Dive In

Front cover image: Bobtail squid captured by the late Nigel Wade in Papua New Guinea

LIFE IS IN THE DETAIL

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ORIGINAL DIVING

originaldiving.com

DIVE IN

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34

MAPPING OUT ALPHONSE

12

42

MARINE LIFE

WHERE THE BIG THINGS ARE

74

62

SMALL IS THE NEW BIG

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SAIL AWAY WITH ME

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A FAMILY ADVENTURE IN GOZO

INTRODUCTION

Your first dive: that revolutionary moment when you realise that the impossible is possible. From the sheer thrill of ‘flying’ to witnessing a parallel universe of colourful coral cities and equally enthralling marine life, there’s nothing quite like strapping a tank to your back and blowing bubbles in the deep blue. And with over 71% of the Earth’s surface covered by water, there are endless opportunities to experience something new, whether that’s exploring the wonderful world of macro diving or setting sail to dive the world’s most remote sites by liveaboard; each new dive reveals another of the ocean’s secrets.

To make sure every dive is as special as your first, our crack team of dive instructors, dive masters and marine biologists are on hand to create the ultimate personalised diving adventure. Even better, because we believe that life is in the detail, our portfolio of additional services (including fast-track check-in, security and lounge access at the airport - even if you’re flying economy - and the inside track knowledge of our Concierges in every destination)

52

PSYCHEDELIC CORAL CITIES

come as standard on every Original Diving trip.

After all, everything is possible when Life is in the Detail.

Louisa Fisher, Head of Original Diving

CONTENTS Marine life ................................................................. 12 Mapping out Alphonse, Seychelles ........................ 34

84

THE CONSERVATION CONVERSATION

Where the big things are: Socorro, Mexico ........... 42 Psychedelic coral cities of Papua New Guinea ..... 52 Sail away with me: Indonesia .................................. 62 Small is the new big: The Philippines ..................... 74 The conservation conversation: The Maldives .... 84 A family adventure in Gozo, Malta.......................... 94

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INTRODUCTION

OUR TEAM

After 16 years in business and several lifetimes spent travelling the globe, the Original Travel team of experts (of which Original Diving is part) have developed a deep understanding of our destinations.

We are passionate about these places, taking great pride in our thoughtful approach to planning each and every tailor-made itinerary.

31 15 37 330+

161 17

the number of countries the

the number of countries the

the number of languages spoken

Original Travel team have visited

team have lived or worked in

by the Original Travel team

the number of nationalities represented by the Original

the number of

years combined experience

Original Travel children

working in travel

Travel team

EUROPE

NORTH AMERICA

WHERE OUR CLIENTS HAVE TRAVELLED

5,027

12,624

CARIBBEAN

1,438

SOUTH AMERICA & ANTARCTICA

6,169

AFRICA

10,921

MIDDLE EAST

2,547 9,846 ASIA

INDIAN OCEAN

3,418

AUSTRALASIA

1,452

Since 2003 we have created over 52,000 tailor-made holiday itineraries

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INTRODUCTION

LOCAL CONCIERGES Our global network of Concierges are always on hand to take your holiday experience to the next level. The Concierges live locally, know their destinations inside and out and are a phone call (or WhatsApp, email etc…) away to arrange additional activities. They can:

A DAY IN THE LIVES OF OUR ORIGINAL TRAVEL CONCIERGES

9:00

ICELAND Lizzie and Louisa arrive in Iceland in the middle of a ferocious storm. Concierge Bertrand organises a car upgrade and reminds

Make any last-minute changes to your itinerary

them never to open the car doors with the

Recommend the hottest restaurants (and secure

wind behind (in case the doors are ripped

that elusive table)

off!). He continues to send daily weather

Tip you off about the local haunts most travellers

updates and suggestions along their

never know about

self-drive route, including where to eat

Generally anticipate your every need while away

the best langoustine soup in Iceland!

Original Travel is the only travel company in the UK to offer this service – we believe our local Concierges add another dimension entirely to your trip.

12:30

TANZANIA After getting lost wandering around Stone Town in Zanzibar on his own, Adrian contacts our Concierge Nadia for some recommendations. Nadia arranges a local tour guide, Cassim, to meet him at the hotel the following morning for a walking tour. They visit a spice farm and generally see a side to the city that’s often missed, and Adrian leaves with a deeper understanding of Zanzibar’s rich history.

18:00

INDONESIA After a last-minute decision to do a night dive in Tulamben, Richard and Emily worry they need to rush back to be in time for their dinner reservation. They then see a text from our Concierge Liliane saying, ‘I hear you decided to do a night dive so I moved dinner back by an hour. Take your time and I hope you enjoyed exploring the wonderful reef!’

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INTRODUCTION

OUR SERVICE

We’re called Original Travel for a reason. We’re constantly looking for innovative ways to make your holiday even better.

We like to call it Original Thinking. Book with Original Travel and these services come as standard…

UK DEPARTURE ASSISTANCE Our team will meet you at the airport and fast-track you through

UK AIRPORT LOUNGE

Enjoy the comfort of an airport lounge with free drinks and snacks, even if you’re flying in economy

FAST-TRACK SERVICES In UK airports, we’ll speed you through check-in and security queues

PRE-BOOKED SEATS Avoid airlines’ random seat allocation

for flights booked with Original Travel

LOCAL CONCIERGES Our global network of Concierges live locally, know

their destinations inside and out, and are always on hand

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INTRODUCTION

ONE POINT OF CONTACT

HOLD SEATS

OUR APP

Our destination expert will

While fine-tuning your trip

Access your itinerary,

create a perfectly tailor-made

we’ll be holding airline seats

destination dossier and live

itinerary for you

updates on our app

BORROW A GOPRO

EXPERT GUIDES

Borrow one of our GoPros

Our expert guides will help you

Destination-specific info,

on your diving holidays

really get under the skin

challenges and games for

of your destination

every child (aged 3-10)

FULLY PROTECTED

PERFECT PICKS

24 HOUR HELPLINE Things can go wrong;

Your holiday is fully protected

FUN, FUN, FUN PACKS

We provide you with a

we’re on call 24/7 to offer

destination-specific reading

assistance if required

list and music playlist

To view more about The Detail and relevant Terms and Conditions, visit www.originaldiving.com/why-choose-us

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100% CARBON OFF-SETTING

We are proud to off-set 100% of the carbon generated by our clients’ flights, transfers and car rentals, and have committed, as a group, nearly £5,000,000 since 2010.

For further information see: originaltravel.co.uk/carbon-off-setting

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INTRODUCTION

THE ORIGINAL TRAVEL FOUNDATION We believe travel and tourism should positively affect the people in the destinations we visit.

Our Foundation, created in 2009, supports a number of humanitarian projects in developing countries in Africa, Asia and South America.

Since 2009, nearly £1,150,000 has been invested in the support of over 250 humanitarian projects in 30 countries, focusing on five key areas: Child protection Vocational training Economic development assistance Preservation of cultural and natural heritage Safeguarding the lifestyles of indigenous peoples We also support emergency relief efforts in large natural and humanitarian disasters, spending almost 14% of our annual budget on emergency humanitarian aid.

SUNDARBANS

KENYA

JOSÉ MANUEL PANDO

Our Foundation aims to improve

BOLIVIA

Due to climate change, the number

the living conditions and educational

We’re working to improve the living

of mangroves in India’s Sundarbans

opportunities for the Maasai

conditions of village communities in

region is rapidly declining. Our project

population in Kenya by providing the

the province of José Manuel Pando,

aims to plant more than 16 million

following support: helping to set up

where 98% of the population live in

mangrove trees to protect the local

child sponsorship for schooling and

poverty. We support the ‘Weave the

communities’ homes and farmlands

school materials; providing literacy

Future’ project, which trains local

from flooding and to restore local

classes; conducting awareness

farmers to turn wool into high quality

biodiversity. So far 12,400 acres have

campaigns against FGM and HIV;

local crafts and textile products which

been replanted, impacting 250,000

and building a safe drinking water

they can sell to improve their income.

local people, and counteracting

MASAI MARA

dispensary for a village of 80 people.

WEST BENGAL, INDIA

750,000 tonnes of CO2.

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INTRODUCTION

ABOVE THE WATER When you’re not diving, we also specialise in a wide range of other holiday types. Whether you’re after a family adventure or a last-minute Big Short Break, Original Travel can tailor-make something just for you. For more inspiration visit originaltravel.co.uk/collections

FAMILY

BIG SHORT BREAKS

CITY BREAKS

SABBATICALS

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INTRODUCTION

Top to bottom, left to right:

⚫ A Big Short Break in Marrakech, Morocco ⚫ Hiking in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile ⚫ A family sailing holiday, Greece ⚫ Piazza Maggiore, Bologna, Italy

⚫ Road trip in Utah, USA ⚫ A honeymoon in Rajasthan and Agra, India ⚫ Heli-skiing in Monte Rosa, Italy ⚫ Elephants in the Serengeti National Park, Tanzania ⚫ Villa Mangiacane in Tuscany, Italy

ROAD TRIPS

WINTER SPORTS

PRIVATE HIRE PROPERTIES

SAFARI HONEYMOONS

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MARINE LIFE

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MARINE LIFE

MARINE

LIFE

Whether you’re a lover of the bigger stuff or are in the ‘good things come in small packages’ camp (or, like us, love both), discover a deeper cut of some of the must-sees under the sea. +44 (0) 20 3911 0430 | 13

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MARINE LIFE

WHALE SHARKS There’s nothing quite like seeing a fish the size of a bus to cut you down to size. And yet, these docile dotted giants capture the hearts of divers the world over.

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MARINE LIFE

IN NUMBERS

6,000

litres

The volume of water a whale shark can process through its gills in an hour

ONE BIG FISH

ONE OF A KIND

It’s common knowledge that the humble

Much like a human’s fingerprint, each

whale shark is the biggest fish in the

whale shark’s distinctive stripe and spot

ocean, but the largest officially recorded

pattern is unique to the individual. This

(by the boffins at The Guinness Book of

allows scientists to identify, track and

Records) weighed a humongous 21.5

monitor whale sharks and thus create

tons and was 42ft long, which is, indeed,

population models for international

about the size of a bus.

conservation efforts.

“The whale sharks in the Galapagos were the biggest I’ve ever seen. Research is still underway to discover why they congregate here during the summer months, but 90% appear to be pregnant” Amy Cooper, Original Diving Specialist

3,000

The number of whale sharks tiny ‘teeth’, but as filter feeders they don’t use them, instead filtering plankton through their gills (as well as squid, krill and small fish)

100

>

countries

Whale sharks have been spotted in tropical and warm temperate waters around the world, but tend to congregate seasonally in places where coral and fish spawning occur, such as at Australia’s Ningaloo Reef from March to April

70

years

The average whale shark lifespan, although they can live to 100

3

mph

A whale shark’s average speed.

They swim by swaying their bodies from side to side while other sharks just use their tails

MYSTERIES OF THE DEEP

UNDER THREAT

Whale sharks are ovoviviparous, meaning

Whale sharks are currently listed as

that they produce eggs which hatch

endangered, with the main threat to

internally before being born live. Amazingly,

these gentle giants being the growth of

this was only discovered in 1995 after a

unregulated and unsustainable fisheries

pregnant female was caught off the coast

to supply international trade demands

of Taiwan – no-one has ever actually

for shark fins, skin, meat and liver oil.

witnessed a whale shark giving birth.

