.com The Oak Bluffs Inn: 64 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-7171 · oakbluffsinn.com Pequot Hotel: 19 Pequot Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-5087 · pequothotel.com Summercamp: 70 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-6611 · summercamphotel.com

W E ST T I S B U RY The Broad Meadow Bed & Breakfast: 74 Elias Lane, West Tisbury · 508-693-3584 mvbroadmeadowbnb.com Cleaveland House B&B: 620 Edgartown-West Tisbury Road, West Tisbury · 508-693-9352 cynthiariggs.com/cleavelandhouse Lambert’s Cove Hideaway: 24 Black Brook Crossing, West Tisbury · 800-696-8633 lambertscovehideaway.com Lambert’s Cove Inn: 90 Manaquayak Road, West Tisbury · 800-535-0272 lambertscoveinn.com

The Surfside Hotel: 7 Oak Bluffs Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2500 · mvsurfside.com

R E S TA U R A N T S , SNACKS & CAFES

Titticut Follies: 37 Narragansett Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4986 · titticutfollies.com

AQUINNAH + CHILMARK

Tivoli Inn: 125 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-7928 · tivoliinn.com

The Aquinnah Shop Restaurant: 27 Aquinnah Circle, Aquinnah · 508-645-3867 theaquinnahshop.com

V I N E YA R D H AV E N

Alley’s General Store: 1045 State Road, West Tisbury · 508-693-0088

Charles & Charles: 85 Summer Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-338-2351 charlesandcharlesmv.com Crocker Inn: 12 Crocker Avenue, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-1151 · crockerhouseinn.com The Driftwood: 76 Leonard Circle, Vineyard Haven · 860-930-0233 · thedriftwoodmv.com Fourway Carriage House: 95 Franklin Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-696-8487 fourwaymv.com Greenwood House: 40 Greenwood Avenue, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6150 greenwoodhouse.com Harbor Landing: 15 Beach Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-2600 · harbor-landing.com The Look Inn: 25 Look Street, Vineyard Haven 508-693-6893 · lookinnmv.com Lorraine Parish’s Bedroom Suites: 65 South Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-9044 lorraineparish.com/bedandbreakfast Mansion House: 9 Main Street, Vineyard ISLAND GUIDE 2021

The Beach Plum: 50 Beach Plum Lane, Menemsha · 508-645-9454 · beachpluminn.com Chilmark General Store: 7 State Road, Chilmark · 508-645-3739 chilmarkgeneralstore.com Chilmark Tavern: 9 State Road, Chilmark 508-645-9400 · chilmarktavern.com Cliffhangers: 21 Aquinnah Circle, Aquinnah 508-955-9163 · facebook.com/cliffhangersaq Menemsha Deli: 24 Basin Road, Menemsha 508-955-9471 · menemshadeli.com Menemsha Galley: 515 North Road, Menemsha · 508-645-9819 · menemshagalley.com Orange Peel Bakery: 682 State Road, Aquinnah 508-645-2025 · orangepeelbakery.squarespace.com Orange Peel Bakery Café: 33 Aquinnah Circle, Aquinnah Outermost Inn and Restaurant: 81 Lighthouse Road, Aquinnah · 508-645-3511 outermostinn.com

EDGARTOWN

Chesca’s Restaurant: 38 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-1234 · chescasmv.com

19 Raw Oyster Bar: 19 Church Street, Edgartown · 774-224-0550 19rawoysterbar.com

Dairy Queen: 242 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-5001

19 Prime Cast Iron Steakhouse: 19 Church Street, Edgartown instagram.com/19primesteakhouse A Slice of Edgartown: 22 Dock Street, Edgartown · 508-627-7641 Alchemy: 71 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-9999 · alchemyedgartown.com Among the Flowers: 17 Mayhew Lane, Edgartown · 508-627-3233 amongtheflowersmv.com Atlantic: 2 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-7001 · atlanticmv.com

Détente: 15 Winter Street, Edgartown 508-627-8810 · detentemv.com Depot Market: 141 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-669-7733 facebook.com/DepotMV Dip02539: 241 Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown · 508-627-7725 facebook.com/dip02539 Dock Street Coffee Shop: 2 Dock Street, Edgartown · 508-627-5232 dock-street-coffee-shop.square.site The Dunes: 31 Dunes Road, Edgartown 508-627-4747 · winnetu.com

