Wine Time 2018

whether you’re a newbie or a straight-up connoisseur, the Chippewa Valley and surrounding areas offer a vast variety of different wines and beverages. Despite Wisconsin being known as a beer state, we hold our own in the sweet (or dry) treat. So as the weather turns nice, hit the road – or stay right in town – and enjoy the fruit of the vine. sponsored by:

WORDS: Emilee Wentland, William Bernier, Samantha Nash LISTINGS: James Johonnott DESIGN: Eric Christenson

THE FINEST ON THE VINE the top three local wineries from our 2018 Best of the Chippewa Valley Reader Poll words by EMILEE

WENTLAND •

photo by LEE

BUTTERWORTH

WHETHER YOU’RE A WINE EXPERT or more

of a novice, each of these winemakers are sure to have something you’ll be interested in. These wineries were voted the Best of the Chippewa Valley in Volume One’s 2018 reader poll for a reason. With a variety of wines unique to each location, there’s a wide assortment to choose from. River Bend’s array of white and red wines is extensive, but their assortment of dessert and sparkling wines add a fun, unexpected touch to their menu. Autumn Harvest’s 13 fruity wines are made with apples from their own orchard, but they also feature a hard apple cider on tap. Finally, Infinity Beverages’ selection of both wines and spirits unique to them provides options for those who are looking for something extraordinary.

RIVER BEND VINEYARD & WINERY

1. RIVER BEND VINEYARD & WINERY

River Bend Vineyard & Winery (10439 33rd Ave., Chippewa Falls) has a tasting room, events, and, of course, wine! From open to close each day, River Bend offers free wine tasting. After you’ve tasted plenty, feel free to shop around and get yourself a bottle – or two!

White, red, rose, sparkling, and dessert, this winery has a wide assortment to choose from. River Bend suggests enjoying your wine of choice out on their patio, but it can get busy, so be sure to bring some lawn chairs!

Tours and group tastings are also available if you call ahead. Open weekends. To learn more, check out riverbendvineyard.com.

2. AUTUMN HARVEST WINERY & ORCHARD

Using apples from their orchard mixed with grapes, whole fruit, and fruit juices, Autumn Harvest (19947 County Highway J, Chippewa Falls) makes light, crisp wines in 300 gallon batches. Since their opening in 2004, their list has grown from six to 13 wines. Visits to Autumn Harvest include a free wine tasting. In addi-

tion to wine, they offer “Grampa Mac’s hard apple cider” on tap. Several wines and the hard apple cider are only available in Autumn Harvest’s tasting room, and cannot be bought in stores. Autumn Harvest also hosts live music performances periodically throughout the season. Open May through October. To learn more, visit autumnharvestwinery.com.

3. INFINITY BEVERAGES WINERY & DISTILLERY

Featuring a tasting lounge and tours, Infinity Beverages (3460 Mall Drive, Eau Claire) is a great

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place to visit in groups. Infinity Beverages’ tours feature a history of the winery and distillery that details production and processing techniques, and to top it off you’ll enjoy a tasting of their wine and spirits selection. Tastings feature regionally produced pairings that change throughout the year. Infinity Beverages advises customers to “come with an open mind,” as their wines are unique and out of the ordinary. The venue is open evenings through the week and all day on the weekends. Infinity Beverages also offers the mezzanine for party and event rentals. For more details, visit infinitybeverages.com.

SIX SAVORY WISCO WINE & CHEESE PAIRINGS words by WILLIAM

“Eau Claire Wine Guy” William Bernier suggests these combinations of Wisconsin-made cheeses and wines from the award-winning Wollersheim Winery of Prairie du Sac.

BERNIER

WHERE’S THE WINE GUY?

WOLLERSHEIM WINERY

Castle Rock Organic Farms (Osseo), Smoked Blue Cheese. Pair with Wollersheim Port. The rich, bold flavors of this wine are a near perfect match for a pungent blue cheese.