< 10%

The estimated number of whale sharks that survive to adulthood. After giving birth, the mother will leave her young to fend for themselves

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MARINE LIFE

HAMMERHEADS Whether witnessing a solitary silhouette or a school of hundreds, these peculiar-headed species are the gold standard of sightings in any diver’s log book, yet they are also some of the most elusive. Luckily, we know the best places to spot them.

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MARINE LIFE

SCHOOL OF THOUGHT

SURROUND VISION

While many sharks prefer solitude,

Thanks to the positioning of their eyes

scalloped hammerheads can be found

on the tips of their heads it is impossible

in schools numbering multiple hundreds.

to sneak up on a hammerhead. They have

While the exact reason is unknown,

360-degree vision, allowing them to scan

scientists speculate that it might

an area more quickly than other sharks.

relate to their migration patterns or

BORN READY

mating habits.

Hammerheads are viviparous, meaning

HAMMER-TIME

pups develop while still in the uterus

A hammerhead’s oddly shaped head isn’t

and feed on the mother’s placenta

just for decoration, they are equipped

until they are ready to be born. A great

with sensors to help scan the seabed

hammerhead’s gestation period generally

for food, their meal of choice being

lasts 11 months, after which they can

stingrays. Once they find them they

give birth to a litter of anything between

pin them down with their heads and

12 and 40 pups.

then eat them bite by bite.

“There’s nothing quite like looking up at the silhouettes of hundreds of scalloped hammerheads out in the blue.

They are a circumglobal migratory species, coming together in these huge schools in areas such as Malpelo, Socorro, the Galapagos, Cocos and the Red Sea” Amy Cooper, Original Diving Specialist

IN NUMBERS

1,000

lbs

The average weight of a fully grown great hammerhead

30

years

Their average life span

20

ft

The maximum length of a fully- grown great hammerhead

17

attacks

In the last 450 years, none of which have been fatal. Falling coconuts, on the other hand, cause about 150 deaths annually

9

The number of known hammerhead species, namely winghead, scalloped bonnethead, whitefin, scalloped, scoophead, great, bonnethead, smalleye and smooth

4

The number of hammerhead species that are currently threatened with extinction.

Humans are their biggest threat

1

The bonnethead hammerhead is the only shark species capable of asexual reproduction

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MARINE LIFE

CORAL Picture this: a kaleidoscope of colourful corals, from gargantuan brain corals to gently swaying fan corals, haloed by schools of dancing anthias and preened by peckish parrotfish. An olive ridley turtle might even glide past. These are the cities of the ocean.

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MARINE LIFE

IN NUMBERS

500

m years

The oldest coral fossils.

Although early corals are different from those we see today, corals are - by far - the oldest animals in existence

1,400

miles

The length of the Great Barrier Reef, the world’s longest coral reef

A COLOURFUL COMMUNITY

THE SANDS OF TIME

Corals are actually colonies of tiny

Best not to think about it too much,

animals called polyps that live in the

but the white sandy beaches that

warm shallows of coastal waters around

characterise the world’s most paradisal

the world. While polyps are actually

destinations are actually made of

translucent, they have a symbiotic

parrotfish poo. Parrotfish nibble on

partnership with zooxanthellae algae,

corals to digest the algae, excreting

which gives them their vibrant colours.

the remaining coral as sand – with a single parrotfish producing as much

THE UNDERWATER AMAZON

as 200 pounds of sand a year.

Rivalling the Amazon rainforest, coral reefs are some of the most biodiverse

ADAPTING TO SURVIVE

ecosystems on the planet. Home to

The coral in Raja Ampat in Indonesia

25% of all marine life they are a source

is thought to have developed a greater

of food and shelter, and a nursery for

resilience to water temperature change,

a plethora of juvenile marine animals

protecting itself from the bleaching we

which later make their way to the big

so sadly see in other areas of the world.

blue world beyond.

“Apo Island in the Philippines has been a protected marine sanctuary since 1982 and at present the island is home to over 400 species of corals, which can be seen by snorkellers and divers alike. Diving there you can appreciate the kaleidoscopic reefs and imagine how diving used to be before the effects of coral bleaching – it is quite the sight to behold” India Tyndall, Original Diving Specialist

20–32ºc

The optimum water temperature range for corals

8

inches

The rate at which the fastest growing coral - staghorn coral - grows a year

5

inches

3

types

The diameter of the largest coral polyps, which are found in mushroom corals. Typically, coral polyps are less than half an inch in diameter

Fringing reefs grow in shallow coastal waters; barrier reefs are large continuous reefs separated from land by a lagoon; atolls grow on top of seamounts, resulting in ring-shaped reefs near the sea’s surface

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MARINE LIFE

HUMPBACK WHALES Whether witnessing the casual fl ick of a tail or a gravity-defying breach, the tenderness of a mother leading her calf or the soothing serenades during mating season, to dive or snorkel with a humpback is one of life’s magical moments.

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MARINE LIFE

IN NUMBERS

“While on a kayaking trip in South Africa’s Plettenberg Bay, I found myself alongside a humpback whale trying to intrude on an intimate moment between two southern right whales! The humpback was enjoying a pit stop while on its way to Mozambique to breed and calve” Lizzie Barry, Original Diving Specialist

80,000

The estimated global population of humpback whales

5,000

miles

How far some humpback populations migrate each year – one of the longest migrations of all species

90%

The amount of time spent beneath the surface

A RICH REPERTOIRE

EFFICIENT EATERS

Providing a never-ending symphony

Humpbacks are one of 12 species of

in the sea, males will sing complex,

baleen whale, characterised by their

wide-ranging songs for hours on end,

filter feeding plates and two blowholes.

which scientists believe is used to

To eat, they take huge gulps of water

communicate with other males and

which is filtered through the baleens and

attract a mate.

blown back out through the blowholes, leaving the fish behind for digestion.

TEAM PLAYERS Humpback whales know the value of

BIG WINGS

teamwork. Hunting in groups, they will

While this gentle giant derives its

blow bubbles to herd fish into a tight

common name from the distinctive hump

ball ripe for the taking, eating as much

on its back, the humpback’s scientific

as 3,000 pounds a day. This hunting

name Megaptera (meaning ‘big-winged’

technique is known as bubble-netting.

in Greek) is due to its huge pectoral fins.

60

ft

The length of a fully-grown humpback whale

50

years

Their average lifespan

40

tonnes

The whopping weight of a fully-grown humpback whale

5

years

The age a female humpback reaches maturity, males reach maturity at seven years of age

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MARINE LIFE

MANTA RAYS Meet the ocean’s greatest acrobats.

Seeing a manta ray swoop, flip and ‘fly’ through the deep blue is a guaranteed showstopper on any dive.

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MARINE LIFE

SPOT THE DIFFERENCE

BRAINIACS

Manta rays can be individually identified

Extraordinarily brainy (literally – they

by the unique spots on their bellies.

have the largest brains of all fish), manta

Using photo identification, scientists

rays are the first fish to have passed the

are then able to see where they have

mirror test, which is widely used to study

previously been recorded, which helps

self-awareness. Human children tend to

with conservation programmes.

fail this test until they are at least oneand-a-half years old.

PLASTIC NOT-SOFANTASTIC

JUST THE TWO OF US

Although the full effects of plastic

There are currently two species of

pollution on manta rays and other filter

manta ray identified - reef mantas

feeders is still unknown, microplastics

and giant oceanic mantas, although

can block nutrient absorption and

scientists are studying populations

damage a manta’s digestive tract.

in different oceans to see if there

Scientists also speculate that plastic

are further separate species.

accumulation over decades could lead to altered growth and development, and reduced reproductive capacity.

IN NUMBERS

4.8

m years

While it’s estimated that manta rays evolved 20 million years ago, the fossil records of true mantas date back to about 4.8 million years

50

years

Their average lifespan

60

lbs

The weight of small fish and plankton consumed per day

25-30

The estimated number of male mantas that join the ‘mating train’ – following the female in a line until she picks one to mate with

21

ft

The average wingspan of a fully-grown oceanic manta ray, while reef mantas grow to around 15ft

“In nearly 20 years of diving, my best underwater experience still has to be finding myself in the middle of a manta feeding frenzy in Hanifaru Bay in the Maldives. Between June and November, the tide and current turn this small bay into a plankton soup, attracting hundreds of mantas who perform the most incredible underwater acrobatics” Louisa Fisher, Head of Original Diving

2

tonnes

The weight of a fully-grown oceanic manta ray, while reef mantas weigh around one-and-a-half tonnes

2

The number of pups, born every other year, per female

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MARINE LIFE

TURTLES From the patter of tiny turtle fl ippers as they race to the sea, to spotting an adult casually cruising through the blue and, finally, seeing the determined digging of a mother laying her eggs, we can help you see the full circle of life of these relaxed reptiles.

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MARINE LIFE

IN NUMBERS

100

m years

Sea turtles are some of the world’s oldest creatures

10,000

miles

The distance a leatherback turtle can travel in a year

THE CIRCLE OF LIFE

THE HUMAN THREAT

From the moment they leave the beach

Six out of the seven species of giant

as hatchlings, turtles will not touch land

turtle are now classified as endangered,

again until females return to the very

due to them being caught as by-catch

same beach to hatch their own young

(particularly in longline and purse seine

which, depending on the species, could

fishing), to habitat loss and consumption

be between ten and 50 years later.

of their eggs and meat.

Males never return to land.

SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST

SEX – IT’S A TEMPERATURE THING

While a female will lay up to 150 eggs

The temperature of the sand will

every two to three years, very few will

determine the hatchling’s gender. Warmer

make it to adulthood. Whether running

temperatures will generate females while

the gauntlet from nest to water or

cooler temperatures generate males.

facing the predators of the open ocean,

While the optimum temperature for an

only around one hatchling in every

equal ratio differs between species and

thousand survives.

location, climate change has seen an increasing number of females.

“On a charter trip in Raja Ampat the crew treated us to a surprise candlelight barbecue on a secluded beach. Half way through our feast, a weary green turtle heaved her way up the beach to dig a hole and lay her eggs under the stars. This was the exact same beach she had struggled to the water from as a hatchling herself, some 20 years ago, and the fi rst time she’d made landfall since!”

India Tyndall, Original Diving Specialist

660– 1,100

lbs

The weight of a fully-grown leatherback turtle, the largest ever recorded weighed 1,980 pounds

1,000

mtrs

The depth leatherback turtles can dive in search of jellyfish. Unlike other species, leatherbacks lack a rigid breastbone and their leathery shell absorbs nitrogen, reducing decompression issues

60

bones

A turtle’s shell is actually part of its skeleton and includes its rib cage and spine. The bones are covered by plates made of keratin (the same substance as humans fingernails)

7

species

Which are leatherback, green sea, loggerhead, hawksbill, kemp’s ridley, olive ridley and flatback

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MARINE LIFE

SHARKS Thanks to Jaws, sharks are the most iconic yet most misunderstood creatures beneath the waves. And as lovers of all things subaqueous we’re going to hop aboard our soap box and spout our merry manifesto in support of these mysterious, magnificent hunters.

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MARINE LIFE

ELECTRO-CITY

JUST KEEP SWIMMING

Sharks are literally wired for hunting.

For many sharks, movement is a

Using electrosensitive organs called

matter of life and death as they need

(rather gloriously) ampullae of Lorenzini,

to continually pass water over their

sharks are able to detect small electrical

gills to breathe. Nurse and lemon sharks

pulses from the muscle movements

are two of the exceptions as they have

of other organisms, enabling them to

powerful neck muscles that can pump

detect prey. Some experts believe this

water over their gills while stationary.

electro-sensitivity also allows them to navigate the globe.

