Families

WE ARE FAMILY

The finest family holidays, tailored to your tribe

by

OUR GUIDE TO FAMILY TRAVEL

OMAN - BOTSWANA

SPAIN - ITALY - THAILAND

Cover shot by Claire Guarry.

Art Director: Faustine Poidevin-Gros

Editor: Tom Barber

Deputy Editor: Naomi Pike

Picture Editors: Marie Champenois, Daria Nikitina

Contributors: Jane Knight, Stephanie Drax, Richard Mellor, Andrane de Barry

EDITOR'S LETTER

A thought for all you families out there. As an educated guesstimate, parents will probably only arrange 30 to 40 foreign family holidays before their children fly the nest. That’s not a huge number, so you need those precious trips and that precious time to be absolutely perfect. Fortunately, you’ve come to the right place because Original Travel can help you pass those tricky family holiday tests with straight As. We’re also experts in tailor-making the many trending variations on the family travel theme, from 3G (Three Generational) trips to bonding holidays involving just two family members; they could be a grandparent and grandchild or even a grown-up child and an ageing parent making up for lost time. After all, there are as many different family dynamics as species of butterfly found in Costa Rica, that family classic destination. And finally, as Sister Sledge and the title of this magazine attest, we are family travel experts and family ourselves. From parental experience, we know, for example, that children of different ages require radically different holidays; that the journey really is every bit as important as the destination, and that some so-called family destinations and experiences are the equivalent of fidget spinners (i.e. a mere craze) while others are the real deal.

TOM BARBER, Co-Founder of Original Travel

OUR SERVICES

Original Travel

LOCAL HEROES

From the simplest to the strangest, the Concierge in your destination can fulfil any request, be that booking a last-minute babysitter or sourcing a dinosaur-shaped birthday cake. These local heroes are just a text or call away.

LEAVE WITH EASE

We’ll always pre-book your airline seats, check you in and process your boarding passes, and can even arrange an airport transfer. Anything and everything to make flying with your family a breeze.

ZERO CARBON

We absorb 100% of the carbon footprint generated by our clients' flights (and ground transportation) through our financing of large reforestation projects around the world. Our new carbon calculator also allows us to recommend the flights with the lowest possible carbon footprint.

DIVE IN!

We think diving is one of the great family bonding experiences and Original Diving, our dedicated dive division, can tailor-make snorkelling and diving holidays around the world, including courses for children to learn to dive.

LIKE A LOCAL

Take an informal stroll (tailored to your personal interests) with a local resident who’ll share insights into the destination’s culture and society, giving you and your children a genuine understanding of local life. It’s an enriching and original experience.

AIRPORT FAST-TRACK

Our UK airport departure Meet and Greet service is included as standard with every booking. You will be met in the departures hall by a member of our team who will then help fast-track you through check-in and whisk you through security. We also offer this service on your return, on request.

WELCOME

Whether it’s an early morning arrival or a late departure, we can arrange for you to check-in/out of your accommodation at a time that’s convenient to you. We can also arrange a room for the day on certain stopovers.

APPY DAYS

Our handy app gives you access to your day-by-day itinerary and documents; important contact information (including our local Concierge) and a dossier (see below) of destination intel, visible on a GPS map within the app and all accessible offline.

WI-FI WHEREVER

Always stay connected, even in far-flung locations – the children will thank you for it. For certain destinations, a mini Wi-Fi router or an eSIM is provided, which you can then connect to with up to five devices (1 GB/day included).

COVERED

Travel insurance is imperative. Unfortunately, not all travel insurance policies are created equal so our insurance partners can provide a number of different family travel policies including single and multi-trip travel insurance.

DETAILED DOSSIERS

Available on the Original Travel app and in your documents, our detailed dossier of recommended restaurants, shops, museums and more – including those that are particularly family-friendly – will be your trusted travel companion.

