February 2010: The Secret Issue

hello.

Welcome to VNTD Magazine! We are a free monthly magazine celebrating art, style, fashion, film and culture. We aim to combine the breadth of knowledge, interest and experience bottled up inside some of the world’s individuals to create a publication that promises aesthetic impact. The recent proliferation of social networking and online communication suggests an eventual transition of published material from the bookshelf onto the web. The explosion of blogs as an independent, unmoderated medium brings with it certain dangers but also exciting prospects. For this reason VNTD Magazine is a blog-based publication. We want the magazine to both influence and be influenced. We welcome ideas, suggestions, contributions and comments and hope our magazine will prosper and inspire.

And The Secret Issue? Well it may seem slightly ironic that VNTD’s first exposure is called a secret, but when discussing a suitable name for the first issue, we realised ‘The Secret Issue’ was perfect. We asked some friends to anonymously write down a secret of theirs and the results were quite intriguing. Some casually scrawled an amusing anecdote or story, others told of harmless desires that are socially frowned upon, but one revealed an inner confession that briefly exposed his fragility. A secret is defined in the Oxford English Dictionary as something that is ‘not known or seen or not meant to be known or seen’ but we now felt it held even more reverence than that. They are those small pieces of personal information, those tiny bits of dormant knowledge that we harbour for ourselves and they are what distinguish us from each other.

Our secrets are defined by our experiences and in-

tentions. They make us reflect or strive forward or give us comfort when it is most needed. Secrets define our individuality.

And that is what VNTD is. Although no longer a secret in itself, our publication still holds the characteristics of a secret: it is our pent up thoughts, our private ideas, a result of individual experiences and a collaboration of minds. VNTD is our little secret.

VNTD attempts to blur the boundry between a tangible magazine and cyber-reading and we will release a new issue each month.

issue 01 february 2010 4 a little slice of heaven a collection of photographs of nottingham’s skyline

10 fragrances: the secret to success? adam edmond on his three favourite perfumes

14 fashion’s unsung heroes a look at four lesser known designers

20 “don’t you ever go to the movies?” a story in film noir

35 behind the scenes

an insight into how the shoot was made

46 the informant!

matt damon’s latest political drama

48 pink and lilly

an interview with caroline jackson, owner of a nottingham based fashion boutique

a little slice of heaven The multistory car park: the 1960s’ gift to the modern day city. However these concrete bodies are too often easily dismissed as public enemies. To some they are a meeting point, others a place to think and dream. From the rooftop, one can come to admire the surrounding metropolis and to us, the car park is a secret love affair.

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fragrances: the secret to success?

by Adam Edmond Today, it is almost unheard of to encounter a man or woman who does not subscribe to a particular fragrance. After prolonged working hours and stressful high-end jobs, more and more people rely on artificial scents to masquerade their body odour. The influx of pheromone infused fragrances has created a modern urban myth that fragrances can be chemically engineered to control the decisions of the opposite sex. Although this belief has a level of fantasy attached to it, can a particular perfume be the key to another’s heart? Although there is strong evidence to suggest natural odour has a key role in sexual attraction, there is little to support the idea that fragrances are a catalyst in this matter.

It is strange that we select a certain brand of fragrance based on our own liking as opposed to our partners as odour sensitivity differs greatly between men and women. In short, we use manufactured fragrances to create a ‘pleasant’ aura rather than as a direct stimulus for attraction. However, frequent use of cologne has been proven to heighten the user’s mood. A pleasant smell and a positive personality do wonders for self confidence when embarking on a bit of flirting. Despite not having an explicit affect, fragrances may well be the secret to his or her heart. Below are three male and female fragrances we believe hold this power:

Dolce&Gabbana

Dior

YSL

Dolce and Gabbana Light Blue Light Blue, created in 2001 by Olivier Cresp, is a refreshing fragrance designed for women yet, preferred by many men to the pour Homme interpretation that came later. The fragrance has a feeling of brightness lending it a sense of youthful fun. It is easy to wear and is very frequently complimented.

