Wales View 2012 - Rest Of World

WalesView

The Wales Coast Path: a world first Welsh food, the Jamie Oliver way The 2012 Olympics come to Wales The Nature of Wales with Kate Humble Plus travel and holiday information –– www.visitwales.com

contents Wales View

W

e all love a pleasant surprise and it seems to be a recurring theme in the 2012 edition of Wales View.

Jamie Oliver, the TV chef and entrepreneur, found a wonderful world of Welsh food he knew nothing about. Kate Humble, presenter of nature programmes on BBC TV, says she’s become an evangelist for the country she now calls home.

Other elements of the magazine that might surprise you include the fact that this year, Wales becomes the first country in the world to open a dedicated path running along its entire coast – the Wales Coast Path. Wales also has a significant part to play in the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games.

The challenge of producing this magazine is to make some sense of it all; and in the case of our more eccentric attractions – the World Bog Snorkelling Championships and our annual Elvis Festival – making a nonsense of it.

We’ve highlighted the range of music and arts festivals staged in Wales throughout the year, illustrated the country’s growing reputation as a mouth-watering destination for food lovers, and presented countless opportunities to explore the history and heritage of this ancient (but extremely well-preserved) land.

What we can’t tell you about are all those other pleasant surprises awaiting you when you visit our country. You’ll just have to find those out for yourselves.

Visit Wales cannot guarantee the accuracy or reliability of the information in this publication and hereby disclaim any responsibility for any error, omission or misrepresentation.

To the fullest extent permitted by law all liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or other damage caused by reliance on the information contained in this guide is excluded.

You are advised to check all details and information with the business concerned before confirming a reservation.

All rights reserved. Material in this publication must not be reproduced in any form without permission from the copyright owners – please contact Visit Wales. Opinions expressed in Wales View are not necessarily those of Visit Wales.

02

Wales 2012 Events Diary Much eating, much drinking and much merriment with eight pages of highlights taking place across Wales this year.

10

The 2012 Olympics in Wales Welsh Olympians past and present give the inside track on their favourite places in Wales.

14

The Wales Coast Path Wales claims a world first as the only country to have a path alongside its entire coast.

22

Jamie Oliver’s Wales The TV chef and entrepreneur seeks out some of Wales’ finest food secrets.

28

Nature Watch, with Kate Humble The TV presenter’s love affair with nature in her adopted country.

2

40

22

Wales View is published by Visit Wales, the Tourism and Marketing division of the Welsh Government ©2012.

Visit Wales, Welsh Government, QED Centre, Main Avenue, Treforest Industrial Estate, Treforest, Pontypridd CF37 5YR

Managing Editor Iestyn George Designed by Escape To... Design Printed by Stephens & George

(WG13595)

ISBN: 978 0 7504 6762 9

Photography © Crown copyright (2012) Visit Wales and © Crown copyright (2012) Welsh Government Other photography Aberystwyth Arts Centre / Janet Baxter / Lesley Brankin / David Roberts Photography / Eisteddfod yr Urdd / fforest / Anne Howarth / David Loftus / Oak Frame Company Ltd. / Heathcliff O’Malley / Chris Pritchard / Rhondda Heritage Park / RSPB-images.com / Scholastic / Brian Tarr / wowfilmfestival.com

33 48

14

37 I

Horrible Histories of Wales Tales of dragons, wild women and the end of the world as we know it.

37

Stay Somewhere Different From castles, to railway carriages, we present some of the more unusual places to stay in Wales.

40

Music Festivals Songwriter and performer Gruff Rhys explores some of Wales’ music festival highlights.

44

Art in Wales From the biggest arts prize in Wales to the best galleries and craft centres in the country.

48

Useful Information Travel information, free brochures, FAQ’s and other useful Visit Wales websites.

52

Map of Wales A useful map to help you find out how to get around our small, but perfectly-formed country.

II

I

I I

I

52

I

44

I

I I II I II I

I I I

I

II I IIII I

II

33

I I

I This I publication is also I II available in Braille, large-format print, and / or audio from Visit Wales: 0800 915 6568 info@visitwales.co.uk

28

I II I I

I

10

www.visitwales.com 1 I

I

I I I II

Wales Events Diary 2012 There are world-renowned annual events and there are strange little happenings.

There are family events, sports activities and celebrations. There is also much singing and dancing to be had. In fact, short of a knitting master class hosted by a family of polar bears living in Pantperthog, there’s nothing more you could want for in terms of entertainment during 2012.

01. Six Nations Rugby 02. Wales One World Film Festival 03. Prestatyn & Clwydian Range Walking Festival 04. Saturnalia Beer Festival & Chariot Race 05. Quiltfest, Llangollen 06. Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza

01

2 www.visitwales.com

02

03

04

14th & 15th January Saturnalia Beer Festival & Chariot Race, Llanwrtyd Wells Saturnalia was the major Roman festival held annually in December and January each year.

In this version, participants are encouraged to wear Roman dress, eat Roman food, quaff fine ales and party with friends. You could even try Mountain Bike Chariot Racing! www.green-events.co.uk 1st – 12th February Quiltfest, Llangollen Anything and everything to do with quilt making: exhibitions, competition, demonstrations and workshops. www.quiltfest.org.uk

05

8th – 10th February Ffresh Student Moving Image Festival of Wales, Newport A premiere of short films, created by young filmmakers, which reflect contemporary Wales – including its people, communities, areas and events. www.ffresh.com 12th February The Six Nations, Wales v Scotland, Cardiff The Millennium Stadium in Cardiff hosts the first of its Rugby Union international matches against Scotland as part of the Six Nations Rugby Competition.

To be followed by games against Italy and France in March. www.millenniumstadium.com 1st March St David’s Day Parade Across Wales on 1st March St David’s Day parades take place, and in bigger towns and cities look out for food festivals, concerts and street parties. http://stdavidsday.org

16th – 29th March Wales One World Film Festival, Cardiff & Aberystwyth Wales One World explores the edges of contemporary global cinema and gives audiences the chance to celebrate world cinema in all its richness and diversity. www.wowfilmfestival.com 13th – 15th April The Laugharne Weekend, Laugharne A weekend of celebrations set in poet Dylan Thomas’s Carmarthenshire bolt hole, showcasing the best in Welsh culture and literature. www.thelaugharneweekend.com 20th – 22nd April RHS Flower Show, Cardiff See the best in Welsh horticulture in the magnificent parklands of Cardiff Castle. www.rhs.org.uk/cardiff 28th & 29th April Wonderwool Wales, Builth Wells A fun and fibre-packed weekend that includes displays, workshops and demonstrations. www.wonderwoolwales.co.uk 5th – 7th May Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza, Llandudno This famous seaside resort returns to its roots to celebrate its Victorian heritage. www.victorian-extravaganza.co.uk 18th – 20th May Prestatyn & Clwydian Range Walking Festival Family treasure hunts, walks through the woods and along the coast, a variety of themed historical walks. There are also exhibitions, displays and a themed talk and presentation. www.prestatynwalkingfestival. co.uk

06 www.visitwales.com 3

07. Celtic Manor Wales Open 08. Man v Horse Marathon 09. Welsh Perry & Cider Festival 10. Beaumaris Arts Festival 11. Woodfest Wales 12. The Big Cheese 13. Urdd National Eisteddfod

07 08

31st May – 3rd June The Celtic Manor Wales Open, Newport A leading event on the European Tour attracting some of the world’s top golfers, watch them play on the Twenty Ten course, designed for The 2010 Ryder Cup. www.walesopen.com 31st May – 7th June Beaumaris Arts Festival, Anglesey This week long event in Beaumaris is the perfect setting for an arts festival. Events include classical music and jazz performances, talks, theatrical events, poetry readings, art exhibitions and competitions. www.beaumarisfestival.com

4 www.visitwales.com

1st – 4th June Welsh Perry and Cider Festival, near Abergavenny It’s a festival of the taste buds, where you can combine some of Britain’s best ciders and perry with great food. www.welshcider.co.uk 2nd – 5th June Woodfest Wales, St Asaph A celebration of all things wood. Step back in time and see craftsmen and women demonstrating crafts and skills – creating beautiful, fascinating and functional art, sculptures, objects, buildings and more. www.woodfestwales.co.uk

4th – 9th June Urdd National Eisteddfod, Snowdonia One of the largest cultural youth festivals in Europe, and in 2012 it will be held near Caernarfon. It celebrates the best talent in song, dance, drama and design. www.urdd.org/eisteddfod 9th June Man v Horse Marathon, Llanwrtyd Wells A unique marathon of 22 miles (35 km) through spectacular countryside where runners and horses compete against each other, sometimes with the horse winning by only a few seconds. www.green-events.co.uk

23rd June – 1st July Pembrokeshire Fish Week, various locations For a small county, it’s a whopper of a festival! Fish Week has more than 250 events celebrating the county’s great seafood and beautiful coastline. Learn to fly-fish, go crab catching, tuck into the freshest seafood, get digging in a sandcastle challenge, and much more. www.pembrokeshirefishweek. co.uk 28th June – 3rd July Ruthin Festival, Ruthin An outstanding variety of nonstop music, from traditional folk to classical, as well as the best from the world of jazz and popular music. www.ruthinfestival.co.uk

09

10

12

8th July Cardigan Bay Seafood Festival, Aberaeron Aberaeron Harbour provides the backdrop for this showcase of local fish and seafood. Sample the best fresh local produce while at the same time being entertained with music and folk dancing. www.aberaeron.info/seafood 16th – 28th July Gower Festival, Gower The churches along the Gower become intimate concert venues as this festival brings the very best in music to this beautiful peninsula. www.gowerfestival.org

19th – 27th July Wrexham Science Festival, Wrexham This is an exciting mix of free events to challenge people’s thinking about science. With an all-star cast of science experts, comedians and interactive events, there’s something to suit everyone. www.wrexhamsf.com 23rd – 26th July Royal Welsh Show, Builth Wells This popular agricultural show isn’t just about cows and Combine Harvesters. With live music, stunt displays, crafts stalls, great food and a host of other attractions, you don’t have to be a farmer (or Welsh) to enjoy this event. www.rwas.co.uk

11

13

27th & 28th July Really Wild Food Festival, St Davids Held within sight of the sea and the ancient Cathedral of St Davids, this festival is a ‘celebration of food and countryside crafts originating from the wild’. It encourages people to get out into the countryside and forage for ingredients for their supper. www.reallywildfestival.co.uk 27th & 28th July Prestatyn Flower Show, Prestatyn This annual show is held in the Vicarage Gardens, Prestatyn, in beautiful North Wales. With awardwinning exhibits, classic cars, live jazz and brass band music. www.prestatynflowershow.co.uk

27th – 29th July Big Cheese Festival, Caerphilly Street entertainers, living history encampments, music, dance, traditional funfair, folk dancing, falconry, fire eating, minstrels, troubadours and much more, all set around Caerphilly Castle, one of the largest in Europe. www.caerphilly.gov.uk/bigcheese 28th July International Snowdon Race, Snowdonia One of Europe’s toughest endurance challenges, this race involves running a steep five-mile (8 km) track up and down the highest summit in Wales and England. www.snowdonrace.co.uk www.visitwales.com 5

14. Aberaeron Festival of Welsh Ponies and Cobs 15. O rchid Festival National Botanic Garden of Wales 16. I ronman Wales 17. Abergavenny Food Festival 18. W orld Bog Snorkelling Championships

14

15

July/August Cardiff Summer Festival, Cardiff A summer party and the UK’s largest free outdoor festival. For a month, the capital comes alive with street theatre, live music, comedy, drama and funfairs. www.cardiff-festival.com 12th August Aberaeron Festival of Welsh Ponies & Cobs, Aberaeron This is an action packed day full of excitement with thrilling displays of scurry driving, relay and a pageant. Stalls selling local food produce and other goodies will be aplenty. www.aberaeronfestival.co.uk

6 www.visitwales.com

14th – 16th August Pembrokeshire County Show, Pembrokeshire The biggest county show in Wales is also one of the very best of its kind in Britain. Whether your interest is in cars, food, clothes or animals – there is something for you. www.pembsshow.org 18th August Town Crier Festival, Knighton This year will be the 10th Anniversary of an event where dozens of loud-mouthed men and women travel the length and breadth of Britain for the chance to take part and be crowned the winner. www.visitknighton.co.uk/ towncrierfestival.htm

18th – 26th August Conwy River Festival, Conwy If jaunty sailing boats with bright red sails are your thing then this week of yacht racing and cruising is definitely for you. Even if it isn’t, there are plenty of shorebased activities to entertain you.

Ever fancied dressing up as a pirate? www.conwyriverfestival.org

26th August World Bog Snorkelling Championship, Llanwrtyd Wells Daring (some may say mad) competitors will battle it out for the coveted title of World Champion Bog Snorkeller. This has to be the dirtiest water sport of the year! www.green-events.co.uk

23rd – 27th August Wales Seniors Open, Conwy A host of fine golfers take on one of the most respected links courses in the land. If the wind bites, watch these flinty competitors at their very best. www.conwygolfclub.com

1st & 2nd September Barry Tall Ship Festival, Barry Ahoy there! Expect tall ships, fairground rides, craft stalls, street entertainers, live bands and more. www.valeofglamorgan.gov.uk

1st & 2nd September Orchid Festival, National Botanic Garden of Wales This festival features specialist nurseries from the UK as well as Europe, as well as talks and demonstrations from award-winning orchid growers. www.onebiggarden.com 13th – 16th September Wales Rally GB Watch the world’s elite drivers take on the world’s toughest forestry tracks up in the Mid Wales mountains, and thrill the crowds at the special stage in Cardiff Bay. www.walesrallygb.com

16

15th & 16th September Abergavenny Food Festival, Abergavenny Tickle your taste buds at one of the biggest events on the UK foodie calendar. Local produce and international delicacies, celebrity chefs, masterclasses, tastings and street stalls are all on the menu. www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com

17

16th September Ironman Wales, various locations in Pembrokeshire A 2.4 mile (3.8 km) swim and a 112 mile (180 km) cycle, followed by a marathon, with just 17 hours to complete it all. Just an average Sunday really. www.ironmanwales.com 22nd – 29th September Tenby Arts Festival, Tenby Celebrating all the arts, this festival is an interesting mix of music, drama, poetry, talks, a writing competition and ‘Tenby’s Got Talent’. www.tenbyartsfest.co.uk

18

24th & 25th September Great British Cheese Festival, Cardiff Cardiff Castle is the dramatic setting for this festival, so if you love fabulous food and good fun then join thousands of fellow foodies at Britain’s biggest cheese market and sample Sheep, Cow, Goat and even Buffalo cheeses along with artisan wine, cider, perry and beer. www.greatbritishcheesefestival.co.uk www.visitwales.com 7

