Where to eat
where to eat
bars & clubs
directory & shopping
If you’re thinking of visiting Druskininkai strictly for the fine dining, think again. Although the few options available are perfectly adequate, there’s no real international food to be had outside of a few hotels, of which we recommend the restaurants inside the Europa Royale and Regina. From Armenian to pizza to Soviet slop however, the pots and pans of Druskininkai and its immediate surroundings bubble away day and night, wishing only to keep you fed and happy. Druskininkai’s that sort of town, and if you haven’t had Armenian food before, you may well be very pleasantly surprised indeed.
A small spa town in Eastern Europe is hardly going to provide the sort of nightlife worthy of a double page spread in a sparkling CondÊ Nast publication, but for a place the size of Druskininkai, the things to do after sunset are better than ever and improving all the time. Featuring everything from lurid bars full of tipsy locals to one or two surprisingly modern clubs, Druskininkai may not be able to promise happiness or the mother of all pub crawls, but that’s not really why it’s there in the first place.
Armenian
Bars Salt Blues B-2, Vilniaus 7, tel. +370 313 422 21. A large, semi-circular conser-
ArmÄ—niĹĄka El & El UĹžeiga GrĹŤtas, tel. +370 685 666 00, www.armeni-
vatory without the foliage is what you’ll find inside the Europa Royale’s in-house bar. About as action-packed as the Sahara most of the time, a sudden influx of guests sees it transformed, especially during the summer when the outside seating’s available, into a lively, chattering den. The draught Guinness is superb, and among the cheapest in the country. QOpen 11:00-24:00. PBALSW
skauzeigael-el.lt. Close to the corner of the turn off for Grōto Parkas and only really worth visiting if you happen to be driving past or waiting for a bus into town across the road. Your best option here is to avoid everything that isn’t ťaťlykai (skewered kebabs), marinaded to perfection and cooked on a wood fire in the traditional Armenian manner. QOpen 09:00-22:00. ABSW
Lithuanian There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and is perhaps best described as a restaurant or cafÊ serving predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites in an atmosphere you won’t find anywhere other than in Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the good restaurant owners of Druskininkai and call the former of the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list both types of restaurant together.
BebenÄ?iukas C-3, M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 83, tel. +370 313 535 14. Located
in the basement of a Soviet-era housing block, don’t expect wine waiters in bow ties or for that matter a menu written in English. For those who don’t mind mucking in with the locals, rewards come aplenty, including an a-to-z of delicious if unambitious Lithuanian lunchtime favourites on the menu, all of them for unbelievable, seemingly giveaway prices. QOpen 10:00-20:00.
CafĂŠs The ubiquitous Lithuanian cafĂŠ (kavinÄ—) can be anything from an instantly recognisable place to drink espresso to a rowdy bar full of drunks.
Mona Liza B-2, Kudirkos 37, tel. +370 698 353 64. It appears almost
impossible to open a cafÊ in Druskininkai without building a hotel upstairs these days, Mona Liza being the latest example. Inside the town’s old post office building and diagonally opposite the lake, Vienna it isn’t, but don’t let that put you off. As the name implies, da Vinci’s enigmatic masterpiece is the main draw here, including a series of amusingly created if somewhat crude incarnations built into the light fittings in the ceiling. QOpen 10:00 -22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-23:00. TASW
PepÄ—s Ledai A-2, Vilniaus 13 (DruskininkĹł Vandens Parkas), tel.
+370 616 058 80. Green and pink plastic furniture to compliment the ice cream, plus coffee, soft drinks, wine and a small selection of spirits. A conveniently located cafĂŠ to help put the fat back on your bones. Also a useful, temporary diversion for children. Q Open 13:00-21:00, Fri 13:00-22:00, Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-21:00. S
RĹŤta C-3, M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 97, tel. +370 313 477 77. A somewhat pedestrian hotel cafĂŠ, this one plonked a fair distance from the action. Alongside a menu of cafĂŠ-style beverages including an average cup of coffee are a collection of local hot dishes for a good price. Find the entrance hidden away in an alcove to the right. QOpen 08:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-23:00.ABSW
Ĺ irdelÄ— A-2, Maironio 16, tel. +370 313 590 93. Close to the DruskininkĹł
Vandens Parkas this wooden cafÊ-restaurant also functions as a bar during the evenings. Decorated in a wooden and slightly austere manner, it attracts a lot of locals who appreciate the cheap beer and large portions of local food. A small terrace out the front makes an appearance every summer. Meaning Little Heart, it’s part of the nearby Dainava centre, which specialises in heart treatment. QOpen 11:00-23:30, Mon 11:00-22:00. ABW
ÄŒiurlionis
Forto Dvaras B-2, M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 55, tel. +370 313 554 38. Priding them-
selves on churning out traditional Lithuanian cuisine using local ingredients, this ever-expanding national chain’s Druskininkai operation can be found overlooking the lake, just next to the Druskininkai Museum. The interior is folksy without going to Disneyland proportions and the food is generally excellent and filling. QOpen 11:00-22:00, Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. TBAUS
Senasis Nemunas B-2, Fonbergo 7, tel. +370 313 420 79. Slightly hidden
away but worth the minor safari required to locate it, latter-day Livingstones will be rewarded with sturdy wooden tables suitable for groups of diners and an intriguing house dish of turkey and pork. Geared almost exclusively towards the locals, menus have thankfully been provided to make up for the staff’s lack of English.QOpen 10:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-23:00. TBAUSW
Vido MalĹŤnas VeisiejĹł 4, tel. +370 313 523 56. Inside a converted water
mill on the RatnyÄ?ia at the far southeastern end of town, Vidas’ Mill is especially worth a visit during the summer when you can sit outside on the pleasant terrace. The food ranges from classic grilled meat dishes to the great big ostentatious affairs that the Lithuanians and Poles do so well. One of the best places in town for meeting members of the local community. QOpen 10:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -24:00. ABSW
Pizza ÄŒili Pica A-2, Vilniaus 13 (DruskininkĹł Vandens Parkas), tel. +370
313 531 53. Vast and joined together with little glass bridges over pools full of goldfish, Lithuania’s favourite pizza chain stokes the stomachs of Druskininkai’s diners with a tempting array of pizza including several options for vegetarians plus a fur ther foray into the non-pizza world courtesy of a battalion of pasta and meat dishes. If you prefer a more intimate pizza experience, it’s only a few minutes walk to Sicilia. QOpen 10:00-24:00. PTASW
Sicilia B-2, Taikos 9, tel. +370 313 518 65. After a tough day relaxing and
generally doing nothing, plonk yourself down at a large beech table and choose from one of some 60 savoury and a couple of sweet pizzas, cooked in minutes and served with a smile. Sicilia also serves a fine range of salads and some decent potato pancakes. If you’re dragging somebody small around town, there’s a diminutive yet thoughtful children’s menu too. Also at (B-3) M. K. Čiurlionio 56.QOpen 10:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00. PTASW
Soviet Grōto Parko Kavinė Grōtas, tel. +370 313 479 14. A country-style restaurant full of stuffed animals and photographs of the sculpture park’s Great Leader catching big fish on the walls, among the local dishes on offer find a small menu of classic Soviet-era snacks including sprats with a glass of vodka, borsch and greasy meat cutlets.QOpen 09:00-22:00. TAUS
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what to see
SaulÄ—grÄ…Ĺža B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. +370 313 523 18. In the heart of the ac-
tion yet refusing to bow to tasteless tourist principles, The Sunflower’s cafÊ-bar credentials make it worth a peep inside any time of night or day. The gloomy wooden interior hides an interesting mix of colourful locals, and, best of all, the room to the left comes with two pool tables and another for Russian billiards. QOpen 10:00-20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00. Open in summer 08:00-24:00.A
Clubs Amber A-2, Vilniaus 13 (DruskininkĹł Vandens Parkas), tel. +370 313 591 95. Somewhat awkwardly hidden away at the bottom of a flight of concrete steps that lead to an underground car park, Amber caters predominantly to the Eastern European holiday crowd. Accordingly, the place is awash with mirror balls and areas with large sofas on which to sit and show off your bling. The music policy, which features both Lithuanian DJs and some live music, is 100% bland European pop. QOpen 22:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00-04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance 15-50Lt.PE
Dangaus Skliautas B-3, Kurorto 8, tel. +370 313 518 19. Located immediately behind the lacklustre restaurant of the same name, this now legendary Druskininkai night club on two levels panders almost exclusively to local boys and girls in their late teens. Expect DJs and live bands battering the brains of the town’s cashiers and construction workers with an insipid blend of colourless pap. QOpen Fri, Sat 21:00-03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance 15-50Lt. PAIS Kolonada B-2, Kudirkos 22, tel. +370 313 512 22, www.kolonada.lt. A
couple of sofas, a pot-bellied stove and a few chairs and tables to the right of the entrance provide the setting for the town’s one and only live jazz venue. Essentially an oversized musical greenhouse with a waitress, the music comes in all flavours, unlike the beer which at the time of writing consisted of Horn on tap and a few cans of Guinness. The admission price is absurdly expensive, a fact only just eclipsed in its silliness by the policy of allowing everybody sitting to the left of the entrance to watch the show without paying. However, we must applaud it for being the only cultural venue in town to appeal to the over-16s.QOpen 11:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00-04:00. Entrance for concerts 20-40Lt. Free entrance to the bar. PBAUIESW
Wine Lithuania’s going wine crazy at the moment, with places to quaff the stuff springing up in all major cities. Druskininkai is yet to fully catch up, with the exception of the following establishment.
