Craft of Cocktails 2018 by Volume One Magazine

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ANDREA PAULSETH

INTRODUCTION

SO, WHAT MAKES A CRAFT COCKTAI L? BY THOM FOUNTAIN

et’s cut to the chase here: We’re going to spend a lot of time here just talking about booze. But booze plays an important role in our culture. We gather in bars to watch sports and talk politics and go on first dates and celebrate our lives. So if we can geek out about local craft beer or geek out about local artisan honey, why can’t we geek out about booze? Love it or hate it, it’s a trend that’s picking up steam in Eau Claire, but also around the country. With the advent of the “craft cocktail,” more and more bars are slowing down and focusing on more refined, complex-flavored drinks that go beyond (or sometimes even

build on) the mixed drinks we all know. “It’s the measurement, dilution, balance, and flavor profiles,” Jorja Vradenberg told me while sitting on the patio of The Lakely, where she leads the bar program. “It’s a cocktail made with intention.” A lot of this growth comes from new establishments including The Lakely, the bars at The Lismore, and others, as well as distilleries such as Infinity Beverages and the Chippewa River Distillery. It comes from locals stepping into new shoes, and in the case of Vradenberg, locals returning home with a breadth of experience and expertise from well respected cocktail programs

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across the country. That’s not to say Eau Claire hasn’t always had great drinks and great drinkmakers, because we have. But this resurgence of classic cocktails (your Sazerac, or Negroni, or Aviation) and new creations is raising the bar of, well, bars in the community. The biggest thing this shift does for the community at large is to bring more options to the table. It’s not about saying that you can’t enjoy your $2 G&T from your neighborhood dive – because most nights I’ll be right there next to you – but it’s giving options to expand your taste and give more opportunities to treat yourself to something you

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might’ve previously driven to Minneapolis for. It also helps to give Eau Claire unique advantages as more tourists from those bigger cities come and find us. But what makes a cocktail “craft?” That’s pretty subjective. It’s the intention Vradenberg mentioned. It’s the quality of ingredients. It’s the experience of seeing it made. It’s all of these things without being gimmicky. And because of who we are, it’s all of these things without being pretentious. So, yes, it’s booze. But it’s more than that: It’s all the things that make the Chippewa Valley great: dedication, art, and community.

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BY TOM GIFFEY

new book by New York Times cocktail writer (and Wisconsin native) Robert Simonson memorializes Eau Claire is a way that local imbibers will appreciate: through the name of a cocktail. The book, 3-Ingredient Cocktails: An Opinionated Guide to the Most Enduring Drinks in the Cocktail Canon, features what Simonson christens “The Eau Claire Old Fashioned.” As a Wisconsinite, Simonson is intimately family with the Badger State’s beloved cocktail; in fact, in 2014 he wrote a book all about it titled The Old Fashioned: The Story of the World’s First Classic Cocktail, With Recipes and Lore. Dating back the 19th century, the Old Fashioned was originally – and in most places, still is – a whiskey-based cocktail. In fact, it was one of the first cocktails ever concocted. Here in Wisconsin we do things differently: Old Fashioneds are made with brandy and frequently fruit and soda (7-Up or Sprite), making them sweeter than the ones mixed up by bartenders in the other 49 states. As Simonson wrote in The Old Fashioned, a Wisconsin-style Brandy Old Fashioned is a “sweet, fruity soup, devoid of much

delicacy. But love it or hate it, you’ve got to pay the old girl some respect.” Wisconsin is responsible for 45 percent of the sales of California-based Korbel brandy, Simonson writes. He also quotes a Milwaukee bar owner who speculates that Wisconsin kept Angostura bitters afloat during the “dark years of cocktails” before the current craft drinking revival. In 3-Ingredient Cocktails Simonson offers his own simplified recipe for “The Eau Claire Old Fashioned,” a refined take on the Sconnie supper club classic: • 2 ounces Pierre Ferrand 1840 cognac • 1 bar spoon of simple syrup • 3 dashes Bittercube Cherry Bark Vanilla bitters Simonson advises to stir the ingredients with one large ice cube and to add a twist of orange. (That would be a fourth ingredient, but who’s counting?) “The drink is named after Eau Claire, a mid-sized city in upper Wisconsin founded by French explorers, who would have known their cognac,” Simonson wrote.