28th – 30th September Elvis Festival, Porthcawl Put on your blue suede shoes, grow sideburns and do the Jailhouse Rock. Elvis lives on, thanks to the fans and the tribute artists who attend this annual gathering. www.elvies.co.uk September – November Artes Mundi, Cardiff A 12-week exhibition at the National Museum of Art in Cardiff, featuring work from shortlisted artists from across the world. www.artesmundi.org 6th & 7th October Erddig Apple Festival, Wrexham Features more varieties of apples than you could shake an orchard at. Plus cider tasting to help celebrate the harvest. www.nationaltrust.org.uk 10th – 14th October Iris Prize Festival, Cardiff Cardiff plays host to four days of the best of the best in new filmmaking talent, the gay short film Oscars. www.irisprize.org 12th – 14th October Snowdonia Walking Festival, Betws-y-Coed Guided walks taking in forests, lakes and mountains. From three mile (4.8 km) strolls for beginners through to all-day treks for the more experienced mountain walker. www.snowdoniawalkingfestival. co.uk

8 www.visitwales.com

13th & 14th October Anglesey Oyster & Shellfish Festival, Anglesey Starting as an annual informal event where locals would gather to eat oysters and get merry, this event now attracts thousands of visitors each year. Enjoy chef demonstrations, taste Welsh products and sample Anglesey’s famous oysters. www.angleseyoysterfestival.com 27th & 28th October Cowbridge Food and Drink Festival, Cowbridge A real vibrancy takes over the bustling market town of Cowbridge when this established event is in town. Along with the usual mix of exhibitors, chef demonstrations and talks, you’ll find marquees devoted to the timeless coupling of wine and cheese, and to the decadent drink that is Champagne. www.cowbridgefoodanddrink.org 27th & 28th October Gwledd Conwy Feast, Conwy The Conwy Feast takes place over two days and is now one of the largest and most successful in Wales. With a myriad of choice from local food producers and retailers on hand for you to try (and buy), plus cooking demonstrations and much more. www.conwyfeast.co.uk 27th October – 9th November The Dylan Thomas Festival, Swansea Dylan Thomas’s home town pays annual homage to the great poet as it showcases talent from Wales and beyond, in this multiarts celebration of Swansea’s most famous son. www.dylanthomas.com

19

20

19. Angelsey Oyster & Shellfish Festival 20. Elvis Festival 21. Merthyr Mawr Christmas Pudding Race 22. Mid Wales Beer Festival 23. Cardiff Winter Wonderland 24. The Dylan Thomas Festival

21

24

16th – 25th November Mid Wales Beer Festival, Llanwrtyd Wells This 10-day beer-sampling event includes the Real Ale Wobble (on mountain bikes) and the Real Ale Ramble (on foot). www.green-events.co.uk

22

Mid November onwards Cardiff Winter Wonderland and Swansea Waterfront Wonderland Ice-skating and rides, mulled wine and roasted chestnuts... feel good festivities in Cardiff and Swansea’s Christmas villages. www.cardiffswinterwonderland. com www.swanseachristmas.com Throughout December Santa Steam Specials Meet Santa Claus on weekend rides on Wales’s narrow-gauge ‘Great Little Trains of Wales’. www.greatlittletrainsofwales.co.uk

23

16th December Merthyr Mawr Christmas Pudding Race, Merthyr Mawr Fancy running up and down sand dunes, off road rough moorland, and crossing several streams towards the finish line? This is the Pudding Race, an annual Christmas tradition that draws runners from far and wide. www.bracklaharriers.co.uk 31st December Nos Galan Road Races, Mountain Ash This three-mile (5 km) race, which commemorates the Welsh runner Guto Nyth Brân, is held annually on New Year’s Eve in Mountain Ash, South Wales.

Look out for the mystery celebrity runner. www.nosgalan.co.uk

Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy in this events listing. All dates and information were checked at the time of going to press. Visit Wales cannot be held accountable for any change to this information. www.visitwales.com 9

Cefn Sidan Beach, Carmarthenshire

Dates for your diary for the 2012 Olympics in Wales.

4th March Music Nation Celebration Concert in Cardiff, featuring the BBC National Orchestra of Wales.

25-30th MaY The Olympic Torch Relay travels through Wales.

25th JulY The first football match of the Olympic football tournament at Cardiff’s Millennium Stadium.

Caban Coch Dam, Elan Valley, Mid Wales

View of Sugar Loaf Mountain, Brecon Beacons

Where Olympians Are Made…

Wales has produced great Olympic athletes, not least because we have enviable training facilities created by nature. You don’t have to pull on a pair of running shoes to enjoy them for yourself.

Dai Greene: his first sporting ambition was to be as good as Manchester United and Wales footballer Ryan Giggs. Chances are Giggsy now wants to be as good as Dai Greene, World, Commonwealth and European Champion at 400 hurdles.

“I was born and raised in Felinfoel, near Llanelli, in West Wales and I always find myself being drawn to the coast. The Millennium Coastal Park runs for 10 miles (16 km) along the Burry Estuary. Cefn Sidan sands offer 7 miles (11 km) of broad, sandy beach – an incredible setting for a training run, or just a relaxing stroll.” www.southwestwales.info

Lynn Davies: ‘Lynn The Leap’ was born in the village of Nantymoel in the Ogmore Valley and he did indeed leap further than any other, to win Gold in the Long Jump at the 1964 Olympics.

“Like so many other athletes before and after me, I used to head for the beaches of the Vale of Glamorgan and the dunes at Merthyr Mawr. Discovered by the great Australian middle distance coach Percy Cerutty, and used by the world mile record holder and Olympic gold medallist, Herb Elliot, the ‘Big Dipper’ quickly became one of Wales’s worst kept secrets.” www.southernwales.com

Geraint Thomas: won Olympic Cycling Gold in the 2008 Olympics and has become a key figure in the most successful era for British cycling.

“It’s great to be riding through France on Le Tour, but I love coming home to my old stomping ground. I grew up riding on the hills in Wales and you really can’t beat some of the roads and scenery for training or racing.

The hills around Glyn Tarell, Llyswen Hill and Storey Arms in the Brecon Beacons hold really fond memories.” www.exploremidwales.com

Richard Meade: to compete in five Olympic Games is a rare achievement. To win a Gold medal in 1968 and two more in 1972 makes the Monmouthshire equestrian icon arguably the greatest Welsh Olympian.

“I did a lot of training in Abergavenny with the magnificent Sugar Loaf Mountain as a backdrop. It was the grounding I received at home in Wales that set me on the road to become an Olympic champion. I have very fond memories of those days and retain very vivid images in my mind.” www.exploremidwales.com

Tanni Grey-Thompson: Great Britain’s most successful Paralympian Tanni won 11 Gold, four Silver and one Bronze medal in five Paralympic Games.

“I mostly trained in the centre of Cardiff.

There are more picturesque places to train in Wales, but Cardiff is a vibrant place with great history and more parkland areas than any other British city. I also used to train in Cardiff Bay, which has undergone a huge transformation over the past couple of decades, and on the roads to Cowbridge in the Vale of Glamorgan.” www.visitcardiff.com www.southernwales.com

Kirsty Wade: a double Olympian in 1988 and 1992 Kirsty was born in Scotland. But as she happily admits, her heart belongs to Wales.

“I moved to Llandrindod Wells when I was three and used to train in Happy Valley, where there were some brilliant runs, down near Talgarth and in the Elan Valley. I always loved the sensation of being able to have such gloriously uninterrupted views wherever I looked around. It was, and always will be, a magical part of Wales and my life.” www.exploremidwales.com

Nathan Stephens: senior javelin champion and world record holder at the IPC World Athletics Championship of 2011, Nathan never sits still in his wheelchair for long as he aims for Paralympic gold in 2012.

“A lot of my life revolves around competition and training, but outside of athletics I’m a keen surfer and I love getting in the sea. There are so many great spots – places like Monknash, in the Vale of Glamorgan, and Rest Bay in Porthcawl or down the Gower.” www.southernwales.com www.southwestwales.info Steve Brace: a winner of both Berlin and Paris marathons, Steve represented Great Britain in the 1992 and 1996 Olympics.

“Although I used to do most of my training around my home in Bridgend, South Wales, I love the stunning scenery of North Wales.

The Commonwealth Mountain and Ultra Distance Championships were held in North Wales in September 2011. The mountain race at Llanberis, and the trail race through the Newborough Forest were absolutely stunning.

The athletes had their breath taken away by the iconic landscapes.” www.visitnorthwales.co.uk www.eryri-npa.gov.uk Steve Barry: a race walker who relentlessly pounded the streets around Cardiff, the Welsh capital, Steve competed for Great Britain in the 1984 Olympics.

“My favourite destination to get away from it all then, as now, is Kidwelly, on Carmarthen Bay. From there we visit places like Laugharne, Saundersfoot and Tenby. It has become more than a second home because it is simply a wonderfully warm, welcoming and beautiful part of the world.” www.southwestwales.info

www.visitwales.com 11

FUN AND GAMES AT A...

Welsh Olympiad

What with the medals being manufactured at the Royal Mint in Llantrisant and having been chosen to host the first event of the 2012 Olympics, it got us wondering how things might turn out if we took over the entire operation…

01

Bog-snorkelling Wales has contributed many curious innovations to the world of sport over the years. But The World Bog-Snorkelling Championships that takes place every August in Llanwrtyd Wells tops the lot. Competitors race along a 50 metre (164ft) trench built in a peat bog. Such is the events popularity that two other events – The Bog Snorkelling Triathlon and the World Mountain Bike Bog Snorkelling Championships – have been introduced into the annual rota of events hosted at this Mid-Walian Mecca of unusual sports.

Sporting pedigree: unique. Persuading the International Olympic Committee to add it to their list of sports might be a challenge.

Visit www.green-events.co.uk to find out more about the variety of events taking place in Llanwrtyd Wells.

02

Rugby Union There’s a lot more to sport in Wales than rugby, but an international weekend in Cardiff is an experience of a lifetime, whoever you happen to support.

The relationship between this sport and the Olympics has been a turbulent one, with the rugby being dropped from the list of Olympic sports after violent scenes in 1924.

And that was off the pitch! Wales played a significant part in the recent charm-offensive that resulted in the reintroduction of the seven-aside version of the game to the Rio de Janeiro Olympiad in 2016.

Sporting pedigree: unquestionable. The team reached the semi-final of the 2011 Rugby World Cup – and the supporters never fail to have a good time, whatever the result.

To find out more about rugby events in Wales, visit www.rbs6nations.com, www.ercrugby.com, www.wru.co.uk and www.millenniumstadium.com

03

Golf One of the things that makes golf so

12 www.visitwales.com

Coasteering in Pembrokeshire.

appealing is the variety of different places you can play the game. Wales has over 200 golf courses, from links tracks hugging its shores to clubs perched precariously on top of mountains. In 2010, Wales hosted The Ryder Cup, one of the most popular sporting events on the global sporting calendar, at The Celtic Manor Resort, just a few minutes’ drive from the Severn Bridge crossing between England and Wales.

Sporting pedigree: excellent.

Particularly as the sport is being introduced to the Olympic itinerary in 2016. To find the perfect golf break to suit you, visit www.golfasitshouldbe.com and to see some of Europe’s finest golfers in action at The Celtic Manor Wales Open visit www.celtic-manor.com

04

Mountain Biking What’s that they say about good things coming to those who wait? Wales in its current geological form is around 9,000 years

old, but it took approximately 8,960 of those years before someone invented the mountain bike. The sport has grown fast and Wales has rightly earned its reputation as a fantastic natural playground for mountain biking. We’ve even started raising our own champions.

Manon Carpenter, from Caerphilly, on the outskirts of Cardiff became Junior Downhill World Champion in 2011: “There are great places to ride everywhere in Wales. I only have to step out of my front door.”

Sporting pedigree: outstanding. The only question is, what took you so long?

Visit www.mbwales.com for a comprehensive guide to mountain biking in Wales.

05

Man v Horse Marathon Nobody can deny that watching the fastest men on the planet vying for athletic immortality in a race lasting less than 10 seconds is pretty exciting. But it does lack a certain something. A horse, perhaps.

The annual Man v Horse marathon came

Man v Horse Marathon, and mountain biking in the Brecon Beacons.

The 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games in Wales

Below: Golf at The Celtic Manor Resort.

06 to life in 1980 after the landlord of the Neuadd Arms Hotel in the mid Wales town of Llanwrtyd Wells overheard two men arguing about the relative athletic merits of the equine and the human.

The course is roughly 22 miles (35 km) long and climbs 915 metres (3,000ft) into the glorious moorland above the town.

Sporting pedigree: one-sided. This test of human endeavour is in true Olympian spirit, but there have only been two two-legged winners in over 30 years of competition.

Just imagine trying to get the horse to the top of the podium... For a host of walking, racing and beer-related activities, visit www.green-events.co.uk

Coasteering Much as surfing harnesses the natural energy of the waves, coasteering is a sport that puts you right in the middle of the ‘impact zone’ when tidal waters collide with coastal rocks. It involves climbing, jumping from cliff edges and swimming in some fairly turbulent water – and the coast of Wales provides the perfect playground for this fastgrowing activity.

Great for thrill-seekers though it may be, is there such as thing as competitive coasteering? Yes there, is. Coasteering is often included as one of the disciplines of Adventure Races, alongside cross-country running, mountain biking and climbing.

Sporting pedigree: exhilarating. A natural alternative to synchronised swimming and pool diving, although spectators might need to be kitted out in wetsuits and buoyancy aids. Check out www.visitwales.com for more information on coasteering.

The London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games are the world’s greatest sporting event, but the celebrations won’t just be in London.

Wales will be hosting part of the Olympic Football tournament at Cardiff’s Millennium Stadium. The first match kicks off in Cardiff on the 25th July making it the first event of the Games. You can also watch the action on the Live Site outdoor screens in Cardiff and Swansea.

The Olympic Torch Relay will be travelling through Wales between 25th and 30th May. It’s an exciting free opportunity to be part of the Olympic celebrations and to enjoy some of our most spectacular landmarks and World Heritage Sites at the same time. During its journey through Wales the Olympic torch will be visiting Big Pit National Coal Museum and Caerphilly Castle, carried by a Cob horse in Aberaeron, travelling by train to the top of Mount Snowdon and taken on a handrawn boat along Pontcysyllte Aqueduct near Wrexham. There will be evening celebrations as it stops for the night in Cardiff (25th May), Swansea (26th May), Aberystwyth (27th May) and Bangor (28th May), and there will be celebrations around the lighting of the Paralympic Torch in Cardiff on 27th August.

Wales will also be hosting a series of spectacular cultural events as part of the London 2012 Festival and offering the chance to enjoy a series of musical concerts, special exhibitions and other surprise performances at many of the castles, historic places and arts venues across Wales.

