Three perfect days: Lima

THREE PERFECT DAYS: LIMA Spurred in part by its world-class restaurant scene, the Peruvian capital has undergone a transformation from stopover to tourism hotspot

BY CHRIS WILSON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JESSICA SAMPLE

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DAY TWO

DAY THREE

Painted chickens at Dédalo, “fisherman’s ham” at Sonia, Museo Larco’s saucy ceramics

A perfect ham sandwich at Bar Cordano, a creepy ruin run, potent cocktails at Ayahuasca

Lurking at El Parque del Amor, the philosophy of ceviche, scruffrock at El Sargento Pimienta

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HOT TO TROT Casa Hacienda Los Ficus, a ranch renowned for its “dancing” horses

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LIMA || THREE PERFECT DAYS PERFORMANCE, ART A street act works the crowd in Plaza Mayor; right: Victor Delfín puts the finishing touches on a canvas in his studio at Second Home

ONCE A MERE STOPOVER on the way to the majestic Incan ruins of Machu Picchu, Lima has established itself as a fascinating destination in its own right.

In part, the revival of this chaotic city of 8.6 million people can be summed up in a single word: food. The Peruvian capital is fast becoming the culinary crown jewel of South America, with world-class restaurants now as commonplace as shops selling alpaca scarves.

Peru’s rich biodiversity and plentiful supply of fish, fruits, vegetables and herbs—plus a deep talent pool of local chefs—have made Lima’s ascension to the top of the foodie chain inevitable, and have helped spark a significant surge in tourism. Whether it’s the trendy bars of Miraflores, the chic galleries and shops of Barranco or the thrum of San Isidro’s financial district, Lima has never been livelier.

It wasn’t always this way. Peru’s Shining Path guerrilla movement in the 1980s and ’90s earned Lima an unsavory reputation. But, more recently, the city has been rebranded as a peaceful, accommodating modern metropolis on the rise—deservedly so. Besides its outstanding eats, Lima boasts astounding archaeological sites, top-notch cultural institutions and a vibrant nightlife scene.

That said, it’s still just a short plane ride from here to Cuzco, the mountainous region that’s home to Machu Picchu—perhaps the most stunning place on Earth and, as such, a required visit if you’re nearby.

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LIMA BY THE NUMBERS POPULATION OF METROPOLITAN LIMA, THE SIXTH-BIGGEST CITY IN SOUTH AMERICA

8.6 MILLION TONS OF ASPARAGUS SHIPPED OUT OF PERU IN 2012, MAKING IT THE WORLD’S LARGEST EXPORTER OF THE CROP

129,000 VARIETIES OF POTATO GROWN IN PERU, MORE THAN ANYWHERE ELSE ON THE PLANET

2,800 YEAR MORRIS’ BAR, WHERE CALIFORNIABORN OWNER VICTOR MORRIS INVENTED THE PISCO SOUR, OPENED IN LIMA

1916 HEIGHT, IN FEET, OF THE TALLEST HOTEL IN PERU, THE WESTIN IN SAN ISIDRO

389 NUMBER OF GOVERNMENT DISTRICTS IN LIMA, EACH OF WHICH HAS ITS OWN MAYOR

43 DAY ONE | You check in early at Hotel B, a restored 1914 mansion that opened last year in the boho-chic Barranco district.

You’re handed an oversize iron key and head upstairs to your funky suite, which happens to have a sculpture of an electric chair outside the door. You stow your bags and have an invigorating sweat in the private steam room, a er which you’re ready to face the day.

Having deposited your doorstop/key at the desk, you cross the street to Dédalo, a cra shop stocked with painted wooden chickens, stone pigs and cartoon-colorful Andean textiles. You have a quick browse and head toward the beaches along Barranco’s Pacific coast, where wetsuited surfers paddle out to catch long, steady waves while paragliders dri below pillowy clouds.

A stroll along the waterfront brings you to Second Home, local artist Victor Delfín’s workplace and gallery. For 20 sol, or about $7, you’re buzzed into a sculpture garden overrun by metal horses, lions and condors. African orange tulips li er the grass like deflated party balloons. A huge stone puma head spews water into a pool. Delfín murmurs hello as he touches up a canvas in a studio overlooking the ocean.

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You continue your dreamy march across the Bridge of Sighs—a wooden walkway where, legend has it, you’re supposed to hold your breath and make a wish before crossing—and stop by Mate, a museum owned by famed Peruvian fashion photographer Mario Testino. A gallery assistant hands you an iPod that guides you through a riotous Pop-Art retrospective featuring Keith Haring, Julian Schnabel, Richard Prince and Nate Lowman. Sipping espresso in the museum cafe’s tranquil sliver of a courtyard, you mull your first important decision of the day: where to eat lunch?

