Vino & Fino Montenegro 2022 by Vino & Fino magazine

SPECIJALNO IZDANJE / SPECIAL ISSUE

SPECIJALIZOVANI MAGAZIN ZA VINSKU I GASTRO KULTURU

SPECIJALNO IZDANJE / SPECIAL ISSUE JULI 2022 / JULY 2022 IZDAVAČ / PUBLISHER Puna jedra DOO

redakcija@vf.rs www.vinoifino.rs 060 05 01 534 GLAVNI I ODGOVORNI UREDNIK EDITOR IN CHIEF Igor Luković igor@vf.rs IZVRŠNI UREDNIK EXECUTIVE EDITOR Nenad Kostić nenad.kostic@vf.rs ADVERTAJZING DIREKTOR ADVERTISING MANAGER Zdenka Kostić zdenka.kostic@vf.rs DIREKTOR FOTOGRAFIJE PHOTO EDITOR Martin Candir

FOTOGRAFIJE PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock, Freepik LIKOVNO-GRAFIČKI UREDNIK DESIGN AND LAYOUT Biljana Babić SARADNICI / CONTRIBUTORS Jelena Stojčić, Dušan Vranić, Perica Radović, Vuk Vuletić, Vuk Štefanović, Ilija Baša, Katarina Vučić, Mladen Dragojlović, Saša Špiranec, Ivana Simjanovska, Nenad Andrić, Đurđa Katić, Gordan Paunović, Tomislav Ivanović, Bogdan Đaković, Miroslav Šokčić, Jovana Seničan Jankov, Stevica Birčanin, Robert Čevari, Petar Ristović Pisma, predloge i sugestije šaljite na: redakcija@vf.rs ŠTAMPA / PRINT DMD štamparija, Beograd CIP - Каталогизација у публикацији Народна библиотека Србије, Београд 663.2+641.5 Vino & Fino : specijalizovani magazin za vinsku i gastro kulturu / glavni i odgovorni urednik Igor Luković. - [2013], br. 7- . - Zrenjanin : Puna Jedra, [2013](Beograd : DMD štamparija). - 31cm Preuzima numeraciju publikacije Wine & Fine ISSN 2334-7902 = Vino & Fino COBISS.SR-ID 198188812 Izdavač ne odgovara za sadržinu objavljenih oglasa. Izdavač nije u obavezi da objavljuje demantije tekstova u kojim se iznose mišljenja, već samo onih u kojima se iznose činjenice. Magazin se ne distribuira licima mlađim od 18 godina, i namenjen je profesionalcima u HoReCa sektoru, između ostalih i proizvođačima i distributerima duvanskih proizvoda.

UVODNIK / EDITORIAL

Dragi prijatelji vina, gastronomije i hedonizma, Malo je tako lijepih mjesta na svijetu, poput Crne Gore, koja pored mora, planina i izuzetne klime istovremeno nude i autentična vina, te zdravu i ukusnu tradicionalnu hranu, podjednako iz mediteranske, kao i kontinentalne tradicije. Tu je sve: od plodova mora i svježe ribe, preko zrelih pršuta i jedinstvenih sireva, pa sve do visoke, moderne gastronomije koju interpretiraju neki od najboljih šefova ovog dijela svijeta. Prijateljska i otvorena, Crna Gora kao destinacija privlači turiste koji znaju šta žele i umiju izabrat kvalitet. Zato je ta beskrajno lijepa zemlja i tržište za najfinija vina svijeta i čitavog regiona. U prvom izdanju magazina Vino & Fino Montenegro, pišemo o samo malom dijelu vinskih, gurmanskih i hedonističkih ljepota Crne Gore! Sigurni smo da ćete guštati! Do slijedećeg čitanja, Živjeli!

Dear friends of wine, gastronomy and hedonism, There are few such beautiful places in the world as Montenegro, which in addition to the sea, mountains and exceptional climate at the same time offer authentic wines and healthy and delicious traditional food, stemming from both the Mediterranean and continental traditions. There is everything: from seafood and fresh fish, through ripe prosciutto and unique cheeses, to haute cuisine, contemporary gastronomy interpreted by some of the best chefs in this part of the world. Friendly and open, Montenegro as a destination attracts tourists who know what they want and know how to choose quality. For that reason, this country of timeless beauty is the market for the finest wines of the world and the entire region. In the first issue of Vino & Fino Montenegro magazine, we write only about a tiny fraction of wine, gourmet and hedonistic beauties of Montenegro! We are convinced that you will enjoy it! Until next issue, Cheers!

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MOZAIK

CIJELI REGION ZABLISTAO NA DECANTER-U Medaljama na Decanter World Wine Awards ovjenčala se i Crna Gora Na ovogodišnjem ocjenjivanju Decanter World Wine Awards, vinari iz našeg regiona pokazali su, još jednom, da imaju čime da se nadmeću na međunarodnom tržištu. Regionalna vina osvojila su veliki broj odličja, a među nagrađenim vinima su i ona iz Crne Gore.

Hrvatski vinari ove godine mogu da se pohvale sa tri platinaste medalje, i to za malvaziju Santa Lucia 2017 istarske vinarije Kozlović, potom San Salvatore Muškat 2017 kuće Benvenuti, kao i za oranžno vino Haiku 2019 kuće Šoškić. Hrvatska je osvojila i 16 zlatnih medalja.

Crnogorski vinari osvojili su u Londonu ukupno deset medalja - bronzanih i srebrnih - a jedino vino koje je osvojilo više od 90 poena je Vranac Pro Corde 2018 kuće Plantaže, kome su sudije Dekantera dodijelile 91 poen. I druga vina Plantaža osvojila su medalje, i to bronzane, za etikete Crnogorska Malvazija 2020, Luča 2020, Stari Podrum Cuvee Terroir Vranac-Petit Verdot 2018, Stari Podrum Zlatna Berba Merlot 2018, Crnogorski Vranac 2018, Vladika 2018 i Val Brut 2016.

Vino Merak 2021, ambiciozna kupaža vranca, merloa i plavca malog, koja na etiketi nosi potpis enologa Marka Stojakovića osvijetlilo je obraz kuće Tikveš i makedonskog vinarstva, osvojivši 97 poena i platinastu medalju. Vinari Sjeverne Makedonije osvojili su i četiri zlatne medalje. Jedinu platinu za Sloveniju odnijelo je pjenušavo vino Zero Brut kuće Ščurek. Uz platinu i vrtoglavih 97 poena za ovaj pjenušavac, slovenački vinari osvojili su i sedam zlatnih medalja. Od ukupno 23 priznanja na ovogodišnjem DWWA, vinari iz Bosne i Hercegovine osvojili su i jedno zlato, i to za izvanrednu žilavku Selekcija 2021 vinarije Vilinka.

Vinari iz Srbije oborili su sopstveni rekord na Dekanteru, osvojivši devet zlata. Vino SoviNoa Fume Blanc 2020 vinarije Matijašević je sa 96 poena najbolje ocijenjeno vino iz Srbije, dok je Prokupac 2018 iz Doje dobio i posebnu oznaku Value Gold. Srpska vina osvojila su i 30 srebrnih medalja, kao i 46 bronzanih.

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MOSAIC

THE ENTIRE REGION EXCELLED AT DECANTER Montenegro also won medals at the Decanter World Wine Awards

This year, Croatian winemakers can boast of three platinum medals, for Malvasia Santa Lucia 2017 from the Istrian Kozlović Winery, then San Salvatore Muscat 2017 from Benvenuti Winery as well as for the orange wine Haiku 2019 from Šoškić Winery. Croatia also won 16 gold medals Wine Merak 2021, an ambitious blend of Vranac, Merlot and Plavac Mali, which bears the signature of oenologist Marko Stojaković has done credit to Tikveš Winery and Macedonian winemaking, having won 97 points and a platinum medal. Winemakers from North Macedonia also won four gold medals.

At this year's Decanter World Wine Awards, winemakers from our region showed once again that they can compete in the international market. Regional wines have won a large number of medals, and among the awarded wines are also those from Montenegro. Montenegrin winemakers won a total of ten medals in London - bronze and silver - and the only wine that scored more than 90 points is Vranac Pro Corde 2018 from Plantaže Winery to which the Decanter judges awarded 91 points. Other wines from Plantaže scored well and won medals, including bronze ones, for the labels Crnogorska Malvazija 2020, Luča 2020, Stari Podrum Cuvee Terroir Vranac-Petit Verdot 2018, Stari Podrum Zlatna Berba Merlot 2018, Crnogorski Vranac 2018, Vladika 2018 and Val Brut 2016.

The only platinum for Slovenia was taken by the sparkling wine Zero Brut from Ščurek Winery. In addition to platinum and a stunning 97 points for this sparkling wine, Slovenian winemakers also won seven gold medals. Out of 23 awards in total at this year's DWWA, winemakers from Bosnia and Herzegovina have won one gold, for the outstanding Žilavka Selection 2021 from Vilinka Winery.

Winemakers from Serbia broke their own record at Decanter, having won nine gold medals. The wine SoviNoa Fume Blanc 2020 from Matijašević Winery is the best rated wine from Serbia with 96 points, while Prokupac 2018 from Doja received a special Value Gold label. Serbian wines also won 30 silver medals, as well as 46 bronze ones.

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MOZAIK / MOSAIC

PLATINE I ZLATA ZA REGION PLATINUM AND GOLDS FOR THE REGION HRVATSKA

BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA

CROATIA

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

PLATINA / PLATINUM

ZLATO / GOLD

Benvenuti, San Salvatore Muškat 2017 Dvorska Šoškić, Haiku 2019 Kozlović, Santa Lucia Malvazija 2017

ZLATO / GOLD Tomaz, Barbarossa Teran 2019 DeMar, Graševina 2020 Vučemilović, Vallis Rabiosa Desertno Vino 2020 Zlatno brdo, Gold Cuvée 2020, Vina Mario Banko, Cuvée Sv. Šimun 2019 Vivoda, St. Euphemia Malvazija Istarska 2018 Puhelek Purek, Sauvignon 2021 Matić, Afrodita Malvazija Istarska Jakopić. "R" Rizling Rajnski 2019 Zure, Reventón Sur Lie Grk 2019 Zure, Bartul Grk 2019 Kraljevski vinogradi, Prestige Pošip 2019 Fakin, Teran 2021 Iločki podrumi, Izborna berba prosušenih bobica Traminac 2016 Štampar, Sauvignon 2021 Korlat, Supreme 2013 SEVERNA MAKEDONIJA NORTH MACEDONIA

PLATINA / PLATINUM Merak, Vranec-Merlot-Plavec 2021

ZLATO / GOLD Venec, 56 Reserva 2018 Dalvina, Ar-Magedon Cuvee Barrique 2016 Dalvina, Hermes Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Domaine Tikveš, Barovo 2019

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Vilinka, Selekcija 2021 SLOVENIJA SLOVENIA

PLATINA / PLATINUM Ščurek, Zero Brut 2019

ZLATO / GOLD Atelijer Kramar, Bohem 2019 Marc, Pinela 2021 Erzetič, Orbis Rebula 2018 Steras, Epulon 2019 Istenič, Prestige Extra Brut 2013 Brič, Vinagra Refošk 2018 Klet Brda, Bagueri Superior Rebula 2018

SRBIJA SERBIA

ZLATO / GOLD Matijašević, SoviNoa Fumé Blanc 2020 Aleksandrović, Regent Reserve 2018 Doja, Prokupac 2018 Doja, Breg Prokupac 2017 Veritas, Momentum Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Aleksić, Amanet Vranac 2019 Aleksić, Žuti Cvet Penušavo Tamnjanika Sec 2019 Aleksić, Biser Smederevka Extra Brut 2016 Reljić, Rebus Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Probus 2018

MOZAIK / MOSAIC

NAGRADE ZA NAJBOLJA VINA BALKANA Jedanaesti BIWC (The Balkans International Wine Competition), najvažnije vinsko ocenjivanje u regionu, održan je 1-3 juna na ostrvu Salamina kraj Atine. Najveće priznanje BIWC-a, veliki trofej takmičenja, dodeljeno je vinu Bela voda belo 2021 vinarije Tikveš iz Severne Makedonije. Nagradu Best of Show Montenegro, za najbolje vino iz Crne Gore poslato na ovogodišnji BIWC, pripalo je vinu Stari Podrum Vranac 2013 kuće Plantaže. Ovo vino ujedno je i jedno od ukupno sedam vina iz Crne

Gore koja su osvojila zlatne medalje na BIWC-u - pored pet etiketa iz Plantaža (Stari Podrum 2013, Nota 2021, Stari Podrum Cuvee Terroir 2018, Vranac Barrique 2018, Malvasia 2021), zlata su dodeljena i za Sauvignon Blanc 2021 vinarije Keković Estate i za Merlot 2019 vinarije Mola. Srbiji su ove godine na BIWC-u pripali trofeji za najbolje crveno suvo vino i za najbolje crveno vino od autohtonih sorti (Ivanović No 1/2 2018 i Grabak Prokupac 2019), jedanaest dvostrukih zlata i 45 zlatnih medalja.

AWARDS FOR THE BEST BALKAN WINES The island of Salamina near Athens hosted the 11. BIWC (The Balkans International Wine Competition), the most influential regional wine competition. BIWC Grand Trophy was awarded to North Macedonia's wine Bela voda White 2021, from Tikveš winery. The award Best of Show Montenegro, for the best wine from the national wine selection on this year's BIWC, was presented to the winery Plantaže and their wine Stari Podrum Vranac 2013. This wine, along with six more wine labels from the

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Montenegro, was awarded with the BIWC gold medal: five wines from Plantaže (Stari Podrum 2013, Nota 2021, Stari Podrum Cuvee Terroir 2018, Vranac Barrique 2018, Malvasia 2021), Keković Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2021 and Mola Merlot 2019. Serbia was awarded with two trophies (best dry red - Ivanović No 1/2 2018 and best wine from indigenous variety - Grabak Prokupac 2019), 11 double gold medals and 45 gold medals.

MOZAIK

Wine Vision by Open Balkan 2022

BEOGRAD U SEPTEMBRU VINSKI CENTAR REGIONA Prvi međunarodni sajam vina Vinska vizija - Otvoreni Balkan 2022 biće održan u Beogradu od 1. do 4. septembra. Manifestacija će okupiti vinare sa celog Balkana, a najavljena su i velika vinska imena iz ostatka Evrope i sveta.

prestonica najboljih vina tokom trajanja ovog sajma, Beograd će okupiti najeminentnije vinare, vinogradare, majstore podrume, enologe, somelijere i trgovce vinom, kao i izlagače iz najpoznatijih evropskih i svetskih vinarija.