See www.visitwales.com and www.london2012.com for up to date information on the route of the Torch Relays, tickets for the Football matches and details of many events taking place in Wales in 2012. www.visitwales.com 13

Writer and walker David Atkinson straps on his boots for a taste of three must-walk sections of the newly completed Wales Coast Path.

enlightenment the path to

W

hen you start work on a particularly elaborate jigsaw, the common advice is to begin by fitting the pieces on the outside of the picture. This is pretty much what’s happened along the coast of Wales over the past few years. This year Wales can claim a world first as the only country to have a path around its entire coast.

The 870-mile (1,400 km) Wales Coast Path, which officially opens in May this year, is backed by the Welsh Government, and runs from Queensferry in the North Wales Borderlands to Chepstow in the far southeast.

According to Environment Minister John Griffiths, “The Wales Coast Path will help to attract more visitors to our stunning coastline and provide a real boost to the Welsh economy. It will also encourage visitors and locals alike to get out and enjoy Wales’ beautiful coast.”

The project will improve access to the coastline for all kinds of walkers, from families to hard-core hikers, enabling ramblers to walk around the whole outline of Wales.

If that seems a little daunting then worry not. We’re not actually expecting you to wear out your walking shoes when you visit Wales. Previously, long-distance coastal paths, such as the Isle of Anglesey Coastal Path and the Ceredigion Coast Path, covered around 60 percent of the Welsh coastline. The Wales Coast Path project connects these existing paths to form a continuous circuit and, crucially, to make the coast more accessible to a wide range of visitors.

The good news is that many sections of the Wales Coast Path are easy to tackle as day walks, often with good public transport connections. The variety of sections also lend themselves to different interests and abilities.

More from: www.ccw.gov.uk www.visitwales.com

FOR FAMILIES The North Wales Path How far? 60 miles / 90 km Where? Prestatyn to Bangor What’s it like? Wales’ north coast may be more closely associated with buckets and spades than boots and Gore-Tex, but one of the last sections to link up to the Coast Path is introducing a new generation of walkers to the beauty of the north.

14 www.visitwales.com

For little legs, the eastern leg offers gentler slopes and takes in some of the traditional seaside resorts of the north.

Starting at the intersection of the Offa’s Dyke National Trail, the Prestatyn Dyserth Way, a former railway line, takes the zigzag path into Rhyl. It then hugs the coast through Abergele to reach Llanddulas, where it plunges inland to meander the rolling hills of rural Conwy for a few miles.

The path rejoins the Wales Coast Path by coming down through the back streets of Old Colwyn, leading visitors on through Colwyn Bay and Rhos-on-Sea to Llandudno, the renaissance-Victorian town described by the American author Bill Bryson as his “favourite seaside resort.” From the high points, you can gaze across the brooding summits of the Snowdonia National Park.

After cresting the impressive limestone headlands of the Little Orme and Great Orme, either side of Llandudno Bay, an old-school family day out at the seaside is the perfect way to wind down from your walk. Don’t miss Professor Codman’s Punch and Judy show, stuffing small change in the slot machines on the pier and rounding off the day with a slap-up fish supper at Fish Tram Chips. The cod special, including mushy peas and a pot of tea, costs just £8 – bargain!

If you’re still feeling energetic, the path continues further west along an upland stretch through the foothills of the Carneddau Mountains, where you will be walking along ancient routes dotted with mystical stone circles and Medieval settlements, the domain of bygone communities.

In the spring listen out for skylarks, meadow pipits, stonechats and choughs, and look out for the mountain ponies as they roam free in the open landscape.

Generations of families have taken their holidays near here but few probably realised how close they were to nature.

What the expert says: Jenny Towill, Coastal Access Officer says: “Before reaching Bangor, the North Wales Path takes a dip down into the Aber Falls National Nature Reserve and leads past the 120ft spectacle of Aber Falls. This renowned beauty spot is a perfect place to enjoy a picnic whilst cooling your feet in one of the picturesque pools – a perfect way to end a hard day of walking.”

More from: www.walkingnorthwales.co.uk www.visitnorthwales.co.uk

Point of Ayr Lighthouse, Talacre Beach, North Wales.

FOR HERITAGE LOVERS Glamorgan Heritage Coast Path How far? 14 miles / 22 km Where? Porthcawl to Aberthaw What’s it like? Glamorgan’s heritage-rich coastline, one of the first three Heritage Coasts designated in the early Seventies, may not be the most instantly familiar to ramblers. But keen-eyed fans of the TV series Dr Who will recognise the locations in a flash of a sonic screwdriver, such as Bad Wolf Bay where Billie Piper (Rose) played out a dramatic series-end finale with David Tennant. In real life, that’s Glamorgan’s Southerndown Bay. But it’s the traces of the area’s rich heritage from Norman castles to traditional agriculture that really sets this section of coast apart. The small but comparatively dramatic path, walkable in a day and moderate going aside from some steep valleys, is alive with sites and legends. Ogmore Castle on the Ewenny River was a key Norman base, while Iron Age hill forts litter the trail with links to the past.

It’s also rich with ecological diversity, taking in rocky and sandy beaches, crashing-wave cliffs and, Merthyr Mawr, a nature reserve has some of the highest sand

16 www.visitwales.com

dunes in Britain. Choughs have recently returned to the coast after over 100 years with two pairs now nesting successfully and, given the southerly location, the variety of butterflies attracted to the coast is particularly impressive. The limestone landscape encourages some rare species of flora, such as the Tuberous Thistle and Clustered Bellflower.

Make a stop at the Heritage Coast Information Centre, based at Dunraven Park in sheltered Southerndown Bay, to swot up on the history, flora and fauna. Better still, call ahead and check the tide times to help plan your visit. Catch a spring tide and you can walk the whole section of the soft-sand beach amid the second biggest tidal range in the world.

What the expert says: Paul Dunn, Principal Ranger, says: “My favourite place is on top of the headland at Witches Point, Southerndown Bay. You’re standing within an Iron Age hill fort, a settlement touched by history over thousands of years. I love this section of the Welsh coastline for the way you can walk through different settlements from the Iron Age via the Romans to the era of industrialisation.”

More from: www.glamorganwalks.com www.southernwales.com

Above: walking Nash Point on the Glamorgan Heritage Coast, crossing the stepping stones at Ogmore Castle and the Gronant Dunes, near Preststyn.

Right: Poppit Sands, Tenby Harbour, Porth Lysgi, near St Davids and Ceibwr Bay all on the Pembrokeshire Coast.

FOR SERIOUS WALKERS Pembrokeshire Coast Path How far? 186 miles / 299 km Where? Poppit Sands to Amroth What’s it like? Pembrokeshire’s long-distance coast path, some 85 percent of which lies within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park boundary, is Wales’ best-known destination for walkers. It punches well above its weight internationally. Indeed, the 186-mile (299 km) trail in West Wales was recently named the world’s third-best walk by travel advisor Cheapflights, beating the Inca Trail, Peru, and Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania into the top three.

This is the domain of the more serious walker. The 14-day walk takes typically 14 miles (22 km) per day to conquer and the landscape shifts organically, moving from the rugged, wave-lashed coast of the north to the sandy beaches and sheltered coves of the south. It’s a popular trail but still feels gloriously isolated with – aside from Tenby – mainly small settlements along the way.

The area is rich in historic remains with Castell Henllys, a reconstructed Iron Age hill fort, the only roundhouses in Britain reconstructed on the site where they were excavated. It is also noted for its diversity of wildlife, high-quality habitats and rare species. One third of Britain’s nesting pairs of choughs are to be found in Pembrokeshire, while Grassholm Island has the world’s largest gannet colony.

Highlights include the city of St Davids; with its imposing, 13th-century cathedral and landscapeinspired new art gallery, Oriel y Parc, just a one-mile detour from the official path and an ideal place to break the walk. Fishguard’s Town Hall, meanwhile, plays host to a compelling little exhibition of the Fishguard Tapestry, a Bayeux-style tableau to record the last ever invasion of Britain by a ragtag of French mercenaries in February 1797.

But, most of all, it’s a back-to-nature experience with attractions and challenges for all weathers. With 13 Blue Flag beaches in 2011, and 60 Sites of Special Scientific Interest, it’s a long walk but every day is different.

What the expert says: Charles Mathieson, Head of Recreation and Tourism, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority, says: “For me what makes it special is the real diversity of experiences – the little bays, coves and headlands. There’s something new around every corner and something different each season - seals pupping in autumn, coastal flowers in spring. I like the walk around the Angle Peninsula just south of Milford Haven. There’s a challenging and exciting section round to Freshwater West – a really wild, Atlantic walk.”

More from: www.pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk www.southwestwales.info

Something For The Weekend?

Walk This Way

Three routes along the Coast Path that help you make the most of a weekend’s walking in Wales.

01

NORTH WALES PATH

The ancient town of Conwy makes a great destination for a weekend break. The imposing 13th century castle and Medieval town walls with 21 towers form part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are a variety of interesting walks revealing extensive wildlife and dramatic scenery.

Day 1: Conwy to Llandudno and the Great Orme. The North Wales Path skirts the headland of the dramatic Great Orme rock.

The top of the Orme, which can be reached via several paths, features one of the oldest deep mines in the world, where copper was extracted during the Bronze Age. After rounding the Great Orme the path continues along Llandudno’s picturesque Victorian promenade. More energetic walkers can continue on over the Little Orme and down to the seafront of Rhos on Sea, home to Wales’ smallest church, St Trillo’s.

Distance: 9/14 miles (14/23 km).

Day 2: Conwy to Penmaenmawr, via the Sychnant Pass. The path follows the bank of the River Conwy, before heading back south and climbing up onto the heather-clad slopes of Conwy Mountain. There are dramatic views south across the striking Sychnant Pass valley into Snowdonia and the route climbs higher over the hills until it brings the walker to the high open moorland above Penmaenmawr. Points of interest along this route include the prehistoric Druid’s Stone Circle, which is believed to be 5,000 years old. After 10 miles (16 km) the path descends into Llanfairfechan where you can catch a bus or train back to Conwy.

Distance: 10 miles/16 km.

18 www.visitwales.com

02

GLAMORGAN HERITAGE COAST PATH

The Glamorgan Heritage Coast Path stretches for 14 miles (22 km) between Aberthaw, west of Barry and Newton Point, Porthcawl.

A variety of habitats, history and fantastic geology make it a great coast to walk and explore.

Day 1: Llantwit Major to Monknash. Walk through the historic town down to the beach or start from the beach itself near the café.

Walk westwards along the cliff- top path (or along the beach at low tide – walking along the beach will make the walk seem longer) towards Nash Point (three miles/4.8 km), where during the summer months, refreshments are available at the kiosk (Mrs. Cooke’s Welsh cakes are a speciality!) You could go back for a circular walk or continue on to Monknash – from the cliff tops you’ll see the impressive beach platforms (four miles/6.4 km). At Monknash walk inland for about a mile (1.6 km) to the Plough and Harrow real ale pub.

Day 2: Merthyr Mawr to Southerndown.

Start at the National Nature Reserve of Merthyr Mawr – taking in the second highest sand dune system in Europe, through the picturesque village of Merthyr Mawr and across the stepping-stones on the River Ewenny to Ogmore Castle. A gentle walk along the river leads you into Ogmoreby-Sea. As you approach Southerndown you’ll see the distinctive rock banding and the beautiful view of Dunraven Bay (five miles/8 km).

Southerndown is also the base for the Glamorgan Heritage Coast, including an information centre.

03

Pembrokeshire COAST PATH

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is fantastic from start to finish, but right out west St Davids makes a great base for a two night short break. Britain’s tiniest city (population: 1,797) is full of history and the cliff scenery either side is superb. The coastal bus service runs back and forth along the coast making linear walks easy to achieve. Choose late April to mid-June to see the coastal flowers at their best.

Day 1: Whitesands Bay to St Davids via St Justinians and Porthclais, or start in St Justinians for a shorter walk. You can’t miss the stunning views of the Ramsey Island RSPB Reserve and the beach café in Porthclais makes a welcome refreshment stop.

Distance: nine miles/15 km – seven and half miles/12 kms.

Day 2: Walk St Davids to Solva, or extend your route to Newgale for far reaching views along the coast. The Harbour Inn beside the fjord-like inlet at Solva makes a perfect lunch stop.

Distance: six miles/10 km – nine miles/12 kms.

Further information www.nationaltrail.co.uk www.ccw.gov.uk www.walking.visitwales.com www.pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk www.southwestwales.info www.southernwales.com www.visitnorthwales.co.uk

North Wales Path, near Sychnant Pass, North Wales.

Heart And Stroll If you can tear yourself away from the dramatic coastline of Wales, you’ll find an inland paradise for walkers of soaring mountain ranges, unspoilt woodland valleys and welcoming historic towns. And lots of traditional pubs...

01

NORTH WALES BORDERS North east Wales is sometimes overlooked as a destination for walkers. Much of it is covered by the path named after the man who brought the humble penny into monetary circulation. King Offa of Mercia was responsible for building a ditch that was 27 metres (88ft) wide and eight metres (26ft) deep that ran along the border between Wales and England – presumably with the intention of keeping the troublesome Welsh off his land. Inadvertently he created a spectacular walking route – the Offa’s Dyke Path. The walk up to the summit of Moel Famau (Mother Mountain), the peak of the Clwydian Range, is among the highlights.

Check out the remains of a 19th century Egyptian-style obelisk while you’re there and wonder at the eccentricity of it all.

Distance: 177 miles/285 km www.nationaltrail.co.uk/offasdyke www.clwydianrangeaonb.org.uk

Above: Pen y Fan & Cribyn, Brecon Beacons, Foel Fenlli, Clwydian Range, Llynnau Cregennen (view towards Cadair Idris), Goytre Wharf, Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal and the Taff Trail.

20 www.visitwales.com

02

ˆ GlyndWr’s Way The unspoilt heartland of mid Wales is where 15th century Welsh prince Owain Glyndwˆr instigated his rebellion against the English

monarchy’s rule over his homeland. The newest of the National Trails of Wales, it takes in many of Wales’ most dramatic locations, including the mountains of Cadair Idris and Plynlimon, as well as historic towns like Machynlleth and Welshpool. The 74 metres (243ft) high Pistyll Rhaeadr waterfall in the Berwyn Hills is a full 23 metres (75ft) higher than the Niagra Falls. It’s a particularly dramatic sight to see it frozen in winter.

