Balkan Club by Valerie Palacios

July 7, 2011 Balkan Ways Volume 1, Issue 4

Balkan Ways

In this issue:

Club News

History: The Illyrian Connection

Guest Speaker Bio: Professor Edi Shukriu

Illyria and Ulpiana: History and Background

2, 4-5

Food: Cevapi, a Bosnian National Dish

Culture: The Croatian Cravat

Upcoming calendar:  July 8: Professor Edi Shukriu, University of Pristina Presentation on Ulpiana (ancient Roman) archeology in Kosovo  July 22: Dinner meeting in Ferizaj  August: Dokufest in Prizren

Notes of interest: Club Leadership selected President: SGT Greg Sell Vice-President / Newsletter Coordinator: SFC Don Eggert Secretary / Assistant Newsletter Coordinator: SSG Elizabeth Deihl Trip/Travel Coordinator: 2LT Abbas Farooqi Program Coordinator: Ms. Ganimete Pashoja Myftiu

Club News I would like to invite you to the Balkan Club if you have not yet made an appearance at one of meetings, and thank you for participating if you have already attended. Our organization is becoming more enduring and stable, as we have selected a number of KFOR Soldiers to fill leadership positions: SFC Don Eggert as Vice President, SSG Elizabeth Deihl as Secretary, 2LT Abbas Farooqi as Transportation and LNAC Coordinator, and Ganimete Pashoja-Myftiu as our Cultural and Language Coordinator. In recent meetings, we have progressed through episode two of the six-part BBC documentary “The Death of Yugoslavia”, which chronicles the breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s as Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro, and BosniaHerzegovina gained their inde-

pendence. Be prepared to receive information overload when viewing one of these episodes! In the future, we plan to complete this series as well as invite more guest speakers, receive member presentations, and conduct cultural excursions. Please check with SSG Deihl for open dates to schedule your presentations. Many of our members participated in the Danish Contingent march at Camp Novo Selo two weeks ago, and took advantage of the opportunity to take photographs of Kosovo‟s beautiful countryside Please consider presenting your photos at one of our meetings. SSG Gregory Sell, President

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Balkan Ways

History: The Illyrian Connection to Albania Mystery shrouds the exact origin of today's Albanians. Most historians of the Balkans believe the Albanian people are in large part descendants of the ancient Illyrians, who, like other Balkan peoples, were subdivided into tribes and clans. The name Albania is derived from an Illyrian tribe called the Arber, or Arbereshë, and later Albanoi that lived near Durrës. Illyrians were Indo-European tribesmen who appeared in the western part of the Balkan Peninsula about 1000 B.C., a period coinciding with the end of the Bronze Age and beginning of the Iron Age. They inhabited much of the area for at least the next millennium. Archaeologists associate the Illyrians with the Iron Age Hallstatt culture, a people noted for domestication of horses and production of iron and bronze swords with winged-shaped handles. The Illyrians occupied lands extending from the Danube, Sava, and Morava rivers to the Adriatic Sea and Sar Mountains. At various times, groups of Illyrians migrated by land and sea into Italy. Illyrians engaged in commerce and warfare with their neighbors. Ancient Macedonians probably had some Illyrian roots, but their ruling class adopted Greek cultural characteristics. The Illyrians also mingled with the Thracians, another ancient people with adjoining lands on the east. In the south and along the Adriatic Sea coast, the Illyrians were influenced by Greeks who founded trading colonies there. Present-day Durrës evolved from a Greek colony known as Epidamnos, founded at the end of the seventh century BC. Another famous Greek colony, Apollonia, rose between Durrës and the port of Vlorë. Illyrians produced and traded cattle, horses, agricultural goods, and wares fashioned from locally mined copper and iron. Feuds and warfare were constant facts of life for Illyrian tribes, and Illyrian pirates plagued shipping on the Adriatic Sea. Councils of elders chose chieftains who headed each of the numerous Illyrian tribes. From time to time, local chieftains extended their rule over other tribes and

formed short-lived kingdoms. During the fifth century B.C., a well-developed Illyrian center existed north to the upper Sava River valley in Slovenia. Illyrian friezes discovered near present-day Ljubljana depict ritual sacrifices, feasts, battles, sporting events, and other activities. The Illyrian kingdom of Bardhyllus became a formidable power in the fourth century BC. In 358 BC, however, Macedonia's Philip II, father of Alexander the Great, defeated the Illyrians and assumed control of their territory as far as Lake