A WALKING SHARK The epaulette shark, or ‘walking shark’,

A SHARK’S ARMOUR

is able to use its pectoral and pelvic fins

A shark’s skin is made up of miniature

to walk on reefs. Paired with its ability

interlocked teeth called dermal denticles

to survive for short periods of time with

which bristle like fur and push water

little or no oxygen, this means it can

down the shark with less drag, allowing

hunt in shallow pools, even at low tides.

these predators to move quickly and quietly – the ultimate silent killer.

IN NUMBERS

450

m years

The amount of time sharks have been patrolling the world’s oceans

100

m

The estimated number of sharks killed by the fishing industry every year

3,000

ft

The distance at which sharks can hear their prey, despite their ears being inside their heads

440

species

Currently identified, however new species are being discovered almost every year

315

teeth

Across seven rows. Sharks lose their teeth regularly, going through as many as 30,000 in their lifetime

“I’ve never seen so many sharks as in Socorro [off Mexico]. I saw six species (whale, silky, whitetip, silvertip, Galapagos and hammerhead) and lots of them on every dive. Socorro forms part of a large migration corridor for sharks and mantas in the Pacific and the islands are thought to be such an aggregation point due to the nutrient rich waters.”

Lauren Nelson, Original Diving Specialist

10

ft

The height a great white shark can propel itself out of the water to catch its prey

3½

years

The estimated gestation period of a frilled shark – needless to say it is the longest pregnancy of all shark species

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MARINE LIFE

NUDIBRANCHS For the uninitiated, the idea of marine slugs might conjure up images of slimy green blobs plaguing reefs, but this couldn’t be further from the truth.

Psychedelic and all-round marvellous, nudibranchs are some of the ocean’s most interesting inhabitants.

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MARINE LIFE

YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT

HERMAPHRODITES

Nudibranchs derive their vibrant colours

Nudibranchs possess both male and

from the food they eat. The distinctive

female reproductive organs. When

hues are then used as camouflage or

mating they perform a dance-like

even as repellent because some retain

courtship before fertilising each other,

the toxins they ingest. Blue dragon

then both lay eggs in a ribbon-like

nudibranchs, for instance, eat the

spiral which can vary from one egg

stinging cells of Portuguese man o’ war

to well over 25 million.

and store them as ammunition.

SOME ARE VEGAN… SOME AREN’T

SENSE OF SURROUNDINGS Known as rhinophores, the two horns located on a nudibranch’s head are

Some nudibranchs are solar-powered,

chemical receptors used to find food

harvesting algae from coral and then

and a mate. Like a tortoise’s head, they

storing it to derive energy from light

can be withdrawn into their bodies for

via photosynthesis. And the others?

protection.

Well, some are cannibals.

“I like to think of nudibranchs as the ‘jewels of the ocean’, coming in all the colours of the rainbow. My favourite dive site for nudibranchs is Nudi Falls in the Lembeh Strait, where I once counted 11 different species, including my personal favourite, the bright purple Hypselodoris bullockii” Louisa Fisher, Head of Original Diving

IN NUMBERS

20

>

million

The number of eggs laid by certain types of nudibranchs, generally in coiled ribbons.

Most nudibranchs don’t live longer than a year, so laying this number of eggs is essential

3,000

The estimated total number of species worldwide, although new species are still being discovered

2,500

mtr

The deepest, in metres, that a nudibranch has been recorded, although they are most abundant in shallow waters

200

species

Of nudibranchs have been discovered in Northern Sulawesi’s Lembeh Strait, to date

20

inches

The largest nudibranch ever recorded, the Spanish Dancer, found in the Red Sea

1

week –

1

year

The lifespan of various species of nudibranchs

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MARINE LIFE

WHERE TO GO WHEN DIVING It’s time to don your mask and dive in to explore some of our favourite dive destinations across the world. originaldiving.com/collections

MONTH

REGION

COUNTRY Tanzania

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Africa

Mozambique

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Madagascar

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Indonesia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Philippines

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Asia

Australasia & Pacific Islands

Australia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

French Polynesia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Fiji

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Papua New Guinea

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Micronesia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Palau

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Caribbean

Caribbean

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Iceland

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Europe

Azores

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Gozo & Malta

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Indian Ocean

Latin America

Middle East

KEY

BEST TIME T0 GO

Maldives

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seychelles

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Belize

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Mexico

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Costa Rica

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Ecuador & Galapagos

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Egypt

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Oman

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

DECENT TIME TO GO

NOT A GOOD TIME T0 GO

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MARINE LIFE

MARINE WILDLIFE With so many dive destinations across the globe, it can be difficult to work out where best to see particular varieties of marine life. So here is a (by no means exhaustive) guide to some of the most notable marine life. originaldiving.com/collections/tribes

SPECIES

COUNTRY

Whales

Whale Sharks

Hammerheads

Manta and Mobula Rays

Turtle hatching

MONTH

Australia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

French Polynesia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Mexico

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Mozambique

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Australia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Galapagos

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Indonesia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Maldives

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Mexico

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Mozambique

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Tanzania

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Bahamas

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Cocos Islands

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

French Polynesia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Galapagos

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Australia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Azores

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Galapagos

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Indonesia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Maldives

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Mexico

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Mozambique

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Australia

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Caribbean

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Maldives

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Mexico

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Mozambique

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Oman

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Tanzania

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

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MARINE LIFE

A SPECIES SPECTRUM

Top to bottom, left to right:

From the massive to the minute, here are some more of our favourite marine species to grace the ocean...

⚫ Anemonefish eggs, Southern Red Sea, Egypt

⚫ Pom pom crab, Alor, Indonesia ⚫ Ocean sunfish (Mola Mola), East Bali, Indonesia ⚫ Mandarin fish mating ritual, Milne Bay, Papua New Guinea ⚫ Porcelain crab, Maldives

32 | originaldiving.com

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JUST ONE OF OUR MANY ADDITIONAL SERVICES...

BORROW A GO-PRO Borrow one of our GoPros on your diving holidays

To find out more about The Detail and relevant Terms and Conditions, see page six or visit www.originaldiving.com/why-choose-us

OD-2019-DM-Book.indb 33

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FEATURE | ALPHONSE

MAPPING OUT ALPHONSE If you were to study a map, we bet our bottom dollar you wouldn’t spot Alphonse or the Aldabra group of islands. And yet these remote atolls in the Seychelles, with their wild, uninhabited islands and virtually virgin waters, have quietly played host to some of the most iconic marine species to grace the oceans.

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ALPHONSE | FEATURE

A bird’s-eye view of Alphonse

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FEATURE | ALPHONSE

AMAZING ALPHONSE Some of the first scuba exploration was conducted in the Aldabra Group (by Jacques-Yves Cousteau, no less), and with world-class dive sites still being discovered, not much has changed in the years since.

As a rule, the more remote you go

Diving here means being submerged

And while the regular sightings are

the ‘fishier’ a place becomes, and

in a blizzard of marine life, from

extraordinary in themselves, it’s the

the Aldabra Group in the Seychelles -

plumes of barracudas and colourful

surprise encounters that truly trump,

located some 700 miles south of the

clouds of anthias to dogtooth tunas,

from thresher sharks at 14 metres

main island of Mahé and comprised of

wahoos, dorados and sailfish, to

to a pod of over 1,000 melon-headed

the Cosmoledo and Aldabra Atolls, as

name but a few. Focus your eyes

whales; glimpsing a passing

well as the islands of Assumption and

beyond the buzz and glimpse

hammerhead at the beginning of

Astove - is about as remote as you can

impressive coral colonies - some

a dive to climbing back on the boat

get. Alphonse, further north but still

several thousand years old - that

by a breaching humpback whale.

some 250 miles south of Mahé and

flourish in gardens and cling to

None of this is guaranteed, of course,

located in the Amirante Islands, is

dramatic drop-offs set against

but the real rule here is to expect

wonderfully remote too.

the deep blue.

the unexpected.

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ALPHONSE | FEATURE

Cosmoledo Island Mahé Alphonse Island 250 miles

30 miles 397 miles Astove Island

A map of Alphonse island and the remote Aldabra Group.

NB: Not to scale

A large tawny nurse shark photographed by our client Horacio

“During the trip we saw humpback whales from the surface; dived with dolphins; saw bull, nurse, grey, black tip and guitar sharks and swam with more turtles than I could count. Not only did we see the first whale shark they’d ever seen at Alphonse, but we were treated to two on one dive. It was like the Maldives on steroids” Horacio, a happy client +44 (0) 20 3911 0430 | 37

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FEATURE | ALPHONSE

While you’re here, WHY NOT… In a place this beautiful, we can think of worse ways to spend surface intervals…

1

SWIM WITH THE USAIN BOLT OF FISH Set sail from Alphonse into the deep blue to swim with the fastest fish in the ocean,

the sailfish. Attracted to a lure trailed from the back of the boat, you can snorkel with these magnificent fish as they rocket past, spectacular dorsal fins raised, at lightning speeds. At 70 miles per hour, it might be hard to keep up.

2

REEL IT IN This is one of the world’s premier destinations for saltwater fly fishing, so head out with an expert guide to

catch (using barbless hooks) bluefin trevallies, permit, milkfish and giant trevallies (which you might remember from Blue Planet II), before releasing them back into the wild.

3

BECOME A CONSERVATIONIST Conservation runs through the veins of the Seychelles, so whether you’re

turtle tracking or surveying manta rays, feeding giant tortoises or planting mangroves, you can develop a deeper understanding of this region’s natural wonders while helping protect and preserve its extraordinary biodiversity.

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ALPHONSE | FEATURE

4

CASTAWAY FOR A DAY Become gloriously marooned on the uninhabited island of St Francois, exploring mangroves for exotic birds

and seeking out nursing sicklefin lemon sharks in the shallows. As evening approaches, snorkel with manta rays as you cruise back to Alphonse.

5

CONTEMPLATE THE UNIVERSE Benefit from being the only people staying at the splendidly isolated

Cosmoledo Eco-lodge on Wizard Island, the only lodge in the atoll and entirely devoid of any light pollution. This is a real Robinson Crusoe experience.

6

THE DAZZLING DISPLAYS OF BIRDS Over 250 different species of bird, both migratory and

endemic, have been officially recorded across the protected lagoons, flats, and coconut and mangrove forests of the Outer Islands. Armed with binoculars and an eagle-eyed guide, spot red-footed boobies, Madagascar turtle-doves and so much more.

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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...

...FOR ORIGINAL DIVING If you like to spin the globe, roll the dice or step into the unknown (you get the gist), awaken your sense of adventure with these bucket list dive destinations.

ICELAND

THE AZORES, PORTUGAL SOLOMON ISLANDS

If we told you it’s possible to travel

An archipelago of nine wild islands

Located at the far extremes of the

from America to Europe in seconds

scattered across the mid-Atlantic,

eastern corner of the Pacific Ocean’s

you’d think us barmy. But not in

the Azores are a cross-over point for

Coral Triangle, the Solomon Islands

Iceland. Home to one of the most

both ecological zones and seasonal

boast a staggering variety of corals,

original dive sites in the world, Silfra

migrations, with over 100 seamounts

marine species and world-class dive

is a freshwater fissure formed by the

providing an oasis in the deep ‘desert’

sites, yet this remains one of the least

divergence of the North American and

of the subtropical north Atlantic.

dived areas in the world. Set sail

Eurasian tectonic plates. The site is

Consequently, these islands have

on an epic liveaboard cruise to the

filled with glacial meltwater that has

emerged as a magnet for marine life,

most remote corners to dive over

been filtered, over hundreds of years,

and if you’re lucky enough to get to

supersized, ancient corals, steep

through the underground porous

the sites 40 nautical miles offshore you

walls and WWII Japanese wrecks,

volcanic rock, resulting in water so

might spot whales, mantas and blue or

spotting the full spectrum of marine

fresh and clear that visibility often

mako sharks. If the sea is too rough (this

life – from pelagic fish and predators

exceeds 100 metres.

is in the mid-Atlantic, after all) the local

to reef species and macro life galore.

sites are also some of the best in Europe.

