Craft of Cocktails 2016

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E D ITO R: T H O M F O U N TA I N WR ITE RS: T h o m F o u n ta i n , N ata l i e Ro s e n k r a n z , H a i l e y M e l a n d e r D ES I G N : E R I C C H R I S T E N S O N , JA N A E B R E U N I G PH OTO S: A N D R E A PAU L S E T H

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A L I N E U P O F C O C K TA I L S AT T H E L A K E LY I N E AU C L A I R E

ANDREA PAULSETH

INTRODUCTION

SO, WHAT MAKES A CRAFT COCKTAI L?

By THOM FOUNTAIN / photo by andrea paulseth et’s cut to the chase here: We’re going to spend a lot of time here just talking about booze. But booze plays an important role in our culture. We gather in bars to watch sports and talk politics and go on first dates and celebrate our lives. So if we can geek out about local craft beer or geek out about local artisan honey, why can’t we geek out about booze?

Love it or hate it, it’s a trend that’s picking up steam in Eau Claire, but also around the country. With the advent of the “craft cocktail,” more and more bars are slowing down and focusing on more refined, complexflavored drinks that go beyond (or sometimes even build on) the

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mixed drinks we all know.

“It’s the measurement, dilution, balance, and flavor profiles,” Jorja Vradenberg told me while sitting on the patio of The Lakely, where she leads the bar program. “It’s a cocktail made with intention.”

A lot of this growth comes from new establishments including The Lakely, the bars at The Lismore, The Local Lounge, and others, as well as new distilleries like Infinity Beverages and the Chippewa River Distillery. It comes from locals stepping into new shoes, and in the case of Vradenberg and The Dive’s bar manager, Megan Arts, locals returning home with a breadth of experience and expertise from well

respected cocktail programs across the country.

That’s not to say Eau Claire hasn’t always had great drinks and great drinkmakers, because we have. But this resurgence of classic cocktails (your Sazerac, or Negroni, or Aviation) and new creations is raising the bar of, well, bars in the community.

The biggest thing this shift does for the community at large is to bring more options to the table. It’s not about saying that you can’t enjoy your $2 G&T from your neighborhood dive – because most nights I’ll be right there next to you – but it’s giving options to expand your taste and give more opportunities to treat

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yourself to something you might’ve previously driven to Minneapolis for. It also helps to give Eau Claire unique advantages as more tourists from those bigger cities come and find us.

But what makes a cocktail “craft?” That’s pretty subjective.

It’s the intention Vradenberg mentioned. It’s the quality of ingredients. It’s the experience of seeing it made. It’s all of these things without being gimmicky.

And because of who we are, it’s all of these things without being pretentious.

So, yes, it’s booze. But it’s more than that: It’s all the things that make the Chippewa Valley great: dedication, art, and community.

ANDREA PAULSETH

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BREAKI NG DOWN TH E O LD FAS H I O N ED IT’S ON E OF TH E GR E ATE ST COCKTA I L S I N TH E WOR LD, AND NO ONE DOES IT LIKE WE DO IN WISCONSIN

By v1 staff

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f there were a drink to define Wisconsin, it has to be the Brandy Old Fashioned. The simple, classic drink is easy to find around the country, but for some reason the Wisconsin variation takes a peculiar and unique turn towards complexity and sweetness.

what is in an old fashioned?

4 9 S tates • 2oz Rye Whiskey • 2 dashes Angostura bitters • 1 lump of sugar or 1/2oz simple syrup • Garnished with an orange peel

W isconsin • 2oz brandy • 2 dashes Angostura bitters • 1 sugar cube • 1-2 orange slice(s) • 2 maraschino cherries • sweet, sour or seltzer soda • ice

T H E O L D FAS H I O N E D AT H O U L I G A N S I N E AU C L A I R E

THE HISTORY of the old fashioned

ordering your old fashioned “I’ll take an Old Fashioned,

1806 The first recorded use of the word “Cocktail,” defined in a magazine as “a potent concoction of spirits, bitters, water, and sugar.”

, please.”