Cilj sajma je da proslavi vrhunsko umeće majstora u proizvodnji najboljih vina i promoviše jedinstveni spoj ukusa i mirisa koji predstavljaju kako duh samog Balkana, njegovu geografiju i bogatstvo sorti, tako i mentalitet onih koji na poseban način uživaju u vinima ovog i drugih podneblja. Sajam je organizovan pod pokroviteljstvom vlada Srbije, Severne Makedonije i Albanije u okviru inicijative Otvoreni Balkan, a biće održan u halama Beogradskog sajma.

Manifestaciju će ispratiti najznačajniji svetki vinski mediji, a svoj dolazak najavili su i brojni vinski eksperti, nosioci titule Master of Wine.

Prvi dan manifestacije biće rezervisan isključivo za profesionalne posetioce, sa naglaskom na kupce i distributere, kada će biti organizovan i niz B2B sastanaka sa vinarima. Naredna tri dana, Wine Vision 2022 biće otvoren za sve posetioce od 12 do 20 časova. Kao

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Sajam vina Vinska vizija Otvoreni Balkan 2022 biće najveća vinska manifestacija održana u ovom delu Evrope, a izlagački deo pratiće i bogat program koji uključuje sajamsko takmičenje Open Balkan Wine Trophy 2022, stručne skupove različitih formata, masterklasove i radionice, razgovore o potencijalima vinske industrije na Balkanu, mogućnostima za pojačano učešće na svetskim tržištima, kao i B2B susrete sa kupcima i distributerima vina iz celog sveta. Svoj dolazak na sajam već su najavili kupci i distributeri iz celog sveta.

MOSAIC

Wine Vision by Open Balkans 2022

IN SEPTEMBER, BELGRADE WILL BE THE WINE CENTER OF THE REGION The first international wine fair Wine Vision by Open Balkans 2022 will be held in Belgrade from September 1-4. The event will gather winemakers from all Balkans countries, along with prominent wine personalities from the rest of Europe and the world. The goal of this fair is to celebrate the supreme winemaking skills of Balkans wine masters, and to promote the unique fusion of aroma and taste that is the true representation of the Balkans spirit, its geography and the diversity of the grape varieties, as well as the unique mentality of the wine lovers of this region. The fair is organized under the auspices of goverments of Serbia, North Macedonia and Albania, as part of the initiative Open Balkans. The fair will be hosted by Belgrade Fair. First day of the event will be reserved for professionals, with special focus on buyers and distributors, through numerous B2B meetings with representatives from the

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regional wineries. Following this, Wine Vision 2022 will be open for the general audience for the period of three days, from 12 to 20h. Belgrade, wine capital of the region for the duration of the fair, will gather the preeminent winemakers, winegrowers, oenologists, sommeliers and wine traders, as well as exhibitors from the famous wineries of Europe and the world. The fair will be featured in major wine media of the world, and many wine experts and Masters of Wine have already confirmed their participation. Wine fair Wine Vision by Open Balkans 2022 will be the largest wine event in this part of the Europe, and the wine exhibition will be accompanied by competition Open Balkans Wine Trophy 2022, various panels, masterclasses and workshops, discussions on potentials of the Balkans wine industry, strategies for the enhanced presence on the wine markets of the world, along with B2B meetings with buyers and distributors from the whole world, many of which have already announced their arrival in Belgrade.

Priča o malvazijama, od Istre do Madere

Ponuda malvazija je velika, kao i stilski spektar u kome se ta vina prave - a ono što i poneki vinoljubac ne zna jeste da malvazija, zapravo, ni ne postoji kao jedinstvena sorta Malvazija je na Mediteranu sinonim za uživanje pored obale, uz dobro spremljenu ribu, muziku i veselo društvo. Doskora je na našim prostorima doživljavana isključivo kao svježe vino namijenjeno širokoj potrošnji, bez velikih pretenzija - a onda je vinski bum, koji je zahvatio vinorodni Balkan, dodirnuo i malvaziju i nadahnuo vinare da od te sorte prave i ambiciozna vina namijenjena slanju na velika međunarodna takmičenja, i kojima je mjesto i u vinskim podrumima kolekcionara. Posebno mjesto tu su zauzeli vinari iz Istre, koji su svoju - sasvim posebnu - istarsku malvaziju učinili jednim od najpopularnijih vina duž cijele jadranske obale, ali i u Srbiji, Bosni i širom srednje Evrope.

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Ponuda malvazija je velika, kao i stilski spektar u kome se prave - a ono što i poneki vinoljubac ne zna jeste da malvazija, zapravo, ni ne postoji kao jedinstvena sorta. Izraz malvazija označava grupu sorti i varijeteta koji se tradicionalno gaje na Mediteranu i na atlantskom ostrvu Madera. U ovu grupu spadaju i genetski iste sorte različitih imena, i sorte i varijeteti koji zaista imaju različit genetski profil, ali dijele veliki broj karakteristika sa drugim sortama koje nose naziv malvazija.

VINSKE PRIČE

Stručnjaci vjeruju da su sve sorte koje se danas zovu malvazijom veoma stare, i da najvjerovatnije potiču iz Grčke. Po ovim teorijama, ime malvazija nastalo je po grčkom gradu Monemvasia, koji su Italijani zvali Malvazija. Ovaj lučki grad bio je poznat po trgovini vinom, i preko njega su vina sa Peloponeza dospijevala na sjever Jadrana i dalje u Evropu. Grčki izvori navode da je bilo mletačkih trgovaca vinima koji su bili u potpunosti orijentisani na malvaziju, i čak su svoje radnje zvali tim imenom. U vezi sa gradom Monemvasia postoji i prilična terminološka zbrka: jedna grčka sorta nosi naziv monemvasia, ali DNK analize pokazale su da ona nema nikakve genetske veze sa sortama koje danas poznajemo pod imenom malvazija. Malvaziju danas možemo naći širom Sredozemlja. Vina pod tim imenom prave se u Italiji, na Siciliji, Korzici, Sardiniji, Hrvatskoj, Kanarskim ostrvima, Grčkoj, Španiji, Maderi... Od prije nekoliko decenija areal malvazije proširen je i na vinske zone Novog svijeta, kao što su vinogradarske regije SAD i Australije. A poseban je kuriozitet da se malvazija, i to istarska, zahvaljujući neobičnom porodičnom spletu okolnosti i vrednoći i inovativnosti fruškogorskih vinara - tačnije, vinarki, sestara Vrkatić, vlasnica vinarije Verkat - danas uzgaja i na Fruškoj gori u Srbiji. Iako malvazija ima mnogo imena i lica, najveći broj vinograda pod ovom grupom sorti zasađen je takozvanom bijelom malvazijom (malvasia bianca). Od ove sorte, u najvećem broju slučajeva prave se mirna, svježa suva vina koja nisu namijenjena dugom odležavanju i piju se mlada i lijepo rashlađena. Malvazija se koristi i u kupažama, naročito u Italiji gdje se često miješa sa trebjanom.

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VINSKE PRIČE

Jedna sorta malvazije uspješno se gaji i u Crnoj Gori: malvasia aromatica raste, zahvaljujući vinariji Plantaže 13. juli, na vrelom i sušnom Ćemovskom polju, na kome se u nekim berbama dogodi i da bobice malvazije djelimično dehidriraju nakon što su dostigle fenolnu zrelost. Na ovaj način, u pojedinim berbama je Plantaže Malvazija vino sa izraženo koncentrovanim, sočnim karakterom. A u svakoj berbi ovo vino obiluje svježinom, aromama bresaka i kajsija, sa atraktivnom citrusnom završnicom, što su, zapravo, osobine koje bi trebalo da očekujemo od svih svježih vina koja se prave sa nekom od sorti koje nose zbirni naziv malvazija.

Malvazija je po svojoj prirodi savršena za uparivanje sa predjelima i sa ribom. Svježina malvazije odlično se uklapa sa platama sireva i sa kremastim kanapeima od mesa - ne preslanog - ili morskih plodova. A u tokom glavnog obroka, svježa malvazija veoma je svestrano vino, koje će se prije svega lijepo složiti uz plemenitu bijelu ribu kao što su brancin ili orada. Njena svježina dovoljna je da se "izbori" i sa hobotnicom ispod sača, gratiniranim Jakovljevim kapicama i sličnim zalogajima iz mora, a savršen je, nepretenciozan parnjak i rustičnom, jednostavnom jelu kao što je ručno pravljena pasta sa biberom, parmezanom i maslinovim uljem. U vrijeme kada se pravljenju vina od malvazije pristupalo sa manje ambicija nego danas, ponekad je iznošeno mišljenje da je posrijedi vino koje treba piti u teroaru u kome je nastalo i da ćemo, opijeni zvukom cikada i talasa, više uživati u njemu. Danas to više nije slučaj. Malvazija je sorta sa kojom se postupa veoma ozbiljno, i koja daje vina "pretplaćena" na nagrade velikih međunarodnih ocjenjivanja. Dobro odabrana boca malvazije danas ima moć da nas, čak i ako smo daleko od mora, u potpunosti vrati u beskrajno plavetnilo Mediterana, i podari nam sveobuhvatan uvid u njegove duge i uzbudljive vinarske tradicije.

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Istra je, kada je malvazija u pitanju, sasvim specifična zona. U njoj se gaji posebna sorta po imenu malvazija istarska, i ona apsolutno dominira u vinogradima pod belim grožđem. Vinari iz Istre dokazali su da raspolažu zaista dobrom sortom od koje se redukcijom roda i pažljivim radom u podrumu dobijaju svježa vina namijenjena brzoj potrošnji, ali veoma visokog kvaliteta. U njihovoj proizvodnji često se koristi i duža maceracija - od 6 do 24h - koja daje punija, kremasta, ali i dalje svježa vina. Mlada malvazija iz Istre ima blago cvijetnu aromu sa tonovima bagrema, stonog voća i citrusa, dok one malvazije namijenjene odležavanju u drvetu hrasta ili bagrema imaju snažnu strukturu i kompleksne arome. Još jedan stil malvazije karakterističan je za Istru: narandžasta vina koja zahtijevaju veoma dugu maceraciju i odležavanje u drvetu. To su vina iz sa dosta alkohola i snažnih aroma, spremna za dugo čuvanje. Od malvazije istarske prave se i slatka, pa i pjenušava vina kojih je u posljednjih desetak godina sve više.

The story of Malvasia, from Istria to Madeira

There is a wide offer of Malvasia wines as well as the stylistic spectrum in which these wines are made - but what some wine lovers do not know is that Malvasia, in fact, does not even exist as a unique variety. On the Mediterranean, Malvasia is synonymous with enjoyment along the coast, with well-cooked fish, music and merry company. Until recently, it has been perceived in our region exclusively as fresh wine intended for mass consumption, without great aspirations - and then the wine boom, which swept the vinegrowing Balkans, touched Malvasia and inspired winemakers to make ambitious wines from this variety for large international competitions and wine collectors' cellars. A special place was taken by winemakers from Istria, who made their - very special Istrian Malvasia one of the most popular wines along the entire Adriatic coast, but also in Serbia, Bosnia and throughout Central Europe.

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There is a wide offer of Malvasia wines as well as the stylistic spectrum in which these wines are made - but what some wine lovers do not know is that Malvasia, in fact, does not even exist as a unique variety. The term Malvasia means a group of varieties that are traditionally grown in the Mediterranean and on the Atlantic island of Madeira. This group includes genetically the same varieties with different names, as well as varieties that actually have a different DNA profile, but share a large number of features with other varieties called Malvasia.

WINE TALES

Experts believe that all the varieties known as Malvasia nowadays are quite ancient, most likely originating from Greece. According to these theories, the name Malvasia originated from the Greek city of Monemvasia, which the Italians once called Malvasia. This port city was known for its wine trade and from there, wines from the Peloponnese reached the north of the Adriatic and further into inland Europe. Greek sources state that there were Venetian wine merchants completely focused on Malvasia trade and they even called their shops accordingly. There is also a lot of terminological confusion regarding the city of Monemvasia: one Greek grape variety is called Monemvasia, but DNA analyzes have revealed that it shows no genetic connection with the varieties we know today as Malvasia. Malvasia can be found throughout the Mediterranean nowadays. Wines under that name are made in Italy, Sicily, Corsica, Sardinia, Croatia, the Canary Islands, Greece, Spain, Madeira... Since a few decades ago, the Malvasia range has been extended to New World wine zones, such as the vinegrowing regions of the USA and Australia. As a special curiosity, Malvasia, Istrian Malvasia to be more precise, is nowadays grown on Fruška Gora in Serbia owing to the family turn of events and hard work and innovativeness of local winemakers - female winemakers to be precise, Vrkatić sisters, owners of Verkat Winery. Although Malvasia has numerous names and faces, the largest number of vineyards under this group of varieties is planted with the so-called white Malvasia (Malvasia bianca). From this variety, in most cases, still, fresh dry wines are made that are not intended for long aging and they are consumed young and nicely chilled. Malvasia is also used in blends, especially in Italy where it is often mixed with Trebbiano.

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WINE TALES

One variety of Malvasia is also successfully grown in Montenegro: Malvasia aromatica grows in the hot and dry Ćemovsko Polje owing to Plantaže 13. Juli Winery, where in some vintages Malvasia berries may dehydrate partially after reaching phenolic ripeness. In this way, in some vintages, Plantaže Malvazija wine shows distinct concentration and juicy character. Every vintage of this wine abounds in freshness, aromas of peach and apricot, with an attractive citrusy finish, which are, in fact, qualities we should expect from all fresh wines made with one of the varieties that bear the collective name Malvasia.

Malvasia is by its nature perfect for pairing with appetizers and with fish. The freshness of Malvasia matches well with cheese platters and creamy canapés made of meat - not oversalted - or seafood. During the main meal, fresh Malvasia is a very versatile wine, which will go well with noble white fish such as sea bass or gilthead sea bream. Its freshness is sufficient to "handle" clay baked octopus, gratinated St Jacob's scallops and similar seafood snacks. It is also a perfect, yet unpretentious match with a rustic, simple dish such as hand-made pasta with pepper, parmesan and olive oil. At a time when the making of Malvasia wine was approached with less ambition than today, voices were heard occasionally that it was a kind of wine to be consumed in the terroir where it originated from and that we would enjoy it better if intoxicated by the sound of cicadas and waves. That is no longer the case. Malvasia is a variety that is taken very seriously and produces wines "subscribed" to awards on major international wine competitions. A well-chosen bottle of Malvasia today has the power to take us back to the endless blue of the Mediterranean, even if we are far away from the sea, and give us a comprehensive insight into its long and exciting wine traditions.