Kurorto VyninÄ— B-2, Vilniaus 8-4, tel. +370 313 523 85, www.kurortovy-
nine.lt. Little more than a decent shop selling a large amount of quality wine as is the current trend in Lithuania, there’s a space to sit and drink the stuff here, although it hardly qualifies as a bar. Handy for picking up a bottle for people looking for a night in back at their hotel who’d prefer not to pay hotel wine prices. QOpen 11:00-19:00, Fri 11:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. W
Adult entertainment Gentleman’s Club A-2, Vilniaus 13 (Druskininkų Vandens Parkas), tel. +370 699 990 33. Inside the Amber nightclub (see above), room for 20 men and/or women to enjoy the pleasures of male and female erotic dancers throughout the night. Q Open by appointment only.
what to see
Š Nacionalins M. K. Čiurlionio Muziejus
Lithuania’s greatest artist and composer was a Polish-speaking man by the name of Mikalojus Konstantinas ÄŒiurlionis. Born in the nearby town of VarÄ—na, ÄŒiurlionis (1875-1911) spent his childhood in Druskininkai and the town remains the spiritual home of the much loved man. An immensely prolific artist, ÄŒiurlionis wrote extensively for the piano, composed string quartets, and also penned the country’s first symphony, MiĹĄke (In The Forest). His musical style shifted between the pastoral and romantic to occasional dabblings in serialism. A busy painter too, ÄŒiurlionis was one of the primary organisers of the country’s first exhibition of Lithuanian art in Vilnius in 1907. He served as a conductor, was deeply involved in the Lithuanian independence movement, married the writer Sofija KymantaitÄ—, dabbled in photography and even found time to design stained glass. Such a hectic life for a man renowned for his profound shyness was bound to take its toll. Repeating attacks of depression saw him finally retiring to a nursing home near Warsaw where he died of pneumonia at just 35. ÄŒiurlionis left one daughter, whom although almost a year old when he died, he never saw. Several of his descendents still live in Druskininkai.
Čiurlionis Memorial Museum (Čiurlionio Memorialinis Muziejus) B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio 35, tel. +370 313 511 31. Possibly of more interest to anyone who ever fancied a look inside a traditional Lithuanian wooden house, this small museum of four individual timber buildings can be found at the site of Čiurlionis’ home from 1890 to 1910 in the street that now bears his name. The museum’s contents include recreations of the living conditions of the time, reproductions of Čiurlionis’ works and a small gallery for temporary exhibitions. The first house, which also doubles as the ticket office, sells a range of postcards, posters and CDs of the man’s work. In the summer the museum boasts bizarre weekend piano concerts, during which a pianist plays through an open window to an audience sat outside in the garden.QOpen 11:00-17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 4Lt, students, children 2Lt.
ÄŒiurlionis Monument B-2. Almost Cubist in its appearance and unveiled in
1975, a three-metre likeness of ÄŒiurlionis can be found lurking at the far northern end of Kudirkos and on the cover of this guide. Cast in bronze, the monument is the work of the Lithuanian sculptor Vladas VildĹžiĹŤnas (b. 1932).
Vaida GudynaitÄ—
DNB Nord M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 50, tel. 1608. QOpen 08:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SEB Bankas V. Kudirkos 37, tel. +370 313 605 52. QOpen 08:00-17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Snoras Vilniaus 13, tel. +370 313 519 30. QOpen 09:00-18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-15:00. Swedbank M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 107 (IKI), tel. 1884. QOpen 08:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun.
Books etc. Vaga M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 75, tel. +370 313 515 25. QOpen 09:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun.
Dentists J. MelniÄ?enko Stomatologijos Kabinetas M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 84-2, tel. +370
313 518 96. We’ve not managed to find an English-speaking dentist in Druskininkai, but this nice person tells us all are welcome so long as they can bring an interpreter. For a list of English-speaking dentists in Lithuania, see our Vilnius guide. QOpen 09:00-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Check-up free of charge. Fillings 50Lt.
Flowers & Plants Passiflora Ateities 7, tel. +370 313 457 34. QOpen 07:00-21:00, Sun 08:00-17:00.
Gifts & Souvenirs Inkliuzija Vilniaus 10a, tel. +370 313 560 68. Amber, gold and silver jewellery. QOpen 10:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-17:00. SidabrinÄ— KamÄ—ja Vilniaus 13, tel. +370 313 580 96. Also at M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 63b, M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 50. Gold and silver jewellery. Lithuanian souvenirs. QOpen 10:00-19:00. Sofa Vilniaus 10, tel. +370 313 510 34. Miscellaneous Lithuanian artworks, paintings, ceramics etc. QOpen 08:00-17:00, Sat 11:00-17:00. Closed Sun.
Hospitals DruskininkĹł LigoninÄ— (Druskininkai Hospital) Sveikatos 30, tel. +370 313 591 30.
Insurance Lietuvos Draudimas M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 107, tel. +370 313 512 45. QOpen 08:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun.
Soviet Soldiers’ Cemetery (SovietĹł KariĹł Kapai) C-2. The Soviet regime replaced the Nazi regime in Druskininkai with the capturing of the town by Red Army soldiers on July 14, 1944. As in many other Eastern European towns, the ‘liberation’ was commemorated with the opening of a cemetery to honour Stalin’s fallen troops. Druskininkai’s Soviet Cemetery moved twice before being finally settled in this lakeside spot southwest of the bus station in 1962, having previously been relocated from more sensitive parts of the town including near to the Catholic church. At the northern end of the cemetery is a typically bombastic work of Soviet art. More interesting are the individual graves, of which some are still well looked after.
Churches Holy Virgin Mary Scapular Church (Ĺ vÄ?. MergelÄ—s Marijos Ĺ kaplierinÄ—s BaĹžnyÄ?ia) B-2, Fonbergo 15, tel. +370 313 552 28. The
first brick church in Druskininkai was completed in the 1844. Suffering a singularly strange career, the church didn’t get a priest until 1879, and was eventually demolished under puzzling circumstances in 1931, the same year the current church was completed. A red, neo-Gothic beauty, the building was designed by the Polish architect Stefan Szyller (1857-1933). Countless visits have found the doors firmly bolted, although we’re reassured by the local tourist information people that they should be open in the future. Q Services: 18:00, Sat 10:00, Sun 09:00, 10:30, 12:00.
Russian Orthodox Church (DruskininkĹł OrtodoksĹł BaĹžnyÄ?ia) B-2,
Laisvės Aikťtė, tel. +370 313 555 44. Originally built between 1861 and 1865, this diminutive blue wooden building is delightful, both inside and out. When you’ve finished gaping in wonder at the exterior (unfortunately the glazed cupolas can’t be visited) go through the main door and be astonished at the sheer splendour of the array of icons and religious paintings scattered throughout. The church was completely renovated towards the end of the Soviet occupation with the assistance of experts from the Heritage Museum in St. Petersburg.
The accommodation available in the occasionally spectacular scenery around Druskininkai offers everything from a peaceful farmstead by the side of a lake where you’ll be left in peace to the Lithuanian equivalent of a boot camp complete with communal countryside living, sports activities and the chance to get horribly drunk on the local firewater with the locals. Plenty of superb, excellent value options are available, of which the Tourist Information Centre are only too happy to advise on. As well as setting up permanent camp, there are also plenty of options for moving about, making renting a car a necessity. For more information about car rental, see Arriving & Getting around.
