Vitis – Fall/Winter 2019

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Issue 04 O R GA N I C O K A N AGA N SCIENTIFIC PLANTINGS V E GA N V I N TAG E S CELLAR SECRETS H E R I TAG E V I N E YA R D S L I L LO O E T R I S I N G O L D V I N E S, N E W L I F E S O U T H A F R I CA N S I P S H O M E B LO C K C O M F O R T B.C. W I N E RY L I S T I N G S

With the most wine by the glass in Vancouver, our award winning wine list, warm ambiance and friendly service turn every meal into a special occasion.

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Contents

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06 – SIPS & NIBBLES News and trends from the world of Canadian wine 10 – WINE LIFE From crawl space to showcase: How the Wickaninnish Inn transformed its wine cellar

by Joanne Sasvari

THE GREENING OF WINE Our feature package looks at how vintners are growing eco-friendly initiatives in the vineyard and in the bottle: • Going organic across the province

by Charlene Rooke • Climate change research on the Island

by Cinda Chavich • Vegan wine, and how to find it

by Barb Wild • Whither B.C.’s sustainable certification?

by Tim Pawsey

12 – OENOPHILE A truly “superiore” UNESCO recognition for Prosecco

by Tim Pawsey 14 – B.C. WINE COUNTRY In Lillooet, a new wine region begins its next act

by Laura Starr 16 – IN THE VINEYARD The lasting legacy of B.C.’s oldest vines

by Tim Pawsey

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30 – WORLD OF WINE Drinking in the haunting beauty of South Africa’s Winelands

by Daenna Van Mulligen 34 – FOOD FOR THOUGHT Home Block dishes up something new

by Joanne Sasvari 38 – LISTINGS Your guide to B.C.’s wineries

Photo courtesy Blue Grouse Estate Winery

50 – WINE GEEK Bio + dynamic: the name says it all

by Barb Wild

PUBLISHER: Gail Nugent • gnugent@glaciermedia.ca

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR: Kelsey Klassen

EDITOR: Joanne Sasvari • jsasvari@glaciermedia.ca

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER: Dan Toulgoet (cover)

DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER: Tara Rafiq • trafiq@glaciermedia.ca

Vitis.ca @VitisMag • @VitisMag

PUBLISHED BY: Glacier Media Group 303 W. 5th Ave., Vancouver, BC V5Y 1J6 604-742-8678 © Vitis 2019 This issue is complimentary.

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Contributors JOANNE SASVARI is editor of Vitis and The Alchemist magazines. She is a WSET-certified writer who covers food and drink for publications including WestJet and Vancouver Sun, and is the author of the Wickaninnish and Vancouver Eats cookbooks.

CINDA CHAVICH is a Victoria-based food and wine journalist. She covers food and drink for YAM, EAT and TasteReport.com, has written for The Globe and Mail, WestJet and Maclean’s, and is author of The Waste Not, Want Not Cookbook.

TIM PAWSEY writes and shoots at hiredbelly. com as well as for publications including Quench, TASTE and Montecristo. He’s a frequent wine judge and is a founding member of the B.C. Hospitality Foundation.

CHARLENE ROOKE is a Vancouver-based writer (for The Globe and Mail, enRoute, The Alchemist and more) whose family has Okanagan roots as former Kelowna apple growers. She is WSET Certified in Wine and a WSET Spirits Educator.

LAURA STARR is a freelance writer, sommelier and educator, with 20 years under her belt in the hospitality industry. She is also the wine editor of VITA Magazine, and sits on the board of directors for the BCHF. DAENNA VAN MULLIGEN is a sommelier, educator, keynote speaker and radio host who launched WineDiva.ca 15 years ago, and WineScores.ca soon after. She is also a regular contributor to TASTE, Vines and Montecristo magazines.

Vitis travelled to Langley’s Backyard Vineyards to check out the harvest—here, winemaker Liam Berti inspects the Pinot Noir vines. Dan Toulgoet photo

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hen a major player like Anthony von Mandl announces he’s transforming all his Okanagan vineyards to organic, that is a serious shift in thinking. And he’s not alone. That shift toward more sustainable production is happening right across the world of wine.

That’s why, in this issue of Vitis, our writers are looking into some of the big issues surrounding sustainability in wine country. Charlene Rooke delves into the organic movement sweeping across the province. Tim Pawsey asks why B.C. has no sustainable certification—yet. Cinda Chavich checks out climate research on Vancouver Island. And Barb Wild samples vegan wines and defines biodymanics.

Meanwhile, we’re heading into fall, season of bold flavours, cosy gatherings and good reads by a crackling fire. Join us as we go deep into one of B.C.’s most remarkable wine cellars, explore wine regions old and new, and savour what’s cooking at Home Block, the Okanagan’s most exciting new restaurant.

Pour yourself a glass of your favourite fall wine, and join us for the journey.

Joanne Sasvari, editor

BARB WILD is the Good Wine Gal, and her goal is to help people discover what they like—without snobbery. Follow Good Wine Gal’s life of wine study, wine tastings and wine travel at goodwinegal.ca.

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Taste Award-Winning Wines at Clos du Soleil Winery Similkameen Valley, Keremeos, BC Wine shop open until October 31, 10am-5pm daily After October 31, please call for tasting appointments

www.closdusoleil.ca

250-499-2831

Experience 30 years of

Wine. Dine. Stay.

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QUAILSGATE.COM 5

Sips & Nibbles Vitis Staff

HERE’S TO YOU, JANCIS ROBINSON If your cupboards are crammed with variety-specific glassware, you might be tempted by a more streamlined approach to sipping. You might, in fact, be tempted

by Jancis Robinson’s universal wineglass, made by the UK’s Richard Brendon “to offer the best tasting experience for every wine, whatever its colour, style or strength, including Champagne, port, sherry and beyond.”

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You can now find it for sale at several wineries in the Okanagan Valley, including Painted Rock, Poplar Grove and Okanagan Crush Pad, whose co-owner, Christine Coletta, has had a working relationship with Robinson since the 1990s.

These wineries were part of a delegation that travelled to London this summer to promote Canadian wine at the annual Canada House tasting arranged by Global Affairs Canada. The Okanagan Wine Initiative wineries also took part in a tasting at Selfridges that resulted in B.C. wines being carried at that grand department store.

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spirit that fuelled Napa’s pioneers is certainly evident in B.C. today and the wines are increasingly impressive. she produced two pieces praising B.C.’s wines in the Financial Times and on her own website. “The collaborative and creative spirit that fuelled Napa’s pioneers is certainly evident in B.C. today… and the wines are increasingly impressive,” she wrote in the Financial Times.

The affection is mutual, at least when it comes to Robinson’s glassware, which is as elegant as it is practical—it’s even dishwasher safe. Among the items in the lineup are the sleek wineglass, Young Wine Decanter and Old Wine Decanter. Prices vary, depending on the retailer, from $45 to $65 for the wineglass and $125 to $230 for the decanters.

For more info, visit richardbredon.com or contact the wineries directly. Alternatively, if you can’t get to the valley to pick up your glasses, the line is also available online through the Toronto luxury retailer Hopson Grace. hopsongrace.com

BOTTOM: The Jancis Robinson x Richard Brendon collection. RicharedBrendon.com photos

ABOVE: Jancis Robinson

Most excitingly, Robinson, arguably the most pre-eminent wine critic on the planet, was so impressed by what she tasted that

“The collaborative and creative

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SOMMELIER SUCCESS Congratulations to Christina Hartigan, who, as of this summer, is one step closer to membership in the rarified club that is the Court of Master Sommeliers.

The Wildebeest wine director became an Advanced Sommelier after passing the challenging examination this July in Phoenix.

Hartigan joins B.C.’s six other Advanced Sommeliers: Sean Nelson of Hawksworth; Mark Shipway of the Lifford Wine Import Agency; Robert Stelmachuk at Mott 32; Shane Taylor of Top Table Group; Alistair Veen of Tap Restaurant in South Surrey; and wine importer Andrés Villegas.

Jonathan Norton photo

The Master Sommelier diploma is the highest distinction a professional can attain in fine wine and beverage service. Since the first successful Master Sommelier examination was held in the UK in 1969, only 165 professionals have earned the title as part of the Americas chapter. So far, no Master Sommeliers call Western Canada home, but Canada has five: three in Ontario and two in Quebec. courtofmastersommeliers.org

MOURNING THE LOSS OF HARRY MCWATTERS British Columbia’s tight-knit wine community is still reeling from the sudden passing of industry pioneer Harry McWatters, who died peacefully in his sleep on July 23 at the age of 74.

His loss is immense. As long as there has been a B.C. wine industry, there has been Harry McWatters, and it’s hard to imagine what it will be like without him.

McWatters began his career in sales at Casabello Wines in 1968, and ended it as proprietor of TIME Winery & Kitchen in downtown Penticton. In between, he celebrated 50 harvests as a visionary and tireless leader in the evolution of quality wine growing, making and marketing in this province.

His was a career of firsts. In 1979, he founded Sumac Ridge, B.C.’s first operating estate winery, where he also opened the province’s first winery restaurant, produced its first commercially successful sparkling wine and became the first to crack the $50-a-bottle price ceiling. He also helped found the Vintners Quality Alliance Canada, the trade association that

Darren Hull photo

monitors national wine standards, and served as its first chairman. He was the founding chairman of the B.C. Wine Institute, B.C. Hospitality Foundation, British Columbia Wine Information Society and the Okanagan Wine Festival Society, and sat on countless other boards.

It’s fair to say that he affected every single person who grows, makes, sells, serves or simply enjoys B.C. wine. He will be deeply missed.

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UPCOMING EVENTS Update your fall/winter calendar right here.

O K A N AGA N FA L L W I N T E R F E S T I VA L October 3 to 13 The valley’s biggest celebration features dozens of dinners, tastings, parties and more. Signature events include the prestigious B.C. Lieutenant Governor’s Wine Awards; Sensation, a food, wine, art, music and culture pairing event; and the Fall WestJet Wine Tastings. thewinefestivals.com

E AT ! VA N C O U V E R F O O D + C O O K I N G F E S T I VA L

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November 4 to 9 The annual foodie fest features a series of collaboration dinners between local and celebrated North American chefs, as well as signature events such as the EAT! Harvest Party and EAT! Pastry Day. eat-vancouver.com

CORNUCOPIA November 7 to 17 Head to the hills for 10 days of wine, spirits, beer, food and fresh mountain air at Whistler’s annual celebration of food and drink. whistlercornucopia.com

D I N E O U T VA N C O U V E R F E S T I VA L January 17 to February 2, 2020 Start the New Year right with 17 satisfying days of delicious dining. Aside from dozens (and dozens) of restaurants offering prix-fixe menus, the fest features BC VQA wine pairings, food tours, masterclasses and global guest-chef collaborations. dineoutvancouver.com

VA N C O U V E R I N T E R N AT I O N A L W I N E F E S T I VA L February 25 to March 1, 2020 Oooh la la, France is back as the theme region for the 42nd annual festival, which will feature more than 50 events as well as the not-to-be-missed international tastings, where 700-plus wines will be poured. vanwinefest.ca

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OUR ROOTS RUN DEEP.