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Istria is a very specific zone when it comes to Malvasia. A special variety called Istrian Malvasia is grown there and it absolutely dominates local vineyards. Winemakers from Istria have proven that they have at disposal a truly good variety which yields fresh top quality wines intended for fast consumption by reducing the yield and careful work in the cellar. Longer maceration is often used in production - ranging from 6 to 24 hours - which gives creamier, but still fresh wines with more body. Young Malvasia from Istria has a slightly floral aroma with hints of acacia, stone fruit and citrus, while those Malvasia wines intended for aging in oak or acacia barrels show strong structure and complex aromas. Another style of Malvasia is characteristic of Istria: orange wines that require very long maceration and aging in wood. These are wines with high alcohol level and powerful aromas, intended for long ageing. Istrian Malvasia is also used to make sweet as well as sparkling wines whose numbers have been on the rise over the last decade.

VINSKI VODIČ

MORE, LJETO I VINO Naročito kada ste kraj obale mora, na planini ili odmoru, ljeto uvijek prate i laganiji, svježi zalogaji, kao i vina koja se uz takvu hranu najbolje slažu - osvježavajuća, hrskava i razigrana, ali i dalje ozbiljna i karakterna. U potrazi za mineralnim, vibrantnim i kompleksnim vinima, tržište u Crnoj Gori dalo nam je širok izbor. Ovoga puta, fokusirali smo se na vina iz našeg okruženja i naravno, akcenat stavili na bjela i roze vina, uz neko pjenušavo, ali i crveno. Od mineralne malvazije do voćnog bjelog pinoa, od sočnog šardonea do herbalnog sovinjona, od razigrane tamjanika do bogatog grašca i tako sve do karakternih, ali elegantnih crvenih vina. Samo im dodajte sunce, more, posudu sa ledom i po koji birani zalogaj, i uživaćete sigurno!

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WINE GUIDE

SEA, SUMMER AND WINE Summer is always associated with light, fresh bites especially at the seaside or on the mountain vacation. That kind of food asks for refreshing, crunchy and playful wines that still packs some serious character. In our quest for mineral, vibrant and complex wines, we have found out that the wine market of Montenegro has a lot to offer. This time, we have focused on the wines from this region, with obvious accent on white and rose wines, with addition of a couple of and sparkling and red wines. From Malvasia wines with mineral character to fruity Pinot Blanc, from juicy Chardonnay to herbal Sauvignon Blanc, from playful Tamjanika to opulent Grašac, all the way to elegant reds with lots of personality. Just add some sun, sea, ice bucket and a couple of carefully chosen delicacies, and pleasure is sure to follow!

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VINSKI VODIČ / WINE GUIDE

Nota 2021

Sočno vino raskošnog mirisa zrele breskve, dinje, te zrelog mediteranskog limuna i malo herbalnih nota. Pravog južnjačkog karaktera, moćnog i postojanog ukusa. Hrana: Vino idealno da isprati lignje, gambore i hobotnicu na salatu

Juicy wine, opulent with the scent of a ripe peach, melon and ripe Mediterranean lemon, with some herbal notes. True wine of the South, with powerful and persistent taste. Food pairing: Ideal with calamari, shrimps and octopus salad

Plantaže, Crna Gora

Barovo Sauvignon blanc 2021

Očaravajući miris ogrozda i koprive, kao i grejprfruta i limete sa druge strane. Hrskavo vino beskrajne svježine i odlične strukture, sa postojanom, mineralnom završnicom. Hrana: Idealno za aperitiv ili kao pratnja salatama i bijelim sirevima

Charming scent of nettle and gooseberry, along with grapefruit and lime. Crunchy, abundantly fresh wine of excellent structure, with persistent, mineral finish. Food pairing: Perfect as an aperitif, or with salads and white cheese

Malvazija Istarska 2021

Intenzivni miris kore limuna i svježe breskve, uz suptilne floralne tonove i finu mineralnost. U ustima sočno i svježe istovremeno, vibrantno i razigrano vino, dugog i postojanog ukusa. Hrana: Gambori, kapešante i dagnje na bijeloj buzari

Intense aroma of lemon rind and fresh peach, with subtle floral notes and fine minerality. On the palate – juicy and fresh, vibrant and playful, with long and persistent taste. Food pairing: Shrimps, scallops and cooked mussels

Hercegovačka Žilavka 2021

Vino snažnog mediteranskog karaktera, sa puno herbalnosti i mineralnosti. Miriše na mješavinu livadskoga i začinskog bilja, bijelu breskvu, zrelu dinju i citruse. Čvrstog, preciznog ukusa sa puno voćne sočnosti. Hrana: sir iz mješine, bijela riba na gradele, prasetina, ćuretina

Wine of strong Mediterranean character, herbal and with lots of minerality. with intense herbality and minerality. Aroma is the combination of field flowers and herbs, white peach, ripe melon and citruses. Firm, precise taste with lots of juiciness. Food pairing: Traditional cheese from Hercegovina, grilled white-meat fish, young pork, turkey

Tikveš, Severna Makedonija

Benvenuti, Istra, Hrvatska

Vukoje, Hercegovina, BiH

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Tikveš, Severna Makedonija

Benvenuti, Istra, Hrvatska

Vukoje, Hercegovina, BiH

VINSKI VODIČ / WINE GUIDE

Žuti cvet Sec penušavo 2019

Žuti cvet Sparkling Sec 2019

Zavodljivi muskatni karaker donosi miris zove, bosiljka, ličija i žute jabuke. Osvježavajući i lepršavi ukus sa naglašenim cvjetnim notama i finim, hrskavim mjehurićima. Hrana: svježe salate, grilovani sir, karpaćo od bijele ribe

Seductive character of the muscat grapes brings forward the aroma of elderflower, basil, lichi and yellow apple. Refreshing and joyful taste with prominent floral tones and chrispy bubbles. Food pairing: Fresh salads, grilled cheese, fish carpaccio

Aleksić, Vranje, Srbija

Terasa Chardonnay 2020

Miris koji odiše zrelošću i punoćom, sa karakterom tropskog voća, zrele kruške, dinje i ananasa. Tu su i plemenite, nježne vanilinske note hrasta. Umereno puno, zaokruženo, kremasto, sa puno voća u završnici. Hrana: pasta karbonara, grdobina, rep jastoga, ćuretina

Abundantly ripe and full aroma, with the character of tropical fruits, ripe pear, melon and pineapple. Noble, discrete touch of the oak. Moderately full, well rounded, creamy, with lots of fruits in the finish. Food pairing: carbonara, monkfish, lobster tail, turkey

Rose Sec 2021

Plemenito vino koje miriše na lubenicu, grejpfrut i sitne crvene bobice, a tu su i herbalni tonovi matičnjaka i zelenog voća. Na jeziku razigran i ljepršav, bogat, sa notama maline i crvenog voća. Hrskavo i svježe, ali veoma kompleksno. Hrana: škampi na crvenu buzaru, pašašuta, brudet

Noble wine with the aromas of watermelon, grapefruit and red berries, with herbal accents of lemon balm and green fruit. Playful on the mouth, rich, tasting of strawberries and red fruit. Crunchy and fresh with great complexity. Food pairing: Shrimps cooked in crvena buzara (red sauce), pastasciutta, brodetto

Rose Vertiz 2021

Nježno, ali karakterno vino, suptilnog mirisa jagode i zrelog šipka (nara), sa malo tonova zrelih citrusa, sitnog cvijeća i aromatičnog bilja. Elaganto i slojevito, savršenog balansa i veoma svježe. Hrana: njeguški pršut, svježi losos, salate, feta sir

Delicate wine with lots of character and subtle scent of strawberry and ripe pomegranate, small flowers and aromatic herbs. Elegand, with lots of layers, perfectly balanced and very fresh. Food pairing: Njeguši Prosciutto, fresh salmon, salad, feta cheese

Matalj, Negotinska krajina, Srbija

Vinarija Zvonko Bogdan, Subotica

Vinarija Vertiz, Smederevo, Srbija

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Matalj, Negotinska krajina, Srbija

Vinarija Zvonko Bogdan, Subotica

Vinarija Vertiz, Smederevo, Srbija

VINSKI VODIČ / WINE GUIDE

Chardonnay Kovačević 2021

Intenzivnog i očaravajućeg mirisa dinje, banane, tropike, zrele kruške i žute jabuke. U ustima sočno, slasno, raskošne voćnosti i veoma postojano. Hrana: ćuretina sa mlincima, dinja sa pršutom, bijela riba u kremastim sosovima

Intense and charming aromas of melon, banana, tropical fruit, ripe pear and yellow apple. On the mouth – juicy, with opulent character of the fruit. Very persistent. Food pairing: Turkey with mlinci (thin dried flatbread), melon with prosciutto, white-meat fish with creamy sauce

Vinarija Kovačević, Fruška gora, Srbija

Trijumf Gold 2021

Snažni karakter zrelog tropskog voća, nektarine, grejpfruta, svježe pokošene trave, paprike… Čelično svež, a bogat i strukturan, intenzivno aromatičan. U ustima se dugo prepliću liči, limeta, herbalne note… Hrana: svježe šparoge, plemenita bjela riba na gradele, koziji sir

Powerful character of the ripe tropical fruit, nectarines, grapefruit, cut grass, green pepper. Fresh as a steel, rich, with good structure and intense aroma. On the mouth – interwoven tastes of the lichi, lime, herbs... Food pairing: Fresh asparagus, grilled noble white-meat fish, goat cheese

Kišov Grašac beli 2021

Snažni miris mejer limuna, zelene i žute jabuke, kajsije i zrele breskve. Pravi potentni mladi grašac. Raskošan i sočan na nepcima, izvrsne strukture i kompleksne završnice. Hrana: oslić na lešo, pečena škarpina, dagnje na bjelu buzaru, mladi sir

Strong aroma of the Meyer lemon, green and yellow apple, apricot and ripe peach. Snažni miris mejer limuna, zelene i žute jabuke, kajsije i zrele breskve. Strong and youthful grašac. Opulent and juicy on the palate, with exquisit structure and complex finish. Food pairing: Boiled hake, baked red scorpionfish, mussels cooked in bela buzara (white sauce), young cheese

Malvazija istarska 2021

Čist i precizan, tipičan miris malvazije sa žutim voćem, citrusima i cvjetom akacije. Intenzivna u ustima, sa jedne strane sa puno voćne sočnosti, a sa druge tu je naglašena slanost i mineralnost. Postojano i slojevito. Hrana: sirovi škampi, kamenice, rakovice, bjela riba na gradele

Clean and precise, with typical Malvasia aroma of the yellow fruit, citrus fruits and acacia flower. Intense on the mouth, with lots of fruitiness and prominent salinity and minerality. Persistent and layered. Food pairing: Fresh shrimps, oysters, crabs and grilled white-meat fish

Vinarija Aleksandrović, Šumadija, Srbija

Vinarija Kiš, Fruška gora, Srbija

Kozlović, Istra, Hrvatska

Vinarija Aleksandrović, Šumadija, Srbija

Vinarija Kiš, Fruška gora, Srbija

Kozlović, Istra, Hrvatska

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VINSKI VODIČ / WINE GUIDE

Grašac 26a 2019

Slasno, kompleksno vino sa puno slatkih začina i plemenitog hrasta, te voćnim notama nektarine i manga. U ustima veoma puno i kompleksno, istovremeno sa obiljem svježine, otvara se u slojevima i donosi zrelu breskvu, krem brule, polen i pečeni limun. Hrana: gregada, riba sa gradela, hobotnica pod pekom

Delicious and complex wine with aromas of sweet spices and noble oak, along with fruity notes of nectarine and mango. Complex and full on the mouth, with abundance of freshness. Opens in layers, bringing forward the tastes of fresh peach, creme brulee, pollen and baked lemon. Food pairing: Gregada (traditional fish soup), grilled fish, baked octopus

Vinum, Fruška gora, Srbija

Constantinus 2017

Crveno vino od organskog grožđa, naglašenog mirisa borovnice, crne trešnje i šljive, uz note hrasta i slatkog duvana. Svježeg, vibrantnog ukusa, fine punoće sa gipkim, mladolikim taninima. Završnica donosi obilje crvenog voća. Hrana: jagnjeći kotleti, parmiđana di melancane

Red wine made with organic grapes, with prominent aromas of blueberry, black cherry, and plum, with accents of oak and sweet tobacco. The taste is fresh and vibrant, nicely full with youthful tannins. Abundance of red fruits in the finish. Food pairing: Lamb chops, parmigiana di melanzane

Cabernet franc 2019

Voćni i začinski kaberne fran donosi šumsko voće i borovnice oplemenjene notama bibera, kafe i dima. Punog tijela i čvrstih tanina, ali gipko i vibrantno vino sa obiljem svježine i dugim voćnim ukusom. Hrana: odrezak na žaru, biftek, balkanski roštilj

Fruity and spicy Cabernet Franc brings forward the forest fruits and blueberries accentuated with black pepper, coffee and smoke. Full body and firm tannins, vibrant with lots of freshness and persistent fruitiness. Food pairing: Grilled steak, beef tenderloin, Balkan-style barbecue

Prokupac 2018

Vino koje istovremeno nudi čvrst karakter i prefinjenu eleganciju, donosi intenzivnu voćnost kupine, šljive i crne trešnje, sa notama mente i zelenog bibera. Elegantno i potentno mlado vino, postojanog i kompleksnog voćno – začinskog ukusa. Hrana: jagnjetina, teletina, odrezak tune, plava riba na žaru

Wine that offers, at the same time, the firm character and refined ellegance, and brings forward the intense fruitiness of the blackberries, plum and black cherry, with accents of mint and green peppercorn. Ellegant and potent young wine, with persistent and complex taste of fruits and spices. Food pairing: Lamb, veal, tuna steak, grilled blue fish

Imperator, Fruška gora, Srbija

Đurđić, Fruška gora, Srbija

Doja, Srbija

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Imperator, Fruška gora, Srbija

Đurđić, Fruška gora, Srbija

Doja, Srbija

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VINOPIS

Kjanti, srce Toskane

Recimo da je Toskana vinski, gastronomski i turistički centar Italije. U središnjem dijelu tog centra nalazi se Kjanti, sasvim izvjesno najpoznatiji vinski brend Italije, čija reputacija raste sa godinama, a sama vina su sve kompleksnija, traženija, cijenjenija i skuplja. Region Kjanti smješten je između Sijene i Firence, a podijeljen je na nekoliko oblasti. Najranije pominjanje vina iz Kjantija dolazi iz trinaestog veka, a u to vrijeme, granice Kjantija u najvećoj mjeri poklapale su se sa onim što danas znamo kao Chianti Classico, region koji je prije tri vijeka zvanično priznat. Naime, 24. septembra 1716. godine, vojvoda Kozimo Mediči Treći objavio je odluku kojom su definisane granice regije Kjanti i oblasti koje su označene kao posebno pogodne za proizvodnju finih vina. Za Chianti Classico ćete često čuti da je zapravo jedini pravi Kjanti. Osim što se istorijska regija Kjanti poklapa sa vinskom regijom Chainti Classico, činjenica je

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da najbolja vina dolaze baš odatle. U regiji Chianti Classico vinogradi zauzimaju oko 7 000 hektara, što ovu oblast čini jednom od najvažnijijh u Italiji. Sve je, naravno, počelo već u antici. Tradicija uzgajanja vinove loze na području Toskane starija je i od Rimskog castva, jer postoje arheološki dokazi da su Etrurci na području današnje Toskane uzgajali vinovu lozu i od nje proizvodili vino mnogo ranije. Tokom istorije kontinuirano imamo dokaze o proizvodnji i trgovini vinima u Toskani. U nekim dokumentima pominju se i bijela i crvena vina iz ove oblasti, ali se od 18. veka kjanti pominje isključivo kao crveno vino. Početkom 19. veka baron Betino Rikazoli propisao je i zvaničan recept za moderni kjanti. Po njegovom uputstvu, u Kjanti je išlo 70% sanđovezea, 15% kanajola, 10% malvazije i 5% drugih lokalnih sorti.

