Vitis – Spring/Summer 2019

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B . C .

W I N E

C U L T U R E

SPRING/SUMMER 2019

Issue 03 S u m m e r i n w i n e c o u n t ry Fighting Fire B ac kc o u n t ry B ot t l e S o r a n g e yo u g l a d ?

F r a S e r Va l l e y F l aVo u r S a l S at i a n F o o d & w i n e B c S u B- a p p e l l at i o n S artiSan cheeSeS ga r ag i S t e g r e at n e S S B.c. w i n e ry l i S t i n g S

With wines starting at only $6, a view of the seawall, and great service, our Tappy Hour is the place to be.

Join us for live jazz every Wednesday from 6:00 to 9:00, and let us satisfy your thirst for rhythm.

We serve Tappy Hour every day from 3:00 to 5:00 and 10:00 to close. On Monday and Tuseday nights, we keep the fun going all night with Tappy Hour from 3:00 to close.

With the most wine by the glass in Vancouver, our award winning wine list, warm ambiance and friendly service turn every meal into a special occasion.

Come celebrate with us today.

1167 Marinaside Crescent 604.681.4144 www.thewinebar.ca

1177 Marinaside Cres 604.681.4144 www.provencemarinaside.ca

Contents

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06 – Sips & nibbles News and trends from the world of Canadian wine

Photo courtesy of Fraser Valley Tourism

12 – W INE LIFE Pairing wine with the great outdoors

by Barb Wild 16 – OENOPHILE Orange wine: How Ontario became a world leader

by Michael Di Caro 18 – B.C. Wine Country How Grüner was my Valley

by Joanne Sasvari 24 – F IGHTING FIRE Where there’s smoke, there’s solutions

by Joanne Sasvari

32 – WORLD WINE Following the winding wine trail through Alsace

by Daenna Van Mulligen

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36 – In the Vineyard What’s up with sub-apps: a primer

by Tim Pawsey 40 – Food for Thought Savouring B.C.’s artisan cheeses

by Cinda Chavich

Jennifer Gauthier photo

44 – Listings Your guide to B.C.’s wineries 58 – Wine Geek Garagiste: A trend that’s here to stay

by Laura Starr

PUBLISHER: Gail Nugent • gnugent@glaciermedia.ca

SOCIAL MEDIA editor: Kelsey Klassen

EDITOR: Joanne Sasvari • jsasvari@glaciermedia.ca

Contributing photographer: Jennifer Gauthier (cover)

DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER: Tara Rafiq • trafiq@glaciermedia.ca

Vitis.ca @VitisMag • @VitisMag

Published by: Glacier Media Group 303 W. 5th Ave., Vancouver, BC V5Y 1J6 604-742-8678 © Vitis 2019 This issue is complimentary.

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Contributors JOANNE SASVARI is editor of Vitis and The Alchemist magazines. She is a WSET-certified writer who covers food and drink for publications including WestJet and Vancouver Sun, and is the author of the Wickaninnish and Vancouver Eats cookbooks.

CINDA CHAVICH is a Victoria-based food and wine journalist. She covers food and drink for YAM, EAT and TasteReport.com, has written for The Globe and Mail, WestJet and Maclean’s, and is author of The Waste Not, Want Not Cookbook.

MICHAEL DI CARO is a writer and the editor of Vitis Ontario. He has been covering the Ontario wine industry for over a decade. You can find him in the cellar or among the vines uncovering the stories behind the bottle.

TIM PAWSEY writes and shoots at hiredbelly. com as well as for publications including Quench, TASTE and Montecristo. He’s a frequent wine judge and is a founding member of the B.C. Hospitality Foundation.

LAURA STARR is a freelance writer, sommelier and educator, with 20 years under her belt in the hospitality industry. She is also the wine editor of VITA Magazine, and sits on the board of directors for the BCHF. DAENNA VAN MULLIGEN is a sommelier, educator, keynote speaker and radio host who launched WineDiva.ca 15 years ago, and WineScores.ca soon after. She is also a regular contributor to TASTE, Vines and Montecristo magazines.

Jennifer Gauthier photo

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he warm, sunny days of summer are beckoning us out on the road. Here at Vitis, we have loads of great ideas for exciting places to go and delicious things to taste.

In this issue: We explore wine destinations near and far, from the Fraser Valley to fairytale Alsace, where Daenna Van Mulligen indulges in pretzels and Riesling.

Barb Wild advises on wines to bring to the great outdoors, Cinda Chavich suggests cheeses for your picnic basket and Laura Starr explains what “garagiste” wines are and why you should care.

On the serious side, we look at how wildfires are affecting wine country, while Tim Pawsey demystifies what’s going on with B.C.’s new sub-appellations.

And there’s big news for Vitis—we’re growing! Meet Michael Di Caro, the editor of our brand-new Ontario edition, and check out his story on Ontario’s orange revolution, page 16.

For all this and so much more, follow along at vitis.ca.

The road is calling. Meet you all in wine country!

BARB WILD is the Good Wine Gal, and her goal is to help people discover what they like—without snobbery. Follow Good Wine Gal’s life of wine study, wine tastings and wine travel at goodwinegal.ca.

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—Joanne Sasvari, editor

WINERY OF THE YEAR 2018/2019 InterVin International Wine Awards

4 0 0 SMY THE DRIV E , PENTIC TON BC 250 493 6809 PAI N T E DROCK.CA

OUR ROOTS RUN DEEP.

Wines of distinction that are an intensely flavoured expression of our historic vineyard.

W W W. H E S T E R C R E E K . C O M

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Sips & Nibbles Vitis Staff

dow n t o b u s i n e ss Beyond its romantic image, wine is also a business, and in B.C. it’s an important one.

In fact, it contributes some $2.8 billion a year to the province’s economy, according to the BC Wine Institute. Here are some key developments in the drinks business in Canada.

Pinot Gris grape harvest in the Okanagan Valley. istockphoto.com/laughing mango photo

Cool to be Canadian If Dr. Jamie Goode has one piece of advice for Canadian winemakers, it’s simple: “Stop making the shit.”

The UK-based wine writer and academic was part of an expert panel speaking at the recent Vancouver International Wine Festival symposium on Canada’s place in global wine markets. Their conclusion? Although Canadian wine is almost unknown globally, where this country is right now is in many ways where the rest of the world wants to be. Specifically, we are making authentic, terroir-driven wines with a cool-climate sensibility and an enviable diversity both of styles and the people producing them.

These are wines that can demand high prices and critical respect, both at home and abroad. The risk is in aiming low

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“Canada is at a fascinating point

because there is so much good wine being made. It’s what you’re doing now that will determine the future. and becoming known for producing inexpensive, high-volume wine—once that happens in a region, it’s hard to gain attention for its finer wines. (Looking at you, Argentinean Malbec.)

“Canada is at a fascinating point because there is so much good wine being made,” Goode said. “It’s what you’re doing now that will determine the future.”

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Producers of Canadian wine received at least one bit of good news in the federal budget tabled in March: the promise to change the law restricting shipment of alcohol between provinces.

It’s long been a bitter irony that it, if you live in Ontario, it’s easier to get a bottle of wine from Chile than it is to get one from B.C. Now, at long last, it looks like that might start to change.

The federal government has proposed changing the Importation of Intoxicating Liquor Act “to remove the federal requirement that alcohol moving from one province to another be sold or consigned to a provincial liquor authority.”

istockphoto.com/ Tommy Lee Walker photo

Bottles without borders (maybe)

In other words, if the change is approved, you can finally have a six-pack of Tawse Meritage legally shipped to your door. That said, there is an election coming up in October, so who knows what will actually happen?

A competitive spirit

David Eby. Dan Toulgoet photo

In even more potentially good news for restaurateurs, retailers and consumers alike, in January Canada’s competition watchdog urged the B.C. government to change some of its most restrictive rules around alcohol sales: specifically, where restaurants can buy their booze, and how much they have to pay for it.

In an open letter to B.C. Attorney General David Eby, Matthew Boswell, the Commissioner of Competition at the Competition Bureau of Canada, recommended allowing the province’s hospitality businesses to purchase beverage alcohol from either government or private stores and permitting them to pay a wholesale price.

Currently, bars and restaurants can only purchase alcohol from government liquor stores and have to pay the full retail price. Not surprisingly, they’ve been asking for these changes for decades.

Eby has promised to consider the issue.

Fortify yourself If you produce beer, wine, cider or sprits in B.C. and haven’t put November 19 into your calendar yet, what are you waiting for? That’s the date of the second Fortify Artisan Fermenters and Distillers Business Conference and Tradeshow in Penticton, and it’s a must for anyone in the trade.

Organized by Sandra Oldfield, president of Elysian Projects Inc., the conference offers advice on everything from working with media to getting government funding, dealing with lenders, hiring (and firing) staff, passing liquor inspections and so much more. fortifyconference.ca

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The best from the fest

DJ Kearney. Christine McAvoy photo for the Vancouver International Wine Festival.

ni b b l e s

The Vancouver International Wine festival is more than an opportunity to taste hundreds of wines from around the world. It’s also a chance to recognize those who are elevating wine professionalism right here at home. Here are the top winners of the trade days competitions, announced on March 1 at the 16th Annual Awards Lunch.

Matthew Landry. Christine McAvoy photo

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Spirited Industry Professional The standing O went on, and on, and on, when DJ Kearney was named the 14th recipient of this prestigious award for an individual who has made a significant contribution to the sales, service or promotion of wine in British Columbia. Kearney is one of B.C.’s most passionate advocates for wine culture, an instructor, writer, consultant, judge, critic and former chef. She has been vice-president of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (B.C. Chapter), a member of Les Dames d’Escoffier, the technical director for the best sommelier of both B.C. and Canada competitions, and most recently was the curator of the Judgment of B.C. Sommelier of the Year Matthew Landry, general manager/beverage director at The Stable House Bistro, took home this hard-fought title after a handson competition organized by the B.C. chapter of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers. Previously, Landry had earned his sommelier certification through the Court of Master Sommeliers, finished the WSET Level 3 Advanced, and completed the French and Italian Wine Scholar programs. As Sommelier of the Year, Matthew receives Delta Air Lines vouchers valued at US $2,000 from the festival.

Wine Program Excellence Also known as the wine list awards, these recognize the best food-and-wine pairings at restaurants throughout British Columbia and Alberta. This year saw seven platinum award winners, all from Vancouver: L’Abattoir, AnnaLena, Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar, Chambar, CinCin Ristorante + Bar, Hawksworth Restaurant and Nightingale. For the full list of winners and honourable mentions, as well as all other festival news, go to VanWineFest.ca.

The 2020 edition of the Vancouver International Wine Festival takes place February 22 to March 1, with France as the feature country and, of course, Bard on the Beach as its charitable partner. See you all there!

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A n e w dA n c e At F oX t r o t Here at Vitis we’re not sure what’s more exciting, that Foxtrot Vineyards will finally have a tasting room, or that its new owners include the burgundy expert who helped unmask the notorious wine counterfeiter rudy kurniawan.

Since 2002, Foxtrot founders torsten and kicki allander have been producing some of b.C.’s most elegant, cult-worship-worthy pinot noirs on their naramata bench property. last summer, they decided it was time to retire and sold the winery to Douglas barzelay and nathan todd. todd is a former Calgarian with roots in the Okanagan Valley; barzelay is a new york lawyer who is also one of the world’s foremost experts on the wines of burgundy. He even wrote a book—no, make that the book—about them, a hefty tome called Burgundy Vintages: A History from 1845, created in partnership with allen Meadows of burghound (uS $79.99 at burghound.com). the allanders’ son Gustav is staying on as winemaker, and barzelay has said he has no plans to change “the formula that has brought Foxtrot such success.” One thing the new owners are changing, though, is adding a tasting room, open by appointment only, likely early this summer. We can hardly wait. foxtrotwine.com

A Food HALL F o r t H e o K A n AgA n

From left, Cocktails and Canapes founders brett and Olivia turner with son Max, alongside Dana ewart and Cameron Smith, founders of Joy road Catering.

Liz Tremblay, Aviva Photography photo

Joy road’s Fork in the highway After years of serving up their signature farm-to-table wine-country fare everywhere from God’s Mountain Estate to the Penticton Farmer’s Market, Cameron Smith and Dana Ewart have decided it’s time to take another road, or at least a slight detour.