S oda : Carbonated Water Sweet: 7-Up S our : Sour Mix P ress : Seltzer & Lemon-Lime (stands for “Presbyterian”)

1882 The Chicago Tribune lists a recipe with rye whiskey that is remarkably similar to the modern variations of the Old Fashioned.

houligans is doing it right

Houligans Steak & Seafood Pub in downtown Eau Claire is well known for its classic Wisconsin Brandy Old Fashioned, so we chatted with owner John Feybold about some of his thoughts: What makes the Old Fashioned so popular in Wisconsin?

I think it’s an easy cocktail to drink. It’s brandy, but smooth and sweet. It’s a palatable drink to consume, and reminds people of the more classic supper club craze.

Why is there such a strong connection to supper clubs in Wisconsin?

I grew up in southern Wisconsin and started years ago bartending and making people those drinks on Friday and Saturday. It’s the feel of a sense of community, knowing the bartender and your server, knowing other neighbors and friends.

What makes Houligans Old Fashioned so sought-after?

We make them from scratch and every bartender’s been doing it the same way. We’re also adapting them to the younger generations, who appreciate variations. It’s winter now, so the apple and maple Old Fashioneds will be popular.

1885 A Louisiana cocktail book – La Cuisine Creole – lists an Old Fashioned recipe with muddled cherry and orange.

1893 This is where we dip into legend. Supposedly, this is when a group of German immigrants move from Chicago to Wisconsin, bringing with them a love of Korbel Brandy.

139,000

That’s the number of barrels of Korbel Brandy exported to Wisconsin each year. It accounts for 33 percent of the company’s total sales.

for a twist, try this!

O ld M an W inter • 2oz Templeton Rye (or other rye) • 1/2oz Apple Cinnamon syrup* • 2 dashes Angostura bitters • 3 drops Bittercube Cherry Bark Vanilla bitters • Garnish with an apple slice Simmer one part water with one part demerara sugar, three cinnamon sticks and four apple slices. Strain and cool.

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T H E W I T C H E S H E A R T C O C K TA I L AT S TAC K E D I N M E N O M O N I E

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TRULY STACKED COCKTAIL MENU A M E NOMON I E E ATE RY ’ S A M B ITIOU S DI V E I NTO S PEC I A LT Y COC KTA I L S

By hailey melander

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food,” Tosha said. “Some of it is inspired by comfort had Pop Rocks all over in my hair for Cinco de food, but we can go from high-concept to fair-type food Mayo. They exploded in the drink, then they – but done well with whole ingredients. That's our idea were just all over the place.” for our drinks, too.”

Just to be clear, Stacked Eatery’s co-owner The creation of these cocktails – though most from Stacy Gregerson is talking about a margarita the main menu have ... with Pop roots in supper club Rocks. It’s the perfect and Prohibition era example of the irrevclassic drinks and erent yet classy brand liquors – doesn’t folthat has come to delow a linear process. fine Stacked Eatery’s When they’re asked unique food, and now how a cocktail origiits cocktails. nated, Stacy and The bar side of Tosha have a unique Stacked has been story for each. open for about seven – S tacy G regerson , S tacked E atery “Using local months, but to some ingredients – somedegree it’s a well-kept times that will be the inspiration for a cocktail, then gem of a secret. “People still come in and don’t even the cocktail will carry over into the food, or vice versa. know that we have our liquor license,” Stacy said. To It depends sometimes on mood, or something that I've some degree, that suits Stacy and business partner made at home that I thought was really good,” Stacy Tosha Larson just fine. said. “I have a sense when it comes to food, my olfac“(The cocktails follow) the same concept as our

“ I t ’ s like how I don ’ t use recipes when I cook . You draw inspiration from a lot of different things , then you just kind of know how it ’ s going to go together .”

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tory sense, and tasting – I just have an idea of what's going to work. So when it comes to mixing or making new cocktails, it's like how I don't use recipes when I cook. You draw inspiration from a lot of different things, then you just kind of know how it’s going to go together.”

On occasion, Stacked’s cocktails even begin with the glassware. “We found these pineapple shaped shot glasses, and we were like ‘We have to get these glasses,’ so then we had to figure out what to put in those glasses,” said Tosha. Turns out, alcoholic shaved ice was a perfect fit.