Distance: 135 miles/217 km www.nationaltrail.co.uk/glyndwrsway

03

Brecon Beacons Black Mountains The mid Wales mountain ranges form the lofty heights of the Brecon Beacons National Park. The Offa’s Dyke Path passes through the area and there are several other routes, which take in the area, including the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal Walk and the Usk Valley Walk. There’s a sense that you’re as far from the madding crowd as you can get in the National Park, where the red kites soar high above the natural splendour of the gorges, caves and waterfalls of the Brecon Beacons. www.breconbeacons.org

04

the south WALES valleys The industrial heartland of Wales is characterised as an area of natural splendour torn apart by the hunger for coal and steel during the Industrial Revolution of the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s true that a third of the world’s coal supplies were once excavated from the mines of the South Wales Valleys, but that only tells part of the story. The

dramatic valleys landscape, including Coed Morgannwg Way, Ffordd-y-Bryniau (Taff Ely Way), Rhymney Valley Ridgeway Walk and the Taff Trail, provides a variety of established walking routes that help to piece together a jigsaw of heritage, industry and natural drama. www.thevalleys.co.uk For detailed information on walking holidays in Wales: www.walking.visitwales.com

Cache For Questions Geocaching is the 21st century treasure hunt that provides a perfect solution for those of us who occasionally need a little incentive to get off the sofa.

What you need A GPS receiver or a GPS-enabled mobile phone that you can hook up to a PC or Mac – and some competitive friends or family, which shouldn’t be too hard.

How to look for a cache Sign up to www.geocaching.com and type in a postcode or place name to reveal the number of caches in the area you’re planning to visit. Type in the co-ordinates into your GPS and away you go!

What can I expect to find?

Caches are usually boxes of varying size containing a logbook for you to sign, along with a gift, which you swap for something of equal or greater value. But the more the sport evolves, the greater the number of different geocaches, from mystery or puzzle caches to geocaching challenges.

Where to look There are 4,000 caches across Wales alone, with many hidden along the walking routes featured on these pages. Check www. geocaching.com for a comprehensive list.

SIMPLY THE FEST If you’re new to walking as a pastime, why not join the party at one of a number of walking festivals taking place in Wales.

Isle Of Anglesey Festival Of Walks Two weeks of walking events taking in the wonders of nature, geology, architecture, food and drink that Anglesey has to offer.

There are speed-dating walks and walks for people pushing babies in prams – completely unrelated events, of course... www.angleseywalkingfestival.com Vale of Glamorgan Walking Festival Nearly 20 different walks are organised over four days, taking in much of the Glamorgan Heritage Coast. We can recommend both the Vale Ale Trail and the Garlic Trail, but remember to pack some mints and headache tablets for the appropriate occasions. www.valeofglamorganwalkingfestival.org.uk Welsh International Walking Festival An annual four-day walking event around Llanwrtyd Wells – one of several events organised locally, including the Drovers’ Walk, the New Year Walk, the Lord Crawshaw

Above: Bedwellty Pits Incline Engine near Tredegar and walking the North Wales Path South Stack, Anglesey.

Memorial Walk and the two-day Real Ale Ramble, where free beer is handed out to participants. www.green-events.co.uk Barmouth Festival Of Walking Based around the serenity of the Mawddach Estuary and the sheer drama of southern Snowdonia, the festival features an itinerary of 30 separate walking routes over nine days. www.barmouthwalkingfestival.co.uk Cardigan Coast Walks Festival An annual programme of walks in and around Aberystwyth, and the whole of the Ceredigion Coastal Path. The festival covers a range of walks for all tastes and abilities including – urban walking, countryside walks and of course tackling the coastal path. www.walk-wales.co.uk See the events listing on pages 2-9 for details on more walking events and other events taking place in Wales in 2012.

www.visitwales.com 21

Langland Bay, Mumbles.

Jamie’s

Wales During his most recent culinary adventure, one of Britain’s best-known chefs, Jamie Oliver, visited South Wales and was delighted to discover a world he knew nothing of…

I

’ve been lucky to travel the world in search of great produce, different styles of cooking and traditions stretching back centuries. But as an Essex boy who grew up running about the kitchens of my mum and dad’s pub, I’ve always been fascinated by the food culture of Britain.

It’s been fantastic to watch Britain rediscover its appetite for quality food over the past 15 years or so. We’re talking about simple, traditional ideas being rediscovered, taking advantage of weather conditions that give us orchards of fruit, great soil for vegetables and grass for animals to feed, helping to produce great meat, cheese and milk.

Another thing that interests me about the changing nature of food in Britain is the way we’ve taken a thousand-and-one influences from other parts of the world. There’s something worth celebrating about the openness of our food culture to embrace other ideas.

This is where Wales comes in.

I’ve always known that Wales is a country with great produce. Welsh lamb is famous all over the world and rightly so. Likewise the seafood, and shellfish in particular, ends up on plates in mainland Europe, as well as many of the best eating places in Britain.

There are great cheeses produced in Wales and the rise of the organic movement along with fabulous natural growing conditions means that there’s a lot more to enjoy in the Welsh vegetable patch than just the humble leek.

But what really blows me away about Wales is this melting pot of different languages, cultures and ideas that has bubbled away for over 200 years. And it’s all down to coal and metal. The first million pound business deal in history took place in Cardiff and that kind of money drew people from all over the world to settle in Wales, like bees to honey.

So not only does Wales have great produce, it’s also become home to dozens of languages, cultural traditions and, of course, a ton of fantastic food influences that are now ingrained in Welsh life.

I spent a few days in South Wales meeting people who helped me put some sense to all this wealth of history.

My first port of call was the Rhondda Valley, which was the epicenter of the largest coalfield in the world.

Over 350,000 people moved here to work in the mining industry – they came from England, Scotland and Ireland. Spanish, Russians, Poles and French communities sprang up. They even came from Australia and China.

And, of course, there were Italians....

www.visitwales.com 23

Forza Wales!

The Italians came to Wales in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Family names like Rabaiotti, Sidoli, Bracchi, Cascarini, Conti and Cresci are not just familiar in Wales; they’re famous food names. Frank & Aldo Berni, who established the British Berni Inn chain in the 1950s, were Italian boys.

All these families built their own food and drink empires in The Valleys. They built the first coffee shops in Wales, which were like shiny palaces of chrome, copper and glass.

Miners would work six days a week in the toughest conditions imaginable. They’d get paid weekly, in cash, and they’d head to the Italian cafes for an experience of rare luxury. They’d drink frothy coffee made in huge chrome machines, they’d eat cake the like of which they would have never seen before. And this is where they would have tasted ice cream for the first time.

Ice cream can bring a bit of sunshine to the wettest days. It was the Italians who saw the value in making this delicacy into an industry. Before factories and mass production, Italian families would work day and night churning their own ice cream; selling it in their coffee shops and ice cream carts they’d push around.

Remember, this was even before there was ever a fridge or a freezer in anyone’s home. If you wanted ice cream, you had to go to an Italian coffee shop.

There might not be as many coffee shops as there used to be, but the Italian influence is as strong as it ever was. From the Rhondda to the Gower coast is a good hour’s drive, but it just goes to show the influence of the Italians throughout South Wales.

Verdi’s, which is just a stones throw from the shore of

24 www.visitwales.com

Swansea Bay, is like a cathedral dedicated to ice cream.

There are over 20 flavours here – all home-made using local milk. As with most Italian ice cream recipes, the only way you get to know what goes into a recipe is to marry into the family.

I’m not about to abandon my beautiful wife and four gorgeous children – even if I could find a Welsh Italian ice cream heiress who’d have me. So I decided to go my own way, with a delicious recipe for a retro arctic roll, which I renamed Dragon Arctic Roll in honour of my new friends at Verdi’s. www.verdis-cafe.co.uk

Tiger Bay At the turn of the 20th century only the USA attracted more new settlers than Wales.

Many of them settled near the docklands area of Cardiff, known as Tiger Bay. People came from many different countries. They brought their languages, customs and a load of new and exciting flavours to Wales.

There’s a great piece of graffiti work in Cardiff Bay that tells the story of all the nations who came here – from Malta, Honduras, Norway, the Caribbean, Somalia and Greece. There are over 90 languages spoken in the capital of Wales.

Cardiff also has the oldest Yemeni community in Britain. At the start of the 1900s Cardiff had the largest walled dock in the world and Yemeni stokers, engineers and sailors travelled on ships powered by Welsh coal.

The links between Yemen and Wales are really strong. The mosque in Tiger Bay is thought to be the

first built in Britain. There’s even an Arabic saying – ‘He didn’t work hard for it in Cardiff’’ – which is used to describe people who waste money.

I met Samira, whose mum is Welsh and her dad is from Yemen. She learnt how to cook as a teenager visiting relatives in Yemen. Now she runs a project to keep Yemeni cooking alive in her community. And if I’ve got anything to do with it, Yemeni food is here to stay.

Similar to Wales, the mountains of Yemen provide an ideal environment to rear sheep. The way that Samira prepares the lamb is just fantastic. Just a simple rub of garlic, pepper and coriander, cooked in foil with coriander and a bay leaf for two and a half hours, until the meat is tender and just falls off the bone.

The Yemeni pancake is another thing altogether. A cross between a pancake and a crumpet, the dough is blended with onion and fenugreek, a lovely yellow spice that’s used as an ingredient in curry powders and paste. It’s characteristic of Yemeni food that the basic ingredients are not too overwhelming in flavour – the real beauty of this food is that there are various side dishes with spices and all sorts of powerful flavours that let you liven up your plate.

The fantastic thing about discovering this wonderful little corner of Wales for the first time is that it was way beyond anything I could have ever anticipated. It’s like some kind of happy accident that whether you’re Welsh, Yemeni or Welsh-Yemeni, the most popular dish is lamb. This is food that British people love – it’s simple, wholesome food that’s packed full of flavour.

Surf & Turf When the sun shines in Wales it’s gorgeous. People spend all their money going to Spain, but when you’re messing about on the beaches of The Gower Peninsula why would you ever want to be anywhere else?

Having spent a week in Wales meeting people who’d taken time to welcome me into their homes, to cook for me, to share their produce and tell me about their lives, I thought it was only fair to return the favour with a barbecue with a difference on Oxwich beach.

The Americans may have invented the term Surf & Turf, but it may as well have been the Welsh. For my barbecue I used some fantastic locally reared lamb, with some fresh lobster we caught earlier in the day.

Lobster love to hide out in cracks and crevices and there are craggy bits of the Welsh coastline that are tailor-made for them to thrive in. Until 200 years ago lobster was just the food of the locals, who’d also feast on crab, oysters, cockles and mussels.

Then came the invention of the steam train, which whipped them all over the country. Demand for top quality shellfish flew up and with that, the prices.

I went out with a couple of local lads, Mike and Mike to catch our dish of the day and it’s not difficult to see why these local delicacies have become so sought after.

They were a beautiful size, a fantastic bluish colour with brown markings.

Most of the lobster caught off the coast of Wales end up being eaten in France. But these babies that Mike and Mike caught didn’t even get past Swansea Bay.

From top left: rabbit Bolognese from the Rhondda Valley.

Middle and right: Surf and turf Gower-style at Oxwich Bay. Above: Spicy lamb, inspired by the food of Cardiff’s Yemeni community.

Left: Jamie dines with the Yemeni community.

For more Welsh culinary delights take a look at www.walesthetruetaste.co.uk.

For recipes inspired by Jamie’s adventure in south Wales: visit www.jamieoliver.com and www.channel4.com/food.

www.visitwales.com 25

A LAND OF PLENTY

Seasoned Advice Whenever you travel around Wales and hunger strikes, it’s worth hunting out some of these great places to eat.

There’s been a huge upsurge of interest in real food: you know, authentic ingredients from coast and hillside, honestly prepared with love and skill. And it’s not just about winning stars and rosettes (although there are plenty of them). It’s become a matter of enormous pride to chefs that this particular fillet came from that field there, and this lobster was landed by him, the man in the corner of the bar, with the hat.

Many of the great places to eat in Wales come with the True Taste seal of approval and the blessing of other major food guides.

Restaurants & hotels South Wales Bunch of Grapes It looks like a cosy Valleys local (and indeed it is), but it’s also a fab gastro pub, which brews its own multi-award-winning Otley beer. www.bunchofgrapes.org.uk Caesars Arms This close-to-Cardiff institution, famed for its fish, now comes with its own farm shop. www.caesarsarms.co.uk The Crown at Whitebrook This luscious Michelin-starred restaurantwith-rooms is currently the top place in Wales, according to the major guidebooks. www.crownatwhitebrook.co.uk Newbridge on Usk This 200-year-old country inn set on the banks of the River Usk is an award-winning five star restaurant-with-rooms. www.newbridgeonusk.co.uk North Wales Castle Cottage A pair of rugged Medieval buildings are home to a delightfully contemporary restaurant-with-rooms. www.castlecottageharlech.co.uk

26 www.visitwales.com

Old Bull’s Head This historic inn has a fine-dining restaurant and a chic contemporary brasserie, right next to beautiful Beaumaris Castle. www.bullsheadinn.co.uk Plas Bodegroes The food, the art, the rooms, the location – everything is just about perfect at this Pwllheli favourite. www.bodegroes.co.uk Tyddyn Llan Michelin-starred restaurant-with-rooms set splendidly in the Clwydian hills. www.tyddynllan.co.uk Mid Wales The Drawing Room Local Wye Valley produce is used to great effect at this elegant Georgian country house near Builth Wells. www.the-drawing-room.co.uk Ynyshir Hall This sumptuous coastal hotel comes with a lovely Michelin-starred restaurant. www.ynyshirhall.co.uk

Y Ffarmers Just out of Aberystwyth is the kind of pub every village wishes it had: good beer, good food and friendly staff. www.yffarmers.co.uk Number 18 This café/bar/brasserie brings a funky urban vibe to Crickhowell. www.black-mountain.co.uk West Wales Cwtch Informal, relaxed, and passionate about good food, all in at the heart of little St Davids. www.cwtchrestaurant.co.uk Y Polyn An old-fashioned country inn serving cutting-edge pub food, in the beautiful Tywi Valley. www.ypolynrestaurant.co.uk Sosban A pair of British Lion rugby players went into business with local food experts, and scored an instant hit with this terrific Llanelli dockside restaurant. www.sosbanrestaurant.com

The Drawing Room near Builth Wells.

Right: Cwtch Restaurant, St Davids, A typical food festival, Cardiff Farmers Market.

Welcome to Town Despite the name, there’s a cosy rural feel to this Gower gem, which makes great use of local produce. www.thewelcometotown.co.uk

which is cheering news all round.

New ones spring up all the time, so for updates see the Farmers’ Markets in Wales website. www.fmiw.co.uk

FIVE great tea rooms

Food & Drink Festivals

Caffi Florence There are lots of reasons to visit Denbighshire’s Loggerheads Country Park, but this is our favourite. www.caffiflorence.co.uk

To get an idea of what Welsh food is really like in the 21st century, look no further than your friendly local food festival. There are dozens to choose from, each with its very own seasonal, regional flavours.

You’ll find the finest food and drink Wales has to offer, fresh from the kitchen, made by people with a real passion and talent. Here’s a small seasonal taster.

