Front cover image: Bobtail squid captured by the late Nigel Wade in Papua New Guinea
LIFE IS IN THE DETAIL
originaltravel.co.uk +44 (0) 20 3911 0430
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ORIGINAL DIVING
originaldiving.com
DIVE IN
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34
MAPPING OUT ALPHONSE
12
42
MARINE LIFE
WHERE THE BIG THINGS ARE
74
62
SMALL IS THE NEW BIG
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SAIL AWAY WITH ME
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94
A FAMILY ADVENTURE IN GOZO
INTRODUCTION
Your first dive: that revolutionary moment when you realise that the impossible is possible. From the sheer thrill of ‘flying’ to witnessing a parallel universe of colourful coral cities and equally enthralling marine life, there’s nothing quite like strapping a tank to your back and blowing bubbles in the deep blue. And with over 71% of the Earth’s surface covered by water, there are endless opportunities to experience something new, whether that’s exploring the wonderful world of macro diving or setting sail to dive the world’s most remote sites by liveaboard; each new dive reveals another of the ocean’s secrets. To make sure every dive is as special as your first, our crack team of dive instructors, dive masters and marine biologists are on hand to create the ultimate personalised diving adventure. Even better, because we believe that life is in the detail, our portfolio of additional services (including fast-track check-in, security and lounge access at the airport - even if you’re flying economy - and the inside track knowledge of our Concierges in every destination)
52
PSYCHEDELIC CORAL CITIES
come as standard on every Original Diving trip. After all, everything is possible when Life is in the Detail.
Louisa Fisher, Head of Original Diving
CONTENTS Marine life ................................................................. 12 Mapping out Alphonse, Seychelles ........................ 34
84
THE CONSERVATION CONVERSATION
Where the big things are: Socorro, Mexico ........... 42 Psychedelic coral cities of Papua New Guinea ..... 52 Sail away with me: Indonesia .................................. 62 Small is the new big: The Philippines ..................... 74 The conservation conversation: The Maldives .... 84 A family adventure in Gozo, Malta.......................... 94
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INTRODUCTION
OUR TEAM
After 16 years in business and several lifetimes spent travelling the globe, the Original Travel team of experts (of which Original Diving is part) have developed a deep understanding of our destinations. We are passionate about these places, taking great pride in our thoughtful approach to planning each and every tailor-made itinerary.
31 15 37 330+
161 17
the number of countries the
the number of countries the
the number of languages spoken
Original Travel team have visited
team have lived or worked in
by the Original Travel team
the number of nationalities represented by the Original
the number of
years combined experience
Original Travel children
working in travel
Travel team
EUROPE
NORTH AMERICA
WHERE OUR CLIENTS HAVE TRAVELLED
5,027
12,624
CARIBBEAN
1,438
SOUTH AMERICA & ANTARCTICA
6,169
AFRICA
10,921
MIDDLE EAST
2,547 9,846 ASIA
INDIAN OCEAN
3,418
AUSTRALASIA
1,452
Since 2003 we have created over 52,000 tailor-made holiday itineraries
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INTRODUCTION
LOCAL CONCIERGES Our global network of Concierges are always on hand to take your holiday experience to the next level. The Concierges live locally, know their destinations inside and out and are a phone call (or WhatsApp, email etc…) away to arrange additional activities. They can:
A DAY IN THE LIVES OF OUR ORIGINAL TRAVEL CONCIERGES
9:00
ICELAND Lizzie and Louisa arrive in Iceland in the middle of a ferocious storm. Concierge Bertrand organises a car upgrade and reminds
Make any last-minute changes to your itinerary
them never to open the car doors with the
Recommend the hottest restaurants (and secure
wind behind (in case the doors are ripped
that elusive table)
off!). He continues to send daily weather
Tip you off about the local haunts most travellers
updates and suggestions along their
never know about
self-drive route, including where to eat
Generally anticipate your every need while away
the best langoustine soup in Iceland!
Original Travel is the only travel company in the UK to offer this service – we believe our local Concierges add another dimension entirely to your trip.
12:30
TANZANIA After getting lost wandering around Stone Town in Zanzibar on his own, Adrian contacts our Concierge Nadia for some recommendations. Nadia arranges a local tour guide, Cassim, to meet him at the hotel the following morning for a walking tour. They visit a spice farm and generally see a side to the city that’s often missed, and Adrian leaves with a deeper understanding of Zanzibar’s rich history.
18:00
INDONESIA After a last-minute decision to do a night dive in Tulamben, Richard and Emily worry they need to rush back to be in time for their dinner reservation. They then see a text from our Concierge Liliane saying, ‘I hear you decided to do a night dive so I moved dinner back by an hour. Take your time and I hope you enjoyed exploring the wonderful reef!’
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INTRODUCTION
OUR SERVICE
We’re called Original Travel for a reason. We’re constantly looking for innovative ways to make your holiday even better. We like to call it Original Thinking. Book with Original Travel and these services come as standard…
UK DEPARTURE ASSISTANCE Our team will meet you at the airport and fast-track you through
UK AIRPORT LOUNGE
Enjoy the comfort of an airport lounge with free drinks and snacks, even if you’re flying in economy
FAST-TRACK SERVICES In UK airports, we’ll speed you through check-in and security queues
PRE-BOOKED SEATS Avoid airlines’ random seat allocation
for flights booked with Original Travel
LOCAL CONCIERGES Our global network of Concierges live locally, know
their destinations inside and out, and are always on hand
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INTRODUCTION
ONE POINT OF CONTACT
HOLD SEATS
OUR APP
Our destination expert will
While fine-tuning your trip
Access your itinerary,
create a perfectly tailor-made
we’ll be holding airline seats
destination dossier and live
itinerary for you
updates on our app
BORROW A GOPRO
EXPERT GUIDES
Borrow one of our GoPros
Our expert guides will help you
Destination-specific info,
on your diving holidays
really get under the skin
challenges and games for
of your destination
every child (aged 3-10)
FULLY PROTECTED
PERFECT PICKS
24 HOUR HELPLINE Things can go wrong;
Your holiday is fully protected
FUN, FUN, FUN PACKS
We provide you with a
we’re on call 24/7 to offer
destination-specific reading
assistance if required
list and music playlist
To view more about The Detail and relevant Terms and Conditions, visit www.originaldiving.com/why-choose-us
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100% CARBON OFF-SETTING
We are proud to off-set 100% of the carbon generated by our clients’ flights, transfers and car rentals, and have committed, as a group, nearly £5,000,000 since 2010. For further information see: originaltravel.co.uk/carbon-off-setting
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INTRODUCTION
THE ORIGINAL TRAVEL FOUNDATION We believe travel and tourism should positively affect the people in the destinations we visit.
Our Foundation, created in 2009, supports a number of humanitarian projects in developing countries in Africa, Asia and South America. Since 2009, nearly £1,150,000 has been invested in the support of over 250 humanitarian projects in 30 countries, focusing on five key areas: Child protection Vocational training Economic development assistance Preservation of cultural and natural heritage Safeguarding the lifestyles of indigenous peoples We also support emergency relief efforts in large natural and humanitarian disasters, spending almost 14% of our annual budget on emergency humanitarian aid.
SUNDARBANS
KENYA
JOSÉ MANUEL PANDO
Our Foundation aims to improve
BOLIVIA
Due to climate change, the number
the living conditions and educational
We’re working to improve the living
of mangroves in India’s Sundarbans
opportunities for the Maasai
conditions of village communities in
region is rapidly declining. Our project
population in Kenya by providing the
the province of José Manuel Pando,
aims to plant more than 16 million
following support: helping to set up
where 98% of the population live in
mangrove trees to protect the local
child sponsorship for schooling and
poverty. We support the ‘Weave the
communities’ homes and farmlands
school materials; providing literacy
Future’ project, which trains local
from flooding and to restore local
classes; conducting awareness
farmers to turn wool into high quality
biodiversity. So far 12,400 acres have
campaigns against FGM and HIV;
local crafts and textile products which
been replanted, impacting 250,000
and building a safe drinking water
they can sell to improve their income.
local people, and counteracting
MASAI MARA
dispensary for a village of 80 people.
WEST BENGAL, INDIA
750,000 tonnes of CO2.
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INTRODUCTION
ABOVE THE WATER When you’re not diving, we also specialise in a wide range of other holiday types. Whether you’re after a family adventure or a last-minute Big Short Break, Original Travel can tailor-make something just for you. For more inspiration visit originaltravel.co.uk/collections
FAMILY
BIG SHORT BREAKS
CITY BREAKS
SABBATICALS
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INTRODUCTION
Top to bottom, left to right:
⚫ A Big Short Break in Marrakech, Morocco ⚫ Hiking in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile ⚫ A family sailing holiday, Greece ⚫ Piazza Maggiore, Bologna, Italy
⚫ Road trip in Utah, USA ⚫ A honeymoon in Rajasthan and Agra, India ⚫ Heli-skiing in Monte Rosa, Italy ⚫ Elephants in the Serengeti National Park, Tanzania ⚫ Villa Mangiacane in Tuscany, Italy
ROAD TRIPS
WINTER SPORTS
PRIVATE HIRE PROPERTIES
SAFARI HONEYMOONS
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MARINE LIFE
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MARINE LIFE
MARINE
LIFE
Whether you’re a lover of the bigger stuff or are in the ‘good things come in small packages’ camp (or, like us, love both), discover a deeper cut of some of the must-sees under the sea. +44 (0) 20 3911 0430 | 13
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MARINE LIFE
WHALE SHARKS There’s nothing quite like seeing a fish the size of a bus to cut you down to size. And yet, these docile dotted giants capture the hearts of divers the world over.
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MARINE LIFE
IN NUMBERS
6,000
litres
The volume of water a whale shark can process through its gills in an hour
ONE BIG FISH
ONE OF A KIND
It’s common knowledge that the humble
Much like a human’s fingerprint, each
whale shark is the biggest fish in the
whale shark’s distinctive stripe and spot
ocean, but the largest officially recorded
pattern is unique to the individual. This
(by the boffins at The Guinness Book of
allows scientists to identify, track and
Records) weighed a humongous 21.5
monitor whale sharks and thus create
tons and was 42ft long, which is, indeed,
population models for international
about the size of a bus.
conservation efforts.
“The whale sharks in the Galapagos were the biggest I’ve ever seen. Research is still underway to discover why they congregate here during the summer months, but 90% appear to be pregnant” Amy Cooper, Original Diving Specialist
3,000
The number of whale sharks tiny ‘teeth’, but as filter feeders they don’t use them, instead filtering plankton through their gills (as well as squid, krill and small fish)
100
>
countries
Whale sharks have been spotted in tropical and warm temperate waters around the world, but tend to congregate seasonally in places where coral and fish spawning occur, such as at Australia’s Ningaloo Reef from March to April
70
years
The average whale shark lifespan, although they can live to 100
3
mph
A whale shark’s average speed. They swim by swaying their bodies from side to side while other sharks just use their tails
MYSTERIES OF THE DEEP
UNDER THREAT
Whale sharks are ovoviviparous, meaning
Whale sharks are currently listed as
that they produce eggs which hatch
endangered, with the main threat to
internally before being born live. Amazingly,
these gentle giants being the growth of
this was only discovered in 1995 after a
unregulated and unsustainable fisheries
pregnant female was caught off the coast
to supply international trade demands
of Taiwan – no-one has ever actually
for shark fins, skin, meat and liver oil.
witnessed a whale shark giving birth.