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ody Maciosek, who has been bartending at The Lakely in Eau Claire for a little over a year, has five years of cocktail mixing under his belt and a dedication to quality of ingredients. Maciosek takes inspiration for his drinks from the seasons, from food, and, like many of us, from the contents of his liquor cabinet. Volume One got a peek inside that liquor cabinet, and sat down with Maciosek to discuss its contents and his cocktail-mixing methods. Volume One: As a drink-mixer, are you more traditional or more experimental? Cody Maciosek: I’m more traditional.

I’m a purist when it comes to drinks. I prefer high-quality and simple over many ingredients and experimental. – Cody Maciosek, bartender, The Lakely I’m a purist when it comes to drinks. I prefer high-quality and simple over many ingredients and experimental. What’s your favorite drink, and why? Oh, God, that’s so dependent on the day. Today, right now, I’m feelin’ a Sazerac. That’s rye whiskey, cognac, absinthe rinse in the glass and some

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Peychaud’s Bitters. Part of why I love cocktails is the history of them, how they come about. This one has such a cool story, and it’s damn tasty. There used to be a drink in New Orleans called the flip, and it was a rye whiskey-based drink. And they’d send over lots of cognac, because in New Orleans cognac was also big. So they’d send over cognac

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and absinthe from France and in the ships they would also store the glasses that would come over from France. Sometimes a glass of absinthe would break on the voyage, and it would rinse these glasses – they had the glasses underneath the absinthe bottles – so somebody took one of those glasses and put a flip inside it and the absinthe rinse became its own thing, people tweaked it, and it became the Sazerac. Do you make up your own drink ideas? Definitely. You know, it’s very seasonally inspired. Right now, because it’s getting colder I have a lot of stronger, warm-flavored drinks. You find whatever you have in your cabinet

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Instead of simple syrup that goes into a lot of drinks, why not use local syrup or honey? and see what goes together and those similar flavors. Do you try new things on your own, or do you prefer to experiment when you’re entertaining? When it’s just me and my girlfriend having a drink, I usually just have something classic. But when we’ve got friends over they’ll bring something and we’ll experiment with what everybody has and kind of make it a competition. I was at a friend’s howuse the other night, and the secret ingredient that we had to use was red curry paste. Now it sounds weird, and some of them – most of them – weren’t good. But it’s fun to go outside the box, and see what you can come up with. Sometimes it’s good, and sometimes it’s bad. What’s the most successful experiment you’ve tried? I had a dessert that I loved at a restaurant. It was a pear that was poached in port. You make this port reduction out of the sauce that you poached it in, and then you had this vanilla ice cream. It was one of the best things I’ve ever had. I had pear brandy, and i had port, and I was like, “What if

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I could recreate this dessert in a drink?” So I took the pear brandy, and I mixed port and a little house-made vanilla syrup.

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When you have a success like that, do you revisit it later, or do you prefer to keep it as a one-time experience? I kind of make one and leave it, and go on to another one.

IN THE CHIPPEWA VALLE TWO YEARS IN A ROW!

What ingredient could you not live without? I love maple syrup. Maple syrup or lemon, or both, would be the two. Instead of simple syrup that goes into a lot of drinks, why not use local syrup or honey, which is practically the same thing. Lemon is hard to live without because acidity in cocktails is hard to come by.

i ed with spic oody is filled his blo Th

and a Laffy Taffy n, a sandwich, bacon

What do you prioritize when you’re buying spirits and other drink ingredients? Quality. And it doesn’t have to be expensive. … I don’t want a truckload of sugar. I can add sugar at home if I really need to. It goes back to, I’m a purist. Quality ingredients make a quality drink.

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STORY AND PHOTO BY TOM GIFFEY

he holidays are a great time of year to try out a new drink (or two!) while celebrating with family and friends. We asked our own family and friends about their favorite Christmastime cocktails and compiled this list of yuletide concoctions. Some are old favorites, while others are 21st century creations. We predict that any of these spirits will make your spirit bright this holiday season.