And so the Okanagan Valley’s go-to boutique caterers have sold Joy Road Catering to the Lower Mainland’s Cocktails and Canapes Catering and Events.

Don’t panic! This is only a change in ownership, at least for now. Smith and Ewart are staying on for at least a year; all staffing and menu items will remain the same, and it’ll be business as usual for any 2019 bookings.

They also say the two companies have a similar philosophy and shared values, and the plan is for Joy Road “to successfully continue for years to come.” Even better news? Smith and Ewart have said that this sale will help “open ourselves up to other opportunities,” and we can’t wait to see what those opportunities will be. cocktailscanapes.ca. joyroadcatering.com

the food hall trend is a new-old concept that has taken off in recent years and has finally landed in kelowna, specifically at Summerhill pyramid Organic Winery. this summer the winery, under the leadership of executive winery chef Jeremy luypen, is launching the Canadiana Small plates Food Hall. as winery owner Stephen Cipes says, “We are launching authentic, ethnic, organic, wine-paired small plates for those on the move or for order-to-go with quick service. this complements our fabulous casual-gourmet, organic, 200-seat restaurant.” the family-friendly Summerhill food hall will feature a picnic area with a view, where guests can enjoy dishes that reflect the heritage of Canadians, including the culinary traditions of First nations, German, Syrian, polish, russian, Mexican, Japanese, indian, Chinese and other nationalities. summerhill.bc.ca

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upCOMinG eVentS Get ready for an action-packed summer in wine country.

Here are just a few events to add to your calendar.

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o K A n AgA n s p r i n g w i n e F e s t i vA L may 3 to 12 So many events; so little time. Grab your tasting glass and check out all the dinners, lunches, classes, wine-pairing events, even wine-enhanced golf, yoga and an escape room, throughout the Okanagan Valley.

Don’t miss the Spring WestJet Wine tastings, featuring more than 250 b.C. wines, May 3 and 4, and the iron Sommelier british Columbia competition on May 10. thewinefestivals.com

B c tA s t i n g gA m e s F i n A L e may 21 Master of Wine rhys pender hosts this lively blind-tasting competition with a side of audience participation. at each of the three divisional events (april 23, May 7, May 14), three celebrated wine experts blind taste five wines and try to guess what they are—while the audience does the same. the winners and the top-scoring audience members go on to compete in the finale. tickets include a wine-tasting flight, small bites and a whole lot of fun. tastinggames.ca

t o p d r o p vA n c o u v e r may 23 to 24 Handcrafted, terroir-driven wines (as well as craft beer and cider) are the focus of this two-day celebration of delicious sustainability. thursday night, it’s all about food and wine at restaurants like Wildebeest, Mamie taylor’s and bodega on Main; on Friday, it’s the grand tasting at the yaletown roundhouse. topdrop.ca

H A L F c o r K e d m A r At H o n w e e K e n d may 24 to 26 On your marks, get set . . . sip! Costumed runners scamper through the vineyards around Oliver, stopping here and there for a taste of wine. but this fun run—named the Canadian tourism awards’ Canadian event of the year in 2017—is so much more than that. there’s the carb-loading primavera pasta dinner beforehand and, afterward, the party! at the Finish line, a fun afternoon of entertainment, food, wine, friends and family. race tickets are only available by lottery, which is now closed, but you can still enjoy the finish line festivities. oliverosoyoos.com

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c H e F m e e t s B c g r A p e —tA s t e o F t H e o K A n AgA n june 8 this festival-style outdoor extravaganza at historic See ya later ranch in Okanagan Falls has become one of the highlights of summer in wine country. it features tastings from 45 b.C. wineries, as well as wine masterclasses, chef demonstrations, wine and food pairings, and a variety of food stations with dishes prepared by the country’s top chefs. winebc.com

grAnd sommeLier eXpress june 22 all aboard this heritage steam train as it whisks you through Summerland to the kVr station for a party featuring live music and gourmet food paired with local wines, cider, beer and spirits. While on board you’ll enjoy breathtaking scenery and wine with local vintners, all in an atmosphere of old-world elegance. bottleneckdrive.com

FeAst oF FieLds August 11 this wandering gourmet harvest festival highlights the connections between farmers and chefs, field and table, farm folks and city folks. With wine glass and linen napkin in hand, guests wander through the grounds at kelowna’s Caldwell Heritage Farm, tasting gourmet creations from b.C.’s top chefs, farmers, fishers, ranchers, food artisans, vintners, brewers and distillers. feastoffields.com

n A r A m AtA B e n c H w i n e r i e s A s s o c i At i o n tA i L gAt e pA r t y september 14 pop the corks and celebrate the harvest with this fun annual event at the naramata Heritage inn. there will be food, wine, live music and all your wine-loving friends— there’s simply no better way to spend a fall weekend in wine country. naramatabench.com

F r e A K ’ n FA r m e r september 22 anyone who’s ever worked on a farm knows that it’s not a job for the faint of heart. this annual event at Covert Farms near Oliver adapts those traditional farmhand tasks to a tough obstacle-course-style competition that has to be seen to be believed. freaknfarmer.ca

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Summer sipping H i k ing boots . B ac k pac k . C or k scre w ?

H o w to pac k w ine on y our outdoor ad v entures

W I N E

L I F E

Barb Wild

Wine makes moments spent in nature even more beautiful. The key is to make it portable (and of course to follow local rules). istockphoto.com/ClarkandCompany photo

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few summers ago, a couple of adventurers wandered into the wine shop where I worked. They wanted to take wine on their kayaking adventure, but this kind of trip has restrictions. Space is limited, waste can’t be left behind and everything has to be waterproof. We discussed the benefits of cans, which can be easily chilled, opened and crushed in every sense of the word. (Compact them for recycling on your return.)

We considered screw-cap bottles, which were a bit heavier and larger, but still easy to open, close and recycle. The winner was the undervalued bag-in-box. Here’s why you might choose each one.

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“What could be more satisfying

istockphoto.com/altmodern photo

than bubbles in the back country?

TINY BUBBLES What could be more satisfying than bubbles in the back country? Canned bubbly like bling, a sparkling wine made by the view in Kelowna, fits nicely into a pack ($17.99 for a six-pack of white or rosé). It’s flavourful and aromatic, with a hint of sweetness—lovely on its own, or it pairs well with crackers and cheese. If your tastes are more upscale, consider half-bottles of Champagne, like veuve Cliquot, the golden-labelled queen ($42.99 for 375 mL). Nothing goes better with freshshucked beach oysters! No flutes? No problem. Stemless wine glasses are totally sensible here. Check out govino. com for recyclable, reusable, plastic stemless glassware, including flutes.

SCREWCAP OR CORK If you are a traditionalist who prefers wine under cork, don’t hesitate to pack it. A double-hinged somm-style corkscrew ($16.95 at Crate & Barrel) is a multi-purpose tool, with a capsule-cutting blade that will be handy for twine or twigs, as well. (Your actual utility knife or multi-purpose tool probably has a basic corkscrew, too.) Half-bottles are easy to pack and all you really need for a picnic à deux. Among the top B.C. choices for cork closures, Naramata Bench’s kettle valley winery gets top marks for its aged, savoury Pinot noir reserve ($22 for 375 mL), perfect with cold roast chicken and potato salad. If you like to travel light, then a screw-cap bottle is your thing. Try blends from le vieux Pin like Petit blanc or Petit rouge. Both styles deliver great quality ($15 for 375 mL) and are great on their own or with charcuterie and spreadable cheeses.

BOTTLE OR BOX Is your adventure longer than a few days? A three-litre bag-in-box format is the equivalent of four bottles, or about 20 glasses of wine. For paddling or boating trips, the genius hack is to strip away the cardboard so you can chill the wine by tying the bag onto a rope and dragging it in the water behind you. This way the wine stays cool, the weight is distributed and the wine remains fresh over the duration of the trip because its vacuum-seal inner pouch doesn’t let air, water or anything else in. This format is also popular with the RV crowd, who know that it’s the best bang-for-the-buck quality wine. The three-litre bag-in-box of hester Creek Pinot gris and/or Cabernet merlot ($56) works out to less than $15 a bottle.

Finally: You always should drink responsibly, which means noting the rules for alcohol consumption wherever you picnic or camp. But whether it’s five days in a kayak, a weekend tenting in the back country or an entire summer cruising in an RV, there is a wine packaged smartly, just for you.

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c o n t e n t s p o n s o r e d

Poplar Grove’s Holler family, from left to right: Matt Holler, Mei-Lan Holler, Chris Holler, Soren Holler, Barb Holler, Tony Holler, Eric Holler, Andrew Holler. Jon Adrian photo

The Legacy of Poplar Grove I t ’ s all in th e fa m ily at th e iconic N a r a m ata B e nch win e r y

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here’s a lot of talk about legacy these days at Poplar Grove Winery.

In part, it’s because of The Legacy, the refined but powerful Bordeaux blend that won the fourth annual “Judgment of BC,” conquering an impressive field of international wines in October 2018.

But mostly, it’s because Poplar Grove is a very rare winery that is truly a family operation. “A family member is involved in every aspect of the business from the vineyards to the production facility and the tasting room,” says Tony Holler, the winery’s President and Owner.

Founded in 1993, Poplar Grove was one of the first five wineries on the Naramata Bench, known from its earliest days for producing wines of character and elegance.

In 2007, the Hollers—who have deep family roots in the Okanagan—bought Poplar Grove from its original owner.

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From the beginning, they made an important decision.

“I’m a big believer that you should grow the varietal on the land it was meant to grow on and plant your own vineyards,” Holler says. The Hollers bought land in distinct locations that supported growing specific varietals.

About half the vineyards are in Osoyoos, the hottest location in the valley, and the other half are on the Naramata Bench, a much milder site to grow grapes.

While Tony oversaw the building of the beautifully contemporary new tasting room and production facility on a bluff above Penticton, his wife Barb took on the vineyards. Barb owns and manages over 100 acres of vineyards, suitably named Holler Estate Vineyards.

“When we started planting grapes, Barb took an interest ‘I like this,’ she said,” Tony Holler recalls.

All four of the Hollers’ sons eventually answered the call of the vineyards. “Chris, Andrew, Matthew and Eric have all joined the business. Eric, my youngest son, went to

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“ I’m a big believer that you should grow the varietal on the land it was meant to grow on.

Poplar Grove Winery perches on a hill above Penticton, with spectacular views of the Okanagan Valley. Jon Adrian photo

New Zealand and received a bachelor’s degree in oenology and viticulture,” says Holler. Today, Eric works in the production facility, while Andrew oversees the Naramata Bench vineyards, Matthew is responsible for the Osoyoos vineyards, and Chris, the eldest, works in the winery.

In each case, they learned the business from the ground up, toiling in the fields with the seasonal workers. They also continue to learn from the international wine consultant Alain Sutre, who mentors them through the myriad aspects of the business.

That hard work and smart collaboration has produced a crateful of award-winning wines, including The Legacy, a “next-world Okanagan wine” that combines the elegance and structure of the Old World with the fresh fruit and juicy drinkability of the New. Poplar Grove also produces several whites, a rosé and four single-variety reds, including the Cabernet Franc that continues to win international awards. Next, the

Hollers are adding a Pinot Noir to the lineup, now that they’ve found the perfect location on the Naramata Bench.

“The thing that I’m most proud of, and I can’t take any credit for this, is the consistent quality of the wines,” Holler says. “We’re making wine that people love and that’s exactly what I want to do. It’s a tribute to Stefan Arnason and the winemaking team that we can do it year after year.”

Now that’s a legacy to be proud of.

For more information, visit: Poplar Grove Winery 425 Middle Bench Rd. North, Penticton 250.493.9463 poplargrove.ca

This project is supported by the BC Government’s Buy BC Partnership Program; delivered by the Investment Agriculture Foundation of BC with funding from the Government of British Columbia

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Ontario’s orange revolution are consumers w illing to j oin the cause ?

o e no p h i l e

Michael Di Caro

Orange wine may be a new trend, but it’s actually an ancient technique. istockphoto.com/gregory_lee photo

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ack in 2014, when Ann Sperling made her first orange wine from Vidal grapes, Ontario’s Vintners Quality Alliance flatly refused to certify it. That motivated the Niagara winemaker to seek an official rule change and, on Canada Day in 2017, Ontario became only the second region in the world to grant orange wine its own category, making the province a global leader in one of the most exciting wine trends going.