The opening notes are sharp, almost tart, and subtly masculine, quickly giving way to more complex apple and floral notes. These are not overly sweet and when worn on men take on an herbier characteristic.

Light Blue can seem very strong at first though this strength fades leaving a shadow of scent that will remain with you all day.

Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Eau Sauvage is one of the classic men’s fragrances, created in 1966 by perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, designed to simplify his approach to perfumery. Eau Sauvage is a characteristically masculine fragrance, though just as Roudnitska predicted women have been wearing it since its release.

Citrusy notes dominate at first giving a fresh simple feel, revealing elegant woody and earthy undertones, which will be with you for hours. This is a very sexy and bold fragrance that is equally at home worn day or night.

Eau Sauvage may have been described as conservative when compared with more modern fragrances, by some. However, this was one of the ‘movers and shakers’ of the men’s fragrance industry during the 1960s and still holds its place as one of the best fragrances available for either men or women.

Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Created in 2006 as a collaboration between Anne Flipo, Pierre Wargnye and Dominique Ropion, L’Homme has recently become a very popular scent, the sixth most popular in France. L’Homme is a masculine scent with an unashamedly feminine side to it and may be easily borrowed by women.

The first strong floral notes become more subtle with time allowing a warm nuttiness to develop, whilst a clean melon scent is left to linger. This combination gives the fragrance a warm, relaxed romantic feeling.

While this may not sound traditionally masculine, the complexity and warmness found in this give a modern take on the male fragrance.

fashion’s unsung heroes GEMMA SLACK

BRUNO PIETERS

HAIDER ACKERMAN

CLAUDIA SKODA

Mainstream fashion rules the show. Names such as Prada, Gucci and Louis Vuitton represent the fashion industry that is aired to the masses, mention any-one of these names in the street and chances are you would get a reaction. Mention the likes of Bruno Pieters, Claudia Skoda, Haider Ackerman or Gemma Slack and most people wouldn’t have a clue who or what you were talking about. They are secret set of designers, an undercurrent if you like, whose names do not frequent the pages of vogue yet their work stands for quality, workmanship and innovative conception to equal any of their glitzy mainstream cousins. They represent the new generation of fashion designers armed to face the tough times we find ourselves in.

GEMMA SLACK Gemma Slack’s story is perhaps as intriguing as her designs. Born in Sheffield she originally set out to study fine art at Chelsea College of Art but her talent for creating garments became clear within weeks of her taking the course. Her work has a dark gothic resonance, her most recent collection features her first original print, a work that depicts what appears to be smouldering clouds of smoke. Her influences include armour making techniques, pre-industrial Japan and religious crusades to name a few.

The results? An outstanding collection of long-hair biker jackets, vertebrae scale leather dresses, engraved gorgets and epaulet accessories. When all is considered it appears Slack is set to become yet another big name in fashion from the U.K.

BRUNO PIETERS The multi-award winning Bruno Pieters is a Belgian Designer who can claim to be the first Belgian to show a collection during Paris Couture week, the collection in question featured a series of suits inspired by Dior’s new-look. Pieters, who graduated from the royal academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1999, sees himself fundamentally as a technician and his work as more of a craft than an art-form. His garments combine draped skirts and dresses, geometrically structured jackets and complex paneling. His work plays with shape and proportion and strongly adheres to a simple yet effective colour scheme. His most recent collection was made almost entirely from nude pastel tones and it is this simplicity of design that makes Pieters work so appealing.

For spring summer 2010 Pieters, armed with an impressive knowledge of both draping and tailoring, pulled off a show that although simple, really boasted an incredible talent for design and construction. There was a lot of sheer fabric, nude tones and splashes of black. The fabric was wrapped tightly around the body creating a very body-con silhouette whilst the loose fitting hoods provided a contrast to this.