< 10%
The estimated number of whale sharks that survive to adulthood. After giving birth, the mother will leave her young to fend for themselves
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MARINE LIFE
HAMMERHEADS Whether witnessing a solitary silhouette or a school of hundreds, these peculiar-headed species are the gold standard of sightings in any diver’s log book, yet they are also some of the most elusive. Luckily, we know the best places to spot them. 16 | originaldiving.com
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MARINE LIFE
SCHOOL OF THOUGHT
SURROUND VISION
While many sharks prefer solitude,
Thanks to the positioning of their eyes
scalloped hammerheads can be found
on the tips of their heads it is impossible
in schools numbering multiple hundreds.
to sneak up on a hammerhead. They have
While the exact reason is unknown,
360-degree vision, allowing them to scan
scientists speculate that it might
an area more quickly than other sharks.
relate to their migration patterns or
BORN READY
mating habits.
Hammerheads are viviparous, meaning
HAMMER-TIME
pups develop while still in the uterus
A hammerhead’s oddly shaped head isn’t
and feed on the mother’s placenta
just for decoration, they are equipped
until they are ready to be born. A great
with sensors to help scan the seabed
hammerhead’s gestation period generally
for food, their meal of choice being
lasts 11 months, after which they can
stingrays. Once they find them they
give birth to a litter of anything between
pin them down with their heads and
12 and 40 pups.
then eat them bite by bite.
“There’s nothing quite like looking up at the silhouettes of hundreds of scalloped hammerheads out in the blue. They are a circumglobal migratory species, coming together in these huge schools in areas such as Malpelo, Socorro, the Galapagos, Cocos and the Red Sea” Amy Cooper, Original Diving Specialist
IN NUMBERS
1,000
lbs
The average weight of a fully grown great hammerhead
30
years
Their average life span
20
ft
The maximum length of a fully- grown great hammerhead
17
attacks
In the last 450 years, none of which have been fatal. Falling coconuts, on the other hand, cause about 150 deaths annually
9
The number of known hammerhead species, namely winghead, scalloped bonnethead, whitefin, scalloped, scoophead, great, bonnethead, smalleye and smooth
4
The number of hammerhead species that are currently threatened with extinction. Humans are their biggest threat
1
The bonnethead hammerhead is the only shark species capable of asexual reproduction
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MARINE LIFE
CORAL Picture this: a kaleidoscope of colourful corals, from gargantuan brain corals to gently swaying fan corals, haloed by schools of dancing anthias and preened by peckish parrotfish. An olive ridley turtle might even glide past. These are the cities of the ocean.
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MARINE LIFE
IN NUMBERS
500
m years
The oldest coral fossils. Although early corals are different from those we see today, corals are - by far - the oldest animals in existence
1,400
miles
The length of the Great Barrier Reef, the world’s longest coral reef
A COLOURFUL COMMUNITY
THE SANDS OF TIME
Corals are actually colonies of tiny
Best not to think about it too much,
animals called polyps that live in the
but the white sandy beaches that
warm shallows of coastal waters around
characterise the world’s most paradisal
the world. While polyps are actually
destinations are actually made of
translucent, they have a symbiotic
parrotfish poo. Parrotfish nibble on
partnership with zooxanthellae algae,
corals to digest the algae, excreting
which gives them their vibrant colours.
the remaining coral as sand – with a single parrotfish producing as much
THE UNDERWATER AMAZON
as 200 pounds of sand a year.
Rivalling the Amazon rainforest, coral reefs are some of the most biodiverse
ADAPTING TO SURVIVE
ecosystems on the planet. Home to
The coral in Raja Ampat in Indonesia
25% of all marine life they are a source
is thought to have developed a greater
of food and shelter, and a nursery for
resilience to water temperature change,
a plethora of juvenile marine animals
protecting itself from the bleaching we
which later make their way to the big
so sadly see in other areas of the world.
blue world beyond.
“Apo Island in the Philippines has been a protected marine sanctuary since 1982 and at present the island is home to over 400 species of corals, which can be seen by snorkellers and divers alike. Diving there you can appreciate the kaleidoscopic reefs and imagine how diving used to be before the effects of coral bleaching – it is quite the sight to behold” India Tyndall, Original Diving Specialist
20–32ºc
The optimum water temperature range for corals
8
inches
The rate at which the fastest growing coral - staghorn coral - grows a year
5
inches
3
types
The diameter of the largest coral polyps, which are found in mushroom corals. Typically, coral polyps are less than half an inch in diameter
Fringing reefs grow in shallow coastal waters; barrier reefs are large continuous reefs separated from land by a lagoon; atolls grow on top of seamounts, resulting in ring-shaped reefs near the sea’s surface
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MARINE LIFE
HUMPBACK WHALES Whether witnessing the casual fl ick of a tail or a gravity-defying breach, the tenderness of a mother leading her calf or the soothing serenades during mating season, to dive or snorkel with a humpback is one of life’s magical moments. 20 | originaldiving.com
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MARINE LIFE
IN NUMBERS
“While on a kayaking trip in South Africa’s Plettenberg Bay, I found myself alongside a humpback whale trying to intrude on an intimate moment between two southern right whales! The humpback was enjoying a pit stop while on its way to Mozambique to breed and calve” Lizzie Barry, Original Diving Specialist
80,000
The estimated global population of humpback whales
5,000
miles
How far some humpback populations migrate each year – one of the longest migrations of all species
90%
The amount of time spent beneath the surface
A RICH REPERTOIRE
EFFICIENT EATERS
Providing a never-ending symphony
Humpbacks are one of 12 species of
in the sea, males will sing complex,
baleen whale, characterised by their
wide-ranging songs for hours on end,
filter feeding plates and two blowholes.
which scientists believe is used to
To eat, they take huge gulps of water
communicate with other males and
which is filtered through the baleens and
attract a mate.
blown back out through the blowholes, leaving the fish behind for digestion.
TEAM PLAYERS Humpback whales know the value of
BIG WINGS
teamwork. Hunting in groups, they will
While this gentle giant derives its
blow bubbles to herd fish into a tight
common name from the distinctive hump
ball ripe for the taking, eating as much
on its back, the humpback’s scientific
as 3,000 pounds a day. This hunting
name Megaptera (meaning ‘big-winged’
technique is known as bubble-netting.
in Greek) is due to its huge pectoral fins.
60
ft
The length of a fully-grown humpback whale
50
years
Their average lifespan
40
tonnes
The whopping weight of a fully-grown humpback whale
5
years
The age a female humpback reaches maturity, males reach maturity at seven years of age
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MARINE LIFE
MANTA RAYS Meet the ocean’s greatest acrobats. Seeing a manta ray swoop, flip and ‘fly’ through the deep blue is a guaranteed showstopper on any dive. 22 | originaldiving.com
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MARINE LIFE
SPOT THE DIFFERENCE
BRAINIACS
Manta rays can be individually identified
Extraordinarily brainy (literally – they
by the unique spots on their bellies.
have the largest brains of all fish), manta
Using photo identification, scientists
rays are the first fish to have passed the
are then able to see where they have
mirror test, which is widely used to study
previously been recorded, which helps
self-awareness. Human children tend to
with conservation programmes.
fail this test until they are at least oneand-a-half years old.
PLASTIC NOT-SOFANTASTIC
JUST THE TWO OF US
Although the full effects of plastic
There are currently two species of
pollution on manta rays and other filter
manta ray identified - reef mantas
feeders is still unknown, microplastics
and giant oceanic mantas, although
can block nutrient absorption and
scientists are studying populations
damage a manta’s digestive tract.
in different oceans to see if there
Scientists also speculate that plastic
are further separate species.
accumulation over decades could lead to altered growth and development, and reduced reproductive capacity.
IN NUMBERS
4.8
m years
While it’s estimated that manta rays evolved 20 million years ago, the fossil records of true mantas date back to about 4.8 million years
50
years
Their average lifespan
60
lbs
The weight of small fish and plankton consumed per day
25-30
The estimated number of male mantas that join the ‘mating train’ – following the female in a line until she picks one to mate with
21
ft
The average wingspan of a fully-grown oceanic manta ray, while reef mantas grow to around 15ft
“In nearly 20 years of diving, my best underwater experience still has to be finding myself in the middle of a manta feeding frenzy in Hanifaru Bay in the Maldives. Between June and November, the tide and current turn this small bay into a plankton soup, attracting hundreds of mantas who perform the most incredible underwater acrobatics” Louisa Fisher, Head of Original Diving
2
tonnes
The weight of a fully-grown oceanic manta ray, while reef mantas weigh around one-and-a-half tonnes
2
The number of pups, born every other year, per female
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MARINE LIFE
TURTLES From the patter of tiny turtle fl ippers as they race to the sea, to spotting an adult casually cruising through the blue and, finally, seeing the determined digging of a mother laying her eggs, we can help you see the full circle of life of these relaxed reptiles.
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MARINE LIFE
IN NUMBERS
100
m years
Sea turtles are some of the world’s oldest creatures
10,000
miles
The distance a leatherback turtle can travel in a year
THE CIRCLE OF LIFE
THE HUMAN THREAT
From the moment they leave the beach
Six out of the seven species of giant
as hatchlings, turtles will not touch land
turtle are now classified as endangered,
again until females return to the very
due to them being caught as by-catch
same beach to hatch their own young
(particularly in longline and purse seine
which, depending on the species, could
fishing), to habitat loss and consumption
be between ten and 50 years later.
of their eggs and meat.
Males never return to land.
SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST
SEX – IT’S A TEMPERATURE THING
While a female will lay up to 150 eggs
The temperature of the sand will
every two to three years, very few will
determine the hatchling’s gender. Warmer
make it to adulthood. Whether running
temperatures will generate females while
the gauntlet from nest to water or
cooler temperatures generate males.
facing the predators of the open ocean,
While the optimum temperature for an
only around one hatchling in every
equal ratio differs between species and
thousand survives.
location, climate change has seen an increasing number of females.
“On a charter trip in Raja Ampat the crew treated us to a surprise candlelight barbecue on a secluded beach. Half way through our feast, a weary green turtle heaved her way up the beach to dig a hole and lay her eggs under the stars. This was the exact same beach she had struggled to the water from as a hatchling herself, some 20 years ago, and the fi rst time she’d made landfall since!” India Tyndall, Original Diving Specialist
660– 1,100
lbs
The weight of a fully-grown leatherback turtle, the largest ever recorded weighed 1,980 pounds
1,000
mtrs
The depth leatherback turtles can dive in search of jellyfish. Unlike other species, leatherbacks lack a rigid breastbone and their leathery shell absorbs nitrogen, reducing decompression issues
60
bones
A turtle’s shell is actually part of its skeleton and includes its rib cage and spine. The bones are covered by plates made of keratin (the same substance as humans fingernails)
7
species
Which are leatherback, green sea, loggerhead, hawksbill, kemp’s ridley, olive ridley and flatback
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MARINE LIFE
SHARKS Thanks to Jaws, sharks are the most iconic yet most misunderstood creatures beneath the waves. And as lovers of all things subaqueous we’re going to hop aboard our soap box and spout our merry manifesto in support of these mysterious, magnificent hunters. 26 | originaldiving.com
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MARINE LIFE
ELECTRO-CITY
JUST KEEP SWIMMING
Sharks are literally wired for hunting.
For many sharks, movement is a
Using electrosensitive organs called
matter of life and death as they need
(rather gloriously) ampullae of Lorenzini,
to continually pass water over their
sharks are able to detect small electrical
gills to breathe. Nurse and lemon sharks
pulses from the muscle movements
are two of the exceptions as they have
of other organisms, enabling them to
powerful neck muscles that can pump
detect prey. Some experts believe this
water over their gills while stationary.
electro-sensitivity also allows them to navigate the globe.