Bowling & Billiards ing on just four lanes plus the chance to lose all your money in a slot machine. If you really like it here and haven’t gambled all your money away you can also take advantage of the in-house catering. QOpen 12:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-22:00. A Atlantida C-2, Dineikos 1 (Spa Vilnius Sana), tel. +370 313 516 04. Six lanes of bowling, Russian billiards, three pool tables, darts and a bar inside Spa Vilnius Sana. QOpen 16:00-23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00-02:00, Sun 13:00-23:00. A SĹŤkurys B-2, M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 51, tel. +370 313 522 12, www.sukurys. lt. Eight lanes of bowling, two pool tables, a boxing machine and outdoor tennis courts. There’s a bar too, which seems to be the favourite haunt of the town’s youth who still aren’t old enough to get into a proper bar or a club. Accordingly it gets busy (if not a little rowdy) during weekends. QOpen 17:00-24:00, Fri 17:00 -02:00, Sat 11:00-02:00, Sun 11:00-22:00.
Euro VaistinÄ— M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 50, tel. +370 313 511 64. M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 99, VeisiejĹł 31. QOpen 08:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun 09:00-15:00.
Post Central Post Office (Senasis PaĹĄtas) Fonbergo 4, tel. +370 313 513 36. QOpen 08:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-13:00. Closed Sun.
Supermarkets IKI M. K. Čiurlionio 107, tel. +370 313 511 34. Lithuania’s first Western-style
supermarket chain. Their Druskininkai offering sells a good range of local and imported food and drink, plus stationary, socks etc. QOpen 08:00-22:00. Maxima M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 99, tel. +370 313 603 23. Currently in the process taking over the country with their aggressive approach to business, the Maxima store in Druskininkai sells an average range of food and drink. Also at VeisiejĹł 31, M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 50. QOpen 08:00-22:00. Norfa Gardino 37, tel. +370 656 130 08. The country’s low budget shopping option. Good for cut price tinned goods and alcohol but not much more. QOpen 08:00-21:00.
lt. Tip-top, hi-tech treatments for beauty and well-being including facials, steam baths, massage and the fabulous-sounding weightlessness therapy. QOpen 11:00-21:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00. A DruskininkĹł Gydykla B-2, Vilniaus 11, tel. +370 313 605 08, www.gydykla.lt. An interesting collection of old and new architecture in perhaps the best location in town. The range of therapies on offer is extensive, including treatments for everything from heart disease to breathing problems. Lie in a bath of mud or simply take a curative shower. QOpen 09:00-18:00. A East Island A-2, Vilniaus 13 (DruskininkĹł Vandens Parkas), tel. +370 313 566 43, www.east-island.lt. Combined spa, massage and what they call exotic treatments (honey and chocolate massages etc., nothing saucy) inside the DruskininkĹł Vandens Parkas. The list of services available is longer than the telephone bill for the entire Second World War. Check the website for more information. QOpen 10:00-21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 09:00-21:00. A
There are a multitude of things to do in an on the Nemunas, from jumping in it to going on a steamboat excursion. At the time of writing there was little information on what’s going to be available during the summer 2009 season. Be sure to find canoes for rent and almost certainly more excursions than the one listed here. For more information, contact the Tourist Information Centre or ask in your hotel.
Excursion to LiĹĄkiava
A fine way of spending three hours is to take a river excursion to LiĹĄkiava (see below). Departing daily at 14:30 from the small (B-2) landing stage close to the Europa Royale hotel, a little white steamboat whisks you north to the small settlement where a tour guide takes you round the sights including the remains of the castle and the Dominican monastery. Only tea and coffee is served on board, so bring a picnic if you need food. Tours run between May 1 and October 20 and cost 32Lt. Under-16s go half price, and children under six can come along for free.
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Ĺ vendubrÄ— Just 5km southwest of Druskininkai and close to the Belarusian
border, Švendubrė is a small traditional village of particular architectural importance. First mentioned in 1620, the village features classic Dzōkija-style homesteads inside enclosed yards. The setting itself is fairly dramatic. Nearby the Nemunykťtis and Nemunas rivers meet close to the steep Black Mountain (Juodasis Kalnas) that probably served as a defensive point hundreds of years ago complete with a small wooden fort. From the top the panorama is truly outstanding. Just north of the village is the so-called Švendubrė Stone (Švendubrės Akmuo), sometimes referred to as the Devil’s Stone and a popular place to visit with tour guides due to the many legends that are told about it.
GrĹŤto Parkas GrĹŤtas, tel. +370 313 555 11, www.grutoparkas.
Vaida GudynaitÄ—
Museums Druskininkai Museum (DruskininkĹł Muziejus) B-2, M. K. ÄŒiurlionio
59, tel. +370 313 510 24. Housed inside a spectacular white villa overlooking Druskonio EŞeras (Druskonis Lake), this collection of small rooms packed with old photographs, furniture, maps, letters, bottles, pianos and much more besides charts the rise of Druskininkai as a health resort and also finds time to host the occasional concert. Of particular interest are the fabulous maps on the walls, including the one from between the wars that clearly shows the bizarre international border running down the middle of Meilės Sala (see Parks & Gardens). The nice people who work here speak some English, and can be persuaded to show you around if it’s not too busy. Charming, and highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 -17:00. Closed Sun. Admission: adults 3Lt, students, children 1Lt.
Forest Echo (Girios Aidas) M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 116, tel. +370 313 539 01/+370 615 172 66. The architectural brainchild of Algirdas ValaviÄ?ius and run by the Lithuanian Foresters’ Union, this unique wooden structure just out of town in the direction of GrĹŤto Parkas is essentially an education museum aimed at enlightening the local population on all things natural as well as explaining humanity’s place and function within the natural world. Featuring a wealth of exhibits including wood carvings, stuffed animals and a small display commemorating Lithuania’s most celebrated naturalist, Tadas Ivanauskas (1882-1971), outside find a large collection of large wood carvings and a specially designed trail to follow through the woods. Unfortunately most displays are in Lithuanian only, although some printed information is available in English on request. QOpen 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: adults 5Lt, children 2Lt.
Jacques Lipchitz Memorial Museum (Ĺ˝. LipĹĄico Memorialinis Muziejus) B-2, Ĺ v. JokĹŤbo 17, tel. +370 313 560 77. Born Chaim Jacob Lipchitz,
The Nemunas near LiĹĄkiava
Vaida GudynaitÄ—
LiĹĄkiava Unmissable, and just 8km or so north along the Nemunas, the tiny
settlement of LiĹĄkiava has been known to exist as a place of relative importance since its first written account in 1044, although excavations prove that the area has been populated for more than two thousand years. Although celebrated for possessing no less than four archaeological monuments, namely the Alka Mound (Alkos Kalnas), Church Hill (BaĹžnyÄ?ios Kalnas), The Bull’s Heel Stone (Akmuo su JauÄ?io PÄ—da) and the Witches’ Stone (RaganĹł Akmuo), the main reason to visit is predominantly an archaeological one. Home to the remains of a 14th-century castle and the marvellous 18th-century Dominican Monastery, the former, built to thwart the ever-threatening Teutonic Order, was originally a wooden construction, later updated to a stronger structure and eventually abandoned after the Order was crushed at the 1410 Battle of Grunwald (Ĺ˝algiris). The monastery and surrounding ensemble of buildings suffered considerably during the Soviet occupation and are in the process of complete renovation with the help of money from the EU. The attached church has some fine works of art from the 17th to the 20th century.
lt. Several Stalins and loads of Lenins litter this bizarre, mildly controversial outdoor sculpture park and information centre less than 10km north of Druskininkai just off the main road to Vilnius. The brainchild of local mushroom millionaire Viliumas Malinauskas, gaze upon row after row of retired communist sculptures, collected en mass from their former positions of importance throughout Lithuania, and take a look inside the park’s purpose-built wooden shacks which hide some wonderful examples of Soviet art and propaganda. A small zoo is also thoughtfully provided so the wild boar in the cages can bite off the little children’s fingers, and if you’re hungry there’s a restaurant too (see Where to eat). Designed to show the negative side of the Soviet occupation, one does have to wonder where all the money goes. It’s certainly not being used to help overthrow Europe’s last great dictatorship a few kilometres away in Belarus. Like it or loathe it, Grōto Parkas is unique, and an essential part of any visit to the area if not Lithuania itself. The statue of a seated Lenin once graced the centre of Druskininkai and was one of only three ever made of the great man sat on his behind. Well signposted, find it less than 1km from the main Vilnius-Druskininkai road. Buses run regularly from the capital to the turn off. Local bus Nº2 runs all the way to the park from the front of Druskininkai’s bus station QOpen 09:00-20:00. Admission: adults 20Lt, children 10Lt.