You go with Sonia, a destination for rustic seafood in the nearby suburb of Chorrillos. Sitting under a bamboo canopy, you order wooden spoons heaped with mindblowingly fresh ceviche, hunks of cured tuna known as “fisherman’s ham,” fat red crab claws crusted with Parmesan, phenomenal flounder in yellow chili sauce, and a dish of salted corn, all washed down with icy Pilsen Callao. As “My Way” plays so ly in Spanish, owner Fredy Guardia sews a fishing net at a table under one of his many poems , which adorn the walls.

A er this near-perfect meal, you drive to Pueblo Libre to visit Museo Larco, Lima’s

most intriguing and important museum.

You walk up a path bursting with bougainvillea in red, lavender, orange, yellow and pale blue, while green parrots squawk from the trees and a friendly cat negotiates your ankles. The walkway leads to a sprawling succession of spaces containing 45,000 pieces of pre-Columbian art. It’s one of only a few museums in the world with storage areas that are open to the public.

Among the artifacts on display here are ceremonial blood bowls and cracked human skulls from Incan trephination operations. If that seems a bit macabre, there is ample comic relief in the popular erotic po ery room. Here you find ancient Peruvian burial pots celebrating the art of contortionism. Many pots like these were destroyed by mortified conquistadors, which makes the exhibit as essential as it is entertaining. A er a trip back to Hotel B to freshen up—and perhaps cleanse your psyche—it’s time for dinner.

Tonight you’re eating at Maido, Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura’s temple of Nikkei cuisine, in Miraflores. The dishes come in waves: a classic usuzukuri with rock fish, ponzu, crispy garlic and tomatoes; a ceviche of mackerel, scallops, clams, smoked yellow

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LIMA || THREE PERFECT DAYS

NOT TO BE MIST It’s not exactly required that visitors see Machu Picchu, but it’s strongly recommended

MACHU, MAN No visit to Peru is complete without a trip to its most glorious ruins If you have an extra day or two to spend in Peru, hop an 80-minute flight to Cuzco, the massive and mountainous region that contains the Incan ruins of Machu Picchu. Check into the Palacio del Inka, a storied luxury hotel with a bar that features an original Incan wall and Spanish Colonial–style suites with terraces overlooking the narrow cobblestone streets of downtown Cuzco.

It’s a five-minute walk to Plaza de Armas, where you can watch women in traditional Andean garb bottle-feeding adorable baby llamas (they expect a few sol coins if you snap a picture). Drink coca-leaf tea and eat at Limo, one of the best restaurants at the Plaza. If you’re feeling fragile due to the dizzying altitude change, skip heavy fare like guinea pig confit and alpaca steak in favor of fresh sushi rolls and a green salad. Spend the rest of the day gaping at the gold- and-mirror-gilded Cuzco Cathedral and the Temple of Qorikancha’s stone ruins.

The next morning, take a PeruRail train to Machu Picchu. It’s about a four-hour trip, but the slow-moving, glass-topped cars are a great way to view the stunning mountains, rivers and cliffs rolling past. Then it’s a short bus ride to the jaw-dropping ruins, worth seeing even when clogged with tourists (though some say the only way to experience Machu Picchu is to go the night before and climb to the site just after dawn, when it’s virtually empty).

Now it’s time to tend to your stomach. If you can’t wait to venture into the nearby town of Aguas Calientes, the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge at the foot of the ruins offers a very good spread of roast pork, steak, grouper and accompaniments. After a leisurely train ride back, during which PeruRail attendants will try mightily to sell you alpaca scarves and sweaters, luxuriate at the Palacio del Inka Spa before dinner.

A more refined version of the roasted guinea pig served by many humble Cuzco stalls can be found at Map Café, a cozy glass cube inside the courtyard of the Museo de Arte Precolombino, which also offers elegant updates of Peruvian staples like corvina and pork adobo. Afterward, catch a flight back to Lima to transfer to the next leg of your trip, or better yet, stay another night in Cuzco.

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pepper “tiger’s milk” and avocado; foie gras “sushi” in eel sauce; breaded shrimp, avocado, cream cheese and chimichurri, finished tableside with a blowtorch; fried pejesapo sliders with tartar sauce on steamed buns; black cod marinated in miso and aji panca chili; and an impossibly tender Nitsuke braised short rib with fried rice.

It’s high-end Peruvian-Japanese comfort food at its finest, downed with plenty of sake and Sapporo beer and finished with an intense trio of chocolates.