24/7 ASSISTANCE

Our consultants and Concierges are on call 24/7, no matter the time zone, to assist you in finding a solution to any logistical, administrative, medical or mechanical snags that may arise.

RESERVED

Like the pizzeria in Mexico where the waiters play keepy-uppy with the children while they wait, some restaurants really understand families. We’ll always recommend them and make sure they are pre-reserved long before you even travel.

LOUNGE ACCESS

Where available, lounge access for all the family is provided for flights departing from UK airports, even if you’re flying in economy class. Enjoy complimentary drinks and snacks in the comfort of the lounge before your flight.

These are just some of our exclusive Original Services, all of which help us stand out from the crowd. To learn more, speak to one of our expert consultants.

+44 (0) 20 3911 0444 originaltravel.co.uk

WHERE TO GO WHEN

The ideal family destinations for every half term and holiday

FEB 1/2 TERM

SMALLS: THE CARIBBEAN FOR SUN, SEA AND SAND PAR EXCELLENCE

TWEENS: SWEDISH LAPLAND TO MUSH HUSKIES AND S EE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS

TEENS: MEXICO FOR MYSTERIOUS MAYAN RUINS AND S WIMMING IN CENOTE SINKHOLES

SUMMER HOLS

SMALLS: GREECE THE WHEELS OF YOUR YOUNGSTERS’ LIFE-LONG LOVE AFFAIR

TWEENS: BORNEO FOR BEACHES, BOAT TRIPS AND ORANGUTAN SIGHTINGS

TEENS: TANZANIA FOR SERIOUS SAFARI

EASTER HOLS

SMALLS: CORAL REEF SNORKELLING AND DREAMY KIDS' CLUBS IN THE MALDIVES

TWEENS: JAPAN FOR NINJA TRAINING, ORIGAMI, MANGA AND MORE

TEENS: SOUTH AFRICA FOR CAPE CRUS ADING AND S AFARI

MAY 1/2 TERM

SMALLS: CYPRUS FOR KID-FRIENDLY HOTELS AND EARLY SUMMER S UN

TWEENS: PORTUGAL FOR SUPERB SURFING AND LOVELY LIS BON

TEENS: CALIFORNIA DREAMING, DIGGING THE DEEP SOUTH OR BITING INTO THE BIG APPLE

OCT 1/2 TERM XMAS HOLS

SMALLS: LIFE’S A BEACH IN MAURITIUS

TWEENS: MOROCCO FOR MARRAKECH’S MARVELLOUS MEDINA AND (ATLAS) MOUNTAIN HIGHS

TEENS: ISTANBUL MAKES THE IDEAL CULTURAL CITY BREAK

SMALLS: ARCTIC FUN AND FATHER CHRISTMAS IN FINLAND

TWEENS: COS TA RICA FOR WONDERFUL WILDLIFE AND ADVENTURES GALORE

TEENS: ARGENTINA FOR GOING GAUCHO, PATAGONIAN PEAKS AND BUZZING BUENOS AIRES

WORLD WORK EXPERIENCE

Travel is the perfect laboratory for later life choices

As any Desert Island Discs aficionado will tell you, it seems most majorly talented people develop a passion for their chosen career path in childhood. That makes family holidays the perfect opportunity to develop your children’s existing passions, but also to discover new ones. Whether it’s ‘backstage’ access to Indiana Jones-style archaeological digs in Egypt, becoming a zoologist for the day in Botswana or gazing at constellations in the company of a local astronomer, we can think of no greater inspiration than enjoying potentially life-defining experiences in beautiful destinations. We like to call it world work experience.

LITTLE CHEFS

Help them impress their friends by making the best bao buns in the land, as fresh as the ones they made themselves at a streetfood stall in Hanoi. Watch them learn how to handle Japanese knives (in short: with reverence and extreme care) and prepare tempura with a well-known Tokyo sushi chef. In Siena, the children can rub shoulders with nonnas who’ll introduce them to making authentic Italian pizza (arrivederci, Pizza Express) or they can receive a masterclass in Moroccan pastries from a local family in Essaouira.