The great outdoors One could be excused for thinking that everything there is to see and do in Druskininkai takes place under a roof of one description or another. Not so. For those looking for a literal breath of fresh air, the town and surrounding region can accommodate in plenty of ways. The starting point is in one of the parks or gardens mentioned in the Sightseeing section of this guide, which can be enjoyed on foot or with the help of two wheels. Several cycle routes, each divided into different lengths for different abilities and tastes, now exist in and around Druskininkai, taking you on a number of pleasant meandering journeys around lakes and through forests. These same routes can also be enjoyed during the winter, at least they can when there’s snow on the ground, care of cross-country skiing. Plants have been grown along parts of these routes to introduce specific health-giving properties into the lungs. The town also provides opportunities for everything from quad bike adventures to ice-hockey on the lake during the winter. For maps, information on hiring bicycles and more about the multitude of available outdoor options, visit the Tourist Information Centre or speak to somebody in your hotel. The local air really is clean and the nature, if not exactly breathtaking, is at least picturesque.
Raigardas Valley (Raigardo Slėnis) offers an instant glimpse into the nature that shaped the local culture. From the old Lithuanian meaning Swamp City, Raigardas legend tells that in the mists of time there once stood a great city here that was swallowed up by the earth. Pagan mythology aside, today’s valley landscape was formed fairly recently about 5,000 years ago and is still forming. The valley, which is covered in pine trees all the way down to the bottom where freshwater springs can be found, is surrounded by dunes and meadows bursting with wild flowers and wildlife during the summer. The valley is fabulous hiking territory as well as the ideal place for a picnic.
Date May 2
Event GrĹŤtas Park Festival
Venue GrĹŤtas Entertainment Season opening in Druskininkai Square (Vilniaus 11), Druskonis Lake Youth chamber music days Entertainment Square Druskomanija Druskininkai International Theatre Events and concert halls around town Festival Events and concert Music Weekends halls around town M. K. ÄŒiurlionis International Art Festival Museum, DrusDruskininkĹł Vasara su kininkai Museum Druskininkai events M. K. ÄŒiurlioniu and concert halls Entertainment Culture Festival VaivorykĹĄtÄ— Square DzĹŤkija Region Folklore Dance Entertainment Square Festival KadagynÄ— M. K. ÄŒiurlionis Museum, M. K. Piano Music Summer in ÄŒiurlionis Academy Druskininkai of Music (Vytauto 23) Art Amatuers’ Festival Entertainment Square MenĹł ArtelÄ— International Pianists, Chamber Piano Ensembles, Chamber Entertainment Square Orchestra Festival Muzika be SienĹł International Art Festival Druskos Entertainment Square MetamorfozÄ—s Entertainment Dainava Folklore Event Square Entertainment Summer Event Vasaros Aidai Square International Singing Poetry Entertainment Square Festival Druskos Traukinys International Painters Meeting MaĹžoji Galerija (M. K. ÄŒiurlionio 37) M. K. ÄŒiurlionio Dienos Various outdoor Painters Meeting Raigardas locations International Tourism Day and Various outdoor locations outdoor picnics International Literature Festival Dainava Centre (Maironio 22) Poetinis DruskininkĹł Ruduo Entertainment New Year’s Eve & Christmas Square plus resevents taurants and halls throughout town Find more at www.info.druskininkai.lt
May May May September May September
June September June
June - August Cross-country skiing
Anna Kaciun
Raudoni Drambliai Tel. +370 643 334 33, info@raudonidrambliai.lt, www.raudonidrambliai.lt. For those looking for high adrenalin adventure who don’t mind scaring the living daylights out of the local wildlife, Raudoni Drambliai (Red Elephants) offer quad bike rental and excursions in the local area. Available throughout the year and in all weather conditions, take a look at their Lithuanianonly website for photographic evidence of their insanity.
June - August July July
Water parks
August
DruskininkĹł Vandens Parkas A-2, Vilniaus 13-2, tel. +370 313 523 38,
www.akvapark.lt. Converted from the town’s most extraordinary Soviet-era architectural masterpiece with no attention to aesthetic detail, Druskininkai’s number one tourist attraction panders to the local hoi polloi as well as the masses from further afield. So popular is it in fact that a new bridge across the river is being built to stem the hideous flow of traffic in the town centre, begging the question whether getting any rest and relaxation here is at all possible. There’s no escaping the fact however that it’s jolly good fun. Expect a large pool, bubbling brooks, a veritable Spaghetti Junction of waterslides, restaurants, spa, massage and a gaggle of in-house restaurants and cafĂŠs. QOpen 12:00-22:00, Fri 12:00-23:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. A Spa Druskininkai B-2, Kudirkos 45, tel. +370 313 544 01, www.spadruskininkai.lt. A smaller and less frantic version of its vast neighbour, find this one tucked away behind the Druskininkai hotel. The flying saucer design conceals a decent sized pool with water slides and, according to their own publicity ‘naughty waves’ and ‘funny showers’. There’s a sauna too, plus a range of massage and spa treatments and an average cafĂŠ to boot. QOpen 12:00-22:00, Mon 12:00 -20:00, Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. A
August September September September September October December
Parks & Gardens
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
A quick look at a map of Druskininkai shows the town as a little speck of orange in a huge sea of green. Overflowing with lush open spaces, from the patches of grass surrounding the Catholic church to the 293-hectare forest that hems it in, Druskininkai’s status as a rural oasis is more than justified. For those looking for outdoor rest and relaxation, look no further.
Druskininkų Miťkas (Druskininkai Forest) At a little under 300 hectares, Druskininkų Miťkas provides plenty of opportunities for getting away from it all on foot or two wheels. A typically Eastern European paradise of predominantly pine, birch, linden and chestnut trees, although it’s not exactly a wildlife sanctuary there’s still plenty of fauna to be found including squirrels, hedgehogs and an abundance of birdlife. Popular with the locals year round, including during the autumn mushroom season, the forest features several routes to follow on foot or by bicycle during the summer and on cross-country skis when the snow is on the ground. Options for the latter include the ŽvaigŞdŞių Orbita (Orbit of the Stars), which starts at Druskonio EŞeras (Druskonis Lake) and follows a number of routes of up to 24km. For more information about routes and bicycle rental, check out the Tourist Information Centre or ask in your hotel.
GydyklĹł Parkas (Health Resort Park) A/B-2. Featuring some of the quirkiest sculptures in the country, the park, like the town itself, is currently receiving a makeover. Future promised additions include information kiosks, health-orientated pathways and a new fountain. Even without these, the area is particularly nice during the summer months and offers the chance of a bit of nature without having to go very far at all.
Hotels Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
VILNIUS
Hotels Restaurants CafĂŠs nightlife sightseeing Events Maps
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MeilÄ—s Sala (Love Island) A-1. The small, lozenge-shaped MeilÄ—s Sala (Love
Island) on the Nemunas to the northwest of the town requires a boat or a bracing swim to reach it, but is more than worth the effort if you’re looking for a little isolation. Curiously, between the wars when the Nemunas formed the border between Lithuania and Poland, the little island was split in two by a barbed wire fence. Although no records remain regarding whether the Lithuanians used their half or not, the Poles continued to visit in droves over a footbridge that unfortunately no longer remains, where they’d lie on the southern beach a few metres away from a country they were technically at war with.
Museum of Resistance & Deportation (Rezistencijos ir Tremties Muziejus) B-2, Vilniaus 24, tel. +370 656 083 73. Hidden away inside a
Anna Kaciun
Druskininkai events 2009
June September
Raigardas Valley Less than 10km south of Druskininkai, the spectacular
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Druskininkai’s most notable Jew was without doubt the Cubist sculptor known internationally as Jacques Lipchitz (1891-1973). This small museum dedicated to his memory is closed for a large part of the year, but if enough noises are made in the right direction (the museum is part of the Jewish National Museum), it’s possible to have a look inside. Q Open Jun-Sep. Tue-Thu 12:00-17:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun. Admission free.
nondescript building in the centre of the action this diminutive museum aims the spotlight on the local resistance movement who fought the Soviet occupiers from their forest hideaways from the end of WWII until the last of them were flushed out in 1953. A low budget affair with little information in English, a journey round with somebody who can translate for you makes the experience much more worthwhile. Seldom open to the public, a telephone call usually gets the doors unlocked. QOpen 13:00-17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat. Admission free.