Wines of distinction that are an intensely flavoured expression of our historic vineyard.

WWW.HESTERCREEK.COM

WINERY OF THE YEAR 2018/2019 InterVin International Wine Awards

4 0 0 SMY THE DRIV E , PENTIC TON BC 250 493 6809 PAI N T E DROC K.CA

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A stellar cellar AT T H E W I C K A N I N N I S H I N N , A R E M A R K A B L E T R A N S F O R M AT I O N BRINGS ITS WINES TO LIGHT

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Joanne Sasvari

Large-format bottles and precious reds take centre stage in the Wickaninnish Inn’s new showcase wine cellar. Kyler Vos photo

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’ve seen wine stored in chalk caves in Champagne, tucked in baroque tunnels beneath a German palace and displayed in a 250,000-bottle warren of rooms, including a famous “Cognateque,” at the legendary Bahamian mansion called Graycliff. I’ve seen wine cellars humble and haute, but nothing to compare with the one at the Wickaninnish Inn—not the newly built one, and not the one it’s replacing.

“It was a long-time dream to have a showcase wine cellar,” says Charles McDiarmid, managing director of the resort on Tofino’s Chesterman Beach. “Our principal wine cellar before this is right under The Pointe restaurant. But it’s four feet, six inches high, and it’s undulating, because the concrete was just poured over the rock.”

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“I never realized I was

claustrophobic until I got in there.

ABOVE: Wickaninnish Inn wine director Ike Seaman, at the hatchlike entrance to the old wine cellar.

RIGHT: A peek inside the Inn’s claustrophobic old wine cellar. Joanne Sasvari photos

He laughs. “Our architect said, ‘I never realized I was claustrophobic until I got in there.’ ” That’s right. The cellar that ensured the Inn’s membership in Relais & Châteaux and earned it dozens of awards since opening in 1996 is literally a crawl space accessed by a waist-level hatch near the kitchen.

Inside, it’s dim and cool, climate controlled by the rocks below and the ocean thundering just outside. Boxes of wine are wedged into shelves built by the Inn’s first bartender. Bits of rock jut through the rough concrete.

The ceiling is so low, servers often need to get on their hands and knees to find that bottle of Okanagan Pinot Noir.

Or at least they did. Now, after years of planning, design and construction, the Wick’s new wine cellar is open, and it’s a beauty.

Howard’s Wine Cellar (named for McDiarmid’s father, who had a fondness for Bordeaux’s bold reds), was blasted out of the hard stone under the former private dining room, which is now a staircase. McDiarmid himself set off the last two charges, the ones closest to The Pointe’s foundation. “It was a little nerve-racking,” he says, “knowing the responsibility was all mine.”

A glass door opens to the main cellar space. On one side are seven sleek Vinopro refrigerators, each holding a dozen cases of white, rosé or sparkling wine. On the other side, behind a glass wall, softly lit redwood units built

by Mike Kusick at Surrey’s Cellar Solutions display Burgundy and Rhône reds to the left, Bordeaux to the right.

“And,” says wine director Ike Seaman, “in the centre is Italy, Spain, Portugal and cool things like that.” The Inn still offers a large selection of B.C. wines, but Seaman notes, “Guests going into a higher-end market have an expectation of selection.”

The refrigerators and red wine room flank a comfortable gathering space with a long table for dinners, receptions and meetings. “In the cellar, we really wanted a place that was quite multi-purpose,” Seaman says. “But we also wanted it to be comfortable. So the wine is behind glass and chilled, but the floor in here is heated.”

Glamorous though it is, this cellar isn’t just about showing off fancy bottles like the precious 1982 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru. It’s about building a thoughtful collection of age-worthy bottles, with the intention of establishing greater vintage depth “and also provide a little bit of value, too,” Seaman says.

“This wine cellar for the first decade will be the workhorse before it becomes the show horse.”

Certainly, it’s a far cry from a claustrophobic crawl space on the edge of the sea. “We were so fortunate to have it,” McDiarmid says, a little wistfully. “It has been an evolving story.”

A new staircase, blasted out of the rock under The Pointe restaurant, leads to the Howard’s Wine Cellar at the Wickaninnish Inn. Joanne Sasvari photo

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O E N O P H I L E

A truly superior Prosecco T H E S T E E P H I L L S O F C O N E G L I A N O VA L D O B B I A D E N E D E C L A R E D A U N E S C O W O R L D H E R I TA G E S I T E Tim Pawsey

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igh above Italy’s Veneto region, the winemaking sisters of Sorelle Bronca, Antonella and Ersiliana, are showing me the lay of their land. As we climb the last few vertiginous metres of the vineyard, I experience a slight shortness of breath and realize just why this unique place is hailed for its “heroic viticulture.”

We’re in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene, the hilly region that produces the aptly named DOCG Prosecco Superiore. It was recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a declaration that recognizes its historical importance and underscores its difference from its mass-produced DOC poor cousin below.

In contrast to the flat lowlands that satisfy the huge demand for cheap supermarket fizz, Conegliano Valdobbiadene’s hogback hills, known as “ciglioni,” produce the top tier wines of Prosecco. In fact, they account for just one in five bottles made. Typically, the sites are on slopes of 45 degrees or steeper, sometimes as precipitous as 70 degrees, and zig-zagged with narrow terraces of vines.

It requires dogged dedication to grow the grapes that go into Prosecco Superiore, especially as up here, all is tended by hand. No vineyard mechanization exists aside from the rare funicular mini tram that hauls brimming bins up one impossibly steep vineyard. Pruning, training, thinning and harvesting are all performed manually, as they have been for generations.

The process to achieve industrial recognition as a World Heritage Site is an arduous one. In this case, it commenced well over a decade ago. Yet that period pales in comparison to the generations these hilly slopes have been worked, in many cases by the same families since the 1700s and earlier. Even the local church of Saint Pietro di Feletto, which dates from 1000 AD, features a fresco depicting implements associated with viticulture.

LEFT: UNESCO recognized not just the unique hogback vineyards of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, but its centuries of winemaking history. Arcangelo Piai photo

The UNESCO declaration serves to recognize and protect those numerous aspects of terroir.

“Right from the beginning, and throughout the entire nomination process, they have never wavered in their belief in the uniqueness of our landscape, with its vineyard-embroidered hills and inaccessible slopes that require such hard and entirely manual labour,” says Innocente Nardi, president of the Consortium for the Protection of Conegliano Valodbbiadene.

Of course, Congeliano Valodbbiadene is not the first wine region to be recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The entire City of Bordeaux, as well as parts of the Loire Valley and Middle Rhine are also on the heritage list.

More noteworthy is that the cultural landscape of Le Colline del Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene was added very specifically for its human-shaped terrain and viticultural practices. In that it joins other unique viticultural areas such as Pico Island in the Azores, Hungary’s Tokaji (Europe’s first appellation) and Portugal’s Douro, as well as Piedmont’s Langhe-Roero and Monferrato regions, where, UNESCO notes, “Vine pollen has been found in the area dating from the 5th century BC, when Piedmont was a place of contact and trade between the Etruscans and the Celts.”

In great part due to their higher elevation vineyards, DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene wines tend to be more fruit driven and greatly benefit from increased natural ripeness, making them yet more distinct from the larger pool of DOC wines. It’s for this reason (and for many others) that Prosecco Superiore producers are placing more and more emphasis on the DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene place of specific origin and much less on the grape itself.

The UNESCO declaration enables the hilly region as well as its even higher-valued “Cartizze” wines to emphasize even more that critical point of difference.

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They have never wavered in their belief in the uniqueness of our landscape, with its vineyard-embroidered hills and inaccessible slopes that require such hard and entirely manual labour.

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Lillooet’s hot new promise AS A SECOND WINERY OPENS, A W I N E R E G I O N E V O LV E S I N T H E F O R M E R G O L D R U S H T O W N

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Laura Starr

Surrounded by sun-baked hills, the award-winning Fort Berens Estate Winery was the first in Lillooet. Brad Kasselman photo

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ntil recently, the Fraser Canyon town of Lillooet was best known for its rich Aboriginal and gold rush heritage and its roasting heat, persistently rivalling Osoyoos for the hottest spot in Canada. Now, thanks to those high temperatures, it has a tasty new heading as one of B.C.’s most promising wine regions.

In 2018, a 100-kilometre stretch of land in Lillooet was recognized as a Geographical Indication (GI), making this an official wine region in British Columbia. What is particularly fascinating is that at the time of designation, it had only one licensed winery, the pioneering Fort Berens Estate Winery. The second, Cliff and Gorge Vineyards, just released its first vintage in July 2019.

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And then there were two.

Most winery dreamers start out looking in the Okanagan Valley, but with skyrocketing land prices, it is no wonder people are venturing to more affordable regions like Kamloops, the Kootenays and Lillooet.

What makes Lillooet so ideal for growing grapes is its hot, dry, sunny summers—with more growing degree days even than Osoyoos—paired with cooler evenings, thanks to the protection from the Coast Mountains. The heat ripens the grapes, while the cool nights preserve the acidity, a signature trait in B.C. wines.

It was those conditions that prompted wine-growing pioneer Robert Roshard to plant the first experimen-

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tal vineyard here back in the 1960s; indeed, some of his Marechal Foch vines are still thriving. But it took another four decades for wine-making to really catch on.

In 2009, Rolf de Bruin and Heleen Pannekoek, recent immigrants from the Netherlands, decided to pursue their dream of owning a winery in what then seemed like no man’s land and opened Fort Berens Estate Winery.

Although the endeavor was backed by all the right people (there are eight owners, with a wine-focused board of directors), it took heroic amounts of research and hard work to establish the vineyards and the wines.

But to de Bruin, starting in Lillooet “was the best thing that happened to us.” He also gives credit to the 2010 Olympic Games for piquing interest in the region, with Whistler claiming Fort Berens as its “local” winery. Notable winemaker James Cambridge is owed his dues as well, having set the benchmarks for some of their first runs of wine (we’re looking at you, 2012 Riesling). He recently returned after a few years away, so we can anticipate more great wines to emerge.