VINOPIS

Generički Chianti: M lada, jednostavna vina, odležavaju najmanje 6 mjeseci. Superiore:

Mekša i punija vina, odležavaju najmanje godinu dana.

Riserva:

ompleksna, bogata i puna, najčešće najbolja vina jedne K vinarije, odležavaju najmanje dvije godine.

Gran Selezione:

N ajbolja vina Chianti Classica, odležavaju najmanje dvije i po godine.

Već početkom 20. vijeka, vina iz Kjantija postala su toliko poznata i tražena, kako u Italiji, tako i u inostranstvu, da tržište više nije moglo da se zadovolji onim što je bilo moguće proizvesti u regiji. Iz tog razloga, proizvodnja vina sa oznakom Kjanti počela je i u drugim, okolnim regijama. Tako su 1932. godine, regije u kojima je moguće proizvesti kjanti postale i oblasti Barberino Val d’Elsa, Chiocchio, Robbiano, San Casciano i Strada. Kako bi zaštitili svoju tradiciju i prepoznatljivost vina, vinari iz tradicionalne regije Kjanti ubrzo su osnovali udruženje Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico. Za zaštitni znak izabran je crni pijetao, tradicionalni znak Vojne lige Kjantija.

Tokom sedamdesetih godina, proizvođači su počeli da smanjuju udio bijelog vina u svojim kupažama, da bi 1995. godine prvi put postalo legalno da se kjanti proizvodi isključivo od sanđovezea. Danas, minimalni procenat sanđovezea je 80% za Chianti Classico, a 70% za običan Chianti, dok se bijele sorte više ne koriste u kupažama.

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VINOPIS

Arome sa kojima ćete se najčešće sresti u kjantiju su crveno voće, najčešće trešnje i višnje, ali i jagode i bobičasti plodovi. Kod dobrih, odležalih kjantija tu su često i balzamsko sirće, sušeno meso, meso divljači, suvo voće, origano, kafa, duvan... Jefitniji kjanti sa generičkom apelacijom najčešće je jednostavno, pitko vino voćnog karaktera, pristupačne cijene, dok su oni kvalitetniji, vina kompleksna, bogata i puna: robusna dok su mlada, a raskošna kad odleže.

U periodu poslije Drugog svjetskog rata, proizvođači u Kjantiju priklonili su se trendu masovne proizvodnje velikih količina jeftinijih vina, što je poljuljalo ugled regije i stvorilo predrasude kod potrošača koje je kasnije bilo teško iskorijeniti. Na sreću, paralelno sa masovnom proizvodnjom i srozavanjem reputacije, grupa vinara istovremeno je mukotrpno radila na proizvodnji drugačijeg, punijeg i kvalitetnijeg kjantija, često svjesno kršeći pravila propisana zakonom o zaštiti geografskog porijekla. Neka od tih vina kasnije su ušla u čuvenu kategoriju Supertoskanaca. Zahvaljujući tom napretku i upornosti vinara, Kjanti 1984. godine dobija oznaku DOCG (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita).

Danas su Kjanti vina traženija nego ikada, a veličina regije učinila ih je široko dostupnim. To znači da možete da pronađete širok spektar vina različitih stilova, cijena i kvaliteta: od opletenih boca za turiste i kjantija iz supermarketa, do velikih, kompleksnih vina koja dugo odležavaju. Ono što vas, osim vina, čeka u Kjantiju, isto je kao i u cijeloj Toskani. To je oblast koju u svakom smislu vrijedi posjetiti. Sa jedne strane tu je Firenca, ali i drugi gradovi puni impresivnih kulturnih spomenika i neponovljive arhitekture, dok su sa druge strane pitoreskni predjeli i brda prekrivena maslinjacima i vinogradima. Toskana je prepuna odličnih restorana, od kojih mnogi nose Mišlenove zvjezdice, a tu su i vinski barovi, tratorije i seoska gazdinstva gdje se po pravilu dobro jede i to lokalna hrana. Toskana čeka da je posjetite!

WINE TRAVELS

Chianti, the heart of Tuscany

One could argue that Tuscany is the wine, gastronomic and tourist center of Italy. Chianti, certainly the most famous wine brand in Italy, whose reputation continues to grow over the years and the wines themselves getting more and more complex, sought after, valued and expensive, stands in the central part of it. Chianti region is located between Siena and Florence and it is divided into several sub-regions. The earliest mention of Chianti wine comes from the thirteenth century, and at that time, Chianti's borders largely coincided with what we know today as Chianti Classico, a region officially recognized three centuries ago. Namely, on September 24th, 1716, Duke Cosimo III de Medici announced a decision defining the boundaries of Chianti region and the areas designated as particularly suitable for the production of fine wines. You will often hear Chianti Classico being the only real Chianti. Beside the fact that the historical Chianti region coincides with Chianti Classico wine region, the best wines indeed

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come from there. In Chianti Classico region, vineyards occupy about 7,000 hectares, which makes this area one of the most important in Italy. Everything, of course, began already in antiquity. The tradition of growing vines in the area of Tuscany is even older than the Roman Empire because there is archaeological evidence that the Etruscans in the area of today's Tuscany grew vines and produced wine from them much earlier. Throughout history, we have continuous evidence of wine production and trade in Tuscany. Some documents mention both white and red wines from this area, but since the 18th century Chianti has been mentioned exclusively as red wine. At the beginning of the 19th century, Baron Bettino Ricasoli prescribed the official recipe for modern Chianti. According to his instructions, 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 10% Malvasia and 5% other local varieties went into Chianti blend.

WINE TRAVELS

Generic Chianti:

Y oung, simple wines, aged at least 6 months.

Superiore:

Softer wines with more body, aged for at least one year.

Riserva:

omplex, rich and full-bodied, usually the best wines of a C winery, aged for at least two years.

Gran Selezione:

T he best wines of Chianti Classico, aged for at least two and a half years.

Already at the beginning of the 20th century, wines from Chianti became so famous and sought after, both in Italy and abroad, that the market could no longer be satisfied with what was feasible to produce in the region. For this reason, the production of wines with the Chianti designation began in other, surrounding regions. Thus, in 1932, the regions where it is possible to produce Chianti wine became the areas of Barberino Val d'Elsa, Chiocchio, Robbiano, San Casciano and Strada. In order to protect their tradition and recognition of wine, winemakers from the traditional Chianti region soon founded the association

Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico. The black rooster, the traditional symbol of the Military League of Chianti, was chosen as the trademark. During 1970s, producers began to reduce the proportion of white wine in their blends and in 1995 it became legal for the first time to produce Chianti exclusively from Sangiovese. Nowadays, the minimum percentage of Sangiovese is 80% for Chianti Classico and 70% for regular Chianti, while white varieties are no longer used in blends.

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WINE TRAVELS

The aromas you will most often encounter in Chianti are red fruits, most often cherries and sour cherries, but also strawberries and berries. Solid, aged Chiantis often include aromas of balsamic vinegar, dried meat, game meat, dried fruit, oregano, coffee, tobacco... Cheaper Chiantis with a generic appellation are usually simple, easy-to-drink wines with a fruity character, affordable prices, while those of better quality show complexity, richness and full-body; they are robust while they are young, and lush when they age.

difficult to eradicate. Fortunately, in parallel with mass production and declining reputation, a group of winemakers at the same time painstakingly worked on the production of a different, more full-bodied and betterquality Chianti, often knowingly violating the rules prescribed by the law on the protection of geographical origin. Some of those wines later entered the famous category of Super Tuscans. Thanks to this progress and the persistence of winemakers, Chianti received the DOCG (Denominazione d'Origine Controllata e Garantita) label in 1984. Today, Chianti wines are more sought after than ever and the size of the region has made them widely available. This means that you can find a wide range of wines of different styles, prices and qualities: from tourist bottles and supermarket Chiantis to big, complex wines that age for a long time.

In the post-World War II period, producers in Chianti embraced the trend of mass-producing large quantities of cheaper wines, which undermined the region's reputation and created prejudices among consumers that were later

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What awaits you in Chianti, apart from wine, is the same as in all of Tuscany. It is an area worth visiting in every sense. On the one hand, there is Florence, but also other cities full of impressive cultural monuments and unique architecture, while on the other hand there are picturesque landscapes and hills covered with olive groves and vineyards. Tuscany is full of excellent restaurants, many of which have Michelin stars, and there are also wine bars, trattorias and farmhouses where, as a rule, local food is a real treat. Tuscany is awaiting you to visit it!

PROMO

BELA VODA WHITE 2021 NAJBOLJE VINO BALKANA! Kuća Tikveš osvojila je na ovogodišnjem BIWC-u veliki trofej za svoju čuvenu kupažu grenaš blana i šardonea Jedna od najpoznatijih etiketa Tikveša, Bela Voda White 2021, proglašena je 16. juna za najbolje vino Balkana na The Balkans International Wine Competition! Na ceremoniji pod vedrim nebom u Sofiji, na platou ispred Nacionalnog parka kulture, dodijeljene su nagrade najboljim balkanskim vinima, a kuća Tikveš odnijela je veliki trofej za svoju čuvenu kupažu grenaš blana i šardonea koja je danas izuzetno važan dio makedonskog vinskog nasljeđa. Bela Voda White je vino koje je steklo kultni status, perjanica i jedna od pionirskih etiketa u Tikvešom dijelu portfolija u kome se nalaze vina koja određuje prije svega njihov teroar. Ova kupaža šardonea i šenan blana nastala je kao kreacija čuvenog Filipa Kambija i Marka Stojakovića, glavnog enologa Tikveša, prije više od deceniju. Vino punog tijela i kremaste strukture, sa kompleksnim mirisom i karakterom tropskog voća upakovanog u oblandu elegantnog uticaja hrasta, sa godinama je samo napredovala. Da je verzija ovog vina iz 2021. godine najbolja do sada, potvrđuje i Veliki trofej na ovogodišnjem izdanju BIWC, gdje je vino oborilo s nogu internacionalni sudijski žiri BIWC, koji je ove godine ocjenjivao vina od 1-3. juna na ostrvu Salamina kod Atine. Velika nagrada za vino Bela Voda White 2021 nastavak je niza uspeha Tikveša u 2022. godini, uključujući i 97 poena i platinastu medalju na Dekanteru za vino Merak Vranec, Merlot & Plavec 2021, koje je potpisao Marko Stojaković. Vino Barovo 2019 osvojilo je zlato na Dekanteru, a medalje je osvojilo još deset vina ove kuće.

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Pre Dekantera, vina kuće Tikveš Châteaux & Domainеs osvojila su, pored ostalih priznanja, i šesnaest medalja na takmičenjima Mundus Vini u Nemačkoj, China Wine & Spirits Awards - Best Value 2022 u Kini i Citadelles Du Vin 2022 u Francuskoj.

PROMO

BELA VODA WHITE 2021 - THE BEST WINE IN THE BALKANS! Tikveš Winery won the Grand trophy at this year's BIWC for its famous blend of Grenache Blanc and Chardonnay One of the most famous labels of Tikveš Winery, Bela Voda White 2021 was declared the best wine in the Balkans on June 16th, 2022 at The Balkans International Wine Competition (BIWC)! At an open-air ceremony in Sofia, on a plateau in front of the National Park of Culture, awards were given to the best Balkan wines and Tikveš Winery took home the grand trophy for its famous blend of Grenache Blanc and Chardonnay, which is nowadays an extremely important part of Macedonia's wine heritage. Bela Voda White is a wine that has gained cult status, a flagship and one of the pioneer labels in Tikveš Winery's segment of portfolio which contains primarily terroir-driven wines. This blend of Chardonnay and Grenache Blanc was created by the famous Philippe Cambie and Marko Stojaković, the chief oenologist of Tikveš, more than a decade ago. A full-bodied wine with a creamy structure,

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complex aromas and the tropical fruit character wrapped in elegant layer influenced by oak ageing, it has only improved over the years. The Grand Trophy at this year's edition of BIWC, where the wine fascinated members of the international jury of BIWC, confirmed that the 2021 vintage of this wine is the best so far, The international jury evaluated wines in the period from 1st June till 3rd June this year on the island of Salamis near Athens. The Grand trophy for Bela Voda White 2021 is a continuation of a series of successes of Tikveš Winery in 2022, including 97 points and a platinum medal at the Decanter for wine Merak Vranec, Merlot & Plavec 2021, signed by Marko Stojaković. Wine Barovo 2019 won gold at the Decanter, and ten more wines from this house won medals. Before Decanter, the wines of Tikveš Châteaux & Domaines won, among other awards, sixteen medals at the Mundus Vini in Germany, China Wine & Spirits Awards - Best Value 2022 in China and Citadelles Du Vin 2022 in France.

HRANA I VINO

KRATKI VODIČ ZA UPARIVANJE RIBE I VINA

Riba i vino: postoji li bolji način da se na trpezi dočara esencija uživanja na morskoj obali? Bilo da uživate u konobi pored luke ili plaže, bilo da sami pripremate ribu, uvijek je korisno znati koja vina će se najbolje sljubiti sa plemenitim ukusima hrane iz mora. Gotovo

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svi tipovi vina imaju svoje parnjake u vidu ribe i morskih plodova, a neka uparivanja će vas vjerovatno iznenaditi! Ili, da to nazovemo vjenčanjem ukusa – kako to somelijeri vole da kažu. A šta ćete bolje od vjenčanja na obali mora?