All without another soul in sight.

40 | originaldiving.com

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JUST ONE OF OUR MANY ADDITIONAL SERVICES...

FAST-TRACK SERVICES At UK airports, we’ll whisk you through check-in and the security queues

To find out more about The Detail and relevant Terms and Conditions, see page six or visit www.originaldiving.com/why-choose-us

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05/04/2019 11:29

FEATURE | SOCORRO

WHERE THE

BIG THINGS ARE

There are very few places in the world where you are virtually guaranteed to dive with dolphins, both species of manta ray, enormous bait balls and a staggering ten species of shark.

And there’s only one place where, depending on the month, spotting whale sharks, humpback whales and hundreds of hammerheads is a very real possibility. Introducing the Revillagigedo Archipelago (better known as Socorro).

42 | originaldiving.com

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SOCORRO | FEATURE

A humpback whale disappears into the deep, captured by Jorge Hauser

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FEATURE | SOCORRO

San Benedicto Island, captured by Rodrigo Friscione

A FISHY AFFAIR Whirlpools of bigeye jacks, leather

that make up the Revillagigedo

bass and Creole-fish swarm around

Archipelago, North America’s largest

a central rocky outcrop where

marine reserve. Located some 280

octopuses and moray eels hunt in

miles south of the tip of Mexico’s Baja

cracks and crevices. Bottlenose

California, it takes a full day’s voyage

dolphins click and cruise in the

to reach the archipelago, and while the

surrounding current while lazy

islands themselves aren’t much to look

whitetip reef sharks rest on its ledges.

at, beneath the waves is where the

Giant oceanic manta rays swoop

magic happens. A fortunate conflation

inches above to feel your escaping

of currents has resulted in this region

bubbles tickle their underbellies while

having some of the highest biomass

a whale shark slinks into the deep.

of marine life per square mile in the

And all this going on to a thunderous

world. In fact, this corner of the globe

soundtrack of white, foamy waves

is so special that Mission Blue, the

crashing into the pinnacle. Just your

conservation brainchild of legendary

average dive in Socorro, then.

Oceanographer Sylvia Earle, declared

Hidden in the depths of the remote

Clockwise from above: A school of silkies, captured

by Rodrigo Friscione A bottlenose dolphin posing A diver’s bubbles tickle a manta’s tummy

it a ‘hope spot’, imperative to the

Eastern Tropical Pacific Ocean,

health of the ocean. Teeming with life,

Socorro is the largest of four islands

this is where the big fish gather.

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SOCORRO | FEATURE

EL BOILER WHERE: San Benedicto Island WHAT: With steep sides

resembling furrowed concrete, this large extinct volcano rises dramatically from a 50 metre shelf to within two metres (at low tide) of the ocean surface TO SEE: This is the best site in the world for closeup interactions with giant pacific mantas. Not to mention pods of playful resident bottlenose dolphins (insider tip: mimic their movements and they will come in for a closer look). Peer into the big blue and you might, depending on the month, also spot whale sharks and schooling scalloped hammerheads alongside the regulars (Galapagos sharks, whitetips, silkies… the list goes on).

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FEATURE | SOCORRO

Roca Partida

ROCA PARTIDA WHERE: 93 miles south-west of San Benedicto Island WHAT : A solitary lump of rock rising

from a plateau of 80 metres, jutting 32 metres above the crashing waves in the shape of a humpback whale tail TO SEE: A magnet for marine life, here you’ll see enormous schools of pelagic fish including yellowfin tuna and wahoo alongside scalloped hammerheads, whitetips, silkies, Galapagos sharks, giant mantas, dolphins and even humpbacks passing through from Alaska (from January to April)

46 | originaldiving.com

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SOCORRO | FEATURE

CLARIÓN ISLAND APPROX 180 MILES San Benedicto Island

Roca Partida Island

REVILLAGIGEDO NATIONAL PARK

CALIFORNIA CURRENT

MEXICO

Socorro Island

EQUITORIAL CURRENT

PACIFIC OCEAN

AVERAGE WATER TEMP

25°C

AVERAGE VISIBILITY

DIVE QUALIFICATION

27M

ADVANCED

Socorro Island Season ...................

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Largest biomass of animals...........

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Mantas..................................

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Bottlenose dolphins.............

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Whale sharks........................

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

BEST TIME TO DIVE

Humpback whales ...............

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

DECENT TIME TO DIVE

Baitball Season....................

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

NOT A GOOD TIME TO DIVE

Up to 10 species of shark ..

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

WHAT TO SEE WHEN

CONVERGENCE OF CURRENTS

MARINE STATS

A HOPE SPOT

The four islands are located where

At least 366 species of fish - including

Covering 57,000 square miles, the

the cold waters of the California

26 endemic species and 37 species of

Revillagigedo Archipelago is North

Current converge with the warm

sharks and rays - call this area home,

America’s largest ocean reserve.

waters of the North Equatorial

including one of the world’s largest

Designated in 2017, the marine park

Current, creating upwellings that

populations of oceanic manta rays. Not

safeguards biodiversity by boosting

bring nutrients from the bottom of

to forget the migratory species (think:

ecotourism and prohibiting fishing,

the ocean to the surface.

whales, more sharks and tuna) that

mining and new hotels.

also pass by to rest, feed and breed.

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FEATURE | SOCORRO

While you’re here, WHY NOT… Make the most of everything that marvellous Mexico has to offer...

1

SURF’S UP IN OAXACA While Oaxaca is most famous for its Day of the Dead festival and handicrafts, the golden beaches of Puerto Escondido are

a must-visit for those wanting to learn to surf. Or simply sit back and watch the pros mastering the towering barrels and crashing waves of Playa Zicatela, immortalised in surfer folklore.

2

TACO-BOUT MEXICO CITY Whether tucking into a road side delicacy or indulging in the gourmet, fine-dining scene, Mexico City has the

full spread of culinary adventures. Eat your way around the city, one taco at a time, or pick up fresh goods at the local market before learning the tricks of the trade during a Mexican cookery class.

3

MEXICO’S GRAND CANYON Despite being a whopping four times larger and 1000ft deeper than the Grand Canyon, Copper Canyon remains

somewhat off-the-radar. Hop on the Chihuahua al Pacifico railway as it winds its way from the Sea of Cortez up through the Sierra Madre Mountains to Posadas Barrancas, which, on the rim of the canyon, is the perfect base to explore.

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SOCORRO | FEATURE

4

MEXICO’S SECRET RUINS Out-derring-do Indiana Jones by venturing along the winding Usumacinta River - the natural

border between Mexico and Guatemala - deep into the mist-shrouded jungles of southernly Chiapas.

There, visit the ancient vine-covered ruins of Yaxchilan in delightful solitude, apart from the ear-splitting calls of the resident howler monkeys.

5

DISCOVER THE UNDERWORLD The Mayans believed that Yucatan’s cenotes (sinkholes) were portals to the

underworld. While you won’t encounter any human sacrifices nowadays, diving these freshwater sinkholes is one of the most exhilarating experiences imaginable - from labyrinths of stalagmites and stalactites to the shards of turquoise light that pierce the crystal-clear water - we like to think of them more as stairways to heaven.

6

THE WORLD’S AQUARIUM Affectionately referred to as ‘the aquarium of the world’ by none other than Jacques Cousteau, marine

encounters in the Sea of Cortez are legendary, whether dodging playful sea lions, witnessing

pods of orcas hunting or seasonal snorkelling with hundreds of mobula rays. Head out with our partners, who are all-round marine whisperers and the only operators to offer trips to snorkel with orcas.

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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...

...FOR EPIC MARINE ENCOUNTERS

FRENCH POLYNESIA

THE GALAPAGOS, ECUADOR

Swimming with humpback whales regularly tops the

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, chances

bucket list of divers and non-divers alike, but there

are you’ve heard of the Galapagos archipelago.

are only a handful of places in the world to swim with

Immortalised by Darwin’s On the Origin of Species,

these gentle giants, so it’s also one of the rarest

this chain of islands scattered across the equator

experiences. Luckily, humpbacks like to summer in

in the Pacific Ocean is frequented by just about all

turquoise lagoons, so if you visit Moorea between

the big fish – from hammerheads and manta rays

July and early November you can swim with them as

to whale sharks (June to November), as well as fur

they mate and calve, before island-hopping across

seals, sea lions, marine iguanas and Galapagos

French Polynesia to dive some of the world’s most

penguins - among the 20% of species here which are

famous sites. (You, not the humpbacks).

endemic. Set sail to the dive sites around Wolf and Darwin islands and prepare to fill log-books two-fold.

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SOCORRO | FEATURE

You’ll want to pack a couple of logbooks for these mad marine destinations…

COCOS ISLAND, COSTA RICA

BAHAMAS

Cocos Island’s aquatic calling card is sharks,

While the Bahamas might conjure wondrous images

sharks and more sharks, but especially scalloped

of pirates and booty, this archipelago harbours much

hammerheads, which you can witness in their

more valuable treasure in the form of the Caribbean’s

hundreds at the seamount Bajo Alcyone. Located

best shark diving. Whether diving with great

340 miles off Costa Rica in the Pacific, this site

hammerhead, bull and nurse sharks just 8m down

is only accessible by liveaboard, but it’s worth

(meaning longer bottom time) in Bimini, or spotting the

any seasickness to see the silhouettes of endless

striped predators at ‘Tiger Beach’ in Grand Bahama

hammerheads against the deep blue. For a truly

and Caribbean reef sharks carefully conserved by the

original experience, venture down 300 metres to

team at Stuart’s Cove on Nassau, the Bahamas is

‘The Wall’ in a deep sea submersible to seek out

wiping away any Jaws-inspired misconceptions about

the elusive prickly shark.

these misunderstood marine marvels.

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FEATURE | PAPUA NEW GUINEA

PSYCHEDELIC CORAL CITIES OF

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PAPUA NEW GUINEA | FEATURE

A marine sponge with crinoids

The best way to immerse yourself in a new destination is through its cities. These smorgasbords of exotic sights and sounds are brought alive by the intoxicating buzz of the local residents. Now picture a multicoloured marine city, where all walks (read: swims) of life survive and thrive surrounded by magnificent architectural wonders magnified against an ocean backdrop; these are the coral cities of the big blue. +44 (0) 20 3911 0430 | 53

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FEATURE | PAPUA NEW GUINEA

A KALEIDOSCOPE of CORALS Some of the very finest underwater

up of barrier reefs, coral walls,

heart of their communities, these

metropolises can be found in Papua

fringing reefs and sea grass beds,

magnificent building blocks harbour

New Guinea. These spectacular coral

so diving here is a psychedelic

clouds of equally kaleidoscopic reef

colonies enjoy a prime location within

experience.

fish, large nudibranchs with skirts

the Coral Triangle, but due to their

Drift past slender branches of

of eggs, spirals of a thousand

remoteness these bustling

towering red whip corals, knobbly

barracuda, sharks and turtles, and

underwater jungles have remained

blue sponges and jagged stag corals,

all in 40-plus metre visibility. And

largely unexplored. The good news

flower-like elephant ears, giant barrel

unlike the hustle and bustle of cities

is that we’re talking over 20,000

sponges and delicate soft corals, all

above the waves, you’ll have these

square miles of reef systems made

adorned with colourful crinoids. The

all to yourself.