Stacked’s main cocktail menu, however, anchors itself around revitalized classics. “Our gin and tonic, it's part tonic, part club soda, because we feel like a lot of time they're really sweet,” said Tosha.

“Once we came up with a lot of the basic cocktails, we tried to round out the flavors of the menu with different kinds of fruits or herbs. We had the Bellini, which had peach and lavender, so we try to come up with flavors that aren’t really common.”

In addition to rare flavors, Stacked also aims to reintroduce ingredients that were once common in drinks, like egg

whites. “I've had a lot of people who turn their nose up,” said Stacy. “They're like, ‘Ugh, egg in a cocktail?’ but it's like, you're not drinking egg white. Egg white causes the beautiful froth that you get on top, with sugar and lemon juice – you get a meringue on top of your cocktail, and it's so beautiful and it tastes amazing.”

The bestselling Sloe Gin Fizz features a frothy egg white cap, as does Stacked’s breakfast cocktail. “It ends up tasting kind of like orange juice,” said Stacy, “but it's made with a whole egg, and then a gin that's infused with Earl Grey – that one's really good. I'm really happy with how it turned out. It's beautiful, it's called a Golden Fizz.”

These cocktails, both old-school and specialty, are slowly gaining traction, and Stacked now sees loyal customers come in weekly to sample new menu items. The dynamic duo keeps their focus always on their customers and on upholding Stacked’s image of quality and class without pretension.

“We’re trying to do a really great job,” Stacy said. “We’re focusing on what we do and what we do best.”

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By thom fountain / photos by andrea paulseth

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bar shouldn’t be considered any different from a kitchen,” Megan Arts – the manager at Dive and The Informalist – told me. “You have a series of ingredients and it’s how you use them to create the drinks.”

And with that means that the best drinks come from the highest quality, freshest ingredients. That’s something that Dive, The Informalist, and other local establishments have taken to heart.

Behind Arts’ lead, her bar staff has made it a priority to hunt and gather local ingredients to bring their drinks to the next level.

These fresh, local ingredients show up all over the menu, but were most prominently on display this summer when Dive did a weekly “shrub” drink based on what they could forage or find at the Farmers Market. A “shrub” is a drink made with vinegar and a fruit or vegetable syrup – such as elderberry, or beets – mixed with a base liquor and of-

ten soda. They’re a nice, refreshing drink perfect for summer when there are plenty of local flavors to choose from.

“A lot of times with the shrubs, (bartender) Peter Diedrick would just go to the Farmers Market and see what was there, bring it back to the kitchen, and then we’d all sit around and shoot of ideas,” Arts said. The immediacy of foraging for in-season flavors keeps the menu fresh and gives a variety to new customers coming in to try something.

“It’s about keeping it really fun and fresh and new,” Arts said.

The bars at The Lismore aren’t the only ones focusing on local, fresh ingredients.

The Local Lounge and The Lakely both use gardens and fruit from on site and from local farmers for drink recipes and garnishes. “The possibility of making so many different types of drinks is there,” Arts said.

“It’s all about making the customer happy.

They might not have known it’s what they wanted until they get here.”

( A B O V E ) E au C laire ’ s E C D C has started I T S own small cocktail menu infusing coffee with booze . T he cocktails push the bounds of your normal caffeine laden e x perience , ( B E L O W ) T H E P O P U L A R A G AV E M A R I A C O C K TA I L AT D I V E .

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your TOP 3 FAVORITE LOCAL LI BATI O N S OU R BR A N D N EW ‘BE ST COCKTA I L’ CATEGORY I N OU R A N N UA L R E A DE R POL L Y I E L DE D SOM E C R A F T Y R E SU LTS

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Summer Heat

I nfinity Beverages WI N ERY & DISTI LLERY

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nfinity Beverages recently moved from Banbury Place to 3460 Mall Drive, and like their new space, their passion for good drinks and cozy vibes stretches to infinity and beyond. Summer Heat is no exception. Summer Heat began as a seasonal drink, but Infinity decided to keep it on the menu when they realized how popular it was among their customers. The Summer Heat cocktail consists of Infinity’s own vodka (often their peppered vodka), lemonade, and simple syrup, and it’s further garnished with jalapeno and cucumber slices. According to one bartender at Infinity, “A lot of customers don’t want to try the Summer Heat at first because they read ‘jalapenos,’ and they think, I can’t do that. But the jalapeno is very subtle; the cucumbers help calm things down, so you don’t really taste the warmness of the jalapeno until the end.” She added, “The secret to the Summer Heat is that you can’t shake it; you need to swirl it.”

