LIMA CITYMAG - APEC 2016

info Lima, November 2016

A five-sense place to enjoy Peru National Museum (next to the Media Center) Candy for the eyes (Pag.6) Sounds with soul and fusion (Pag.7) Delicious aromas (Pag.8) Feel the generous spirit of Pisco (Pag.9) Flavors that feed your soul (Pag.10)

marcaPERU peru peru visitperu peru

#APEC2016

Lima

Welcome you with open arms

A city overlooking the sea

Costa Verde © Evelyn Merino-Reyna

Its pre-Hispanic past, and its history as the capital of the Viceroyalty, together with its huaca temples and colonial mansions, are all testimony of the city’s grandiose past. A melting pot of traditions expressed in its cooking, art and history, "the City of Kings" is a city for all tastes.

A city of the world

Lima’s historical downtown is comprised of the so called Lima Checkerboard and the Rimac district. It is preserved in Unesco’s List of Humanity’s Cultural Heritage sites to honor its architectural and historical treasures.

Historical center city

Squares, streets, convents, churches, mansions and the Cathedral are all pieces of different architectural styles that talk to us about the city’s colonial past, when it was the continent’s most important city. An urban space that summarizes the capital’s fascinating contrasts: at equal distance from the Main Square (Plaza de Armas) lie Chinatown and the centuries-old Acho Bullring. Its vibrant present and remarkable state of conservation led to its designation as a UNESCO Humanity Cultural Heritage site.

Costa Verde

A coastal band stretching 32 kilometers along the Pacific Ocean and across eight Lima districts, Costa Verde is the only road running at the foot of Lima’s cliffs.

It features bicycle lanes, sport fields, free mini-gyms, restaurants enjoying privileged views and to the south, open beaches, some frequented since early morning by surfers riding the ocean’s waves.

Modern Miraflores

Fuente: INEI

2

A green neighborhood hosting world ranked restaurants, magnificent bookstores, large hotels, bicycle lanes, art galleries and bars. Its oceanfront boulevard above the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean connects a dozen public parks local families visit for walks, sports practice and other outdoors activities.

Bohemian Barranco

Lima’s smallest district and yet the one with the most distinctive personality, Barranco’s bohemian atmosphere, hidden parks and legendary bars sit side by side with cultural forums, from the Mario Testino museum (MATE) to the largest collection of Vice-royal XVI century art. Its thematic restaurants and bars housed in restored elegant mansions from the turn of the XX century cater to the trendy crowd. Barranco borders Miraflores to the north and shares with it an oceanfront boulevard. Its museums, theaters and independent art shows, as well as open air urban art on the neighborhood walls, music festivals, art fairs and health food marts and restaurants are some other local attractions.

Cosmopolitan San Isidro

A prime business and residential quarter, San Isidro adds its large and modern office buildings, residential neighborhoods, a private golf link, trendy foreign and local designers’ clothing stores windows, to the city’s landscape. One of Lima’s most visited parks, El Olivar, is located in San Isidro. Some century-old olive trees (hence the park’s Spanish name) still stand on its 87 thousand square meters.

The Ronald Building, Callao © Fernando López / PROMPERÚ

A millenary past

Caral, a site located 182 kilometers north of Lima, is the America's oldest citadel. Built about five thousand years ago, it was revealed to the world in 1997 by Ruth Shady, a Peruvian archeologist, and is preserved now as a Unesco Humanity Cultural Heritage site.

Meanwhile, Pachacamac, located 31 kilometers south of Lima, is a pre-Inca sanctuary that was one of the largest ceremonial centers on the Peruvian coastal band. Its brand new, impressive site museum opened in 2016. Lima itself features emblematic museums, like the Pedro de Osma Museum, home to the most important collection of colonial art; the Amano Museum, featuring an impressive curatorship of pre-Columbian textiles; the Rafael Larco Herrera Archeological Museum, housing the largest collection of gold, silver and ceramics handicrafts and historical pieces, and Peru’s Archeology, Anthropology and History Museum, with over 300 thousand pieces showcasing our pre-Hispanic, colonial and republican legacy.

Aliaga Mansion © Beatrice Velarde / PROMPERÚ

Callao ocean port

The name of Callao reminds us of the rhythm of salsa music, the scent of the sea, and soccer. It brings back the taste of a fish sandwich, and fish and onion tempura.