Fresh from their success building a similar adventure-filled space in Palanga, local lads Marijus Krasnickas and Kostas KaÄ?erauskas are at the time of going to press building a new, adrenalinesque playground for the brave and foolhardy in Druskininkai. Located immediately north of the DruskininkĹł Vandens Parkas, the park up in the trees will contain crazy bridges, nets and all manner of rope contraptions over the river. The park is due to open in time for the high season at the start of June.
what to see
GrĹŤto Parkas
Druskininkai Museum
Wild adventure
Aqua Rojus A-2, Vilniaus 13, tel. +370 697 080 08, www.aquameduna.
what to see
Local woodcarver Antanas ÄŒesnulis’ garden has been turned into a large timber fairytale, complete with an extraordinary, four-storey windmill he built himself at the entrance. The jovial folk artist has lived here for some three decades, producing a range of carvings both big and small and based on many characters from religious figures to people in the theatre. An interesting diversion, NaujasodÄ— is about 3km from Druskininkai, just the other side of RatnyÄ?ia. QOpen 09:00-17:00. Admission: adults 5Lt, children3Lt.
events
Massage & Spa
River trips
Pharmacies
Jewish Cemetery (Žydų Kapinės) C-2. Jews started settling in Druskininkai
relatively late by Lithuanian standards in the middle of the 18th century, working as craftsmen and businessmen as well as in various merchant trades. The town’s most famous Jew was the sculptor Jacques Lipchitz (1891-1973), who lived there until he was 18. Making up around half of Druskininkai’s population by the beginning of the 20th century, WWII saw the town’s thriving Jewish community thrown out of their homes and forced to live in huts in the outskirts of the city before being sent via the concentration camp at Kielbasin in August 1942 to their deaths in the gas chamber at the Treblinka extermination camp soon after. What’s left of the town’s Jewish cemetery is hidden in the woods a few hundred metres directly southwest of the Tourist Information Centre at Gardino 3.
According to the local Russian Orthodox priest, the mud used for therapeutic purposes in Druskininkai is, unlike most mud used in the West, pure, and therefore much, much better for you. This may or may not be true, but what is for certain is that like just about everywhere else in the world, Druskininkai is being forced to adopt a more modern approach in order to survive as a tourist destination. Where once the town offered nothing but fresh air, exercise, mineral baths and a peaceful, natural environment, it now sees a modernistic vision of nature complete with spaceship-looking buildings concealing scores of tired executives and their wives in nylon underpants receiving electronic therapy under fluorescent lights to the sound of MTV. Nature is fighting back however, and the balance is being rightfully restored. If your idea of a relaxing weekend isn’t lying by the side of an indoor swimming pool and listening to the screams of 500 children, be assured that there are more than enough peaceful options on offer as well.
Alita A-2, Vilniaus 13 (Aqua MedĹŤna), tel. +370 313 591 95. Petite bowl-
ÄŒesnulis Rest & Sculpture Park (ÄŒesnulio Poilsio ir SkulptĹŤrĹł Parkas) NaujasodÄ—, tel. +370 313 524 48, www.cesnuliusodyba.puslapiai.lt.
The Old Town Cemetery (Senosios Miesto Kapinės), located immediately west of the bus station provides a swift and atmospheric ethnic history lesson, featuring graves going back several hundred years with inscriptions in Polish, Lithuanian, Russian and Belarusian. One can only wonder where the town’s former Tartar community are buried. The two other cemeteries of note are located just south and north of the Old Town Cemetery respectively.
Countryside tourism
ÄŒiurlionis Memorial Museum
Banks
Out of town
Cemeteries
M. K. ÄŒiurlionis Raigardas Valley (fragment)
The place to look if you can’t find what you need in the rest of the guide.
what to see
Druskininkai is by no stretch of the imagination bristling with fabulous churches and world class museums. What it does possess however are a handful of places to visit offering a fascinating insight into the town and some of its more illustrious former inhabitants as well as a few evocative gems. It’s possible to use up an entire day exploring the town’s cultural sights and open spaces, and well worth making the time to do so.
Leisure
Leisure
M. MelnikaitÄ— sculpture by R. Antinis
Sco
Sveikatingumo Parkas (Health Park) B/C-2, Sausoji 1. This extraordinary example of post-war Soviet thinking was at one time a socially-designed space for the healthy benefit of the common people although it no longer sees regimental rows of model Soviet citizens doing endless press-ups in Hungarian designer tracksuits. Once planted with flora designed for their health-giving properties and featuring a cafĂŠ and outdoor swimming pool, the park has since independence fallen into serious disrepair although it’s still open to the public. An investment of 1.5Lt million has been put aside for its regeneration, with Japanese gardens, a new bathhouse and pretty paths and benches all promised in the near future. The lovely mosaic by the entrance dates from 1962 and is the work of the Lithuanian artist Marija MaÄ?iulienÄ— (b. 1929).
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Druskininkai In Your Pocket VokieÄ?iĹł 10-15 Vilnius, Lithuania, LT-01130 tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76 fax (+370-5) 212 29 82 druskininkai@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 2029-2368 ŠUAB “VIYPâ€? Print run 6,000 copies Sales & Circulation
Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket General Manager RĹŤta KlimaviÄ?iĹŤtÄ— Accounting CO Finansai Sales Manager Inga GrikienytÄ—
Editor Sco Research Saulina KochanskaitÄ— Layout & Design Vaida GudynaitÄ— Cover Photo Monument to M. K. ÄŒiurlionis (1975) by Vladas VildĹžiĹŤnas (photographer, Anna Kaciun) Copyright notice Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP 1992-2010; some photos, LATGA-A; maps, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (VokieÄ?iĹł 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212 29 76).
Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
introducing Druskininkai
arriving & getting around
getting around
where to stay
Tourist information
Street smarts
Symbol key
Tourist Information Centre B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio
Below is a list of Lithuanian street and place names. We shorten some of these as is standard practice using just the main name. For example, Vilniaus Alėja is simply referred to as Vilniaus.
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
X Smoking rooms
H Conference facilities
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
R LAN connection
S Take away
K Restaurant
B Outside seating
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
I Fireplace
W Wireless Internet access
65, tel. +370 313 517 77, information@druskininkai.lt, info.druskininkai.lt. A friendly place to go for information not listed here and well as the personal touch in English, find a battalion of brochures, maps and other tourist-related necessities. They can also advise on tour guides as well as things to see and do in the region. Also at (C-2) Gardino 3, tel. +370 313 608 00. Open 08:15-17:15. Closed Sat, Sun.QOpen 10:00 -18:45, Sun 10:00-17:00.
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Some 130km or so southwest of Vilnius and almost exactly the same distance south of Kaunas, Druskininkai can be reached by road from either city in two hours or so. Close to two international borders, people driving from Poland to Vilnius, central Lithuania or beyond should consider visiting Druskininkai when passing through.
Arriving by bus View from Druskonis lake
Antanas Balkė
According to legend, there once stood a castle on the banks of the Nemunas at Liškiava, close to where modern-day Druskininkai stands. One day the lord of the castle had a grand day’s hunting, and, according to pagan principles shot a hawk to keep the Gods content. For reasons lost to the mists of time, the hawk plunged into the river, followed by the lord, of whom the latter promptly vanished. His wife ran up and down the riverbank in tears, and where her tears landed, great salty springs sprung up. The word Druskininkai comes from the Lithuanian word for salt, druska, which whether you believe in the story above or the slightly more convincing idea that the salt-rich earth in the area was formed when the region was under the sea several thousand years ago, explains why, in 1794, the town was granted the distinction of becoming an official health resort. With a population of just under 20,000, Druskininkai’s contemporary popularity has seen it in the last 100 years find itself part of Lithuania, Poland, Belarus, Russia and the Soviet Union. Safely back in the hands of the Lithuanians, Druskininkai, now operating under the banner Wellness Springs Resort, is one of the country’s fastest growing destinations, a former nomenklatura playground and host to some startlingly unique architecture from its wonderful Russian Orthodox church to a handful of 1970s, Futurist-style buildings. The town can also claim two past great artistic residents in the Jewish sculptor Jacques Lipchitz and the Lithuanian national hero Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis. It’s also just a 10-minute drive from Grūto Parkas, the huge Soviet theme park run by the millionaire father of the town’s mayor. Whether you’re planning a visit based on culture, relaxation, or a bit of both, Druskininkai with its mineral water, curative mud and mild climate is well worth further investigation. Here’s what you need to know.