The Hive There’s a real buzz (ha!) about the famous honey ice cream at this upmarket caff on Aberaeron harbour. www.thehiveaberaeron.com The Old Stables Tea Rooms This Hay-on-Wye gem has won gongs for both its tea room and award-winning preserves. www.chefontherunfoods.co.uk Quayside Homemade cakes and breads, local crab, speciality teas... and all on the banks of the River Cleddau in Pembrokeshire. www.quaysidelawrenny.co.uk UltraComida Cracking Spanish deli/café with outlets in Narberth and Aberystwyth, and a fine mailorder business dealing in Iberian delicacies. www.ultracomida.co.uk

Farmers’ Markets There’s nothing like a tasty treat direct from the person who grew it – or brewed it, baked it, or bottled it. The farmers’ market phenomenon has really taken off in Wales,

Spring Saundersfoot St David’s Food and Craft Festival, Saundersfoot www.visit-saundersfoot.com

Cardigan River and Food Festival, Cardigan www.cardigan-food-festival.co.uk Autumn Feastival: The Alternative Food Festival, Bridgend http://feastival.moonfruit.com Taste Dolgellau, Dolgellau www.discoverdolgellau.com

West Wales Food Festival, National Botanic Garden www.westwalesfoodfestival.com

Celtic Winter Fayre, Llandudno www.celticwinterfayre.co.uk

Gorseinon Food Festival, Swansea www.gdt.org.uk

Royal Welsh Winter Fair, Builth Wells www.rwas.co.uk/en/winter-fair

Llyˆn Land and Seafood Festival, Pwllheli www.gwynedd.gov.uk

Winter

Summer Great Welsh Beer & Cider Festival, Cardiff www.gwbcf.org.uk Monmouthshire Pear & Perry Festival, nr Abergavenny www.villagealivetrust.org.uk The Big Welsh Bite, Pontypridd www.whatsonrct.co.uk

Aberglasney’s Traditional Christmas Fair, Aberglasney, Llangathen www.aberglasney.org Get Welsh in Swansea Food & Drink Show, Swansea www.saintdavidsday.com Wrexham Beer Festival, Wrexham www.wrexhambeerfestival.co.uk For more on food and other festivals happening in Wales see pages 2-9.

www.visitwales.com 27

sprung spring has

Since Britain’s nature television programme Springwatch moved to Wales in 2011 there has been a massive growth in the number of people exploring the natural wonders of Wales. Presenter Kate Humble, who lives in Monmouthshire, picks a handful of her favourite places to visit.

W

hat I love about Wales is that it has managed to hold on to its integrity and its character.

There are a lot of places you simply wouldn’t find anywhere else in the world. You’re free from chains here. Everything seems very typical of its own individual area. It’s something that the people of Wales should quite rightly be proud of.

Springwatch has gathered a very loyal audience over the years and that audience has learned a lot about areas in Britain it didn’t know about before. Wales, although I hate to say it, has been rather under represented in the past. As an extremely biased resident of Monmouthshire, it’s been delightful to see Wales deservedly coming to the fore.

In the past people may have thought they had to see lions and elephants to get excited by nature. Springwatch is very proud of the fact that it’s helped people to open their eyes to nature in Britain. Even the most ordinary, everyday creatures are fascinating when presented as a natural soap opera.

Newport Wetlands RSPB Reserve I’m lucky to be president of the RSPB and this facility makes a huge contribution to the community around it. The opportunity to explore the countryside and its natural wonders should be open to all, whatever their age, wherever they live and, crucially, whatever their existing knowledge is. The Newport Wetlands Centre provides a valuable service to the community. You’re right on the outskirts of Newport, which is a fairly industrial part of South Wales and it’s absolutely incredible to be just a couple of miles from the city centre in this amazing landscape. It’s a very dramatic setting and it doesn’t feel like you’re close to a city at all. Forgive me standing on my soapbox for a moment, but if you’re going to teach people, not just about nature, but geography and

the environment, it should happen outside so they can experience things at first hand. That’s why Newport Wetlands is one of the places I really cherish in Wales.

Look out for: among the shovelers, little grebes and dunlins that are regulars to Newport Wetlands, more rare visitors that come and go include the red kite, the curlew and the cattle egret. www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/n/newportwetlands www.southernwales.com Anglesey It’s a place I’m only just becoming familiar with after spending a weekend there while we were filming at Ynyshir for Springwatch. Exploring the coastline there was quite wonderful, just crossing the bridge over the Menai Strait makes you feel you’re visiting a new land. It’s a real playground for people who love to be outdoors. Almost all the 125-mile (201 km) coastline of Anglesey is within a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. There are two RSPB reserves here – South Stack Cliffs and Valley Wetlands – and four Welsh National Nature Reserves.

The coastline is stunning and the woodland is beautiful.

My husband is obsessed by castles and he was in his element exploring Beaumaris Castle and other historic monuments. You can go cycling, kite surfing, sailing, kayaking and wild swimming. For people who like the great outdoors in its raw splendour Anglesey is perfect.

Look out for: the puffin is an iconic sight at the South Stack RSPB Reserve. You might spot a rare red squirrel in Newborough Forest and see the second-largest raven roost anywhere in the world. www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/s/southstackcliffs www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/v/valleywetlands www.visitnorthwales.co.uk

Main image: East Usk Lighthouse, Newport Wetlands RSPB Reserve.

Top of page: Newport Wetlands RSPB Reserve, Kate Humble and South Stack Lighthouse, Anglesey.

www.visitwales.com 29

“W hat I love about Wales is that it has managed to hold on to its integrity and its character.

There are a lot of places you simply wouldn’t find anywhere else in the world.”

Above: Common guillemot and Atlantic puffin.

Right: Three Cliffs Bay, Gower Peninsula.

Below right: View of the Wye Valley, Monmouthshire and Ynys-hir RSPB Reserve Machynlleth.

Monmouthshire & The Wye Valley It’s a very beautiful county that is sometimes overlooked as people race over the Severn Bridge towards the better-known areas of Wales like Pembrokeshire or Snowdonia. It’s a place that has an enormous amount to offer. The Wye Valley, which is designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, was practically the first tourist destination in Britain, attracting people in their droves during the Victorian era. With fabulous woodlands, the 72-mile (116 km) stretch of the Wye down to Chepstow is a beautiful canoeing river. There are any number of great food producers here, as well as great restaurants and pubs.

We’ve lived here for almost four years now and when we’ve welcomed visitors they’ve been surprised at how accessible it is. We hope to start our own project near Monmouth very soon, teaching old rural skills for people who want to start their own smallholding. In doing so we’d like to attract people to stay a bit longer and see what the county has to offer.

Look out for: the goshawk, locally extinct in the19th century, this secretive bright red-eyed forest bird gets its groove on for a dramatic ‘sky dance’ in spring. www.wyevalleyaonb.org.uk www.southernwales.com

30 www.visitwales.com

The Gower Peninsula Britain has an almost infinite number of spectacular coastlines, but I find myself drawn back to Gower time and time again. It’s a very special area and I think one of those reasons is that it remains genuinely wild. Gower was designated the first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in the UK in 1956. It has over 50 coves and beaches, three Welsh National Nature Reserves and numerous areas of Special Scientific Interest. There is something really fabulous about walking across the cliffs of Gower overlooking the three-mile (5 km) sweeping bay of Rhossili, with choughs soaring overhead and that very distinctive call they have. One of the great treats of walking the Gower coast is that you get to see these black birds with their bright red legs and their red bills, like they’re wearing red tights and lipstick.

Every Christmas we’ve been in Wales has been spent in Oxwich Bay. There’s a wonderful ten-mile (16 km) walk around Oxwich and Nicholaston taking you through dunes, woodland, marshland and back to the beach.

There’s every chance you’ll see sparrow hawks, buzzards, woodpeckers and a handful of different tits and warblers.

Look out for: the red-billed chough. It’s believed that there may be up to 30 of these gregarious birds showing off their acrobatics across Gower. www.southwestwales.info www.swansea.gov.uk/aonb

Ynys-hir RSPB Reserve, nr Machynlleth The Ynys-hir reserve is a remarkable place, with wet grasslands, salt marshes and oak woodland which the lapwing, little egret, redshank and wood warbler call home. It was a reserve I didn’t know and neither did my co-presenter Chris Packham, so it was a whole new area of discovery for us as well as the viewers of Springwatch.

It has demonstrated that this area of Wales, which is not a particularly talked about tourist destination compared to Snowdonia or the Black Mountains, is not only beautiful, but also full of extremely diverse wildlife. The Springwatch effect has helped to raise the profile of Ynys-hir and visitors have been utterly inspired when they’ve come to see the place for themselves. It’s one of the most beautiful areas of the country I’ve seen.

The logistics of broadcasting Springwatch are quite daunting. We laid down something like 10 miles (16 km) of cable, all of which has to be done with no effect on the people who work there, the public and most importantly, the native habitat. So broadcasting Springwatch live for 12 nights over a three-week period is a real achievement of logistics and engineering! The wonderful thing for visitors is there’s so much there to see we barely scratched the surface.

Look out for: red kites, the iconic bird of Wales. I like to think they look like Henry VIII, red and arrogant and rather magnificent. www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/y/ynys-hir www.bbc.co.uk/nature/uk www.visitwales.com 31

THE WILD BLUE YONDER

Nature’s Calling We may be a bit low on lions and tigers, but with over 230 nature reserves in Wales, you won’t go short when it comes to experiencing the wonders of nature.

STEALING BEAUTY

FOR THE BIRDS

Gower Peninsula Britain’s first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty has 270 miles (434 km) of walking trails, which weave through the high ridges overlooking Worm’s Head, to the salt marshes of the Burry Inlet. www.swansea.gov.uk/aonb

Red kites are now such a common sight in mid Wales, it’s hard to believe they were almost extinct just 25 years ago. The islands of Pembrokeshire have sea bird colonies of world importance, alongside grey seals, dolphins and porpoises. The six Wildlife Trusts in Wales manage 230 nature reserves.

There are around a dozen RSPB reserves in Wales, including: RSPB South Stack Cliffs, RSPB Ynys-hir, RSPB Ramsey Island and RSPB Newport Wetlands. www.rspb.org.uk

Llyˆn Peninsula The slender, pointy bit is one of the undiscovered gems of Wales, with its sheer black cliffs at Mynydd Mawr and spectacular hill forts dating back to the Iron Age. www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org Clwydian Range A 20-mile (32 km) chain of undulating hills, packed with varied and striking features, from open moorland to fertile farmland. www.clwydianrangeaonb.org.uk

BORN TO BE WILD There are 6,000 hectares of habitat in Wales in the care of the wildlife trusts of Wales, which is roughly 6,000 times bigger than London’s Trafalgar Square. Phew...

Montgomeryshire Wildlife Trust www.montwt.co.uk Radnorshire Wildlife Trust www.rwtwales.org North Wales Wildlife Trust www.northwaleswildlifetrust.org.uk Brecknock Wildlife Trust www.brecknockwildlifetrust.org.uk The Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales www.welshwildlife.org Gwent Wildlife Trust www.gwentwildlife.org

Anglesey A fabulous 125-mile (201 km) coastal path takes in some of the oldest rock formations in Britain, while the varied habitats are a haven for ornithologists. www.anglesey.gov.uk/AONB Wye Valley The entire length of the Wye is designated an AONB, making it arguably the finest lowland landscape in Britain, beloved of poets and artists. www.wyevalleyaonb.co.uk 32 www.visitwales.com

NATIONAL TREASURE There are three National Parks in Wales, each with its unique natural landscape and heritage sights. The Parks cover an area of 4,122 sq km – that’s 20 percent of the total land area of Wales.

Snowdonia National Park Britain’s second-highest mountain, Snowdon, soars above a majestic landscape of lakes, forests and picturesque villages like Betws-y-Coed and Beddgelert. www.eryri-npa.gov.uk www.visitnorthwales.info Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Britain’s only coastal national park is a spectacular mix of rugged cliffs, sandy beaches and winding estuaries. www.pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk www.southwestwales.info Brecon Beacons National Park The highest mountains in southern Britain aren’t the only highlight in this magical region of ancient woodlands, reservoirs, breathtaking waterfalls and caves. www.breconbeacons.org www.exploremidwales.com

We’d never want to put you off visiting our lovely country, but some pretty nasty stuff has happened in Wales over the last 250,000 years or so. It’s fine now, though, honest.

450AD: Deadly Dragons In North Wales there is an old hill fort, known as Dinas Emrys. There is a legend that the British King Vortigern, who fled to Wales from the Saxons, tried to build his castle here. But every night, when the work stopped, the tower fell down.

A wise old man explained to Vortigern that a new building needed a blood sacrifice. The wise old man added that the blood must be of a young fatherless boy. Vortigern’s men returned with a young boy named Merlin.

Just as Merlin was about to get the chop he claimed that he knew the real reason the castle kept falling down.

Beneath the ground, he explained, was a deep pool where two dragons lived. The red dragon and the white dragon would fight every night and the struggle would bring down the tower.

The red dragon represented Wales and the white dragon represented Saxon England. When the red dragon eventually won the fight, then peace would return.

Of course, Vortigern never did get to defeat the Saxons. That was down to another British leader – the man they knew as Arthur. Merlin joined Arthur and for a while the British defeated the Saxon enemies.

When Dinas Emrys was finally dug up in the 1950s they really did find a deep pool. Spooky or what?

600: Heads You Win Severed heads appear in lots of Welsh tales. That tells us something about the Celts who lived in Wales in ancient times. At one time heads must have been bouncing round Celtic lands like lottery numbers in a drum.

One of the most famous loppings was St Gwenfrewi (or Winifride in English) – around 600AD. Winifride was a nun. She was also the niece of Saint Beuno, an abbot in sixth-century Wales.

Young Welsh Prince Caradog ap Alyn loved her but she refused to marry him.

This upset the young prince so he drew his sword and cut off her head.

As her head hit the ground a spring of water gushed out of the dry rock.

Along came Saint Beuno, who stuck her head back on her body and she was restored to life, with just a thin white line round her neck to show her little accident.

Beuno was not so kind to Caradog. The saint cursed the prince until the earth opened up and swallowed him.

34 www.visitwales.com

Winifride’s well waters are now said to cure illnesses and the well in Holywell, North Wales, is still visited by tourists today.

880: Lovely Laws In the year 927 the Welsh princes said they’d let themselves be ruled by the English king.

But there were still some great Welsh princes. There were people like Hywel the Good (880-950). The Welsh called him Hywel Dda. Of course he wasn’t all THAT good – he had his brother-in-law killed.

But Hywel did create the ‘Law Of Hywel’, a set of laws that would be in force in Wales for hundreds of years.

They say he took the laws to Rome and had them blessed by the Pope.

They were sensible laws, less of the old ‘punishment’ and more ‘pay cash for your crime’.

Hywel’s laws saw women as almost equal to men.

Almost, but not quite...

A woman slave was worth less than a man slave.