In 2019, Fort Berens celebrated its 10-year anniversary, a decade brimming with awards for some of B.C.’s most impressive wines.

But even before de Bruin arrived, former Municipality of Whistler councillor Eckhard Zeidler started planting grapes here in 2008. This year, the sole proprietor and winemaker of Cliff and Gorge Vineyards released his first vintage, including a Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. He is adamant in showcasing purity of fruit. His wines undergo no adulteration, including no use of oak, so you can taste the honest expression of the vineyard. For a first run, he is showing a true knack for making balanced, quality wines.

There are a handful of other non-commercial vineyards in the area, and more in the works, although no new wineries are slated to open right now. Despite its exciting potential, Lillooet has its viticultural challenges, including the threat of early frost and wildfires. But the real challenge is less about weather and more about red tape. The Agricultural Land Commission delineates the parcels of land available and, according to Zeidler and de Bruin, they are all too large for independent farmers to buy, whether for grapes or other crops.

To de Bruin, it stunts innovation. “When small parcels open, small new farmers do interesting things,” he says. Zeidler, no stranger to politics himself, acknowledges the ALC has its hands tied, as all provincial regions are governed by the same rules, grouping Lillooet alongside cities like Richmond or Prince George, regardless of their unique and independent needs. Those large parcels

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Where a wine region develops its character is through the smaller wineries.

Cowboy past and winemaking future come together at Cliff and Gorge Vineyards. Supplied photo

might not intimidate larger companies, but, Zeidler says, “Where a wine region develops its character is through the smaller [wineries]. Purchasing a 500-acre ranch to plant 20 acres of grapevines just doesn’t make economic or agricultural sense.”

Time will tell how Lillooet grows as a wine region, but with hardworking innovators such as de Bruin and Zeidler at the reins, it’s hard not to believe something great is coming. Who knows? Perhaps the next gold rush will be discovered in a bottle of Lillooet VQA wine.

A TA S T E O F L I L LO O E T Fort Berens Cabernet Franc 2016 (Lillooet, $28) Full body, brambly dark fruit, spicy.

Fort Berens Riesling Reserve 2017 (Lillooet, $24) Citrus, spicy, candied oranges, mineral backbone.

Fort Berens Sparkling Rosé X 2018 (Lillooet, $23) Candied red fruit, round bubbles.

Cliff and Gorge Pinot Auxerrois 2018 (Lillooet, $18) Soft white stone fruit, round, clean.

Cliff and Gorge Cabernet Franc 2018 (Lillooet, $18) Clean, crunchy red fruit, bright acidity.

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Old vines’ time has come C E L E B R AT I N G S I G N S O F A G E I N B . C . ’ S Y O U T H F U L W I N E R E G I O N S Tim Pawsey

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couple of decades back, years before Gray Monk Estate Winery was purchased by its current owner, co-founder Trudy Heiss shared a story about Siegerrebe. There was pressure from “others” in the family to remove the variety, a cross between Gewürztraminer and Madeleine Angevine.

“I told them: ‘Pull it out and next morning there’ll be a body in the parking lot,’ ” she said, only half joking.

No surprise, the Siegerrebe (which had come to B.C. in the 1970s with the Becker Project that oversaw trial plantings of 27 classic European vinis vinifera varieties) remained in Gray Monk’s portfolio. What Heiss well understood was its popularity—not only in her own glass, but also in the tasting room. Heiss was pushing back against a common practice at the time: to defer to marketers dictating that in order for B.C. to compete on the world stage it needed to grow only varieties well known in the mainstream. Not to mention those with names easy to pronounce.

Happily, Heiss wasn’t the only one to recognize the value in preserving “legacy” plantings. In many instances they’ve become signature (if somewhat esoteric) wines sought by consumers in search of something different. Moreover, in a twist of irony, that “old vines” moniker today brings undisputed cachet.

In another twist, Siegerrebe plantings, while still diminutive, have actually increased. Several wineries beyond the Okanagan—such as Recline Ridge and Sunnybrae

O L D V I N E S , N E W TA S T E S Gray Monk Siegerrebe 2018, planted early 1970s (Okanagan Valley, $16.59) Tropical, orchard, citrus, floral.

Conviction Sovereign Opal 2018, planted 1976 (Okanagan Valley, $14.49) Off-dry, orchard fruits, citrus, pear, luscious.

St. Hubertus Riesling 2018, planted 1978 (Okanagan Valley, $18) Lemon-lime, mineral undertone, lingering zesty close.

Sperling Vineyards The Market Red 2017, planted 1970/1990 (Okanagan Valley, $20) Red berries, fresh and juicy, minimal oak.

Quails’ Gate Old Vines Foch Reserve 2016, planted 1960s (Okanagan Valley, $46.99) Dark berries, vanilla, black cherry, spice, tobacco.

Hester Creek Trebbiano 2017, planted 1968 (Golden Mile Bench, $20.99) Citrus, honey, tropical, mango, papaya, mineral, juicy acidity.

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Hester Creek’s Trebbiano vines are over 50 years old. Lionel Trudel photo

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In another twist, Siegerrebe plantings, while still diminutive, have actually increased.

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Singletree’s Siegerrebe vines.

Justine Russo photo

in the Shuswap, Singletree and Chaberton in the Fraser Valley and, on Vancouver Island, 40 Knots, Beaufort and Rocky Creek—have embraced it.

Few grapes are as polarizing as Marechal Foch, a rustic red hybrid the late Harry McWatters used to joke that he loved—most of all pulled out, its vines chopped up and burned on the barbecue! However, despite being sometimes disparaged, a number of older Foch plantings remain.

Sperling Vineyards artfully blends fruit from 50-year-old Foch with 30-year-old Pinot Noir in its popular Market Red. And at Quails’ Gate (which once used not to even bother making it into wine), the 50-plus-year-old vines command a considerable following.

These days Old Vines Foch Reserve consistently sells out.

Indeed, there’s a flickering of a hybrid revival. In Kamloops, Monte Creek blends Marquette and Frontenac Noir with Merlot to make Hands Up Red, while Frontenac Blanc, La Crescent and Frontenac Gris produce Hands Up White. And bullish Markus Frind (who bankrolled his West Kelowna Frind Estate Winery from the sale of his online dating service, Plenty of Fish) is planting Regent, a red hybrid grown in his native Bavaria.

Still, it’s the old vines, particularly vinifera, that capture our imagination. Among the most notable (and unique): Hester Creek’s Trebbiano, which maverick Joe Busnardo planted at what was then Divino Winery in 1968; and the world’s only known Sovereign Opal, which dates from 1976. It’s produced by Conviction Vineyard (B.C.’s oldest winery, formerly known as Calona Vineyards), from vines in the Mission District’s almost century-old Casorso Vineyard.

ISSUE 04

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The greening of wine

S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

E C O - F R I E N D LY W I N E M A K I N G H A S G O N E M A I N S T R E A M .

I T ’ S N O T J U S T G O O D F O R T H E P L A N E T. I T ’ S A L S O G O O D F O R P R O D U C I N G G R E AT W I N E

Okanagan Crush Pad Matsu Drive Vineyard. Lionel Trudel photo

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nyone who still doubts the climate is changing must not be spending much time in the vineyard.

Just ask Anthony von Mandl. The proprietor of Mission Hill Family Estate and other wineries recently noted that, at the current rate of warming, Napa Valley will soon be able to grow only “Cabernet Sauvignon and table grapes.”

Vines are thriving further and further to the north. Grapes like Syrah and Tempranillo are growing in regions that would have been impossible just a few years ago—and even France is allowing new varieties to be planted “for climate and environmental adaptation.” Harvest in many wine regions is earlier each year, and so is bud break. Wildfires have become an annual threat.

But it’s not just a changing climate that has vintners like von Mandl learning to adapt. All over British Columbia, winemakers and growers are keeping the planet in mind by reducing chemicals, water use and energy consumption. They’re building LEED-certified tasting rooms. They’re planting thoughtfully.

They’re even going vegan. And all that care for the planet ultimately translates into better-tasting wine.

In the following pages, Vitis looks at some of the most planet-friendly initiatives under way in B.C.

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Vibrant vineyards, vibrant wine WHY SO MANY B.C. WINERIES ARE TURNING ORGANIC, A N D W H AT I T M E A N S F O R W I N E L O V E R S .

S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

Charlene Rooke

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“I truly believe in five years’ time B.C. could be 50 per cent organic wine.

LEFT: Mission Hill Family Estate’s vineyards are all being turned to organic farming. Photo courtesy of Mission Hill Family Estate OPPOSITE PAGE: The ducks enjoy the sustainable setting at Okanagan Crush Pad. Lionel Trudel photo

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ust over a decade since Canada regulated organic food products, maybe you’re turning to organic wine to reduce your intake of synthetic chemicals. Or maybe you just want to help save the American kestrel.

The population of these colourful falcons is dwindling almost everywhere—except at some of Mission Hill’s Osoyoos-area vineyards. Assistant viticulturalist Grant McKinnon recently erected nine kestrel nesting boxes, hoping they’d encourage the population to grow and help provide natural bio-control for pests feasting on wine grapes. “I am happy to report that two boxes were successfully nested with a total of nine fledglings,” he says.

It’s a perfect example of how organic wine can be a win-win.

Although organic regulations limit the use of artificial fertilizers, pesticides and fungicides (as well as most of the 80-some additives that can go into conventional wine), it’s not just consumer demand for cleaner food and drink that is pushing British Columbia wineries to go organic. Stewardship and restoring ecosystems are the bigger picture.

“We need to leave the land in a better place than when we found it,” says Darryl Brooker, president of Mission Hill Family Estate. The Okanagan’s largest vineyard owner is in the process of converting all the

W H AT I S “ O R GA N I C W I N E ” ?

Label terms like “organically farmed” or “made with organic grapes” have no legal standing in Canada. To be “organic wines,” the grapes, vineyard and winery must all be certified, and rigorously inspected (sometimes by surprise visit) by one of several accredited groups.

We’ve all heard anecdotally of wineries that say they follow organic practices, but don’t pursue certification. So why go certified organic?

“Certification holds everybody accountable at the same level,” says Mission Hill president Darryl Brooker.

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On Vancouver Island, Blue Grouse Estate Winery is preparing to begin the three-year transition to organic. Leanna Rathkelly photo

G O N O R T H : C L I M AT E CHANGE AND WINE This past spring, when B.C. wine authority John Schreiner gave a 100-point score to CheckMate Artisanal Winery’s 2015 Little Pawn Chardonnay, winery owner Anthony von Mandl thanked Mother Nature, calling it a “climate-change enabled” wine. Hotter California weather means that ideal growing conditions have “shifted north for Chardonnay,” said von Mandl, citing a consult from Oregon-based academic Dr. Gregory Jones.