You work off a small fraction of the calories consumed during a 10-minute waddle to La Emolienteria, a lively pisco bar in Miraflores. A DJ spins electronic dance music as youngsters nod rhythmically from Day-Glo stools fashioned from wheelbarrows. A er a few puckeringly good Pisco Sours made with Pisco Portón, you cab it back to the hotel. A copy of Theodore Roethke’s poem “The Waking” has been laid on your pillow: “I wake to sleep, and take my waking slow.”

You take that as a cue to knock off.

DAY TWO | You wake up feeling a little delicate, your condition accentuated by the knowledge that you’re about to drive downtown. Navigating Peru’s congested capital is a blend of white-knuckle drama and stop-start purgatory. A er an eventful hour or so zipping through a snarl of cars, mopeds, taxis and buses, you arrive at Plaza Mayor, where breakfast awaits at the wonderfully old-timey Bar Cordano, right across the street from the heavily guarded Presidential Palace.

Inside the bar, a counterman makes exquisite butifarra sandwiches, slicing cold ham prepared two ways—glazed with sugary syrup or sprinkled with extra salt—then piled on a roll under salsa criolla (onions and lemon juice). It’s as good a ham sandwich as you’re likely to have, in Lima or anywhere else. You chase it with a strong coffee from the rickety Gaggia machine and then sample one of Bar Cordano’s beautiful causas, classic Peruvian potato dishes displayed under glass like prize tarts in a Parisian bakery.

Revived, you wade through the crowds to tour the Church of San Francisco, a Spanish Baroque complex built in the mid-1500s, fla ened by an earthquake a century later and reconsecrated in 1673. Inside, gazing upon Marcos Zapata’s “Last Supper”—in which Jesus and his disciples dine on cuy, or roasted guinea pig—you are struck by the sobering thought that 75,000 bodies

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THREE PERFECT DAYS || LIMA

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SWEET AND SOUR Clockwise from top left: Peru's national drink, the Pisco Sour, made with Pisco Portón; three caballeros at Casa Hacienda Los Ficus; a fruit stand at Mercado Surquillo No. 1; a Victor Delfín statue at El Parque del Amor

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LIMA || THREE PERFECT DAYS

LIMA TIME Clockwise from top left: The freshest fish and crab stew at Sonia; a bellhop at the Country Club Lima Hotel; the Pachacamac ruins

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THREE PERFECT DAYS || LIMA are interred in the church’s cavernous stone catacombs. You hear a clicking noise, which could be someone taking pictures or a skeleton shi ing in one of the crypts.

Next, you roll down the Old PanAmerican Highway, past dusty roadside chicharrón stalls and flower shops in the Lurín Valley. Your destination is Casa Hacienda Los Ficus, a ranch owned by Fernando and Elsa Puga, who breed Peruvian Pasos—the “dancing” horses renowned for their ability to trot sideways. Luckily, you’re in time for a show, which culminates in a steed prancing alongside a woman in traditional garb to the strains of piped-in marinera music. Later, you lounge on the hacienda’s vast lawn, Pisco Sour in hand, and tuck into a rustic lunch of mashed white beans, potatoes and roast chicken.

On the way back to Lima, you stop at the Pachacamac Ruins, about half an hour south of the city. You spend an unse ling hour looping around 18 pre-Incan pyramids that sit on a patch of earth so parched and unforgiving it could be on another planet. As if the landscape weren’t forbidding enough, you learn that archaeologists recently uncovered a massive pre-Incan tomb here, which included 70 skeletons wearing false wooden heads, along with evidence of ritual human sacrifice. You snap a few pictures and beat a shuddering retreat.

After washing away the residue of sand and dread back at the hotel (and,

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

unexpectedly, passing chimp expert Jane Goodall in the lobby), you head out for dinner: a nine-course extravaganza at Central Restaurante, a short drive away in Miraflores. You pull up to an unmarked cedar door flanked by two men in dark suits. You’re ushered into the sleek, 80-seat restaurant and seated near the windowed kitchen run by revered chef Virgilio Martínez. The conceit behind the high-concept menu is a culinary voyage across four Peruvian terrains: sea, coast, Andes and Amazon.

The dishes appear rapidly, baffling in their complexity. Highlights include a sublime octopus, purple corn, olive and limón chili plate; a frozen potato puree dotted with cushuro, a fish roe–like bacteria from the Andes; raw river shrimp with Amazonian sacha inchi seeds; arapaima fish with hearts of palm; an 18-hour stewed lamb; and frozen huampo wood extract with Amazonian bahuaja nuts and a shot of maca tree sap. Each course is paired with a well-curated wine. What a trip.