A WALKING SHARK The epaulette shark, or ‘walking shark’,
A SHARK’S ARMOUR
is able to use its pectoral and pelvic fins
A shark’s skin is made up of miniature
to walk on reefs. Paired with its ability
interlocked teeth called dermal denticles
to survive for short periods of time with
which bristle like fur and push water
little or no oxygen, this means it can
down the shark with less drag, allowing
hunt in shallow pools, even at low tides.
these predators to move quickly and quietly – the ultimate silent killer.
IN NUMBERS
450
m years
The amount of time sharks have been patrolling the world’s oceans
100
m
The estimated number of sharks killed by the fishing industry every year
3,000
ft
The distance at which sharks can hear their prey, despite their ears being inside their heads
440
species
Currently identified, however new species are being discovered almost every year
315
teeth
Across seven rows. Sharks lose their teeth regularly, going through as many as 30,000 in their lifetime
“I’ve never seen so many sharks as in Socorro [off Mexico]. I saw six species (whale, silky, whitetip, silvertip, Galapagos and hammerhead) and lots of them on every dive. Socorro forms part of a large migration corridor for sharks and mantas in the Pacific and the islands are thought to be such an aggregation point due to the nutrient rich waters.” Lauren Nelson, Original Diving Specialist
10
ft
The height a great white shark can propel itself out of the water to catch its prey
3½
years
The estimated gestation period of a frilled shark – needless to say it is the longest pregnancy of all shark species
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MARINE LIFE
NUDIBRANCHS For the uninitiated, the idea of marine slugs might conjure up images of slimy green blobs plaguing reefs, but this couldn’t be further from the truth. Psychedelic and all-round marvellous, nudibranchs are some of the ocean’s most interesting inhabitants.
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MARINE LIFE
YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT
HERMAPHRODITES
Nudibranchs derive their vibrant colours
Nudibranchs possess both male and
from the food they eat. The distinctive
female reproductive organs. When
hues are then used as camouflage or
mating they perform a dance-like
even as repellent because some retain
courtship before fertilising each other,
the toxins they ingest. Blue dragon
then both lay eggs in a ribbon-like
nudibranchs, for instance, eat the
spiral which can vary from one egg
stinging cells of Portuguese man o’ war
to well over 25 million.
and store them as ammunition.
SOME ARE VEGAN… SOME AREN’T
SENSE OF SURROUNDINGS Known as rhinophores, the two horns located on a nudibranch’s head are
Some nudibranchs are solar-powered,
chemical receptors used to find food
harvesting algae from coral and then
and a mate. Like a tortoise’s head, they
storing it to derive energy from light
can be withdrawn into their bodies for
via photosynthesis. And the others?
protection.
Well, some are cannibals.
“I like to think of nudibranchs as the ‘jewels of the ocean’, coming in all the colours of the rainbow. My favourite dive site for nudibranchs is Nudi Falls in the Lembeh Strait, where I once counted 11 different species, including my personal favourite, the bright purple Hypselodoris bullockii” Louisa Fisher, Head of Original Diving
IN NUMBERS
20
>
million
The number of eggs laid by certain types of nudibranchs, generally in coiled ribbons. Most nudibranchs don’t live longer than a year, so laying this number of eggs is essential
3,000
The estimated total number of species worldwide, although new species are still being discovered
2,500
mtr
The deepest, in metres, that a nudibranch has been recorded, although they are most abundant in shallow waters
200
species
Of nudibranchs have been discovered in Northern Sulawesi’s Lembeh Strait, to date
20
inches
The largest nudibranch ever recorded, the Spanish Dancer, found in the Red Sea
1
week –
1
year
The lifespan of various species of nudibranchs
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MARINE LIFE
WHERE TO GO WHEN DIVING It’s time to don your mask and dive in to explore some of our favourite dive destinations across the world. originaldiving.com/collections
MONTH
REGION
COUNTRY Tanzania
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Africa
Mozambique
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Madagascar
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Indonesia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Philippines
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Asia
Australasia & Pacific Islands
Australia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
French Polynesia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Fiji
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Papua New Guinea
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Micronesia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Palau
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Caribbean
Caribbean
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Iceland
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Europe
Azores
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Gozo & Malta
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Indian Ocean
Latin America
Middle East
KEY
BEST TIME T0 GO
Maldives
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Seychelles
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Belize
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mexico
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Costa Rica
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Ecuador & Galapagos
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Egypt
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Oman
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
DECENT TIME TO GO
NOT A GOOD TIME T0 GO
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MARINE LIFE
MARINE WILDLIFE With so many dive destinations across the globe, it can be difficult to work out where best to see particular varieties of marine life. So here is a (by no means exhaustive) guide to some of the most notable marine life. originaldiving.com/collections/tribes
SPECIES
COUNTRY
Whales
Whale Sharks
Hammerheads
Manta and Mobula Rays
Turtle hatching
MONTH
Australia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
French Polynesia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mexico
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mozambique
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Australia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Galapagos
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Indonesia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Maldives
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mexico
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mozambique
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Tanzania
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Bahamas
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Cocos Islands
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
French Polynesia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Galapagos
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Australia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Azores
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Galapagos
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Indonesia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Maldives
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mexico
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mozambique
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Australia
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Caribbean
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Maldives
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mexico
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mozambique
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Oman
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Tanzania
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
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MARINE LIFE
A SPECIES SPECTRUM
Top to bottom, left to right:
From the massive to the minute, here are some more of our favourite marine species to grace the ocean...
⚫ Anemonefish eggs, Southern Red Sea, Egypt
⚫ Pom pom crab, Alor, Indonesia ⚫ Ocean sunfish (Mola Mola), East Bali, Indonesia ⚫ Mandarin fish mating ritual, Milne Bay, Papua New Guinea ⚫ Porcelain crab, Maldives
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JUST ONE OF OUR MANY ADDITIONAL SERVICES...
BORROW A GO-PRO Borrow one of our GoPros on your diving holidays
To find out more about The Detail and relevant Terms and Conditions, see page six or visit www.originaldiving.com/why-choose-us
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FEATURE | ALPHONSE
MAPPING OUT ALPHONSE If you were to study a map, we bet our bottom dollar you wouldn’t spot Alphonse or the Aldabra group of islands. And yet these remote atolls in the Seychelles, with their wild, uninhabited islands and virtually virgin waters, have quietly played host to some of the most iconic marine species to grace the oceans. 34 | originaldiving.com
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ALPHONSE | FEATURE
A bird’s-eye view of Alphonse
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FEATURE | ALPHONSE
AMAZING ALPHONSE Some of the first scuba exploration was conducted in the Aldabra Group (by Jacques-Yves Cousteau, no less), and with world-class dive sites still being discovered, not much has changed in the years since. As a rule, the more remote you go
Diving here means being submerged
And while the regular sightings are
the ‘fishier’ a place becomes, and
in a blizzard of marine life, from
extraordinary in themselves, it’s the
the Aldabra Group in the Seychelles -
plumes of barracudas and colourful
surprise encounters that truly trump,
located some 700 miles south of the
clouds of anthias to dogtooth tunas,
from thresher sharks at 14 metres
main island of Mahé and comprised of
wahoos, dorados and sailfish, to
to a pod of over 1,000 melon-headed
the Cosmoledo and Aldabra Atolls, as
name but a few. Focus your eyes
whales; glimpsing a passing
well as the islands of Assumption and
beyond the buzz and glimpse
hammerhead at the beginning of
Astove - is about as remote as you can
impressive coral colonies - some
a dive to climbing back on the boat
get. Alphonse, further north but still
several thousand years old - that
by a breaching humpback whale.
some 250 miles south of Mahé and
flourish in gardens and cling to
None of this is guaranteed, of course,
located in the Amirante Islands, is
dramatic drop-offs set against
but the real rule here is to expect
wonderfully remote too.
the deep blue.
the unexpected.
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ALPHONSE | FEATURE
Cosmoledo Island Mahé Alphonse Island 250 miles
30 miles 397 miles Astove Island
A map of Alphonse island and the remote Aldabra Group. NB: Not to scale
A large tawny nurse shark photographed by our client Horacio
“During the trip we saw humpback whales from the surface; dived with dolphins; saw bull, nurse, grey, black tip and guitar sharks and swam with more turtles than I could count. Not only did we see the first whale shark they’d ever seen at Alphonse, but we were treated to two on one dive. It was like the Maldives on steroids” Horacio, a happy client +44 (0) 20 3911 0430 | 37
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FEATURE | ALPHONSE
While you’re here, WHY NOT… In a place this beautiful, we can think of worse ways to spend surface intervals…
1
SWIM WITH THE USAIN BOLT OF FISH Set sail from Alphonse into the deep blue to swim with the fastest fish in the ocean,
the sailfish. Attracted to a lure trailed from the back of the boat, you can snorkel with these magnificent fish as they rocket past, spectacular dorsal fins raised, at lightning speeds. At 70 miles per hour, it might be hard to keep up.
2
REEL IT IN This is one of the world’s premier destinations for saltwater fly fishing, so head out with an expert guide to
catch (using barbless hooks) bluefin trevallies, permit, milkfish and giant trevallies (which you might remember from Blue Planet II), before releasing them back into the wild.
3
BECOME A CONSERVATIONIST Conservation runs through the veins of the Seychelles, so whether you’re
turtle tracking or surveying manta rays, feeding giant tortoises or planting mangroves, you can develop a deeper understanding of this region’s natural wonders while helping protect and preserve its extraordinary biodiversity.
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ALPHONSE | FEATURE
4
CASTAWAY FOR A DAY Become gloriously marooned on the uninhabited island of St Francois, exploring mangroves for exotic birds
and seeking out nursing sicklefin lemon sharks in the shallows. As evening approaches, snorkel with manta rays as you cruise back to Alphonse.
5
CONTEMPLATE THE UNIVERSE Benefit from being the only people staying at the splendidly isolated
Cosmoledo Eco-lodge on Wizard Island, the only lodge in the atoll and entirely devoid of any light pollution. This is a real Robinson Crusoe experience.
6
THE DAZZLING DISPLAYS OF BIRDS Over 250 different species of bird, both migratory and
endemic, have been officially recorded across the protected lagoons, flats, and coconut and mangrove forests of the Outer Islands. Armed with binoculars and an eagle-eyed guide, spot red-footed boobies, Madagascar turtle-doves and so much more.
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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...
...FOR ORIGINAL DIVING If you like to spin the globe, roll the dice or step into the unknown (you get the gist), awaken your sense of adventure with these bucket list dive destinations.
ICELAND
THE AZORES, PORTUGAL SOLOMON ISLANDS
If we told you it’s possible to travel
An archipelago of nine wild islands
Located at the far extremes of the
from America to Europe in seconds
scattered across the mid-Atlantic,
eastern corner of the Pacific Ocean’s
you’d think us barmy. But not in
the Azores are a cross-over point for
Coral Triangle, the Solomon Islands
Iceland. Home to one of the most
both ecological zones and seasonal
boast a staggering variety of corals,
original dive sites in the world, Silfra
migrations, with over 100 seamounts
marine species and world-class dive
is a freshwater fissure formed by the
providing an oasis in the deep ‘desert’
sites, yet this remains one of the least
divergence of the North American and
of the subtropical north Atlantic.
dived areas in the world. Set sail
Eurasian tectonic plates. The site is
Consequently, these islands have
on an epic liveaboard cruise to the
filled with glacial meltwater that has
emerged as a magnet for marine life,
most remote corners to dive over
been filtered, over hundreds of years,
and if you’re lucky enough to get to
supersized, ancient corals, steep
through the underground porous
the sites 40 nautical miles offshore you
walls and WWII Japanese wrecks,
volcanic rock, resulting in water so
might spot whales, mantas and blue or
spotting the full spectrum of marine
fresh and clear that visibility often
mako sharks. If the sea is too rough (this
life – from pelagic fish and predators
exceeds 100 metres.
is in the mid-Atlantic, after all) the local
to reef species and macro life galore.
sites are also some of the best in Europe.