While scorching weather is reducing yields in parched wine regions from Australia to South Africa, some of B.C.’s most recently named regions—Thompson Okanagan, Shuswap, Lillooet—are on the northern edge of grapevines’ known extremes. Dr. Jones told a full-house B.C. Wine Institute forum last year that one degree of annual average temperature change will alter which grape varieties can successfully grow in global regions.

While warming can be good news for a growing industry in cool-climate zones like B.C., it can spell trouble for dry-farming—and for wildfires, which have become something of an annual occurrence in the Okanagan.

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“We have bigger clusters, bigger

berries, bigger bunches of grapes.

The fruit is clean, the flavours are full-bodied and delicious. company’s land and wineries to organic farming certified through Ecocert. “I truly believe in five years’ time B.C. could be 50 per cent organic [wine],” says Brooker.

The company’s CedarCreek Estate Winery will have its first organic harvest this fall and plans to release organic whites next year.

Organic growing has its challenges. Even in the Okanagan, where cold-snap winters lower the risks of disease-causing vine pests, Okanagan Crush Pad, certified organic since 2014 under the Pacific Agricultural Certification Society (PACS), recently noticed leaf hoppers attacking its vines. Operations manager Julian Scholefield says, “For the price of an organic spray, we could buy insects instead and just let them go.” So far, thousands of ladybugs (from thebuglady.com) seem to be doing the job.

“You have to farm differently,” Scholefield says.

When OCP started farming organically back in 2011, labour costs immediately increased and crop yields decreased, at least initially. “That first year, the vineyard didn’t like it very much. It suffered from losing the ‘chicken nugget diet’ it had been on,” he laughs, com-

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O R GA N I C I N T H E G L A S S Haywire Switchback Organic Pinot Gris 2017 (Summerland/Okanagan Valley, $26.90) Bright but creamy, lush stone fruit.

Blue Grouse Estate Ortega 2018 (Duncan/Cowichan Valley, $23) Delicately mineral, floral, juicy citrus.

Mission Hill Winery Whispering Hill Organic Merlot 2014 (Okanagan Valley, $20) Red berries, fresh and juicy, minimal oak.

Photo courtesy of Wine2Water

paring chemical fertilizer to human junk food. “Then suddenly we said, ‘Here is your salad!’ ” Today, crop sizes have rebounded and, he says, “We have bigger clusters, bigger berries, bigger bunches of grapes. The fruit is clean, the flavours are full-bodied and delicious.”

Weeds also grow better organically, though. Organic farming in the humid, maritime Cowichan Valley region, where grasses and clovers can continue to grow year-round, is a different challenge, says vineyard manager Michael Abbott at Blue Grouse Estate Winery. “The soil needs to be dry in the spring before I can get out there in a tractor to clear all these weeds that have been growing all winter long.” Blue Grouse is already following many practices required in its three-year transition period to organic, expected to start in 2020. “It takes three years for chemicals to work their way out of your soil system, even though you’re farming organically the whole time,” Abbott says.

To encourage biodiversity, Blue Grouse has introduced more than 20 acres of cover crops, with a focus on flowering plants that appeal to residents of its 30 beehives. By harvesting an annual honey crop, “now we’re able to get a two-for-one with the same ground,” says Abbott, who has a degree in ecology and calls organic farming not just a solution but a lifestyle.

The road to organic has an offshoot of wine-tourism interest, too. Mission Hill’s Brooker says visitors to the wineries are intrigued by everything from the use of compost and manure from neighbouring farms to the mobile chicken coops that bring natural pest control to vineyards in need. “You see their interest when you start talking about what we’re doing in our vineyards on the path to certification... they ask so many more questions.”

Increasingly for B.C. wineries, the answer is organic.

WATER OF LIFE Winemaking can be a water-intensive business. But while Canada is blessed with plenty of fresh water, many places in the world are not. That’s why Dawn and Doug Reimer, owners of Kelowna’s Mirabel Vineyards, founded Wine2Water this past July. This new initiative directs a little slice of a wine’s proceeds to clean water projects in developing countries W2W has partnered with Acts of Water, a Canadian charity with 30 years of success bringing clean water to Africa. Participating wineries display the W2W logo on wine bottles or tasting samples for consumers to easily spot at shops, wineries and at events like this past August’s Pinot Noir Festival and Feast of Fields.

The remittance process to the charity is streamlined and simple. “We make it a no-brainer,” says Acts of Water CEO Jeff Golby. “Wineries can come on board at whatever giving level makes sense for them based on the product,” he says. For instance, if a winery directs 20 cents a bottle to W2W, the charity can raise $2— the magic number to provide clean water for one child for one year—with less than a case of wine sold.

The charity’s administrative work is funded by backers like the Reimers, so 100 per cent of the sales proceeds can go to charitable work. We’ll drink to that. wine2water.ca

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Testing Island terroir I N A C H A N G I N G C L I M AT E , S C I E N T I S T S AT T E M P T T O Q U A N T I F Y R I P E N E S S Cinda Chavich

Pinot Gris grapes. istockphoto.com photo

S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

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s every winemaker knows, a critical decision in the vineyard is choosing the perfect time to pick.

That’s the challenge facing growers in Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley, a fledgling wine region with unique terroir. But this summer there were scientists among the vines, testing some popular vineyard management techniques and quantifying the results in their lab.

“When I spoke with Island growers, the biggest questions were around ripening—when to pick and how to manage the vineyard to maximize flavour,” says Dr. John Volpe, a University of Victoria ecologist who is leading the team working at Unsworth Vineyards, Blue Grouse Estate Winery and Enrico Winery.

Grape growers use various means to enhance quality and ripeness, whether it’s thinning clusters to concentrate the plant’s resources or removing leaves to expose the fruit to more sunshine. And while these viticulture practices are popular in many parts of the world, Volpe says there’s been little “empirical evaluation” or science to measure the molecular changes in the grapes or the result in the finished wine.

“We will be using mass spectrometry to measure the diversity of aroma- and flavour-producing compounds in the grapes,” he says. “Then we will be making wine to determine the cost and benefit to winegrowers. There are a huge number of research questions that need to be answered.”

It’s all about sugar levels and “physiological” or “phe-

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nolic” ripeness—that sweet spot in maturation that can make a significant difference in the glass. The typical testing of sugar (Brix) and acidity (pH) in the lab, with physical observations of stem and seed colour, is helpful but often subjective, says Volpe.

Researchers will quantify the changes in Pinot Gris grapes using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) to identify scientific markers of physiological ripeness. After the harvest this fall, the researchers will be making “at least a dozen different wines” in their lab, Volpe says. Those wines will then be evaluated by sensory panels to determine how vineyard management techniques translate into perceived quality in the glass.

The researchers are working with the Wine Island Growers Association and the Investment Agriculture Foundation of B.C., with funding from the provincial government and Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada. Andrew Watts, the vineyard manager at Unsworth, will use this research as the foundation for his master of science thesis in environment studies.

Volpe has long focused his research on links between ecological and social responsibility, especially in the area marine conservation, fisheries and aquaculture. The shift to the island’s fledgling wine industry reflects his interest in wine (Volpe is also a certified sommelier) and the effects of climate change on local ecology.

Temperatures are warming quickly in the Cowichan Valley. Scientists predict a 28 per cent increase in the length of the growing season by 2050 and a 49 per cent increase in growing degree days. At the same time, the amount of summer rainfall is expected to decrease by 17 per cent, putting additional strain on already stressed water supplies.

“Terroir, as it relates to wine, is really the co-evolution of a people and their place, a result of trial and error over time,” Volpe says. The research aims to fast track that knowledge base, to help local wineries optimize production as growing conditions evolve.

“Vancouver Island is on the cusp of something big,” he adds. “It’s a terrific opportunity for UVic to become a potential partner in the Island wine scene, and a wonderful test arena for some of the broader ideas exploring the overlap between ecology and food and wine production.”

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Dr. John Volpe examines grapes at Unsworth Vineyards in the Cowichan Valley, part of his climate research project. Vineyards. Supplied photo

“Vancouver Island is on the cusp

of something big.

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The vintage vegan FROM BUGS TO BIRDS TO HUMANS, MORE AND MORE WINERIES ARE THINKING OF THE ANIMALS FIRST Barb Wild

chickens, sheep and cows often share the land. What’s healthy for biodiversity might not feed a vegan mindset. istockphoto.com photos

S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

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hile I am not vegan, I appreciate the ethical choice behind the “no harm to animals” ideal. Along with food and fashion, wine is niching into vegan-friendly offerings that are often more environmentally sustainable. If you’re looking to drink wine made without animal products, here’s what to look for.

FINER FINING AGENTS

NON-CONVENTIONAL BRANDS Large, conventional, modern wine brands are generally mechanized in the vineyard and the winery, bringing efficiency, volume and cost savings. Grape harvesting is done by a modified tractor that shakes and pulls fruit— along with bugs, birds, nests and even critters like mice and lizards—into the mix. Modern wineries have optical sorters to spot and remove debris, but nonetheless, vegans: be aware.

Winemakers use a fining agent to draw out particles that can make a wine look cloudy and taste astringent. Traditionally, winemakers used animal proteins—egg whites, gelatin, casein (dairy protein) or isinglass (collagen extracted from fish bladders)—which, even in very small amounts, are not vegan. Today, clay-based bentonite, which leaves no taste or trace, is often used to make vegan-friendly wines.

ORGANIC WINE (MAYBE) Wines made with grapes from organic, biodynamic or sustainable vineyards and following low-intervention winemaking practices are typically healthier for the land and increasingly sought out by wine lovers. However, consider that animal manure is often used on organic farms to condition the soil for vine health; on biodiverse farms

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BEYOND THE LABEL Many great wines are vegan friendly, including those from California’s Ridge Vineyards and Italy’s Vietti di Castiglioni Falletto. But you wouldn’t know it from the labels. Online resources like Barnivore.com can help locate vegan wines. Your local wine shop might have shelf labels or a dedicated section—and if not, ask for it. They might just start stocking bottles from Summerhill Pyramid Winery, an Okanagan producer that proudly puts “Organic and Vegan” on its labels.

B . C . S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y C E R T I F I C AT I O N I N T H E W O R K S Unlike wine-producing regions such as Argentina, Chile, Oregon and New Zealand, British Columbia doesn’t have formal sustainable certification—at least not yet. However, under the auspices of the B.C. Wine Grape Council, plans are underway to have a system of verified certification in place, possibly as soon as mid-2020.