It’s late, but you decide to keep the party going with elixirs of questionable provenance at Ayahuasca in Barranco, a rambling, psychedelic-themed villa that is named a er a powerful Amazonian hallucinogenic. You have one of their deceptively punchy fruit-infused pisco specials, then another, then maybe one more, then call it a night before those crazy wooden-headed skeletons start dancing again, man.

DAY THREE | You have another long day of eating and imbibing ahead, so you refrain from overindulging in the butifarras, empanadas, pies, éclairs and tarts at La Espiga de Oro bakery down the block from Hotel B. Feeling unusually healthful, you swing by Las Delicias, a gem of a juice bar in Miraflores, and sample a fresh-squeezed guanábana and lucúma combo, one of dozens of fruity mixtures available.

Bursting with vigor (and, yes, empanadas) you visit the oceanside El Parque del Amor, where couples come to sit on cuddle-friendly benches and take in the view. Lacking a co-canoodler of your own, you read the whimsical love poems displayed beside the seats with furious concentration before focusing intently on a large sculpture of a smooching couple made by Victor Delfín (he whose garden you previously enjoyed).

Having lingered in the Park of Love for as long as is reasonable, you drive to Mercado Surquillo No. 1, a traditional Peruvian market clu ered with swinging sides of beef, whole pigs, exotic fruits and teetering plastic bags filled with coca leaves and dried hot peppers. As you zigzag among the stalls, your appetite starts to assert itself again.

Fi ingly, your next stop is Chez Wong, a local institution set in the home of ChinesePeruvian chef Javier Wong. Pulling up to the reservation-only, eight-table eatery tucked away in gri y La Victoria, you buzz

THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

Mitsuharu Tsumura,

Diana Bauer,

Virgilio Martínez,

CHEF AT MAIDO

GM OF BE PERU BOUTIQUE TOUR OPERATOR

CHEF AT CENTRAL RESTAURANTE

“Go for a walk in El Malecón de Miraflores, with the sea and beautiful landscape. Look for the paragliding area and go flying over the city. Then have a nice creole breakfast at Tanta, El Chinito, La Lucha or El Farolito.”

“I recommend the Parque de la Reserva, an amazing place where you can spend a couple of hours at night delighting in the colorful magic water show. The way the water waves with the melody of the music is so beautiful.”

“If you like coffee, you have to try Bisetti in Barranco, which has fresh, single-origin coffee from all over the Peruvian Amazon.

Amazing. Malecón de los Suspiros is good for traditional desserts like picarones and suspiro a la limeña.”

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LIMA || THREE PERFECT DAYS

COT AND A HOT From left: Hotel B; Chez Wong chef Javier Wong

the 1950s. “It’s my responsibility,” Meléndez an unmarked door and are led inside. There is no menu. Wong, in trademark flat cap says, “to maintain the drink’s reputation.”

A Pisco Sour or three later (who’s countand shades, serves everyone the same twocourse meal: a Pacific flounder and octopus ing?), you clear your head at Parque El Olívar in San Isidro, a rambling grove of more than ceviche and a fish saltado, or stir-fry.

1,500 gnarled olive trees, many of which are “Ceviche is the perfection of something over a century old. It’s a calm, enchanting simple,” Wong says. You consider this bit of wisdom while inhaling a mound of spot, and you spend a happy hour wanhis fresh and flavorful signature dish. dering around enjoying the sensation of The stir-fry consists of more flounder having not a single thought in your head.

From here, you prepare to indulge thrown into a sizzling wok with red bell pepper, bok choy and mushrooms in a in one of Lima’s more decadent dining experiences: the 24-course tasting dinpisco-spiked brown sauce. The dish may ner at Astrid & Gastón, in Miraflores. This look like gloppy Chinese takeout, but it’s four-hour feast is the astoundingly good.

LIKE THREE PERFECT DAYS? keynote experience Wong, meanwhile, Get them on the go, with our free at Michelin-starred puffs a cigare e in his Three Perfect Days iPhone app chef Gastón Acurio’s tiny kitchen as flames shoot from the pan, but no one seems to flagship restaurant. The crystal chandeliers and moleskin-bound menu/historical narmind. It is, a er all, his house. rative quickly set the tone. You’re even given Next, head to Bar Inglés, at the grand Country Club Hotel in San Isidro, a CD of schmaltzy music that you can play where bartender Roberto Meléndez is later to evoke memories of your meal.