All without another soul in sight.
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JUST ONE OF OUR MANY ADDITIONAL SERVICES...
FAST-TRACK SERVICES At UK airports, we’ll whisk you through check-in and the security queues
To find out more about The Detail and relevant Terms and Conditions, see page six or visit www.originaldiving.com/why-choose-us
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FEATURE | SOCORRO
WHERE THE
BIG THINGS ARE
There are very few places in the world where you are virtually guaranteed to dive with dolphins, both species of manta ray, enormous bait balls and a staggering ten species of shark. And there’s only one place where, depending on the month, spotting whale sharks, humpback whales and hundreds of hammerheads is a very real possibility. Introducing the Revillagigedo Archipelago (better known as Socorro). 42 | originaldiving.com
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SOCORRO | FEATURE
A humpback whale disappears into the deep, captured by Jorge Hauser
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FEATURE | SOCORRO
San Benedicto Island, captured by Rodrigo Friscione
A FISHY AFFAIR Whirlpools of bigeye jacks, leather
that make up the Revillagigedo
bass and Creole-fish swarm around
Archipelago, North America’s largest
a central rocky outcrop where
marine reserve. Located some 280
octopuses and moray eels hunt in
miles south of the tip of Mexico’s Baja
cracks and crevices. Bottlenose
California, it takes a full day’s voyage
dolphins click and cruise in the
to reach the archipelago, and while the
surrounding current while lazy
islands themselves aren’t much to look
whitetip reef sharks rest on its ledges.
at, beneath the waves is where the
Giant oceanic manta rays swoop
magic happens. A fortunate conflation
inches above to feel your escaping
of currents has resulted in this region
bubbles tickle their underbellies while
having some of the highest biomass
a whale shark slinks into the deep.
of marine life per square mile in the
And all this going on to a thunderous
world. In fact, this corner of the globe
soundtrack of white, foamy waves
is so special that Mission Blue, the
crashing into the pinnacle. Just your
conservation brainchild of legendary
average dive in Socorro, then.
Oceanographer Sylvia Earle, declared
Hidden in the depths of the remote
Clockwise from above: A school of silkies, captured by Rodrigo Friscione A bottlenose dolphin posing A diver’s bubbles tickle a manta’s tummy
it a ‘hope spot’, imperative to the
Eastern Tropical Pacific Ocean,
health of the ocean. Teeming with life,
Socorro is the largest of four islands
this is where the big fish gather.
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SOCORRO | FEATURE
EL BOILER WHERE: San Benedicto Island WHAT: With steep sides
resembling furrowed concrete, this large extinct volcano rises dramatically from a 50 metre shelf to within two metres (at low tide) of the ocean surface TO SEE: This is the best site in the world for closeup interactions with giant pacific mantas. Not to mention pods of playful resident bottlenose dolphins (insider tip: mimic their movements and they will come in for a closer look). Peer into the big blue and you might, depending on the month, also spot whale sharks and schooling scalloped hammerheads alongside the regulars (Galapagos sharks, whitetips, silkies… the list goes on).
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FEATURE | SOCORRO
Roca Partida
ROCA PARTIDA WHERE: 93 miles south-west of San Benedicto Island WHAT : A solitary lump of rock rising
from a plateau of 80 metres, jutting 32 metres above the crashing waves in the shape of a humpback whale tail TO SEE: A magnet for marine life, here you’ll see enormous schools of pelagic fish including yellowfin tuna and wahoo alongside scalloped hammerheads, whitetips, silkies, Galapagos sharks, giant mantas, dolphins and even humpbacks passing through from Alaska (from January to April)
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SOCORRO | FEATURE
CLARIÓN ISLAND APPROX 180 MILES San Benedicto Island
Roca Partida Island
REVILLAGIGEDO NATIONAL PARK
CALIFORNIA CURRENT
MEXICO
Socorro Island
EQUITORIAL CURRENT
PACIFIC OCEAN
AVERAGE WATER TEMP
25°C
AVERAGE VISIBILITY
DIVE QUALIFICATION
27M
ADVANCED
Socorro Island Season ...................
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Largest biomass of animals...........
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mantas..................................
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Bottlenose dolphins.............
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Whale sharks........................
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
BEST TIME TO DIVE
Humpback whales ...............
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
DECENT TIME TO DIVE
Baitball Season....................
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
NOT A GOOD TIME TO DIVE
Up to 10 species of shark ..
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
WHAT TO SEE WHEN
CONVERGENCE OF CURRENTS
MARINE STATS
A HOPE SPOT
The four islands are located where
At least 366 species of fish - including
Covering 57,000 square miles, the
the cold waters of the California
26 endemic species and 37 species of
Revillagigedo Archipelago is North
Current converge with the warm
sharks and rays - call this area home,
America’s largest ocean reserve.
waters of the North Equatorial
including one of the world’s largest
Designated in 2017, the marine park
Current, creating upwellings that
populations of oceanic manta rays. Not
safeguards biodiversity by boosting
bring nutrients from the bottom of
to forget the migratory species (think:
ecotourism and prohibiting fishing,
the ocean to the surface.
whales, more sharks and tuna) that
mining and new hotels.
also pass by to rest, feed and breed.
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FEATURE | SOCORRO
While you’re here, WHY NOT… Make the most of everything that marvellous Mexico has to offer...
1
SURF’S UP IN OAXACA While Oaxaca is most famous for its Day of the Dead festival and handicrafts, the golden beaches of Puerto Escondido are
a must-visit for those wanting to learn to surf. Or simply sit back and watch the pros mastering the towering barrels and crashing waves of Playa Zicatela, immortalised in surfer folklore.
2
TACO-BOUT MEXICO CITY Whether tucking into a road side delicacy or indulging in the gourmet, fine-dining scene, Mexico City has the
full spread of culinary adventures. Eat your way around the city, one taco at a time, or pick up fresh goods at the local market before learning the tricks of the trade during a Mexican cookery class.
3
MEXICO’S GRAND CANYON Despite being a whopping four times larger and 1000ft deeper than the Grand Canyon, Copper Canyon remains
somewhat off-the-radar. Hop on the Chihuahua al Pacifico railway as it winds its way from the Sea of Cortez up through the Sierra Madre Mountains to Posadas Barrancas, which, on the rim of the canyon, is the perfect base to explore.
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SOCORRO | FEATURE
4
MEXICO’S SECRET RUINS Out-derring-do Indiana Jones by venturing along the winding Usumacinta River - the natural
border between Mexico and Guatemala - deep into the mist-shrouded jungles of southernly Chiapas. There, visit the ancient vine-covered ruins of Yaxchilan in delightful solitude, apart from the ear-splitting calls of the resident howler monkeys.
5
DISCOVER THE UNDERWORLD The Mayans believed that Yucatan’s cenotes (sinkholes) were portals to the
underworld. While you won’t encounter any human sacrifices nowadays, diving these freshwater sinkholes is one of the most exhilarating experiences imaginable - from labyrinths of stalagmites and stalactites to the shards of turquoise light that pierce the crystal-clear water - we like to think of them more as stairways to heaven.
6
THE WORLD’S AQUARIUM Affectionately referred to as ‘the aquarium of the world’ by none other than Jacques Cousteau, marine
encounters in the Sea of Cortez are legendary, whether dodging playful sea lions, witnessing
pods of orcas hunting or seasonal snorkelling with hundreds of mobula rays. Head out with our partners, who are all-round marine whisperers and the only operators to offer trips to snorkel with orcas.
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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...
...FOR EPIC MARINE ENCOUNTERS
FRENCH POLYNESIA
THE GALAPAGOS, ECUADOR
Swimming with humpback whales regularly tops the
Unless you’ve been living under a rock, chances
bucket list of divers and non-divers alike, but there
are you’ve heard of the Galapagos archipelago.
are only a handful of places in the world to swim with
Immortalised by Darwin’s On the Origin of Species,
these gentle giants, so it’s also one of the rarest
this chain of islands scattered across the equator
experiences. Luckily, humpbacks like to summer in
in the Pacific Ocean is frequented by just about all
turquoise lagoons, so if you visit Moorea between
the big fish – from hammerheads and manta rays
July and early November you can swim with them as
to whale sharks (June to November), as well as fur
they mate and calve, before island-hopping across
seals, sea lions, marine iguanas and Galapagos
French Polynesia to dive some of the world’s most
penguins - among the 20% of species here which are
famous sites. (You, not the humpbacks).
endemic. Set sail to the dive sites around Wolf and Darwin islands and prepare to fill log-books two-fold.
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SOCORRO | FEATURE
You’ll want to pack a couple of logbooks for these mad marine destinations…
COCOS ISLAND, COSTA RICA
BAHAMAS
Cocos Island’s aquatic calling card is sharks,
While the Bahamas might conjure wondrous images
sharks and more sharks, but especially scalloped
of pirates and booty, this archipelago harbours much
hammerheads, which you can witness in their
more valuable treasure in the form of the Caribbean’s
hundreds at the seamount Bajo Alcyone. Located
best shark diving. Whether diving with great
340 miles off Costa Rica in the Pacific, this site
hammerhead, bull and nurse sharks just 8m down
is only accessible by liveaboard, but it’s worth
(meaning longer bottom time) in Bimini, or spotting the
any seasickness to see the silhouettes of endless
striped predators at ‘Tiger Beach’ in Grand Bahama
hammerheads against the deep blue. For a truly
and Caribbean reef sharks carefully conserved by the
original experience, venture down 300 metres to
team at Stuart’s Cove on Nassau, the Bahamas is
‘The Wall’ in a deep sea submersible to seek out
wiping away any Jaws-inspired misconceptions about
the elusive prickly shark.
these misunderstood marine marvels.
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FEATURE | PAPUA NEW GUINEA
PSYCHEDELIC CORAL CITIES OF
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PAPUA NEW GUINEA | FEATURE
A marine sponge with crinoids
The best way to immerse yourself in a new destination is through its cities. These smorgasbords of exotic sights and sounds are brought alive by the intoxicating buzz of the local residents. Now picture a multicoloured marine city, where all walks (read: swims) of life survive and thrive surrounded by magnificent architectural wonders magnified against an ocean backdrop; these are the coral cities of the big blue. +44 (0) 20 3911 0430 | 53
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FEATURE | PAPUA NEW GUINEA
A KALEIDOSCOPE of CORALS Some of the very finest underwater
up of barrier reefs, coral walls,
heart of their communities, these
metropolises can be found in Papua
fringing reefs and sea grass beds,
magnificent building blocks harbour
New Guinea. These spectacular coral
so diving here is a psychedelic
clouds of equally kaleidoscopic reef
colonies enjoy a prime location within
experience.
fish, large nudibranchs with skirts
the Coral Triangle, but due to their
Drift past slender branches of
of eggs, spirals of a thousand
remoteness these bustling
towering red whip corals, knobbly
barracuda, sharks and turtles, and
underwater jungles have remained
blue sponges and jagged stag corals,
all in 40-plus metre visibility. And
largely unexplored. The good news
flower-like elephant ears, giant barrel
unlike the hustle and bustle of cities
is that we’re talking over 20,000
sponges and delicate soft corals, all
above the waves, you’ll have these
square miles of reef systems made
adorned with colourful crinoids. The
all to yourself.