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PAPUA NEW GUINEA | FEATURE

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FEATURE | PAPUA NEW GUINEA

DEACON’S REEF WHERE: Milne Bay WHAT : An incredible topography of towering

coral cliffs punctuated by a sheer drop-off extending beyond 300 metres TO SEE: The sheer variety of corals is staggering, from fields of sea fans and whips to bommies and coral towers – look out for passing giant trevallies and camouflaged macro critters among the motley crew of colourful corals

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PAPUA NEW GUINEA | FEATURE

VANESSA’S REEF WHERE: Kimbe Bay WHAT : The submerged shoulder

of a much larger reef that descends to a depth of 18m TO SEE: Dark red gorgonian sea fans so huge they could dwarf LeBron James (or any basketball player, for that matter) alongside sponge gardens draped in crinoids topped with hawkfish and commensal shrimp nestled in anemones

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FEATURE | PAPUA NEW GUINEA

While you’re here, WHY NOT… Few places inspire a sense of adventure quite like Papua New Guinea…

1

KAWARI RIVER, EAST SEPIK From touching down on a grass landing strip in the middle of the jungle to spotting the elusive twelve-wired bird-of-paradise in

the towering canopies, everything about the East Sepik Provence is surreal. Spend days meandering down the Karawari River, meeting locals in riverside villages and learning about their daily lives in this most remote region.

2

A TWITCHER’S DREAM: BIRD WATCHING IN NEW BRITAIN The island of New Britain, off the

eastern tip of PNG proper, is something of a geological hotspot and home to a wealth of endemic species including the New Britain buzzard, rufousfaced warbler and blue-eyed cockatoo. Head out at dawn or dusk, when the birds are most active, to spot these fluorescent feathered wonders in the forests – rest assured, there’s plenty to fit the, er, bill.

3

SKULL CAVE, MILNE BAY While it might not be everyone’s idea of fun, the Tawali skull caves, believed to be ancient burial grounds,

are worth a visit for a fascinating glimpse of the past. After visiting the caves, hike inland to cool off in secret waterfalls hidden in the rainforest.

It’s all very Indiana Jones.

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PAPUA NEW GUINEA | FEATURE

4

KAYAK THROUGH FJORDS, TUFI Tufi is home to some of the most dazzling coastline we’ve come across.

Kayak along the coast past white-sandy beaches backed by virgin rainforest and through fjords that plunge over 100m into the ocean. Insider tip: remember your snorkel gear as you will glide over some spectacular coral outcrops.

5

TRIBAL TRADITION, MOUNT HAGEN Located 4,000ft up in the West Highlands province, Mount Hagen’s Melpa people

had no contact with the outside world until the 1930s. Today you can visit local villages for an insight into the area’s fascinating culture, which ranges from moka tribal ceremonies of exchange to the story of the mud men (we won’t give it away).

6

GARU HOT RIVER, NEW BRITAIN Soothe away any residual stresses in a steamy hot stream. Enveloped by the

towering trees and giant ferns of tropic jungle and fed by a volcanic spring, the Garu thermal river puts most ‘baths with a view’ to shame. For a complete spa experience, exfoliate using the natural red mud on the sandbanks before washing it off in the warm mini-waterfall.

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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...

…FOR CORAL DIVING Move over London, Paris, New York and Tokyo, these are the greatest cities on earth.

EGYPT

FIJI

BONAIRE

Boasting over 400 species of coral,

A narrow stretch of sea between

Located off Venezuela in the southern

the dive sites across the Red Sea

Vanua Levu and Taveuni, Somosomo

Caribbean, it is possible to dive from

are home to plunging, dramatic

Strait is fed by tidal currents providing

every corner of Bonaire, earning the

walls; caves, caverns and pinnacles.

ample nutrients for lush soft coral

island the unofficial title of ‘shore

The vivid explosions of soft and

growth across the walls, sloping reefs

diving capital of the world’. Whether

hard corals are matched only by

and pinnacles. From marvelling at the

you’re learning to dive or a seasoned

their equally technicolour residents.

multicoloured corals at the aptly

pro, all swims of life will appreciate

Even the wrecks (of which there are

named Rainbow Reef, Purple Wall and

the fantastic coral formations, from

many) are wrapped like presents in

Yellow Tunnel to descending down the

ginormous brain corals to piers and

rainbow coloured corals. Whether

luminescent white corals that drape

anchors adorned with colourful

diving from the shore or setting sail

the Great White Wall like a blanket of

sponges and corals. Plus, Bonaire is

to the far corners of this region on a

snow, the sheer variety of colours

located outside the hurricane belt so

liveaboard, you’re sure to enjoy this

across the strait is mind-boggling.

you can visit throughout the year.

aquatic kaleidoscope.

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JUST ONE OF OUR MANY ADDITIONAL SERVICES...

UK AIRPORT LOUNGE Enjoy the comfort of an airport lounge with free drinks and snacks, even if you're flying in economy

To find out more about The Detail and relevant Terms and Conditions, see page six or visit www.originaldiving.com/why-choose-us

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FEATURE | INDONESIA

SAIL AWAY WITH ME If you want to get truly off-the-grid and discover some of the most remote, pristine dive sites in the world, all the while upping the dive count, then liveaboard diving is the answer. Set sail for the islands of Indonesia for the best of the bunch.

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INDONESIA | FEATURE

Si Datu Bua, a traditional phinisi liveaboard

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FEATURE | INDONESIA

Top to bottom, left to right: Luxury liveaboard Tiger Blue sails through Raja Ampat Indonesia’s thriving reefs A black reef manta Weedy scorpionfish

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INDONESIA | FEATURE

EAT, SLEEP, DIVE, REPEAT When you set sail on your liveaboard to destinations unknown, and with a salty ocean breeze ruffling your hair, it’s hard to argue with the old proverb about the journey being as important as the destination. As your skipper plots his course between the most coveted diving destinations, a liveaboard cruise allow divers unparalleled opportunities to explore some of the finest dive sites in the world. And for the crème de la crème of liveaboard experiences, look no further than Indonesia. Located in the bullseye of the Coral Triangle and home to the world’s most biodiverse marine ecosystems, there are thousands upon thousands of world-class dive sites scattered across the region, all best explored aboard a phinisi (traditional Indonesian sailing boat).

Whether your liveaboard is sailing around the favourites of Raja Ampat and Komodo, or exploring the lesser-known (but no less impressive) corners of Alor or the Banda islands, it’s not unusual to have entire reefs to yourself. Even better, the remoteness of these sites and limited human interaction means everything comes supersized. From table corals that could seat a dozen for dinner to vast cabbage patches, bulbous brains and highlighter shaded soft corals, all are blurred with bright flickers in every colour as huge shoals of fish dart about their daily lives. Above the surface, sweeping vistas reveal a time seemingly forgotten, with undisturbed glassy-watered bays and misty jungles exhaling thin clouds of smoke from hidden villages. Slip into a delicious routine of eat, sleep, dive, repeat as you delve a little deeper into Indonesia’s mind-boggling marine diversity.

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FEATURE | INDONESIA

INSIDER KNOWLEDGE:

DIVE GUIDE FERY An excellent dive guide makes all the difference to your trip and we know where to find them. We’ve been chatting to dive guide extraordinaire Fery from the Arenui on what makes liveaboard diving so special…

HOW DID YOU GET INTO DIVING?

YOUR BEST DIVING MOMENT

My father was a fisherman and when

WITH A GUEST?

I was a young child I used to join him

In 2018 we were diving from the

on his boat. I loved how colourful and

liveaboard Arenui in front of a little

beautiful all the different species of

village where they have an amazing

fish were and one day told my father

old wooden jetty. It is home to all kinds

‘I will never kill or eat another fish’.

of fish and marine life from schooling

I decided to find a job to try and

giant sweetlips to giant clams,

protect all the fish in the ocean and

surgeon fishes, fusiliers, green turtles

soon had the opportunity to start

and much more. It was the last day

diving, which changed my life forever.

of the trip and we decided to do a shallow early morning dive at five

WHERE HAVE YOU DIVED?

metres depth. As soon as we went

Manado, Lembeh and Bunaken in

under the jetty it was full of life with

North Sulawesi, Komodo, Alor, Banda

hundreds of fishes, and we started

Sea, Triton Bay, Ambon and Raja Ampat.

diving through them when suddenly all the fishes start swimming like

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE

crazy and after a few seconds they

DIVE SITE AND WHY?

were gone. Then a bull shark came

Magic Mountain in Misool has an

and swam very gently under the

incredible diversity of life, from pygmy

jetty in three metres of water and

seahorses and nudibranchs to giant

one metre from us. This was my first

and reef mantas, sharks, dolphins and

time ever seeing that kind of shark

even whale sharks. After many years

and after dozens more dives in that

diving there I still enjoy it just as much

spot since I am still looking for him!

as the first time – anything can happen there, which is why we call it ‘magic’!

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INDONESIA | FEATURE

WHAT DO YOU DO TO MAKE THE TRIP

WHY DO YOU THINK A LIVEABOARD

TOP TIP WHEN DIVING

SO SPECIAL FOR YOUR GUESTS?

IS A GOOD WAY TO DIVE?

FROM A LIVEABOARD?

For me it is very important to make all

Diving from a liveaboard is the best

Once you are on a liveaboard and

my guests happy and there are a few

way to explore an entire area and go

you start the trip you need to think

things I always do to make sure every

to places where only a few people

about how far from the city you will

single diver has the best trip of their

have been before. Every morning

be for many days. If something fails

life. First, safety is very important for

when you wake up you are in a new

on your dive equipment you can’t get

me, so I always do a briefing before we

area and the dive sites are different.

the proper spare part, so it’s very

go underwater, explaining how deep

You don’t need to do long speedboat

important to carry a spare battery

we will go, in which direction and

rides because the liveaboard will be

for your dive computer, new straps

where the currents are on that dive

there and if the conditions are not

for your mask or fins and even a

site. During the dive I keep a constant

good in one place then you travel all

whole extra mask!

eye on them to make sure there is

night and the next morning you are

no problem. The second thing is

100 miles away and you may find the

protecting and respecting the marine

perfect conditions. One day you can

Visit our website to discover

life. I want to show the beauty of the

enjoy diving with mantas and pelagic

Indonesia’s most luxurious

reef but at the same time I explain to

fish, then the next day you can be

them how important it is to avoid

diving for macro life and the next day

touching or damaging the coral. If I

you are diving along walls covered

see one of them trying to get a photo

with colourful corals and tons of reef

of something and there is coral nearby

fish. Basically, staying on the Arenui is

I make sure they will not damage it.

like being on a floating five star hotel

The other thing I always do from the

and diving five star dive sites every day!

first second until the last one is to keep

liveaboards: originaldiving.com/collections/ luxury-indonesia-liveaboards Images from left to right, top to bottom: elephant ear coral, epaulette shark, squat shrimp, anemonefish, sea fan corals, juvenile boxfish, tassled wobbegong shark

looking for the things my guests want to see and to make sure everybody sees them and can get good photos.