HAIDER ACKERMAN Haider Ackerman’s designs are typically Belgian in the sense that despite draping, ruching and the use of feather-light fabrics his collections come across very austere. Like Pieters his colour palette is stark and Ackerman’s colour choices err on the side of simplicity. His garments often wrap around the form, twisting and knotting, draping over the contours of the body. His tailoring is razor-sharp with jackets in clean crisp colours that contrast with his typically loose-fitting dresses. Ackerman’s creations have of recent years been worn by a strong celebrity clientele, Tilda Swinton being the most prominent. Although relatively unknown right now it’s safe to say that Haider Ackerman’s future is bright.

CLAUDIA SKODA Unlike Ackerman, Slack and Pieters, Claudia Skoda is not technically an emerging new talent. She has been an established designer for years now and even partied with the likes of Iggy Pop and David Bowie back in the 1970s and remains one of Germany’s best kept secrets. Her flagship store is designed by Ward Marrill Hooper and is situated on the trendy Alter-Schonhauser Strasse in Berlin. The store is a work of art in itself but her own creations are a great example of innovative knitwear design, a concept recently brought into the limelight by the likes of Mark Fast. Skoda’s work now has contemporary relevance. She plays with texture, structure, form and intricate patterns to create garments that are challenging and aesthetically pleasing. Her collections feature both classic pieces created from unconventional fabrics and more avant-garde items. Skoda was one of the first designers to turn knitwear into high fashion and her style is instantly recognisable across the city of Berlin and beyond.

“DON’T YOU EVER GO TO THE MOVIES?” a story in film noir model: Ciara Strang

PREVIOUS SPREAD: FUR COAT, DAISY. JEWELLERY, VINTAGE. LINGERIE, SHOES AND SHADES, CIARA.

THIS SPREAD: AS BEFORE

SWEATER, BRITISH HEART FOUNDATION. NECKLACE, ANNA. BELT AND RING, BEN. SKIRT, VINTAGE. SHOES, CIARA.

CIARA WEARS: CHUNKY KNIT, BEN. DRESS, KIRSTY. JEWELLERY, VINTAGE. BELT, BEN. SHOES, CIARA. MAN WEARS OWN CLOTHES.

FUR COAT AS BEFORE, DRESS, ANNA. SHOES, CIARA. LUGGAGE, JOE. MAN WEARS COAT, INSPIRE AND OWN CLOTHES

SCARF, VINTAGE CARTIER. NECKLACE, ANNA. BELT AND RING, BEN. SKIRT, VINTAGE. POLO, VINTAGE POLO RALPH LAUREN. SHOES, CIARA. MAN WEARS CHINOS, VINTAGE. COAT, INSPIRE.

behind the

scenes

the info

The political comedy, The Informant! was released this month to critical acclaim. Matt Dam with lies and secrets. However, are the innumerable subtleties and protracted scenes of diag

The Informant! is director Steven Soderbergh’s latest political drama starring Matt Damon as protagonist Mark Whitacre. The film is based on the popular novel similarly named, ‘The Informant’ written by American writer and journalist Kurt Eichenwald, and reveals the subtle development of one man’s sudden relationship with the FBI and the resulting effects on his personality. However, do not expect Bourne 4. The film broadly revolves around the implications of lying and this is conveyed using lengthy scenes of dialogue. The convoluted

plot line may not appeal to those expecting Hollywood entertainment, however it reveals an extraordinary true story involving politics, lies and deceit.

Mark Whitacre enters as a respected executive at American corn manufacturing giant ADM. Following a bizarre turn of events, he admits to the FBI his company’s involvement in international price-fixing between rival corporations. Although initially reluctant, Whitacre agrees to help the FBI gather evidence against his own company. However, it

soon becomes apparent that his covert operations and involvement with the FBI appeals to his fantastical personality as he becomes deeply immersed in his new role as a ‘spy’, “Mark Whitacre, secret-agent 0014… because I’m twice as smart as 007!”. This career change would surely appeal to the teenage boy in any modern man, and Whitacre is no exception. (The character is also shown watching 1993 movie, The Firm, where our hero Tom Cruise confronts the criminal actions of his own legal office.) What is key within the film is its sense of ambigu-

ormant!

mon is at his best as the duplicitious Mark Whittacre and crafts a confusing tale interwoven glogue a sign of an intellectual masterpirece or are they the cause of the film’s own demise?

ity. When is Mark telling the truth? How much does Mark really know? Naïve and misled or calculated and meticulous?