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PAPUA NEW GUINEA | FEATURE
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FEATURE | PAPUA NEW GUINEA
DEACON’S REEF WHERE: Milne Bay WHAT : An incredible topography of towering
coral cliffs punctuated by a sheer drop-off extending beyond 300 metres TO SEE: The sheer variety of corals is staggering, from fields of sea fans and whips to bommies and coral towers – look out for passing giant trevallies and camouflaged macro critters among the motley crew of colourful corals
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PAPUA NEW GUINEA | FEATURE
VANESSA’S REEF WHERE: Kimbe Bay WHAT : The submerged shoulder
of a much larger reef that descends to a depth of 18m TO SEE: Dark red gorgonian sea fans so huge they could dwarf LeBron James (or any basketball player, for that matter) alongside sponge gardens draped in crinoids topped with hawkfish and commensal shrimp nestled in anemones
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FEATURE | PAPUA NEW GUINEA
While you’re here, WHY NOT… Few places inspire a sense of adventure quite like Papua New Guinea…
1
KAWARI RIVER, EAST SEPIK From touching down on a grass landing strip in the middle of the jungle to spotting the elusive twelve-wired bird-of-paradise in
the towering canopies, everything about the East Sepik Provence is surreal. Spend days meandering down the Karawari River, meeting locals in riverside villages and learning about their daily lives in this most remote region.
2
A TWITCHER’S DREAM: BIRD WATCHING IN NEW BRITAIN The island of New Britain, off the
eastern tip of PNG proper, is something of a geological hotspot and home to a wealth of endemic species including the New Britain buzzard, rufousfaced warbler and blue-eyed cockatoo. Head out at dawn or dusk, when the birds are most active, to spot these fluorescent feathered wonders in the forests – rest assured, there’s plenty to fit the, er, bill.
3
SKULL CAVE, MILNE BAY While it might not be everyone’s idea of fun, the Tawali skull caves, believed to be ancient burial grounds,
are worth a visit for a fascinating glimpse of the past. After visiting the caves, hike inland to cool off in secret waterfalls hidden in the rainforest. It’s all very Indiana Jones.
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PAPUA NEW GUINEA | FEATURE
4
KAYAK THROUGH FJORDS, TUFI Tufi is home to some of the most dazzling coastline we’ve come across.
Kayak along the coast past white-sandy beaches backed by virgin rainforest and through fjords that plunge over 100m into the ocean. Insider tip: remember your snorkel gear as you will glide over some spectacular coral outcrops.
5
TRIBAL TRADITION, MOUNT HAGEN Located 4,000ft up in the West Highlands province, Mount Hagen’s Melpa people
had no contact with the outside world until the 1930s. Today you can visit local villages for an insight into the area’s fascinating culture, which ranges from moka tribal ceremonies of exchange to the story of the mud men (we won’t give it away).
6
GARU HOT RIVER, NEW BRITAIN Soothe away any residual stresses in a steamy hot stream. Enveloped by the
towering trees and giant ferns of tropic jungle and fed by a volcanic spring, the Garu thermal river puts most ‘baths with a view’ to shame. For a complete spa experience, exfoliate using the natural red mud on the sandbanks before washing it off in the warm mini-waterfall.
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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...
…FOR CORAL DIVING Move over London, Paris, New York and Tokyo, these are the greatest cities on earth.
EGYPT
FIJI
BONAIRE
Boasting over 400 species of coral,
A narrow stretch of sea between
Located off Venezuela in the southern
the dive sites across the Red Sea
Vanua Levu and Taveuni, Somosomo
Caribbean, it is possible to dive from
are home to plunging, dramatic
Strait is fed by tidal currents providing
every corner of Bonaire, earning the
walls; caves, caverns and pinnacles.
ample nutrients for lush soft coral
island the unofficial title of ‘shore
The vivid explosions of soft and
growth across the walls, sloping reefs
diving capital of the world’. Whether
hard corals are matched only by
and pinnacles. From marvelling at the
you’re learning to dive or a seasoned
their equally technicolour residents.
multicoloured corals at the aptly
pro, all swims of life will appreciate
Even the wrecks (of which there are
named Rainbow Reef, Purple Wall and
the fantastic coral formations, from
many) are wrapped like presents in
Yellow Tunnel to descending down the
ginormous brain corals to piers and
rainbow coloured corals. Whether
luminescent white corals that drape
anchors adorned with colourful
diving from the shore or setting sail
the Great White Wall like a blanket of
sponges and corals. Plus, Bonaire is
to the far corners of this region on a
snow, the sheer variety of colours
located outside the hurricane belt so
liveaboard, you’re sure to enjoy this
across the strait is mind-boggling.
you can visit throughout the year.
aquatic kaleidoscope.
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JUST ONE OF OUR MANY ADDITIONAL SERVICES...
UK AIRPORT LOUNGE Enjoy the comfort of an airport lounge with free drinks and snacks, even if you're flying in economy
To find out more about The Detail and relevant Terms and Conditions, see page six or visit www.originaldiving.com/why-choose-us
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FEATURE | INDONESIA
SAIL AWAY WITH ME If you want to get truly off-the-grid and discover some of the most remote, pristine dive sites in the world, all the while upping the dive count, then liveaboard diving is the answer. Set sail for the islands of Indonesia for the best of the bunch.
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INDONESIA | FEATURE
Si Datu Bua, a traditional phinisi liveaboard
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FEATURE | INDONESIA
Top to bottom, left to right: Luxury liveaboard Tiger Blue sails through Raja Ampat Indonesia’s thriving reefs A black reef manta Weedy scorpionfish
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INDONESIA | FEATURE
EAT, SLEEP, DIVE, REPEAT When you set sail on your liveaboard to destinations unknown, and with a salty ocean breeze ruffling your hair, it’s hard to argue with the old proverb about the journey being as important as the destination. As your skipper plots his course between the most coveted diving destinations, a liveaboard cruise allow divers unparalleled opportunities to explore some of the finest dive sites in the world. And for the crème de la crème of liveaboard experiences, look no further than Indonesia. Located in the bullseye of the Coral Triangle and home to the world’s most biodiverse marine ecosystems, there are thousands upon thousands of world-class dive sites scattered across the region, all best explored aboard a phinisi (traditional Indonesian sailing boat). Whether your liveaboard is sailing around the favourites of Raja Ampat and Komodo, or exploring the lesser-known (but no less impressive) corners of Alor or the Banda islands, it’s not unusual to have entire reefs to yourself. Even better, the remoteness of these sites and limited human interaction means everything comes supersized. From table corals that could seat a dozen for dinner to vast cabbage patches, bulbous brains and highlighter shaded soft corals, all are blurred with bright flickers in every colour as huge shoals of fish dart about their daily lives. Above the surface, sweeping vistas reveal a time seemingly forgotten, with undisturbed glassy-watered bays and misty jungles exhaling thin clouds of smoke from hidden villages. Slip into a delicious routine of eat, sleep, dive, repeat as you delve a little deeper into Indonesia’s mind-boggling marine diversity.
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FEATURE | INDONESIA
INSIDER KNOWLEDGE:
DIVE GUIDE FERY An excellent dive guide makes all the difference to your trip and we know where to find them. We’ve been chatting to dive guide extraordinaire Fery from the Arenui on what makes liveaboard diving so special…
HOW DID YOU GET INTO DIVING?
YOUR BEST DIVING MOMENT
My father was a fisherman and when
WITH A GUEST?
I was a young child I used to join him
In 2018 we were diving from the
on his boat. I loved how colourful and
liveaboard Arenui in front of a little
beautiful all the different species of
village where they have an amazing
fish were and one day told my father
old wooden jetty. It is home to all kinds
‘I will never kill or eat another fish’.
of fish and marine life from schooling
I decided to find a job to try and
giant sweetlips to giant clams,
protect all the fish in the ocean and
surgeon fishes, fusiliers, green turtles
soon had the opportunity to start
and much more. It was the last day
diving, which changed my life forever.
of the trip and we decided to do a shallow early morning dive at five
WHERE HAVE YOU DIVED?
metres depth. As soon as we went
Manado, Lembeh and Bunaken in
under the jetty it was full of life with
North Sulawesi, Komodo, Alor, Banda
hundreds of fishes, and we started
Sea, Triton Bay, Ambon and Raja Ampat.
diving through them when suddenly all the fishes start swimming like
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE
crazy and after a few seconds they
DIVE SITE AND WHY?
were gone. Then a bull shark came
Magic Mountain in Misool has an
and swam very gently under the
incredible diversity of life, from pygmy
jetty in three metres of water and
seahorses and nudibranchs to giant
one metre from us. This was my first
and reef mantas, sharks, dolphins and
time ever seeing that kind of shark
even whale sharks. After many years
and after dozens more dives in that
diving there I still enjoy it just as much
spot since I am still looking for him!
as the first time – anything can happen there, which is why we call it ‘magic’!
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INDONESIA | FEATURE
WHAT DO YOU DO TO MAKE THE TRIP
WHY DO YOU THINK A LIVEABOARD
TOP TIP WHEN DIVING
SO SPECIAL FOR YOUR GUESTS?
IS A GOOD WAY TO DIVE?
FROM A LIVEABOARD?
For me it is very important to make all
Diving from a liveaboard is the best
Once you are on a liveaboard and
my guests happy and there are a few
way to explore an entire area and go
you start the trip you need to think
things I always do to make sure every
to places where only a few people
about how far from the city you will
single diver has the best trip of their
have been before. Every morning
be for many days. If something fails
life. First, safety is very important for
when you wake up you are in a new
on your dive equipment you can’t get
me, so I always do a briefing before we
area and the dive sites are different.
the proper spare part, so it’s very
go underwater, explaining how deep
You don’t need to do long speedboat
important to carry a spare battery
we will go, in which direction and
rides because the liveaboard will be
for your dive computer, new straps
where the currents are on that dive
there and if the conditions are not
for your mask or fins and even a
site. During the dive I keep a constant
good in one place then you travel all
whole extra mask!
eye on them to make sure there is
night and the next morning you are
no problem. The second thing is
100 miles away and you may find the
protecting and respecting the marine
perfect conditions. One day you can
Visit our website to discover
life. I want to show the beauty of the
enjoy diving with mantas and pelagic
Indonesia’s most luxurious
reef but at the same time I explain to
fish, then the next day you can be
them how important it is to avoid
diving for macro life and the next day
touching or damaging the coral. If I
you are diving along walls covered
see one of them trying to get a photo
with colourful corals and tons of reef
of something and there is coral nearby
fish. Basically, staying on the Arenui is
I make sure they will not damage it.
like being on a floating five star hotel
The other thing I always do from the
and diving five star dive sites every day!
first second until the last one is to keep
liveaboards: originaldiving.com/collections/ luxury-indonesia-liveaboards Images from left to right, top to bottom: elephant ear coral, epaulette shark, squat shrimp, anemonefish, sea fan corals, juvenile boxfish, tassled wobbegong shark
looking for the things my guests want to see and to make sure everybody sees them and can get good photos.