HOW HANDY

Today’s young hands spend too much time wrapped around phones and tapping on keyboards. A holiday away from the technology that they know like the back of their hands – both literally and figuratively – means they can try a whole host of other hands-on activities instead. Test their dexterity while making pottery in Jordan, adobe in Peru and azulejo tiles in Madeira. Watch them get to grips with Chilean wood chisels, copy the age-old techniques used by Javanese craftsmen or work a traditional Japanese forge. Apart from being ready-made memory-makers, we’re confident these activities will stop even the most screen-addicted teen from scrolling.

© Claire Guarry

LET’S DANCE

Name a country or city that doesn’t love to dance. We’ll wait. From hiphop in Brooklyn and salsa in Cuba to sbhujwa in Soweto and bharata natyam in Rajasthan, there’s no better way to build up your little ones’ dance repertoire. Music and dance transcend language, too, so it’s only a matter of time before they make friends over koto chords in Japan and flamboyant flamenco footwork in the heart of Andalucia.

ANIMAL AFICIONADOS

Every child has a favourite animal, whether that’s a haughty cat, happy-go-lucky rabbit (unless it lives with the cat) or ever-faithful dog. Travel the world, though, and we have a feeling their loyalty could be tested, especially once they’ve cuddled a koala in Australia, given an orphaned baby cheetah its morning bottle in Zimbabwe or helped bathe a clan of elephants in Sri Lanka. Meet keepers, trackers, naturalists and biologists, and consider your job done when you return home with aspiring Attenboroughs and proto-Packhams.

© Alex Franco

THE GREEN LIFE

Today’s youth are the most eco-conscious generation in history. They care about sustainability, are acutely aware of the impact of climate change and aren’t afraid to take a stand to protect the planet. As a result, immersing them in the heart of some of the world’s most biodiverse rainforests and jungles is a no-brainer. Learn about the medicinal properties of Costa Rica’s plants alongside a member of the Bribri tribe, ogle at Borneo’s otherworldly flora and watch them marvel at bioluminescent plankton in the Maldives with an expert oceanographer who can explain the phenomenon.

SLEEP TIGHT

Make the bedtime routine part of the fun by sleeping at the top of a lighthouse in Norway, in a Berber camp in the middle of the desert or on a Keralan houseboat. Stay in a Nordic treehouse shaped like a UFO, or in a traditional Turkish troglodyte cave hotel where bedtime stories are accompanied by the hoots of owls. You’ll all be in for a good night’s sleep. Eventually.

© Alex Franco

AIM FOR THE STARS

Stargazing takes on a whole new meaning once you hit the polar circles. Witness the ‘holy grail’ of skywatching, the Northern Lights, in Sweden, and listen to tales from an experienced astronomer in Australia. Swap the bright lights of chaotic cities for light pollution free celestial skies and ethereal moonscapes in Chile’s Atacama Desert. Talk about broadening your brood’s horizons…

© Chloé Simon

A SPORTING CHANCE

Surfing off Maui, learning complex capoeira movements in Rio de Janeiro, skiing in the French Alps and riding through Italian hill country: travel and sport have always been inextricably linked. And often it’s the memories made on such trips that spawn lifelong sporting love affairs. After all, where better to learn how to sumo wrestle than in Tokyo, master the art of spin bowling than in Sri Lanka or pick up the rules of baseball than at Yankee Stadium?

PAPERBACK WRITERS

Encourage your little ones’ big dreams of becoming the next Julia Donaldson or Michael Morpurgo by visiting the destinations where their favourite books are set. Explore the Rome of Caroline Lawrence’s Roman Mysteries series, the Amazon so beautifully evoked in Eva Ibbotson’s Journey to the River Sea , or African safari destinations in search of Lauren St John’s White Giraffe . The children can then use the journal from their Original Travel destination pack to draft their first masterpiece.