But are consumers ready to embrace a new colour and category of wine?

Whether you call them amber, orange or the VQA’s technical “skin-fermented white wines,” they are the result of winemakers processing white grapes as they would red ones, by crushing and fermenting them on their skins. Having some characteristics of both white and red wine, without truly being either, orange wines are hard to define.

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While regulating orange wines is new, the style is ancient. Friuli, Italy, has been making it for centuries and in Georgia, the birthplace of wine, its history stretches back to the first fermented grapes.

Sperling is the person largely responsible for Ontario’s definition and rule change. The winemaker and viticulturist at Niagara’s biodynamic Southbrook Vineyards came of age on her family’s Sperling Vineyards in Kelowna, which she still co-owns. She believes wine is grown, not made. She is an evangelist for growing grapes organically and holistically, and sees orange wine as a natural extension of what she preaches in the vineyard.

When VQA Ontario denied her orange Vidal certification in 2014, she submitted the paperwork for an official rule change. The VQA responded by assembling a panel of winemakers who debated and decided the set of rules that the VQA would eventually adopt. They opted for

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“People ask me if orange wine’s a fad. It’s legit. largely inclusive framework, except for a minimum 10day fermentation on the skins, more than twice as long as South Africa, which in 2015 became the first jurisdiction to regulate orange wine. Ontario wanted to go beyond mere skin contact and ensure the wines were entirely intentional, explains Sperling.

Since then, VQA Ontario has received only positive feedback, says executive director Laurie Macdonald. She views the process as a “poster child” and proof that VQA is set up to evolve. “It blazes a trail for the industry showing we can make these changes,” Macdonald says. “It’s a living document and we just have to keep it up to date.”

But not everyone is as satisfied. “As with everything the VQA does, I think it could’ve been done better, but at least they got around to doing it instead of dismissing a whole category of wine,” says Josh Corea, sommelier and co-owner of Toronto wine bar Archive.

For him, the motivation behind an orange wine category was wineries taking a financial hit. One of the quirks and perks of VQA Ontario is how tax rebates are tied to certification subject to a tasting panel—without certification, a winery earns less than half of what a certified wine would when selling to a restaurant.

The situation is different in British Columbia, where the BC VQA allows 100 per cent B.C.-grown wines a path to market even if they are uncertified, and without financial penalty. That’s why Christine Coletta doesn’t foresee the province following Ontario’s orange path.

“I applaud what Ontario has done as a great first step towards understanding this category of wine as a whole,” says Coletta, owner of Okanagan Crush Pad and a pioneer of the style in Canada. Instead, B.C.’s focus is on defining sub-appellations, and she sees that as “fundamentally more beneficial” for the province’s wines.

Underlying Ontario’s orange wine embrace is a generational shift in front of the bar and in the cellar.

Trail Estates’ winemaker Mackenzie Brisbois makes one of the province’s most diverse lineups of orange wines. They represent in part “going back to the old ways”; part experimenting in a region writing its first chapters; and part “trying to do better for the planet and people” by treading lighter in the way she makes wine.

Corea attributes the rise of orange wine to the generation of millennial winemakers like Brisbois meeting halfway with millennial craft beer lovers. They happily trade highly hopped IPAs for natural wines that have the “familiar stranger funk” that skin fermentation brings.

“People ask me if orange wine’s a fad. It’s legit. It’s not going away,” says Corea, noting that at Archive, orange wines outsell whites in winter. “Imagine how foolish it

2017 Southbrook Estate skin-fermented Vidal.

Michael Di Caro photo

It’s not going away.

sounds dismissing a whole style of wine. The best orange wines to me are as good as any light red wine in terms of elegance and finesse.”

Sperling also sees orange wine bringing a new crowd to the tasting room. “There’s no boundaries with orange wine,” she says. “It’s broadening the base for wine, bringing new people in to taste and explore. And it’s such a food-friendly wine that you can throw out some pairing rules.”

After all, isn’t everything more fun when you break some rules?

SI X B . C . o r a n g e w i n e s t o t ry Sperling Vineyards Natural Amber Pinot Gris 2017 (Kelowna, $30): Bergamot, jasmine, stonefruit, dry.

Nichol Vineyards Pinot Gris 2017 (Naramata, $23): Salmonberry, apricot, ginger, citrus, orchard fruit.

Stag’s Hollow Viognier Marsanne 2016 (Okanagan Falls, $22): Golden, lemon curd, orange peel, white pepper, meaty.

Little Farm Pied de Cuve Riesling 2016 (Similkameen Valley, $30): White flowers, white peach, lemon, honey, lime, stony, dry.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Innovation Series Kerner Orange Wine (Golden Mile, $30): Mango, pineapple, pear, spice.

Free Form White 2017 (Summerland, $30): Bright, juicy, guava, pineapple, floral.

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Hidden in plain sight disco v er the F raser Valle y ’ s charming w ine scene Joanne Sasvari

B . C .

W in e

C o u n t r y

W

ith a cluster of wineries less than an hour away, you’d think Vancouverites would be hightailing it out to Langley every chance they could for a sip of Siegerrebe or a taste of Brawny Tawny.

Yet in many ways the Fraser Valley remains B.C.’s best-kept wine secret.

That’s too bad, because this sprawling region is becoming a serious destination for food and wine lovers.

Head out on Highway 1 and the glittering condo towers and traffic snarl quickly give way to wide green fields, the misty Cascade Mountains in the distance and the mighty Fraser River flowing placidly through the valley, nearing the end of its 1,375-kilometre journey from the Rocky Mountains. Over millennia, the river has left rich deposits here that make this some of the most fertile land in Canada. That, plus its temperate climate and abundant rainfall, makes the Fraser Valley ideal for raising dairy and growing hops, berries, vegetables and some wine grapes.

This is not a region for big, tannic reds or austere, mineral-driven whites. Mostly, you will find soft, delicate, food-friendly whites, rosés, bubbles and a few reds, including a fair number made from the hybrid grapes that are gaining new respect in the wine world. If you do stumble across an inky Cab or Syrah, the grapes likely travelled from the Okanagan.

Most of the wineries are gathered around the communities of Langley and Abbotsford.

Langley is actually three communities in one: the city, the township and, within the township, the charming village of Fort Langley, with its boutiques, galleries, restaurants and the famous historic site considered the birthplace of British Columbia. Greater Langley, however, is where you will find the wineries.

The oldest of them, dating back to 1975, is Chaberton Estate Winery, where winemaker Andrea Lee makes award-winning aromatic whites and bright, juicy reds. At nearby Township 7 Vineyards & Winery, Mary McDermott produces crisp

RIGHT: Backyard Vineyards offers a wine-country experience virtually in, yes, Vancouver’s backyard. Jennifer Kirk photo OPPOSITE PAGE: Abbotsford’s Singletree Winery is gaining recognition for Grüner Veltliner and Siegerrebe. Justine Russo photo

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“Mostly, you will find soft, delicate, food-friendly

whites, rosĂŠs, bubbles and a few reds, including a fair number made from the hybrid grapes that are gaining new respect in the wine world.

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“Bring a cooler, a map

B . C .

W in e

C o u n t r y

and your appetite.

20

ABOVE: Grapes await the harvest at Vista D’oro Farms & Winery in Langley.

Photo courtesy of Tourism Langley RIGHT: Chaberton Estate Winery is the oldest in the Langley area, and home to the appealing Bacchus Bistro. Photo courtesy of Tourism Langley

bubbles from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown on site, as well as big reds from the winery’s sister property on the Naramata Bench. Backyard Vineyards produces everything from crisp whites to a Port-style fortified. Also making a terrific fortified is Vista D’oro Farms & Winery, whose luscious D’oro is flavoured with green walnuts grown on the property.

Just a short hop away is Abbotsford, a community whose downtown has undergone a remarkable transformation in recent years, preserving its historic character while welcoming hip new boutiques and eateries like Duft & Co. Bakehouse and Spruce Collective.

Its wineries are mostly up around Mt. Lehman, and they offer a visitor experience that is as charming as the wines they make. Singletree especially has been gaining recognition for winemaker AnCircle round drew Etsell’s floral and fruity Siegerrebe The best way to dig out the Fraser Valley’s and crisply lemony Grüner Veltliner. At hidden rural gems is to take a self-guided Seaside Pearl Farmgate Winery, visitors Circle Farm Tour. can sample sparkling white wine in an old chapel. Mt. Lehman Winery specialThese country drives cover the communities of izes in limited-edition wines, including Abbotsford, Agassiz/Harrison Mills, Chilliwack, its flagship Pinot Noir and richly fortified Langley and Maple Ridge/Pitt Meadows, and will Brawny Tawny. lead you to cheesemakers, honey producers, And that’s just a small taste of what dairies, garlic growers, flower gardens, berry the Fraser Valley has to offer. Come the patches, grain mills and farm markets. There are next sunny weekend, why not hop in your also cafés, bistros and breweries to visit, and a car and discover its farm markets, craft handful of boutique hotels should you decide to breweries, cheeseries and, of course, its extend your stay. wineries?

Bring a cooler, a map and your appeFor more info, visit circlefarmtour.com. tite. A whole valley full of delicious things is waiting for you.

ISSUE 03

Villa Delia Hotel & Cooking School, Tuscany, Italy.

Opening in 2019.

DI UMBERTO

Wine & history Perfectly paired.

1342 Hornby Street, Vancouver 604 669-2422 • umberto.com Villa Delia, Tuscany: inquire@umberto.com

S H A P E D B Y N AT U R E

Introducing Free Form.

Tastings available at Okanagan Crush Pad winery.

16576 Fosbery Road, Summerland, BC | 250.494.4445 | okanagancrushpad.com

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New connections

s p onso r e d

con t e n t

I ndigenous World Winer y brea k s barriers to blend F irst N ations histor y w ith w ine

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Bernice and Robert Louie had a dream to open a fully Indigenous-owned winery on reserve land in Kelowna, B.C. David McIlvride photo

L

ong before there were grape vines, resource industries and sun seekers populating the Okanagan Valley, there were the Syilx people. Around 3,000 years ago, as many as 12,000 Indigenous people lived in the area, hunting, fishing and gathering plants for food and medicine, and moving throughout the valley as the seasons changed.

After the gold rush of 1858 came the onset of agriculture, with fruit orchards and ranches slowly transforming the landscape, as well as the introduction of imported grape vines, leading to the booming wine culture we know the region for today.

As a child, Robert Louie worked in the vineyards and vegetable gardens of his neighbours. The former chief of the Westbank First Nation, whose childhood home on the reserve lacked both running water and electricity, recalls wondering why his family wasn’t growing grapes themselves.

“My families have always worked on the land and have been historically very, very poor, but very rich in the culture and the language and the respect of the land,” he says. “Going into the vineyards, planting the vineyards

for other people, I always had the thought, ‘Why am I working for somebody else? Why can't we start our own business? Why do we have to report to someone else and always be poor?’”

In 2016, after decades spent in business and various leadership positions, Robert and his wife, Bernice, saw the realization of this dream: They opened Indigenous World Winery, Canada’s first wholly Indigenous-owned winery, on the reserve they both called home.

From wine labels that carry traditional Syilx family names and Indigenous artworks, to seasonal and foraged fare at the Red Fox Club restaurant, to the immensely popular spirit charms in the winery gift shop, every detail of the experience has been curated to incorporate Indigenous culture with the world of wine.

Ponder the thousands of years of history in wines like the Hee-Hee-Tel-Kin blends—named in honour of the Louies’ youngest son, and apprentice winemaker, Trenton. Hee-Hee-Tel-Kin, a First Nations name that has been passed down for generations, translates into “a mystical high-country stag with large antlers." Simo, the winery’s

ISSUE 03

“We’re not here just to be average, we want to excel.

It’s having that connection to the land.

indigenous World Winery’s estate Muscat Vineyard in West kelowna. the Muscat won gold at the 2018 bC best of Varietal Wine awards competition. David McIlvride photo

flagship wine, means “connected to the land,” and is the Syilx name given to Robert Louie by his grandmother. And the winery’s first two sparkling wines, La'p Cheet, meaning “the shimmer of light on a stream,” and Ho-We-Nam Ho-We-Nem, meaning “hummingbird,” were named for their daughters, Cassandra and Kassina, respectively.