An all-volunteer committee of industry professionals from winery, vineyard and hospitality sectors has been hard at work building the Sustainable Winegrowing B.C. program since 2016.

Each year brings the reality a little closer.

V E GA N W I N E T I M E Want your sips to be more animal friendly?

Try these vegan wines from B.C. producers.

Bella Wines Mariana CL509 Gamay Rosé Methode Ancestrale Sparkling 2018 (Naramata Bench, $44.50) Pink bubbles, dry, mashed red berries, white pepper, crushed rocks.

Okanagan Crush Pad Narrative Rosé 2018 (Summerland, $17.49) Bright pink, dry, muddled strawberry and herbs.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Alive Organic White 2018 (Kelowna, $16.99) Bright, aromatic stone fruit, mock orange blossoms, citrusy finish.

Rust Wine Co. Gamay Noir 2018 (Golden Mile Bench, $23) Ripe red and black cherry, Similkameen rocks, pepper spice.

Clos du Soleil Signature 2015 (Bordeaux blend) (Similkameen, $45.99) Intense black fruit, spice box, pepper sage, wet rocks.

A wealth of resources is already available online, meaning that any winery wishing to enter the self-assessment program may easily do so. But formal implementation and certification takes time to move through the bureaucracy, says Tantalus Vineyards winemaker David Paterson, a member of the group that includes Andrew Peller Vineyards operations manager Karen Gillis, former Tinhorn Creek CEO Sandra Oldfield (now president of Elysian Projects), and Monte Creek winemaker Galen Barnhardt.

Paterson explains that participants with a number of elements already in place enter the program at year zero and work towards 80 per cent compliance over five years. Interest is widespread, including from growers, who are increasingly focused on quality and sustainability.

“The biggest takeaway is constant improvement,” says Paterson, who notes the B.C. program takes a holistic approach that assesses everything from vineyard water use efficiency and winery waste water management to human resources. Few stones are left unturned—including material supplies. Bottles, for instance, are more sustainable when sourced from Seattle than shipped from China, he notes.

Says committee chair Karen Gillis: “Sustainable Winegrowing B.C. is looking forward to launching the certification program. The positive impacts on environmental, financial and social aspects for individual vineyards and wineries and the industry as a whole will contribute immensely to our long-term sustainability.” sustainablewinegrowingbc.ca —Tim Pawsey

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Vineyards and mountain around Constantia. Henrik Holler photo, courtesy of WOSA.

W O R L D

W I N E

Ancient and new I N S O U T H A F R I C A , A N E W G E N E R AT I O N O F W I N E M A K E R S I S R E V I TA L I Z I N G A H I S T O R I C L A N D Daenna Van Mulligen

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ome places speak to your soul; they render you speechless and remain with you long after you have left.

The Cape Winelands of South Africa are that kind of place.

From Cape Town’s Table Mountain and lush neighbouring Constantia, its horn dipping sharply into the south Atlantic towards Antarctica, east to Walker Bay and Cape Agulhas, then northwest to the expanses of Swartland, this slice of the world is breathtaking.

The landscape here is timeworn, etched by immeasurable millennia. It was already ancient by the time the first vines were planted on the Cape over 360 years ago.

What brought them there was the Dutch East India Company.

In 1652, the Cape became a refueling and refreshment station for ships journeying from Europe to Asia.

Those ships also delivered settlers and vines: South Africa’s first wine made its appearance in 1659, from vines planted by the first governor of the Cape, Jan van Riebeek, in 1655.

Twenty years later, wine enthusiastic Simon van der Stel succeeded van Riebeek, and with his expanded viticultural know-how, planted a vineyard on his farm in Constantia in 1679. However, it was when the Huguenot religious refugees arrived from France in the late 1600s that wine production truly advanced.

Throughout the following centuries, the industry saw growth and devastation, but it was not until after the end of apartheid, a system of institutionalised racial segregation from 1948 until the early 1990s, that the industry began to boom and the world slowly took notice.

The Stellenbosch region is widely known (due to its established wine reputation, university campus and quaint touristic appeal), but there is so much more to the Cape Winelands. Neighbouring coastal region districts such as Paarl, Franschhoek Valley and Cape Town, which includes Constantia, lure hordes of South African and international visitors to experience an admirably well-oiled wine tourism machine.

These entrenched districts might be the heart of wine on the Cape, but they are no longer its only draw.

In the past decade, Swartland has gone from a grain-producing region to one revered by a new wave of

“The landscape here is timeworn, etched by immeasurable millennia.

winemakers reaching outside the box of traditional winegrowing areas. Swartlanders launched a revolution that has since spread far and wide, pushing the boundaries of where vines are being planted. French and Portuguese varieties such as Cinsault, Tinta Barocca and Touriga Nacional are being embraced in Swartland, along with more traditional Shiraz and, of course, South Africa’s darling, Chenin Blanc.

While it’s been garnering accolades for cool-climate Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays for more than a decade, Walker Bay district’s Hemel-en-Aarde Valley has been invigorated in recent years. The town of Hermanus, where

Creation Vineyards in South Africa’s Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Photo courtesy of WOSA.

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S O U T H A F R I CA N S I P P E R S Six wines to try without boarding a plane.

Badenhorst Family Wines Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2017 (Swartland, $26) Sophisticated, weighty, complex.

Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region, $25) Concentrated, creamy, lively yet poised.

Boutinot Cinsault Sea & Air Cinsault 2017 (Coastal Region, $15) Juicy and charming red, berries, spice.

W O R L D

W I N E

A vineyard behind the shrubland known as “fynbos.” Photo courtesy of WOSA.

the southern right whales frolic close to shore, anchors Walker Bay, a small Cape South Coast district 120 kilometres east of Cape Town. The area is an absolute must-visit when in South Africa.

Flanking Walker Bay, Elgin to the west and Elim to the southeast are recognized for their suitability for grapes that prefer cooler temperatures, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Elim’s Cape Agulhas is the most southerly tip of the continent and where the two great oceans, the Atlantic and Indian, collide; it is also the newest and most refreshing wine-growing climate on the Cape.

More wine-growing areas spread out across the Western Cape from Cape Town: Oliphants River (home to Citrusdal); Breede River Valley (home to Robertson); and Klein Karoo, among other smaller wards.

While each region has its own charm, and succeeds with different varieties, there is no doubt what South Africa is currently known for: Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz. These make up the majority of what we drink here in British Columbia. And while we’re appreciative of the meager price tag on a significant portion of South Africa’s wine, don’t stop there— even the most premium wines from the Cape offer significant value and should not be overlooked.

Riebeek Cellars Shiraz 2017 (Swartland, $13) Supple, spiced plums, licorice.

Glen Carlou Chardonnay 2016 (Paarl, $24) Creamy, fresh, yellow fruit, toasted nuts.

Nederburg Winemaster’s Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (Western Cape, $13.29) Herbaceous, lime, tart tropical fruit.

World-class red and white wines with significant aging potential come from all its regions. A new generation of winemakers is forging a new path, seeking grapes from pockets of gnarly old vines and making wines with a sense of place, some in a hands-off or natural way. Obscure varieties from less traditional regions are becoming more commonplace, too.

It is a provocative time for South Africa’s wine industry, and one you’ll want to indulge in. Whether you book a flight to explore the Winelands or just pop the top on a great bottle at home, you’ll be drinking in the Cape—its culture, history and truly outstanding wines.

I F YO U G O Cape Town is a 30-plus-hour flight from Vancouver with at least one connection en route. One option: Air Canada flies from Vancouver to Cape Town with a connection through Frankfurt. aircanada.com For information about Wines of South Africa, including tourism links, visit the website at wosa.co.za.

For info on the Winelands, including wine routes, go to visitwinelands.co.za.

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The comforts of Home Block A T C E D A R C R E E K ’ S N E W W I N E R Y R E S T A U R A N T, C H E F N E I L T AY L O R S E R V E S U P T H E K I N D O F F O O D W E ’ R E C R A V I N G

F O O D

F O R

T H O U G H T

Joanne Sasvari

The new Home Block restaurant at CedarCreek Estate Winery combines cool contemporary and rustic charms. Joanne Sasvari photo

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Chef Neil Taylor in the open kitchen at CedarCreek Estate Winery. Darren Hull photo for Home Block

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ine country dining has never looked—or tasted—so good. The new Home Block restaurant at Kelowna’s CedarCreek Estate Winery is a beauty of soaring ceilings, fieldstone walls, century-old reclaimed barn wood and a view that sweeps across Okanagan Lake toward sister winery Mission Hill. It’s both contemporary and rustic, sophisticated and comfortable.

But what’s really exciting here is the food coming out of executive chef Neil Taylor’s open kitchen, a perfect complement to winemaker Taylor Whelan’s site-expressive, low-intervention wines.

It’s quite the transformation for a winery that’s been a crowd-pleasing constant in the valley for more than three decades.

“You see people go past the door and they go, ‘Look, this is pretty different than the old Pavilion with the six burners,’ ” says Taylor. “It’s still comfortable and homey.

It’s not stuffy. No tablecloths. It’s a fun room to be in.”

It’s a pretty big transformation for Taylor, too. He was the chef who opened Vancouver’s Cibo Trattoria, which was named enRoute magazine’s best new restaurant of 2009, then went on to open the popular España on Denman Street. But last year he packed up his family and headed to Kelowna, attracted both by the Okanagan lifestyle and the opportunity at Home Block.

“I love it. I’m not going back,” he says.

He has been wowed by the local ingredients—not that he couldn’t get Okanagan peaches and tomatoes in Vancouver, but here they are dropped off a couple of times a week by growers who’ve become friends. “There’s definitely more of a connection up here to individuals,” he says. “It’s been great for that.”

And he’s also been delighted by the evolution of CedarCreek.

In 2014, Anthony von Mandl bought the winery from its original owners, the Fitzpatrick family, who are now concentrating on sparkling wines at Greata Ranch. Like the other vineyards von Mandl owns in the valley, this one is transitioning to fully organic over the next few years.

Another 100 acres have been added to the original 100-

“

It’s still comfortable and homey. It’s not stuffy.

No tablecloths. It’s a fun room to be in.

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“It’s Mediterranean in feel, but it’s

F O O D

F O R

T H O U G H T

got its heart in the Okanagan.

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LEFT: Wood-fired steelhead trout, with the view across Okanagan Lake, at Home Block restaurant. Joanne Sasvari photo BELOW: Vines rolling down toward Okanagan Lake at Home Block restaurant. Joanne Sasvari photo

acre vineyard. Two years ago, construction started on the new restaurant, tasting room (which opened in late August) and production facility (still under construction).