STREET REGISTER Antakalnio Ateities Aušros Baltašiškės Birutės Birštono Dabintos Druskininkų Dzūkų E. Ožeškienės Fonbergo Gardino Gluosnių Jonapolės Kaziulių Kaimynų Kalnų K. Dineikos Klonio
B-2 A-4 A-3 A-3 A/B-1 C-3 B-1 C-3 C-3 A-1 B-2 C-2/3 B-1 A-3 A-3 A-3 B-1 B/C-2 B-1/2
Kosciuškos A/B-2 Kurorto B-3/4 L. Giros C-3 Leipalingio A-3 Lipliūnų A-1 Liepų B-2 Ligoninės B/C-4 Maironio A-1/2 Miciūnų A-3 Mildos A/B-1 Mizarų B-1 M.K. Čiurlionio B-2/3 C-3/4 Nemuno A-1 Pakalnės B-1 Palangos C-3 P. Cvirkos C-3 Radvilonių A-3 Ricielių A-3 Salos A-1
Sakų B-4 Sausoji C-2/3 Sodų B/C-1 Šaltinių A-1 Šilo B-4 Šlaito A-3 Šv. Jokūbo B-2 Taikos B-2 Turistų B-2 Turgaus C-3 Vasario 16-osios B-2 Veisiejų A-3/4 B-4 C-3/4 Vilniaus A/B-2 Vytauto B/C-3 V. Kudirkos B/C-2 V. Krėvės B-3 Žalioji A-1/B-2 Žolynų A-3
A dozen or so buses operate between Vilnius and Druskininkai daily, with a similar amount arriving from Kaunas. Buses start fairly early in the morning and run until mid evening. The journey time for both is just over two hours, depending on the weather. Druskininkai’s bus station is a small, crumbling affair a healthy five-minute walk north along the edge of the lake into the town centre. Facilities include toilets (0.50Lt) and a few lockers (2Lt) for people visiting the town for the day. Taxis can usually be found waiting outside. A trip to your hotel will cost anything from 4-10Lt depending on where it is. There’s no ATM at the station.
Bus Station C-2, Gardino 1, tel. +370 313 513 33, www.druskininkuautobusai.lt. QOpen 05:15-21:00.
Arriving by car On a good day you can drive to Druskininkai from Vilnius or Kaunas in about 90 minutes, although it’s advisable to allow a good couple of hours for the journey. To get there from the former, take the A1 (E85) highway west out of the city, followed by the A4 in the direction of Druskininkai and keep driving. The road turns to the left at the crossroads at Merkinė, then it’s straight from there. There are several options for getting to Druskininkai from Kaunas. Ultimately you need to head south out of the city and travel more or less via Alytus, an uneventful town with a small centre that could be used for a break along the way. Parking becomes unbearable in Druskininkai during the summer, making booking a hotel with guarded parking a definite advantage.
Car rental Not everybody wants to get the bus to Druskininkai, plus many of the sights listed here are simply too far to walk to. Renting a car in Lithuania remains relatively cheap. All of the major players are here (see below), or for the ultimate low-budget experience with a friendly face contact the inimitable Rimas (tel. +370 698 216 62, rimas.cars@is.lt) who has cars coming out of his ears.
Automobilių Nuoma.lt www.carrental.lt Avis www.avis.lt Budget www.budget.lt Easy Rental www.easyrental.lt Europcar www.europcar.lt Hertz www.hertz.lt Sixt www.sixt.lt Unirent www.unirent.lt
For more on travel in Lithuania see lithuania.inyourpocket.com
Aikštė Alėja Gatvė Kelias Plentas Prospektas Tiltas
Square Alley Street Road, Way Highway Avenue Bridge
where to stay
Dalia B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio 97, tel. +370 313 477 77, info@hoteldalia.lt,
Lithuania is as flat as a pancake, has relatively little traffic, a bracing coastline and lots of interesting places to see, making it an attractive destination for cyclists. Druskininkai is no exception, and even comes with several pleasant cycle routes in the surrounding parks and countryside. Those wanting to know more about cycling options in the country and the Baltic States in general will be delighted to learn that a well established, non-profit organisation exists to help in many ways. Offering everything from maps, cycling tours and even bicycle rental where you can pick up a machine in one country and drop it off in another, for more information take a look at the splendid website at www. bicycle.lt
delita.lt. Opened in 2008 and not too far east of the centre, De Lita offers goodlooking rooms for equally good-looking prices. Options include everything from doubles to royal suites, all with free internet connections, satellite television and pleasant balconies with the Royal option. There’s also an attached restaurant complete with tropical fish, conference facilities and a whole host of wellness possibilities for him and her. Q38 rooms (24 singles 120-150Lt, 24 doubles 180-210Lt, 6 suites 280-300Lt, 8 mini suites 240Lt). PTAUK
Bus schedule From Druskininkai Dep. Arr. 05:30 06:25 08:00 09:15 09:25 11:10 11:50 12:55 12:30 13:35 14:25 15:25 15:50 17:00 17:00 18:00 18:15 19:15 05:30 07:30 06:50 09:05 08:00 10:50 09:25 12:50 11:50 14:25 14:25 16:30 15:50 18:30 17:00 19:35 18:15 20:45 07:25 12:15 08:40 15:25 07:25 12:50 08:40 15:55 10:30 15:50 14:25 19:40 05:30 07:35 06:50 08:20 08:30 10:20 10:30 12:40 12:00 13:50 13:00 15:05 14:50 16:40 15:40 17:55 17:50 19:55 19:00 21:00
City ALYTUS ALYTUS ALYTUS ALYTUS ALYTUS ALYTUS ALYTUS ALYTUS ALYTUS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KLAIPĖDA KLAIPĖDA PALANGA PALANGA ŠIAULIAI ŠIAULIAI VILNIUS VILNIUS VILNIUS VILNIUS VILNIUS VILNIUS VILNIUS VILNIUS VILNIUS VILNIUS
To Druskininkai Dep. Arr. 07:35 08:50 08:30 09:30 09:35 10:35 11:00 11:55 12:20 13:25 15:10 16:10 17:20 19:05 19:10 20:15 20:55 21:50 06:10 08:50 08:05 10:35 09:55 11:55 10:20 12:30 11:10 13:25 14:05 16:10 14:40 17:30 17:40 20:15 19:50 21:50 08:30 15:20 17:00 21:50 07:55 15:20 16:25 21:50 04:00 09:30 07:20 08:40 10:00 12:30 15:40 16:15 17:10 17:55 18:30 20:30
09:30 10:45 12:15 14:20 17:30 18:25 19:00 20:00 20:45 22:35
Correct at the time of going to press (April 2, 2009) and subject to change during the lifetime of this mini guide. The website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the best resource for up-to-date, accurate information about travelling by bus in Lithuania.
Ivolita B-2, Šv.Jokūbo 10, tel. +370 313 400 29/+370 313 400 30,
Plenty of options from ordinary hotels to all-inclusive health tourism deals at one of the town’s destination spas. A few good value self-catering packages are also available. It’s advisable to book in advance during the high summer season. Hotel prices are considerably lower than in the capital.
registratura@ivolita.lt, www.ivolita.lt. A central location and another good value place, the slightly feminine rooms come with flowery bedcovers, dark wood furnishings, and small kitchens in the more expensive luxury apartments. All rooms are en suite, there’s refrigerators for everybody, internet connections and extras including romantic breaks for couples and miscellaneous spa-related activities. Q 27 rooms (21 doubles 150-170Lt, 6 suites 180-260Lt). AUK
Upmarket Aqua Medūna A-2, Vilniaus 13, tel. +370 313 591 95, fax +370 313 59 194,
Jerevan M. K. Čiurlionio 128, tel./fax +370 313 555 54, info@jerevan.