© Claire Guarry

ACTION!

If you have young ones with an acting or directorial disposition, step outside the box(set) and dive into the worlds of their favourite storybook or superhero characters. Whether that’s along Italy’s Cinque Terre, which served as the backdrop for Disney’s Luca, or Sardinia, where the live-action Little Mermaid was shot. Retrace Indiana Jones’ footsteps through Petra in Jordan, see the real Star Wars ice planet of Hoth on the Eyjafjallajökull Glacier in Iceland or listen to the roars of a Lion King on safari in Kenya. And where better for budding actors to head for their bigscreen debut than Bollywood?

TRAVELLING AS A TRIBE

Modern families are about much more than the ‘2.4’.

Every family is different, with their own idiosyncrasies and interests. We relish the challenge of tailor-making a stress-free and inspirational family trip entirely from scratch. We know what questions to ask, what solutions will work, and how to weave everything together into one terrific and entirely tailor-made whole, whether it’s a 3G (Three Generational) trip or a parent and child bonding break.

3 REASONS TO TRAVEL AS A TRIBE

1

Making up for time lost to Covid, and because if not now, when?

2

It’s like a family Christmas, minus the freezing temperatures and Brussels sprouts

EGYPT, OR 3GYPT

FLANEUSE DU NIL, OUR HOUSE ON THE WATER

3

Anti-stress assets like Englishspeaking Concierges and 24-hour assistance

FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTELS

1 The place to be: in the best neighbourhoods, or near museums and beaches

2 Good vibes: activities galore for the children, zen options for the parents

3 Kids club: adapted to every age, plus teen workshops and warm swimming pools!

B-DAY D-DAYS

ONE-OFF CELEBRATIONS

Your youngest’s 10th birthday, the eldest’s 18th, their grandmother’s 80th: a birthday is also a very good excuse to congregate, catch up and blow out (both the candles and a meal).

Flaneuse du Nil embarks from the quayside in Esna on the east bank of the Nile, unfurling her two lateen sails. Thanks to the prevailing north wind, this dahabieh, a type of boat in use since the time of the pharaohs, glides elegantly upstream. She has just seven beautifully designed cabins, making her perfect for a 3G (Three Generational) trip with grandparents in tow. At the stern, the largest suite (reserved for whoever is paying!) has a private terrace. Meet in the cosy saloon for a game of charades, or a pre-dinner cocktail or hibiscus-infused mocktail. In the shade on the sundeck, delicious lunches are served by the crew. At each stopover, discover magnificent temples – Karnak, Edfu, Kom Ombo – and watch the children’s eyes widen at Sobek, the god with the crocodile head and other stories of Ancient Egypt.

CONTACT ONE OF OUR EGYPT CONSULTANTS ON +44 (0) 20 3911 0444

SLICES OF LIFE

Some things are true of all family holidays: children of different ages require radically different things, and the journey is every bit as important as the destination.

FROM 0 TO 5 YEARS OLD Limit flight and drive times. For example, don’t try a US road-trip before they’re seven years old, and consider jet lag (more for you than for them). Favour short haul destinations and ‘pushchair friendly’ cities (so long, hilly Lisbon). Consider relaxing destinations, although Mauritius and Thailand are paradise for children of all ages.

FROM 6 TO 11 YEARS OLD Constraints are diminishing and their imagination is growing. The time has come for the first epic trips: African safaris, taking a bite out of the Big Apple, learning to surf in Costa Rica... the list goes on.

FROM 12 TO 18 YEARS OLD They now have their own identities, their own characters. Trips to consider: Morocco’s medieval medinas, street art workshops in Melbourne, Tokyo in the footsteps of their favourite anime artists.