HRANA I VINO

Iverak, orada, brancin, zubatac - sve ove plemenite bijele ribe izuzetno su delikatnog ukusa koji se u kuhinji najčešće akcentira na najjednostavniji mogući način, umjerenim korišćenjem svježeg začinskog bilja, izvrsnog maslinovog ulja, i bijelog luka. Ove ribe možete naći i u jelima visoke kuhinje, ali na moru - sva je prilika da će biti napravljene "na lešo" ili znalački spremljene na žaru, uz jednostavne dodatke. Pravila za uparivanje ovakve ribe jednostavna su kao i ona sama. Bijela riba zahtijeva aristokratski otmena i svedena bijela vina, bez prejakog dodira drveta - pa i bez drveta uopšte, jer od ovih vina želimo iskričavost, svježinu, i aromatsku strukturu koja neće biti neugodna konkurencija nježnom ukusu ribe. Za ribu sa žara možemo tražiti vina nešto punijeg tijela, a delikatna riba "na lešo" zahtijeva što laganija i svježija vina.

Skuša, sardela, papaline, gof, tuna, šarun... Sve ove plave ribe dijele izuzetnu aromu i veliki sadržaj zdravih supstanci koje, kažu, doprinose dugovječnosti primoraca. Na trpezama restorana, ako izuzmemo vrhunsku, krupnu plavu ribu kao što su tuna i gof, ne dostižu tako visoke cijene kao bijela riba koja se smatra delikatnijom i plemenitijom. Plava riba spada u jednostavna zadovoljstva boravka i života na moru, spremljena bez ikakve ceremonije, i tako i poslužena, idealno u pratnji lokalnog crvenog vina, bilo čistog - kada tanini u vinu, nažalost, mogu da se "sudare" sa ribom i proizvedu metalni ukus - bilo razrijeđenog u bevandi, osvježavajućem primorskom špriceru.

Što se pravila za uparivanje tiče - ovdje primat ima ono koje nema veze sa sortom: pijte ono što je lokalno dostupno i što piju i drugi, bez obzira da li je to plavac mali, vranac, kratošija. Podrazumijeva se da treba izbjegavati vina prejakih tanina i ona koja su dugo barikirana, jer se, čak ni razrijeđena vodom, neće lijepo složiti uz ribu. I još nešto - vina koja se služe uz plavu ribu mogu biti i stepen-dva hladnija nego što je to norma.

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HRANA I VINO

U okviru ovog, vrlo širokog pravila, postoji čitav spektar vina na koja se uvijek možemo osloniti. Pino griđo, sa svojim citrusnim notama, sa aromama bijelih nektarina i jabuka, suv, pun svježih kiselina, jedan je od savršenih pratilaca bijele ribe i, dobro ohlađen - ova sorta to voli! uljepšaće vam veče na obali. Istu reputaciju ima i šenan blan, čuvena međunarodna sorta puna delikatnih voćnih aroma dunje, kruške, jabuke, a sovinjon blan, sa svojim balansom herbalnih tonova i aroma tropskog voća, uvijek je zanimljiv izbor.

Naše podneblje takođe nudi odlične vinske parove za ovakvu ribu. Malvazija će u uparivanje sa vinom donijeti svoj karakteristični miris borovih iglica, herbalnost, note bresaka i kajsija, a tu je i drevni krstač, autohtona sorta Crne Gore, koja osvaja voćnom svježinom.

Izvan svijeta bijele ribe lakog ukusa kriju se veoma zanimljiva uparivanja. Plodovi mora uglavnom se odlikuju jačim aromama, što se odražava i na izbor vina. Jastog sa kremastim sosom na bazi putera jedan je od najjačih gastronomskih parova za isto tako kremasti i bogati šardone. Rakovi će dati sve od sebe uz čist, sveden rizling, pun svježih kiselina. Račići na žaru traže elegantan pino griđo, a kada su spremljeni sa malo jačim umacima i sosovima, roze će se odlično uklopiti uz njih - od suvog provansalskog pa sve do polusuvih rozea jačih aroma. Ostrige, kraljice školjki, ikonički su par sa suvim pjenušavcem, ali će zablistati i uz vrhunski sovinjon blan. Hobotnica, jelo koje se može pripremiti i na grilu i u vidu

osvježavajuće salate snažnih aroma, zahtijeva vino koje će moći da se „probije“ kroz njenu zahtjevnu aromatiku, pa je tako za grilovanu hobotnicu mudro izabrati sovinjon blan snažne arome i visokih kiselina. Sa druge strane, salata od hobotnice, obično pojačana oštrijim vinegretom, otkriće sve svoje aromatske tajne ako je degustiramo uz poletni šenan blan ili uz laki roze sa svježim, iskričavim kiselinama.

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Koje god uparivanje da odaberete, suština slaganja morske hrane i vina je, prije svega, u slušanju ambijenta - ukratko, onako kako se radi tamo gdje je riba uhvaćena, tako radite i vi, i nećete pogriješiti!

FOOD AND WINE

Fish and wine: is there a better way to bring to the table the essence of sea-side pleasures? Whether you enjoy it in a tavern by the harbor or the beach or you prepare fish yourself, it is always useful to know which wines will match the noble flavors of seafood best. Almost all types of wine have their counterparts among fish and seafood, and some pairings will probably surprise you! Or, let's call it a marriage of flavors - as sommeliers like to say. And what can be better than a marriage by the sea?

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FOOD AND WINE

Flounder, gilthead sea bream, sea bass, dentex - all these species of noble white fish have an extremely delicate taste that is most often accentuated in the kitchen in the simplest possible way, with moderate use of fresh herbs, excellent olive oil and garlic. You can also find these fish in haute cuisine dishes, but at sea - there is high probability that they would be made "na lešo" (boiled) or expertly grilled, with basic spices and ingredients. The rules for pairing this kind of fish are as simple as it is. White fish requires aristocratically elegant and lean white wines, without excessive influence of wood ageing - or without any wood ageing, because we want these wines to be crispy, fresh and with aromatic structure that won't affect adversely the delicate taste of fish. For grilled fish, we can opt for wines with a slightly fuller body, whilst delicate "boiled" fish requires lighter and fresher wines.

Within this very broad rule, there is a whole range of wines that we can always rely on. Pinot Grigio, with its citrus notes, with aromas of white nectarines and apples, dry, full of fresh acidity, is one of the perfect companions of white fish and if chilled well - this variety loves it! - It will brighten your evening on the sea coast. Chenin Blanc has the same reputation, it's a well-known international variety full of delicate fruitforward aromas of quince, pear, apple. Sauvignon Blanc with its balance of herbal tones and tropical fruit aromas, is always an interesting choice. Our terroir also offers excellent wine pairing options for this kind of fish. Malvasia will bring its characteristic scent of pine needles, herbal hints, notes of peaches and apricots. One should also mention ancient Krstač, an autochthonous variety of Montenegro, which conquers with its fresh fruit.

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FOOD AND WINE

Mackerel, sardines, sprats, greater amberjack, tuna, Atlantic horse mackerel... All these blue fish species share an exceptional flavor profile and a high content of healthy substances which are said to contribute to the longevity of seafarers. On restaurant tables, if we exclude top-quality, large blue fish such as tuna and great amberjack, they do not reach such high price tags as white fish which is considered more delicate and noble. Blue fish is one of the simple pleasures of staying and living at sea, prepared without any ceremony, and thus served, ideally accompanied by local red wine, either full-strength - when tannins in the wine, unfortunately, can "collide" with the fish and produce metal taste - or diluted in bevanda, a refreshing coastal spritzer.

As for the pairing rules - something that has nothing to do with the grape variety has the primacy here: drink what is locally available and what others drink, no matter whether it is Plavac Mali, Vranac, Kratošija. It goes without saying that wines with too strong tannins and those that have been aged in barrique for a long time should be avoided because, even when diluted with water, they will not go well with fish. And one more thing - wines that are served with blue fish can be a degree or two colder than the standard recommendation.

Beyond the world of light-tasting white fish, there are very interesting pairings. Seafood is generally characterized by stronger flavors, which is reflected in the choice of wine. Lobster with a creamy butter-based sauce is one of the strongest gastronomic pairings for equally creamy and lush Chardonnays. Crabs will do their best with a clean, lean Riesling, full of fresh acidity. Grilled shrimps require elegant Pinot Grigio, but when prepared with slightly stronger sauce, they will fit best with rosé - from dry Provencal to semi-dry rosés with stronger aromas. Oyster, the queen of seashells, is an iconic match with dry sparkling wine, but they will also shine with top quality Sauvignon Blanc. Oc-topus, a dish that can be prepared both on the grill and

in the form of a re-freshing salad with strong aromas, requires a wine that will be able to "break through" its demanding aromatic profile, so it is wise to pick Sauvignon Blanc with intense aromas and high acidity to match grilled octopus. On the other hand, octopus salad, usually enhanced with a sharper vinaigrette dressing, will reveal all its aromatic secrets if we taste it with a lively Chenin Blanc or with light rosé with fresh, crispy acidity.

Egzotični svet morskih plodova

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Whatever pairing you choose, the essence of seafood and wine matching is, above all, listening to the ambience - in short, if you do it the way it is done where the fish is caught, so do you, and you can't go wrong!

INTERVJU

Lazar Ćatović, vlasnik konobe Ćatovića Mlini, Morinj

Nešto slično poput restorana Ćatovića Mlini, garantujem, nigdje još u Crnoj Gori niste vidjeli. To je svijet za sebe, mjesto zbog koga se za Morinj čulo i dalje od Bokokotorskog zaliva i restoran koji je za skoro tri decenije postao nezaobilazna gastronomska i vinska destinacija Crne Gore.

Ako dolazite direktno s mora, do imanja u kome se nalazi stara kamena porodična kuća u kojoj je restoran, po vas će doći Lazar Ćatović lično, šarmantni primorac, ugostitelj i čovjek zbog koga su danas Ćatovića Mlini to što jesu – jedan od najboljih ribljih restorana u Crnoj Gori, a i šire.

- Ugostitelj sam 28 godina i cijeli život se samo ovim bavim. Da bi nešto trajalo, ljudi moraju da vjeruju u to što rade, to je jedini recept za uspjeh. Bio sam veoma mlad kada sam odlučio da će ugostiteljstvo biti moj životni poziv i zaista sam imao ogromnu želju da uspijem. Borio sam se za svakog gosta i trudio se da imam pošten odnos prema svakom od njih. Valjda ljudi kada vide da je nešto iskreno znaju to i da cijene – kaže Lazar Ćatović.

Ćatovića Mlini u vlasništu porodice Ćatović su više od dva vijeka. Konoba postoji 28 godina, a od toga je prvih osam živjela isključivo od lokalnih gostiju, da bi se danas razvila u ozbiljan riblji restoran i gastronomski biser Jadrana.

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INTERVJU

- Počeli smo skromno, kao mala konoba sa veoma svedenim menijem na kojem su bili samo seoski proizvodi. To je bilo još 1999. godine, u vrijeme kada kod nas nije bilo mnogo turista i u početku je zaista bilo teško opstati jer nismo imali goste van Crne Gore. Danas, evo, vjerujte, tek sam skoro postao svjestan šta sam zapravo uradio od konobe, da ljudi specijalno dolaze u Boku da bi jeli u konobi Ćatovića Mlini – objašnjava Lazar Ćatović.

Restoran je otvoren tokom čitave godine, a ukoliko dolazak u Ćatovića Mline planirate ljeti, obavezno rezervišite jer u protivnom teško da ćete naći slobodan sto. Za prvi put ovdje, kako predlaže Lazar, najbolje je da krenete sa salatom od jadranskih kozica sa tikvicama i ananasom, a uz to će najbolje ići domaća, svježe ubrana žućenica. Dalje možete da nastavite sa kremastim rižotom sa lignjama i gamborima, a za glavno jelo dobar izbor je slasna hobotnica. Za desert, idealan je sočni bokeški kolač punjen bademima, maraskino likerom, pa preliven karamelizovanim sosom od narandže. Hrana je ovdje zaista izvrsna, ali ne vole gosti samo zbog toga ovaj restoran. Tu su i domaće vino i jedna od najširih vinskih karti u Crnoj Gori sa preko trista različitih etiketa. Šef kuhinje sa Ćatovićima je praktično od samog početka, kao i većina osoblja, a autentičan enterijer i prelijepo imanje koje se nalazi na izvorima kristalno bistrih rječica koje se ulivaju u more i u nestvarnoj prirodi i zelenilu koju s jedne strane okružuju brda, a s druge zapljuskuje more zajedno čini restoran Ćatovića Mlini destinacijom koju nikako ne bi trebalo da propustite da posjetite kada ste u Crnoj Gori. To je mjesto koje u isto vrijeme odiše romantikom, starim bokeškim šmekom i daškom luksuza.

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INTERVIEW

Lazar Ćatović, the owner of Ćatovića Mlini tavern, Morinj

I guarantee that anything similar to Ćatovića Mlini (Ćatović Millhouse) is nowhere else in Montenegro to be seen. It is a world of its own, a place that has made Morinj known far beyond Boka Kotorska bay and a flagship restaurant that has turned during almost three decades of existence into a major gastronomic and oenological hub of Montenegro.

If you're arriving directly from the seaside at the estate comprising an ancient family house made of stone and now turned into a restaurant, you will be welcomed by Lazar Ćatović in person, a charming seafarer, a genuine professional restaurateur and a man who turned Ćatovića Mlini into what they are nowadays - one of the best fish restaurants in Montenegro and beyond.

- I have been a restaurateur for 28 years and I have only been doing this all my life. For something to last, people have to believe in what they do, it's the only recipe for success. I was very young when I decided that hospitality industry would be my calling in life and I really had a huge desire to succeed. I fought for every guest and tried to have a sincere relationship with each of them. I guess when people see that something is sincere, they know and appreciate it. - Lazar Ćatović speaks honestly.

Ćatovića Mlini has been owned by the Ćatović family for more than two centuries. The tavern has existed for 28 years, and even for the initial eight years, it lived exclusively from serving the local population, whilst it developed subsequently into a top-notch fish restaurant, a sort of gastronomic jewel of the blue Adriatic.

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INTERVIEW

- We started modestly, as a small tavern with a very limited menu serving only dishes made from local ingredients. It was back in 1999, at a time when there were not many tourists here. It was really difficult to survive at the beginning because we had no guests from outside Montenegro. Nowadays, believe me, I have only recently become aware of what I actually accomplished with this tavern, that people specifically come to Boka in order to dine at Ćatovića Mlini. - Lazar Ćatović explains.