The team is even planning a farm in a little hollow at the top of the property, adding chickens or pigs to the beehives that are already buzzing up there. “From a chef’s point of view, that’s pretty incredible,” Taylor says.

Besides, he just felt the place matched his style of food.

“My influences were Italian and Spanish. It’s Mediterranean in feel, but it’s got its heart in the Okanagan,” he says. “I felt like this whole site had this Mediterranean feel to it. And my kind of food suited the surroundings.”

That means simple but flavourful dishes with deft technique behind them: a hearty tortiglioni pasta with savoury sausage ragu, for instance; umami-rich risotto simmered with red wine, blue cheese and radicchio; or the grilled meats that come off his “beast” of a handcranked, wood-fired grill.

“My food is not super showy. It’s nice ingredients.

There’s nothing to hide behind with a simple plate of food,” he says. “That’s how CedarCreek is. It’s unpretentious and unfussy, and I think that fits with how I like to cook.”

That goes for the wine, too. Whelan prefers his wines crisp, clean and uncluttered with lots of oak or fancy technique, especially at the Platinum level. That results in food-friendly wines like his Chablis-style Chardonnay, bright yet voluptuous Riesling or savoury Pinot Noir. And, Taylor says, “We’ve not gone the whole route of ‘This food goes with this wine.’ The servers are pretty good with

making suggestions. You’re going to have a nice time either way.”

Best of all, the restaurant is staying open year-round, unlike so many winery restaurants that close when the tourists go home. The property, after all, is just around the corner from several new developments that should provide steady clientele even when the weather’s bad.

Even more diners are sure to discover Home Block now that it has been nominated it for an enRoute Best New Restaurant award. (Winners are announced October 24.)

“That’s something I secretly wanted. Considering we’d only been open 10 weeks, that’s a pretty great start for us,” Taylor says. “Where we are right now, I’m happy with what we’ve achieved. But as we get to know our guests and our producers, we’ll keep trying to push ourselves. I feel it is only going to get bigger and bigger.”

ISSUE 04

T O R T I G L I O N I W I T H S AU S AG E A N D R E D W I N E R AG U A N D S O U R C R E A M Recipe by Neil Taylor, executive chef of Home Block at CedarCreek Estate Winery in Kelowna. Note: Tortiglioni are a type of pasta, similar to rigatoni but larger and with deeper grooves. They take their name from the Latin word torquere, meaning “to twist.”

Pre-heat oven to 325°F (160°C).

In a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat, fry the sausage meat until golden brown and nicely caramelized, making sure to break up any larger pieces (some slightly larger pieces are OK).

Pour the wine into the pan, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to gather any caramelized bits. Reduce the wine by half.

Add the crushed tomatoes and bring to a simmer.

Add the chicken stock and bring back to a simmer Photo courtesy of Home Block

Serves 4 12 links mild Italian sausage, uncased and roughly broken up into pieces ¾ cup (180 mL) CedarCreek Estate Pinot Noir (enjoy the rest of the bottle with the pasta) 1¾ cups (400 mL) San Marzano tomatoes (half of a 28 oz / 796 mL tin), crushed with a good pinch of salt and black pepper 2 cups (500 mL) chicken stock 1 pkg dried tortiglioni or your favourite pasta ¼ cup (60 mL) sour cream ¼ cup (60 mL) chopped Italian parsley 1 Tbsp (15 mL) red wine vinegar Salt and pepper to taste Grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese to serve

Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and put into the oven for 45 minutes to an hour, checking and stirring after about 20 minutes.

For the last 15 minutes of cooking, remove the lid and let the top of the ragu start to caramelize slightly. It’s ready when the liquids have reduced by about three-quarters and the ragu looks thick.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta according to the packet’s instructions.

To serve: Bring the ragu up to the boil and add the sour cream, chopped parsley and red wine vinegar. The ragu should now look glossy, thick and slightly creamy. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. Add the pasta to the ragu, gently bringing the two together in the pan.

Serve on warmed plates. Grate pecorino or parmesan cheese on top, and tuck in!

37

Vancouver Island From the Saanich Peninsula to the Comox Valley, the Island has several pockets of microclimates that are ideal for growing grapes, especially cooler climate varieties such as Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The wineries are mostly smaller, family-owned properties located in seductively beautiful landscapes and surrounded by bountiful farms. The Island also boasts a number of food festivals, which pair especially well with the local vintages.

De Vine Vineyards. Photo courtesy of De Vine Vineyards & Spirits.

Alberni Valley Emerald Coast Vineyards Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Madeline Angevine, Marechal Foch emeraldcoastvineyards.ca

Courtenay/ Comox 40 Knots Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Siegerrebe, Gamay, Zweigelt, Schönberger, Auxerrois 40knotswinery.com

Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Schönberger, Leon Millot beaufortwines.ca

38

Blue Moon Estate Winery

Blue Grouse Estate Winery

Emandare Vineyard and Winery

Riesling, Syrah bluemoonwinery.ca

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Gamay Noir bluegrouse.ca

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe emandarevineyard.com

Coastal Black Estate Winery Fruit wines, honey wines coastalblack.ca

Cherry Point Estate Wines

cowichan valley

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Pinot Blanc, Agria, Zweigelt cherrypointestatewines.com

Alderlea Vineyards Bacchus, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot alderlea.com

Averill Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Marechal Foch averillcreek.ca

Damali Lavender & Winery Riesling, Merlot, Dolce Mora damali.ca

Deol Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch deolestatewinery.com

Divino Estate Winery Chardonnay, Trebbiano, Castel, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio divinowine.ca

ISSUE 04

Enrico Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Chardonnay, Petit Milo, Cabernet Libre enricowinery.com

Glenterra Vineyards Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Bacchus, Siegerrebe, Muscat, Pinot Noir, Cabernet France, Pinot Meunier, Dornfelder, Lemberger glenterravineyards.com

Rocky Creek Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Viognier, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Tempranillo rockycreekwinery.ca

EXPLORE THE SIMILKAMEEN WINE REGION

OUR FOCUS IS LOCAL. Come visit us and shop our extensive selection of B.C. wine.

TASTE OUR TERROIR similkameenwine.com

open daily 10am-11pm • delivery available 1218 west pender, vancouver • 604.685.1212 coalharbourliquorstore.com

39

Unsworth Vineyards

Nanaimo

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignette, Riesling, Merlot, Petit Milo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, sparkling wine unsworthvineyards.com

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier, Siegerrebe, Bacchus chateauwolff.com

Venturi-Schulze Vineyards

Millstone Estate Winery

Chateau Wolff Estates

Church & State Wines (Saanich)

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine venturischulze.com

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe millstonewinery.ca

Zanatta Winery

Parksville

Pinot Noir, Ortega, Pinot Grigio, sparkling wine zanatta.ca

Saanich Peninsula Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec churchandstatewines.com

De Vine Vineyards & Spirits Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Pinot Blanc, Marechal Foch devinevineyards.ca

Mooberry Winery & Little Qualicum Cheeseworks

Deep Cove Winery Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Schönberger, rosé, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir deepcovewinery.ca

Fruit wines mooberrywinery.com

Domaine Rochette Winery Pinot Noir, Ortega, rosé, Marechal Foch, Schönberger domainerochette.com

Rathjen Cellars Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Gamay, rosé rathjencellars.com

Symphony Vineyard Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Marechal Foch symphonyvineyard.com

The Roost Farm Centre & Highland House Farm Winery Siegerrebe, fruit wines roostfarmcentre.com

Gulf Islands The Gulf Islands dot the Strait of Georgia that separates Vancouver Island from the Mainland. Salt Spring, Pender, Saturna, Quadra, Hornby, Denman and Thetis islands boast a laidback lifestyle and an oceanic climate ideal for the increasing number of wineries producing cool-climate wines.

Isla de Lerena Vineyard Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir lerenavineyards.com

Pender Island Sea Star Estate Farm and Vineyards Pinot Noir, Ortega, Sigerrebe, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch seastarvineyards.ca

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Sea Star Estate Farm and Vineyards. Courtesy Sea Star Estate Farm and Vineyards

Quadra Island

Denman Island

Hornby Island

SouthEnd Farm Winery

Corlan Vineyard & Farm

Hornby Island Estate Winery

Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch corlanvineyard.wordpress. com

Fruit wines hornbywine.com

Siegerrebe, Petit Milo, Cabernet France, Marechal Foch, Leon Millot, sparkling wine southend.ca

ISSUE 04

Salt Spring Island Garry Oaks Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, rosé, Zweigelt garryoakswinery.com

Salt Spring Vineyards & Winery Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, fruit wines saltspringvineyards.com

Fraser Valley It comes as something of a surprise to many people to learn that there are 40 wineries right on the doorstep of B.C.’s biggest city—including a handful right in Greater Vancouver itself. Wineries in Surrey, Richmond, New Westminster, Delta, Langley, Aldergrove and Abbotsford produce wine from everything from rice to berries to vitis vinifera. Most are small, family-owned properties and several offer additional attractions such as farm tours or bistros.

Cabernet Franc, Pinot Grigio backyardvineyards.ca

Chaberton Estate Winery Ortega, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Madeline Angevine , Gamay Noir, Reichensteiner, Zweigelt, Madeleine Sylvaner, Schönberger chabertonwinery.com

Glass House Estate Winery Gewürztraminer, Merlot, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, icewine glasshouseestatewinery.com/

Chaberton Estate Winery. Jason Brown photo

Abbotsford Blackwood Lane Vineyards & Winery Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Siegerrebe blackwoodlanewinery.com

Maan Farms Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, fruit wines maanfarms.com

Mt. Lehman Winery Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc mtlehmanwinery.ca

Ripples Winery Fruit wines rippleswinery.com

Seaside Pearl Farmgate Winery Pinot Gris, Pinot Grigio, sparkling wine seasidepearlwinery.ca

Singletree Winery (Abbotsford)

Krause Berry Farms & Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe singletreewinery.com

Fruit wines, sparkling wine, dessert wines krauseberryfarms.com

Chilliwack

Fruit wines thefortwineco.com

Whispering Horse Winery L’Acadie Blanc, Epicure, Seyval Blanc, Pinot Gris, La Crescent, Dornfelder whisperinghorsewinery.com

Delta Angel Estate Winery Fruit wines angelestatewinery.com

Wellbrook Winery Fruit wines wellbrookwinery.com

Langley/ Aldergrove Backyard Vineyards

The Fort Langley Wine Co.