AT HOME, ABROAD

HOMES FOR ALL TASTES

LOFTY AMBITIONS

Hotels are not the only accommodation option. In places like Brooklyn or Berlin our consultants have the networks to find the loft apartment of your dreams.

ALL IN IT TOGETHER

An architect’s house in Iceland, a medieval inn in Chianti, a riad in Marrakech, a pousada in Brazil. Staying as an extended family under one roof and on the other side of the world is a true treat.

ORIGINAL THINKING

As our name suggests, we know the most original accommodation in each destination. From lighthouses to houseboats, from apartments in museums to private islands, we can recommend them all.

EVERYTHING FOR NDCHILDREN

TEEN SPIRIT

SOUTH KOREA

A new Original Travel destination, South Korea is a teen dream thanks to K-culture in all its manifestations, from K-pop to K-food. From Seoul, the ultra-tiktokable capital, to the beautiful island of Jeju, parents will love the country every bit as much, which is – let’s face it – quite important.

FAMILY PLANNING

ONE-OFF CELEBRATIONS

3G (THREE GENERATIONAL) HOLIDAYS

From the last born to the patriarch, why not take the whole clan? Our consultants know the places that work best for three generations: the most suitable accommodation, activities for all ages, the perfect pace for each person.

THE DIASPORA

With a sister in Sydney, cousins in Cape Town and grandparents in Grenada, it’s not easy to choose the ideal location and time to assemble your family or friends. Our consultants coordinate and adapt everyone’s schedule, so you focus on the essentials: enjoying each other’s company.

AT YOUR SERVICE

From arranging a last-minute surprise to reserving the largest table in a renowned restaurant, organising a picnic for 15 or experiences personalised according to age and interest: your English-speaking Concierge will oversee the logistics of the entire crew for you.

CONTACT ONE OF OUR EXPERT CONSULTANTS ON +44 (0) 20 3911 0444

1 24-hour assistance to reassure (especially the parents)

3 Flexibility and permanent contact with your Concierge and consultant EVERYTHING FOR GRAND PARENTS AND GRAND CHILDREN

2 Driver, guide, tours: everything in private for better bonding potential

A LAST HURRAH IN THE HIGH HAJARS

Words by Jane Knight

With his university years beckoning, Jane Knight wanted one more holiday with her son. Knowing it needed to be something exciting, she chose a climbing trip through the mountains of Oman. What could possibly go wrong?

My son and I are hanging off the edge of a sheer rock face in the starkly beautiful Hajar Mountains in Oman, half a mile above the canyon floor. His eyes are full of exhilaration, but I know that when he looks into mine, he will see nothing but abject terror. I might be clipped to a harness and following a via ferrata – a series of metal steps and hooks knocked into the rock – but logic is losing the battle with my overwhelming instinct to freeze.

How did holidays become this adrenaline-fuelled? It seems like only yesterday that Christian was happy meeting Mickey on holiday. Back then, years of happy holidays stretched ahead of us. Starting with gentle beach jaunts in the Indian Ocean and easy adventures in Jordan and Morocco, we graduated to ranching in America and swimming with penguins in the Galapagos. But after several photograph albums stuffed full of fantastic firsts – first time on the ski slopes, first safari, first cruise – it seemed that we were unexpectedly nearing the end; that final full stop to family holidays.

With his last day of school fast approaching, heralding holidays first with his mates, then with his girlfriend, before leaving for university, it was no longer a given that he would have either the time or inclination to jet off on a trip with his mother. This meant that what was likely to be our ‘last hurrah’ family holiday (as Original Travel call them) needed some serious thrill factor; a fly-and-flop simply wasn’t going to cut it.