Hywel was the first person to get all the bards of Wales together for a contest. It was his idea that was copied in 1880 when The National Eisteddfod was formed.

1282: Llywelyn the Last Llywelyn ap Gruffydd (1223-1282) was also known as Llywelyn ap Gwynedd and Llywelyn the Last.

Of course, he didn’t know he was going to be the last.

He probably thought he’d be the first in a long line of Welsh princes.

Henry III gave Llywelyn the title of ‘Prince of Wales’ and he had to fight to keep Wales for the Welsh. In 1282 he rebelled against King Edward of England.

He burned Edward’s castles and fought Edward’s troops. Edward was furious. But while Llywelyn was away gathering a new army, the English attacked first.

The Welsh were beaten near Builth Wells.

They say 3,000 Welsh were slaughtered, and the rest put down their weapons – then the English slaughtered them.

Some people believe the corpses are buried under the course at Builth Wells Golf Club.

Llywelyn heard the battle and rushed back. But it was a trap. He’d been betrayed.

When Llywelyn got to the Orewin Bridge he met an English knight, Stephen de Frankton, who challenged him to a fight.

Llywelyn was the most wanted man in Britain – but Stephen de Frankton had no idea he was fighting the Prince Of Wales, as Llywelyn wasn’t wearing any armour – just a tunic. Stephen de Frankton charged at him with a lance. When he found out who he’d killed, he cut off Llywelyn’s head and it was put on show in English towns.

There’s a stone monument at the nearby village of Cilmeri where Llywelyn fell.

It says: Ein Llyw Olaf …Our Last Ruler

1400: The Peasants Are Revolting!

This upset the young prince so he drew his sword and cut off her head.

Prophets In Wales said that the world would come to an end in 1400. Peasants wanted to make the most of the time they had left: they boozed... and they fought. They elected Owain Glyndwˆr as their leader.

The English tried to crush the revolt, but storms smashed the English army. The rebels said God was on their side.

By 1402 Glyndwˆr ruled most of Wales but hadn’t captured any castles. He got help from the French... and from rebels in England!

Owain could be pretty cruel in victory.

It was said the castle keeper at Peterston-super-Ely was beheaded after he surrendered.

When Owain Glyndwˆr took Radnor Castle, 60 prisoners surrendered. Owain ordered them all to be executed.

It was the future Henry V who defeated the Welsh. In 1405 he killed the Abbot of Llantarnam’s army at a battle near Usk and the war turned against Owain Glyndwˆr.

And, if you want a terrible tale, Owain’s son, Tudor, was hacked to death and 300 Welsh soldiers were beheaded near the River Usk. The war turned against Owain, and in 1406 the French stopped helping him. By 1408 Owain’s army had lost Aberystwyth Castle.

In 1409 the English took Harlech Castle and captured Owain’s family. But not Owain. No, he slipped away to the mountains to continue the fight. And then…

He disappeared! He may have died at his sister’s house in 1415.

In the 1700s Thomas Pennant collected the stories of Owain that made him out as the chief hero of the Welsh.

They say he’s still alive. Sitting in a cave playing chess with King Arthur. Waiting for the day when the Welsh need a hero to save them!

1797: The Wild Women of Wales Everybody remembers the first French invasion of Britain in 1066 – they remember King Harold the hero who died with an arrow in his eye.

Sadly, Jemima Nicholas and the Pembroke Mum’s Army have been almost forgotten. She was a woman, of course, and it doesn’t seem to matter that she actually won!

This is her dramatic – and almost forgotten – story.

On the 22 February 1797, 1,500 French troops, known as the Black Legion, landed at Carreg Wastad, near Fishguard, on the west coast of Wales. The main French army was planning to invade Ireland and set it free from British rule.

The French sent these 1,500 to attack Bristol – to make the English think THAT’S where the attack would be. But gales blew them past Bristol so they sailed round to Fishguard instead.

The French expected the Welsh to rise up and fight the English! Bad idea. But they picked a good place to land. The defenders only had eight cannons in the whole of Fishguard – and those cannons only had three cannonballs! SO what did the defenders do? They fired blanks! It kept the French army quiet until Lord Cawdor arrived with a proper army.

Jemima Nicholas – a local cobbler – went out into fields that day and saw a dozen of the French soldiers wandering around. They were poor soldiers – half of the French army were criminals fresh out of jails. Some of them still had ankle irons on. They were starving and drunk; Jemima caught them chasing her sheep and chickens to eat.

She picked up a pitchfork and pointed it at them. They threw down their weapons. Jemima marched them down to the local jail. She became a Welsh heroine and was awarded a pension of £50 a year for life.

Horrible Histories is a series of illustrated children’s books published in the UK and television programmes broadcast by the BBC. Horrible Histories is designed to engage children in history with unusual and sometimes gory stories. There are over 60 titles available in over 30 languages. http://horrible-histories.co.uk

Reproduced by kind permission of Scholastic Children’s Books.

www.visitwales.com 35

nasty nuggets and foul facts aplenty

Wicked Wales

How to have a horribly great time in Wales by visiting and experiencing some of the places mentioned in the Horrible Histories feature. Don’t worry; most of the blood and guts has been wiped away now...

Historical Sites If you want to learn more about Druids, go to the Isle of Anglesey on the north-west coast of Wales, where they struck terror into the Roman soldiers. www.visitnorthwales.co.uk

• It’s unlikely that Hywel Dda ever thought his progressive lawmaking would lead to the creation of the only garden in Europe dedicated to the law in Whitland Carmarthenshire. www.hywel-dda.co.uk

• These days you can walk along Offa’s Dyke Path, marking the border between England and Wales, without worrying about getting your arms chopped off. www.nationaltrail.co.uk/offasdyke

• You can also visit the memorial to Llywelyn The Last. The monument in Cilmeri, near Builth Wells, Powys, is located near to where he had a lance driven through him in a fight near Orewin Bridge. Bet that stung...

• Discover 2,000 years of history at Cardiff Castle one of the most significant heritage locations in Wales dating back to the Romans in 50 AD. www.cardiffcastle.com

• Visit the Owain Glyndwr ˆ Centre in Machynlleth, where he was crowned Prince of Wales. www.canolfanglyndwr.org

Castles If it’s turrets and moats you’re after you’ve come to the right place. Wales is the capital of castles, with around 100 still standing and another 300 identified locations where they once stood. Here are just a few that we’ve featured: • Dinefwr Castle in Carmarthenshire, first established by Rhodri Mawr.

• The site of Twthill Castle, the royal seat of Gruffydd ap Llywelyn in Denbighshire (just near Rhuddlan Castle).

The opulent banqueting hall at Cardiff Castle.

• We didn’t make it up about the Rebecca Riots, when men dressed up in women’s clothing to disguise themselves during their lawless pursuits. If you want proof, visit the National History Museum at St Fagans, on the outskirts of Cardiff. www.museumwales.ac.uk • The wild women of Wales sent the last invaders of Britain packing back to France.

The leader of that brave band was Jemima Nicholas and her grave is situated outside St Mary’s Church in Fishguard, Pembrokeshire. www.southwestwales.info 36 www.visitwales.com

• Dinas Emrys Castle, the location of the prophecy of Merlin near Beddgelert, in Snowdonia.

• Native Welsh castles established during the time of Llywelyn the Great, including Castell y Bere, Ewloe, Dolbadarn and Dolwyddelan.

• Harlech Castle on the Gwynedd coast, where Owain Glyndwr ˆ held parliament, is a dramatic sight to behold, nearly 700 years after it was built.

Further Information www.visitwales.com www.cadw.wales.gov.uk www.castlewales.com

Harlech, Dolbadarn and Dolwyddelan Castles and Llywelyn the Great’s resting place.

different stay somewhere...

Fforest Camp, Manorafon, Ceredigion.

From antique yurts to Hobbit tents to cavalry domes, Wales is a country full of quirky places to stay.

Let There Be Light…

Or let there be lighthouses, to be more precise. The strikingly rotund West Usk Lighthouse, near Newport, was built in 1821 and once protected travellers along the treacherous stretch where the Usk and the Severn flow into the sea. Not only has it been lovingly restored, it has an added surprise for guests in the form of a dalek guarding the bottom of the stairs.

The fortress-like Llandudno lighthouse is within the Great Orme Country Park and is perched on the edge of a 100-metre (328ft) drop into the sea below. The splendid Canadian pine panelling gives an air of gentleman’s club to this grand bed & breakfast. www.westusklighthouse.co.uk www.lighthouse-llandudno.co.uk

Kings Of The Castle We haven’t done the maths on this, but there seem to be as many Medieval castles, ancient forts and Neolithic settlements in Wales as there are hotels. As a matter of fact, some of those ancient buildings are hotels. The 13th century Gate House near Chepstow and the Tudor courtyard house of Gwydir Castle are just a couple of examples. Fortunately the food and the bedding are among the facilities that have been significantly upgraded in the intervening centuries. www.welshgatehouse.com www.gwydircastle.co.uk www.cadw.wales.gov.uk

Youth And Beauty Here’s a smart alternative to the idea of renting out an enormous country house for that special birthday or anniversary party. There are numerous youth hostels and bunkhouses in some of the most wild and picturesque locations in Wales that are available for hire, including in the Brecon Beacons National Park and on the shores of the Gower Peninsula. www.bunkhousesinwales.co.uk www.yha.org.uk

38 www.visitwales.com

Fantasy Islands There are 50 islands in Wales and you can stay on quite a few of them. Bardsey Island, off the coast of the Llyˆn Peninsula, is a place of religious pilgrimage as well as a National Nature Reserve and a site of Special Scientific Interest. It’s only 1.5 miles (2.4 km) long and half a mile (0.8 km) across and there’s a fair chance you’ll spot dolphins and seals.

Skomer Island, off the coast of Pembrokeshire is a fraction bigger and is also teeming with wildlife, including the Atlantic Puffin and the Manx Shearwater, as well as being the location of prehistoric houses and a stone circle. www.enlli.org www.welshwildlife.org/skomer-skokholm/ skomer

Farm Charm Farming has been an important part of Welsh culture and community for centuries and it remains a vital part of the economy. You can stay at dozens of working farms throughout the country in a mixture of bed and breakfast and self-catering accommodation. Not only does it offer you a special insight into the nature of Wales, you’ll never taste fresher milk and eggs anywhere in the world. www.farmstay.co.uk/wales

Where There’s A Mill…

A luxury holiday cottage with a difference, Llancayo Windmill is a contemporary restoration of a 19th century windmill in the Monmouthshire countryside, with room for 12 guests on five floors. The mill is no longer in use, but nobody seems to have informed Mother Nature and the wind still blows as fresh as ever. www.llancayowindmill.com

Public Transport Before you get the wrong idea, we’re not suggesting you unroll your sleeping bag on the back seat of the number 195 bus from Carmarthen to Llanelli. Wendy, the Aberporth Express, is a converted Edwardian railway carriage on the West Wales coast. There is a gypsy caravan in the Black Mountains of Mid Wales that was used in the film Wind In The Willows. You can stay in a gleaming 1960s Airstream or a circus showman’s wagon. And if you fancy transporting your bedroom from one stunning location to another, why not explore the Llangollen or Monmouthshire & Brecon canals in a narrow boat? www.underthethatch.co.uk www.waterscape.com

30 Years Of Yurt Camping is not what it once was – in a good way. Sleeping under the stars now gives you the opportunity to luxuriate like never before.

The Red Kite antique Mongolian yurt is situated in the Llanthony Valley of mid Wales, has a wood burning stove and an adjoining shepherd’s hut complete with mini kitchen and shower. At the award-winning Willows campsite on North Wales’ Llyˆn Peninsula you can stay in a fully insulated Hobbit Tent, which resembles a circular, wooden tube. At Fforest Camp near Cardigan and Manorafon just 10 mile (16 km) up the West Wales coast, there is a bewildering array of accommodation, including tents inspired by traditional Dutch and Swedish structures, as well as a dome based on a British cavalry design of the 1850s. www.underthethatch.co.uk www.coldatnight.co.uk www.the-willows-abersoch.co.uk

Med Wales That’s not a spelling mistake, by the way.

Portmeirion really is a colourful and ornate Mediterranean village perched on the edge of a beautiful estuary near Porthmadog, on the north west coast of Wales. It really is a magical place, inspired, designed and built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis. You will find yourself transported into another world as soon as you cross its threshold, as peacocks strut around gardens full of rare and exotic flora and fauna. There is a variety of characterful cottage accommodation within the village of Portmeirion itself, as well as the Portmeirion and Castell Deudraeth hotels. www.portmeirion-village.com

Retreat Yourself Among the religious retreats of Wales, Pembrokeshire’s Caldey Island has been a site of religious importance since a Celtic monastery was built there in the 6th century.

It’s just a short boat trip from Tenby and there are a limited number of self-catering facilities. Groups of visitors can also stay at St Philomema’s retreat house on Caldey during spring and summer months. Tintern Abbey Cottage is not a retreat, but a lovely self-catering property in the grounds of the best-preserved Medieval abbey in Wales. www.caldey-island.co.uk www.tinternabbeycottage.co.uk For more information on the different types of accommodation available in Wales go to www.visitwales.com

Clockwise from top left: West Usk Lighthouse, Portmeirion, Fforest Camp, near Cardigan, Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal, Caldey Island, Pembrokeshire and Gwydir Castle.

this land of

Gruff Rhys is a member of Super Furry Animals and an award-winning solo artist. We can think of no one better to guide us through the festival highlights of Wales.

S

ome readers may be familiar with the British television comedy character Edmund Blackadder. In his 18th century incarnation as butler to the Prince Regent, he vividly describes visiting Wales in the early 18th century when huge gangs of tough, sinewy men roamed the country terrorising people with their close-harmony singing.

The same could be said 200 years later, particularly if you happen to visit the music venues of Cardiff during the third week in October. The ˆ N Festival is an indication of how SW the contemporary music festival has mutated – in a good way – during the 21st century. ˆ N features countless gigs in SW numerous venues all over the city, mostly showcasing new bands – raw talent, hungry for action.

So small is good, right? It certainly seems that way, as new and exciting additions spring up alongside worldrenowned Welsh festivals like Hay Festival, Brecon Jazz Festival and the National Eisteddfod.

The first Wakestock festival was held in a car park in Abersoch in 2002. A year later the inaugural Green Man Festival took place in the grounds of Craig y Nôs Castle on the fringe of the Brecon Beacons National Park. Although their combined audiences are now over 40 times the number of people who attended those first events, they’re still a fraction of the size of the tented cities that some festivals have become.

Gruff Rhys started frequenting music festivals with his family as a 40 www.visitwales.com

toddler and started performing at them in his mid-teens. He is oddly dispassionate about Wales being the land of song.

“I’d like to see some statistics to back up that statement,” he explains wryly.

“It’s possible that the people of Latvia sing two per cent more of the time than we do and I wouldn’t want to be accused of giving anyone a false impression.”