Two recent additions to the port’s urban landscape are its arts quarter in Historic Callao (Callao Monumental: Facebook/fugazCallao), a recent initiative to rescue that city section’s historical architectural landmarks, but also welcoming modern art interventions, galleries and cultural centers. And then there is La Punta, a beach residential quarter and resort with two oceanfront boulevards running along the point’s (hence its Spanish name) north and south coastlines, and both featuring nautical clubs and pebble beaches, with a sea as calm as a swimming pool.

The Torre Tagle Palace © Carlos Ibarra / PROMPERÚ

Main Square (Plaza de Armas) © Christian Vinces

3

How to enjoy the city Discover some of the most interesting places of traditional and contemporary Lima, in this suggested map.

Panameri

CALLAO

o ca n a N

Jorge Chávez International ernat A Airport

lonial) Ave vides (Ex Co Óscar R. Bena

MALI - Lima Art Museum Grau Ave

Mateo Salado Temple as

Br

ac ión Av e

Ave

4

Amano Pre-Columbian Textiles Museum

MIRAFLO M IRAFLOR RES S

Angamos Este Ave

A. Benav ides Ave

Nature: Beach

BARRANC CO CO

Museum Historic site/monument area

Aviación

Archaeological site

Huallamarca Hu amarca rca Temple Temple

ve oA an ars sM má To

Culture:

N

ve

R. de Panamá Ave

Airport

EA

National Museum

ve do East A Javier Pra

Express Way

Port

OC

y

FIC

SAN LUIS SA LUIS LU

Wa

PA CI

ress

Altitude (average) 154 masl

Exp

Archeology, Anthropology and History Museum Pucllana Temple

do West A

A ve

al

México

a Ave Arequip

Javier Pra

Temperature Max.: 22.1 73.4ºC°F/ /73.4 ºF Min.: 16.6 64.4ºC °F/(Lima) 64.4 ºF

Ave

nv

PUEBLO P BL LIBR LIIB BR REE

Rafael R afaell Larc LLarco Herrer Herre He ra a Ar ology Archeology y Museu Mu eum Muse m

28 de Julio

cu

ela Ave Venezu La M arin a Av e

Ave

Cir

LA PUNTA

uela Venez

ve

Real Felipe Fortress ress

il A

Argentina Ave

Argentina Ave

ve

Ab anc ay Av e

rt

eA

Callao Port

Adventure:

Historic monument

Surfing

Pisco Route

Hang gliding

Bridge of Sighs MATE - Mario Testino Museum Pedro de Osma Museum

SANTIAGO ANTIA A DE SU S SURCO U To Los Pantanos de Villa

To Pachacamac Pach ac / Qhapac Ñan

Miraflores oceanfront boulevard © Leslie Searles / PROMPERÚ

1 day Start with a tour of the historical downtown, walk

around its squares, and visit its colonial churches. Stop by its museums and legendary bars in downtown’s hotels.

After lunch go for an afternoon stroll around Pueblo Libre. Spend the afternoon shopping in San Isidro’s fashion quarter along Conquistadores Ave, and watch the sun set from the Miraflores oceanfront boulevard.

San Francisco Church © Gihan Tubbeh / PROMPERÚ

2 days Start in downtown Lima, touring its squares, churches,

museums, and its bars and taverns. In the afternoon, rent a bicycle to ride along the Miraflores ocean side boulevard. You may also rent a paraglider to fly over the district. Walk to Barranco, Lima’s bohemian quarter, and stay there to enjoy its vibrant night life.

Mario Testino Museum © MATE

1 weekend Book a table at any of Lima's four local best ranked restaurants in the San Pellegrino List of 50 Best Restaurants. Spend your night out in San Isidro, Miraflores and Barranco’s boutique and thematic bars.

Early on Saturday leave for Pachacamac ceremonial center followed by lunch at any of the local rustic barbeque restaurants.

Central Restaurant © Omar Lucas / PROMPERÚ

4 days or more After a day touring the capital city, choose a short trip out of town: northbound to visit Caral and the Huaral beaches; or east, toward the Andean foothills, to have fun rafting the Lunahuaná rapids, and then continue by road to take a look at the Nor Yauyos Cochas scenic reserve.