But what to do? I draw the line at bungee jumping by the Victoria Falls or cage diving to see great whites, although I know he’d sign up in a heartbeat if I suggested either. Then I heard about a via ferrata along the side of a canyon in Oman’s mountainous interior. The pictures looked terrifying. They also prompted an instant reaction from my son. ‘When can we go?’ asked Christian. ‘It’s not really me, is it?’ I prevaricated. ‘And besides, I’m not sure I could do it with my knee” (after tearing my ligament on a gruelling hike to Dominica’s Boiling Lake a couple of years earlier, my dodgy knee has, on occasion, served as a useful get-out-of-jail-free card). ‘You’d do it if you loved me,’ he countered, playing his ace.

And so we packed for Oman, and adventure. We had visited

before, staying near Muscat in Shangri-La’s superb Barr Al Jissah in those gentle early-school years. Here, turtles scrambled to the sea after hatching on the beach, and a lovely long lazy river ran through the hotel; in hindsight an infinitely more appealing way to get around than a via ferrata. Shangri-La’s impressive backdrop came courtesy of the ancient Hajar Mountains, which form the backbone of Oman. I loved gazing back at them from the sea, but on this visit they would prove more than decorative scenery.

The two-hour drive up to the craggy roof of Arabia, snaking between mountainsides forever switching from pink to brown and back again under ever-changing skies, was capital ‘D’ dramatic. The country’s tallest mountain, Jabal Shams, stood out among peaks interspersed by spectacular troughs, including Wadi Ghul, aka: the Grand Canyon of Arabia. Here, too, is Jabal Akhdar, the ‘Green Mountain’, where farmers still grow their crops on terraces in the mountainside. And right on the brink of a precipitous canyon, some 6,500ft up, sits Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar, one of the highest five-star hotels in the world.

Like a contemporary version of one of the ancient forts that pepper Oman, the hotel makes the most of the landscape. The contemporary Arabic rooms all come with a canyon view, which you can appreciate from the comfort of your bed. The best villas have their own pools perched precariously along the edge of the gorge. Even if you don’t have one of these, you can still lap up the panorama from the infinity-edged main pool. You can also eat at the viewpoint where Princess Diana stood at the edge in 1986, long before the hotel was built. It’s quite a sight, gazing down the barrel of the canyon. As I took it all in, I tried not to think that I would soon be part of that view, clinging to the side of the abyss.

Instead, we set off to explore. The hotel garden, resplendent with roses, felt like something out of Beauty and the Beast. Jabal Akhdar is known as Oman’s fruit bowl, and the herb scented terraces were bursting with summer fruit, from apricots to pomegranates. Although we had arrived in Muscat to tarmacbuckling 40°C temperatures, mountain highs were in the low twenties, making it perfect walking weather. Even better, this landscape – akin to a giant’s rock garden – has plenty of trails to choose from, taking in local wadis and waterfalls, a fossil

'We had visited Oman before, staying

but on this visit they would prove more than decorative scenery.'

near Muscat, where turtles scrambled to the sea after hatching on the beach to an impressive backdrop of the ancient Hajar Mountains. I loved gazing back at them from the sea,

'One minute, we were on the ground; the next we were soaring, riding the thermals like an eagle, with a birdseye view of Oman’s eccentric Musandam Peninsula, an arid version of the Norwegian fjords.'

© Natalia Blauth/Unsplash

staircase and even an abandoned cave village.

We followed the Three Villages Trail straight from the hotel, tracing a network of ancient irrigation channels called falaj which feed the terraced hill farmsteads carved into the slopes. We passed hamlets, flourishing orchards, vegetable patches and riots of damask roses that the locals distil using old clay ovens, tarnished silver bowls and techniques passed down through generations. That rosewater is used in the hotel’s spa, which I visited on our return, enjoying the relaxing sensation as the deliciously scented liquid was delicately administered to my face. It was so relaxing, in fact, that I almost forgot about our activity the next day.