One of the winery’s most anticipated releases is its next sparkling. The third in the series named for the women of the Louie family, this wine will honour the mother grizzly bear, Bernice, and reveal the story behind her Syilx name.

“It really makes me feel proud,” Bernice says of seeing their Indigenous history celebrated through the wine.

“It hasn’t happened to me since probably my early high school days, but growing up there were people who would try to shame you for being First Nations. And having this, I feel like it just makes us stronger to share the stories.”

And the world is listening. Known for its expressive, boutique, small-batch, single-varietal wines, Indigenous World has won more than 100 awards since its inaugural releases, including Okanagan Winery of the Year at the New York International Wine Festival.

Knowing that alcohol has a fraught history among many First Nations communities, achieving an unimpeachable standard of excellence was a requirement for the Louies before beginning the venture. It’s a mandate

that head winemaker Jason Parkes has exceeded, thanks, in part, to his renown for sourcing the best grapes the area has to offer.

“We're not here just to be average, we want to excel,” says Robert. “It's having that connection to the land. The Okanagan Valley produces some of the finest wines the world has to offer.”

r e c o m m e n dAt i o n s From tHe wine sHop: “Our 2018 pinot Gris that has just come out is extremely spring-timey,” says indigenous World sales manager ryan Widdup. “it’s very tropical, with lots of guava, papaya, passionfruit, citrus and beautiful fresh, exotic fruit flavours. it’s very versatile and i think it’s going to be the best white that we produce this year.”

Indigenous World Winery | 2218 Horizon Dr., Kelowna | 250-769-2824 For more information, visit indigenousworldwinery.com

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Fighting Fire I T S E E M S w I L D F I R E S A R E T H E N E w N O R M A L I N w I N E C O U N T R y. w H AT A R E w E D O I N G A B O U T T H E M ?

istockphoto.com/Schleppitis photo

Joanne Sasvari

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ISSUE 03

“He called to say, ‘Now the fire

O

n October 8, 2017, Ray Signorello was at home in West Vancouver, brining the Thanksgiving turkey and waiting for his wife Tanya to come home from their winery on Napa Valley’s Silverado Trail.

Around 10 p.m. the phone rang. It was Tanya, telling him a fire was burning on the hill behind the winery. “I didn’t think this was such a big deal. We’ve had fires before,” Signorello recalls.

To be on the safe side, he called their winemaker, Pierre Birebent, and asked him to check things out. “He was like me. I could tell in his voice he thought it wasn’t a big deal,” he says. “He starts to drive down the valley and calls me and says ‘Ray, it’s a huge fire. I’m going to call my crew and go down to the winery and hose things down.’ ” Then, Signorello says, “He called to say, ‘Now the fire is at the corner of the building.’ And he called me 15 minutes later, crying, to say, ‘The winery is gone.’”

is at the corner of the building.’

And he called me 15 minutes later, crying, to say, ‘The winery is gone.’

The new normal The lingering pall of smoke. The anxious midnight tweets. The unearthly orange glow in the sky.

From Australia to Napa to the Okanagan Valley, wildfires have become as much a part of life in wine country as Riedel glassware and carefully curated cheese plates.

California, which from 2011 to 2017 suffered the worst drought in the state’s recorded history, has been particularly badly hit. Fires have destroyed tens of thousands of buildings, massive tracts of vegetation and dozens of human lives—85 people died last year in the Butte County Camp Fire alone. California’s wine industry now takes the threat so seriously that when Constellation Brands held its recent technical conference, fire-related issues were high on the agenda.

But B.C. hasn’t escaped unsinged. The Okanagan Valley has seen wildfires each of the last five years, and each year seems to be worse than the last.

In part it’s the weather, or perhaps the climate: B.C. and California alike have recently seen a pattern of rainy springs that prompt lush vegetation, followed by hot, stormy summers, with lightning that ignites all that nowdry spring growth and gusty winds to fan the flames to terrifying heights.

Flames continue to burn the morning after the fire at Signorello Estate in Napa. Photo courtesy of Signorello Estate

Th e f i r s t s pa r k The first—and still the worst—major fire in the Okanagan in recent memory was the 2003 firestorm that burned along the eastern ridge of the valley. At around 4 a.m. on August 16, lightning struck near Rattlesnake Island in Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park. Fuelled by relentless wind and the driest summer on record, the flames it sparked roared as far north as East Kelowna, forcing the evacuation of 27,000 residents, destroying 239 buildings and burning more than 64,000 acres of land. The cost of the blaze is estimated at $33.8 million.

Miraculously, no human lives were lost.

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“Once the fire started approaching and getting

within a few hundred metres, we started turning the system on. And it seemed to do the trick in not letting embers get a start on the perimeter.

A pall of smoke hangs over the Garnet Valley vineyard as the Okanagan Crush Pad team strategizes how to tackle the fire approaching their boundary in 2018. Photo courtesy of Okanagan Crush Pad

“These things go in cycles,” says Steve Lornie, the co-owner of Okanagan Crush Pad. “And the fact that housing and other developments are encroaching on Mother Nature, we’re getting closer to the danger zone.”

The planner Lornie has become something of an expert on dealing with wildfires. Years ago, he collaborated with local fire and forestry experts on a plan for his property, which included creating a vast, 200,000-gallon pond his team has

Th e v i n e s a r e f i n e While fires are a risk everywhere, there is one saving grace in wine country. “We need more vineyards because vineyards act as a natural firebreak,” says Gary Sitton, winemaker at Ravenswood Winery in Sonoma County. Irrigated soils, wide-open spaces, juicy fruit and green leaves all slow fire in its tracks.

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dubbed “Lake Lornie.” “It turns out, in 2018 it came in very handy,” he says.

In 2017, he watched the Finlay Creek fire approach his 312-acre Garnet Valley Ranch property near Summerland. “That was about five kilometres north of us. At night, you could see it glowing and we didn’t know if we were in the path or not,” he says. They weren’t, but he realized, “If it could happen there, it could happen here.”

That fall, he installed additional fire hydrants along the vineyard’s northeast borders.

A year later, a fire started up around Enneas Creek, and winds from the north quickly blew it into Garnet Valley. “Once the fire started approaching and getting within a few hundred metres, we started turning the system on.

And it seemed to do the trick in not letting embers get a start on the perimeter,” he says.

At the same time, helicopters scooped water from the pond to put out spot fires around the property. Then the wind reversed and the fire service created a back burn, which destroyed any fuel in the fire’s path. “That in the end is what stopped the fire in its track.”

His approach may not work for everyone. “Every property is different; every fire risk is different,” Lornie says.

But it’s a good place to start.

ISSUE 03

Be like Smokey As a certain bear would say, “Only you can prevent wildfires.” Here’s how.

Tak e c a r e Take care when discarding cigarettes or burning coals. Make sure fires are out before you leave a campsite. And have water or a fire extinguisher on hand in case a blaze gets out of control.

The impact Fire is expensive. Aside from the devastating risk to life, it destroys buildings and businesses that may have taken a lifetime to build. Tourism revenue takes a hit when frightened visitors stay away. And even if a vineyard is spared, the grapes can be damaged by smoke taint, whose bitter taste may show up years later in the bottle.

“The growers really need to understand this new threat,” says Melissa Stackhouse, winemaker for Sonoma’s Meiomi Wines, who experienced her first fire season in 2008, and one pretty much every year since. “In 2018, we had to reject a lot of fruit in the field because of smoke taint.”

Fighting fire is expensive, too.

After his winery was destroyed, Signorello flew down to Napa. “It was a lunar landscape kind of feeling,” he recalls.

Luckily, the vineyard and tank farm escaped the blaze. “We were fortunate that it was an early harvest so everything was intact. We didn’t have an interruption in product on the one side, but now we didn’t have a facility.”

He’s rebuilding the Signorello Estate winery, this time out of fire-resistant concrete, steel and glass, with exterior sprinklers and water cannons on the roof. The

Keep it clean Keep fuel sources, such as trees and shrubs, away from buildings. Clear pine needles and dead leaves from gutters and decks. Don’t stack firewood next to the house.

Build smart Consider fire-resistant materials such as concrete, steel and glass, rather than wood. Install sprinklers, inside and out. On bigger properties, install fire hydrants and, if possible, a pool or pond.

C o n s u lt t h e e x p e r t s Contact municipal fire departments and the provincial government for localized information. Visit firesmartcanada.ca for general tips, and redcross.ca for advice on what to do in a wildfire situation.

S tay i n t o u c h Report a wildfire by calling 1-800-663-5555 or texting *5555. Get up-to-date information by calling the fire information line at 1-888-3367378, or following @BCGovFireInfo on Twitter or BC Wildfire Service on Facebook.

27

“We were in the biggest fire in

B.C. history, and three months later, our winery burns down.

Below, the Signorello Estate winery on Napa Valley’s Silverado Trail before fire ripped through the property in 2017. Left, what remained afterward. Ray Signorello is now rebuilding, with fire protection firmly in mind.

Photos courtesy of Signorello Estate

Th e t r o u bl e w i t h s m o k e ta i n t Aside from all the other damage fire leaves in its path, wineries also have to deal with the threat of smoke taint, the unpalatable flavour that lingering smoke can add to wine.

property will feature two pools, which will hold 60,000 gallons of water, caves for storage and a new driveway.

“The new mandate says that two fire trucks have to be able to pass each other at 30 miles an hour,” he says. “All these things cost a fortune.”

The warning The funny thing, Signorello says, is that he’d been in New York on 9/11 and in San Francisco during the 1989 earthquake. In 2005, he lost two vintages when a storage facility was torched by an arsonist. And earlier in 2017, he and his family barely escaped a massive inferno that erupted around Williams Lake while they were on a camping trip.

He’d become, perhaps, a bit blasé about fire. But not anymore.

“We were in the biggest fire in B.C. history,” he says, shaking his head as he recalls telephone poles burning like matchsticks beside the highway, “and three months later, our winery burns down.”

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ISSUE 03

This is not the pleasant bacony note we love in some wines, especially Syrah, but a harsh, bitter character akin to licking a wet ashtray. It won’t make you sick, but it’s definitely not delicious.

Smoke taint isn’t just the result of residue clinging to the grapes. You can’t simply wash it off. Worse, it’s impossible to detect until it’s too late. That’s because burning wood releases aroma compounds called volatile phenols that permeate the grape skins, then bond with the sugars inside and form molecules called glycosides.

This process, called “glycosylation,” makes the phenols no longer volatile, so the smoke can’t be smelled or tasted. It’s only when the grapes are fermented—and sometimes long after the wine has been bottled—that the phenols are released and work their malignant magic.

For more information, check out the vast volume of work conducted by the Australian Wine Research Institute at awri.com.au.

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Crescent Hill’s deep roots E v er y sip is a taste of O k anagan histor y

Renate Suhr photos

S P O N S O RED

H

igh above Skaha Lake, on Penticton’s southern edge, Crescent Hill can rightly lay claim to being one of the Okanagan’s longest-planted vineyards.

It was in 1975 that owner Teresa Murray-Wiseman’s father, Glennallyn, purchased the five-acre property.

Glennallyn Murray (who had a background in wine production in Port Moody) decided the time was ripe to establish his own vineyard. In those early days it was Penticton’s first. And he planted what he loved, including Gewürztraminer (which he’d discovered in Germany) and Pearl of Csaba (with rootstock from a friend’s garden in Hungary). The original cuttings (including Chardonnay, Riesling and Muscat) all came to the Okanagan, as was the norm for the time, in his suitcase. The ever-inventive Glennallyn was also among the first to bring in his own machinery, flying in his own filters and press, part of a plan to eventually open a winery.

Over the years the vines flourished and Glennallyn supplied grapes to several neophyte vineyards as well as cuttings to several startup farm gate wineries. Teresa took over the vineyard after her father passed away in 1999.

In 2009, Teresa and her husband (and now trained winemaker) Russell Wiseman decided it was time to bring her father’s vision to fruition.

Glennallyn’s stamp remains very much in evidence at Crescent Hill, as much of his original equipment is still in use.

“We have a Belgian press, an Italian Pasquali tractor, and a slightly leaky 80-year old filter named Cristal, who now needs Depends!” says Teresa, adding, “We don’t take ourselves too seriously.”