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Langley) Pinot Noir, Chardonnay township7.com

Vista D’oro Farms & Winery

Pitt Meadows Blue Heron Fruit Winery Fruit wines, dessert wines blueheronwinery.ca

Richmond Canada Berries Fruit wines canadablueberries.com

Lulu Island Winery Pinot Gris, Merlot, fruit wines, icewine luluislandwinery.com

Richmond Country Vines Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, rosé countryfarms.ca/ country-vines-winery

Surrey 1st R.O.W. Estate Winery Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé 1row.ca

Vinoscenti Vineyards

Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, Pinot Gris, Syrah, fortified walnut wine vistadoro.com

Ehrenfelser. Kerner, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah vinoscentivineyards.ca

New Westminster

Vancouver

Pacific Breeze Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc pacificbreezewinery.com

Vancouver Urban Winery Pinot Gris, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc vancouverurbanwinery.com

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon,

41

Okanagan When most people think B.C. wine, they think of the Okanagan Valley, which produces 84 per cent of the province’s wine. This is one of the most varied wine regions in the world, stretching from cool-climate Lake Country in the north to the blistering-hot desert around Osoyoos in the south. Everything from ice wine to big, tannic, fruit-driven reds is produced at wineries that range from small family-run boutique vineyards to big global players, many of them featuring fine restaurants, guesthouses and cultural events.

Golden Mile Bench C.C. Jentsch Cellars Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Petit Verdot ccjentschcellars.com

Road 13 Vineyards Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Malbec, Roussanne, Mourvedre, Marsanne, Chenin Blanc, Petit Verdot road13vineyards.com

Rust Wine Co. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, rosé, Pinot Grigio rustwine.com

Tantalus Vineyards. Shawn Talbot photo

Merlot, Chardonnay checkmatewinery.com

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards

Camelot Vineyards

Mirabel Vineyards

Culmina Family Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay tinhorn.com

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio camelotvineyards.ca

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, rosé mirabelvineyards.com

CheckMate Artisanal Winery

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner culmina.ca

Fairview Cellars Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc fairviewcellars.ca

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Schönberger, Auxerrois gehringerwines.ca

Hester Creek Estate Winery Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc hestercreek.com

CedarCreek Estate Winery

Kaleden Kraze Legz Vineyard & Winery Merlot, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc krazelegz.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay, icewine cedarcreek.bc.ca

Frequency Wine & Sound Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Zweigelt frequencywinery.ca

Kelowna Ancient Hill Estate Winery

House of Rose Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, rosé, Baco Noir ancienthillwinery.com

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay houseofrose.ca

Calona Vineyards (Wayne Gretzky Okanagan, Conviction, Peller)

Kitsch Wines

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay andrewpeller.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay kitschwines.ca

Okanagan Villa Estate Winery Sparkling wine okanaganvilla.com

Ricco Bambino Urban Winery Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Viognier, Riesling, sparkling wine, rosé riccobambino.com

Sandhill Wines Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Viognier, Malbec, Pinot Blanc, Barbera sandhillwines.ca

Martin's Lane Winery

Scorched Earth Winery

Pinot Noir, Riesling martinlanewinery.com/

Pinot Noir, Merlot, rosé scorchedearthwinery.ca

Meadow Vista Honey Wines

SpearHead Winery

Fruit wines, honey wines meadowvista.ca

42

Nagging Doubt Winery Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay naggingdoubt.com

ISSUE 04

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay spearheadwinery.com

Sperling Vineyards Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Bacchus, icewine sperlingvineyards.com

St. Hubertus & Oak Bay Estate Winery

Gray Monk Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay graymonk.com

Intrigue Wines

Deep Roots Winery

Lake Breeze Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Gamay, Muscat deeprootswinery.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Blanc, Semillon lakebreeze.ca

Elephant Island Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gamay Noir, icewine st-hubertus.bc.ca

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay intriguewines.ca

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Noir, rosé orourkespeakcellars.com

Forgotten Hill Wine Co.

Naramata bench

Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, icewine, sparkling wine summerhill.bc.ca

Tantalus Vineyards Pinot Noir, Riesling, rosé, Chardonnay, icewine tantalus.ca

The Vibrant Vine Gewürztraminer, rosé, Pinot Grigio, icewine, Muscat thevibrantvine.com

The View Winery Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, rosé, Ehrenfelser, Pinotage theviewwinery.com

Lake Country 50th Parallel Estate Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay 50thparallel.com

Arrowleaf Cellars Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, rosé arrowleafcellars.com

Blind Tiger Vineyards Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah blindtigervineyards.ca

Ex Nihilo Vineyards Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay exnihilovineyards.com

O’Rourke’s Peak Cellars

Bella Wines sparkling wine bellawines.ca

Bench 1775 Winery Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon bench1775.com

Black Widow Winery Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Muscat, Schönberger blackwidowwinery.com

D’Angelo Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Viognier dangelowinery.com

Da Silva Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir, Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Fumé Blanc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Muscat dasilvavineyards.com

Daydreamer Wines Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, rosé, Chardonnay, Shiraz daydreamerwines.ca

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, fruit wines elephantislandwine.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, rosé forgottenhillwineco.com

Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Pinot Noir, rosé fourshadowsvineyard.com

Lang Vineyards Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Marechal Foch langvineyards.ca

Laughing Stock Vineyards Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier laughingstock.ca

Lock & Worth Winery

Foxtrot Vineyards

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon lockandworth.com

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier foxtrotwine.com

Marichel Vineyard and Winery

Hillside Winery & Bistro Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Muscat Ottonel hillsidewinery.ca

Howling Bluff Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc howlingbluff.ca

JoieFarm

Pinot Noir, Syrah marichel.ca

Misconduct Wine Co. Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Malbec, Muscat misconductwineco.com

Mocojo Wines Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Viognier, Malbec mocojowines.com

Monster Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Riesling, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Blanc, Gamay joiefarm.com

Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay, Shiraz monstervineyards.ca

Kettle Valley Winery

Cabernet Sauvignon morainewinery.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Viognier, Zinfandel kettlevalleywinery.com

La Frenz Winery Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc lafrenzwinery.com

Moraine Estate Winery

Nichol Vineyard Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, St. Laurent nicholvineyard.com

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Origin Wines

Three Sisters Winery

Echo Bay Vineyard

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc originwines.ca

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay 3sisterswinery.com

Perseus Winery

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Carmenere, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese echobayvineyard.ca

Viognier, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon tightropewinery.ca

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc perseuswinery.com

Poplar Grove Winery Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, rosé poplargrove.ca

Red Rooster Winery Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon redroosterwinery.com

Roche Wines Schönberger, Zweigelt, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Gewürztraminer rterroir.ca

Ruby Blues Winery Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier rubyblueswinery.ca

Serendipity Winery Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio serendipitywinery.com

Singletree Winery (Naramata) Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe singletreewinery.com

Terravista Vineyards Syrah, Viognier, Roussanne terravistavineyards.com

Therapy Vineyards & Guest House Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc therapyvineyards.com

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Tightrope Winery

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Naramata) Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc township7.com

Upper Bench Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Zweigelt upperbench.ca

Van Westen Vineyards Pinot Gris, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, icewine vanwestenvineyards.com

Liquidity Wines Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Chardonnay, Viognier liquiditywines.com

Meyer Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, Chardonnay mfvwines.com

Montakarn Estate Winery Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec montakarn.ca

Nighthawk Vineyards Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay nighthawkvineyards.com

Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio nobleridge.com

OKANAGAN FALLS

Rigour & Whimsy

BC Wine Studio Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Grüner Veltliner, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec bcwinestudio.ca

Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Gamay Noir, sparkling wine bluemountainwinery.com

Bonamici Cellars Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah bonamicicellars.com

Pinot Blanc, Roussanne, Muscat, Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir rigourandwhimsy.ca

Wild Goose Vineyards & Winery Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot wildgoosewinery.com

OLIVER Bartier Bros. Winery Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Semillon bartierbros.com

Black Hills Estate Winery Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Roussanne blackhillswinery.com

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec burrowingowlwine.ca

Cassini Cellars Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay cassini.ca

Castoro de Oro Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay sylranch.com

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Vidal, Siegfried castorodeoro.com

Stag's Hollow Winery & Vineyard

Church & State Wines (Okanagan)

See Ya Later Ranch

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache, Muscat, Tempranillo, Vidal stagshollowwinery.com

Synchromesh Wines Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Franc synchromeshwines.ca

ISSUE 04

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec churchandstatewines.com

DISCOVER TRIP ADVISOR’S TOP VANCOUVER ISLAND

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#9 in Top 10 Wineries in BC • #16 in Top 25 Wineries in Canada 4 Gold Medals • 1 Silver Medal

EXPERIENCE THE OSOYOOS LIVING DESERT 9140 92ND AVE., OSOYOOS | BORDERTOWNWINERY.COM For sales inquiries, or further information on where to find Bordertown wines, please contact paul@mondialebev.com or 604.789.5896.

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Covert Farms Family Estate Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Roussanne, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot covertfarms.ca

Desert Hills Estate Winery

La Casa Bianca Winery Riesling, Cabernet Franc lacasabianca.ca

Le Vieux Pin Winery

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Gamay deserthills.ca

Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, rosé levieuxpin.ca

Gold Hill Winery

Pinot Noir, Syrah maverickwine.ca

Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec goldhillwinery.com

Here’s the Thing Vineyards Viognier, Roussane, Gamay Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, rosé heresthethingvineyards.com

Hidden Chapel Winery Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec hiddenchapelwinery.com

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards

Maverick Estate Winery

Okanagan Hills Estate Winery Pinot Gris ohwinery.com

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Petit Verdot riverstoneestatewinery.ca

Silver Sage Winery

Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Kerner, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Shiraz olivertwistwinery.com

Phantom Creek Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Gris phantomcreekestates.com

Pipe’Dreams Vineyard and Estate Winery

Intersection Estate Winery

Platinum Bench Estate Winery

Merlot, Kerner, Gamay, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner pipedreamswinery.com

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Marsanne xwine.ca

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Gamay Noir platinumbench.com

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery

LaStella Winery Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio lastella.ca

Moon Curser Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Pinot Blanc silversagewinery.com

Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Tempranillo, Tannat, Bordeaux blend mooncurser.com

Squeezed Wines

Nk'Mip Cellars

Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc squeezedwines.ca

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc nkmipcellars.com

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinotage stoneboatvineyards.com

vinAmité Cellars Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gamay vinamitecellars.com

Oliver Twist Estate Winery

Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec quintaferreira.com

River Stone Estate Winery

Stoneboat Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Malbec, Pinot Blanc, Tempranillo inniskillin.com

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz jacksontriggswinery.com

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Kismet Estate Winery Riesling, Syrah, rosé, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Bordeaux blends kismetestatewinery.com

Winemaker’s CUT Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltiner, Syrah, Pinot Noir, rosé winemakerscut.ca

Osoyoos Adega On 45th Estate Winer y Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec adegaon45.com