The restaurant is open year round and if you plan to visit Ćatovića Mlini in the summer, you must make a reservation because otherwise you will hardly find a free table, especially during July and August. For the first time here, as suggested by Lazar, it is best to start with a salad of Adriatic prawns with zucchini and pineapple, and home-made, freshly picked wild chicory will go best with it. Then proceed with creamy risotto with squid and prawns.For the main course, a good choice is delicious octopus on yellow stone. For dessert, a juicy Boka cake filled with almonds, maraschino liqueur and topped with caramelized orange sauce is an ideal choice. The food here is really excellent, but that's not the only reason why guests like this restaurant. There is also local wine and one of the most comprehensive wine lists in Montenegro with over three hundred different labels. There are several gardens as well in which fruits and vegetables used in meal preparation are grown. The chef has been with the Ćatovićs practically since the beginning, similar to most of the staff. An authentic interior and a beautiful estate located on the springs of crystal clear rivers that flow into the sea and in the surreal nature and greenery on one side surrounded by hills, whilst caressed by the sea waves on the other side, making Ćatovića Mlini a destination that you should never miss when you are in Montenegro. It is a place that exudes romance, old Boka style and a touch of luxury at the same time.

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More, sunce, plaža i omiljeni koktel u ruci – nema bolje kombinacije za pravo ljetnje uživanje, zar ne? Ledeni i osvježavajući, pomalo citrusni, a pomalo i gorki, ljetnji kokteli najukusnije i najbrže će vas rashladiti u vrelim ljetnjim danima. Dobro, možda malo i ošamutiti, ali zar to i nije poenta - ljeto je!

Sea, sun, beach and a favorite cocktail in hand there is no better combination for real summer enjoyment, right? Icy and refreshing, a bit citrusy, and a bit bitter, summer cocktails are the most delicious and fastest way to cool down on hot summer days. Okay, they might cause slight drowsiness, but isn't that the point - it's summer!

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LJETNJI PAR

Popularni koktel koji se pojavljuje u čuvenom filmu Kazablanka, French 75 nastao je u Francuskoj, ali je ipak mnogo više obožavan u Americi, posebno u Njujorku. Ovaj osvježavajući koktel dobio je ime po snažnom artiljerijskom oružju koje je koristila francuska vojska u Prvom svjetskom ratu. U početku se pravio sa konjakom umjesto sa džinom, a danas je bezbroj varijanti ovog koktela. Tradicionalno, pravi se od džina, svježeg limunovog soka i šećernog sirupa koji se prvo promućkaju sa ledom, procijede u čašu, pa zatim preliju šampanjcem i ukrase limunovom korom. Sastojci: džin, svježe cijeđen sok od limuna, šećerni sirup, šampanjac

A popular cocktail that appears in the famous film Casablanca, French 75 originated in France, but it is still much more adored in USA, especially in New York. This refreshing cocktail was named after the powerful artillery weapon used by the French army in the First World War. In the beginning, it was made with cognac instead of gin, and today there are countless variants of this cocktail. Traditionally, it is made from gin, fresh lemon juice and sugar syrup, which are first shaken with ice, strained into a glass, then poured with champagne and decorated with lemon peel. Ingredients: gin, freshly squeezed lemon juice, sugar syrup, champagne

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LJETNJI PAR

Omiljeno piće Al Kaponea, američki klasik Southside Fizz, pravi se skoro čitav vijek, a kao i kod većine koktela njegovo porijeklo obavijeno je misterijom i raznim legendama. Defitivno, najrasprostranjenija priča je da je nastao za vrijeme prohibicije u Čikagu i da ga je popularizovao čuveni Al Kapone. Southside Fizz je jedan je od najosvježavajućih alkoholnih koktela na svijetu, a njegova pripema slična je pravljenju Mohita budući da se listovi nane prvo gnječe u čaši pa se onda dodaju i ostali sastojci. Sastojci: džin, listovi nane, svež sok od lajma, svež sok od limuna, šećerni sirup, soda

Al Capone's favorite drink, the American classic Southside Fizz, has been made for almost a century. As with most cocktails, its origin is shrouded in mystery and various legends. Definitely, the most widespread story is that it was created during the Prohibition in Chicago and that it was popularized by the famous Al Capone. Southside Fizz is one of the most refreshing alcoholic cocktails in the world, and its preparation is similar to making Mojito, since mint leaves are first kneaded in a glass and then other ingredients are added. Ingredients: gin, mint leaves, fresh lime juice, fresh lemon juice, sugar syrup, soda

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LJETNJI PAR

Čuveni koktel Moscow Mule nije nastao u Moskvi kako biste možda pomislili na osnovu njegovog naziva, već u jednom baru u Holivudu još za vrijeme Drugog svjetskog rata. Moscow Mule je koktel koji je spasio Smirnoff votku od propadanja – prvobitno je tako i bio nazvan, Smirnoff Mule. Prema legendi, ovaj koktel je nastao sasvim slučajno kombinacijom dva sastojka koji se u to vrijeme ne bi prodali pojedinačno – votka i pivo od đumbira. Danas, Moscow Mule je jedan od najpoznatijih koktela na svijetu, piće koje je mnogo više od bakarne kič šolje u kojoj se služi.

The famous Moscow Mule cocktail was not made in Moscow, as you might presume based on its name, but in a bar in Hollywood during the Second World War. Moscow Mule is a cocktail that saved Smirnoff vodka from bankruptcy - it was originally called Smirnoff Mule. According to legend, this cocktail was created quite by accident by a combination of two ingredients that would not sell individually at the time - vodka and ginger beer. Nowadays, Moscow Mule is one of the most famous cocktails in the world, a drink that is much more than a kitschy copper cup in which it is served.

Sastojci: votka, pivo od đumbira, svjež sok od lajma, lajm

Ingredients: vodka, ginger beer, fresh lime juice, lime

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LJETNJI PAR

Bellini je klasičan osvježavajući italijanski koktel koji je dobio ime po specifičnoj narandžastoj boji - istoj nijansi kao na jednoj slici Đovanija Belinija, čuvenog umjetnika iz petnaestog vijeka. Bellini je izmislio vlasnik danas čuvenog bara u Veneciji Harry's tako što je pomiješao pire od bijelih breskvi iz Verone sa prosekom. U početku se pravio samo ljeti, kada je sezona breskvi, a danas je dostupan tokom cijele godine. Jedino pravilo za pripremu ovog koktela je da oba sastojka moraju da budu dobro ohlađena. Bellini se nalazi i na listi službenih koktela IBA (International Bartenders Association) što ga čini jednim od najčešće pravljenih koktela na svijetu. Sastojci: proseko, pire od svježih breskvi

Bellini is a classic refreshing Italian cocktail named after a specific orange color - the same hue on a painting by Giovanni Bellini, a famous artist from the fifteenth century. In the beginning, it was made only during the summer, when it is peach season, but today it is available throughout the year. The only rule for preparing this cocktail is that both ingredients must be well chilled. Bellini is also on the list of official IBA cocktails (International Bartenders Association), which makes it one of the most commonly made cocktails in the world. Ingredients: Prosecco, fresh peach puree

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LJETNJI PAR

When he was not in the mood for a Martini, James Bond drank Negroni, a famous drink that has officially been named the bestselling classic cocktail in the world this year, according to the annual report of Drinks International. Its hashtag on Instagram has almost a million posts, and popularity of this Italian cocktail is shown by the fact that it has had its own week in the calendar for more than a decade - Negroniweek, which is traditionally held in September in bars around the world. Negroni is recognizable by its bitter taste and unique red color and although there are dozens of variations, it was originally made from only three ingredients (in the same quantity) that do not mix, but stack over the ice. Finally, the cocktail is decorated with spirally sliced orange peel. Ingredients: sweet vermouth, Campari, gin, orange

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Kada nije bio raspoložen za martini, Džejms Bond je pio negroni, čuveno piće koje je od ove godine zvanično i najprodavaniji klasični koktel na svijetu prema godišnjem izvještaju DrinksInternational. Njegov haštag na Instagramu ima skoro milion postova, a koliko je ovaj italijanski koktel popularan govori i to da već više od deceniju ima i svoju nedjelju u kalendaru - Negroniweek koja se tradicionalno održava u septembru u barovima širom svijeta. Negroni je prepoznatljiv po svom gorkom ukusu i jedinstvenoj crvenoj boji, i mada ima na desetine njegovih varijacija, originalno se pravi od samo tri sastojka (u istoj razmjeri) koji se ne miješaju, već slažu preko leda. Na kraju, koktel se ukrašava sa spiralno isječenom korom od narandže. Sastojci: slatki vermut, Campari, džin, narandža

PROMO

Dva pića jarkih boja, koja i vizuelno i ukusom donose asocijacije na vedrinu i toplinu ljeta, nezaobilazan su dio doživljaja Italije - bilo da je posjećujemo kao turisti, bilo da izvan te zemlje uživamo u njenom

udjelu u hedonističkoj baštini čovječanstva. Aperol i Campari danas se nalaze u šankovima većine barova na planeti, a njihove arome plemenite gorčine obogaćuju stotine koktela.

› Aperol, nastao 1919. godine u radionici Luiđija i Silvija Barbijerija, "nježniji" je od ova dva bratska aperitiva. Osvaja prelijepom narandžastom nijansom, blagim dodirom alkohola - svega 11% - i kompleksnom aromom u kojoj se spajaju pomorandža, tajna mješavina biljnih nota, vanila i diskretna gorčina. Aperol Spritz je jedan od simbola savremene Italije, jednostavan koktel koji se pravi širom planete. Postoje razne verzije ovog pića, ali originalni recept, jedini koji je odobrila Italijanska asocijacija barmena, zahtijeva da se u pravljenju Aperol Spritz-a koristi autentično proseko vino. U čašu za bijelo vino, napunjenu ledom, sipati 0.9dl vina Prosecco DOC i potom dodati 0.6dl Aperola. Sipati 0.3dl soda vode. Ukrasiti kriškom pomorandže.

›

CAMPARI - GORCINA KOJA OSVAJA Kada je Gaspare Kampari 1860. stvorio recept za Campari aperitiv, vjerovatno nije ni slutio da će ovo piće prelijepe crvene boje steći globalnu slavu. Ugodna gorčina, herbalne i citrusne note - i u ovom aperitivu dominira pomorandža - i ukus koji dugo ostaje u ustima danas su osnova mnogih koktela, a samo ime Campari jedan je od najprepoznatljivijih brendova na svijetu.vates and intrigues. Sbagliato - izgovara se "sbaljato" - zvuči, pomalo, kao naša riječ "zbrljano", a koktel je tako i nastao, kada je, još prije pola vijeka, milanski barmen Mirko Stoketo napravio početničku grešku tokom spremanja Negroni koktela. Umjesto džina, u čašu je, zajedno sa vermutom i Campari likerom, sipao pjenušavo vino. Koktel je, zajedno sa pjenušavim vinima, sada popularniji nego ikada. U čašu za miksovanje sipati led i pomiješati 0.3dl Campari likera i 0.3dl vermuta. Uliti u klasičnu "tambler" čašu ispunjenu ledom i nježno sipati pjenušavo suvo vino, bijelo ili roze. Ukrasiti uvijenom korom pomorandže.

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PROMO

Two brightly colored drinks, which visually and tastefully bring associations to the serenity and warmth of summer, are an unavoidable part of Italian experience - regardless of whether we visit Italy as tourists or enjoy its contribution to hedonistic heritage

of humanity somewhere outside the country. Aperol and Campari are found in most bars on the planet nowadays and their aromas of noble bitterness enrich hundreds of cocktails.

Aperol, created in 1919 in the workshop of Luigi and Silvio Barbieri, is a "gentler" peer among these two fraternal aperitifs. It captivates with its beautiful orange shade, a mild touch of alcohol - only 11% - and complex aroma in which orange, a secret mixture of herbs, vanilla and discreet bitterness combine. Aperol Spritz is one of the symbols of modern Italy, a simple cocktail that is made all over the planet. There are various versions of this drink, but the original recipe, the only one approved by the Italian Bartenders Association, requires that an authentic Prosecco wine be used in making Aperol Spritz. In a white wine glass filled with ice, pour 0.9dl of Prosecco DOC wine and then add 0.6dl of Aperol. Pour 0.3dl of soda water. Garnish with a slice of orange.

When Gaspare Campari created the recipe for Campari aperitif in 1860, he probably had no idea that this beautiful red drink would gain global fame. Pleasant bitterness, herbal and citrus notes - orange dominates in this aperitif as well - and the taste that lingers in the mouth for a long time are the basis of numerous cocktails nowadays, but the name Campari is one of the most recognizable brands in the world. Sbagliato - pronounced "sbalyato" - sounds, a bit, like our word "messed up", and the cocktail was created that way, when, half a century ago, Milanese bartender Mirko

Stoccheto made a beginner's mistake while preparing Negroni cocktail. Instead of gin, he poured sparkling wine into a glass, together with vermouth and Campari liqueur. The cocktail, along with the sparkling wines, is now more popular than ever. Pour ice into a mixing glass and mix 0.3dl of Campari liqueur and 0.3dl of vermouth. Pour into a classic "tumbler" glass filled with ice and gently pour sparkling dry wine, either white or rosé. Garnish with twisted orange peel.

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VELIKI ŠEFOVI

Portret: Ana Roš, Hiša Franko, Slovenija

Ana Roš je najpoznatija i najznačajnija kuvarica Slovenije i nekadašnja najbolja žena kuvar na svijetu prema izboru The World's 50 Best Restaurants. U pripremi jela isključivo koristi sastojke koji su nastali u krugu od jednog kilometra od restorana, a taj princip joj je i donio slavu i pretvorio nekada mali restoran, Hišu Franko, u ozbiljnu gastronomsku destinaciju.

FOTO: SUZAN GABRIJAN I BENJAMIN SCHMUCK Vino & Fino

VELIKI ŠEFOVI

U svijet gastronomije uplovila je bez formalnog obrazovanja, a kada je počinjala da se bavi kuvanjem jedino što je umjela da napravi bila je pasta. Dvadeset godina kasnije stekla je status svjetski poznate šefice. Njen restoran Hiša Franko nalazi se u dolini Soče, u Kobaridu, malom, idiličnom mjestu na granici Slovenije i Italije i ovjenčan je sa dvije Mišlenove zvjezdice. Ana Roš tečno govori pet jezika, ima diplomu iz međunarodnih odnosa, i iza sebe profesionalnu karijeru skijašice u bivšoj Jugoslaviji. Prije dvije godine, za vrijeme

pandemije, objavila je i svoju prvu knjigu Sun and Rain, nešto između monografije i kuvara koja je opčinila gastro svijet, a sljedeće godine, u Hrvatskoj, tačnije u Istri, u Savudriji otvoriće novi restoran u sklopu luksuznog hotelskog kompleksa Petram Residence & Resorts iza koga je poznata srpska grupacija MK. Za razliku od Hiše Franko, to će biti opušteniji restoran, namijenjen ljudima na odmoru i bez puno slijedova na koje smo navikli od ove talentovane, samouke šefice.