Holland Family Cheese (Thorp), Marieke Gouda. Pair with Wollersheim Dry Riesling, a gentle, nearly dry white with aromas of basil and licorice and a palate of crisp green apple. This wine is a unique, gentle white that won’t overpower the softness of the Gouda.

Cady Cheese Factory (Wilson), Colby.

Pair with Wollersheim Prairie Fume, a crisp, fresh, semi-dry white bursting with citrus and tropical fruit aromas reminiscent of orange and grapefruit with a hint of sweetness. Perfect for the

Colby’s mild, mellow flavor.

La Grander’s Hillside Dairy (Stanley), Medium Cheddar. Pair with Wollersheim Pinot Noir. Aromas of black currant, bay leaves, and eucalyptus and a silky palate will complement this Wisconsin favorite.

Eau Galle Cheese (Durand), Asiago. Pair with Wollersheim Prairie Sunburst

Red, a soft, gentle, and stylish fruity red that will sit nicely with this awardwinning Asiago.

Ellsworth Cooperative Creamy (Ellsworth), Fresh Cheese Curds. Pair with Wollersheim Prairie Blush, a bright, fruity, and sweet tart blush that will play well with the squeaky saltiness of fresh Ellsworth curds.

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William Bernier holds several standing monthly events: • First Wednesday of every month: Wine dinner at Forage Eau Claire with Chef Michele Thiede.

• Second Thursday of every month: Wine & Food Class/Tasting at Trail’s End, Osseo.

• Last Wednesday of every month: Wine dinner at Tee Away Golf & Super Club in Ladysmith with Chef Andrew Johnson.

• Second Wednesday of the month (June-September): Wine Night at Together Farms in Mondovi.

Bernier also occasionally holds wine dinners at Zanzibar in Menomonie, Johnny’s Italian Steakhouse in Eau Claire and Fannie’s Supper Club in Neillsville and tastings & classes at The Ivory Piano Bar in Eau Claire, Big Guys BBQ in Hudson and Bye the Willow in Chippewa Falls.

Learn more online at facebook.com/ EauClaireWineGuy.

PUTTING DOWN ROOTS how discoveries and accidents led to winemaking in Wisconsin words by SAMANTHA

WISCONSIN’S WINE INDUSTRY IS MODEST IN SCALE, BUT HAS ROOTS AS OLD AS THE STATE ITSELF. A Hungarian immigrant

named Agoston Haraszthy planted the state’s first vineyard in 1846 on the east bank of the Wisconsin River and founded the community that would become Sauk City. He headed west three years later, establishing the famous Buena Vista Vineyard in Seminole, California, and became known as the father of Californian winemaking. In Wisconsin, Haraszthy’s vineyard lands would later become the site of Wollersheim Winery.

The wines produced in Wisconsin’s unlikely climate are the result of centuries of selection, cultivation and hybridization of many grape varieties, said Amaya Atucha, a fruit crop specialist with the University of Wisconsin-Extension and assistant professor of horticulture at UW-Madison.

With only 80 to 180 frost-free days across different parts of the state in an average year, Wisconsin’s cold climate and soil pH is not particularly hospitable to many wine grapes.

“It’s very challenging to grow grapes here,” Atucha said in a lecture recorded for Wisconsin Public Television’s University Place. “And this has been a lot of science and a lot of discoveries and accidents that have taken us through this journey to be able to have Wisconsin wine.”

Variants of a grape species first cultivated in western Asia thousands of years ago, Vitis vinifera, are

NASH, WISCONTEXT •

photo by ANDREA

PAULSETH

THE HARVEST AT RIVER BEND VINEYARD & WINERY

grown to produce 99 percent of the world’s wine today. While male and female flowers grow separately on wild grapes, Vitis vinifera was bred to have what are called perfect flowers, which have reproductive structures for both sexes. This morphology

greatly increases fruit yield, supplying enough juice to produce wine.