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FEATURE | INDONESIA

While you’re here, WHY NOT… Whether surfing in Sumba, biking through Bali, lounging in Lombok or eating just about everywhere, Indonesia has something for everyone.

1

PADDLEBOARD THE PASSAGE, RAJA AMPAT Follow the path of legendary explorer Alfred Russel Wallace when paddle boarding in

the crystal clear waters of Hidden Bay - aptly hidden by towering limestone karsts - before continuing along the winding waterway between Waigeo and Gam Islands spotting rainbow-shaded soft corals among the mangroves.

2

THE VOLCANOES OF JAVA Stay in a secret spot 6,000ft above sea level in Bromo Tengger National Park, waking up at dawn to watch the

sun peak over the horizon at Mount Bromo’s summit.

Then take the scenic train journey to Bangyuwangi to marvel at the steaming volcanic vents and turquoise crater lake of the Ijen crater before decamping to the coast of Bali Barat National Park.

3

SLOW DOWN IN LOMBOK Channel your inner beach bum on the talc-fine white beaches of Lombok,

Bali’s sleepy, laid-back neighbour. Spend days snorkelling over pristine reefs, exploring the island’s jungle-clad interiors and day tripping - picnic in tow - to explore the so-called Secret Gili islands.

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INDONESIA | FEATURE

4

ADVENTURE IN UBUD Bali’s cultural, spiritual and culinary capital, Ubud is also one big adventure playground. Enjoy cycling past emerald

rice paddies; rafting down the Ayung River’s rapids; hiking up the majestic Mount Batur for sunrise; embracing spirituality in the region’s temples or learning the art behind Indonesia’s culinary creations with a local cooking class.

5

THE SUMBA SURF SCENE Located to the east of Bali, the lost-world island of Sumba hosts one of Indonesia’s best surf breaks. Stay at Nihi Sumba,

one of our all-time favourite lodges, and learn to surf with world class instructors on the smaller waves of Coconut Cove or tackle the bigger barrels of Occy’s Left, a private break which is limited to only ten people per day, so you can surf the swells in salty solitude.

6

OFF-THE-BEATEN-TRACK IN SULAWESI When not diving some of the world’s best muck diving sites in Northern

Sulawesi’s Lembeh Strait, explore the Minahasa Highlands; cycle around the scenic Tondano Lake; soothe aches in bubbling hot springs and hike its craggy volcanic peaks for sweeping vistas of the towering Gunung Lukon volcano.

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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...

... FOR LIVEABOARDS

OMAN

AUSTRALIA

Located off the south eastern coast of Oman, the

The three swirling atolls that make up Rowley Shoals

Hallaniyat Islands are a relatively new destination

are the remnants of a trio of extinct volcanoes,

for liveaboard divers, wherein lies the charm. Board

featuring everything from dramatic canyons and

the Oman Aggressor to cruise the archipelago,

lagoons to thrilling drifts and plunging walls

diving in a fish soup of reef species alongside

populated by healthy corals and abundant marine

honeycomb moray eels, dragon morays, giant

life (over 688 species, to be precise). The Rowley

groupers, sea turtles and - if you visit between

Shoals are located 180 miles west of Broome, so

January and March - humpback whales, all without

set sail aboard True North and explore sites guided

another soul in sight.

by a marine biologist and a posse of underwater naturalists, naturally.

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INDONESIA | FEATURE

Whether you’re a snorkeller or advanced diver; want to up the dive count or combine diving with land-based escapades, we know the very best liveaboards plying the world’s oceans.

MALDIVES

MICRONESIA

Rather than pick one idyllic island paradise, cruise

Located in the Pacific, this remote archipelago is

around several aboard some of the world’s finest

home to Chuuk Lagoon, the site of a ferocious

luxury liveaboards. Each day dip into a different

airstrike carried out by the United States on the

turquoise atoll to explore some of the archipelago’s

Japanese in WWII known as ‘Operation Hailstone’.

more remote dive sites, ranging from crystal clear

Best accessed by liveaboard, divers can explore an

lagoons to thrilling channel dives. Along the way,

underwater museum of over 50 wartime wrecks

dive with manta rays, sharks, dolphins, groupers

draped in corals, spotting all manner of cargo

and more, spending surface intervals exploring

including bullets, gas masks and even bones. For

local islands and picnicking on deserted sandbanks.

the best of both worlds, hop west to Yap to dive with mantas in the Mi’l channel.

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FEATURE | INDONESIA

AHOY THERE! A far cry from the days of scallywags and scurvy, leave landlubbers behind and discover some of the most luxurious, adventurous liveaboards we offer.

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INDONESIA | FEATURE

Top to bottom,

⚫ The Alexa, Indonesia

⚫ Nautlius Belle Amie, Socorro

left to right:

⚫ Galapagos Sky, Darwin’s Arch

⚫ Scubaspa, Maldives

in the Galapagos ⚫ Si Datu Bua, Indonesia

⚫ The Undersea Hunter’s DeepSea Submersible, Cocos Island, Costa Rica

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FEATURE | PHILLIPINES

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PHILLIPINES | FEATURE

SMALL IS THE NEW BIG What if we told you that you don’t need to board a spaceship to see alien life forms? That below the surface of some of the world’s most remote and exotic seas, tiny, weird and wonderful aliens of all shapes and colours thrive and flourish in underwater landscapes just as varied?

Welcome to the wonderful world of macro diving.

Peacock mantis shrimp

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FEATURE | PHILLIPINES

This: Pygmy seahorse Below: Blue-ringed octopus Opposite top: ‘Shaun the Sheep’ nudibranch Opposite bottom: Whip coral shrimp

SPACE ODDITIES Divers are really astronauts; gliding

The seabed here is home to a mix

weightless through the ocean we

of coral and muck sites (so-called

explore strange new worlds, some

because of the nutrient-rich volcanic

carpeted in colourful coral gardens

sand – or ‘mucky’ – seabed), and divers

and others covered by desolate

are treated to the whole spectrum

volcanic sands. Look a little closer

of critters, from the expertly

and a world of minute macro marvels

camouflaged – like the pygmy

is unveiled.

seahorse that winds itself round the

The name ‘macro diving’ derives

tendrils of a gorgonian sea fan, or the

from the large lens needed to capture

tiny coconut octopus that shelters in

the ocean’s smallest critters. The sheer

shells – to the bold and brilliant. From

quantity of macro life is too long to list

technicolour sea slugs (nudibranchs)

(with new species being discovered

to the rainbow coloured peacock

almost daily), and while they can be

mantis shrimp, spindly ghost pipefish

found across the world many of the

and bizarre hairy frogfish, these are

best sites can be found in the Bohol

some of the most fascinating

Sea off Dauin in the Philippines.

creatures in the ocean.

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PHILLIPINES | FEATURE

KEEP YOUR CRITTERS CLOSE

It might sound obvious but one of the best tips for capturing the perfect shot is to get closer. While this might be easy with stationary subjects, with timid fish remember to take your time, watch your surroundings and never poke, prod or harass your subject to get them closer to your lens. We are guests in their world and there should be no shortage of subjects on the reef.

INSIDER KNOWLEDGE:

MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY Professional underwater photographer Saeed Rashid shares his top tricks for getting the perfect shot…

BEHAVIOUR AL INSTINCTS

Talk to most dive guides and they will tell you that they rarely look for the subjects themselves but the habitat in which they live. Some critters, like the ‘Shaun the Sheep’ nudibranch or a whip coral shrimp, can be so small they appear as a tiny dot but if you know the type of places to look you can find these amazing critters.

Grab yourself a magnifying glass and keep it in your BCD pocket as it will significantly aid your search for some of the smaller subjects in the sea.

Caption goes here

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FEATURE | PHILLIPINES

A LIGHTBULB MOMENT

Artificial lighting – the use of strobes (flashes) and occasionally continuous lights (torches) – is important for photographing the smaller fish and critters on the reef. Spend time practicing in a swimming pool before you get out on the reef and when you do take a photo check it out on the camera screen, zooming into the corners just to make sure you have them positioned correctly. Remember, with lights you can get a big difference with only a small change so adjust settings a little at a time.

Clockwise from above: Harlequin ghost pipefish Orbicular damselfish Feather star shrimp Anemonefish

THINK COMPOSITION

Try and make something in your photograph the focal point. This could be a fan coral on a wall, the eye of a fish or even your buddy – this will add interest and really help your image ‘pop’. See if you can add depth to your composition by shooting along a reef or blurring the background. Many people will tell you to fill the frame with the subject but a clever use of so-called negative space can be just as powerful.

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PHILLIPINES | FEATURE

A BEAUTIFUL BACKDROP

Even when you are photographing the most colourful and exciting subjects a messy background can ruin your photograph. Experienced photographers often look for background first then search for a foreground subject to add interest.I will often follow a fish in my viewfinder and only press the shutter when it ventures to a more photogenic location.

NEVER SHOOT DOWN, EXCEPT…

When I teach new underwater photographers, I often talk about getting ‘clean water’ behind your subject. The best way to do this is to get down below or at least eye level with your subject. For me, the only time you break this rule is when you’re photographing something that has an attractive back such as a turtle, shark or ray.

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FEATURE | PHILLIPINES

While you’re here, WHY NOT… The 7,107 islands of the Philippines are surrounded by more than 10,000 square miles of coral reefs, home to over 1,200 macro and pelagic species and WWII wrecks galore.

1

THRESHING AROUND Monad Shoal, a large seamount off Malapascua Island in northern Cebu, is the only place in the world where

sightings of the elusive thresher shark are almost guaranteed. Descend to 25 metres at dawn to see these long-tailed predators rid themselves of parasites at the reef’s cleaning stations.

2

A BAIT BALL FESTIVAL Just off the shores of Panagsama beach in Moalboal lives a shoal of millions of sardines in a bait ball so

thick it blots out the sun. Enter the cloud and watch them dance and shimmer across the reef until you reach a sudden 40 metre drop off out to the blue.

3

BARRACUDA LAKE Located in a volcanic crater in Coron, Barracuda Lake offers the unique experience of diving in a mix of fresh

and salt water, separated by a foggy, bath temperature (no need for a wetsuit here) thermocline at around 14 metres depth.

Continue descending down against a dramatic jagged limestone wall backdrop until you reach the silty floor, which feels like landing on Mars.

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PHILLIPINES | FEATURE

4

WRECK YOURSELF Located on the northern tip of Palawan, Coron Bay is home to an underwater museum of a dozen Japanese WWII

ships, sunk in 1944. Conveniently close together, explore wartime vessels (some over 550ft long) encrusted in corals and decked out with amazing artefacts (think: anti-aircraft guns).

5

EL NIDO’S BIG AND SMALL LAGOON If you can drag yourself away from the marvellous underwater world, El Nido has

some of the most beautiful topside scenery in the world. Avoid the crowds by kayaking around the magnificent Big and Small Lagoons in the late afternoon, drifting past dramatic limestone karst cliffs to hidden sparkling white sand beaches.

6

CAPTIVATING CORAL For those who like to drift gently past ornate, rainbow-coloured walls bursting with life, head to Anda, a quieter corner

of Bohol, and you’ll be greeted with sites brimming with stunning hard and soft corals and equally exotic inhabitants from sea snakes and turtles to pygmy seahorses, candy crabs, and, if you’re lucky, whale sharks.

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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...