Vino & Fino

VELIKI ŠEFOVI

Njena jela su kompleksna, sezonska, prepoznatljiva po kombinaciji neobičnih začina, boja i intenzivnih ukusa i sa perfektnim tehnikama u kuvanju pripremljena, a njeni jelovnici pravi su odraz datog godišnjeg doba. Anin svaki obrok počinje hlebom koji se može napraviti, u njenom slučaju, čak i od fermentisane kore jabuke i dobrog, lokalnog, putera. - Danas je moj pristup kuvanju tehnički, skoro naučni, ali ipak omogućava sastojcima da se razviju ili sačuvaju, svoj jaki, originalni ukus - objasnila je za Fine Dining Lovers Ana Roš. Srca gastronomskog svijeta osvojila je raviolima od karfiola sa jarećom džigericom u bujonu sa crnim tartufima. Međutim, kada nije u ulozi profesionalnog kuvara, Ana sprema brza jela koja su laka za pripremu, a koja uz dodatak mašte, postanu pravi delikates. - Samo pravi prijatelji znaju šta je potrebno da momentalno postane najsrećnija osoba na svetu -to je pica. Naravno, mora da bude savršena, i da bude „napuljska“, a nije lako napraviti perfektnu picu, zar ne? Dobra pica vrijedna je kao umjetničko djelo. Dobar pica majstor tačno zna kada je pravo vrijeme da stavi određeni sastojak, tačnu količinu začina, kako da napravi savršen sklad između paradajza i Bufalo mocarele…. Da, opsjednuta sam picom! Moram stalno da je jedem. – ispričala je Ana jednom u intervju za srpsko izdanje magazina Vino & Fino. Njen radni dan počinje u devet ujutru doručkom sa zaposlenima. Zatim slijedi, sjeckanje, čišćenje, kuvanje, obrada ribe, ubiranje potrebnih plodova iz bašte i pecanje ribe. Sve to se obavlja do 13 sati kada se pravi pauza za ručak, pa se nakon zajedničkog obroka zaposlenih, nastavlja sa finaliziranjem pripreme jela i to traje do 16 časova kada zaposleni imaju takozvanu ranu večeru. To je i vrijeme kada počinje servis koji traje do osam uveče, sa pauzom od pola sata kada kreće nova runda koja traje do ponoći. Radni dan završava se klopom i sumiranjem utisaka, čišćenjem restorana i odlaskom na spavanje oko jedan sat iza ponoći. Za odlazak u Hišu Franko rezervacija je neophodna, baš kao i za svaki restoran „sa zvijezdom“. Restoran ne radi ponedjeljkom i utorkom, a ukoliko je jedini razlog vašeg putovanja u dolinu Soče odlazak u Hišu Franko, tu možete i da prespavate jer se u okviru imanja nalazi i nekoliko soba. Ručak u restoranu koji podrazumijeva degustacioni meni od 23 slijeda, bez uparivanja sa pićem košta 225 eura, dok se za večeru, ove sezone, jedino možete prijaviti na listu čekanja. Nikad se ne zna, možda ćete baš vi imati sreće…

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GREAT CHEFS

Portrait: Ana Roš, Hiša Franko, Slovenia

Ana Roš is the most famous and most important chef in Slovenia and the former best female chef in the world according to The World's 50 Best Restaurants. For preparation of dishes, she exclusively uses ingredients that were produced within a radius of one kilometer from the restaurant, and this principle brought her fame and turned the once small restaurant, Hiša Franko, into a serious gastronomic destination.

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GREAT CHEFS

She entered the world of gastronomy without formal education and when she started cooking, the only thing she knew how to make was pasta. Twenty years later, she gained the status of a world-famous chef. Her restaurant Hiša Franko is located in the Soča Valley, in Kobarid, a small, idyllic place on the border between Slovenia and Italy, and is crowned with two Michelin stars. Ana Roš speaks five languages fluently, has a degree in international relations, and a professional career behind her as a skier in the former Yugoslavia. Two years ago, during the pandemic, she published her first book, Sun and Rain, something between a monograph and a cookbook that captivated the gastronomic world, and next year in Croatia, more precisely in Savudrija, Istria, she will open a new restaurant within the luxury resort Petram Residence & Resorts, founded by the wellknown Serbian MK Group. Unlike Hiša Franko, it will be a restaurant with more relaxed atmosphere, intended for people on vacation and without numerous courses that we got used to from this talented, self-taught chef.

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GREAT CHEFS

Her dishes are complex, seasonal, recognizable by the combination of unusual spices, colors and intense flavors and prepared with perfect cooking techniques, whilst her menus are an actual reflection of the given season. Each Ana's meal starts with bread that can be made, in her case, even from fermented apple peel and good, local, butter. "Today, my approach to cooking is technical, almost scientific, but it still allows the ingredients to develop or preserve their strong, original taste," Ana Roš explained to Fine Dining Lovers. She won the hearts of the gastronomic world with cauliflower ravioli with goat's liver in broth with black truffles. However, when she is not in the role of a professional chef, Ana prepares quick easy-to-make dishes which become a real delicacy with a touch of imagination.

Her working day starts at nine in the morning with breakfast together with her employees, followed by chopping, cleaning, cooking, fish processing, fruit picking in the garden and fishing. All this is done until 13:00 when they have a lunch break. After the joint meal with employees, she continues in order to finish preparation of the dishes. This lasts until 16:00 when employees have a so-called early dinner. This is also the moment when the service starts and it lasts until eight in the evening. After a half an hour break, the new round starts and it lasts until midnight. The working day ends with jotting down and summarizing impressions, cleaning the restaurant and going to bed around one hour after midnight.

- Only my true friends know what it takes to instantly become the happiest person in the world - it's pizza. Of course, it has to be perfect and it has to be Neapolitan. It's not easy to make a perfect pizza, right? A good pizza is as valuable as a work of art. A good pizzaiolo knows exactly when it's the right time to add a certain ingredient, the right amount of spices, how to make the perfect harmony between tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella... Yes, I'm obsessed with pizza! I have to eat it all the time. - Ana once told in an interview for the Serbian edition of Vino & Fino magazine.

Reservations are obligatory for dining at Hiša Franco, just like any other starred restaurant. The restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, and if the only reason for your trip to the Soča Valley is to go to Hiša Franko, you can also spend the night there as there are several rooms within the property. Lunch in the restaurant, which includes a tasting menu of 23 courses, without wine pairing costs 225 euros, while for dinner, this season, you can only sign up for the waiting list. You never know, you might get lucky...

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Vodič kroz maslinovo ulje

Šest sorti maslina apsolutno dominiraju svjetskim tržištem, a ukoliko pročitate ovaj tekst i dobro savladate njihove osnovne osobine, sa lakoćom ćete moći da odaberete maslinovo ulje koje odgovara vašim potrebama

Maslinovo ulje je kao vino. Pravi se tamo gdje i vino, degustira na isti način, a dobro maslinovo ulje, baš kao i dobro vino puno je suptilnih nota koje pomažu da se istaknu ukusi u hrani. Naravno,situacija može da bude i drugačija -od lošeg ulja hrana će biti masnija i ništa više od toga. Takođe, važno je znati da kvalitetni

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dodaci ulju mogu da budu razne začinske trave ili dobar biber, dok u nekvalitetne spadaju mnogi “prirodno identični” ukusi poput veoma popularnih aroma tartufa. E, od toga treba da bježite - od jeftinih ulja sa tartufima, jer ne sadrže ni mikrogram ovih plemenitih gljiva, već isključivo vještačke arome!

Gastronomski mit po kome je kuvanje sa ekstra djevičanskim uljem loše jer je “tačka dimljenja” tog ulja niska, što ga destabilizuje i stvara štetne supstance, u potpunosti je razbijen. Nakon dugih istraživanja, vrlo relevantnih u vrijeme kada svi, od kućnih šefova do Mišlenovih zvijezda, rade sa ovim uljem, dokazano je da je ekstra djevičansko ulje u potpunosti bezbjedno za sve operacije u kuhinji. Dr Sajmon Pul je 2018. na velikoj konferenciji o maslinovom ulju održanoj u Čikagu rekao:

– Istraživanja su nam dala neoborive i definitivne dokaze koji su protivni ovom mitu. Ona su pokazala da ekstra djevičansko ulje ne samo da je potpuno bezbjedno za upotrebu na visokim temperaturama, već i da je bolje od drugih tipova ulja. Stvaranje potencijalno štetnih trans masti se sa ovim uljem odvija u znatno manjoj mjeri u poređenju sa drugim uljima – rekao je, dodavši da je, recimo, ulje od koščice grožđa daleko nezdravije kada se izlaže visokim temperaturama.

Podjela maslinovih ulja potpuno je jasna i međunarodni propisi uglavnom onemogućavaju velike manipulacije kvalitetom. Ekstra djevičansko ulje je ono koje nema primjetnih mana u ukusu, visoko je cijenjeno i veoma bogato aromatičnim i hranljivim materijama. Ono ima najviše 0.8 grama oleinske kiseline na 100 grama proizvoda. Najbolja ulja na planeti spadaju upravo u ovu kategoriju, pa i trenutno jedno od najukusnijih ulja na svijetu, špansko maslinovo ulje Rincón de La Subbética DOP. Djevičansko maslinovo ulje ima slabo uočljive mane, a sadrži najviše 2 grama slobodnih masnih kiselina na 100 grama proizvoda. Dobija se na isti način kao i ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje, hladnim cijeđenjem plodova maslina koji su nešto niže klase nego kod ekstra djevičanskog (EVOO) ulja. Rafinisano ulje

dobija se neutralizacijom, dekolorisanjem i deodoracijom nejestivog djevičanskog ulja, i u ovom procesu gube se slobodne masne kiseline, ali i vitamini i polifenoli, što ga čini podesnim za svakodnevnu upotrebu ali bez nutricionističkih prednosti u odnosu na druga biljna ulja. Ispod svih ovih kategorija je ulje komine, koje se dobija rastvaranjem ostataka plodova nakon hladnog cijeđenja. Osnovno ulje komine nije samo po sebi jestivo i koristi se primarno u kozmetici, a miješanjem sa kvalitetnim uljem postaje podesno za trpezu.

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GASTRO BREVIJAR

U svijetu postoji devetnaest klasičnih sorti maslina od kojih se dobija visokokvalitetno ulje, a osobine ovih sorti uslovljene su lokalnim karakteristikama teroara. Ipak, šest sorti picual, coratina, koroneiki, arbequina, frantoio i leccino apsolutno dominiraju svjetskim tržištem. Sorta arbequina, osnovni kultivar od koga Španija, kao primarna velesila u svijetu maslinovog ulja dobija svoja vrlo aromatična ulja herbalnih aroma, dolazi sa sjeveroistočne obale Iberijskog poluostrva. Druga važna španska sorta je izrazito voćna: picual dolazi sa juga, iz Sevilje, Granade, Kordobe i Malage. Coratina uglavnom raste u okolini Barija u Italiji, sazrijeva vrlo pozno, i njeni jako gorki plodovi zahtijevaju puno rada da se pretvore u ukusno ulje. Koroneiki, praktično mitska sorta masline iz Grčke, vrlo je bogata polifenolima i ulje od njenih sitnih bobica, koje rastu na drveću izrazito pogodnom za masovnu a kvalitetnu proizvodnju, pravi je eliksir zdravlja. Čuvena toskanska maslinova ulja dobijaju se prije svega od sorti frantoio i leccino. Voćnost i snaga arome sorte frantoio izvanredno se uklapa uz nježniji profil sorte leccino, a kupaže ova dva ulja daju neodoljivo aromatična ulja sa notama voća.

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Sva ova ulja, i sve njihove lokalne podvarijante čine spektar ogromne globalne ponude koja odavno nije rezervisana samo za Evropu. Maslinovo ulje, naročito u posljednjih tridesetak godina zaista je postalo neizostavan sastojak u gotovo svakoj kuhinji na svijetu, pa čak i u onome što se u Italiji nekad zvalo cucina povera - kuhinja siromašnih.

GOURMET BREVIARY

Six varieties of olives absolutely dominate the world market, and if you read this text and master their basic characteristics, you will easily be able to choose the olive oil that suits your needs.

Olive oil is like wine. It is made where wine is, it's tasted the same way, and good olive oil, just like good wine, is full of subtle aromas that help bring out the flavors in food. Of course, the situation can be different - bad oil will make food fattier and nothing more. Also, it is important to know that high-quality additions to the oil can be various herbs

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or good pepper, while many "naturally identical" flavors such as the very popular truffle aromas fall into poor quality category. Well, this is what you should avoid cheap oils with truffles, because they do not contain even a microgram of these noble mushrooms, but only artificial aromas!

GOURMET BREVIARY

The division of olive oil is completely clear and international regulations generally prevent major quality manipulations. Extra virgin olive oil, which has no noticeable defects in taste, is highly valued and very rich in aromatic and nutritious substances. It contains a maximum of 0.8 grams of oleic acid per 100 grams of product. The best oils on the planet belong to this category, including currently one of the most flavorful oils in the world, the Spanish olive oil Rincón de La Subbética DOP. Virgin olive oil has barely noticeable defects and contains no more than 2 grams of free fatty acids per 100 grams of product. It is obtained in the same way as extra virgin olive oil, by cold-pressing olive fruits that are of a slightly lower class than extra virgin (EVOO) oil. Refined oil is obtained by neutralization, decolorization and deodorization of inedible virgin oil, and in this process free fatty acids get lost, but also vitamins and polyphenols, which makes it suitable for everyday use but without nutritional advantages compared to other vegetable oils. Under all these categories is pomace oil, which is obtained by dissolving olive fruit leftovers after cold pressing. The basic pomace oil is not edible by itself and is primarily used in cosmetics, but mixing it with high-quality oil turns it suitable for the dining table.

The gastronomic myth that cooking with extra virgin oil is bad because the "smoking point" of that oil is low, which destabilizes it and creates harmful substances, has been completely dispelled. After extensive research, very relevant at a time when everyone from home chefs to Michelin stars worked with this oil, it has been proven that extra virgin oil is completely safe for all operations in the kitchen. In 2018, at a major olive oil conference in Chicago, Dr. Simon Poole said: - Research has given us irrefutable and definite evidence against this myth. They have shown that extra virgin oil is not only completely safe for use at high temperatures, but is also superior to other types of oil. The creation of potentially harmful trans fats occurs with this oil to a much lesser extent compared to other oils - he said, adding that, for example, grape seed oil is far more unhealthy when exposed to high temperatures.