Many grape species are native to the Americas, including Vitis riparia, Vitis berlandieri, and Vitis labrusca.

Wine production did not begin in the Western Hemisphere until the 1500s, though, when Spanish conquistadors and missionaries planted vineyards in hospitable regions using cuttings of Vitis vinifera. The lower fruit yields of North American grape species proved unfavorable for wine production, and the flavors of their wines discouraged cultivation for that purpose.

“For me, coming from Chile, never having these grapes … it just tasted very chemical, like this foxy taste,” Atucha said of her first experience with juice made from Concord grapes, which is cultivated from Vitis labrusca, and left her believing the taste was artificial.

“Afterwards, they took me to a vineyard where there was Concord grapes and they gave me some of the grapes to taste, and I was like, ‘Wow, it tastes just like the juice,’ ” she said.

Much of North America is inhospitable to Vitis vinifera, leading to failed attempts at establishing vineyards in the British colonies along the Atlantic Seaboard during the 1600s and 1700s.

European grapes faltered in the climate, and they were also more susceptible to insects and disease American

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grape species had evolved to resist.

It was not until the 1740 discovery of the Alexander grape in Philadelphia that North American wine production became feasible. A natural hybrid, this variety combined the hermaphroditic flowering traits of Vitis vinifera with the hardiness of a native species. The new, viable variety sparked an interest in hybridization, resulting in grapes capable of flourishing and producing wine in Wisconsin a century later.

“So the solution to the problem was actually not to try to make the vinifera grow, but to find a grape that would survive, that would yield enough, and that would make wine decent enough that they could sell and that people could drink,” Atucha said.

ANCIENT HISTORY

Modern viticulture has its roots in the soils of the southern Caucasus Mountains, a region that now includes portions of Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Turkey, and northern Iran and Iraq. The first evidence of wine production dates to around 7,000 years ago, when the burgeoning viticulturists of the Neolithic era found particularly fruitful Vitis vinifera vines, grew these grapes along the shores of the Caspian and Black seas, and began fermenting the juice. Viticulture spread to Mesopotamia, Egypt, and on to regions

around the Mediterranean.

Over time and through trade, the rise of the Roman Empire and the growth of Christianity, Vitis vinifera eventually found a new, favorable climate in the high pH soils of southern Europe. Romans advanced grape cultivation and wine production, but the monks of the medieval Catholic Church developed many of the techniques used in the present day.

While Native Americans fermented fruits like apples and other plants to produce alcoholic beverages, there is no archeological evidence to suggest grapes were used to produce wine, despite the fruit’s prevalence in North America.

In the 1620s, King James I declared wine production mandatory in Virginia. He sought to supplement supplies from France, Italy, and Spain by meeting the growing British taste for wine with a domestic product, so as to lessen dependence on imports from these rival nations.

Several North American wild grape species contributed to the hybridization of Vitis vinifera. Vitis riparia, found from Canada to Texas and between the Atlantic Ocean to the Rocky Mountains, is cold hardy and resistant to fungus and disease. Vitis berlandieri, native to central Texas and eastern Mexico, grows well in high pH soils and aids in breeding of grapes for a variety of soil types.

Vitis rupestri, a nearly extinct species, lent disease and fungal resistance to some modern varieties. And Vitis labrusca is a vigorous vine known as the Northern Fox Grape; its cold hardy variants have a distinct flavor, the Concord grape the most famous among them.

New Englander Ephraim Bull created the Concord grape, named for his hometown in Massachusetts, after testing millions of seedlings and selecting based on desired traits. The grape’s distinct, sour taste makes it a popular choice for jams, jellies, and juices, but aficionados generally consider it an undesirable flavor for wine.

The eventual success of wine grape cultivation in the United States led to the export of North American hybrids to Europe in the mid-1800s. European bot-

anists sought to study and collect these varieties, but unintentionally introduced diseases and pests like the grape phylloxera, devastating the continent’s grape vines. Nearly 90 percent of European vineyards collapsed, and wine production fell to 20 percent of previous levels.