...FOR MACRO DIVING As your ground control, we’ve compiled some of our favourite macro diving destinations, guaranteed to leave you starry-eyed…

NORTHERN SULAWESI, INDONESIA

MAFIA ISLAND, TANZANIA

MILNE BAY, PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Often hailed as a ‘muck diving mecca’,

When sites are called Nudi City and

The original muck diving spot,

the Lembeh Strait in Northern Sulawesi

Frogfish Town, you know the muck

Milne Bay in Papua New Guinea

is without a doubt one of the most

diving’s going to be good. Located

is a celebration of all things small.

extraordinary and interesting marine

off the shores of Chole Bay in Mafia

From pygmy seahorses, octopus

environments to dive. Spot some of the

Island Marine Park, both sites are a

and scorpionfish to mandarin fish,

world’s rarest, most unusual critters

haven for a plethora of small critters

crabs, shrimps and all manner of

lurking in the debris of black and grey

hiding across the reef, from over 80

eels, Milne Bay will most likely have

volcanic sand slopes, including no less

different species of nudibranch and

it. Aside from its marvellous muck

than eight species of frogfish, plus

frogfish to ghost pipefish, cuttlefish,

sites, Milne Bay is a jack of all

mimic octopuses, flamboyant cuttlefish,

seahorses, harlequin shrimps and little

trades, boasting colourful coral

pygmy seahorses, blue ringed

dragonfish – and with both sites at just

gardens, busy drop-offs, towering

octopuses and even the bobbit worm

ten metres depth you can seek out

pinnacles and sunken WWII wrecks,

(which you might remember engulfing

these camouflaged critters for longer.

all pulsating with tropical fish and

an entire lion fish in Blue Planet II).

passing pelagics.

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JUST ONE OF OUR MANY ADDITIONAL SERVICES...

PRE‑BOOKED SEATS Avoid airlines’ random seat allocation

To find out more about The Detail and relevant Terms and Conditions, see page six or visit www.originaldiving.com/why-choose-us

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FEATURE | MALDIVES

– The –

CONSERVATION CONVERSATION Our adventures both above and below the water have given us fi rst-hand experience of the fragility of the oceans and their remarkable inhabitants. As environmental conservation increasingly takes centre stage on the global platform, a breed of admirable eco-retreats are pioneering changes to save our blue planet.

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MALDIVES | FEATURE

A coral grouper

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FEATURE | MALDIVES

PROTECT WHAT YOU LOVE A glistening archipelago of pearl

With three resident NGO’s – the

drop islands, turquoise lagoons and

Manta Trust, Blue Marine Foundation

(understatement alert) incredible

and Olive Ridley Project – on board,

diving, the Maldives is one of the most

the resort is also championing ocean

coveted havens on earth, yet also

conservation through research,

one of the most fragile. However,

education and local community work.

where unregulated fishing practices,

They take students - many of whom

plastic-pollution and climate change

have never properly explored their

are real threats, Six Senses Laamu

watery world - snorkelling on local

resort is providing the answer.

reefs, and launched the annual

Located in the southern Laamu atoll,

Save the Sea Turtles festival to raise

Six Senses Laamu’s eco-credentials

awareness of their plight. Through

are impeccable. They have pledged

these admirable actions, Six Senses

to become plastic-free by 2022,

is planting the seed for long-term

encourage guests to don their

change by igniting blue minds across

sustainability-sunhats, and bring a

the atoll (and beyond) to act together

wealth of eco-experience to bear when

to protect what they love. After all,

lobbying hard for new regulations

we are all stewards of the natural

for marine reserves. Quite simply,

environment.

sustainability is in the Six Senses’ DNA.

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MALDIVES | FEATURE

• CONSERVATION BREEDS BIODIVERSITY •

A mammoth amount of megafauna continues to thrive and flourish in the Laamu atoll, so much so, that if Original Diving guests of Six Senses Laamu do not see a shark, dolphin, turtle, napoleon wrasse, eagle ray, sting ray or manta ray during their trip, they’ll let guests stay for free. (See website for T&Cs.)

Images clockwise from top left: A local education field trip Laamu’s thriving reefs A local school student snorkelling A giant frogfish captured on the house reef The annual ‘Turtles in Laamu - Safe and Protected’ festival

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FEATURE | MALDIVES

OCEAN THREATS

As the fragility of these blue worlds becomes increasingly apparent, these human activities are affecting the health of the ocean.

OVER-FISHING

38.5M tonnes of by-catch caught per year

90% of wild fish stocks are fully or over-exploited

700,000 tonnes of fishing gear enters the sea per year

39% decline recorded in marine species in 40 years

PLASTICS

40% of plastic produced is single-use packaging

8M

91% of plastic waste is not recycled

metric tonnes of plastic waste enters the ocean every year

1950

1.5M 2002

200M 2017

348M

Volume of plastics produced in metric tonnes

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MALDIVES | FEATURE

48%

30%

increase in ocean acidity since the industrial revolution

of all CO2 produced by human production has been absorbed by the ocean

CLIMATE CHANGE

SEA TEMPERATURE Increasing thermal stress causes coral bleaching and the spread of infectious diseases

SEA LEVELS Habitat loss, increasing soil salinity and coastal erosion are just a few effects

STORM PATTERNS Stronger, more frequent storms have caused the disruption of reef structures

PRECIPITATION Increased runoff of land-based pollutants are causing harmful algae blooms

OCEAN CURRENTS Changing connectivity and temperature regimes means fewer nutrients are being transported to sustain ocean life

ACIDIFICATION A reduction in pH levels decreases coral growth rates and structural integrity

SIX SENSES SUSTAINABILITY SCRIPTURE FOR TRAVELLING

REFUSE SINGLEUSE PLASTIC Be prepared. Carry a reusable water bottle, coffee cup, shopping bag and metal straw

GIVE BACK Donate to the local community or volunteer during your trip

BUY LOCAL Support local artisans by purchasing handmade, local items

SUPPORT WILD EXPERIENCES Support a natural wildlife experience, not a show put on just for tourists

SHARING IS CARING Share your stories and inspire others to travel responsibly

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FEATURE | MALDIVES

While you’re here, WHY NOT… Teamwork makes the dream work, so get stuck in with these eco-adventures at Six Senses Laamu...

1

RESTORE THE REEF Guided by an expert coral biologist, harvest coral fragments from donor colonies, attach them to the nursery’s

ropes, scrub off any unwanted algae, measure the increased growth rate and transplant corals back on to the house reef to thrive and flourish.

Et voila, a reef is born.

2

TURTLE NEST HATCHING

Visit during turtle hatching season (May to September) and witness hundreds of baby green turtles emerging from their

nests, padding down the beach before disappearing into the foamy waves. If they hatch at night, the resort will wake you up to see this heart-warming spectacle under a blanket of stars.

3

BEACHCOMBING FOR CHANGE Sorry to be the bearers of bad news, but without action there could be more plastic

than fish in the sea by 2050. Join the war against plastic pollution by joining a beach or reef clean, because each and every piece of litter removed from the beach is a piece that will no longer threaten to harm the local marine life.

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MALDIVES | FEATURE

4

A TURTLE-Y AWESOME FESTIVAL Attend the island’s annual Save the Sea Turtles festival – an atoll-wide

event that brings together 13 schools, NGOs and local councils across all 11 islands in Laamu to raise awareness of the importance of turtles, their habitats and the overall health of the marine environment.

5

BECOME A MARINE BIOLOGIST Don your snorkel gear and take a field trip with one of the ten resident marine

biologists to learn about the marvellous local marine life – whether exploring the house reef, sea grass meadows or heading out further afield, search for sharks, rays, turtles and fish galore.

6

JUNIOR MARINE BIOLOGIST Have a budding Jacques Cousteau in your brood? Little VIPs between six

and 16 can dive into the deep end with seven modules covering all things marine conservation – including a personalised project paired with a marine biologist.

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FEATURE | MALDIVES

WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...

...FOR ECO-ADVENTURES

NUARRO LUXURY ECO LODGE, MOZAMBIQUE

MISOOL ECO RESORT, RAJA AMPAT

Located in Northern Mozambique, Nuarro is an

With no light pollution, no noise pollution and no

adventure just to reach, but on arrival, guests will

phone signal, there is very little to distract you

have the sugar-white shores of Nanatha Half Moon

from the surrounding natural beauty at Misool

Bay all to themselves. The lodge ticks all the right

Eco Resort. The resort’s Misool Foundation is

boxes with electricity and clean water produced using

dedicated to safeguarding 300,000 acres of the

renewable energy while guests can also give back

world’s most biodiverse reef, which is now one

to the local community by volunteering during their

of the few places on Earth where biodiversity is

stay. Divers can explore straight from the shores

improving rather than declining – with biomass

and with seagrass, coral reefs and drop-offs, there

increasing as much as 600% in six years.

is plenty to keep guests underwater the entire trip.

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MALDIVES | FEATURE

Paving the way for ocean conservation across their respective seas, these eco-retreats are the standard-bearers for sustainable tourism.

JEAN-MICHEL COUSTEAU RESORT, FIJI

PALAU

Located on the doorstep of the Namena Marine

sanctuary and ban bottom trawling, while its

Reserve (often hailed as one of the world’s best

most recent eco-initiative, the Palau Pledge, is a

diving spots) in Savusavu Bay, the Jean-Michel

declaration signed with a stamp in visitors’ passports

Cousteau Resort makes a genuine effort at

to ensure responsible, sustainable tourism. The

sustainable tourism, from a giant clam project

result? A pristine divers paradise of sheer drop-offs,

to its water filtration programme. For those looking

coral-encrusted sea walls, caves, wrecks and

to go full eco-warrior, guests can do reef walks with

mind-boggling marine biodiversity. If you are

the resident marine biologist, conduct a reef audit

travelling around the new or full moon, it’s also

or plant coral at the reef farm.

possible to witness the rare incredible spectacle of a

Palau was the first country to create a shark

bumphead parrotfish or red snapper mass spawning.

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FEATURE | GOZO

The P13 wreck

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GOZO | FEATURE

A FAMILY ADVENTURE IN

GOZO According to legend, Odysseus fell under the sevenyear spell of the sea-nymph Calypso on the rural island of Gozo. These days, families continue to be seduced by its sunny climes, beautiful coastline and endless adventures both above and below the water.

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FEATURE | GOZO

A SHOAL LOT OF FUN For short-haul family fun in fins, make sure you go to Gozo.

What lies shaking on the bottom of the ocean?

Just a hop, skip and a jump from the UK (or, more

…a nervous wreck. Fortunately you can’t hear

precisely, a three-hour flight), Gozo has something

embarrassing dad jokes (or stroppy back chat)

suited to everyone. Malta’s little sister, this tiny

underwater, so there’s no better way to bond

island boasts the best diving in the Mediterranean,

with the family than on a diving holiday. Whether

with calm, turquoise waters more reminiscent of

introducing the sprogs to the wondrous watery

the tropics than Europe. Most of the dive sites are

world (which they can enjoy from as young as eight

accessible from the shore and with sheltered bays

with the PADI Bubblemaker course) or ticking off

aplenty this is the perfect place to learn, while for

all manner of marine critters together, we can put

more experienced divers wartime wrecks, caves,

together a tailor-made and family-friendly dive trip.

caverns and even the mysterious Blue Hole await.

Mastering basic scuba techniques

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GOZO | FEATURE

Clockwise from top left: Mgarr Ix Xini dive site A cuttlefish Between Inland Sea and Blue Hole dive sites

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FEATURE | GOZO

While you’re here, WHY NOT… For a tiny island, Gozo sure packs in a lot of family-friendly action.