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FEATURE | INDONESIA
While you’re here, WHY NOT… Whether surfing in Sumba, biking through Bali, lounging in Lombok or eating just about everywhere, Indonesia has something for everyone.
1
PADDLEBOARD THE PASSAGE, RAJA AMPAT Follow the path of legendary explorer Alfred Russel Wallace when paddle boarding in
the crystal clear waters of Hidden Bay - aptly hidden by towering limestone karsts - before continuing along the winding waterway between Waigeo and Gam Islands spotting rainbow-shaded soft corals among the mangroves.
2
THE VOLCANOES OF JAVA Stay in a secret spot 6,000ft above sea level in Bromo Tengger National Park, waking up at dawn to watch the
sun peak over the horizon at Mount Bromo’s summit. Then take the scenic train journey to Bangyuwangi to marvel at the steaming volcanic vents and turquoise crater lake of the Ijen crater before decamping to the coast of Bali Barat National Park.
3
SLOW DOWN IN LOMBOK Channel your inner beach bum on the talc-fine white beaches of Lombok,
Bali’s sleepy, laid-back neighbour. Spend days snorkelling over pristine reefs, exploring the island’s jungle-clad interiors and day tripping - picnic in tow - to explore the so-called Secret Gili islands.
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INDONESIA | FEATURE
4
ADVENTURE IN UBUD Bali’s cultural, spiritual and culinary capital, Ubud is also one big adventure playground. Enjoy cycling past emerald
rice paddies; rafting down the Ayung River’s rapids; hiking up the majestic Mount Batur for sunrise; embracing spirituality in the region’s temples or learning the art behind Indonesia’s culinary creations with a local cooking class.
5
THE SUMBA SURF SCENE Located to the east of Bali, the lost-world island of Sumba hosts one of Indonesia’s best surf breaks. Stay at Nihi Sumba,
one of our all-time favourite lodges, and learn to surf with world class instructors on the smaller waves of Coconut Cove or tackle the bigger barrels of Occy’s Left, a private break which is limited to only ten people per day, so you can surf the swells in salty solitude.
6
OFF-THE-BEATEN-TRACK IN SULAWESI When not diving some of the world’s best muck diving sites in Northern
Sulawesi’s Lembeh Strait, explore the Minahasa Highlands; cycle around the scenic Tondano Lake; soothe aches in bubbling hot springs and hike its craggy volcanic peaks for sweeping vistas of the towering Gunung Lukon volcano.
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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...
... FOR LIVEABOARDS
OMAN
AUSTRALIA
Located off the south eastern coast of Oman, the
The three swirling atolls that make up Rowley Shoals
Hallaniyat Islands are a relatively new destination
are the remnants of a trio of extinct volcanoes,
for liveaboard divers, wherein lies the charm. Board
featuring everything from dramatic canyons and
the Oman Aggressor to cruise the archipelago,
lagoons to thrilling drifts and plunging walls
diving in a fish soup of reef species alongside
populated by healthy corals and abundant marine
honeycomb moray eels, dragon morays, giant
life (over 688 species, to be precise). The Rowley
groupers, sea turtles and - if you visit between
Shoals are located 180 miles west of Broome, so
January and March - humpback whales, all without
set sail aboard True North and explore sites guided
another soul in sight.
by a marine biologist and a posse of underwater naturalists, naturally.
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INDONESIA | FEATURE
Whether you’re a snorkeller or advanced diver; want to up the dive count or combine diving with land-based escapades, we know the very best liveaboards plying the world’s oceans.
MALDIVES
MICRONESIA
Rather than pick one idyllic island paradise, cruise
Located in the Pacific, this remote archipelago is
around several aboard some of the world’s finest
home to Chuuk Lagoon, the site of a ferocious
luxury liveaboards. Each day dip into a different
airstrike carried out by the United States on the
turquoise atoll to explore some of the archipelago’s
Japanese in WWII known as ‘Operation Hailstone’.
more remote dive sites, ranging from crystal clear
Best accessed by liveaboard, divers can explore an
lagoons to thrilling channel dives. Along the way,
underwater museum of over 50 wartime wrecks
dive with manta rays, sharks, dolphins, groupers
draped in corals, spotting all manner of cargo
and more, spending surface intervals exploring
including bullets, gas masks and even bones. For
local islands and picnicking on deserted sandbanks.
the best of both worlds, hop west to Yap to dive with mantas in the Mi’l channel.
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FEATURE | INDONESIA
AHOY THERE! A far cry from the days of scallywags and scurvy, leave landlubbers behind and discover some of the most luxurious, adventurous liveaboards we offer.
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INDONESIA | FEATURE
Top to bottom,
⚫ The Alexa, Indonesia
⚫ Nautlius Belle Amie, Socorro
left to right:
⚫ Galapagos Sky, Darwin’s Arch
⚫ Scubaspa, Maldives
in the Galapagos ⚫ Si Datu Bua, Indonesia
⚫ The Undersea Hunter’s DeepSea Submersible, Cocos Island, Costa Rica
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FEATURE | PHILLIPINES
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PHILLIPINES | FEATURE
SMALL IS THE NEW BIG What if we told you that you don’t need to board a spaceship to see alien life forms? That below the surface of some of the world’s most remote and exotic seas, tiny, weird and wonderful aliens of all shapes and colours thrive and flourish in underwater landscapes just as varied? Welcome to the wonderful world of macro diving.
Peacock mantis shrimp
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FEATURE | PHILLIPINES
This: Pygmy seahorse Below: Blue-ringed octopus Opposite top: ‘Shaun the Sheep’ nudibranch Opposite bottom: Whip coral shrimp
SPACE ODDITIES Divers are really astronauts; gliding
The seabed here is home to a mix
weightless through the ocean we
of coral and muck sites (so-called
explore strange new worlds, some
because of the nutrient-rich volcanic
carpeted in colourful coral gardens
sand – or ‘mucky’ – seabed), and divers
and others covered by desolate
are treated to the whole spectrum
volcanic sands. Look a little closer
of critters, from the expertly
and a world of minute macro marvels
camouflaged – like the pygmy
is unveiled.
seahorse that winds itself round the
The name ‘macro diving’ derives
tendrils of a gorgonian sea fan, or the
from the large lens needed to capture
tiny coconut octopus that shelters in
the ocean’s smallest critters. The sheer
shells – to the bold and brilliant. From
quantity of macro life is too long to list
technicolour sea slugs (nudibranchs)
(with new species being discovered
to the rainbow coloured peacock
almost daily), and while they can be
mantis shrimp, spindly ghost pipefish
found across the world many of the
and bizarre hairy frogfish, these are
best sites can be found in the Bohol
some of the most fascinating
Sea off Dauin in the Philippines.
creatures in the ocean.
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PHILLIPINES | FEATURE
KEEP YOUR CRITTERS CLOSE
It might sound obvious but one of the best tips for capturing the perfect shot is to get closer. While this might be easy with stationary subjects, with timid fish remember to take your time, watch your surroundings and never poke, prod or harass your subject to get them closer to your lens. We are guests in their world and there should be no shortage of subjects on the reef.
INSIDER KNOWLEDGE:
MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY Professional underwater photographer Saeed Rashid shares his top tricks for getting the perfect shot…
BEHAVIOUR AL INSTINCTS
Talk to most dive guides and they will tell you that they rarely look for the subjects themselves but the habitat in which they live. Some critters, like the ‘Shaun the Sheep’ nudibranch or a whip coral shrimp, can be so small they appear as a tiny dot but if you know the type of places to look you can find these amazing critters. Grab yourself a magnifying glass and keep it in your BCD pocket as it will significantly aid your search for some of the smaller subjects in the sea. Caption goes here
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FEATURE | PHILLIPINES
A LIGHTBULB MOMENT
Artificial lighting – the use of strobes (flashes) and occasionally continuous lights (torches) – is important for photographing the smaller fish and critters on the reef. Spend time practicing in a swimming pool before you get out on the reef and when you do take a photo check it out on the camera screen, zooming into the corners just to make sure you have them positioned correctly. Remember, with lights you can get a big difference with only a small change so adjust settings a little at a time.
Clockwise from above: Harlequin ghost pipefish Orbicular damselfish Feather star shrimp Anemonefish
THINK COMPOSITION
Try and make something in your photograph the focal point. This could be a fan coral on a wall, the eye of a fish or even your buddy – this will add interest and really help your image ‘pop’. See if you can add depth to your composition by shooting along a reef or blurring the background. Many people will tell you to fill the frame with the subject but a clever use of so-called negative space can be just as powerful.
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PHILLIPINES | FEATURE
A BEAUTIFUL BACKDROP
Even when you are photographing the most colourful and exciting subjects a messy background can ruin your photograph. Experienced photographers often look for background first then search for a foreground subject to add interest.I will often follow a fish in my viewfinder and only press the shutter when it ventures to a more photogenic location.
NEVER SHOOT DOWN, EXCEPT…
When I teach new underwater photographers, I often talk about getting ‘clean water’ behind your subject. The best way to do this is to get down below or at least eye level with your subject. For me, the only time you break this rule is when you’re photographing something that has an attractive back such as a turtle, shark or ray.
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FEATURE | PHILLIPINES
While you’re here, WHY NOT… The 7,107 islands of the Philippines are surrounded by more than 10,000 square miles of coral reefs, home to over 1,200 macro and pelagic species and WWII wrecks galore.
1
THRESHING AROUND Monad Shoal, a large seamount off Malapascua Island in northern Cebu, is the only place in the world where
sightings of the elusive thresher shark are almost guaranteed. Descend to 25 metres at dawn to see these long-tailed predators rid themselves of parasites at the reef’s cleaning stations.
2
A BAIT BALL FESTIVAL Just off the shores of Panagsama beach in Moalboal lives a shoal of millions of sardines in a bait ball so
thick it blots out the sun. Enter the cloud and watch them dance and shimmer across the reef until you reach a sudden 40 metre drop off out to the blue.
3
BARRACUDA LAKE Located in a volcanic crater in Coron, Barracuda Lake offers the unique experience of diving in a mix of fresh
and salt water, separated by a foggy, bath temperature (no need for a wetsuit here) thermocline at around 14 metres depth. Continue descending down against a dramatic jagged limestone wall backdrop until you reach the silty floor, which feels like landing on Mars.
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PHILLIPINES | FEATURE
4
WRECK YOURSELF Located on the northern tip of Palawan, Coron Bay is home to an underwater museum of a dozen Japanese WWII
ships, sunk in 1944. Conveniently close together, explore wartime vessels (some over 550ft long) encrusted in corals and decked out with amazing artefacts (think: anti-aircraft guns).
5
EL NIDO’S BIG AND SMALL LAGOON If you can drag yourself away from the marvellous underwater world, El Nido has
some of the most beautiful topside scenery in the world. Avoid the crowds by kayaking around the magnificent Big and Small Lagoons in the late afternoon, drifting past dramatic limestone karst cliffs to hidden sparkling white sand beaches.
6
CAPTIVATING CORAL For those who like to drift gently past ornate, rainbow-coloured walls bursting with life, head to Anda, a quieter corner
of Bohol, and you’ll be greeted with sites brimming with stunning hard and soft corals and equally exotic inhabitants from sea snakes and turtles to pygmy seahorses, candy crabs, and, if you’re lucky, whale sharks.
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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...