Perseverance—and deep roots—have truly paid off, as the now long-established varieties consistently win medals in major competitions such as Los Angeles International Wine Awards, Wine Align National Wine Awards and Sip’s Best of the Northwest Wine Awards. The winery’s inaugural label, the fittingly named Glennallyn Private Reserve Gewürztraminer 2015, won Double Gold and Best White Wine at the 2017 All Canadian Wine Championships.

Crescent Hill’s distinctive labels (designed by Naramata artist Janis Blyth) convey Teresa’s lighthearted approach to wine, as in Consensual Chaos, an easy-drinking rosé. Teresa says the unlikely blend of Zweigelt and Gewürztraminer proves that opposites really do attract—as the label, featuring her good friend Jennifer and beloved Boston Terrier Rico, suggests.

“It’s just fun and summery—an easy quaffer, juicy and yummy, that you can drink chilled or not,” she says, but cautions: “Drink enough and, for sure, Consensual Chaos will ensue!”

Crescent Hill Winery | 205 Spruce Road, Penticton | 250-492-7842 For more information, visit crescenthillwinery.com

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ISSUE 03

Dockside Restaurant in the Granville Island Hotel offers a locally-driven, OceanWise certified menu and a B.C-focused wine list.

Come enjoy a superb glass of wine and panoramic False Creek views on our patio— voted Best Patio in Vancouver 9 years in a row!

Reservations at 604-685-7070 or www.docksidevancouver.com In the Granville Island Hotel, 1253 Johnston St, Granville Island 31

Castles and Riesling F ollo w the v intage w ine route through deliciousl y historic A lsace

Conseil Vins Alsace photo

wo r l d

win e

Daenna Van Mulligen

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“Pack away what you think you know about Riesling for the moment. Buckle up and prepare to be zapped.

R

emember the days when a vacation was all about sand and sunscreen, or putting another “wonders of the world” pin in your map?

That was before modern wine tourism, when it seemed only connoisseurs sought to indulge in the delights of fine cuisine and rare bottles.

We’ve come far in recent years, partly due to the accessibility of those liquid refreshments at home, and in our expanding thirst to imbibe them. Increasingly, wine regions understand how to best showcase their wares and invite us in.

There are few places more idyllic than Alsace, a region that has been embracing wine tourism longer than most: La Route des Vins d’Alsace was one of the first wine routes in France, established in 1953.

More than 100 magical villages and towns snuggle close to the Vosges Mountains, hugging the 170-kilometre-long narrow wine route that winds past verdant slopes and medieval structures. The German part of Alsace’s heritage is apparent everywhere, especially in the half-timbered wood-beam architecture that lines the cobblestone streets of its charming hamlets, window baskets brimming with boldly hued blossoms.

Yet there is so much more to Alsace than its fairytale-like villages and castles: Its food and wine lures rav-

enous devotees from around the globe. And with 2,500 kilometres of bike routes, you can indulge while burning off your excesses.

More than 90 per cent of Alsace’s wines are white (you’ll find top-notch Pinot Noirs here, too), which bodes well for the current global taste trend. And while the luscious Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminers and pretty Pinot Blancs are outrageously good, Riesling is the most noteworthy of Alsace’s noble wines.

Pack away what you think you know about Riesling for the moment. Buckle up and prepare to be zapped.

Electric, nervy and bony are three common descriptors for these dry, high-acid Rieslings. They have tension: Imagine strumming the taut string of a guitar, and the twang as it snaps back into place. Wine can feel that way, too. Precise and powerful, they also have notable minerality, which translates into savouriness, making them mouthwateringly perfect with food.

Granted, to outsiders, Alsatian wines can seem complicated, but try not to get caught up in the often-confusing rules governing winemaking in the region. Don’t fuss over stoic labels with tongue-twisting names of villages and vineyards, either—they have a mind-blowing 51 special vineyards, identified by quality and known as grand crus.

A w i n e - s oak e d h i s t o ry Viticulture in Alsace dates back to at least 58 BCE, by which time the Romans had invaded, fortified and planted vines in the fertile soil of what was then known as “Germania Superior.”

With the decline of the Roman Empire, the region became a Germanic territory; in the 5th century, it became a Frankish one; and from 962 to 1674, it was part of the Holy Roman Empire. Mostly, though, it has swung between German and French rule, a duality that has influenced every aspect of Alsatian culture.

It was divided into the départements of Haut and Bas-Rhin after the French Revolution of 1789 and it was here that the Marseillaise, the revolutionary marching song that became the national anthem, was composed a few years later.

After the Franco-Prussian war of 1870-’71, Alsace and neighbouring Lorraine were annexed by the German Empire.

Germany later ceded the region to France after the First World War under the terms of the 1919 Treaty of Versailles.

Germany occupied Alsace-Lorraine during the Second World War, and it became a hotbed of resistance, until it was returned to France in 1945.

Today, traces of Alsace’s volatile history can be discovered across the landscape, in its baroque castles, half-timbered houses, Gothic cathedrals, Roman fortifications, WWII-era blockhouses and, of course, the many vineyards as well as its vintage wine route.

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“Just crack open your bottle and enjoy; but don’t forget to grab your fork.

LEFT: Choucroute garnie is the classic Alsatian dish of pickled cabbage “garnished” with sausage and other cured meats.

Pair bubbly crémants with oysters. Crunchy Rieslings cut like a knife through fatty pork and creamy sauces, but their pristine character fancies white fish, too. Wild mushroom dishes, salmon, smoked cheeses and winter squash love Pinot Gris. Fleshier Gewürztraminers are made for unctuous pâtés, duck and exotically spiced dishes.

Now that you’re dreaming of Alsace, here are a few wines to seek out locally—in case you can’t get there fast enough.

ABOVE: Also popular is the savoury custard-filled tart known as quiche.

S i p s o f A l s ac e

wo r l d

win e

Conseil Vins Alsace photos

Just crack open your bottle and enjoy; but don’t forget to grab your fork.

Beyond the ubiquitous and traditional onion tart (almost always with bacon), choucroute (pickled cabbage), knack (sausage) and baeckeoffe (a hearty meat– based casserole topped with a golden crust), you’ll find elegantly composed salads, artfully plated spaetzle (egg dumplings), perfectly sauced freshwater fish and heavenly cheese carts. Remember, this is still France—and 26 Michelin-starred restaurants can be found in Alsace, too.

You cannot visit without sampling the pizza-like flammekueches (also known as tarte flambée) displayed in bakery windows, or the gingerbread at the themed workshop of Le Palais du Pain d’Épices in Gertwiller, or the massive soft pretzels, best enjoyed while strolling through Colmar.

Naturally these foods marry outlandishly well with Alsatian wines.

Here at home, the food pairings are also endless, especially with British Columbia’s plentiful seafood, sushi, Indian and Chinese cuisines.

Zind Humbrecht Heimbourg Pinot Gris ($73.99) A muscular white with the posture of a red wine. Expect notable earthiness and rich quince aromas. Its slick texture and impressive weight culminates in a bright and tangy finish.

Kuhlmann-Platz Gewürztraminer ($20) This potent and perfumed wine doles out rose oil, lychee and Asian spice aromas. It’s unctuous and spicy, with a fresh finish.

Trimbach Riesling ($32.99) Racy and mineral-laden with a nose of apricots, lemon drops and crunchy green apples. It is powerful with impressive weight and length.

Zinck Crémant d’Alsace ($30) This honest sparkling made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc expresses grilled lemon and yellow apple notes, with a balanced and creamy palate.

If yo u g o Both Air Canada and Air France offer direct flights from Vancouver to Paris; from there you can catch a connecting flight, take a train or drive a rental car to Strasbourg, the capital of Alsace. aircanada.com, airfrance.com For accommodation, dining and other travel information, visit tourisme-alsace.com.

Discover France’s oldest wine route at alsace-wine-route.com.

To learn more about Alsatian wines, go to winesofalsace.com.

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ocal, sustainable cuisine and beautiful views in a unique, lakeside setting.

Weekday Lunch 11:30am // Weekday Afternoon Menu 2:30pm Sunday Ă la Carte Brunch 11am // Dinner 5 pm // Closed Mondays 6664 Deer Lake Avenue, Burnaby

H A R T H O U S E R E S TA U R A N T. C O M

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What’s up with sub-apps?

Wine gro w ers go small in hopes of ma k ing it big Tim Pawsey

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hange in the wine industry rarely comes quickly. But that’s not the case in British Columbia, where the wine map is changing quicker than you can say “sub-app.”

It wasn’t that long ago when the industry was ruled by a handful of major players, who were quite happy, thank you, with labelling everything “Okanagan Valley” (or “Cellared in Canada,” for wines grown elsewhere but bottled here). After all, based on the KISS principle (keep it simple, stupid), what’s wrong with that? Do we really need to identify where grapes are grown? And does the consumer care anyway? Should we be always transparent?

The answer, of course is “Yes,” “Yes,” and “Yes!” And—breaking news—most wineries nowadays do care, very much.

The move to identify B.C. wine origins more specifically—and transparently—has been gathering steam for some years. It started with the larger wine regions, or Geographic Indications. Last year, the British Columbia Wine Authority added Thompson Valley, Shuswap, Lillooet and the Kootenays to the existing regions of Vancouver Island, Gulf Islands, Fraser Valley, Similkameen Valley, Okanagan Valley and the catch-all British Columbia. That’s in order to encompass recent new growing areas, once considered borderline for ripening. Or not previously considered at all.

Now the process involves delineating smaller growing areas or sub-appellations with unique growing conditions, known in B.C. as sub-Geographic Indications, within the larger, formally identified wine regions. The designation allows wineries to mention the sub-GI on the label, as long as the wine is made 100 per cent from grapes grown within that area.

The process of first identifying and then approving a sub-GI can be arduous and occasionally even controversial. In every instance, the initial impetus comes from growers and wineries within the proposed region as they

move to establish a firmer identity. Usually it’s driven by a better understanding of the true potential from their terroir, and also by a desire to protect it.

That was the motivation that kick-started the very first sub-GI, which was the Golden Mile Bench (on the west side of the Okanagan Valley, south of Oliver), approved in 2015. Next came Okanagan Falls in 2018. Most recently, a majority voted to approve sub-GI status for the Naramata Bench, which is now awaiting government sign-off.

Currently in the wings is Skaha Bluffs, a 365-hectare area south of Penticton, with only 75 hectares of vineyards.

The first and most critical step towards establishing a sub-GI is for the BCWA to clearly establish the proposed boundaries. That in itself can be a time-consuming and sometimes complicated process, as the application must be firmly grounded on distinctive soil types and other factors. This task, in every case to date, has been ably undertaken by consultant and soil specialist Scott Smith. It’s his report that provides the foundation for the proposal on which the stakeholders vote. A two-thirds majority is required to move the process forward for the Ministry of Agriculture’s approval.

LEFT: The Naramata Bench, north of Penticton, is likely to become BC’s next sub-GI. istockphoto.com/ laughingmango photo RIGHT: The rocky hills, warm days and cool nights make the Okanagan Falls sub-GI distinctive from the surrounding areas. Wines of British Columbia photo

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“Mother Nature has already given us terroir and

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it is us humans that need GIs to show the rest of us where they are.

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The Similkameen Valley has unique pockets that show great potential for sub-GI status, such as the Cawston area where Vanessa Vineyard is located.

Similkameen Independent Winegrowers Association photo

Smith (who these days is digging more soil pits than ever), has been analysing soils across B.C. wine regions for several years. He’s an expert on what he refers to as the Okanagan’s “glacial landscape,” those transported sediments that form the alluvial fans where much of the region’s better plantings grow. Not only are the soil and rock types important, he suggests, but also the air movement the fans produce. These and other considerations, such as variation by elevation (as in the case of Golden Mile Bench), climate and more all go into the sub-GI proposal.

In the heart of Naramata Bench, Howling Bluff Estate Winery owner Luke Smith is more than familiar with those unique soils, which his vineyards straddle. Over the last 12 years his wines have picked up four Lieutenant Governor Awards of Excellence, among several others of note. For him, Naramata’s move to formal sub-GI status comes not a moment too soon.

"Wine is from somewhere more than it is from ‘someone,’” he says, adding, “Our customers deserve to know that Naramata Bench now means the grapes are from somewhere special.”