aquameduna@stamita.lt, www.aquameduna.lt. Flatscreen televisions, refreshing ochre tones and the bonus of being located inside Druskininkai’s premiere leisure attraction conspire to tempt lusty visitors of a leisurely persuasion with everything they need with the exception of somebody to carry them around on their back. Absolutely everything you could possibly wish for under one roof. Q91 rooms (7 singles 150-200Lt, 77 doubles 230-280, 5 suites 360-440Lt, 2 apartments 599-699Lt). PHARUILKW
Best Western Central B-2, Šv. Jokūbo 22, tel. +370 313 605 33, fax +370 313 605 34, office@centralhotel.eu, www.centralhotel.eu. Once run by Jacques Lipchitz’s parents and originally opened in 1909, this magnificent building in the heart of the action is now in the capable hands of the Best Western chain. A cavalcade of friendly staff attend to your every need should you ever venture from the comfort of its pleasant rooms, which not only cost a relative handful of buttons to sleep in but that are also rammed to the rafters with every possible convenience. Q 35 rooms ( singles/doubles 189-259Lt). PHAULKD Druskininkai B-2, Kudirkos 43, tel. +370 313 525 66, fax +370 313 513 45, reception@hotel-druskininkai.lt, www.hotel-druskininkai.lt. Everything from the gurgling fountain in the lobby to the attached water park speaks volumes about the status of this place. A cut above most other accommodation options in town, paying that little bit extra opens doors to such treats as truly competent staff, free wireless internet and an hour in the aforementioned aqua facilities. At these prices you can probably afford the Presidential Suite complete with Jacuzzi and more square metres than a small African republic. Q50 rooms (11 singles 210Lt, 20 doubles 260-300Lt, 8 suites 430-500Lt, 1 apartment 800Lt, 10 junior suites 320-370Lt). PHARULKDW
Europa Royale B-2, Vilniaus 7, tel. +370 313 422 21, fax +370 313 422 23,
druskininkai@EuropaRoyale.com, www.europaroyale.com. Arguably the jewel in Druskininkai’s crown, Europa Royale encompasses both a fabulously renovated mansion and an adjoining modern wing, both of which offer their own particular experience. The rooms are bright, clean and come with heated bathroom floors, bathrobes, minibars and free internet connections via a cable. The location next to the river is a definite plus. Q101 rooms (6 singles 200-259Lt, 75 doubles 235-294Lt, 9 suites 269-363Lt, 11 apartments 622-690Lt). PTHARUFLKDW
Regina A-2, Kosciuškos 3, tel. +370 313 590 60, fax +370 313 590 61,
reservation@regina.lt, www.regina.lt. The first modern hotel to open in postindependent Druskininkai has long since been eclipsed by other, more ostentatious affairs, but Regina remains a firm favourite among its guests, and for good reason. Small in an intimate, homely kind of way, the rooms are a cut above their three-star status, all coming with the basics such as satellite television. There’s also three deluxe rooms suitable for families. Q40 rooms (8 singles 128-190Lt, 29 doubles 187-280Lt, 3 suites 272-400Lt). PTHAK
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times
MINI-GUIDE
2009 - 2010
Druskininkai Map Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights
Population Lithuania 3,354,500 Druskininkai 24,755 Territory 65,303 square kilometres Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland, peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest distance is 276km, east to west is 373km. Borders Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia 453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km Longest river Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania) Largest lake Drūkščiai 4,479ha Highest point Aukštasis 293.8m
Crime & Safety
Crime is rampant in Lithuania, a great deal of it taking place inside the clandestine world of politics and consequently having little if no effect on the average visitor. Crimes closer to home include such petty annoyances as having bits of your car stolen to the inevitable disappearing purses and mobile phones. Don’t leave valuables in unattended pockets or lying around on tables. The chances of getting robbed in the street remain tiny. However, caution never did anybody any harm, and you’re advised not to flaunt your wallet in stupid places or announce to the entire world your huge wealth by wearing loud jewellery in quiet back streets. Walk tall, look like you know what you’re doing, and you won’t be troubled.
Electricity
Lovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls at 220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round two-pin European variety. Some thinner Russian sockets still exist, although if you push hard enough you should get the plug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should bring an appropriate adaptor, as they’re almost impossible to find in Lithuania.
Floors
The Lithuanians use the same system as the Americans, considering the floor at street level to be the first floor and so on.
Language
Lithuanian is a very odd language indeed. One of the oldest still spoken today, the tongue that time forgot is supposedly similar in grammatical form as well as sharing many of the same words with, of all things, Sanskrit. With seven noun cases, four declension patterns, absolutely no similarity to anything you’ve ever heard before and an obligation to pronounce the stress on every word in the right place to stand any chance whatsoever of being understood, getting to grips with the local lingo is at best tough. Thankfully, most places in Druskininkai are now fairly English-friendly.
Money Čiurlionio 65, tel. +370 313 517 77, Gardino 3, tel. +370 313 608 00, info.druskininkai.lt, information@druskininkai.lt, www.info.druskininkai.lt
De Lita C-3, Vytauto 43, tel. +370 313 591 98, hotel@veika.lt, www.
Symbols for the Where to eat, Bars & Clubs and Where to stay section of this guide.
basics Basic data
Tourist Information Centre
www.hoteldalia.lt. A good value hotel close to the centre, what this place lacks in trouser presses and bellhops it more than makes up for with quirky style. The colourful rooms come in a range of choices from standards to mini apartments to rooms designed for families. The en suite bathrooms come with heated floors plus there’s a refrigerator in every room to keep your favourite treats cool. Wireless internet is only available in reception and the in-house café. Q18 rooms (14 doubles 90-160Lt, 2 apartments 250-290Lt, 2 mini suites 170-210Lt). AK
E Live music
Cycling
where to stay
The unit of currency in Lithuania is the litas (Lt), which comes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt and 500Lt notes, 1, 2 and 5 litas coins and a number of weightless, worthless and perfectly useless centai/centų coins. The litas is pegged to the euro at rate of 3.45Lt to €1. Most places of any note in Druskininkai happily accept major credit cards, and ATMs joyfully spew out money to any foreigner with money in their account. If you’re planning a trip out of town however, make sure you take plenty of cash along as it can still be rather old fashioned to say the least.
lt, www.jerevan.lt. A couple of kilometres out of town on the road to Vilnius, this unremarkable three-star hotel is perfectly fine, but considering you can get the same for less in the town centre one does have to wonder what they’re playing at. On the plus side, its Armenian credentials ensure that the kitchen churns out better tasting food than most of its contemporaries. Worth a trip for the dolma and grilled meat dishes if nothing else. Q 10 rooms (6 doubles 150-180Lt, 2 mini suites 200-230Lt, 1 suite 250-280Lt). ARLW
Spa Vilnius Sana C-2, Dineikos 1, tel. +370 313 538 11/+370 313 591 60, fax +370 313 520 46, info@spa-vilnius.lt, www.spa-vilnius.lt. Packing in both a hotel and spa complex, the former furnishes guests with a multitude of classy options from pert little singles to sprawling suites complete with interactive television and bathrobes. A little on the expensive side compared to others in its class, the staff do at least go out of their way to make you feel welcome. Useful if you’re planning to combine a stay with some serious pampering, but not the best value in town if you just need a bed for the night. Q 187 rooms ( 24 singles 219Lt, 114 doubles 279Lt, 21 suites 389-419Lt, 7 apartments 469Lt). PTHARUFLKDCW
Violeta B-3, Kurorto 4, tel. +370 313 606 00, fax +370 313 606 02, info@
violeta.lt, www.violeta.lt. Opposite the Draugystė destination spa on the edge of the Nemunas and boasting arguably the loveliest views in Druskininkai (for which you pay a little extra), Violeta’s classy without the accompanying price tag. Good value accommodation with all the trimmings plus the option of miscellaneous spa treatments should they be required. Q20 rooms (2 singles 180 -200Lt, 13 doubles 230-340Lt, 4 suites 300-380Lt, 1 apartment 600-900Lt). HARUFLKDXC
Mid-range Credo B-2, Vilniaus 2a, tel. +370 313 515 55, fax +370 313 400 27, info@credo-hotel.lt, www.credo-hotel.lt. A dinky modern box overlooking the Catholic church featuring a selection of pastel-brown rooms at extremely affordable prices. Perks include free internet, heated bathroom floors and a decent inhouse café. Q 22 rooms ( 20 singles/doubles 150-220Lt, 2 suites 240-340Lt). PAULKW
druskininkai.inyourpocket.com where to stay Destination spas Belorus A-2, Maironio 2, tel. +370 313 606 18/+370 615 149 40, info@be-
lorus.lt, www.belorus.lt. The daunting Belorus and its additional wooden house provide accommodation and a plethora of diagnostic and medical services in the centre of town. The rooms and apartments are plain but adequate, with kettles, en suite bathrooms, cable television and some cracking views. Among the cavalcade of therapies and extras are underwater massage, athletics field, ballroom and even a cinema. Q Singles 105-180Lt, doubles 144-170Lt, mini suites 183-188Lt, suites 192-204Lt, apartments 207-212Lt). THAIFLKDCW
Draugystė B-2, V. Krėvės 7, tel. +370 313 531 32, sanatorija@draugyste.
lt, www.draugyste.lt. The old dame of Druskininkai’s destination spas and now completely renovated, this vast complex is the ultimate blast to the past health tourist experience. Guests have the option of simply using it as a hotel or also taking advantage of its many therapies, including treatments for cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, locomotor and many other ailments. Find it close to the river, a five-minute walk from the main sights. Q 142 rooms (64 singles 135-170Lt, 48 doubles 130-150Lt, 27 suites 170Lt, 3 apartments 190Lt). AUDC
Eglės Eglės 1, tel. +370 313 602 20, fax +370 313 602 38, info@sanatorija.