An example of Illyrian bronze work. Ohrid. Alexander himself defeated Illyrian chieftain Clitus in 335 BC, and Illyrian tribal leaders and soldiers accompanied Alexander on his conquest of Persia. After Alexander's death in 323 BC, independent Illyrian kingdoms again arose. In 312 BC, King Glaucius expelled the Greeks from Durrës. By the end of the third century, an Illyrian kingdom based near today‟s Albanian city of Shkodër controlled parts of northern Albania, Montenegro, and Herzegovina. Under Queen Teuta, Illyrians attacked Roman merchant vessels plying the Adriatic Sea, gaving Rome an excuse to invade the Balkans. In the Illyrian Wars of 229 and 219 BC, Rome overran Illyrian settlements on the Neretva River. Romans made new gains in 168 BC, and captured Illyria's King Gentius at Shkodër, which they called Scodra, and brought him to Rome in 165 BC. A century later, Julius Caesar fought his decisive battle with rival Pompey near Durrës (Dyrrachium). Rome finally subjugated recalcitrant Illyrian tribes in the western Balkans during the reign of Emperor Tiberius in AD 9. The Romans divided the lands that make up present-day Albania among the

provinces of Macedonia, Dalmatia, and Epirus. For about four centuries, Roman rule brought Illyrian-populated lands economic and cultural advancement and ended most of the clashes among local tribes. Illyrian mountain clansmen retained local authority but pledged allegiance to the emperor and acknowledged the authority of his envoys. During a yearly holiday honoring the Caesars, Illyrian mountaineers swore loyalty to the emperor and reaffirmed their political rights. A form of this tradition, known as the kuvend, has survived to the present day in northern Albania. Romans established numerous military camps and colonies, completely Latinizing coastal cities, and oversaw the construction of aqueducts and roads, including the Via Egnatia, a famous military highway and trade route that led from Durrës through the Shkumbin River valley to Macedonia and Byzantium. Their main exports were wine, cheese, oil, and fish from Lake Scutari and Lake Ohrid. Imports included tools, metal ware, luxury goods, and other manufactured articles. Apollonia became a cultural center, and Julius Caesar sent his nephew, later the Emperor Augustus, to study there. Illyrians distinguished themselves as warriors in the Roman legions and made up a significant portion of the Praetorian Guard. Several Roman emperors were of Illyrian origin, including Diocletian (284305 AD), who saved the empire from disintegration by introducing institutional reforms, and Constantine the Great (324-37 AD), who accepted Christianity and transferred the empire's capital from Rome to Byzantium, which he called Constantinople. Emperor Justinian (527-65 AD), who codified Roman law; built the most famous Byzantine church, the Hagia Sofia; and extended the empire's control over lost territories, was probably also an Illyrian. From http://ancienthistory.about.com Provided by SSG Greg Sell

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Guest Speaker Bio: Professor Edi Shukriu, University of Pristina Ms. Edi Shukriu is a professor, archaeologist, poet, playwright, and politician who was born in Prizren, Kosovo in 1950. Professor Shukriu earned her master‟s in archaeology at the University of Belgrade and her doctorate in archaeology at the University of Pristina. She worked initially for the Kosovo Museum and now teaches archaeology and ancient history at the University of Pristina. She heads archeological excavations at several sites in Kosovo: Ulpiana, Tumuleses in Porodime, Tumulus in Ulpiana, Vermica, Gjonaj, and the foothills of Vlashnja.

founded the region's first women's democratic organization, the Women's Forum, in 1990. She was President of the LDK Women's Forum from 1995-2000, and a member of the Presidency of the LDK Party from 1995-2001. In 2004, she co-founded a new political party, the Democratic Alternative of Kosova, and currently serves as its Vice-President.

Dr. Shukriu‟s academic background includes appointment as Visiting Scholar at Vienna University in 2001, and Visiting Scholar at Harvard University in 2002. She participated in the International Writing Program of the University of Iowa in 2005.

again from 2000 to 2004. She chaired the parliamentary commission for culture, youth and sports from 2002 to 2004, and served as Co-Head of the United Nations Interim Administration in Kosovo (UNMIK) Department of Culture from 2000 to 2001.

Active in the political arena, Dr. Shukriu was a member of Parliament from 1992 to 1998 and

She joined the Democratic League of Kosova (LDK) in 1989, and

Dr. Shukriu‟s literary work includes six books of poetry and three plays as well as several scientific publications: Ancient Kosovo (2004), Distinguished Albanian Women (2003), and Pre-Urban Dardania: Archeological Studies in Kosovo (1996). Dr. Shukriu speaks five languages: Albanian, English, Serbian, Croatian, and Turkish. From Robert Elsie, Historical Dictionary of Kosovo and Curriculum Vitae, Ms. Edi Shukriu Photo from http://othervoicespoetry.org/ Provided by Ganimete Pashoja-Myftiu