Despite being initially comical, the delusional trait that the protagonist develops brings with it a sense of tragedy. The film therefore explores much darker themes than are initially advertised as Whitacre’s bizarre personality has dramatic repercussions on his family and himself.

Steve Soderbergh’s directorial record is certainly commendable, with international successes such as Sex, Lies and Videotape,

Traffic, the remake of Ocean’s Eleven, and both Che films.

His work on Ocean’s Eleven introduced him to Matt Damon, who shone through despite a star-studded cast. Soderbergh’s works have always had underlying themes of deceit, betrayal and truth and The Informant! is not dissimilar. The apparent differences between the film and the novel are of further interest. Kurt Eichenwald’s book recounts a similar tale but without elements of comedy and the added exclamation mark in the title of the movie brings with it a sense of exploitation. Eichen-

wald’s novel is sympathetic to Whitacre’s baffling personality, however in parts, the film portrays it as a joke. In addition, as the story is bizarre but true, one feels that the production team felt the style of film had to parallel this quirky theme to be publicly accepted (most notably the random voiceover musings and interfering sound track). Therefore, despite excellent acting performances and direction the film suffers from being too eccentric and does not quite fulfil its potential.

The Informant is in cinemas now.

pink & lilly Independent boutiques are often what keep a local community alive and continue to be a city’s best kept secret. Caroline Jackson is a fashion designer and manager of her own boutique, Pink & Lilly, located in Hockley, Nottingham. Small, independent retailers are fast being extinct following the recession but Pink & Lilly has managed to survive. We caught up with Caroline to enquire into her passion for fashion.

What is Pink & Lilly?

It is a ladies’ boutique, but it has developed from years of other stuff that I have done.

When I started as a freelance designer I set my own business up called Dub, it was sort of street fashion that suited the early 1990s and then through

the years my label changed and developed to fit in with different trends. You constantly have to adapt and change the way you work, so Pink & Lilly is the end result of years of different things.

What’s the story behind the name?

Well I started designing more feminine clothing. Lots of corsets, dresses, so I wanted something that would really suit the theme, something quite memorable and it arose after a brainstorming session with some girlfriends. It comes from the name of a pub somewhere that’s got a story attached to it: Mr. Pink and Miss Lily ran away and set this pub up together and we thought it was a really romantic story. [The Pink and Lily pub is situated between Oxford and London, near High Wycombe. The story unfolds that Mr. Pink was the butler

doing a masters in fashion knitwear. I was always leaning towards it, but you don’t know what you want to do until you start doing it I guess.

How would you describe your customer? Is there a personification of Pink & Lilly?

Anybody of any age who is looking for something different. The whole point of shopping with us is so you don’t look just like everyone else! People come in and say “Oh how refreshing”, and see things they haven’t seen anywhere else.

Would you say that the emphasis is more on style than fashion?

Yes, everybody wants to follow trends but also have an individual style. They want to look stylish but different.

of Hamden House, and Miss Lily was the chambermaid.

A brief love affair resulted in Miss Lily’s illegitimate pregnancy and they found themselves rejected by the Hamden family. Together they ran away and established a small hostel, which is known today as the ‘Pink and Lily pub’.]

How did it get started?

I was wholesaling my own label for years and I always wanted to have my own boutique, that was just one of my aims. It

was just a natural progression, when you have been selling to other boutiques for years it’s the next logical step. If you’re a designer and you make your own clothes, it’s your goal to have your own shop.

When and why did you decide to get involved in the fashion industry?

When I was at college I wasn’t that interested in fashion and I was more interested in textiles.

But my tutors were telling me to do fashion and I ended up

Why did you choose Hockley as the location for Pink & Lilly?