...FOR MACRO DIVING As your ground control, we’ve compiled some of our favourite macro diving destinations, guaranteed to leave you starry-eyed…
NORTHERN SULAWESI, INDONESIA
MAFIA ISLAND, TANZANIA
MILNE BAY, PAPUA NEW GUINEA
Often hailed as a ‘muck diving mecca’,
When sites are called Nudi City and
The original muck diving spot,
the Lembeh Strait in Northern Sulawesi
Frogfish Town, you know the muck
Milne Bay in Papua New Guinea
is without a doubt one of the most
diving’s going to be good. Located
is a celebration of all things small.
extraordinary and interesting marine
off the shores of Chole Bay in Mafia
From pygmy seahorses, octopus
environments to dive. Spot some of the
Island Marine Park, both sites are a
and scorpionfish to mandarin fish,
world’s rarest, most unusual critters
haven for a plethora of small critters
crabs, shrimps and all manner of
lurking in the debris of black and grey
hiding across the reef, from over 80
eels, Milne Bay will most likely have
volcanic sand slopes, including no less
different species of nudibranch and
it. Aside from its marvellous muck
than eight species of frogfish, plus
frogfish to ghost pipefish, cuttlefish,
sites, Milne Bay is a jack of all
mimic octopuses, flamboyant cuttlefish,
seahorses, harlequin shrimps and little
trades, boasting colourful coral
pygmy seahorses, blue ringed
dragonfish – and with both sites at just
gardens, busy drop-offs, towering
octopuses and even the bobbit worm
ten metres depth you can seek out
pinnacles and sunken WWII wrecks,
(which you might remember engulfing
these camouflaged critters for longer.
all pulsating with tropical fish and
an entire lion fish in Blue Planet II).
passing pelagics.
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JUST ONE OF OUR MANY ADDITIONAL SERVICES...
PRE‑BOOKED SEATS Avoid airlines’ random seat allocation
To find out more about The Detail and relevant Terms and Conditions, see page six or visit www.originaldiving.com/why-choose-us
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FEATURE | MALDIVES
– The –
CONSERVATION CONVERSATION Our adventures both above and below the water have given us fi rst-hand experience of the fragility of the oceans and their remarkable inhabitants. As environmental conservation increasingly takes centre stage on the global platform, a breed of admirable eco-retreats are pioneering changes to save our blue planet.
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MALDIVES | FEATURE
A coral grouper
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FEATURE | MALDIVES
PROTECT WHAT YOU LOVE A glistening archipelago of pearl
With three resident NGO’s – the
drop islands, turquoise lagoons and
Manta Trust, Blue Marine Foundation
(understatement alert) incredible
and Olive Ridley Project – on board,
diving, the Maldives is one of the most
the resort is also championing ocean
coveted havens on earth, yet also
conservation through research,
one of the most fragile. However,
education and local community work.
where unregulated fishing practices,
They take students - many of whom
plastic-pollution and climate change
have never properly explored their
are real threats, Six Senses Laamu
watery world - snorkelling on local
resort is providing the answer.
reefs, and launched the annual
Located in the southern Laamu atoll,
Save the Sea Turtles festival to raise
Six Senses Laamu’s eco-credentials
awareness of their plight. Through
are impeccable. They have pledged
these admirable actions, Six Senses
to become plastic-free by 2022,
is planting the seed for long-term
encourage guests to don their
change by igniting blue minds across
sustainability-sunhats, and bring a
the atoll (and beyond) to act together
wealth of eco-experience to bear when
to protect what they love. After all,
lobbying hard for new regulations
we are all stewards of the natural
for marine reserves. Quite simply,
environment.
sustainability is in the Six Senses’ DNA.
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MALDIVES | FEATURE
• CONSERVATION BREEDS BIODIVERSITY •
A mammoth amount of megafauna continues to thrive and flourish in the Laamu atoll, so much so, that if Original Diving guests of Six Senses Laamu do not see a shark, dolphin, turtle, napoleon wrasse, eagle ray, sting ray or manta ray during their trip, they’ll let guests stay for free. (See website for T&Cs.)
Images clockwise from top left: A local education field trip Laamu’s thriving reefs A local school student snorkelling A giant frogfish captured on the house reef The annual ‘Turtles in Laamu - Safe and Protected’ festival
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FEATURE | MALDIVES
OCEAN THREATS
As the fragility of these blue worlds becomes increasingly apparent, these human activities are affecting the health of the ocean.
OVER-FISHING
38.5M tonnes of by-catch caught per year
90% of wild fish stocks are fully or over-exploited
700,000 tonnes of fishing gear enters the sea per year
39% decline recorded in marine species in 40 years
PLASTICS
40% of plastic produced is single-use packaging
8M
91% of plastic waste is not recycled
metric tonnes of plastic waste enters the ocean every year
1950
1.5M 2002
200M 2017
348M
Volume of plastics produced in metric tonnes
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MALDIVES | FEATURE
48%
30%
increase in ocean acidity since the industrial revolution
of all CO2 produced by human production has been absorbed by the ocean
CLIMATE CHANGE
SEA TEMPERATURE Increasing thermal stress causes coral bleaching and the spread of infectious diseases
SEA LEVELS Habitat loss, increasing soil salinity and coastal erosion are just a few effects
STORM PATTERNS Stronger, more frequent storms have caused the disruption of reef structures
PRECIPITATION Increased runoff of land-based pollutants are causing harmful algae blooms
OCEAN CURRENTS Changing connectivity and temperature regimes means fewer nutrients are being transported to sustain ocean life
ACIDIFICATION A reduction in pH levels decreases coral growth rates and structural integrity
SIX SENSES SUSTAINABILITY SCRIPTURE FOR TRAVELLING
REFUSE SINGLEUSE PLASTIC Be prepared. Carry a reusable water bottle, coffee cup, shopping bag and metal straw
GIVE BACK Donate to the local community or volunteer during your trip
BUY LOCAL Support local artisans by purchasing handmade, local items
SUPPORT WILD EXPERIENCES Support a natural wildlife experience, not a show put on just for tourists
SHARING IS CARING Share your stories and inspire others to travel responsibly
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FEATURE | MALDIVES
While you’re here, WHY NOT… Teamwork makes the dream work, so get stuck in with these eco-adventures at Six Senses Laamu...
1
RESTORE THE REEF Guided by an expert coral biologist, harvest coral fragments from donor colonies, attach them to the nursery’s
ropes, scrub off any unwanted algae, measure the increased growth rate and transplant corals back on to the house reef to thrive and flourish. Et voila, a reef is born.
2
TURTLE NEST HATCHING
Visit during turtle hatching season (May to September) and witness hundreds of baby green turtles emerging from their
nests, padding down the beach before disappearing into the foamy waves. If they hatch at night, the resort will wake you up to see this heart-warming spectacle under a blanket of stars.
3
BEACHCOMBING FOR CHANGE Sorry to be the bearers of bad news, but without action there could be more plastic
than fish in the sea by 2050. Join the war against plastic pollution by joining a beach or reef clean, because each and every piece of litter removed from the beach is a piece that will no longer threaten to harm the local marine life.
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MALDIVES | FEATURE
4
A TURTLE-Y AWESOME FESTIVAL Attend the island’s annual Save the Sea Turtles festival – an atoll-wide
event that brings together 13 schools, NGOs and local councils across all 11 islands in Laamu to raise awareness of the importance of turtles, their habitats and the overall health of the marine environment.
5
BECOME A MARINE BIOLOGIST Don your snorkel gear and take a field trip with one of the ten resident marine
biologists to learn about the marvellous local marine life – whether exploring the house reef, sea grass meadows or heading out further afield, search for sharks, rays, turtles and fish galore.
6
JUNIOR MARINE BIOLOGIST Have a budding Jacques Cousteau in your brood? Little VIPs between six
and 16 can dive into the deep end with seven modules covering all things marine conservation – including a personalised project paired with a marine biologist.
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FEATURE | MALDIVES
WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...
...FOR ECO-ADVENTURES
NUARRO LUXURY ECO LODGE, MOZAMBIQUE
MISOOL ECO RESORT, RAJA AMPAT
Located in Northern Mozambique, Nuarro is an
With no light pollution, no noise pollution and no
adventure just to reach, but on arrival, guests will
phone signal, there is very little to distract you
have the sugar-white shores of Nanatha Half Moon
from the surrounding natural beauty at Misool
Bay all to themselves. The lodge ticks all the right
Eco Resort. The resort’s Misool Foundation is
boxes with electricity and clean water produced using
dedicated to safeguarding 300,000 acres of the
renewable energy while guests can also give back
world’s most biodiverse reef, which is now one
to the local community by volunteering during their
of the few places on Earth where biodiversity is
stay. Divers can explore straight from the shores
improving rather than declining – with biomass
and with seagrass, coral reefs and drop-offs, there
increasing as much as 600% in six years.
is plenty to keep guests underwater the entire trip.
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MALDIVES | FEATURE
Paving the way for ocean conservation across their respective seas, these eco-retreats are the standard-bearers for sustainable tourism.
JEAN-MICHEL COUSTEAU RESORT, FIJI
PALAU
Located on the doorstep of the Namena Marine
sanctuary and ban bottom trawling, while its
Reserve (often hailed as one of the world’s best
most recent eco-initiative, the Palau Pledge, is a
diving spots) in Savusavu Bay, the Jean-Michel
declaration signed with a stamp in visitors’ passports
Cousteau Resort makes a genuine effort at
to ensure responsible, sustainable tourism. The
sustainable tourism, from a giant clam project
result? A pristine divers paradise of sheer drop-offs,
to its water filtration programme. For those looking
coral-encrusted sea walls, caves, wrecks and
to go full eco-warrior, guests can do reef walks with
mind-boggling marine biodiversity. If you are
the resident marine biologist, conduct a reef audit
travelling around the new or full moon, it’s also
or plant coral at the reef farm.
possible to witness the rare incredible spectacle of a
Palau was the first country to create a shark
bumphead parrotfish or red snapper mass spawning.
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FEATURE | GOZO
The P13 wreck
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GOZO | FEATURE
A FAMILY ADVENTURE IN
GOZO According to legend, Odysseus fell under the sevenyear spell of the sea-nymph Calypso on the rural island of Gozo. These days, families continue to be seduced by its sunny climes, beautiful coastline and endless adventures both above and below the water.
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FEATURE | GOZO
A SHOAL LOT OF FUN For short-haul family fun in fins, make sure you go to Gozo.
What lies shaking on the bottom of the ocean?
Just a hop, skip and a jump from the UK (or, more
…a nervous wreck. Fortunately you can’t hear
precisely, a three-hour flight), Gozo has something
embarrassing dad jokes (or stroppy back chat)
suited to everyone. Malta’s little sister, this tiny
underwater, so there’s no better way to bond
island boasts the best diving in the Mediterranean,
with the family than on a diving holiday. Whether
with calm, turquoise waters more reminiscent of
introducing the sprogs to the wondrous watery
the tropics than Europe. Most of the dive sites are
world (which they can enjoy from as young as eight
accessible from the shore and with sheltered bays
with the PADI Bubblemaker course) or ticking off
aplenty this is the perfect place to learn, while for
all manner of marine critters together, we can put
more experienced divers wartime wrecks, caves,
together a tailor-made and family-friendly dive trip.
caverns and even the mysterious Blue Hole await.
Mastering basic scuba techniques
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GOZO | FEATURE
Clockwise from top left: Mgarr Ix Xini dive site A cuttlefish Between Inland Sea and Blue Hole dive sites
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FEATURE | GOZO
While you’re here, WHY NOT… For a tiny island, Gozo sure packs in a lot of family-friendly action.