Chippewa Mule C hippewa R iver D istillery

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he new Chippewa River Distillery serves a wide range of beers, cocktails, spirits, and more, so there’s a little bit of something for everyone.

Possibly the most popular cocktail served

at the Chippewa River Distillery, though, is the Chippewa Mule. The Chippewa Mule consists of the distillery’s own vodka, ginger beer, and a slice of lime combined in one of their own copper mugs.

“Moscow Mules are more of a refreshing drink, and they’re becoming more popular in general. I think the Chippewa Mule is especially popular because we use our own copper mugs, and that adds to the visual aspect of it,” said one bartender by phone. The distillery and cocktail room are open Wednesday-Thursday 4-10pm, Fridays 3pm-12am, Saturdays 12pm12am, and Sundays 12pm-7pm.

Agave Maria DIVE

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lthough The Lismore is still new to the Chippewa Valley, its rooftop bar – Dive – made a huge splash in our Best of the Chippewa Valley issue. Dive, 333 Gibson St., Eau Claire, is an upscale bar with a wide range of cocktails. Many of the cocktails are based on recipes from Megan Arts, who previously bartended at Marvel Bar in Minneapolis. The Agave Maria is the one that caught our attention this year, though. The Agave Maria consists of tequila, mezcal, lime, and smoked sea salt, shaken. It’s a smooth drink that tastes somewhat like a margarita, but it looks and feels much more elegant than one. As one bartender at The Dive commented, “I think it’s popular because it’s smokier than a regular margarita; that’s what makes it different.”

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resources compiled By THOM FOUNTAIN

Local Booze

C hippewa R iver D istillery The new distillery and brewery in Chippewa Falls creates mid-range spirits perfect for any occasion. They also have a small tasting room to give you some inspiration.

I nfinity B everages W I N E RY & D I S T I L L E RY The winery and distillery moved recently and expanded its operations. Infinity is known for its experimentation, such as its Beersky – whiskey distlled from beer.

RIVER BEND DISTILLING This Chippewa Falls distillery features an impressive lineup of “grain-to-glass” spirits. Try their delicious artisan White Whiskey.

D eath ’ s D oor A distillery in the Madison area has become nationally renowned for its gin, which can be found at most cocktail bars around the country.

B ittercube B itters The Milwaukee shop produces internationally known bitters, that are perfect to accompany any cocktail – alcoholic or not.

LOCAL Resources

B ottoms U p!

Jim Draeger and Mark Speltz take you on a tour of historic taverns around Wisconsin, diving deep into the history and culture of drinking in our state.

Wisconsin S upper C lubs Ron Faiola’s book explores Supper Club culture throughout Wisconsin, with a heavy focus on the classic Old Fashioned.

Not-So-Local Resources

D eath & C o.

What many consider to be the bartender’s bible, this how-to and recipe book outlines how David Kaplan started one of the quintessential cocktail bars in America.

Oh, and there are hundreds of great recipes.

Proof In this New York Times bestseller, tech writer Adam Rogers dives into the history and science of making and serving booze since the beginning of time.

The D runken B otanist Amy Stewart takes the Farm-To-Glass concept seriously with an almanac of how to grow your drinks in your garden.

Road Trips

M inneapolis : M arvel B ar A hidden away speakeasy in the North Loop neighborhood, Marvel Bar is well known for their experimental takes on classic recipes.

M inneapolis : E at S treet S ocial You’ll find a nice collection of classic and new cocktails on their menu, with a knowledgable staff that can help you find exactly what you want.

M adison : F ore q uarter A welcoming bar with playful, fun drinks that push the boundaries of classic and craft cocktails without being overly pretentious.

M ilwaukee : B ryant ’ s L ounge An historic cocktail tavern, dating back to 1936 that’s been recently revived with a modern cocktail program that still harkens back to its past.

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