Another region ripe for sub-GI designations is the Similkameen Valley.

“For sure there are several areas that lend themselves to sub-GI designation,” says Howard Soon, winemaker at Vanessa Vineyard and one of B.C.’s earliest proponents

of terroir-driven wines. “The Vanessa Vineyard and how it was born is certainly a different area and terroir than other B.C. areas I have worked in. One of my self-projects would be to understand and define this beautiful area.”

He adds: “GIs and sub-GIs are mostly a good thing.

They define what a wine region is all about. Mother Nature has already given us terroir and it is us humans that need GIs to show the rest of us where they are. The difficult thing for the wine consumer is, if there are too many sub-GIs, the mind boggles.”

On Vancouver Island, the Cowichan Valley is also working its way through the system. That initiative is being led by Blue Grouse winemaker Bailey Williamson, who feels there are plenty of upsides to establishing a Cowichan sub-GI. Identifying the better parcels, he suggests, will encourage more people to grow grapes—and to grow the right grapes, such as Pinot Noir, which is fast becoming a Cowichan calling card.

The consensus, especially among wineries involved in the export market, is that sub-GIs can’t come soon enough. For many it’s yet one more necessary step in spreading the word internationally that B.C. is indeed a credible player, with an appellation system to which others in the world can easily relate.

As Soon says, “I don’t know why we haven’t got more done already. Within the Okanagan Valley there are a ton of different terroirs that could be defined.”

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Cheese, please B . C . cheese and w ine are a match made in palate - pleasing hea v en Jennifer Gauthier

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Cinda Chavich

Salt Spring Island Cheese Juliette is soft, creamy and nutty, like a goat camembert. Pair it with crisp white wines.

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t The Farmer’s Daughter in Sidney, sommelier Tom Dai spends his days looking for the perfect wine to match the cheeses sold in the dual-purpose shop.

Dai’s domain is the wine bar, which stretches behind partner Jessica Sommer’s well-stocked cheese case in the bright, contemporary space. With several artisan cheeseand-wine flights to try, it’s the perfect place to settle in to explore this delicious symbiosis.

“If a wine has smoky notes, we look for a cheese that has smoky flavours. For a cheese with a mushroomy rind, we look for a wine that has earthy notes,” Dai says as he delivers a regional pairing, complete with detailed tasting notes for both cheese and wine.

The world of cheese is vast, but there are many new opportunities to learn more about the affinity between these age-old products of fermentation. From the curated cheese board at your local wine bar to a technical

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tasting with a cheese expert, or a cheese club that brings rare local cheeses directly to your door, artisan cheese is gaining new cachet.

At Upper Bench Winery and Creamery near Penticton, Shana Miller makes cheeses that complement her husband Gavin Miller’s big Bordeaux-style wines. It’s the only winery in the country where both wine and cheese are produced on site, with a tasting bar where you can sample both, and a pizza oven on the patio for authentic Neapolitan pizzas topped (naturally) with their own cheese. They also have a Curds & Corks Club, conveniently delivering their perfectly paired wines and cheeses to your door.

Visitors to the winery and club members alike eat up Miller’s big, Stilton-style King Cole blue, buttery U&Brie and lovely Upper Bench Gold cheeses.

“We’re in a state of growth now because we can’t keep

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“When Gavin’s bottling rosé, I’m definitely making Brie.

up,” says the cheesemaker, who times her cheeses to the latest wine releases. “Our club members get six bottles of wine and three cheeses every three months. When Gavin’s bottling rosé, I’m definitely making Brie.”

At the nearby Lock & Worth winery, Poplar Grove cheeses are on the tasting room menu. Studies show cheese improves the experience of tasting wine, says cheesemaker Gitta Pedersen.

“When they taste the cheese along with the

B.C. is becoming a great destination for cheese lovers. Just a few to try include, clockwise from top left: tangy Poplar Grove Tiger Blue; semi-soft Farm House Alpine Gold; creamy Salt Spring Island Juliette; wine-soaked Little Qualicum Cheeseworks Tipsy Jill; nutty Kootenay Alpine Cheese Co. Alpindon; and the pungent, beer-washed Haltwhistle PennyMede.

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along with the wine, people come away with a whole new sensation, understanding how both are enhanced.

Rich, tangy, slightly salty: The powerhouse Poplar Grove Tiger Blue can stand up to a bold red wine like Cabernet Franc.

wine, people come away with a whole new sensation, understanding how both are enhanced,” says Pedersen, whose four cheeses, including the washed-rind Harvest Moon and richly veined Tiger Blue, are offered with four Lock & Worth wines.

You’ll find cheese boards—and wine-and-cheese pairings—at many restaurants, too. Forage in Vancouver will pair a flight of B.C. wines with local cheeses to start your meal. An assiette de fromage starts the meal at Au Comptoir, while a selection of cheeses is offered, in French style, with the desserts at Hawksworth and Le Crocodile.

And if you want to get really serious about cheese, there’s the new L’Apéro Cheese Tasting Experience in Victoria, with cheese tasting workshops, and wine and cheese tasting parties, scheduled throughout the year (aperocheeseexperience.com).

So whether it’s the creamy Ruckles goat cheese from Salt Spring Island, the mozzarella di bufala made from water buffalo milk at Natural Pastures, or the beautiful Brie from Golden Ears Cheesecrafters, B.C. artisan makers are busy.

The French monk and writer François Rabelais called cheese, wine and bread the “Holy Trinity of the table”— and it’s still the easiest way to entertain.

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join the club If you’d rather taste your cheese at home, why not join a cheese club operated by your favourite producer or retailer?

Here are just a few available in B.C. The Farmer’s Daughter Cheese of the Month Club will deliver three cheeses to your door, 12 times a year. $65 a month, thefarmersdaughter.com The Haltwhistle Cheese Company club offers a unique, 400- to 500-gram cheese delivered every month between April and September. $199, haltwhistlecheese.com Golden Ears Cheesecrafters’ cheese club offers either a single box of cheese or a yearly membership of four seasonal deliveries, each comprising three to five unique cheeses, plus condiments or accessories. $82 for a single box, $317 for an annual subscription, cheesecrafters.ca Upper Bench Winery Curds & Corks Club delivers six bottles of wine and three pieces of perfectly paired Poplar Grove artisan cheese every three months, along with cheese recipes and tasting notes. $760 a year, upperbench.ca

perfect pairings si x b . c . cheeses and their w ine matches

Upper Bench Okanagan Sun with Upper Bench Estate Pinot Noir

Upper Bench WInery photo

While cheesemaker Shana Miller says this buttery little washed rind wheel “goes with everything,” as it matures and becomes stronger in both taste and aroma, she reaches for their estate-grown Pinot Noir, with its cherry, raspberry and cedar notes.

Haltwhistle Swansea with Unsworth Allegro The cheesemakers at Haltwhistle (formerly Happy Goat Cheese Co.) on Vancouver Island make this Gouda-style cheese with milk from their own goats. The slightly tart but earthy cheese pairs perfectly with the honey, apple and citrus notes of Unsworth Allegro, a dry, lively blend of two Blattner varieties planted on the property—Sauvignette and Petit Milo.

Poplar Grove Tiger Blue with Lock & Worth Cabernet Franc Tiger Blue is a firm cheese made with cow’s milk from Dutchman Dairy in Sicamous. Its intense flavour from the blue veining running throughout the cheese pairs well with the dark plum and peppercorn notes in the Square One Cabernet Franc—or a sweet after-dinner port.

Golden Ears Cheescrafters Brie with La Stella La Stellina Rosato A soft, bloomy buttery Brie from the Fraser Valley, this artisan cheese pairs well with white Port or rosé, like the intense Mer-

lot-based rosato from La Stella in Osoyoos, which would be beautiful with any cheese.

The Farm House Heidi with Sunrock Illumina This firm, golden, washed-rind cheese is made with the finest summer milk from the herd of Guernsey and Brown Swiss cows at this Agassiz farmhouse dairy. Pair Heidi with red wine—the velvety blend of Syrah and Zinfandel from Sunrock Vineyards is loaded with juicy dark fruit flavours, making it perfect with cheese and charcuterie.

Thombury with Blue Grouse Amphora Collection Ortega Thombury is an aged cheese, similar to a French tomme, from Haltwhistle Cheese Co. on Vancouver Island, that’s made with cow’s milk from a neighbour’s herd. Match it with the latest Blue Grouse innovation— whole-cluster Ortega, naturally fermented in amphorae, for an intense, golden, nutty white wine, reminiscent of sherry and apple pie.

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Vancouver Island From the Saanich Peninsula to Comox, the Island has several pockets of microclimates that are ideal for growing grapes, especially cooler climate varieties such as Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The wineries are mostly smaller, family-owned properties located in seductively beautiful landscapes and surrounded by lush farms. The Island also boasts a number of food festivals, which pair especially well with the local vintages.

Church and State Wines. Photo courtesy of Wines of British Columbia, WineBC.com

Alberni Valley Emerald Coast Vineyards

Blue Grouse Estate Winery

Emandare Vineyard and Winery

Riesling, Syrah bluemoonwinery.ca

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Gamay Noir bluegrouse.ca

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe emandarevineyard.com

Coastal Black Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Madeline Angevine, Marechal Foch emeraldcoastvineyards.ca

Fruit wines, honey wines coastalblack.ca

Cherry Point Estate Wines

Courtenay/ Comox

Stones Throw Vineyard and Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Siegerrebe stonesthrowwinery.ca

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Pinot Blanc, Agria, Zweigelt cherrypointestatewines.com

40 Knots Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Siegerrebe, Gamay, Zweigelt, Schonburger, Auxerrois 40knotswinery.com

Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Schonburger, Leon Millot beaufortwines.ca

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Blue Moon Estate Winery

Damali Lavender Winery and B&B

cowichan valley

Riesling, Merlot, Dolce Mora damali.ca

Alderlea Vineyards

Deol Estate Winery

Bacchus, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot alderlea.com

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch deolestatewinery.com

Averill Creek Vineyard

Divino Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Marechal Foch averillcreek.ca

Chardonnay, Trebbiano, Castel, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio divinowine.ca

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Enrico Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Chardonnay, Petit Milo, Cabernet Libre enricowinery.com

Glenterra Vineyards Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Bacchus, Siegerrebe, Muscat, Pinot Noir, Cabernet France, Pinot Meunier, Dornfelder, Lemberger glenterravineyards.com

Rocky Creek Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Viognier, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Tempranillo rockycreekwinery.ca

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Unsworth Vineyards

Nanaimo

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignette, Riesling, Merlot, Petit Milo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, sparkling wine unsworthvineyards.com

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier, Siegerrebe, Bacchus chateauwolff.com

Venturi-Schulze Vineyards

Millstone Estate Winery

Chateau Wolff Estates

Church & State Wines (Victoria)

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine venturischulze.com

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe millstonewinery.ca

Zanatta Winery

Parksville

Pinot Noir, Ortega, Pinot Grigio, sparkling wine zanatta.ca

Saanich Peninsula Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec churchandstatewines.com

De Vine Vineyards & Spirits Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Pinot Blanc, Marechal Foch devinevineyards.ca

Mooberry Winery & Little Qualicum Cheeseworks

Deep Cove Winery Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Schonburger, rosé, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir deepcovewinery.ca

Fruit wines mooberrywinery.com

Domaine Rochette Winery Pinot Noir, Ortega, rosé, Marechal Foch, Schonburger domainerochette.com

Rathjen Cellars Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Gamay, rosé rathjencellars.com

Symphony Vineyard Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Marechal Foch symphonyvineyard.com

The Roost Farm Centre & Highland House Farm Winery Siegerrebe, fruit wines roostfarmcentre.com

Gulf Islands The Gulf Islands dot the Strait of Georgia that separates Vancouver Island from the Mainland. Salt Spring, Pender, Saturna, Quadra, Hornby, Denman and Thetis islands boast a laidback lifestyle and an oceanic climate ideal for the increasing number of wineries producing cool-climate wines.