Hay Festival of Literature & Arts, Hay-on-Wye The picturesque market town of Hay-on-Wye, within the Brecon Beacons National Park, is famous as the book capital of Great Britain. This 10-day festival is rooted in literature, but the range of subjects covered include politics, music, green issues, economics, history and science.

“All the pubs and venues are full and the atmosphere spills out onto the streets.

“You get a real mix of people like Desmond Tutu, Stephen Fry and Howard Marks and there are musical events all week too.

“There’s nowhere else quite like Hay. There’s a man who runs a second-hand bookshop there who declared it an independent kingdom in the 1970s. He calls himself the King of Hay and made his horse Prime Minister. The place seems quite exotic to me.” www.hayfestival.com

Above: Performers at Merthyr Rock and Brecon Jazz Festival.

Brecon Jazz Festival, Brecon A broad range of artists from the across the jazz universe turn out for three days of musical invention in the

atmospheric market town situated in the shadows of the Brecon Beacons.

“It’s been a permanent fixture on the festival circuit since the early 80s.

You don’t immediately think ‘jazz’ when you’re visiting a market town in Mid Wales, so it’s always had a real element of surprise when I’ve visited it.

“You’ll just be wandering through town and there will be a jazz band playing an open air gig. It’s a very healthy situation.

“Super Furry Animals played there once and there was some ill-feeling generated by the local newspaper about the idea of a rock band playing the jazz festival.

“But the gig was great and there were no major incidents, I’m glad to report. It certainly hasn’t put me off the place.” www.hayfestival.com/breconjazz ˆ N Festival, Cardiff SW Celebrating new music coming in ˆ N is an urban and out of Wales, SW festival, which takes place across a number of venues in Cardiff over four days. A wristband for the festival guarantees the wearer priority entrance to all the performances taking place and with over 150 artists playing, the opportunity of discovering a new favourite band in the world is just as likely as getting to know the Welsh capital city like the back of your hand.

“A festival doesn’t need to have 100,000 people in a field watching a band while holding lighters in the air. ˆ N takes place in various venues SW all over Cardiff and as I live there it’s very handy for me. The centre of Cardiff is quite compact so it’s a very good city for this kind of festival. You can make a night of it and see three or four bands.

“When Super Furry Animals started out in the mid 90s it was very difficult to find venues in Cardiff to play.

There’s much more action now, with promoters bringing in interesting bands from all over the world. In turn they’re inspiring local bands to play interesting music that’s quite leftfield.

It’s a brave, confident environment. ˆ N is that “What’s good about SW it started really small with very little fanfare and it’s a much stronger

event for being allowed to grow organically. The organisers’ love of music is what’s driven it and earned its reputation as a great event.” www.swnfest.com Green Man Festival, Crickhowell This award-winning festival has hopped around the Brecon Beacons National Park before finding its spiritual home in the lush greenery of the Glanusk Estate. The three-day event has a leaning towards artists tinged with acoustic folk and country elements, but is by no means confined to them.

“I went to Glastonbury for the first time when I was about 16. I hitchhiked there. The Green Man reminds me of that experience in some way, almost like it belongs to another age.

“The line-up is usually dramatically different from most festival line-ups, which are becoming more and more impersonal. You know you’re going to see some bands you’ve never seen before at The Green Man and that you’re going to find something new and exciting.

“The festival brings music to Wales that wouldn’t visit here otherwise and that’s very inspiring. The headline acts are never obvious – they take risks and educate people in the process.

“It’s also really good fun.” www.greenman.net

“I went to Glastonbury for the first time when I was about 16.

I hitchhiked there. The Green Man reminds me of that experience in some way, almost like it belongs to another age.”

Gruff first performed at a festival aged 14, as drummer in a Welsh language band called Machlud (or Sunset in English). They played Pesda Roc, an event inspired by the thriving music scene around Bethesda in North Wales. He played a different incarnation of Pesda Roc in 2011, a mere 27 years after his debut – and there have been countless festival appearances in between.

Of Welsh music festivals he says: “There’s always a chance of experiencing something unexpected and exciting. You don’t always need an itinerary or go searching for excitement. You just have to be there and things will happen...”

Above: Gruff Rhys.

Left: Green Man Festival, Crickhowell.

A LITTLE FINE TUNING

Simply The Fest We don’t need much of an excuse for a party in Wales and there’s barely a week that goes by without a musical celebration of some kind.

01

Escape Into The Park, Swansea Fifty acts on five stages in the picturesque Singleton Park, near the centre of the city.

Dancing shoes are compulsory for the 20,000 or so attending this one-day jamboree of 21st century dance music. www.escapefestival.com

02

BBC Cardiff Singer Of The World, Cardiff A week-long competition staged in the Welsh capital every two years to find the next generation of talent in the fields of opera and concert singing. The temptation to call it the X-Factor for people who can really sing is irresistible… www.bbc.co.uk/wales/cardiffsinger

03

Amlwch Copperfest, Anglesey So named after the remarkable story of how the discovery of copper turned a sleepy cove into a port of global importance. This threeday free festival is split between children’s entertainment during daylight hours and Welsh bands of all styles of an evening. We really do hope Seagull Knievel will be returning this year… www.copperfest.co.uk

42 www.visitwales.com

04

Wakestock, Abersoch What started as an impromptu party in a car park now boasts to being the largest festival of its kind in Europe. Abersoch on the Llyˆn Peninsula has long been a Mecca for water sports fanatics and Wakestock came about when its founder, Mark Durston, hit upon the idea of combining three days of wakeboarding competitions and exhibitions with a music festival. www.wakestock.co.uk

05

Llangollen Eisteddfod of Music & Dance, Llangollen You can probably count the number of festivals featuring artists from Algeria, Taiwan, Ghana and the USA on the fingers of one hand. Come to think of it, you probably only need one finger. Llangollen is a striking setting for an extraordinary week of festivities featuring around 4,000 performers. www.international-eisteddfod.co.uk

06

Small Nations Festival, Llandovery We do ‘offbeat’ really well in Wales and that sums up the philosophy of this intimate three-day family-friendly festival, which attracts around 1,500 people to Glangwenlais Farm on the edge of the Cambrian Mountains. www.smallnations.co.uk

07

The North Wales Bluegrass Festival, Conwy Expect a hoedown of traditional American folk music, with banjos, violins and double bass. Not to mention beards. Camping for the four-day event is on the main festival site at Bodlondeb Park in Conwy, just a stroll from the historic castle and walled town. www.northwalesbluegrass.co.uk

08

Gw ˆ yl Gardd Goll, Felinheli The roughly-translated Lost Garden Festival takes place on a 16th century estate near the village of Felinheli on the Menai Strait between the north Wales coast and Anglesey.

An eclectic mix of artists who have performed in the past include Gruff Rhys, Echo & The Bunnymen and Badly Drawn Boy. www.gwylgarddgoll.com

09

Fishguard International Music Festival, Fishguard Featuring nine days of classical musical concerts and recitals at a variety of venues around this corner of Pembrokeshire, including the remarkable St Davids Cathedral, which has been a centre of daily worship dating back to the 6th century. www.fishguardmusicfestival.co.uk

10

Cardiff Multicultural Mela, Cardiff A public celebration of contemporary Asian culture in Wales, this one-day free festival attracts up to 30,000 people to the shores of Cardiff Bay to watch performances by bands and DJs, as well as a number of other attractions including sports workshops, Mehndi art and exotic food stalls. www.cardiffmela.com

11

The National Eisteddfod of Wales, Vale of Glamorgan This is a week-long celebration of Welsh language and culture. Despite its origins dating back to the 12th century, this is a vibrant, forward-looking event, with art exhibitions, concerts and dozens of competitions, ranging from ‘cerdd dant’ (a unique style of song), to a variety of literary prizes including The Crown and The Chair.

The Eisteddfod is held at different locations each year and over 150,000 people attend. www.eisteddfod.org.uk

12

Castell Rock, Aberystwyth A one-day free festival held in the grounds of the 12th century Aberystwyth Castle overlooking the splendour of Cardigan Bay. Castell Rock gives a platform for young musical talent of all kinds and there’s a relaxed, family-friendly appeal to the event. www.castellrock.co.uk

RUB OF THE GREEN James Yorkston is a critically acclaimed singer-songwriter who is near enough a permanent fixture on the bill each year at the Green Man Festival.

“My first Green Man was the first Green Man. It was 2003 and was held in a dilapidated mansion house in the Brecon Beacons National Park that was built by a famous Spanish opera singer of the 19th century. It was like being at the best wedding party ever. There weren’t even any boring speeches to sit through – just loads of great bands. There were 250 people at that one.

“In a nutshell I love walking around a beautiful part of the country, bumping into old friends and making new ones. Oh, and eating nice food. Yum.” www.greenman.net

13

Glass Butter Beach, Llanbedrog The brainchild of Wakestock founder Mark Durston, Glass Butter Beach is a two-day festival with a difference. As well as the opportunity to enjoy an array of music events in a stunning location on the shore of Cardigan Bay, with the mountain ranges of Snowdon as a backdrop, it also offers festival-goers the opportunity to have a go at a variety of sports like surfing, wakeboarding, paddle boarding, zorbing and kayaking, as well as running skateboard and BMX workshops. www.glassbutterbeach.com

14

Merthyr Rock, Merthyr It might be something to do with the industrial heritage of the area – hot, sweaty conditions and loud noises – but whatever the reason it is widely known that the South Wales Valleys love their rock music. Merthyr

Rock is a recent addition to the Welsh festival calendar and takes place over two days at Cyfarthfa Park, the literal Welsh translation of which is ‘barking place’. www.hayfestival.com/merthyrrock

15

North Wales International Music Festival, St Asaph The brainchild of Welsh composer William Mathias, the festival features a week of classical performances and workshops hosted at St Asaph Cathedral, where Mathias is buried. The event is traditionally launched each year with a performance by the BBC National Orchestra of Wales. www.nwimf.com

16

Soundtrack International Film and Music Festival, Cardiff and various locations The relationship between film and music has never been stronger and this festival includes premieres, Q&A sessions with musicians and directors, workshops and live music performances. www.soundtrackfilmfestival.com

For cheese festivals, wood festivals, an Elvis Festival and many other weird and wonderful festivals and events taking place in Wales this year see pages 2-9. www.visitwales.com 43

the art of a city Capital cities are traditionally known more for their commerce than their creativity, but Cardiff has both bases covered with the biggest arts prize fund in Britain as well as impressive galleries and museums.

‘A

nd the award for the richest prize in British art goes to...’ No, it’s not the Turner Prize. In fact, the clear winner in terms of both hard cash and artistic integrity is Artes Mundi, the fabulous biennial art event that takes place for the fifth time this year.

Although it’s based in Cardiff, the £50,000-plus Artes Mundi Exhibition and Prize is very much a global phenomenon, celebrating artists from around the world (its Latin name means ‘Arts of the World’).

In the past, shortlisted artists have come from places as far-flung as Israel, Finland, Scotland, China, Brazil, India, New Zealand, the Bahamas – and just once, from Wales.

What they have in common, however, is that they’re all exciting, emerging artists who look at the broad theme of ‘the human condition’: artists who really dive into the heart of what it is to be human, with all the joys and tribulations this brings.

For instance, the first winner, in 2004, was Chineseborn artist Xu Bing, whose work was made from dust collected from the streets of Manhattan in the wake of the terror attacks of 9/11.

Artes Mundi has been held every two years since 2004 and, according to The Guardian newspaper, “...its status and importance in the world of contemporary art seems to grow each time.”

After a global search, around six artists are shortlisted for a 12-week exhibition, which takes place at the National Museum of Art in Cardiff. The winner receives a £40,000 prize, while each of the shortlisted artists gets £4,000.

Ben Borthwick, Artes Mundi’s Artistic Director, said, “This year nearly 600 artists have been nominated, from almost half the countries in the world. The depth of quality in the nominations has been outstanding, and Artes Mundi 5 promises to be particularly rich in stories of lived experience from all over the world. I am incredibly excited and I am confident audiences will share that excitement when they visit the exhibition.”

This is a vital part of the Artes Mundi concept: to bring international contemporary art to a wider audience, to help people – especially the young – to develop greater understanding and love of contemporary art, and to show how art can transcend linguistic and geographic boundaries.

Artes Mundi is spreading the gospel outside the Welsh capital, too – Oriel Mostyn in Llandudno will display work by one of the shortlisted artists.

Its global influence also continues to rise, says Ben Borthwick. “This is the fifth cycle so there’s now a great awareness. It’s a big, important prize worth £40,000. It’s also a platform from which artists go on to do great things.”

Artes Mundi takes place at the National Museum of Art in Cardiff in October this year. www.artesmundi.org

A bright canvas in Cardiff National Museum of Art From old masters to contemporary installations – not to mention a superb collection of Impressionists and Post-Impressionists – Wales’s national art collection is now being showcased under one roof. www.museumwales.ac.uk Kooywood Gallery Just yards from the National Museum, this gallery showcases the best of established and emerging Welsh artists. www.kooywoodgallery.com

Martin Tinney Gallery Most of the big names in Welsh art are represented here, including Harry Holland, Sally Moore, Gwilym Prichard, Shani Rhys James and Kevin Sinnott, as well as the best of the younger generation. They also stock work by the leading 20th century Welsh artists, including Gwen John, Augustus John, Ceri Richards, Graham Sutherland, Josef Herman, Peter Prendergast and Sir Kyffin Williams. www.artwales.com

Bay Art More than a dozen artists work in this old docks building, and their creations, and those of other Welsh and international artists, are displayed in the airy ground floor gallery. www.bayart.org.uk

The Albany Gallery The Albany Gallery enjoyed a long association with the late, great Sir Kyffin Williams, and continues to exhibit some of the best contemporary art from Wales and England. www.albanygallery.com

Butetown History & Arts Centre The former Tiger Bay was Britain’s first multiracial community, and this museum/gallery both preserves its memories and celebrates its creativity through exhibitions and events. www.bhac.org

Craft in the Bay Exquisitely beautiful objects, courtesy of The Makers Guild in Wales, can be found in every corner of this striking glass building in the heart of Cardiff Bay. www.makersguildinwales.org.uk

Ffotogallery Photographic art in all its myriad forms, featuring photographers and artists from Wales and around the world. www.ffotogallery.org

For more information on other interesting things to see and do in Cardiff check out: www.visitcardiff.com www.visitwales.com www.visitwales.com 45

PLAYING TO THE GALLERY

Frame of Mind From grand old museums to contemporary art spaces, there are so many people making exhibitions of themselves all over Wales.

South Wales When the Napoleonic Wars made the Continent a bit difficult for the gentleman artist to erect his easel, he had to find other picturesque vistas, closer to home. And so the Wye Tour began in the 1780s, and has never really gone out of fashion.