TOM AND JERRY

ot to be confused with the cartoon cat-and-mouse duo, the Tom and Jerry is a beloved Christmastime hot toddy that dates back to jolly old England

nearly 200 years ago. Essentially, a Tom and Jerry is a variation on eggnog with brandy and/or rum added. This time of year you can usually find pre-made Tom and Jerry mix in the grocery store (check the liquor or dairy sections). To make the drink, add a jigger (1.5 ounces) of rum or brandy or a half jigger of each to a coffee mug. Fill the rest of the mug with hot water, than add a generous tablespoon or two of Tom and Jerry mix. To make it extra fancy, sprinkle a bit or cinnamon or nutmeg on top. Omit the alcohol for a version that can be enjoyed by non-drinkers of all ages. (You can also make your own Tom and Jerry mix at home,

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but that means potentially drinking raw eggs, so consider yourself warned!)

WASSAIL

BRANDY SLUCH

f Tom and Jerrys aren’t your style, try mixing up a pot of another old English holiday specialty: wassail. Wassail is a hot, mulled cider, if you’ve heard of it before it’s likely because it’s celebrated in old Christmas songs (“Here We Come A-Wassailing,” among others) and stories. “Wassail” comes from an old Anglo-Saxon phrase that basically means “to your health,” and wassailing was originally a ritual that involved chants and offerings to apple trees in midwinter to ensure a bountiful harvest the following year. Later, it evolved into a door-todoor caroling, drinking, and gift-giving celebration. One Eau Claire reader says she and her husband have made it a tradition to serve wassail to holiday guests. She suggests using decaffeinated black tea, “otherwise people get very awake yet buzzed”!

ant your freezer to be just like granddad’s used to be? The mix up some brandy slush! “A big bucket of brandy slush has been a part of my holiday gatherings for nearly as long as I can remember,” says Volume One’s Neil Hodorowski. “The stuff goes quite quickly at our family gatherings and is something that should be enjoyed at other times of the year as well. My aunt shared the recipe with me a few years ago. Simply mix all the ingredients into the appropriately sized container, making sure to leave additional room for expansion when it freezes. The slush will freeze semi-solid, making it quite easy to scoop out. Fill a glass approximately three-quarters full of slush and top with a sweet or sour wash (7-Up, Squirt, ginger ale, etc.). The wash will blend in nicely with the slush and tastes best when consumed through a straw. My aunt occasionally adds variety by adding frozen strawberries or other fruit to change it up a bit, but basically anything can work!”

WASSAI L 1. Boil one quart of water. Steep four tea bags for 5 minutes. 2. Add two cinnamon sticks, 16 whole cloves, and 1 teaspoon whole allspice. If at all possible, put the spices in a tea ball. Simmer the spices for 15 minutes, then remove them. 3. Meanwhile, make a syrup of one-half cup sugar and one-half cup water. 4. Add to the tea mixture 2 quarts of apple cider, one 6 oz. can of frozen orange juice concentrate, one pint of cranberry juice, and the syrup. You can also add one cup of rum. 5. The recipe will make about 1 gallon of liquid. It can be served with orange slices floating on top.

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BRANDY SLUSH 16 oz. orange juice frozen concentrate 6 oz. limeade frozen concentrate 6 oz. lemonade frozen concentrate 2 cups brandy 2 cups sugar 9.5 cups water Stir and freeze 7-Up, Squirt, or ginger ale for mixing

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h, that looks so good!” 10-yearold Ivy Meier thought when she saw a Grasshopper – after all, the cocktail’s main ingredient was ice cream. She was at a supper club with her mother, sister, and grandmother. They always went to the supper club when her grandmother visited to relax and enjoy each other’s company. Grandma pointed out that it is Wisconsin, after all, and with their mother present Meier could have a drink. So Meier’s mother bought the two girls a Grasshopper to share. “That was a lot of fun, because you feel like an adult, and you feel mature but also kind of risqué,” Meier said of the experience years later, seated at one of the corner booths at Skoog’s Parkside Supper Club in Menomonie, where she works as the beverage manager. She never imagined that she would be a bartender, but a chance conversation with one of the club’s owners two years ago got her the gig. She knows that a cocktail is more than just a drink: When enjoyed in the right setting, with the right people, and crafted by a bartender who knows how to mix drinks and stir up conversation, even a standard Brandy Old Fashioned can be a rich pleasure. Now Meier gets to give the people who visit Skoog’s the same comfortable, friendly experience she remembers from her childhood. She especially loves working on holidays, when decadent cocktails like ice cream drinks and White Russians take center stage. “People don’t come here just to get a quick bite or a quick drink,” Meier said. “They come here for the experience. So I try to engage with people as much as I can.” She memorizes customers’ favorite drink and chats with visitors at the bar while they wait for their guests. “I see a lot of friendships blossom at the bar, actually, which is a beautiful thing,” she said. Sometimes people meet