I spotted the shop and it was empty, and I thought “Oh I love it”. I like the big window!

There is quite a lot of passing traffic and it is also a nice area.

There isn’t anywhere else in Nottingham that has such an independent feel to it.

What is the fashion scene like in Nottingham?

There are a lot of events and things going on. We put on our own events to try and create more of a fashion industry; we’ve done loads of fashion shows now. We like to do two a year to try and showcase our collections. The last one we did was in Hockley because we wanted to get other local businesses involved: we got Jazz to do the hair and Fuzz boutique to do the men’s wear. It was called ‘Fashion Rocks’ so I got two of my friend’s bands to play; it wasn’t like a normal fashion show. The one I did previously to that was in The Living Room to celebrate that we won Heart FM’s Fashion Retailer of the Year in 2009.

There are a few other independent boutiques in Nottingham. Do you find there is a sense of community or an atmosphere of competition?

No, everyone gets on; I think the people who think there’s competition have a bit of a negative outlook. I always think if there are more shops, the more customers are going to come to Hockley. In the last year it has been a bit of a struggle as shops have been closing down, but things are picking up now. Everyone gets on and

tries to help each other out.

Do you have a style icon or muse? What influences your designs?

I guess my fashion icon is Paula Yates. She’s probably way before your time! Peaches’ mum.

She has always been my style icon ever since I was little, I

always loved her. I take influences from all over the place, you just end up looking at what works, and if you’re looking commercially at your own label, you have to ask your customers what they want. We stick with just a certain number of styles now

and keep reinventing them because they keep selling. It has got to be saleable when you’re thinking about a boutique.

What do you think the key trends are this season?

Shoulders are going to be big, lace is in again, pastel shades, creams, nautical themes. It’s all going a bit brighter. I think we’ve all had enough of sequins now!

What do you think makes British fashion so appealing?

It is just so unique, quirky and kooky. People are not that bothered about following one single trend. Trends just come out of nowhere: skinny jeans on guys and plimp soles, and the whole preppy look, all these little gangs and niches, and owning a shop makes you notice it all. You get those girls who have the Jack Wills pants on, the Uggs, the denim skirts, but then also the girls with the tattooed chests and things. So many different styles. That’s what is so unique about being in the UK. Have you noticed any changes in shopping patterns due to the recession?

People wanted more accessories so we have gone heavier on accessories; we probably sell as many accessories as we do clothes, sometimes more. Everyone is asking us to do shoes so we have started to do shoes this season, so we are always changing. You have constantly to change and adapt.

What is your favourite item in your wardrobe?

It’s an Arrogant Cat coat that I have had for about ten years.

When I bought it my husband thought it looked like I was going to some sort of medieval re-enactment but it’s lovely! It is cream with pleats down the front; it’s kind of like a tailcoat thing. It’s beautiful but it’s knackered. My thing is jackets and coats, my wardrobe is full of jackets and coats.

You are also a fashion and textiles teacher at NCN in Nottingham. Does the interaction with the students have an impact on Pink & Lilly in any way?

I think mixing with the younger generation and having younger staff keep you thinking creatively and upto-date. You do absorb things without realising it but that’s a two-way thing I think.

Your husband is a professional photographer. Do you ever collaborate?

Yes, that is how we met! I needed a photographer to take

pictures for one of my collections. He does my photos very cheaply. Fashion designers should always date photographers!

What magazines do you buy?

Are you a Vogue or an Elle girl?

I’m kind of an Elle Girl, but I like the indie magazines they sell in Waterstones. Dutch Magazine is one of my all time favourites but sadly it’s not around any more but I was happy when they re-launched Nova.

Finally, what are your longterm plans for Pink & Lilly?

Currently in the recession, it’s just to stay open; it has been a challenge the last year. We need to build on the website which was launched in December and to keep selling online. We want to focus on marketing nationally really.

Maybe another boutique?

Who knows? Never say never!

For more information please visit www.pinkandlilly.co.uk

Copyright 2010. VNTD Magazine