The archaeological complex of Caral © Christopher Kleihege

5

Candy for the eyes Orchids of a thousand colors

�I

t is absolutely unnecessary for you to learn their scientific names because there are more than 3500 species distributed among 240 genera. But we definitely recommend remembering that almost 775 of them can be found no where else in the world since they grow only in Peru, some even at altitudes of 4,600 masl. Such wealth is explained by the number of ecosystems existing in the country, a guarantee for the presence of hundreds of different forms, sizes and colors. You may want to write down on your trip diary the following name: Phragmipedium peruvianum, which has become Peru’s representative orchid.

Photography: Ministerio del Ambiente

Koellensteinia ionoptera

Epidendrum secundum

Every year appears between

20 and 30

new kinds of Orchids

Oncidium manuelariasii

Sobralia virginalis Elleanthus aurantiacus

Maxillaria sp. OPA 79

Cyrtochilum aureum

Bletia catenulata

6

Mormodes rolfeana

Elleanthus capitatus

Sounds with soul and fusion Feel the beat

P

eruvian music is a full-bodied, elegant sound that has been around since the beginning of time, echoing in traditions that are constantly DDDDDDDbeing reinvented and moving people, whether in the mountains, jungles, or deserts or on its rivers and lakes, to sing and to dance with intense passion and emotion. Its wealth stems from its diversity as well as the melting pot of the important cultures that have influenced it over the centuries. Its heritage is rooted in its people, who have inherited sounds that make people want to celebrate and to fall in love.

The musical concept of Peru is diverse, from the ancient musicians of Caral, who lived over 5000 years ago, to the Andean tradition of accompanying the labor of plowing fields with songs, the “marineras” that honor our national hero, Miguel Grau, and songs dealing with sports composed by José Escajadillo or Augusto Polo Campos, or the guitars of Javier Lazo or Yuri Juárez, whose album, Tangolandó, is an explosive fusion of tango and AfroPeruvian music. The result is music filled with moods and sounds that are linked to the passion of Peruvians.

This repertoire was created by knowledgeable musicians from dozens of cultures and civilizations that flourished in what is today Peru. The process produced a collection of music with its own stamp. We could even say there is a Peruvian brand of music. Using this as their launch pad, composers and artists of this music have brought themselves fame in internationals markets.

Andean harp © Miguel Mejía / PROMPERÚ

Live Music Martha Galdós

THURSDAY 17Th AND SUNDAY 20Th: 18:00 h.

A voice to caress the soul and awaken emotions.

Rhythms from Peru, fused with jazz and others world rhythms. Her most recent album, "Breathe", will give you a moment to remember who you are.

Laurita Pacheco FRIDAY 18Th: 18:00 h.

Known as “harp queen”, Pacheco entered the Guinness Book of World Records in May 2004 after having played the harp uninterruptedly for 300 hours.

La lá

SATURDAY 19Th: 18:00 h.

Lalá will take us with her songs to our musical homes, a world so close to everyone of us, where we recall familiar memories full of surprises and feelings.

Find their music on Spotify Orchestra with tubas © Julio Angulo / PROMPERÚ

Peruvian Cajon © Sandro Aguilar / PROMPERÚ

7

Delicious aromas Coffee and Cacao

The climatic conditions, soil and altitude, along with careful harvesting techniques, lead to traits that give peruvian coffee a special flavor. Because of this, the beans grown here have sensory traits that guarantee a delicious aroma and brew that delights the most demanding markets.

IN THE WORLD Coffee and cacao growing areas

PERU

Cacao

Piura’s White cacao grows over some 1400 hectares under the attentive care of over 1000 growers.

Coffee

Peru produces arabica species, which is one of the mild varieties, and it is prized around the world because the vast majority of our coffee is grown as more than 4000 feet above sea level in microclimates that make it unique on the world market.

S

uccessfully rescuing cacao’s tasty -even addictive- native species requires determining the exact fermentation and drying conditions naaidnneeded to achieve their best qualities. But cacao’s cultivation also has a significant social side to it. For instance, in San Martin region, coca leaf growers are gradually substituting cacao for illicit crops and are now bent on rescuing native cacao species as a way to further expand cacao cultivation.