Archaeology in Kosovo: In Brief There have been traces of organized settlements in Kosovo at least since the Neolithic age (5000-2500 BC). Of noted interest are the terra cotta figurines such as the so-called “Goddess on a Throne” from Tjerrtorja near Pristina, dating from about 3500 BC, that have come to symbolize Kosovo. Dardanian and Illyrian tribes inhabited the Kosovo region in pre-classical and classical times. Roman settlements such as Ulpiana near Gracanica have left noticeable remains. The field of Kosovo archaeology can be dated from the 19th century with the works of Sir Arthur Evans, who wrote Antiquarian Researches in Illyricum (London 1885-1886). The first excavations in Kosovo were carried out by Austro-Hungarian troops at Neprebisht near Suhareka during World War I. The Catholic priest Shtjefen Gjecovi also carried out excavations in the Has area near

Prizren until his murder in 1929. Archeological research escalated after World War II with the founding of the Kosovo Museum in 1949, the Kosovo Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments, and the Archeological Museum of Prizren. Initial excavations were carried out in Novoberda in 1951 and Ulpiana in 1953. Other archeological excavations were undertaken in Tjerrtorja (1955); Vallac (1955), Zhitkoc (1955) and Fafos (1956) near Mitrovica; Glladnica (1956) near Gracanica; Samadrexha; and Reshtan near Suhareka. The Roman settlement know as Municipium DD near Socanica in the Iber valley was excavated by Emil Cerskov in 1956-1965, as were tumuli in various locations. The most productive period of archeology in Kosovo was the

decade from 1970 to 1980, concentrating on the Bronze Age and Dardanian culture. Numerous scholars have made noted contributions to archeological research and excavations in Kosovo. Among the most recent contributors are Kemajl Luci, Haxhi Mehmeti, Fatmir Peja, Luan Perxhita, Gezm Hoxha, Adem Bungari, Tomor Kastrati, and Edi Shukriu. A new Archeological Institute of Kosovo, active in the field of monumemt protection, was founded in 2003. A particular loss to archeology in Kosovo have been the exhibits of the Kosovo Museum in Pristina that were taken off to Belgrade in their virtual entirety in 1998-1999, ostensibly for an exhibition there, and were never returned. Excerpted from Robert Elsie, Historical Dictionary of Kosovo Provided by Ganimete Pashoja-Myftiu

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Balkan Ways

Ulpiana: Observations and Background After arriving in Kosovo, I heard of an ancient site located near Pristina and took the opportunity last October to locate and visit the on-going work outside Gracanica, approximately one mile south of the monastery.

The pictures below provide an excellent view of what to expect after arriving. Security off-season is not in evidence; I recommend visiting during the day and avoiding ground under cultivation.

The best way to proceed is to park near the center of Gracanica and follow the path south along the stream approximately one mile. Driving a vehicle, from the road to Laplje Selo and Lipjan, involves a worn and rutted tractor path past cornfields and two new orchards. Getting stuck in the mud would involve recovery assistance on private farm land.

Ulpiana was an ancient Roman city located in what is today Kosovo. It was also named Justiniana Secunda. Ulpiana is situated in the municipality of Lipljan. In 1990, Ulpiana was added to the Archaeological Sites of Exceptional Importance list, protected by Republic of Serbia.

The necropolis is located closest to the stream; main gate foundation, aqueduct, baths and basilica are a short hike east toward the road. One will come upon two 40-foot containers locked with tools, etc., for those seasonally working the project sponsored by the University of Pristina and archeology departments from Germany and the Netherlands.

By Michael Cox

Under the Roman Empire, Ulpiana flourished and it is mentioned as a glorious city "urb splendidissma". Ulpiana suffered numerous attacks from barbarian tribes (Huns, Goths), and was destroyed in 479 when the Goth King Theodemir sent his son Theodoric the Great with 3,000 soldiers to destroy the city. A final blow came when an earthquake struck in 518 AD and destroyed what remained. Photos of Ulpiana excavation provided by Michael Cox

In the 6th century during the rule of Justinian the city was rebuilt. Procopius writes that Justinian “rebuilt all the falling walls of the city (Ulpiana) and after he decorated them with a splendour, he gave them the beauty of the present day and called them „Justiniana Secunda‟.” Remains of this city - destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout history, with basilica, mosaics, and tombstones - have been unearthed west of Gračanica. In the early Christian period, Ulpiana was an important episcopal center. A number of articles were discovered here such as coins, ceramics, weapons, jewellery, and similar. The remains of the city, only partially excavated, are situated approximately 1.3 km (0.81 mi) west of Gračanica, immediately to the north of the road connecting Gračanica with Laplje Selo. From Wikipedia