Although hybrids were the source of the invasive species, they were also key in ending the 20-year die-off: Vinis vinifera was grafted on to North American root stock, maintaining the properties of European varieties with the resistance of imported hybrids.

Scientists play a role in contemporary viticulture. While working for a University of Minnesota grape breeding program, Wisconsin native Elmer Swenson developed a number of cold resistant varieties that also produce good wine, releasing many to the public upon his retirement in 1980. More recently, the Northern Grapes Project is a collaboration between a dozen Midwestern and Northeastern universities that seeks to develop new varieties and growing techniques that work well in colder climates.

WISCONSIN ROOTS

Wisconsin-grown grapes have a distinct nature, Atucha said in her lecture.

SUBMITTED PHOTO

AGING ROOM AT WOLLERSHEIM WINERY

“It’s not Vitis vinifera. It’s never going to be Sauvignon Blanc. It’s never going to be Pinot Noir. It’s something different. ...

They’re different and people have to learn how to drink these new wines if they want to drink wine made here from Wisconsin.”

Working with Wisconsin grapes is a welcome challenge, she added. “For me, coming from Chile, and everybody knows exactly how to grow the grapes there ... it’s a great opportunity because I don’t think opportunities like this to grow, to work with something so new come very often.”

Atucha credits the expansion of the wine industry in Wisconsin to the development by the University of Minnesota and Cornell University of grape varieties that “were actually able to resist the cold winters of the northern parts of the United States. Here in Wisconsin – from the 1970(s) all the way to 2010 – the number of commercial vineyards… have grown exponentially due to all of these new varieties.”

“People are doing very interesting and different things,” she said on the growing number of wineries in Wisconsin.

“There’s a lot of variety. They taste different, but they’re good… Almost AMAYA ATUCHA in every county in Wisconsin there’s a vineyard and there are wineries, so if you have the chance and you want to support the wine and the grape industry in Wisconsin, drink wine from Wisconsin.”

This article was originally published on WisContext, which produced the article in a partnership between Wisconsin Public Radio, Wisconsin Public Television, and Cooperative Extension.

It was edited for length. To read the original article and to watch a video lecture by wine expert Amaya Atucha, visit WisContext.org.

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WINE IT UP! WINERIES & WINEMAKERS

Featuring locations in Buffalo, Chippewa, Clark, Dunn, Eau Claire, Jackson, La Crosse, Pepin, Pierce, St. Croix, Trempeleau, Vernon counties, and a few a fair field beyond.

65 Vines 1105 Coulee Trail, Roberts WI • (651) 245-

3400 • info@65vines.com • 65vines.com A family owned vineyard and winery. Visit their grounds, join their Barrel Club, check out their tasting events, try some bottles and even join their “Adopt-A-Vine” program.

Autumn Harvest Winery & Orchard Open May-

October • 19947 Cty Hwy J, Chippewa Falls • (715) 720-1663 • winer@autumnharvestwinery.com • autumnharvestwinery.com Visitors to our orchard and tasting room can enjoy complimentary wine tasting during regular business hours, sample gourmet foods or peruse the gift shop. The patio provides seating to enjoy wine by the glass or bottle, while enjoying one

cool wine stuff happening in the Valley and beyond

of our many Wisconsin cheeses. During the fall season, 17 varieties of apples are available ready picked or pick- your-own, including Honeycrisp. Pick-your-own pumpkins, wagon rides and a FREE corn maze will surely delight kids of all ages.

Bella Vinez Winery W10829 875th Avenue, River Falls •

bellevinez.com A family owned and operated wine destination in beautiful western Wisconsin, this Tuscan-style winery is set directly in the heart of the vineyard. Guests can enjoy a wide range of wine options and a small bite to eat from our brick oven or expansive appetizer menu.