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GOURMET BREVIARY

In the world, there are nineteen classic varieties of olives from which high-quality oil is obtained, and the properties of these varieties are influenced by the local terroir features. However, six varieties: Picual, Coratina, Koroneiki, Arbequina, Frantoio and Leccino absolutely dominate the world market. Arbequina variety, the basic cultivar from which Spain, as the primary superpower in the world of olive oil, gets its very aromatic oils with herbal aromas, comes from the northeastern coast of the Iberian Peninsula. Another important Spanish variety is distinctly fruity: Picual comes from the south, from Seville, Granada, Córdoba and Málaga. Coratina grows mainly around Bari in Italy, ripens very late and its very bitter fruits require a lot of work to turn into a delicious oil. Koroneiki, a practically mythical variety of olives from Greece, is very rich in polyphenols and the oil from its small berries, which grow on trees particularly suitable for mass yet quality production, is a real elixir of health. The famous Tuscan olive oils are obtained primarily from Frantoio and Leccino varieties. Fruitiness and intensity of the aromas of Frantoio variety match perfectly with the gentler profile of Leccino variety. Blending of these two oils produces irresistibly aromatic oils with fruity notes.

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All these oils and all their local subvariants make up the spectrum of a huge global offer that has no longer been confined exclusively to Europe. Olive oil, especially in the last thirty years, has really become an indispensable ingredient in almost every kitchen in the world, including what was once called cucina povera in Italy - the kitchen of the poor.

PODRUMSKE PRIČE / CELLAR TALES

Probati makar i gutljaj nekog od vina iz ovog teksta ogromna je privilegija, do koje se dolazi ili novcem i vezama u svijetu moćnih i bogatih, ili mukotrpnim radom u vinskom svijetu. Ovo nisu samo vina – ona su spomenici zemljama i teroarima u kojima su nastala, i ujedno novčane investicije bez premca, jer vrhunskim vinima cijene rastu postojano i dugo.

To taste even a sip of one of the wines mentioned below is a huge privilege, which can be achieved either by means of money and connections in the world of the powerful and rich, or by working diligently in the wine world. These are not just wines - they are monuments to the countries and terroirs from where they originate and at the same time unparalleled financial investments, because the prices of top quality wines rise steadily and continuously.

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PODRUMSKE PRIČE / CELLAR TALES

Ime Petrus zrači eksluzivnošću, a jedan od razloga za izuzetno visoku cijenu je i činjenica da dolazi sa veoma malog imanja. Vinogradi Chateau Petrus prostiru se na svega 12 hektara u maloj bordovskoj apelaciji Pomerol, smještenoj na desnoj obali rijeke Dordonje. Svaka bobica koja uđe u ovo vino prošla je rigorozan postupak uzgoja i selekcije, sve do dobijanja savršene osnove od čistog merloa. Nakon “magije” u podrumu i dužeg odležavanja. ovaj legendarni merlo spreman je za ocjene kritičara, za služenje na trpezama imućnih i uticajnih ljudi, pa i za put u svemir, kao u slučaju 12 boca koje su 2020. i 2021. provele više od godinu dana u orbiti, radi istraživanja o uticaju bestežinskog stanja na vino. Možda najbolji opis Petrusa dao je čuveni kritičar Mark Skvajers, koji ga je opisao kao “čudesni merlo mekanih i somotastih tanina, sa karakterom crnog voća, crnih maslina, tamne čokolade i zemlje”. Petrus se može kupiti i na našim prostorima – u jednoj velikoj vinoteci u Beogradu boca Petrusa iz 2015. godine košta oko 8.500 evra.

The name Petrus evokes exclusivity and one of the reasons for the extremely high price is the fact that the wine comes from a very small estate. Chateau Petrus vineyards cover only 12 hectares in a small Bordeaux appellation of Pomerol, nestled on the right bank of the Dordogne. Every berry that goes into this wine has gone through a rigorous process of cultivation and selection, until obtaining the perfect basis for 100% Merlot wine. After "magic" in the cellar and longer aging, this legendary Merlot is ready for critics' ratings and for serving on the dining tables of wealthy and influential people, and even for a trip to space, since 12 bottles of Petrus spent more than a year in Earth's orbit in 2020 and 2021 for research on the impact of weightlessness on wine. Perhaps the best description of Petrus was given by the famous critic Mark Squires, who described it as "a wonderful Merlot with soft and velvety tannins, full of character, black berries, black olives, dark chocolate and earthy flavor". Petrus can also be purchased in our region - a large wine shop in Belgrade sells a bottle of Petrus from vintage 2015 at about 8,500 euros.

Vino & Fino

PODRUMSKE PRIČE / CELLAR TALES

Mađarska vinarija Royal Tokayi predstavila je 2019. vino Essencia 2008, uz reklamnu poruku da je posrijedi “najskuplje vino na svijetu”. Iako je pomalo teško izračunati koje vino je zapravo, u nekom određenom trenutku, najskuplje na svijetu – kolekcionarska često vrijede mnogo više, a cijene vina u slobodnoj prodaji značajno osciliraju – ovo vino, koje košta 35.000 evra za magnum bocu, svakako je među najskupljima. Vino, kao i sva ostala koja nose naziv Essencia, napravljeno je od botritizovanih bobica aszu grožđa, bez razrjeđenja drugim vinima. Izuzetno slatke bobice fermentiraju i do osam godina, a na kraju procesa dobija se vino nezemaljske arome, jako koncentrovanog ukusa i vrlo malog sadržaja alkohola – od dva do četiri procenta. Svako vino sa nazivom Essencia je rijetko i veoma skupo, a ova etiketa nadmašila je apsolutno sve rekorde. Napravljena je u samo osamnaest veličanstveno dizajniranih, unikatnih boca. Tvorci vina kažu da će vino biti odlično za piće najmanje do 2300. godine, a Robert Parker je rekao da ovakva vina mogu da sazrijevaju i do 1.000 godina!

The Hungarian Royal Tokayi winery presented the Essencia 2008 wine in 2019, with the advertising message that it is "the most expensive wine in the world". Although it is somewhat difficult to calculate which wine is actually, at any given moment, the most expensive wine in the world - collectors' items are often worth much more, and the prices of over-the-counter wines fluctuate significantly - this wine, which costs 35,000 euros for a magnum bottle, is certainly among the most expensive ones. The wine, like all the others bearing the name Essencia, is made from botrytized aszu grape berries, without dilution with other wines. Extremely sweet berries ferment for up to eight years, and at the end of the process, a wine with heavenly aromas, a highly concentrated flavor profile and a very low alcohol content - from two to four percent, is obtained. Any wine with the name Essencia is rare and very expensive, and this label has broken absolutely all records. It is made in only eighteen magnificently designed, unique bottles. The winemakers say that the wine will be great to drink until at least the year 2300, whilst Robert Parker said that these wines could age for up to 1,000 years!

Vino & Fino

PODRUMSKE PRIČE / CELLAR TALES

Kažu da onaj ko jednom proba bilo koju berbu vina Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese neće više imati nikakav problem da zapamti ovo maratonsko ime: iskustvo degustacije najboljeg njemačkog rizlinga, i jednog od najboljih vina na svijetu, pamti se do posljednjeg detalja. Njemački perfekcionizam, izuzetan teroar koji, po riječima aktuelnog vlasnika vinarija, Egona Milera IV, od 1987. godine nije dao lošu berbu, i pogodni uslovi za razvoj botritisa ujedinili su se u ovom slatkom vinu moćne arome koje se smatra konačnim predikatnim izrazom rizlinga. Vino sazrijeva u buradima od 1.000 litara koja su karakteristična za tradiciju mozelske regije, a za fermentaciju se, kada je god to moguće, koristi isključivo lokalni kvasac. Ogromno aromatsko bogatstvo ovog vina jednim dijelom počiva i na znalački uspostavljenoj ravnoteži između zaostalog šećera, i prirodno visokih kiselina. Jedna boca ovog vina košta između 15.000 i 30.000 evra, a većina berbi ovog moćnog i dugovječnog vina smatraju se odličnom investicijom.

It is said that whoever has once tasted any vintage of Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese will have no problem remembering this king-sized name: the experience of tasting the best German Riesling and one of the best wines in the world is remembered down to the last detail. German perfectionism, exceptional terroir which, according to the current owner of the winery, Egon Müller IV, has not produced a bad vintage since 1987 and favorable conditions for development of botrytis have united in this sweet wine with a powerful aroma, which is considered the ultimate predicate expression of Riesling. The wine matures in 1,000-liter barrels, which are characteristic of the tradition of the Mosel region, and whenever possible, only natural yeast is used for fermentation. The enormous aromatic wealth of this wine rests partly on the expertly established balance between residual sugar and naturally high acidity. One bottle of this wine costs between 15,000 and 30,000 euros and most vintages of this powerful and long-lived wine are considered an excellent investment.

Vino & Fino

PODRUMSKE PRIČE / CELLAR TALES

Vino Screaming Eagle, bez konkurencije najpoznatije i najskuplje vino iz Sjedinjenih Američkih Država, jasno svjedoči o dvije činjenice: da su Kalifornija i dolina Napa tokom proteklih pola vijeka izrasli u područje koje daje neka od najboljih vina na planeti, i o snazi kritičarskog pečata Roberta Parkera. Parker je 1995. ovom mitskom kaberne sovinjonu podario 99 poena, i vijest da je vino u prvoj komercijalno dostupnoj berbi (u pitanju je 1992. godina) počastvovano na ovaj način odjeknula je kao grom, zajedno sa konstatacijom Parkera da je posrijedi “savršeno vino”. Ono je zaista sasvim po Parkerovom ukusu – moćno, koncentrisano vino veoma duge završnice i snažnih voćnih aroma, jedinstveni izraz teroara doline Napa i simbol američkog vinskog buma. Vinarija Screaming Eagle nastala je ne tako davne 1986. godine u Oukvilu u dolini Napa, a njeni vinogradi prostiru se na oko 20 hektara na kojima se gaje kaberne sovinjon, kaberne fran i merlo, uz mali dodatak sovinjon blana. Cijena jedne boce ovog vina danas iznosi oko 3.000 dolara – ukoliko uspijete da ga pronađete na tržištu, jer je lista čekanja u samoj vinariji toliko duga da se na vino čeka i do 12 godina. Jedna šestolitarska boca vina Screaming Eagle 2005. svojevremeno je prodata za pola miliona dolara, postavivši svjetski rekord koji je 2018. godine oborilo posljednje vino na našoj listi.

Screaming Eagle wine, peerlessly the most famous and most expensive wine from the United States of America, clearly testifies to two facts: that California and the Napa Valley during the past half century have grown into a region that produces some of the best wines on the planet, and to the strength of Robert Parker's critical stamp. In 1995, Parker gave this mythical Cabernet Sauvignon 99 points, and the news that the wine in the first commercially available vintage (1992) was honored in this way echoed like thunder, along with Parker's statement that it was a "perfect wine". It really is just to Parker's taste - a powerful, concentrated wine with a very long finish and strong fruity aromas, a unique expression of Napa Valley terroir and a symbol of the American wine boom. Screaming Eagle Winery was founded not so long ago in 1986 in Oakville, Napa Valley, and its vineyards cover about 20 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with a small addition of Sauvignon Blanc. The price of one bottle of this wine today is about 3,000 dollars - if you manage to find it on the market, because the waiting list in the winery itself is so long that the wait for the wine can be up to 12 years. A six-liter bottle of Screaming Eagle 2005 once sold for half a million dollars, setting a world record that was broken in 2018 by the last wine on our list.

Vino & Fino

PODRUMSKE PRIČE / CELLAR TALES

Na aukciji u njujorškom ogranku kuće Sotbi, prije četiri godine je jedna boca vina Romanee-Conti 1945 prodata za nevjerovatnih 558.000 dolara. Najbolja berba jednog od najboljih vina na svijetu tako je ponovo stavljena u fokus vinske javnosti, a vinski novinari i pisci koji su imali priliku da probaju neku berbu ovog pino noara takmičili su se u tome ko će odabrati bolje riječi u opisivanju vina koje se sa razlogom smatra konačnim izrazom sorte – elegantnog, sofisticiranog, magičnog vina bogatih voćnih aroma i izrazite mineralnosti. Najrjeđe, najskuplje, i često najbolje vino na svijetu. Ukoliko uspijete da dođete do njega moraćete da platite 5.000 funti za mlade etikete, a dva ili tri puta više za starije berbe. Ovo je najčistiji, najaristokratskiji i najintenzivniji izraz pino noara koji se uopšte može zamisliti. Ovo vino nije samo nektar bogova – ono je i aršin kojim se mjere sva ostala vina iz Burgundije – napisao je vinski kritičar Klajv Kouts. Kuća Domaine de la Romanee-Conti ima takav status u Francuskoj, a naročito u Burgundiji, da je često nazivaju samo DRC, ili čak samo “Domaine”. Istorijski korijeni vinarije sežu čak do 13. veka, a njen status kao dragulja Burgundije i cijele Francuske bio je priznat i u 18. veku, kada su se oko nje vodile prave bitke među aristokratama, među kojima su bili i ljubavnica Luja XV madam Pompadur, i kraljev rođak, princ de Konti, koji je uspio da svoje prezime trajno ugradi u identitet vinarije. Pino noar se u vinogradima ove kuće gaji na samo 1.77 hektara. Od tog grožđa se, u zavisnosti od berbe, proizvede između 3.500 i 5.600 boca vina.

Four years ago, at an auction in the New York branch of Sotheby's, a bottle of Romanée -Conti 1945 wine was sold for an incredible $558,000. The best vintage of one of the best wines in the world was once again put in the focus of the wine public, and wine journalists and writers who had the opportunity to taste a vintage of this Pinot Noir competed in who would choose the best words to describe the wine. For a reason, it was considered the ultimate expression of the variety - an elegant, sophisticated, magical wine with rich fruity aromas and pronounced minerality. The rarest, most expensive and often the best wine in the world. If you manage to get your hands on it, you'll have to pay £5,000 for young labels, and two or three times that price for older vintages. This is the purest, most aristocratic and most intense expression of Pinot Noir imaginable. This wine is not only the nectar of the gods - it is also the benchmark to compare all other wines from Burgundy - wine critic Clive Coates wrote. The winery Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has such a status in France and particularly in Burgundy, that it is often called just DRC, or even just "Domaine". The historical roots of the winery go back to the 13th century, and its status as a jewel of Burgundy and the whole of France was recognized in the 18th century, when real battles were fought over it among aristocrats, among whom were the mistress of Louis XV, Madame Pompadour, and the king's cousin, Prince de Conti, who managed to permanently incorporate his surname into the winery's identity. Pinot noir is grown in the vineyards of this winery on only 1.77 hectares. From those grapes, depending on the harvest, between 3,500 and 5,600 bottles of wine are produced.

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