1

HIT THE ROAD The best way to explore the island is on four wheels and, at just eight miles long and four miles wide, Gozo is easy

to navigate. There’s no shortage of attractions – from the rock-cut saltpans in Qbajjar Bay to stumbling across secluded coves (insider tip: don’t forget your mask and snorkel – you never know what you will come across).

2

VISIT VALLETTA

A short 30-minute ferry ride from Gozo, spend the day wandering around the butterscotch hued streets

of Malta’s capital, Valletta. Not to be outdone

by Gozo, this UNESCO World Heritage city’s previous occupants include the Phoenicians and the Romans. If you’re history-ed out, enjoy a delicious lunch overlooking the Grand Harbour.

3

SEA KAYAKING ADVENTURE Explore the island from a different angle on a family kayak trip. Led by

an expert guide, uncover the island’s hidden rocky bays and cays while learning about its swashbuckling, piratical past. Stop for a delicious picnic at a deserted beach of your choice before heading back to your familyfriendly hotel or villa at sunset.

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GOZO | FEATURE

4

PUMP UP THE ADRENALINE Gozo feels perfectly designed for outdoor adventures, and families can

up the adrenaline ante by rock climbing, abseiling, zip-lining, hiking and biking around the island.

Or, leave the children in capable hands while you sample Gozo’s finest wines on a vineyard tour.

5

CULTURE VULTURES Gozo has a fully Game of Thrones-style gory history, complete with invaders and pirates, and the island even played a cameo

role in the first series. Embrace your inner historians while uncovering a wealth of fascinating historical sites across the island, including the towering Citadel and the 5,600-year-old Ggantija Temple, built 500 years before Stonehenge.

6

SET SAIL Spend the day sailing around the Mediterranean aboard a luxurious private boat, stopping off for a swim

and a snorkel in the aptly named Blue Lagoon (off the neighbouring island of Comino) before sailing wherever catches your eye. On the subject, make sure to keep your eyes peeled for dolphins.

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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...

...FOR FAMILY DIVING

GRENADA

MALDIVES

Sitting pretty on the serene south-west coast of

They say you never forget your first dive, and that

Grenada, Mount Cinnamon is a haven for families,

will certainly be true in the Maldives. The lagoons

boasting spacious family friendly villas, a superb

and atolls here offer the perfect conditions for

Montessori Kids Club and it’s very own five-star

beginners, with clear, calm waters and colourful

PADI dive centre. Introduce the whole family to

reef fish aplenty, while the deeper channels between

the world of diving straight from the resort’s shores

the islands (for more advanced divers) are a magnet

in warm, calm waters above colourful reefs that

for pelagics (think: hundreds of manta rays, whale

are a pleasure to dive. Just 25 minutes south of

sharks and more). The cherries on the top are some

the resort, in Molinere Bay, is the world’s first

of the most luxurious, and family friendly, resorts

underwater sculpture park, which is shallow

on the planet.

enough to appreciate while snorkelling.

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GOZO | FEATURE

Whether introducing children to diving or deepening your bond over bubbles, these destinations will have the whole family hooked for life…

OMAN

BELIZE

Whether learning to dive off Oman’s glorious

Boasting no less than seven UNESCO World Heritage

coastline; snorkelling over the fish-filled reefs of

sites, dozens of Mayan ruins, thick tropical jungles

the Daymaniyat Islands; dune bashing in the Wahiba

home to a large population of jaguars and 250 miles

Sands; haggling for Arabian treasures in Muscat’s

of glistening Caribbean coastline, Belize is a

souqs; climbing the towering Hajar Mountains or

smorgasbord of adventure. Out to sea, Belize adds to

canyoning down spectacular wadis (mostly dry

its accolades with the longest stretch of coral in the

river valleys), Oman will ignite the whole family’s

western hemisphere. Whether diving or snorkelling,

adventurous spirit. Add in shortish haul flights, a

explore the Turneffe Atoll’s most remote sites, including

handful of marvellous family friendly hotels and a

Elbow Reef, and Lighthouse Reef, spotting clouds of

warm winter climate and you’re talking the holy

fish dancing over pristine coral reefs. If you’re a bunch

grail of family escapes.

of advanced aquatics, the mysterious Blue Hole awaits.

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FEATURE | GOZO

LEARNING TO DIVE… IT COULDN’T BE EASIER Gone are the days of having to spend weeks doing theory and pool sessions before jumping in a flooded quarry to finish your training. Today, learning to dive couldn’t be easier and you can go from never having dived to being a fully qualified diver in as little as four days. It’s easy and, what’s more, it’s safe. There are a number of options available to suit all ages and abilities from eight to 88 years old.

THE TECHNICAL BIT

THREE WAYS TO LEARN LEARN TO DIVE BEFORE YOU GO

If you don’t want to spend your holiday learning to dive you can get fully qualified at a local dive centre (we can help you find one). This means more time to dive while away but it does mean (if you live in the UK) that you’re going to be spending time in a pool.

HALF AND HALF

A popular option is to do the theory and pool work at home before completing the dives on holiday.

The first certification you need is the Open Water

This Open Water Referral means zero time spent

Diver, which allows you to dive with a buddy to a

in a classroom or pool on holiday so you can dive

depth of 18 metres (children between 10 and 11 can

straight in to the magical underwater world.

complete the PADI Junior Open Water Diver, which will take them to a maximum depth of 12 metres).

LEARN TO DIVE ON HOLIDAY

There are a number of certification bodies out there

This is a fun way to learn as you’ll likely be part of

but by far the most popular is PADI (the Professional

a small group with the same instructor throughout

Association of Dive Instructors), with SSI (Scuba

your training, but it takes up to four days and means

Schools International) and BSAC (British Sub Aqua

spending some of your holiday reading textbooks

Club) also well-known organisations. The Open

and sitting at the bottom of a pool. Or, if you’d rather

Water certification has three main components:

limit your classroom time while you’re away you can complete the e-learning at home and just do the

THEORY

practical parts on holiday. Win, win.

You need to complete theory training modules to understand the fundamentals of diving.

CLIMB THE LADDER

Don’t worry, this is extremely straightforward.

Why stop at Open Water? There are a number of courses available on our holidays that can take you

CONFINED WATER TR AINING

all the way to instructor, should you decide that a

Before getting into the ocean, you need sessions

career change is in order. We would recommend that

in a pool or similarly calm, shallow water to get

you at least get your Advanced certificate as this will

used to basic diving techniques.

allow you to dive to 30 metres and many of the best dives on our trips require this level of certification.

OPEN WATER TR AINING

To complete the certification, you need to do

www.originaldiving.com/learn-to-dive

four dives in open water to put what you have learned into practice.

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GOZO | FEATURE

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FEATURE | GOZO

INSIDER KNOWLEDGE:

LEARNING TO DIVE

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GOZO | FEATURE

We caught up with Original Travel Founder Tom Barber and his twins India and Siena on their experience of learning to dive…

TOM BARBER, DAD (A BIT OLDER THAN 10) WHAT MADE YOU WANT TO DO A FAMILY DIVING HOLIDAY?

Because - as a parent - if you love doing something you want to get your children involved as early as possible. OK, maybe not if your thing is blindfolded chainsaw juggling, but if it’s diving then very much so. One of the great bonding experiences is being back on the boat talking to the children about what you’ve all

INDIA & SIENA BARBER TWINS, (AGE: 10)

just seen on a dive, and with PADI’s brilliant Bubblemaker course they can start learning from as young as eight.

WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE PART OF LEARNING TO DIVE?

HOW WAS YOUR EXPERIENCE

INDIA: My favourite part was that

LEARNING TO DIVE WITH YOUR

the learning time before we went

CHILDREN?

underwater wasn’t too long and boring!

Amazing, and – cheesy as it sounds

SIENA: Mine was learning the hand

– very emotional. I was actually

signals, and what means what.

snorkelling while they were doing

We were then practicing them all

their Bubblemaker dives, but they only

the time, when we went snorkelling,

go three metres down so I was diving

even in the bath!

down and filming the whole thing with my GoPro. I was very proud of

WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE

them – they took to it like ducks to,

MOMENT UNDERWATER?

well, water. Once they’ve got the bug

INDIA: Seeing all the amazing tropical

– which they almost certainly will - at

fish and coral. There’s so much going

the age of ten children can do the PADI

on – it’s very beautiful.

Open Water course, but I know clients

SIENA: Swimming over the reef itself.

of ours who go diving with their children

It’s like un underwater city with fish

aged between eight and ten and who

everywhere. We also saw a moray eel

do one Bubblemaker dive a day so they

and a lobster.

are essentially on a diving holiday!

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT DIVING?

WILL YOU CONTINUE TO DO

INDIA: It feels like flying! I was nervous

FAMILY DIVING HOLIDAYS?

when we did our Bubblemaker dive

Absolutely, and one of the pleasures

so I was happy to be held by the

will be seeing them ‘come up through

instructor, but I can’t wait to dive

the ranks’ doing their PADI Open

on my own and do somersaults!

Water, then Advanced and so on. The

SIENA: That there’s a whole world

thought of doing more technical dives

underwater that you don’t realise

with them, and dives when they’re

about when you’re on the shore, or

more likely to see the truly amazing

in a boat. When you are down there

stuff, is incredibly exciting. I just hope

it feels like you are an explorer.

that as I grow older I’ll still have the puff to stay down as long as them!

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WE HOPE THIS BROCHURE HAS INSPIRED YOU. If so, please contact us as follows...

PHONE +44 (0) 20 3911 0430

ONLINE originaldiving.com originaltravel.co.uk

EMAIL ask@originaldiving.com

All the flights and flight-inclusive holidays in this brochure are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certificate. If you buy a holiday that does not include a flight, as a condition of our membership of ABTA, protection is also provided. Details of this protection is set out in our booking conditions viewable at originaldiving.com

All prices are from prices for a trip including flights from the UK in economy class, car hire, accommodation and, if specified, organised experiences.

PHOTO CREDITS Alphonse (p.2, p.34, p.35, p.39), Horacio Martinez (p.36, p.37), Blue Safari (p.37, p.38, p.39), Poelzer Wolfgang (p.40), Jorge Hauser (p.3, p.42, p.43, p.49), Rodrigo Friscione (p.44, p.45), Gary Bell (p.54), David Doubilet (p.55), Nigel Wade (p.1, p.18, p.55, p.56, p.57), Walindi Plantation Resort (p.54, p.55), Tufi Dive Resort (p.39), Karawari Lodge (p.38), Rondon Ridge (p.39) Trans Niugini Tours (p.38, p.39), Tim Simond (p.2, p.62, p.63), Tiger Blue (p.62), the Arenui (p.63, p.66, p.67), Scott Johnson (p.70), The Alexa (p.72), Galapagos Sky (p.72), Si Datu Bau (p.72), Nautilus Belle Amie (p.73), Scubaspa (p.73), The Undersea Hunter (p.73), Daniel Gray (p.76), Saeed Rashid (p.76, p.77, p.78, p.79), India Tyndall (p.81), Marteyne van Well (p.3, p.84, p.85, p.87, p.90, p.91), Six Senses Laamu (p.86, p.87, p.90, p.91), Xlendi Tours (p.3, p.94, p.98, p.99), Pete Bullen (p.97), Dive Grenada (p.100), Tom Barber (p.100, p.101, p.102, p.103).

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To order one of our brochures call: +44 (0) 20 3911 0430 or visit: originaltravel.co.uk/brochure

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Front cover image: Bobtail squid captured by the late Nigel Wade in Papua New Guinea

LIFE IS IN THE DETAIL

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ORIGINAL DIVING

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DIVE IN

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