Other varieties that have found wide acceptance among chocolatiers and the public include the delicate-tasting white cacao of Piura, cacao from Amazonas, and the Chuncho variety from Cusco. Now, many chocolate makers have turned their eyes to these generous berries to use them to make gourmet chocolate bars and bonbons, having won several international chocolate awards along the way. Peru’s Cacao and Chocolate Salon has gained importance and a national competition has been held for two years in a row.

Coffee tells a similar story. It grows in the high jungle area of the eastern Andean slopes, the same area as cacao where outstanding varieties are grown with care and responsibility.

Numerous growers are now betting on this crop first brought to Peru at the end of the XIX century. From their orchards, coffee starts its journey directly to markets.

The farmers’ cleaner production and fair trade schemes have contributed to the expansion of "author coffees".

Meanwhile, experimenting with new filtering methods and a focus on native coffees creates an ever stronger self-feeding value chain.

Coffee cherries © Sandro Aguilar / PROMPERÚ

Tunki coffee, grown by Wilson Sucaticona in Puno, is one of the best of the world.

When?

Coffee Expo

THRUSDAY 17Th AND SATURDAY 19Th: 10:00 h.

Cacao Expo

FRIDAY 18Th: 10:00 h.

Cacao Honey

TUESDAY 15Th: 16:00 h.

Chocolate tasting

MONDAY 14Th TO FRIDAY 18Th AND SUNDAY 20Th: 15:00 h.

8

Capuccino coffee © Maco Vargas / PROMPERÚ

Chocolates Gourmet © Sergio Urday / PROMPERÚ

Feel the generous spirit of Pisco Raise your glass

The best way to enjoy Pisco

Connoisseurs say Pisco must be tasted with love, like a caress before a never ending kiss.

Connoisseurs advise using the right type of glass, the Pisco glass. Shaped as a tulip, the Pisco glass highlights the perfume of Pisco once poured. As your taste explores the generous spirit that goes into Pisco making.

P

isco is a grape distillate, a spirit, made exclusively in Peru by fermentation of fresh must. It is still distilled following the traditions of itsfirst of its first makers, dating back to the end of the XVI century. Pisco is a fishing village located on the South American shores of the Pacific Ocean, 230km south of Lima, Peru’s capital. The name Pisco is a Quechua word, the ancient language of Peru, originally used for a type of bird and which gradually came to be used to name different villages and towns, such as “Piscohuasi” (the house of birds), “Piscopampa” (the prairie of birds), and “Piscobamba” (the field of birds).

Pisco was the name given to the “Valley of the Birds” and by extension to the community living there, the Piskus.

Later, during the Spanish colony, the name Pisco was given to the harbor located in this valley, from where an outstanding local spirit was shipped to Spain and other Spanish colonies. As a result, colonial customs registered the distillate arriving from this port as a “spirit coming from the port of Pisco” or simply “Pisco”.

The regions authorized to produce Pisco are the coastal valleys in the departments of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna.

1.

The glass must be filled a third full, to better appreciate the brightness, transparency and clarity of Pisco.

we slowly bring the glass closer to the 2. Then, nose though never forgetting it must be tasted in its purest forms. We will then discover the bouquet of each variety. The bouquet of a quality Pisco can be a source of indescribable pleasure. the glass to the lips of your mouth, to 3. Bring patiently and slowly appreciate the taste of each sip of distillate. Pisco must not burn your throat, but rather go down smoothly as a nectar.

Cellar and vineyard, Ica © Daniel Silva / PROMPERÚ

Pisco is distilled from 8 grape varieties:

non-aromatic Quebranta, Negra Criolla, Mollar and Uvina, and aromatic Italia, Moscatel, Torontel and Albilla.

The charm of Lima

At the beginning of the 20th century, Union Street, in Lima’s historical downtown, convened the young republic’s elites. Local aristocrats and literati met at its numerous bars and cafes, including Morris Bar, owned

by Victor Morris, an American. Inspired by whisky sour, a mix of bourbon whisky, lemon juice and sugar, Morris mixed the first Pisco sours in the 1920s. Over time, the recipe was perfected by his apprentices, who later took it to the Maury and Bolivar hotels where Pisco captivated the palates of personalities like John Wayne, Orson Welles, Walt Disney, Clark Gable and movies belle Ava Gardner. Ever since, Pisco sour has been Peru’s emblematic cocktail.

When?

Pisco Tasting

MONDAY 14Th AND TUESDAY 15Th: 19:00 h.