Blue Sky Estate Winery Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Shiraz blueskywinery.ca

Bordertown Vineyards

Osoyoos Larose Estate Winery Bordeaux blend osoyooslarose.com

Young & Wyse Collection Pinot Noir, Syrah youngandwysewine.com

Peachland Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards Pinot Noir, Merlot, rosé, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, sparkling wine fitzwine.com

Hainle Vineyards Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Zweigelt hainle.com

Penticton

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grüner Veltliner bordertownwinery.com

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Pinot Blanc kanazawawines.com

Lariana Cellars

Little Engine Wines

Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Carménère larianacellars.com

ISSUE 04

Kanazawa Wines

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc littleenginewines.com

Play Estate Winery Moscato, Viognier, Syrah, red and white blends playwinery.com

TIME Winery Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, rosé, red and white blends timewinery.com

Skaha Bench Blasted Church Vineyards Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Blanc, Lemberger blastedchurch.com

Black Dog Cellars Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay blackdogcellars.ca

Crescent Hill Winery

Summerland 8th Generation Vineyard Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Chardonnay, frizzante 8thgeneration.com

Dirty Laundry Vineyard Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, rosé dirtylaundry.ca

Estate Thurn Winery, Craft Distillery & Vinegar Brewery Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc bodega1117.com

Evolve Cellars Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, sparkling wine evolvecellars.com

Giant Head Estate Winery

Sage Hills Organic Vineyard & Winery

Thornhaven Estates Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot sagehillswine.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Orange Muscat, Pinot Meunier thornhaven.com

Savard Vines Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Grigio savardvines.ca

Saxon Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot saxonwinery.com

Silkscarf Winery Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Riesling-Muscat, ShirazViognier silkw.net

Sleeping Giant Fruit Winery Fruit wines, dessert wines sleepinggiantfruitwinery.com

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Muscat crescenthillwinery.com

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Merlot giantheadwinery.com

Painted Rock Estate Winery

Heaven's Gate Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz sumacridge.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Gamay Noir, Semillon heavensgatewinery.ca

Riesling, Kerner, Muscat Ottonel summergate.ca

Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay paintedrock.ca

Pentâge Winery Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Gamay, Semillon, Tempranillo, Roussanne pentage.com

Lightning Rock Winery Pinot Noir, Viognier, rosé lightningrockwinery.ca

Lunessence Winery & Vineyard

SummerGate Winery

Summerland Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Merlot summerlandestatewinery.com

T.H. Wines

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, dessert wines lunessencewinery.com

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Viognier thwines.com

Okanagan Crush Pad Winery

The Back Door Winery

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, sparkling wine okanagancrushpad.com

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec backdoorwinery.com

West Kelowna Beaumont Family Estate Organic Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, rosé, Gamay Noir, icewine beaumontwinery.com

Ciao Bella Estate Winery Cabernet Franc, Pinot Grigio ciaobellawinery.com

Frind Estate Winery Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier, Pinot Noir, rosé frindwinery.com

Grizzli Winery Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat grizzliwinery.com

Indigenous World Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Ehrenfelser, Muscat indigenousworldwinery.com

Kalala Organic Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zweigelt, Vidal, Auxerrois kalalawines.ca

Little Straw Vineyards Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe, Chenin Blanc littlestraw.bc.ca

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Mission Hill Family Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, icewine missionhillwinery.com

Mt. Boucherie Winery

Niche Wine Company

Quails' Gate Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc nichewinecompany.com

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Grigio, icewine, Chenin Blanc, Marechal Foch quailsgate.com

Off The Grid Organic Winery Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Zweigelt offthegridorganicwinery.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay Noir, Zweigelt, icewine, Zinfandel mtboucheriewinery.com

Volcanic Hills Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Zweigelt volcanichillswinery.com

Rollingdale Winery Pinot Gris, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc rollingdale.ca

The Hatch Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Gamay thehatchwines.com

Similkameen Known both as Canada’s organic capital and its best-kept-secret wine country, the sun-soaked Similkameen produces everything from boldly tannic reds to bright, flinty whites. Surrounded by rugged mountains that trap the heat and funnel mildew-banishing winds through the vineyards, the valley features a variety of soils including stone, gravel and silty loam from glacial rock formations. Although there are relatively few tasting rooms here, there are many vineyards that grow grapes for wineries in other regions.

Liber Farm & Winery Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chardonnay liberfarm.com

Little Farm Winery Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay littlefarmwinery.ca

Orofino Vineyards Corcelettes Estate Winery. Courtesy of Similkameen Independent Wineries Assoc.

Cawston Crowsnest Vineyards Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay crowsnestvineyards.com

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Vidal, Tannat forbiddenfruitwine.com

Eau Vivre Winery & Vineyards

Hugging Tree Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Cabernet Franc eauvivrewinery.ca

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Forbidden Fruit Winery

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Malbec, Petit Verdot huggingtreewinery.com

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Gamay Noir, Shiraz, sparkling wine, Muscat orofinovineyards.com

Rustic Roots Winery Fruit wines, dessert wines rusticrootswinery.com

Seven Stones Winery Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay sevenstones.ca

ISSUE 04

Vanessa Vineyard Estate Winery Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc vanessavineyard.com

Keremeos Clos Du Soleil Winery Cabernet Franc, rosé, Pinot Blanc, Shiraz closdusoleil.ca

Corcelettes Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, rosé corceletteswine.ca

Robin Ridge Winery Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, rosé, Chardonnay, Gamay robinridgewinery.com

St. Laszlo Vineyards Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Merlot stlaszlo.com

Other regions

Some of B.C.’s most exciting wines are being produced in regions that are so new, few people have heard of them.

But given the awards they’re pulling in, these wineries will become well-known soon enough. And who knows where vintners will be planting grapes next?

Waterside Vineyard & Winery Siegerrebe. Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Viognier.

Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, rosé watersidewinery.com

KOOTENAYS Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay bailliegrohman.com

Columbia Gardens Vineyard & Winery

Monte Creek Ranch Winery. Photo courtesy of Wines of British Columbia, WineBC.com

Thompson Valley Harper's Trail Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, rosé, sparkling wine harperstrail.com

Monte Creek Ranch Winery Chardonnay, Marechal Foch, Frontenac Blanc, Frontenac Gris, La Crescent, Marquette, Pinot Noir, Riesling montecreekranch.com

Privato Vineyard & Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, rosé, Chardonnay privato.ca

LilLooet Cliff and Gorge Vineyards Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Marechal Foch, rosé fortberens.ca

Fort Berens Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay fortberens.ca

Shuswap Baccata Ridge Winery Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Gamay Noir, Zweigelt baccataridgewinery.ca

Celista Estate Winery

Sagewood Winery

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Ortega, rosé, Marechal Foch celistawine.com

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc sagewoodwinery.ca

Edge Of The Earth Vineyards

Larch Hills Winery Ortega, Madeline Angevine, Agria larchhillswinery.com

Marionette Winery Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Zweigelt marionettewinery.com

Ovino Winery Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc ovinowinery.com

Recline Ridge Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir, Ortega, Kerner, rosé, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Madeline Angevine , Marechal Foch, Zweigelt, Madeleine Sylvaner reclineridgewinery.com

Sunnybrae Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir, Ortega, Kerner, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Schönberger sunnybraewinery.com

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon cgwinery.com

Heron Ridge Estates Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, fruit wines facebook.com/ HeronRidgeEstatesWinery

Skimmerhorn Winery & Vineyard Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Marechal Foch skimmerhorn.ca

Wynnwood Cellars Pinot Noir, Syrah wynnwoodcellars.com

Prince George Northern Lights Estate Winery Ltd. Fruit wines northernlightswinery.ca

Ortega, Marechal Foch edgeearth.ca

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Biodynamic W H A T Y O U N E E D T O K N O W A B O U T T H I S L I V I N G V I N E YA R D S Y S T E M

W I N E

G E E K

istockphoto.com photo

Barb Wild

W

hen the harvest moon fills the sky on September 24, moon children everywhere will be laughing, crying, or both.

While Austrian intellectual Rudolf Steiner wasn’t ruled by the moon, he believed that celestial energy affects plants and animals. When asked in 1924 to help farmers cultivate crops without chemicals, he suggested a regime to maximize the living energy of a farm, focusing on soil health. This was the birth of biodynamic farming. Today, biodynamic practices are flourishing in old and new world vineyards.

But how do you recognize a biodynamic wine?

In the vineyard, you may see a horse pulling a plow and you’ll definitely notice the attention on the soil, the livestock and the ecosystem, not just vine health. In the winery, you’ll hear about ambient yeast, wild ferments, extended lees contact, no fining or filtering and minimum additions of sulphites.

In the bottle, look for the biodynamic certification label: either Demeter (the original) or Biodyvin (a newer Euro-driven body). Demeter certification, named for the Greek goddess of the harvest, is a global brand in 50 countries. Generally, organic certification is required before a winery can begin the rigorous four-year process of inspections and audits to become bio-certified.

Only one per cent of all wine is certified biodynamic.

Internationally, that includes Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

in Alsace; Champagne Fleury; Domaine Tissot in Jura; Domaine de Marcoux from the Rhône Valley; Felton Road in New Zealand; and Sonoma’s Benziger Family Winery.

In Canada, there are three Demeter-certified biodynamic wineries. Southbrook Vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake, led by the Okanagan Valley’s Ann Sperling, was the first and has been certified biodynamic since 2008, Tawse Winery on the Niagara Escarpment has been certified since 2009 and Kelowna’s Summerhill Pyramid Winery since 2012. As Summerhill general manager Ezra Cipes says, “Here, the idea is to be pure, authentic and unique.”

Several other B.C. wineries are working toward biodynamic certification, including Ann Sperling’s organic Sperling Vineyards in East Kelowna and, in the Similkameen, Clos du Soleil and Corcelettes Estate Winery.

B I O DY N A M I C I N T H E G L A S S Biodynamic wines are often considered “alive” in the glass; here are five to try that are either certified or being made according to biodynamic practices.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery Pinot Noir 2018, Demeter Certified (Kelowna, $3): Muddled cherries, wet Kelowna rocks, spice, earth.

Clos du Soleil Cabernet Franc Winemaker Series Estate Vineyard 2016 (Similkameen, $44): Fresh red cherry, red plum, black currant, green herbs.

Sperling Vineyards Old Vines Riesling 2014 (East Kelowna, $35): Minerality, petrol, bruised apples, lime zest.

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Muscat 2015, Biodyvin Certified (Alsace, $39): Pink grapefruit, oranges, stone fruit, passionfruit.

Champagne Fleury Blanc de Noirs NV, Demeter Certified (Champagne, $80): Black cherry brioche, wild strawberry cream, mushroom, citrus zest.

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ISSUE 04

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