Atria: 137 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-5850 · atriamv.com Behind the Bookstore: 46 Main Street, Edgartown · 774-549-9123 · btbmv.com Bettini Restaurant: 131 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-3761 · harborviewhotel.com Black Sheep: 17 Airport Road, Edgartown 508-338-7770 · blacksheeponmv.com China House: 234 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-7272 mvchinahouse.com

Edgartown Diner: 65 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-9337 · edgartowndinermv.com Edgartown Meat & Fish Market: 240 Edgartown -Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown 508-627-6200 · edgartownmeatandfish.com Edgartown Pizza: 224 Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown · 508-627-7770 edgartownpizza.com Espresso Love: 17 Church Street, Edgartown 508-627-9211 · espressolove.com

The Covington: 52 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-7678 · thecovingtonrestaurant.com

The Fish House: 17 Airport Road, Edgartown 508-693-0055 · thefishhousemv.com

Great Harbor Market: 199 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-694-6888 greatharbormarket.com The Ice Cream & Candy Bazaar: 5 Dock Street, Edgartown · 508-627-8735 Katama General Store: 170 Katama Road, Edgartown · 508-627-5071 katamageneral.com L’étoile: 22 North Water Street, Edgartown 508-627-5187 · letoile.net Lucky Hank’s Restaurant & Café: 218 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-939-4082 luckyhanksmv.com MacPhail’s Corner Café: 18 Dock Street, Edgartown · 508-939-3090 Mad Martha’s: 7 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-8761 Mad Rosie’s: 9 North Water Street, Edgartown · 774-549-9982 Murdick’s Café: 19 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-7605 · murdicks.com/cafe Murdick’s Fudge: 21 North Water Street, Edgartown · 508-627-8047 · murdicks.com The Newes from America: 23 Kelley Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4397 thenewesfromamerica.com The Port Hunter: 55 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-7747 · theporthunter.com R&B’s Eatery: 258 Upper Main Street,

O N N E W S S TA N D S N O W Martha’s Vineyard

ISLAND WEDDINGS WINTER–SPRING 2021

PLANNING A WEDDING ON THE VINEYARD? IN THIS ISSUE: Expert Advice for a Safe Celebration, Real Wedding Inspiration, Fresh Ideas for Boutonnieres, and much more. Published by

Martha’s Vineyard M A G A Z I N E

Martha’s Vineyard Expert Advice for Safe Celebrations

Real Weddings, Real Inspiration

Fresh Ideas for Boutonnieres

ISLAND WEDDINGS

AVAILABLE: O N N E W S S TA N D S + V I N E YA R D G A Z E T T E S T O R E . C O M

Y O U R C O M P L E T E G U I D E T O W E D D I N G S O N M A R T H A ’ S V I N E YA R D

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Edgartown · 508-627-7753 Right Fork Diner: 12 Mattakesset Way, Edgartown · 508-627-5522 · rightforkdiner.com Rockfish: 11 North Water Street, Edgartown 508-627-9967 · rockfishedgartown.com Rosewater Market & Take Away: 20 South Summer Street, Edgartown · 508-627-1270 rosewatertakeaway.com The Scoop Shack: 22 Dock Street, Edgartown 508-627-7829 The Seafood Shanty: 31 Dock Street, Edgartown · 508-627-8622 theseafoodshanty.com

Avenue Ext., Unit 3, Oak Bluffs · 508-338-2037 theblackdog.com

Bluffs · 508-693-0006 · nancysrestaurant.com

The Cardboard Box: 6 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-338-2621 · thecardboardbox.com

New Moon Magick – Enchanted Chocolates: 4 Chapman Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-8331 · enchantedchocolates.net

Carousel Ice Cream Factory: 15 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-8614

Nomans: 15 Island Inn Road, Oak Bluffs 508-338-2474 · nomansmv.com

Deon’s Kitchen: 14 Towanticut Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-627-0330 · chefdeon.com

Ocean View Restaurant and Tavern: 16 Chapman Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2207 oceanviewrestaurantmv.com

Coop deVille & Shuck Shack: 12 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-693-3420 coopdevillemv.com

Offshore Ale Co.: 30 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2626 · offshoreale.com

Dos Mas: 50 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-687-9271 · dosmasmv.com

The Oyster Bar 02557: 6 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 774-563-3046 · oysterbar02557.com

Sharky’s Cantina: 266 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-6565 · sharkmenu.com

Dilly’s Taqueria: 4 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-5891 · dillystaqueria.com

Soigne: 190 Upper Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-8489 · soignemv.com

Farm Neck Café: 1 Farm Neck Way, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-3560 · farmneck.net/cafe

The Pawnee House: 20 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-338-2770 thepawneehousemv.com