WEDNESDAY 16Th TO SATURDAY 19Th: 20:00 h.

Tasting and food pairing

MONDAY 14Th AND TUESDAY 15Th: 17:00 h.

WEDNESDAY 16Th TO SATURDAY 19Th: 19:00 h.

Download to learn more about its history, traditions and recipes.

Pisco Sour © Yayo López / PROMPERÚ

9

Flavors that feed your soul Taste the moment

Prepare by yourself

The best way to learn about our culinary diversity is by tasting it. Take a journey through our most remote history, to travel our territory from the sea to the jungle, to appreciate the knowledge of farmers, the sagacity of our cooks and enjoy the flavors that make us unique.

Cebiche

(4 servings) With five simple ingredients, the intimate creativity of Peruvian cooks of every type creates so many variations that each region can boast its own.

From northern style using hyacinthbean, through from Callao port recipes using red hot “rocoto” peppers, to food carts’ as sold in Lima, served with a home style seafood tempura, or combining fish and seafood.

�I

ntegrating a world of stories that come from the most diverse cultures, our gastronomy has been nourished by influences that make it stand out among the world’s most powerful.

The Spaniards came first. During the Conquest and the Viceroyalty they incorporated techniques, customs and ingredients that fused harmoniously with what Peru already had. With them also came Moorish traditions, which we still find nowadays in the sweets we eat.

Later on, Africans, who arrived to work on estates and houses of ancestry, taught us the wise use of variety meats. The Chinese introduced their masterful sautés, while the fusion of this cooking technique with Peruvian traditions resulted in modern “chifa”. The Japanese migrants unleashed in that fusion a current called today nikkei cuisine while Italians, and their portside culture, brought the stews still prepared in houses all over the country (from Lima to Tacna, and in the sierra, as in Andahuaylas).

Peruvian cuisine is an endless talking point. So broad and generous, it is a cooking of seasoning and techniques, biodiversity and fresh ingredients a consequence of the greatest diversity of ecosystems found anywhere in one single country (84 out of 113 of the world’s catalogued ecosystems). Recipes from the high jungle are different from the Amazon plain’s; cooking in the north coast is in sharp contrast with the south’s powerful and marine cooking, both also different from Lima’s art of cooking, called “creole food”. And in the Andean mountains, forceful and vigorous plates are prepared with substantial foods such as quinoa, kiwicha, guinea pig and potato.

Book

your table free

Mesa 24/7

www.mesa247.pe Also available for IOS and Android

Goldenberry Dessert © Sandro Aguilar / PROMPERÚ

Cut fish in bite-size pieces and place in a glass bowl. Place julienned onions in a separate bowl and cover with cold water, wash them very well, strain and add to the fish and shrimp bowl. Add limo chilli, aji amarillo chilli pepper paste and salt to the fish and shrimp and mix well. Add the ice cubes and mix. Gently juice the limes and strain.

Add the lime juice to the fish little by little. Season with salt and pepper. Discard the ice cubes, add minced cilantro to taste and let stand for a few minutes before serving. Serve cebiche over lettuce leaves with corn, and sweet potato slices.

Cebiche © Erick Andía / PROMPERÚ

*To enhance flavor, add grated ginger, minced garlic, limo chilli pepper paste, rocoto paste, or chilli paste.

When?

Snacks and fruits tasting

MONDAY 14Th TO SUNDAY 20Th: 11:00 h.

Show cooking

Ice Cream tasting

SATURDAY 19TH: 15:00 h.

Bakery

MONDAY 14Th TO SUNDAY 20Th: 12:00 h.

MONDAY 14Th AND SATURDAY 19Th: 16:00 h.

WEDNESDAY 16TH AND FRIDAY 18TH: 16:00 h.

Meal experience

THURSDAY 17TH AND SUNDAY 20TH: 16:00 h.

WEDNESDAY 16Th TO SATURDAY 19Th: 14:00 h.

10

• 450 g fresh fish, filet (sushi grade) • 250 g shrimps, cooked or a mix of shellfish • 2 small onions, julienned • 1 limo chilli pepper, minced, deveined and seeded • 1tablespoon aji amarillo chili pepper paste (optional) • 1-2 ice cubes • 12 to 16 key limes • Cilantro, finely minced • Lettuce leaves • Sweet potato and corn, cooked • Salt and pepper

Confectionery

Superfoods: Tasty & Nutritious Inexhaustible larder of fruits, grains, and vegetables; exceptional products for the palate and body that have turned Peru into a land of unique delicacies.