I V Y M E I E R AT S KO O G ' S PA R KS I D E

for the first time at the bar, and strike up such quick friendships that they schedule monthly meet-ups at Skoog’s. “It’s not only about family and friends, but about making new ones.” “I can’t even tell you how many Old Fashioneds I’ve made in the past two years,” Meier said. They are the establishment favorite, after all. Skoog’s will serve them to taste, sour or sweet, with muddled fruit. While Meier’s personal favorite drink is a good old

Margarita, she can’t deny there’s a magic about lounging on one of the leather armchairs by the fireplace, listening to Frank Sinatra and chatting with friends while sipping on a classic Old Fashioned. She’s often watched as guests nod off in those cozy seats, the surest sign of a supper club cocktail well enjoyed. Skoog’s Parkside Supper Club • 932 N. Broadway, Menomonie • 5-10pm Monday-Saturday, Sunday brunch 10am-3pm • skoogsparkside.com

People don’t come here just to get a quick bite or a quick drink. They come here for the experience. – ivy meier, skoog's parkside T H E C R A F T O F C O C K TA I L S 2 0 1 8

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LOCAL BOOZE

C H I P P E WA R I V E R D I S T I L L E RY The distillery and brewery in Chippewa Falls creates mid-range spirits perfect for any occasion. They also have a small tasting room to give you some inspiration. I N F I N I T Y B E V E R AG E S W I N E RY & D I S T I L L E RY The Eau Claire-based winery and distillery moved a couple of years ago and continues to grow in production and creativity. Infinity is known for its experimentation, such as its Beersky – whiskey distilled from beer. RIVER BEND DISTILLING This Chippewa Falls distillery features an impressive lineup of “grain-to-glass” spirits. Try their delicious artisan White Whiskey. D E AT H ’ S D O O R A distillery in the Madison area has become nationally renowned for its gin, which can be found at most cocktail bars around the country. BITTERCUBE BITTERS The Milwaukee shop produces internationally known bitters, that are perfect to accompany any cocktail – alcoholic or not.

LOCAL RESOURCES

B OTTO M S U P! Jim Draeger and Mark Speltz take you on a tour of historic taverns around Wisconsin, diving deep into the history and culture of drinking in our state. WI S C O N S I N S U PPE R C LU B S Ron Faiola’s book explores Supper Club culture throughout Wisconsin, with a heavy focus on the classic Old Fashioned.

NOT-SO-LOCAL RESOURCES

D EATH & C O. What many consider to be the bartender’s bible, this how-to and recipe book outlines how David Kaplan started one of the quintessential cocktail bars in America. Oh, and there are hundreds of great recipes. PR O O F In this New York Times bestseller, tech writer Adam Rogers dives into the history and science of making and serving booze since the beginning of time. TH E D R U N KE N B OTAN I ST Amy Stewart takes the Farm-To-Glass concept seriously with an almanac of how to grow your drinks in your garden.

ROAD TRIPS

M I N N E A P O L I S : M A RV E L B A R A hidden away speakeasy in the North Loop neighborhood, Marvel Bar is well known for their experimental takes on classic recipes. M I N N E A P O L I S : E AT S T R E E T S O C I A L You’ll find a nice collection of classic and new cocktails on their menu, with a knowledgable staff that can help you find exactly what you want. M A D I S O N : F O R E Q UA R T E R A welcoming bar with playful, fun drinks that push the boundaries of classic and craft cocktails without being overly pretentious. M I LWAU K E E : B RYA N T ’ S L O U N G E An historic cocktail tavern, dating back to 1936 that’s been recently revived with a modern cocktail program that still harkens back to its past. T H E C R A F T O F C O C K TA I L S 2 0 1 8

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