The Square Rigger: 225 Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown · 508-627-9968 squareriggerrestaurant.com

Fat Ronnie’s Burger Bar: 7 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-6600 fatronniesburgerbar.com

Taco MV: 32 Winter Street, Edgartown 774-549-6944 facebook.com/tacomarthasvineyard

Fishbones Bar & Grille: 12 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-696-8227 fishbonesmv.com

The Terrace: 27 South Summer Street, Edgartown · 508-627-6227 theterracemv.com

The Food Truck: 137 Vineyard Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-560-5883 facebook.com/thefoodtruckmv

Toccopuro Coffee: 3 South Water Street, Edgartown · 774-549-9351

Giordano’s Restaurant: 18 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-0184 · giosmv.com

Town Bar & Grill: 227 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 774-310-8696 · townbarmv.com Tropical Bakery: 266 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-3773 The Wharf: 3 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-9966 · wharfpubmv.com Wolf’s Den Pizzeria: 249 EdgartownVineyard Haven Road, Edgartown 508-627-9994 · wolfsdenmv.com Quarterdeck: 29 Dock Street, Edgartown 508-627-5346 · facebook.com/QuarterdeckEDG Vineyard Scoops: 56 Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-4736

OAK BLUFFS Back Door Donuts: 5 Post Office Square, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-3688 · backdoordonuts.com Bangkok Cuisine: 67 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-6322 bangkokcapecod.com The Barn, Bowl & Bistro: 13 Uncas Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-9800 · thebarnmv.com Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium: 20A Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-0008 benandbillsmv.com

Red Cat Kitchen: 14 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-6040 · redcatkitchen.com The Ritz Cafe: 4 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-9851 · theritzmv.com Rosie’s Frozen Yogurt: 19 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-687-0031 · rosiesofmv.com Sand Bar: 6 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs 508-693-7111 · mvsandbar.com

Jimmy Seas Pan Pasta: 32 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-687-9804

Sarah Brown's Comfort Food: 53 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 516-526-3943 sarahbrownsmv.com

Juice By the Sea: 7 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 781-385-0997 · juicebytheseamv.com

Sea Smoke Barbecue: 7 Oakland Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-338-7404 · seasmokemv.com

Linda Jean’s Restaurant: 25 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4093 lindajeansrestaurantmv.com

Seaweed's: 16 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs seaweedsmv.square.site

Lobsterville Bar and Grille: 8 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-696-0099 lobstervillemv.com Loft/Pizza di Napoli: 9 Oak Bluffs Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-3000 · eatmv.com Lookout Tavern: 8 Sea View Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-696-9844 · lookoutmv.com Mad Martha’s: 12 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-9151 Martha’s Vineyard Chowder Co.: 9 Oak Bluffs Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-3000 mvchowder.com Midnight Train Food Truck: 27 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-560-3222 facebook.com/midnighttrainMV Mister Pugg’s Mugg: 49 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-6368 Mocha Mott’s: 10 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-696-1922 · mochamotts.com

Biscuits: 26 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-693-2033 · mvbiscuits.com

Murdick’s Fudge: 5 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2335 · murdicks.com

Big Dipper Ice Cream & Café: 23 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4845

MV Salads: 55 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-338-7754 · mvsalads.com

The Black Dog Dockside Café: 12 Circuit

Nancy’s Restaurant: 29 Lake Avenue, Oak

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Portuguese-American Club: 137 Vineyard Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-9875 holyghostassociation.com

ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Sharky’s Cantina: 31 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-7501 · sharkmenu.com Stella Salumeria: 6 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-246-9535 facebook.com/stellasalumeria The Sweet Life: 63 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs 508-696-0200 · sweetlifemv.com The Sweet Spot: 12 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-687-2031 Toccopuro Coffee: 45 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-338-2463 Tony’s Market: 119 Dukes County Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4799 tonysmarketmv.com Vineyard’s Best Ice Cream & Coffee: 12 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 617-775-6019 vineyardbest.com Vineyard Caribbean Cuisine: 7 Circuit Avenue Ext., Oak Bluffs · 508-338-4094 Y Cafe: 111R Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road, Oak Bluffs · 508-696-7171 · ymcamv.org

V I N E YA R D H AV E N The ArtCliff Diner: 38 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-1224 · artcliffdiner.com