Sacha Inchi

Cat's Claw

Its seeds contain one of the most important sources of Omega 3, 6 and 9 in the world. The Sacha Inchi Oil is an approved novel food in the European Union.

Medicinal plant with therapeutic properties. Naturally, in extract or tablets, this product is part of the natural drug.

Presentation • Extracts • Capsules • Infusions

Presentation • Flour • Capsules • Beauty products • Oil • Seeds

Goldenberry

Camu Camu

Is a powerful antioxidant, high in vitamins A, B and C, calcium, iron and phosphorus. It is a representative species of native biodiversity of Peru.

A bush from the Amazon rainforest has high vitamin C, more so than other foods with a significant concentration of ascorbic acid. This makes it one of the world’s most powerful natural antioxidants.

Presentation • Snacks • Beauty products • Juice • Jam • Frozen pulp

Presentation • Beauty products • Capsules • Liquors • Yogurt • Frozen pulp • Jam • Juices

Quinoa

A grain of high nutritional value. Its content of lysine provides a proper balance of essential amino acids.

Presentation • Granola • Toasted grain • Yogurt • Juice • Snacks • Cookies • Flour • Flakes

Maca

Powerful physical and mental tonic, with the capacity to enhance the immune system, giving power, strength, energy, stamina, and to reduce stress and fatigue.

It is high in calcium, phosphorus and minerals.

Presentation • Snacks • Cookies • Extracts and juices • Jam • Liquor • Capsules • Flour

11

PROGRAM MON 14Th

TUE 15Th

WED 16Th

THU 17Th

FRI 18Th

09:00

Coffee barista show

10:00

Coffee Expo David Torres

11:00

Snacks and fruits tasting

12:00

Show Cooking

13:00

Arlette Eulert

Jorge Matzuda

Carolina Uechi

20:00

Martha Palacios

Vivawok

Coffee Expo Harry Neyra

André Patsias

Palmiro Ocampo

Chocolate tasting Maraná

Ice Cream tasting Amorelado

Chocolate tasting Amaz

Bakery Andrés Ugaz

Show Cooking Ricardo Martins

Confectionery El Taller

Spoonea

Chocolate tasting Amaz Show Cooking Palmiro Ocampo

Cocoa Honey Amaz

Bakery Andrés Ugaz

Confectionery El Taller

Discuss Session

Tasting and food pairing Lucero Villagarcía

18:00

19:00

Cacao Expo Marcelo Gutierrez

Meal Experience

15:00

17:00

SUN 20Th

Harry Neira

14:00

16:00

SAT 19Th

Wellness - Creativity - Diversity Human production - Future Beer tasting Barbarian

Beer tasting Barbarian

Chocolate tasting Amaz

Pisco tasting Roca Rey

Live Music Martha Galdos

Live Music Laura Pacheco

Live Music La Lá

Live Music Martha Galdos

Tasting and food pairing Ricardo Carpio

Tasting and food pairing Lucero Villagarcía

Tasting and food pairing Melanie Asher

Tasting and food pairing Ricardo Carpio

Pisco tasting Macchu Pisco

Pisco tasting Roca Rey

Pisco tasting Macchu Pisco

Pisco tasting Roca Rey

Beer tasting Amaz

Pisco tasting Macchu Pisco

Pisco tasting Roca Rey

A publication of the Perú Export and Tourism Promotion Board - PROMPERÚ. Calle Uno Oeste N° 50, 14th floor, Urb. Córpac, San Isidro, Lima-Peru. Telephone: (51-1) 616-7300 www.promperu.gob.pe © PROMPERÚ. All rights reserved. Free distribution, not for sale. Edition: Department of Graphic and Audiovisual Production - Production Subdirectorate | PROMPERU team: Pilar Rodríguez, Gabriela Trujillo, Pamela Loli, Milagros Bustamante, Juan Carlos Taboada, Fernando López, Ebert Mendoza and Maribel Huañahue | Texts: Manolo Bonilla and Paola Miglio | Translation: Sidney Evans | Cover photo: Christian Vinces. Lima, november 2016.