Isla De Lerena Vineyard Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir lerenavineyards.com

Pender Island Sea Star Estate Farm and Vineyards Pinot Noir, Ortega, Sigerrebe, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch seastarvineyards.ca

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Picnic area at Salt Spring Vineyards. Photo courtesy of Wines of British Columbia, WineBC.com

Quadra Island

Denman Island

Hornby Island

SouthEnd Farm Winery

Corlan Vineyard & Farm

Hornby Island Estate Winery

Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch corlanvineyard.wordpress. com

Fruit wines hornbywine.com

Siegerrebe, Petit Milo, Cabernet France, Marechal Foch, Leon Millot, sparkling wine southend.ca

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Salt Spring Island Garry Oaks Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, rosé, Zweigelt garryoakswinery.com

Salt Spring Vineyards & Winery Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, fruit wines saltspringvineyards.com

Fraser Valley It comes as something of a surprise to many people to learn that there are 40 wineries right on the doorstep of B.C.’s biggest city—including a handful right in Vancouver itself. Wineries in Surrey, Richmond, New Westminster, Delta, Langley, Aldergrove and Abbotsford produce wine from everything from rice to berries to vitis vinifera. Most are small, family-owned properties and several offer additional attractions such as farm tours or bistros.

Chaberton Estate Winery Ortega, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Madeline Angevine , Gamay Noir, Reichensteiner, Zweigelt, Madeleine Sylvaner, Schonburger chabertonwinery.com

Glass House Estate Winery

Backyard Vineyards. Photo courtesy of Tourism Langley

Abbotsford

St. Urban Winery

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, icewine glasshouseestatewinery.com/

Krause Berry Farms & Estate Winery

Blackwood Lane Vineyards & Winery

Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay sturbanwinery.com

Fruit wines, sparkling wine, dessert wines krauseberryfarms.com

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Siegerrebe blackwoodlanewinery.com

Chilliwack

The Fort Langley Wine Co.

Maan Farms Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, fruit wines maanfarms.com

Mt. Lehman Winery Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc mtlehmanwinery.ca

Whispering Horse Winery

Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, rosé countryfarms.ca/countryvines-winery

Surrey 1st R.O.W. Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay 1row.ca

Delta

Vista D’oro Farms & Winery Pinot Gris, Syrah, fortified walnut wine vistadoro.com

Vancouver

New Westminster

Merlot, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier citysidewinery.com/

Pacific Breeze Winery

Vancouver Urban Winery

Angel Estate Winery Fruit wines angelestatewinery.com

Fruit wines rippleswinery.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe singletreewinery.com

Richmond Country Farms & Vines

Ehrenfelser. Kerner, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah vinoscentivineyards.ca

Fruit wines wellbrookwinery.com

Singletree Winery

Lulu Island Winery Pinot Gris, Merlot, fruit wines, icewine luluislandwinery.com

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Langley)

Wellbrook Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Grigio, sparkling wine seasidepearlwinery.ca

Fruit wines canadablueberries.com

L’Acadie Blanc, Epicure, Seyval Blanc, Pinot Gris, La Crescent, Dornfelder whisperinghorsewinery.com

Ripples Winery

Seaside Pearl Farmgate Winery

Fruit wines thefortwineco.com

Richmond Canada Berries

Langley/ Aldergrove Backyard Vineyards Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Grigio backyardvineyards.ca

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay township7.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc pacificbreezewinery.com

Vinoscenti Vineyards

City Side Winery

Pinot Gris, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc vancouverurbanwinery.com

Pitt Meadows Blue Heron Fruit Winery Fruit wines, dessert wines blueheronwinery.ca

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Okanagan When most people think B.C. wine, they think of the Okanagan Valley, which produces 84 per cent of the province’s wine. This is one of the most varied wine regions in the world, stretching from cool-climate Lake Country in the north to the blistering-hot desert around Osoyoos in the south. Everything from ice wine to big, tannic, fruit-driven reds is produced at wineries that range from small family-run boutique vineyards to big global players, many of them featuring fine restaurants, guesthouses and cultural events.

Golden Mile Bench C.C. Jentsch Cellars Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Petit Verdot ccjentschcellars.com

Checkmate Artisanal Winery

Road 13 Vineyards Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Malbec, Roussanne, Mourvedre, Marsanne, Chenin Blanc, Petit Verdot road13vineyards.com

Rust Wine Co. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, rosé, Pinot Grigio rustwine.com

Merlot, Chardonnay checkmatewinery.com

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards

Culmina Family Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay tinhorn.com

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner culmina.ca

Fairview Cellars Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc fairviewcellars.ca

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Schonburger, Auxerrois gehringerwines.ca

Hester Creek Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc hestercreek.com

Culmina Family Estate Winery—Margaret’s Bench vineyard. Tim Pawsey photo

Kaleden Kraze Legz Vineyard & Winery Merlot, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc krazelegz.com

Camelot Vineyards

Martin's Lane Winery

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio camelotvineyards.ca

Pinot Noir, Riesling martinlanewinery.com/

CedarCreek Estate Winery

Kelowna Ancient Hill Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, rosé, Baco Noir ancienthillwinery.com

Calona Vineyards (Wayne Gretzky Okanagan, Conviction, Peller) Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay calonavineyards.ca

Fruit wines, honey wines meadowvista.ca

Nagging Doubt Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay, icewine cedarcreek.bc.ca

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay naggingdoubt.com

Frequency Wine & Sound

Okanagan Villa Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Zweigelt frequencywinery.ca

House Of Rose Winery Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay houseofrose.ca

Kitsch Wines Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay kitschwines.ca

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Meadow Vista Honey Wines

ISSUE 03

Sparkling wine okanaganvilla.com

Ricco Bambino Urban Winery Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Viognier, Riesling, sparkling wine, rosé riccobambino.com

Our sustainably-built winery, organic vineyards, and vegan wines await your visit.

New Releases Available Now

2182 Lakeside Road, Duncan, BC | bluegrouse.ca | @bluegrousewines

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Sandhill Wines

Arrowleaf Cellars

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Viognier, Malbec, Pinot Blanc, Barbera sandhillwines.ca

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, rosé arrowleafcellars.com

Scorched Earth Winery Pinot Noir, Merlot, rosé scorchedearthwinery.ca

SpearHead Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay spearheadwinery.com

Sperling Vineyards Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Bacchus, icewine sperlingvineyards.com

St. Hubertus & Oak Bay Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gamay Noir, icewine st-hubertus.bc.ca

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, icewine, sparkling wine summerhill.bc.ca

Tantalus Vineyards Pinot Noir, Riesling, rosé, Chardonnay, icewine tantalus.ca

The Vibrant Vine Gewürztraminer, rosé, Pinot Grigio, icewine, Muscat thevibrantvine.com

The View Winery Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, rosé, Ehrenfelser, Pinotage theviewwinery.com

Lake Country 50th Parallel Estate Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay 50thparallel.com

50

Blind Tiger Vineyards

Forgotten Hill Wine Co. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, rosé forgottenhillwineco.com

Foxtrot Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah blindtigervineyards.ca

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier foxtrotwine.com

Ex Nihilo Vineyards Okanagan Valley

JoieFarm Pinot Noir, Riesling, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Blanc, Gamay joiefarm.com

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay exnihilovineyards.com

Gray Monk Estate Winery

Kettle Valley Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay graymonk.com

Intrigue Wines Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay intriguewines.ca

The Chase Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Noir, rosé thechasewines.com

Naramata Bella Wines

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Viognier, Zinfandel kettlevalleywinery.com

Lake Breeze Vineyards Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Blanc, Sémillon lakebreeze.ca

Lang Vineyards Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Marechal Foch langvineyards.ca

sparkling wine bellawines.ca

Marichel Vineyard & Winery

Daydreamer Wines

Pinot Noir, Syrah marichel.ca

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, rosé, Chardonnay, Shiraz daydreamerwines.ca

Deep Roots Winery

Mocojo Wines Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Viognier, Malbec mocojowines.com

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Gamay, Muscat deeprootswinery.com

Nichol Vineyard

Elephant Island Winery

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc originwines.ca

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, St. Laurent nicholvineyard.com

Origin Wines

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, fruit wines elephantislandwine.com

ISSUE 03

Serendipity Winery Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio serendipitywinery.com

Therapy Vineyards & Guest House Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc therapyvineyards.com

Van Westen Vineyards Pinot Gris, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, icewine vanwestenvineyards.com

Okanagan Falls BC Wine Studio Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Grüner Veltliner, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec bcwinestudio.ca

Black Dog Cellars Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay blackdogcellars.ca

Blasted Church Vineyards Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Blanc, Lemberger blastedchurch.com

Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Gamay Noir, sparkling wine bluemountainwinery.com

Bonamici Cellars Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah bonamicicellars.com

Liquidity Wines Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Chardonnay, Viognier liquiditywines.com

Meyer Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, Chardonnay mfvwines.com

Nighthawk Vineyards Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay nighthawkvineyards.com

Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio nobleridge.com

See Ya Later Ranch Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay sylranch.com

Stag's Hollow Winery & Vineyard Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache, Muscat, Tempranillo, Vidal stagshollowwinery.com

Synchromesh Wines Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Franc synchromeshwines.ca

Wild Goose Vineyards & Winery Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Petit Verdot wildgoosewinery.com

Oliver Bartier Bros. Winery Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sémillon bartierbros.com

Black Hills Estate Winery Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Roussanne blackhillswinery.com

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec burrowingowlwine.ca

Cassini Cellars Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay cassini.ca

Castoro de Oro Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Vidal, Siegfried castorodeoro.com

Church & State Wines (Okanagan) Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec churchandstatewines.com

Covert Farms Family Estate Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Roussanne, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot covertfarms.ca

Desert Hills Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Gamay deserthills.ca

Gold Hill Winery

Maverick Vineyards

Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec goldhillwinery.com

Pinot Noir, Syrah maverickwine.ca

Here’s the Thing Vineyards Viognier, Roussane, Gamay Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, rosé heresthethingvineyards.com

Hidden Chapel Winery Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec hiddenchapelwinery.com

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Malbec, Pinot Blanc, Tempranillo inniskillin.com

Intersection Estate Winery Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Marsanne xwine.ca

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz jacksontriggswinery.com

Kismet Estate Winery Riesling, Syrah, rosé, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Bordeaux blends kismetestatewinery.com

La Casa Bianca Winery Riesling, Cabernet Franc lacasabianca.ca

Le Vieux Pin Winery Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, rosé levieuxpin.ca

Montakarn Estate Winery Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec montakarn.ca

Okanagan Hills Estate Winery Pinot Gris ohwinery.com

Oliver Twist Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Kerner, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Shiraz olivertwistwinery.com

Pipe'Dreams Vineyard And Estate Winery Merlot, Kerner, Gamay, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner pipedreamswinery.com

Phantom Creek Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Gris phantomcreekestates.com

Platinum Bench Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Gamay Noir platinumbench.com

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec quintaferreira.com

River Stone Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Petit Verdot riverstoneestatewinery.ca

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Silver Sage Winery Pinot Noir, Merlot, Pinot Blanc silversagewinery.com

Squeezed Wines Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc squeezedwines.ca

Stoneboat Vineyards Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinotage stoneboatvineyards.com

vinAmite Cellars Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gamay vinamitecellars.com

Winemaker’s CUT Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltiner, Syrah, Pinot Noir, rosé winemakerscut.ca

osoyoos Adega On 45th Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec adegaon45.com

Blue Sky Estate Winery Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Shiraz blueskywinery.ca

Bordertown Vineyards Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grüner Veltliner bordertownwinery.com

Lariana Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Carménère larianacellars.com

LaStella Winery Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio lastella.ca

Moon Curser Vineyards Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Tempranillo, Tannat, Bordeaux blend mooncurser.com

Nk'Mip Cellars Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc nkmipcellars.com

Osoyoos Larose Estate Winery Bordeaux blend osoyooslarose.com

Young & Wyse Collection

TIME Winery. Photo courtesy of TIME Winery

Pinot Noir, Syrah youngandwysewine.com

PeAChlAnd Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, Merlot, rosé, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, sparkling wine fitzwine.com

Laughing Stock Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Viognier dangelowinery.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier laughingstock.ca

Da Silva Vineyard & Winery

Little Engine Wines

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Fumé Blanc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Muscat dasilvavineyards.com

Hainle Vineyards Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Zweigelt hainle.com

Hillside Winery & Bistro Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Muscat Ottonel hillsidewinery.ca

PentiCton Bench 1775 Winery Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon bench1775.com

Black Widow Winery Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Muscat, Schonburge blackwidowwinery.com

Crescent Hill Winery Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Muscat crescenthillwinery.com

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D’Angelo Estate Winery

Howling Bluff Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc howlingbluff.ca

Kanazawa Wines Pinot Noir, Merlot, Pinot Blanc kanazawawines.com

La Frenz Winery Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc lafrenzwinery.com

ISSUE 03

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc littleenginewines.com

Lock & Worth Winery Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon lockandworth.com

Misconduct Wine Co. Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Malbec, Muscat misconductwineco.com

Monster Vineyards Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay, Shiraz monstervineyards.ca

Moraine Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon morainewinery.com

Painted Rock Estate Winery Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay paintedrock.ca

Cool climate wines, expertly crafted.