By the 20th century, South Wales’s visual arts were dominated by the heavy industry that both sustained and ravaged The Valleys and coastal ports.

The works of artists like Josef Herman and Ernest Zobole vividly depicted the social and political cost.

Today, South Wales is still an artistic crucible where Welsh traditions are fused with global ones, and the post-industrial landscape is lit by brilliant flashes of colour and wit.

Newport Museum & Art Gallery, Newport The exhibitions of local art change regularly, but there’s also a good permanent collection here, which is notably strong on ceramics (300 teapots, anyone?). www.newport.gov.uk New Leaf Gallery, Monmouth A Medieval timber-framed building in the centre of Monmouth is home to a passionate young gallery staffed by knowledgable fine-art graduates. www.newleafgallery.co.uk The Art Shop, Abergavenny This is something of a hub for artists in the Abergavenny area.

Downstairs, it’s artists’ materials (paint, equipment, etc) while the 46 www.visitwales.com

Left: Oriel Plas Glyn-y-Weddw.

Below: Exhibits at Ruthin Craft Centre.

upstairs galleries show off the finished articles. www.artshopandgallery.co.uk Kingfisher Gallery, Cowbridge This is the largest of three galleries in upmarket Cowbridge, a town where you’re far more likely to find a high-end boutique than an actual cow, these days. www.kingfishergallery.co.uk Level One Art Gallery, Rhondda Heritage Park Situated in a converted colliery building and featuring art, ceramics, jewellery and turned wood, with a particular interest in work connected with the South Wales Valleys. www.rhonddaheritagepark.com

North Wales If you were to gather up all the paintings in North Wales and somehow get them into the same room – it would need to be a very big room, mind – one theme would stand out above all others. Mountains. Lots of them.

The dramatic Snowdonia landscape has always had a huge influence on the artists who pass through it. JMW Turner painted there extensively, of course.

Then in 1911-1913, the Arenig School of painters pioneered a revolutionary style of ‘automatic’ painting on the slopes of Arenig Fawr, lugging their easels up and down from dawn to dusk in search of the elusive perfect mountain moment.

In the 20th century, Sir Kyffin Williams’ bold palette-knife slashed deep into the psyche of

Welsh landscape art, and you’ll see plenty of his followers’ work in the galleries.

But there’s more to local art than chunky oils of rugged peaks.

Ruthin Craft Centre, Ruthin This major Centre for the Applied Arts was recently rebuilt – stunningly – in zinc and stone.

Beneath its undulating roofs, which echo the surrounding Clwydian Hills, there are three galleries, six artist studios, tourist information, and a café. www.ruthincraftcentre.org.uk Oriel Mostyn Gallery, Llandudno Five galleries of varied exhibitions showcase the best contemporary Welsh art, and bring to Wales some of the most interesting art being made internationally.

There’s also a shop and a rather good café. www.mostyn.org

Oriel Plas Glyn-y-Weddw, Pwllheli This lovely Gothic mansion was originally built to house the art collection of a Victorian widow (its name means ‘vale of the widow’), and it’s been fittingly transformed into a thriving arts centre, which includes an important display of porcelain. www.oriel.org.uk Royal Cambrian Academy, Conwy Founded in 1881, the Royal Cambrian Academy is a centre for artistic excellence with over 100 artist members. As well as exhibiting work by its own members, the Academy promotes up-and-coming artists and mounts historical exhibitions. www.rcaconwy.org Oriel Ynys Môn, Anglesey This purpose-built museum and gallery has fascinating

Right: Aberystwyth Arts Centre.

Oriel y Parc Gallery and Visitor Centre, St Davids and Level One Art Gallery, Rhonnda Heritage Park.

exhibitions on the cultural history of Anglesey, while Oriel Kyffin Williams is dedicated to the great man himself. There are also a variety of events and workshops, together with an excellent shop and café. www.kyffinwilliams.info

Mid Wales While some artists thrive on companionship and bustle, others just want to get as far away as possible. Out into the big empty spaces, with just a lone red kite for company, a few sheep, and just possibly, in the middle distance, a bloke on a tractor.

It’s a part of the world where people are good with their hands, making do and mending, so perhaps unsurprisingly there’s rather a lot of good pottery and sculpture, too.

Oriel Pen y Fan, Brecon Named after the mountain that looms to the south of the town, there’s a strongly Welsh flavour to this town-centre gallery, which features plenty of top-drawer painting and sculpture. www.orielpenyfangallery.co.uk Andrew Logan Museum of Sculpture, Berriew You’ve got to admire the chutzpah of the man who set

West Wales

up what he claims is “... the only museum in Europe dedicated to a living artist.” Behind the highcamp glitter, there’s a genuine one-off creative talent at work. www.andrewlogan.com Aberystwyth Arts Centre, Aberystwyth Wales’ largest arts centre has a vast artistic programme across all art forms, including drama, dance, music, visual arts, applied arts, film and new media, all set at the heart of the university campus, with stunning views over Cardigan Bay. www.aberystwythartscentre.co.uk Oriel Davies Gallery, Newtown The biggest visual arts venue in the region and a key gallery, showing groundbreaking national and international art and craft. www.orieldavies.org Moma Wales, Machynlleth Since The Tabernacle opened in 1986, it’s acquired an impressive permanent collection of 180 works by major 20th-century artists, which are shown in rotation. There’s also a series of constantly changing exhibitions, culminating in the prestigious summer Tabernacle Art Competition. www.momawales.org.uk

The west coast has the greatest concentration of art galleries anywhere in Britain. There are dozens of them, showing work by the hundreds of artists who live and work in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park and its rural hinterland.

Inland, there’s the lush castles-and-cows landscape of Wales’s agricultural heartland, where rural market towns like Carmarthen, Llandeilo, Lampeter and Newcastle Emlyn each have their own clusters of artists, whose work you can see in the local galleries.

Mission Gallery, Swansea This former church makes a terrific space in which to show off ambitious exhibitions of contemporary art, along with glass, ceramics, jewellery and textiles. www.missiongallery.co.uk Oriel y Parc Gallery and Visitor Centre, St Davids This National Park-run gallery features world-class landscapes from the National Museum’s vast collection, alongside exhibitions, a visitor centre, artist-inresidence studio, café, and the best collection of Graham Sutherland’s works. www.orielyparc.co.uk Harbour Lights Gallery, Porthgain Set in a quaint coastal village (with a very good pub), this is a great place to discover how the

Pembrokeshire landscape has inspired generations of artists. www.wales-pembs-art.com Gwili Pottery, Pontarsais Gwili has been creating domestic pottery for over 25 years, and its strong designs and sheer quality – everything is made by hand – make these both beautiful and practical works of art. www.gwilipottery.com Crafts Alive, Llandeilo A shop run by, and on behalf of, the local craft community, whose 50 members make every last piece of the beautiful, original, local craft work on sale here. www.crafts-alive.co.uk Art Matters at the White Lion Street Gallery, Tenby This friendly gallery has become an important focal point for local artists, and it’s a great place to go to find original works of art, prints, ceramics and sculpture. www.artmatters.org.uk West Wales Art Centre, Fishguard This long-established gallery’s neat trick is to combine work by established national and international artists, together with encouraging and promoting the work of up-and-coming talent. www.westwalesartscentre.com For more on the arts in Wales go to www.visitwales.com

www.visitwales.com 47

Getting to Wales Wales is easy to get to. It’s only a few hours by motorway from London. By train it’s even quicker – just two hours from London to Cardiff. It’s the same from Britain’s major airports with speedy road and rail links from Heathrow, Gatwick, Birmingham and Manchester.

GLASGOW

EDINBURGH

LIVERPOOL

Fishguard Pembroke

Mileage and journey times by car Birmingham > Aberystwyth

123

2hrs 44mins

Manchester > Caernarfon

105

2hrs 19mins

Canterbury > Cardiff

214

3hrs 51mins

Nottingham > Swansea

204

3hrs 41mins

Coventry > Barmouth

138

2hrs 56mins

Peterborough > Aberystwyth

207

4hrs 22mins

Exeter > Swansea

144

2hrs 35mins

Newcastle -upon-Tyne > Llandudno

221

4hrs 20mins

Leeds > Llandudno

126

2hrs 31mins

Reading > Carmarthen

172

3hrs 02mins

London > Cardiff

151

2hrs 53mins

York > Welshpool

152

3hrs 02mins

London > Tenby

238

4hrs 29mins

Mileage/times supplied by theaa.com

48 www.visitwales.com www.visitwales.com

By air

By rail

Travel within Wales

Services from all over the world fly into the London airports, so check with your tour operator. Birmingham, Manchester and Liverpool also have a number of international flights, whilst Bristol airport is very conveniently located for a trip to Wales.

In the UK, fast and frequent rail services run between London Paddington and Cardiff, taking only two hours. There is a half-hourly departure to Cardiff Central, with an hourly continuation to Swansea and onward connections to West Wales. Direct trains to North Wales depart from London Euston.

There’s also a rail service between London Marylebone, Shrewsbury and Wrexham. Hourly services also run from Manchester to the North Wales coast. For general rail enquiries: www.nationalrail.co.uk www.thetrainline.com

Rail services run through the regions of Wales – usually on highly scenic routes such as the Cambrian Coast, Conwy Valley and Heart of Wales lines. www.nationalrail.co.uk www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk www.scenicwales.co.uk www.heart-of-wales.co.uk

By road

When you’re out and about in the National Parks, use the convenient park and ride bus services designed to cut down on traffic:

Cardiff Airport www.tbicardiffairport.com The airport is situated in Rhoose, 12 miles (20 km) south west of Cardiff. For detailed information on how to get to and from the airport by road, rail, bus and taxi go to www.tbicardiffairport.com/en/airport A number of airlines offer direct flights to Cardiff check for more details go to www.tbicardiffairport.com/en/ destinationsandflights Other UK airports that offer easy access to Wales: Birmingham International Airport www.birminghamairport.co.uk Bristol Airport www.bristolairport.co.uk Liverpool John Lennon Airport www.liverpoolairport.com London Gatwick Airport www.gatwickairport.com London Heathrow Airport www.heathrowairport.com London Luton Airport www.london-luton.co.uk London Stansted Airport www.stanstedairport.com Manchester Airport www.manchesterairport.co.uk

National Express provides a nationwide network of express coach services linking major towns and cities in Wales as well as the UK’s principal destinations. Check out their website for special offers www.nationalexpress.com You can hop on and off the National Express network with a Brit Xplorer pass. Passes can be purchased online at www.nationalexpress.com/ coach/offers/britXplorer.aspx Megabus provides low cost intercity travel in the UK, with buses running from a number of major UK cities to Cwmbran, Newport and Cardiff. For more information go to www.megabus.com The M4/M25 motorways connect Wales with London Heathrow and London Gatwick airports. The M4 motorway extends deep into South West Wales – The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park in the far west, for example, is an easy drive of no more than a handful of hours.

In the north there’s the A55 Expressway, connecting Snowdonia and the North Wales coast with Manchester Airport and UK’s the motorway network. The Mid Wales countryside is easily reached via the M54 from the M5/M6, connecting the Heart of Wales with Birmingham Airport and Central England.

For pure pleasure why not take a ride on some of our 14 narrow gauge and steam railways.

Many are members of the Great Little Trains of Wales. www.greatlittletrainsofwales.co.uk

Brecon Beacons National Park www.breconbeacons.org/visit-us/transport Pembrokeshire Coast National Park www.pembrokeshire.gov.uk Snowdonia National Park www.snowdoniagreenkey.co.uk The Explore Wales Pass offers unlimited travel on all mainline rail services in Wales plus most scheduled bus services. Holders will also benefit from free or discounted travel on some of the narrow gauge Great Little Trains of Wales and discounted entry to many of Wales’s tourist attractions. A number of ticket options are available – The Explore Wales Pass (£84) allows 4 days’ train and 8 days’ bus travel and the Explore South Wales Pass and Explore North and Mid Wales Pass (£57 each) allow 4 days’ train and 8 days’ bus travel within each regional area. www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk/ExploreWalesPass For up-to-date and reliable public transport information including route planners use Traveline Cymru. www.traveline-cymru.info

For a handy route planner facility including driving directions and detailed maps go to www.theaa.com or www.rac.org.uk All additional information on UK road regulations can be found at www.direct.gov.uk

www.visitwales.com www.visitwales.com 49

Free brochures Find out more about Wales by choosing some of the FREE guides available. Check them out, and order or download them from www.visitwales.com

Other Visit Wales Websites There are a number of really useful Visit Wales websites to get information on the different types of activities you can try on your holiday in Wales. Whether you want to hurtle down a mountain with your rear brakes burned out, throw yourself off rugged wave lashed cliffs, fish for grayling on the River Wye, or play one of our championship golf courses – we have a website for you. So what are you waiting for?

Adventure: www.visitwales.co.uk/active

Find out more Get your holiday planning off to a good start and check out our partners’ websites for more information.

Fishing: www.fishing.visitwales.com North Wales: www.visitnorthwales.co.uk

Mountain Biking: www.mbwales.com Ceredigion: www.tourism.ceredigion.gov.uk

Mid Wales: www.exploremidwales.com

Walking: www.walking.visitwales.com South West Wales: www.southwestwales.info

Southern Wales: www.southernwales.com

Whilst every effort has been made to ensure accuracy in this publication, Visit Wales can accept no liability for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions or for any matter in anyway arising out of the publication of the information. All websites listed are checked at the time of going to press.

However, Visit Wales cannot be held accountable for any change in the content of these websites.

50 www.visitwales.com

Golf: www.golfasitshouldbe.com

Bwa Gwyn, Rhoscolyn, Anglesey.

II

II

II

I

I

II

I

I

I

I

I

I

I

I I

I I

I

II

I

I

I

I

I

I

I

I

II

I

I I II I II I

I I II I II I

I I

I I

I

II I IIII I

II I IIII I

I

I

I

I

II

I

I II I I

I I I I II

I

II

I

I I

Wander along the cliff tops of Dunraven Bay in Southerndown, part of the Glamorgan Heritage Coast Path, and you are greeted by spectacular views as the bay opens out across the Bristol Channel.

At high tide the beach is like another world – rocky and foreboding. No wonder it’s provided the setting for several scenes in the BBC TV series Doctor Who. Low tide reveals glorious golden sands and countless rock pools for exploration.

Its westerly-facing aspect makes Southerndown a favourite spot for surfers. Behind the beach, steep undulating hills provide excellent walking opportunities. The Three Golden Cups pub is nearby,as are the ghostly ruins of Dunraven Castle, once the home of the tragic Vaughan family and the ghost of the Blue Lady.

This is just one piece in the elaborate jigsaw that makes up the 870-mile (1,400 km) long Wales Coast Path, the only walk of its kind in the world. The path runs along the entire coast of Wales and there are many more sights and stories that await you.

www.visitwales.com