lt, www.sanatorija.lt. One hundred types of massage and other treatments including water therapies from their own deep mineral springs. Accommodation is available in two huge buildings, the rooms being clean if a little basic with cable television and refrigerators being the poshest bits. Aimed at the local as well as the international health tourism market, you can stay here without treatment if you like, although the location far to the east of the town centre may just put you off.Q 669 rooms (229 singles 183-200Lt, 400 doubles 155-173Lt, 40 suites 200-217Lt. Prices for one person, including procedures and all meals). THUFLKDC
Budget Žirmūnų Mokymo Centras B-2, Vilniaus 30, tel./fax +370 313 510 91,
druskininkai@vzdrmc.lt. If you’re in Druskininkai to get away from the internet this is perhaps the best bargain in town. Alongside the aforementioned lack of communications, the inside of all the limited selection of rooms here are modern if basic, have en suite showers, television and a refrigerator. The deluxe room has the added luxury of a bath and small lounge. There’s even a communal kitchen. A fabulous budget option. Q 6 doubles 65-80Lt/person. PU
Guesthouses Dalija B-2, Vasario 16-osios 1, tel. +370 313 518 14, www.dalijahotel.
lt. With a splendid view of the Russian Orthodox Church and within easy walking distance of all the major sights in town, this gorgeous late 19th-century wooden house conceals a range of wooden-walled rooms, some with little kitchens, others with just a refrigerator and all with Soviet-era furniture. For atmosphere and value, this one remains hard to beat. Q11 rooms (5 doubles 80-100Lt, 2 triples 100 -120Lt, 4 suites 120-180Lt). IL
Drusva B-2, Žalioji 9, tel. +370 313 516 46/+370 671 964 64, info@drusva.
lt, www.drusva.lt. Close to the Russian Orthodox Church, Drusva may not be as pretty as some of the places on offer in Druskininkai but once inside you’ll be more than pleased you booked a room. Facilities here, although not exactly up to Radisson standards, provide ample comfort, each room coming with satellite television, kettle, free wireless internet and adequate bathrooms. There’s also a communal kitchen and sauna for guests. Q 9 rooms (doubles 80-100Lt, triples 100-120Lt, quads 120-140Lt). TUW
Medūna B-2, Liepų 2, tel. +370 313 580 33/+370 697 152 99, fax +370
313 580 34, meduna@stamita.lt, www.meduna.lt. On the roundabout that plays host to Druskininkai’s Russian Orthodox Church, prepare yourself for a sparkling, modern affair complete with rooms designed with a distinctively feminine touch, all coming with cable television, en suite showers and little else. The cellar restaurant serves a range of average Lithuanian and international dishes as well as boasting one of the most extensive wine lists in town. Q 20 rooms ( 3 mini doubles 80-140Lt, 9 doubles 120-180Lt, 2 suites 220-300Lt, 6 apartments 350-500Lt). AILKW
Pušynas B-2, Vilniaus 3, tel./fax +370 313 566 66, info@pusynas.lt,
www.pusynas.lt. A concrete biscuit tin designed by a Soviet-era architect with a possible penchant for hedgehogs, the rooms are plain but clean, all coming with en suite facilities and internet connections. The hotel’s nothing particularly special, although the in-house café affords a pleasant view of the Catholic church, and the location is just about as central as it gets. Q67 rooms (11 singles 145-190Lt, 49 doubles 175-220Lt, 7 suites 240-350Lt). HARUXW
Vila Upė C-3, Druskininkų 33, tel. +370 313 554 26, vilaupe@zebra.lt,
www.vilaupe.lt. On the banks of the little Ratnyčėlė, Vila Upė offers a handful of basic albeit spotlessly clean doubles and one apartment with little more than a television and bathroom to keep you occupied. Despite the location and overall cleanliness, the price is a little bit high considering what you get for your money although the chance to have extra beds put in the room for peanuts makes the place much more attractive for families who haven’t come to spend the day in front of a computer. Q 15 rooms (14 doubles 130Lt, 1 apartment 250Lt). A
Vita A-1/2, Maironio 3, tel. +370 313 605 11, fax +370 313 605 12, hotel@galia.lt, www.galia.lt. Excellent value accommodation in a modern wooden building not far from the centre, the rooms all come with en suite facilities and cable television but not internet connections. The downstairs restaurant serves an edible if hardly inspiring breakfast, but should be avoided for main meals. Q19 rooms (2 singles 90-110Lt, 15 doubles 150-220Lt, 2 apartments 250-300Lt). THALK
where to stay Senasis Paštas B-2, Kudirkos 37/40, tel./fax +370 313 517 07, sena-
sispastas@gmail.com, www.senasispastas.lt. Located inside the town’s old post office building find a range of rooms and suites featuring tasteful furniture, heated floors and free internet connections. Like most places in Druskininkai, the price is a bargain, and the location overlooking the town’s main lake and close to all the amenities is an added plus. Q11 rooms (9 doubles 100-180Lt, 1 suite 150-200Lt, 1 apartment 400-500Lt). PARLK
Vila Evelina B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio 36, tel. +370 656 565 71, paulius@
keliavimas.lt, www.vila.ft.lt. A charming wooden building opposite the lake, the modern facilities with lots of exposed wood and bright colours provide everything necessary for a self-catering stay including little kitchens, basic bathrooms and large televisions. Superbly located and really good value for money, especially if you take the almost giveaway family room. Booking well in advance is highly recommended for stays during the summer season. Q (doubles/triples 80-150Lt, family rooms 120-220Lt). W
Apartments Agneta B-2, Laisvės 3, tel. +370 618 008 99, agneta@agneta.lt, www.
agneta.lt. A renovated building just off Vilniaus, the modern apartments here all come with flatscreen televisions, basic kitchens, free wireless internet and Čiurlionis reproductions on the walls. An excellent choice for visitors looking for a good quality yet affordable self catering choice. Q 9 apartments (180220Lt/night). W
Andante B-1, Kalnų 46, tel. +370 682 109 53/+370 682 109 54, info@
andante.lt, www.andante.lt. A bit of a slog to get to being located in the far western part of town, this rather extraordinary-looking modern set of buildings comes with immaculate albeit basic rooms featuring shower cubicles in the bathrooms, television and wireless internet. There’s also a large communal kitchen with a washing machine plus a gaggle of leisurely add-ons such as billiards, table tennis and a sauna. Q 5 rooms (doubles 40-60Lt/night). TW
Meilės Sala B-1, Mildos 7, tel. +370 659 122 22, dgueshouse@gmail.
com, http://druskininkai-guesthouse.eu. Promoting itself as both a guesthouse and an apartment but actually falling somewhere in-between, the spotlessly clean rooms are all kitted out with refrigerators, kettles, en suite shower facilities and cable television. There’s also a fantastic luxury apartment with a balcony that can sleep up to six, plus a separate wooden cottage complete with kitchen, wood-burning stove and a small summer terrace. Q 6 rooms (2 doubles 70-100Lt, 2 quads 140-200Lt, 2 suites 200-250Lt, cottage 200-220Lt). TW
Camping Kempingas C-2, Gardino 3a, tel. +370 313 608 00, camping@druski-
ninkai.lt, info.druskininkai.lt. Clean, tidy, family-friendly and the ideal place to park your caravan or pitch your tent if you don’t want to take advantage of the many excellent facilities provided on site. Ideally located a short way out of the centre so you get nearby forests and lakes whilst being just a few hundred metres stroll from the centre. Q Open May 1 -Oct 1. Tents 25Lt, motorhomes 50-60Lt, two-person cabins 90-120Lt. A
Medea Sveikatos 34, tel. +370 313 584 12, sveciunamai@medea.lt, www.
medea.lt. Part apartment, part guesthouse, part health resort, the fabulous Medea is specially designed to provide beauty-related therapy in relaxed and relatively luxuriant surroundings. Accommodation comes in a small selection of posh-looking apartments with cream leather sofas, fully equipped kitchens and balconies. Health-giving extras include an outdoor Jacuzzi, weight loss programmes and even bicycle rental. Q 11 apartments (250-340Lt). TAD
Parko Vila C-2, K. Gineikos 12, tel. +370 659 634 50, info@parkovila.lt, www.
parkovila.lt. A couple of minutes southeast of the centre in a pleasant leafy location, this fine old wooden building provides good budget accommodation in a series of basic rooms and suites for one, two, three or four people. Facilities are few, but if you just need a clean room for the night this place offers extremely good value for money. There’s also a nice in-house café decorated in an interesting retro style. Q 42 rooms (singles 70Lt, doubles 100Lt, triples 120Lt, quads 150Lt, suites 150Lt). UW
Kempingas
Anna Kaciun