1
HIT THE ROAD The best way to explore the island is on four wheels and, at just eight miles long and four miles wide, Gozo is easy
to navigate. There’s no shortage of attractions – from the rock-cut saltpans in Qbajjar Bay to stumbling across secluded coves (insider tip: don’t forget your mask and snorkel – you never know what you will come across).
2
VISIT VALLETTA
A short 30-minute ferry ride from Gozo, spend the day wandering around the butterscotch hued streets
of Malta’s capital, Valletta. Not to be outdone by Gozo, this UNESCO World Heritage city’s previous occupants include the Phoenicians and the Romans. If you’re history-ed out, enjoy a delicious lunch overlooking the Grand Harbour.
3
SEA KAYAKING ADVENTURE Explore the island from a different angle on a family kayak trip. Led by
an expert guide, uncover the island’s hidden rocky bays and cays while learning about its swashbuckling, piratical past. Stop for a delicious picnic at a deserted beach of your choice before heading back to your familyfriendly hotel or villa at sunset.
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GOZO | FEATURE
4
PUMP UP THE ADRENALINE Gozo feels perfectly designed for outdoor adventures, and families can
up the adrenaline ante by rock climbing, abseiling, zip-lining, hiking and biking around the island. Or, leave the children in capable hands while you sample Gozo’s finest wines on a vineyard tour.
5
CULTURE VULTURES Gozo has a fully Game of Thrones-style gory history, complete with invaders and pirates, and the island even played a cameo
role in the first series. Embrace your inner historians while uncovering a wealth of fascinating historical sites across the island, including the towering Citadel and the 5,600-year-old Ggantija Temple, built 500 years before Stonehenge.
6
SET SAIL Spend the day sailing around the Mediterranean aboard a luxurious private boat, stopping off for a swim
and a snorkel in the aptly named Blue Lagoon (off the neighbouring island of Comino) before sailing wherever catches your eye. On the subject, make sure to keep your eyes peeled for dolphins.
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WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD...
...FOR FAMILY DIVING
GRENADA
MALDIVES
Sitting pretty on the serene south-west coast of
They say you never forget your first dive, and that
Grenada, Mount Cinnamon is a haven for families,
will certainly be true in the Maldives. The lagoons
boasting spacious family friendly villas, a superb
and atolls here offer the perfect conditions for
Montessori Kids Club and it’s very own five-star
beginners, with clear, calm waters and colourful
PADI dive centre. Introduce the whole family to
reef fish aplenty, while the deeper channels between
the world of diving straight from the resort’s shores
the islands (for more advanced divers) are a magnet
in warm, calm waters above colourful reefs that
for pelagics (think: hundreds of manta rays, whale
are a pleasure to dive. Just 25 minutes south of
sharks and more). The cherries on the top are some
the resort, in Molinere Bay, is the world’s first
of the most luxurious, and family friendly, resorts
underwater sculpture park, which is shallow
on the planet.
enough to appreciate while snorkelling.
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GOZO | FEATURE
Whether introducing children to diving or deepening your bond over bubbles, these destinations will have the whole family hooked for life…
OMAN
BELIZE
Whether learning to dive off Oman’s glorious
Boasting no less than seven UNESCO World Heritage
coastline; snorkelling over the fish-filled reefs of
sites, dozens of Mayan ruins, thick tropical jungles
the Daymaniyat Islands; dune bashing in the Wahiba
home to a large population of jaguars and 250 miles
Sands; haggling for Arabian treasures in Muscat’s
of glistening Caribbean coastline, Belize is a
souqs; climbing the towering Hajar Mountains or
smorgasbord of adventure. Out to sea, Belize adds to
canyoning down spectacular wadis (mostly dry
its accolades with the longest stretch of coral in the
river valleys), Oman will ignite the whole family’s
western hemisphere. Whether diving or snorkelling,
adventurous spirit. Add in shortish haul flights, a
explore the Turneffe Atoll’s most remote sites, including
handful of marvellous family friendly hotels and a
Elbow Reef, and Lighthouse Reef, spotting clouds of
warm winter climate and you’re talking the holy
fish dancing over pristine coral reefs. If you’re a bunch
grail of family escapes.
of advanced aquatics, the mysterious Blue Hole awaits.
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FEATURE | GOZO
LEARNING TO DIVE… IT COULDN’T BE EASIER Gone are the days of having to spend weeks doing theory and pool sessions before jumping in a flooded quarry to finish your training. Today, learning to dive couldn’t be easier and you can go from never having dived to being a fully qualified diver in as little as four days. It’s easy and, what’s more, it’s safe. There are a number of options available to suit all ages and abilities from eight to 88 years old. THE TECHNICAL BIT
THREE WAYS TO LEARN LEARN TO DIVE BEFORE YOU GO
If you don’t want to spend your holiday learning to dive you can get fully qualified at a local dive centre (we can help you find one). This means more time to dive while away but it does mean (if you live in the UK) that you’re going to be spending time in a pool. HALF AND HALF
A popular option is to do the theory and pool work at home before completing the dives on holiday.
The first certification you need is the Open Water
This Open Water Referral means zero time spent
Diver, which allows you to dive with a buddy to a
in a classroom or pool on holiday so you can dive
depth of 18 metres (children between 10 and 11 can
straight in to the magical underwater world.
complete the PADI Junior Open Water Diver, which will take them to a maximum depth of 12 metres).
LEARN TO DIVE ON HOLIDAY
There are a number of certification bodies out there
This is a fun way to learn as you’ll likely be part of
but by far the most popular is PADI (the Professional
a small group with the same instructor throughout
Association of Dive Instructors), with SSI (Scuba
your training, but it takes up to four days and means
Schools International) and BSAC (British Sub Aqua
spending some of your holiday reading textbooks
Club) also well-known organisations. The Open
and sitting at the bottom of a pool. Or, if you’d rather
Water certification has three main components:
limit your classroom time while you’re away you can complete the e-learning at home and just do the
THEORY
practical parts on holiday. Win, win.
You need to complete theory training modules to understand the fundamentals of diving.
CLIMB THE LADDER
Don’t worry, this is extremely straightforward.
Why stop at Open Water? There are a number of courses available on our holidays that can take you
CONFINED WATER TR AINING
all the way to instructor, should you decide that a
Before getting into the ocean, you need sessions
career change is in order. We would recommend that
in a pool or similarly calm, shallow water to get
you at least get your Advanced certificate as this will
used to basic diving techniques.
allow you to dive to 30 metres and many of the best dives on our trips require this level of certification.
OPEN WATER TR AINING
To complete the certification, you need to do
www.originaldiving.com/learn-to-dive
four dives in open water to put what you have learned into practice.
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FEATURE | GOZO
INSIDER KNOWLEDGE:
LEARNING TO DIVE
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GOZO | FEATURE
We caught up with Original Travel Founder Tom Barber and his twins India and Siena on their experience of learning to dive…
TOM BARBER, DAD (A BIT OLDER THAN 10) WHAT MADE YOU WANT TO DO A FAMILY DIVING HOLIDAY?
Because - as a parent - if you love doing something you want to get your children involved as early as possible. OK, maybe not if your thing is blindfolded chainsaw juggling, but if it’s diving then very much so. One of the great bonding experiences is being back on the boat talking to the children about what you’ve all
INDIA & SIENA BARBER TWINS, (AGE: 10)
just seen on a dive, and with PADI’s brilliant Bubblemaker course they can start learning from as young as eight.
WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE PART OF LEARNING TO DIVE?
HOW WAS YOUR EXPERIENCE
INDIA: My favourite part was that
LEARNING TO DIVE WITH YOUR
the learning time before we went
CHILDREN?
underwater wasn’t too long and boring!
Amazing, and – cheesy as it sounds
SIENA: Mine was learning the hand
– very emotional. I was actually
signals, and what means what.
snorkelling while they were doing
We were then practicing them all
their Bubblemaker dives, but they only
the time, when we went snorkelling,
go three metres down so I was diving
even in the bath!
down and filming the whole thing with my GoPro. I was very proud of
WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE
them – they took to it like ducks to,
MOMENT UNDERWATER?
well, water. Once they’ve got the bug
INDIA: Seeing all the amazing tropical
– which they almost certainly will - at
fish and coral. There’s so much going
the age of ten children can do the PADI
on – it’s very beautiful.
Open Water course, but I know clients
SIENA: Swimming over the reef itself.
of ours who go diving with their children
It’s like un underwater city with fish
aged between eight and ten and who
everywhere. We also saw a moray eel
do one Bubblemaker dive a day so they
and a lobster.
are essentially on a diving holiday!
WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT DIVING?
WILL YOU CONTINUE TO DO
INDIA: It feels like flying! I was nervous
FAMILY DIVING HOLIDAYS?
when we did our Bubblemaker dive
Absolutely, and one of the pleasures
so I was happy to be held by the
will be seeing them ‘come up through
instructor, but I can’t wait to dive
the ranks’ doing their PADI Open
on my own and do somersaults!
Water, then Advanced and so on. The
SIENA: That there’s a whole world
thought of doing more technical dives
underwater that you don’t realise
with them, and dives when they’re
about when you’re on the shore, or
more likely to see the truly amazing
in a boat. When you are down there
stuff, is incredibly exciting. I just hope
it feels like you are an explorer.
that as I grow older I’ll still have the puff to stay down as long as them!
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WE HOPE THIS BROCHURE HAS INSPIRED YOU. If so, please contact us as follows... PHONE +44 (0) 20 3911 0430
ONLINE originaldiving.com originaltravel.co.uk
EMAIL ask@originaldiving.com
All the flights and flight-inclusive holidays in this brochure are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certificate. If you buy a holiday that does not include a flight, as a condition of our membership of ABTA, protection is also provided. Details of this protection is set out in our booking conditions viewable at originaldiving.com
All prices are from prices for a trip including flights from the UK in economy class, car hire, accommodation and, if specified, organised experiences.
PHOTO CREDITS Alphonse (p.2, p.34, p.35, p.39), Horacio Martinez (p.36, p.37), Blue Safari (p.37, p.38, p.39), Poelzer Wolfgang (p.40), Jorge Hauser (p.3, p.42, p.43, p.49), Rodrigo Friscione (p.44, p.45), Gary Bell (p.54), David Doubilet (p.55), Nigel Wade (p.1, p.18, p.55, p.56, p.57), Walindi Plantation Resort (p.54, p.55), Tufi Dive Resort (p.39), Karawari Lodge (p.38), Rondon Ridge (p.39) Trans Niugini Tours (p.38, p.39), Tim Simond (p.2, p.62, p.63), Tiger Blue (p.62), the Arenui (p.63, p.66, p.67), Scott Johnson (p.70), The Alexa (p.72), Galapagos Sky (p.72), Si Datu Bau (p.72), Nautilus Belle Amie (p.73), Scubaspa (p.73), The Undersea Hunter (p.73), Daniel Gray (p.76), Saeed Rashid (p.76, p.77, p.78, p.79), India Tyndall (p.81), Marteyne van Well (p.3, p.84, p.85, p.87, p.90, p.91), Six Senses Laamu (p.86, p.87, p.90, p.91), Xlendi Tours (p.3, p.94, p.98, p.99), Pete Bullen (p.97), Dive Grenada (p.100), Tom Barber (p.100, p.101, p.102, p.103).
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To order one of our brochures call: +44 (0) 20 3911 0430 or visit: originaltravel.co.uk/brochure
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Front cover image: Bobtail squid captured by the late Nigel Wade in Papua New Guinea
LIFE IS IN THE DETAIL
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ORIGINAL DIVING
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DIVE IN
05/04/2019 10:02