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Behind the Bookstore: 18 Beach Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-687-9972 · btbmv.com The Black Dog Bakery Café: 509 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-696-8190 theblackdog.com The Black Dog Tavern: 20 Beach Street Ext., Vineyard Haven · 508-693-9223 · theblackdog.com The Black Dog Water Street Bakery: 11 Water Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-4786 theblackdog.com Blissed Out: 13 Union Street, Vineyard Haven 508-338-2938 · blissedoutmv.com Bobby B’s Restaurant: 22 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-8266 bobbybsmv.com Chef Amy’s: 61 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven 508-857-8783 Copper Wok: 9 Main Street, Vineyard Haven 508-693-3416 · copperwokmv.com The Cove Golf & Grill: 386 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-2611 covemv.com Delicious MV: 22 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-2223 · deliciousmv.com El Gato Grande: 508-560-2331 elgatograndemv.com First Light Café: 151 Lagoon Pond Road, Vineyard Haven · mvmuseum.org Fish MV: 80 Main Street, Vineyard Haven fishmv.com Frankie's Market: 79 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-338-2130 · frankiesmarket.com Garde East: 52 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven 508-687-9926 · gardeeast.com Golden Bull Brazilian Steakhouse: 13 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-338-7836 goldenbullmv.com Island Fresh Pizza & Subs: 395 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-338-2764 islandfreshpizza.com La Choza Burritos: 4 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-9050 The Larder: 342 State Road, Vineyard Haven 508-687-9641 · thelardermv.com La Soffitta: 82 Main Street, Vineyard Haven 508-687-9448 · lasoffitta.com Life at Humphreys: 455 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6518 lifeathumphreys.com Little House Café: 339 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-687-9794 · littlehousemv.com Mad Martha’s: 48 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-5883 Mikado Asian Bistro: 76 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-338-7096 mikadomv.com Mocha Mott’s: 15 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-3155 · mochamotts.com Murdick’s Fudge: 79 Main Street, Vineyard 116

Haven · 508-693-7344 · murdicks.com Nat’s Nook: 38 Main Street, Vineyard Haven 508-338-2340 · natsnookmv.com The Net Result: 79 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6071 · mvseafood.com

Menemsha Fish Market: 54 Basin Road, Menemsha · 508-645-2282 menemshafishmarket.com The Net Result: 79 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven 508-693-6071 · mvseafood.com

Pie Chicks Bakery: 395 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-0228 · piechicks.com

GROCERY STORES

Porto Pizza: 36 Water Street, Vineyard Haven 508-693-6200 · portopizza-mv.com

Alley's General Store: 1045 State Road, West Tisbury · 508-693-0088

Rocco’s Pizzeria: 79 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-1125 marthasvineyardpizza.com

Cash & Carry: 10 Carroll's Way, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-7708 · vccfoods.net

Salvatore's: 20 Union Street, Vineyard Haven 508-687-9457 · salvatoresristorante.com

Cronig’s Market: 357 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-4457 · cronigsmarket.com Cronig’s Market: 469 State Road, West Tisbury · 508-693-2234 · cronigsmarket.com

Scottish Bakehouse: 977 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6633 scottishbakehousemv.com

Cumberland Farms: 9 Lagoon Pond Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-8729

Sweet Bites: 32 Beach Street, Vineyard Haven 508-684-8257 · sweetbitesmv.com

Reliable Market: 36 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-1102 · thereliablemarket.com

Tisberry Frozen Yogurt: 29 Main Street, Unit C2, Vineyard Haven · 508-687-9314 tisberrymv.com

Stop & Shop: 225 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-9522 · stopandshop.com

Waterside Market: 82 Main Street, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-8899 · watersidemarket.com Wolf’s Den Pizzeria: 45 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-687-9112 · wolfsdenmv.com

Stop & Shop: 50 Water Street, Vineyard Haven 508-693-8339 · stopandshop.com Vineyard Grocer: 294 State Road, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-2000 · vineyardgrocer.com

Woodland Variety & Grill: 455 State Road, No. 4, Vineyard Haven · 508-693-6795 woodlandvarietyandgrill.com

W E ST T I S B U RY 7a Foods: 1045 State Road, West Tisbury 508-693-4636 · 7afoods.com State Road: 688 State Road, West Tisbury 508-693-8582 · stateroadrestaurant.com Woods: 90 Manaquayak Road, West Tisbury 800-535-0272 · lambertscoveinn.com Plane View: 139 Airport Road, West Tisbury 508-693-1886 · facebook.com/PVMV1999 Vineyard Take Out: 479 State Road, West Tisbury · 508-693-6924 facebook.com/vineyardtakeout

FISH MARKETS Edgartown Meat & Fish Market: 240 Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown 508-627-6200 · edgartownmeatandfish.com Edgartown Seafood: 138 Cooke Street, Edgartown · 508-627-3791 edgartownseafood.com The Fish House: 17 Airport Road, Edgartown 508-693-0055 · thefishhousemv.com John’s Fish Market/Sandy’s Fish & Chips: 5 Martin Road, Vineyard Haven 508-693-1220 · johnsfishmarket.com Larsen’s Fish Market: 56 Basin Road, Menemsha · 508-645-2680 larsensfishmarket.com ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Elizabeth Cecil

Whether you dine in or take out, don't miss the cookies and pastries at State Road restaurant.