Bemis Bluff Custom Fruit Wines E2960 Hageness Rd,

Eleva • (715) 828-2344 • facebook.com/BemisBluff Winery, vineyard, and wine bar. Enjoy up to 3 samples of their custom fruit wines. Purchase a glass and enjoy all of their wines.

Brambleberry Winery N3684 Claire Rd., Taylor • (608)

525-8001 • info@brambleberrywinery.com • brambleberrywinery.com A small artisanal winery tucked into the beautiful rolling hills of Western Wisconsin, not far from the Great River Road. Also featuring a bed and breakfast.

Branches Winery E6796 Old Line Rd., Westby • (608)

634-9463 • brancheswinery@gmail.com • brancheswinery. com Producing wine from estate-grown grapes. The cheerful and friendly tasting room is surrounded by vineyard views and offers tastings plus wine by the glass or bottle. A menu of appetizers highlights local cheeses and regional delights.

Chateau St. Croix Winery & Vineyard 1998A State

Rd. 87, St. Croix Falls • (715) 483-2556 • chateaustcroix.com From Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Zinfandel, winemaker Troy Chamberlin makes all of his award-winning red wines ‘oh so flavorful’.

Distinct in flavor, bold in color, heavy on the palette, and speaking for themselves.

Danzinger Vineyards & Winery S2015 Grapeview Ln.,

Alma • (608) 685-6000 • winery@danzingervineyards. com • danzingervineyards.com Fifteen acres perched atop the Alma Bluffs in Buffalo County overlooking the Mighty Mississippi River. They use Frontenac, Prairie Star, St Pepin, La Crescent, La Crosse, Frontenac Gris, St Croix and Marquette for their wines, and also have fruit wines available.

Elmaro Vineyard N14756 Delaney Rd., Trempealeau •

(608) 534-6456 • lynita@elmarovineyard.com • elmarovineyard.com Nestled in the Mississippi River Valley, this winery’s unique location makes for beautiful scenery and ideal conditions for cold, hearty vines.

Maiden Rock Winery & Cidery W12266 King Ln., Stock-

holm • (715) 448-3502 • info@maidenrockwinerycidery. com • maidenrockwinerycidery.com Presenting a unique collection of premium hard ciders & fruit wines, from fresh local fruit, flavored by Wisconsin. Their grape wines include Stockholm Red, Stockholm White, and Frontenac Nouveau – as well as a grape-apple blend, Apfelwein.

Munson Bridge Winery & Vineyard W6462 Bridge

Rd., Withee • (715) 229-4501 • sales@munsonbridgewinery.com • munsonbridgewinery.com Located in Wisconsin’s heartland, MBW offers a large variety of fruit wines including raspberry, elderberry, boysenberry, plum, blackberry, crabapple, and cranberry wines, plus maple syrup wine and many other seasonal favorites.

O’Neil Creek Winery Open May-December • 15369

82nd St., Bloomer • (715) 568-2341 • oneilcreekwinery. com O’Neil Creek Winery was built in the heart of the Chippewa Valley by Joe and Dorinda Wynimko featuring an assortment of fruit wines that are crisp and refreshing.

Come and enjoy the scenery along with the relaxing atmosphere on our patio while you have a glass of wine.

River Bend Vineyard & Winery 10439 33rd Ave.,

Chippewa Falls • (715) 720-WINE • riverbendvineyard.

com Visitors to the Tasting Room enjoy complimentary samples and may purchase wine by the glass or by the bottle. Gourmet foods, gifts and accessories for the wine enthusiast are also available. Attendees enjoy the view from a comfortable patio overlooking the vines.

Seven Hawks Vineyard 17 North St., Fountain City

• (608) 687-9463 • sevenhawksvineyards.com Seven Hawks Vineyard includes almost 18,000 northern hybrid grape vines and 500 plum and cherry trees, making them one of the largest vineyards in the upper Midwest.