Tasting Room open Friday to Sunday, noon until 5pm, from May through September.

5854 Pickering Road, Courtenay, BC @beaufortwines •

@beaufortwinery • beaufortwines.ca

OUR FOCUS IS LOCAL. Come visit us and shop our extensive selection of B.C. wine.

open daily 10am-11pm • delivery available 1218 west pender, vancouver • 604.685.1212 coalharbourliquorstore.com

visit our newly renovated restaurant featuring an expanded patio and an outdoor pizza oven.

Open house May 26 Stop by an . d taste our n ew releases!

Open Year Round • Tasting Room Daily • Restaurant Wed.-Sun. 2915 Cameron Taggart Rd., Mill Bay • 250-929-2292 • unsworthvineyards.com

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Pentâge Winery Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Gamay, Sémillon, Tempranillo, Roussanne pentage.com

Perseus Winery Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc perseuswinery.com

Play Estate Winery Syrah, Viognier playwinery.com

Poplar Grove Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc township7.com

Upper Bench Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier rubyblueswinery.ca

Terravista Vineyards Syrah, Viognier, Roussanne terravistavineyards.com

Three Sisters Winery Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay 3sisterswinery.com

Tightrope Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier tightropewinery.ca

TIME Winery Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc timewinery.com

Summerland Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Merlot summerlandestatewinery.com

T.H. Wines

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, dessert wines lunessencewinery.com

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Viognier thwines.com

Okanagan Crush Pad Winery

The Back Door Winery

Summerland

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot sagehillswine.com

8th Generation Vineyard

Dirty Laundry Vineyard

Ruby Blues Winery

Lunessence Winery & Vineyard

Sage Hills Organic Vineyard & Winery

Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon redroosterwinery.com

Schonberger, Zweigelt, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Gewürztraminer rterroir.ca

Pinot Noir, Viognier, rosé lightningrockwinery.ca

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, sparkling wine okanagancrushpad.com

Red Rooster Winery

Roche Wines

Lightning Rock Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Zweigelt upperbench.ca

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Chardonnay, frizzante 8thgeneration.com

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc poplargrove.ca

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Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Naramata)

Savard Vines

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec backdoorwinery.com

Thornhaven Estates Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Orange Muscat, Pinot Meunier thornhaven.com

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Grigio savardvines.ca

West Kelowna

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, rosé dirtylaundry.ca

Saxon Estate Winery

Beaumont Family Estate Organic Winery

Estate Thurn Winery, Craft Distillery & Vinegar Brewery

Silkscarf Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot saxonwinery.com

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc bodega1117.com

Evolve Cellars Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, sparkling wine evolvecellars.com

Giant Head Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Riesling, Merlot giantheadwinery.com

Heaven's Gate Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Gamay Noir, Sémillon heavensgatewinery.ca

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Riesling-Muscat, ShirazViognier silkw.net

Sleeping Giant Fruit Winery Fruit wines, dessert wines sleepinggiantfruitwinery.com

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz sumacridge.com

SummerGate Winery Riesling, Kerner, Muscat Ottonel summergate.ca

ISSUE 03

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, rosé, Gamay Noir, icewine beaumontwinery.com

Ciao Bella Estate Winery Cabernet Franc, Pinot Grigio ciaobellawinery.com

Grizzli Winery Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat grizzliwinery.com

Indigenous World Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Ehrenfelser, Muscat indigenousworldwinery.com

Kalala Organic Estate Winery

Mission Hill Family Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zweigelt, Vidal, Auxerrois kalalawines.ca

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, icewine missionhillwinery.com

Little Straw Vineyards Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe, Chenin Blanc littlestraw.bc.ca

Mt. Boucherie Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay Noir, Zweigelt, icewine, Zinfandel mtboucheriewinery.com

Niche Wine Company

Rollingdale Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc nichewinecompany.com

Pinot Gris, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc rollingdale.ca

Off The Grid Organic Winery

The Hatch

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Zweigelt offthegridorganicwinery.com

Quails' Gate Winery Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Grigio, icewine, Chenin Blanc quailsgate.com

Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Gamay thehatchwines.com

Volcanic Hills Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Zweigelt volcanichillswinery.com

Similkameen Known both as Canada’s organic capital and its best-kept-secret wine country, the sun-soaked Similkameen produces everything from boldly tannic reds to bright, flinty whites. Surrounded by rugged mountains that trap the heat and funnel mildew-banishing winds through the vineyards, the valley features a variety of soils including stone, gravel and silty loam from glacial rock formations. Although there are relatively few wineries here, there are many vineyards that sell grapes to wineries in other regions.

Liber Farm & Winery Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Chardonnay liberfarm.com

Little Farm Winery Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay littlefarmwinery.ca

Orofino Vineyards Clos du Soleil. Photo courtesy of Similkameen Independent Wineries Association

Cawston Crowsnest Vineyards

Forbidden Fruit Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay crowsnestvineyards.com

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Vidal, Tannat forbiddenfruitwine.com

Eau Vivre Winery & Vineyards

Hugging Tree Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Cabernet Franc eauvivrewinery.ca

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Malbec, Petit Verdot huggingtreewinery.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Gamay Noir, Shiraz, sparkling wine, Muscat orofinovineyards.com

Rustic Roots Winery Fruit wines, dessert wines rusticrootswinery.com

Seven Stones Winery Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay sevenstones.ca

Vanessa Vineyard Estate Winery Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc vanessavineyard.com

Keremeos Clos Du Soleil Winery Cabernet Franc, rosé, Pinot Blanc, Shiraz closdusoleil.ca

Corcelettes Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, rosé corceletteswine.ca

Robin Ridge Winery Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Gamay robinridgewinery.com

St. Laszlo Vineyards Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Merlot stlaszlo.com

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Other regions

Some of B.C.’s most exciting wines are being produced in regions that are so new, few people have heard of them.

But given the awards they’re pulling in, these wineries will become well-known soon enough. And who knows where vintners will be planting grapes next?

Waterside Vineyard & Winery Siegerrebe. Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Viognier.

Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, rosé watersidewinery.com

KOOTENAYS Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay bailliegrohman.com

Columbia Gardens Vineyard & Winery

Harper’s Trail Estate Winery. Photo courtesy of Wines of British Columbia, WineBC.com

Thompson Valley Harper's Trail Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, rosé, sparkling wine harperstrail.com

Monte Creek Ranch Winery Chardonnay, Marechal Foch, Frontenac Blanc, Frontenac Gris, La Crescent, Marquette, Pinot Noir, Riesling montecreekranch.com

Privato Vineyard & Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, rosé, Chardonnay privato.ca

Sagewood Winery Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc sagewoodwinery.ca

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LilLooet

Marionette Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Zweigelt marionettewinery.com

Fort Berens Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay fortberens.ca

Shuswap Baccata Ridge Winery

Ovino Winery Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc ovinowinery.com

Recline Ridge Vineyards & Winery

Celista Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Ortega, Kerner, rosé, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Madeline Angevine , Marechal Foch, Zweigelt, Madeleine Sylvaner reclineridgewinery.com

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Ortega, rosé, Marechal Foch celistawine.com

Sunnybrae Vineyards & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Gamay Noir, Zweigelt baccataridgewinery.ca

Edge Of The Earth Vineyards Ortega, Marechal Foch edgeearth.ca

Pinot Noir, Ortega, Kerner, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Schonburger sunnybraewinery.com

Larch Hills Winery Ortega, Madeline Angevine, Agria larchhillswinery.com

ISSUE 03

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon cgwinery.com

Heron Ridge Estates Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, fruit wines facebook.com/ HeronRidgeEstatesWinery

Skimmerhorn Winery & Vineyard Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Marechal Foch skimmerhorn.ca

Wynnwood Cellars Pinot Noir, Syrah wynnwoodcellars.com

Prince George Northern Lights Estate Winery Ltd. Fruit wines northernlightswinery.ca

Join us for wine, snacks, parties & pop-ups

Small Lot

•

High Quality

We’re a farm-based boutique winery focused on farming and fermentations of Ortega, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and sparkling apple, produced by winemaker Kristi Shortt.

3960 Cottonwood Lane Naramata, B.C. 250-496-5600

2300 East Wellington Rd • Nanaimo 250-716-3549 • millstonewinery.ca

Pinot Gris — Rosé — Syrah — Pinot Noir

www.forgottenhillwineco.com

Where Adventure Meets Paradise

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Garagiste from renegAdes to reVolutionAries, t h i s w i n e m o V e m e n t i s h e r e t o s t Ay Laura Starr

W I N E

G E E K

L

eave it to the French to take a word as banal as “garage” and seduce us with a simple flick of the tongue: garagiste. It is a wine term you have likely heard before, though its definition is elusive.

It all began in the 1990s in Bordeaux when some winemakers, feeling smothered by regulations, defected to make wine on their own terms out of their garages. The wines were fittingly deemed “vins de garage” and their makers “garagistes.” To some, they were rebels and their wines disparaged; to others, they were revolutionaries making inspiringly avant-garde wines.

Over the years, the term has ebbed and flowed in popularity, trending upwards after a high score from a prominent critic, and trending down after others dismiss it as a fad. But this fad has planted some serious garagiste roots the world over.

Garagistes are hands-on, small-production winemakers (they often don’t own vines, and work out of a wine co-op or, yes, an actual garage) and they have a die-hard passion for crafting authentic wines.

That said, the parameters of garagiste are undefined.

Is it production-based (under 500 cases or 5,000 cases)?

What if they grow bigger? Do they follow minimal-intervention or natural-winemaking philosophies? Must they actually be located in a garage?

So let’s skip the definition since no one likes to be boxed in a category these days and just call it a spectrum.

And on a spectrum, the possibilities are limitless.

If you are curious about garagistes in British Columbia, you’ll be pleased to know we are a haven. Okanagan Crush Pad and BC Wine Studio are two co-op-style facilities that foster small production wineries; Meyer Family Vineyards hosts the custom crush for Mireille Sauvé’s charity project Les Dames wines; Kitsch winemaker Grant Biggs works out of an actual 1,000-square-foot garage (though he makes an astounding quantity of wine there). We also have Garagiste North, a B.C. garagiste wine festival (August 18, garagistenorth.com).

There are so many options, so keep the conversations flowing and you’ll find yourself naturally parked in this delicious culture.

T RY T H E S E B . C . V I N S D E G A R AG E Little Farm Winery Blind Creek Vineyard Rosé 2017 (Cabernet Franc) (Similkameen Valley, $22): Dry, juicy strawberries, savoury sage, stony minerality.

A Sunday in August Pinot Noir 2017 (Similkameen Valley, $27): Bright, crunchy cranberry; funky, savoury mushroom.

Chic Fille Pinot Blanc 2017 (Okanagan Valley, $30): Skin-contact Pinot Blanc?

Zest and texture baby!

Kitsch 7 Barrel Chardonnay 2017 (Okanagan Valley, $40): Sensual, creamy, baked apples and lemon, spicy vanilla.

Anthony Buchanan Wild Ferment Brut 2017 (Riesling) (Okanagan Valley, $22): Apples, citrus zest, and buttered toast.

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ISSUE 03

Distinctive, single vineyard wines that celebrate their origin.

Experience the magic of the caves

Named a Top 25 Winery and Top 10 Small Winery at the 2018 National Wine Awards.

Nestled on benchland overlooking the Similkameen Valley, Seven Stones Winery is well-known for its full-bodied red wines, a spectacular view and its mysterious caves.

Learn more about our caves and winemaking process with one of three unique tours.

Recognized as a Gold Level Sustainable business.

Spacious award-winning 1 and 2 bedroom suites available for a luxurious stay in wine country.

1143 Hwy 3, Cawston, BC 250-499-2144 sevenstones.ca

www.OrofinoVineyards.com | #SimilkameenRocks 2152 Barcelo Road, Cawston | (250)499-0068 Tasting room open 10-5 every day through October 31st