Moments a er you are seated, a miniarenowned for mixing outrageously good ture steamer trunk is opened before you, Pisco Sours—he has been serving Peru’s beloved national cocktail here since 1998. revealing an array of edible morsels that A frothy blend of pisco, lime juice, simple include salted fish with mascarpone and syrup and egg whites, the recipe for the a ham-and-fruit puff. Next comes alpaca tortellini, a guinea pig terrine, scallops in Meléndez version was passed down to him coral broth and Parmesan, yellow potato by his bartender father, who served it to gnocchi, quail with corn … it goes on like John Wayne at Lima’s fabled Hotel Maury in

this, over and over, each dish paired with a very good wine, making for one of the more pleasurable evenings you’ve spent.

Despite the risk of descending into a food-induced coma, you pluck up the energy for a final stop at El Sargento Pimienta, a barnlike club in Barranco where you can catch live shows by scruffy rock bands and jostle with mobs of Cusqueñabeer-swilling Limeños. The guys onstage, you are told, are a local outfit named Libido.

They are loud.

Later, at the hotel, you find that an artshow party next door has spilled into the bar. Oh, go on, you think, why not? The bartender pours you a house special, a bracing G&T served in a small fishbowl, as a Spanish version of Nancy Sinatra’s “Bang Bang” lulls you into a pleasing stupor.

That was fun, but you’re happy to be up in your room, burying your head in a fat pillow. You think of Morrissey, the altpop idol who came to Lima last year and, in typical style, described the city as “my heart’s lighthouse.” Hmm, you think, and then you are gone.

Writer CHRIS WILSON hasn’t had a Pisco Sour since he left Peru, but he’s still seeing those dancing wooden-headed skeletons.

BOARDING PASS Whether you’re looking for archaeological wonders or all the modern marvels of a resurgent city, Lima offers something for everyone. United can take you there with nonstop service from its U.S. hubs at Houston and New York/Newark. Before your trip, reduce the climate-change footprint of your travel using United’s carbon offsets program, which supports Conservation International’s forest protection efforts in Peru and benefits local communities in the country’s Alto Mayo region. Learn more at united.com/offsets.

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DAY ONE

Museo Larco

Hotel B

1515 Avenida Bolivar, Pueblo Libre; Tel. 011-51-461-1312

301 Avenida San Martín, Saenz Peña, Barranco; Tel. 011-51-206-0800 Dédalo

295 Paseo Sáenz Peña, Barranco; Tel. 011-51-652-5400 Second Home

366 Domeyer, Barranco; Tel. 011-51-247-5522 Bridge of Sighs

Barranco Mate Museo Mario Testino

409 Avenida Pedro de Osma, Barranco; Tel. 011-51-251-7755 Sonia

173 Jirón Agustín Lozano Santa Rosa, Chorrillos; Tel. 011-51-249-6850

Maido

399 Calle San Martín, Miraflores; Tel. 011-51-446-2512

Lurín Valley, Casa Hacienda Los Ficus Pachacamac Ruins

Miraflores; Lurín Valley, 15 minutes south Tel. 011-51-222-0104 of Lima; Tel. 011-51-444-4022 El Parque del Amor Pachacamac Ruins El Malecón, Miraflores Mercado Surquillo No. 1 Km 31 Old Pan-American Paseo de la República, Hwy., half an hour south of block 53 Lima; Tel. 011-51-430-0168 Casa Hacienda Los Ficus

Central Restaurante

376 Calle Santa Isabel, 598 Avenida Diagonal, Bajada Miraflores; Balta 018, Miraflores; Tel. 011-51-242-8515 Ayahuasca Restobar Tel. 011-51-446-3431 130 Avenida Prolongación San Martin, Barranco; DAY TWO Plaza Mayor Tel. 011-51-981-044-745 Jirón Huallaga Bar Cordano 202 Jirón Ancash; DAY THREE La Espiga de Oro Bakery Tel. 011-51-427-0181 901 Avenida Almirante Miguel Presidential Palace Grau, Barranco; Plaza Mayor Church of San Francisco Tel. 011-51-247-4919 Las Delicias 471 Jirón Lampa y Ancash; Calle Ignacio Merino 505, Tel. 011-51-426-7377 La Emolienteria

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Dédalo Hotel B El Sargento Pimienta Second Home Ayahuasca Restobar Bridge of Sighs

Chez Wong

114 Calle Enrique León García; Tel. 011-51-470-6217 Bar Inglés

590 Los Eucaliptos, San Isidro; Tel. 011-51-611-9000 Parque El Olívar

Avenida Los Incas, between Choquehuanca and Arce Astrid & Gastón 175 Calle Cantuarias, Miraflores; Tel. 011-51-242-5387 El Sargento Pimienta

757 Avenida Bolognesi, Barranco; Tel. 011-51-247-9096

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