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Above: An Illyrian helmet Below: Illyrian bronze work

Ancient Illyria in perspective. For more information and discussion, see the European Heritage Library online: euroheritage.net/illyrianalbanians.shtml

Food: Ćevapi, a Bosnian National Dish Ćevapi or Ćevapčići is a Balkan dish of grilled minced meat, a legacy of the Ottoman Empire found in the countries of South Eastern Europe. They are considered a national dish in BosniaHerzegovina and Serbia. They are also common in Croatia, Montenegro, and Slovenia, as well as in Macedonia, Bulgaria, Romania, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and on the border between Italy and Slovenia in the provinces of Trieste, Udine and Gorizia. They are typically served on a plate or in a flatbread (lepinja or somun). A serving usually consists of 5-10 pieces with minced red pepper, salt and chopped onions. They are often served with kajmak, ajvar, sour cream, cottage cheese, and so on. Ćevapčići arrived in the Balkans during the Ottoman Turk expansion

variations in seasoning and meat content. Some varieties contain lamb or other non-pork meats. Banjalučki ćevap differs not only in taste, but also by being grilled and served in connected tuples (usually of four).

into southeastern Europe and developed through the middle ages into a regional specialty similar to the kebab. They became especially popular among Muslims due to their exclusion of pork. In Bosnia, it is customary to consider ćevapi as a traditionally Bosnian dish that spread to other parts of former Yugoslavia from Bosnia. To support this theory there are a variety of Bosnian versions of the same dish. For example, Travnički ćevapi from the traditional cattle herding area of Travnik, and Sarajevski ćevap from the Sarajevo area look similar but taste slightly different due to

The dish is kept simple, and traditionally served in somun with onions and/or kajmak and yoghurt or kefir as appetizer, whereas outside Bosnia, it's common for ćevapi to be served with variety of vegetables and seasonings. In Austria, the Czech Republic and Slovakia, čevapčiči is generally served with mustard mixed with finely chopped raw onions and potatoes or French fries. We are into the grilling season, folks. Why not put the burgers and dogs aside for a minute and try something different, something delicious and Balkan? Something like Ćevapi! From www.kosovoguide.com by 2LT Abbas Farooqi

The Balkan Club, KFOR 14, Camp Bondsteel, Kosovo

WHAT?

President: SSG Greg Sell x4136, greg.sell@eur.army.mil Vice President / Newsletter Coordinator: SFC Don Eggert x6629, 049 774 713 don.eggert@eur.army.mil

Secretary / Asst. Newsletter Coordinator SGT Elizabeth Diehl x4736 elizabeth.deihl@eur.army.mil

Program Coordinator: Mrs. Ganimete Pashoja-Myftiu x6535, ganimete.pashoja@eur.army.mil Travel Coordinator: 2LT Abbas Farooqi x6535, abbas.farooqi@eur.army.mil

The Balkan Club is a voluntary learning community which meets once a week (Friday evenings, 1830 hours) to explore the history, geography, culture, politics and economy of the Balkan region. Activities include but are not limited to lectures, presentations, film viewing, and cultural excursions.

WHO?

Membership is open to all KFOR soldiers and civilian employees of Camp Bondsteel.

WHY?

The Balkan Club is a place to cultivate an understanding of and appreciation for the Balkan region and to stimulate further, selfdirected study.

Culture: The Croatian Cravat Present-day office workers have 17th century Croatians to thank for that ubiquitous piece of business attire – the necktie. The cravat originated during the 1630s, and is a corruption of the French pronunciation of Croat. Called “hivat” in Croatian, cravats started out as around-the-collar scarves worn by Croatian military. Enlisted wore coarse clothes whereas officers wore fine linens or silks.

introduced the new fashion, describes as follows: "A cravatte is another kind of adornment for the neck being nothing else but a long towel put about the Collar, and so tyed before with a Bow Knott; this is the original of all such Wearings; but now by the Art and Inventions of the seamsters, there is so many new ways of making them, that it would be a task to name, much more to describe them".

King Louis XIII and Cardinal Richelieu of France organized a regiment of Croatian mercenaries as protection against Duc de Guise and the Queen Mother, Marie de Medici. The distinctive scarves of Croatian soldiers, worn knotted around the neck, soon aroused considerable fashion interest in Paris. A military style cravat had broad, laced edges, while a gentleman's cravat could be of fine lace.

Only much later, after the Battle of Waterloo (1815), would this neckwear began to be called the “tie”.

King Charles II of England became familiar with the cravat during his exile in France. Upon his return to the English throne in 1630, Charles II

From Wikipedia Submitted by COL Fernando Villa