Wines are local, hand pruned, hand tended, and hand harvested, with free tastings available for walk-ins.

Tenba Ridge Winery N27587 Joe Coulee Rd., Blair

• (608) 525-2413 • tenba@triwest.net • tenbaridgewinery.net From high atop a ridge in rural Trempealeau County sits one of Wisconsin’s most enjoyable winery experiences. Tenba Ridge produces a number of wines that have won national and state awards. Known for its award-winning peach apple wine, blueberry apple, black raspberry apple, and white cranapple.

Vernon Vineyards Winery S3426 Peterson Ln., Viro-

qua • (608) 634-6181 • vernonvineyards.com Vernon Vineyards Winery is 75 acres in Vernon County in Western Wisconsin, and offers lovely vineyard views and a beautiful tasting room. Their 16 wines are made with 100% locally grown Wisconsin grapes and cranberries. Guests can count on a healthy serving of rural Wisconsin hospitality with every sample.

Villa Bellezza Winery 1420 3rd St., Pepin • (715) 442-

8484 • villabellezza.com The winery name – Bellezza, the Italian word for beauty – is inspired by the stunning river bluff drive to the winery along the Mississippi’s historic Great River Road. Visitors may relax in the piazza with small plates and a bottle of wine while listening to the fountain and enjoying the scenery.

Vino in the Valley W3826 450th Ave., Maiden Rock

• (715) 639-6677 • vinointhevalley.com Vino in the Valley is a unique, outdoor dining experience designed to stimulate all your senses. Open Thursday through Sunday, May through September (with additional weekends October-December), enjoy a glass of wine and a pasta dinner among the vines in an outdoor setting nestled in the heart of the Rush River Valley.

WINE FESTIVALS

A selection of wine-focused festivities from around the state. Consult with each festival for exact dates.

Between the Bluffs - Beer, Wine, and Cheese Festival

Southside Fest Grounds, 615 2nd St N, La Crosse • explorelacrosse.com Held in late April. Taste over 200 quality brews poured by distinguished breweries. Experience over 45 types of wine from local and world-famous vintners. Sample and purchase gourmet cheese and other good eats. All attendees receive a souvenir tasting glass.

Food & Wine Festival at Dancing Dragonfly Winery

Dancing Dragonfly Winery, 2013 120th Ave., St. Croix Falls • dancingdragonflywinery.com Held in mid-September. Enjoy the autumn beauty of the St. Croix Valley.

Activities include a wine tasting gazebo, grape stomp, live music all weekend, artisan booths, and food vendors.

Great River Road Wine Trail June Bloom Great

River Road Wine Trail • greatriverroadwinetrail.org/ events/ Held in early June, this special event presents ample opportunities to sample fine food and wine, from Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Iowa. Each winery on the Great River Road Wine Trail will feature their award winning wines and ciders paired with an array of local foods designed with gourmet flair. In addition to local foods, some wineries will also feature live music by local talent.

Kohler Food & Wine Experience Starts at The

American Club Resort, 419 Highland Dr, Kohler • americanclubresort.com Held in mid-October, this is a four-day extravaganza of food, wine and fun. This interactive culinary event features celebrity chefs, libations specialists, wine experts and epicurean enthusiasts from around the world for dynamic culinary seminars, tastings and signature festivities.

Orchard Country Wine and Food Harvest Festivals

Orchard Country Winery and Market, 9197 State Road 42, Fish Creek • The Orchard Country Winery in Door County hosts three yearly wine and harvest festivals.

A winter festival is held in early February, a summer festival in late July, and a fall fest in late September.

Seasonal events and activities are planned for each festival, including wine and food tastings, pick your own fruit, tours, live music, cherry spitting, horse drawn wagons, and more.

Savor Milwaukee Wisconsin Center, Milwaukee •

savormilwaukee.com To be held November 4-6. All of your favorites from Wine & Dine Wisconsin—cheese

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