THIRSTY ISLAND

From craft beer to small-batch bourbon–how to source your spirits on the Vineyard W E ' R E S E R I O U S about beer on

the Island. Sip a Martha’s Vineyard Ale one summer afternoon on the patio at Bad Martha’s Farmer’s Brewery in Edgartown, or drop by Offshore Ale Co. in Oak Bluffs for an East Chop Lighthouse. Or shop for one of Wash Ashore’s hoppy organic beers. If you need help finding a good wine, visit M.V. Wine & Spirits or Our Market. Need groceries and wine? Stop at Tony’s Market. But plan ahead and shop while in Edgartown or Oak Bluffs. Vineyard Haven, West

W I N E A N D PA C K A G E S T O R E S EDGARTOWN Al’s Package Store: 258 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-627-4347 Edgartown Meat & Fish Market: 240 Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road, Edgartown 508-627-6200 · edgartownmeatandfish.com Katama General: 170 Katama Road, Edgartown · 508-627-5071 · katamageneral.com M.V. Wine & Spirits: 17A Airport Road, Edgartown · 508-627-7557 · mvwinestore.com Rosewater Wine & Spirits: 65 Main Street, Edgartown · 508-939-4459 rosewatertakeaway.com Soigne: 190 Upper Main Street, Edgartown 508-627-8489 · soignemv.com Vintage M.V. Wine & Spirits: 29 Winter Street, Edgartown · 774-549-9287 vintagemvwine-spirits.com

Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah

Wharf Wine & Spirits: 8 Mayhew Lane, Edgartown · 508-627-5183

don’t have liquor stores.

Your Market: 249 Edgartown-Vineyard

M A R T H A’ S V I N E YA R D

Haven Road, Edgartown · 508-627-4000 yourmarketmv.com

OA K B L U F F S Jim’s Package Store & Island Market: 27 Lake Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-0236 jimspackagestore.com Our Market: 1 East Chop Drive, Oak Bluffs 508-693-3000 · ourmarketmv.com Tony’s Market: 119 Dukes County Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-4799 tonysmarketmv.com Vineyard Wine Shop: 38 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-0943

BREWERIES Bad Martha Farmer’s Brewery: 270 Upper Main Street, Edgartown · 508-939-4415 badmarthabeer.com Offshore Ale Co.: 30 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs · 508-693-2626 offshoreale.com

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BARRY BERMAN

G O B E N E AT H T H E S U R FA C E

Martha’s Vineyard

Subscribe: VINEYARDGAZETTESTORE.COM (508) 627-4311

M AG A Z I N E

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ISLAND GUIDE 2021

Edgartown’s Only Waterfront Resort Located on the harbor in the heart of Edgartown, the Harborside Inn is Martha’s Vineyard’s premier waterfront resort. Boasting 90 beautifully appointed guest rooms and suites with luxury amenities including a heated waterfront pool and private docks.

Please inquire about hosting your corporate retreat or special event. Theharborsideinn.com | 855-380-6314 or 508-627-4321 | info@theharborsideinn.com 3 South Water Street | PO Box 67 | Edgartown, MA. 02539

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L A S T PAG E

First Place

AND THE WINNER IS...

THE ENTRIES

came from California to Georgia, Texas to North Da-

kota. They captured the Island from Aquinnah to Oak Bluffs. There were scenes of sand and surf, of epic sunsets and trusty lighthouses – everything that makes the Island a great place to photograph. In the end, after reviewing almost 1,000 images, the judges for the twelfth annual Martha’s Vineyard Magazine Photo Contest chose Karen Morgenbesser's shot of a lone cow looking through the haze as the first place winner. Morganbesser took the photo one foggy morning at the FARM Institute in Katama. One judge called it “peaceful, evocative, striking.” To enter the thirteenth annual Martha’s Vineyard Magazine Photo Contest, visit mvmagazine.com.

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