Finally the day dawned. Fully kitted up, it was time to hit the wall (hopefully not literally). ‘I’ve heard there are exit points along the way if it’s too hard,’ I said nervously to our patient guide Hussain Al Zakwani. ‘Yes, but you’ll be fine,’ he replied. 'I clung to that thought, along with the rockface, as I inched my way along the ‘Ultimate Activity Wall’. Once I’d overcome the instinct to freeze, I decided that the best policy was to go as fast as possible, trying not to think about it or look down. Actually, it wasn’t as bad as I’d thought – I even managed to

appreciate the view when we sat on a scenic ledge for photos, spotting the tiniest of foxes running across the rocks below, as well as the distant village where Hussain had grown up. The series of monkey holds in the rock was the worst part; the two short zip wires, the best. We finished in less than half the estimated two-hour time it normally takes, albeit sweatcovered and with very wobbly legs.

After a well-earned rest and swim back at our villa, I felt reasonably confident tackling the second via ferrata, especially as we already had the ‘Ultimate’ version under our belt. I’d been assured that the ‘Extreme Activity Wall’ was only considered slightly more difficult because of a rickety steel bridge at the end. What could possibly go wrong?

I knew I was in trouble when the initial descent developed into a ridiculously steep gorge. A hand on both walls, I edged (or wedged) myself along precariously. Further along, the footholds felt like hairline fractures. Every ounce of body strength and stretch was needed to haul myself up the rock face. At one outcrop, I had to rely on blind faith, swinging my leg round the rock, hoping it would find a foothold on the other side. ‘How did your legs reach on that last bit, mum?’

‘We walked the trail past hamlets, flourishing orchards, vegetable patches and riots of damask roses that the locals distil into rosewater using old clay ovens, tarnished silver bowls and techniques passed down through generations.’

my six-foot-two son asked in a respectful tone I hadn’t heard before. Goodness knows.

I felt as old as the rock by the time we reached the finale: a wonky, wobbling 110ft steel bridge. Petrified and swaying high above the canyon floor, I cast around frantically for the promised escape route. ‘Ah, that’s me, actually’ admitted Hussain. ‘I can climb up here and let a rope down for you.’ Deciding that was fire to my current frying pan situation, I set off across the bridge, gaze focused ahead, and my mind’s eye on the beer I’d savour in the restaurant when my feet were firmly on the ground again.

They weren’t destined to stay there long. After that welcome beer and our last night beneath star-studded skies, we swapped mountain for coast and Six Senses Zighy Bay, and in true James Bond style, made our entrance by paraglider.

As it turned out, there wasn’t a lot of running and certainly no jumping involved. When the wind gushed into the canopy, it came with such force that I was quickly dragged skywards. Thankfully my pilot Bobby, from Bulgaria, was strapped into the harness behind me. One minute, we were on the ground; the next we were soaring, riding the thermals like an eagle, with a birds-eye view of Oman’s eccentric Musandam Peninsula, an arid version of the Norwegian fjords. It felt so serene and magical – a real mountain high – that I quickly relaxed and started to enjoy the ride.

Below me, the road followed a series of hairpin turns

through sleepy villages and across rocky inlets. I could see the idyllic bay with the hotel’s rustic-chic villas strung along it, beautifully designed with stone and wood to mimic an Omani village. I could even make out their individual patches of blue (each villa has its own private pool). All too soon we were preparing to land. Bobby had told me to try and walk, not sit, on landing, but the message clearly hadn’t reached my legs and I ended up in an inelegant crumple on the beach. Nevertheless, the seven-minute flight left me with an overwhelming urge to get back up the mountain and do it again, which I would have suggested had Bobby not needed to pick up Christian for his flight (and subsequent seamless landing, rather annoyingly).

Now, the mile-long white sands of Zighy Bay awaited. I felt I had earned the right to kick back and relax, enjoying indulgent pampering at the spa, and using my legs for short cycles from our villa to the resort’s restaurants, where we inhaled platters piled with fresh seafood supplied by a local fishing village just along the shore.

I looked into my son’s eyes and I saw a newfound respect for his adventurous mum. I sensed that he’d enjoyed himself so much that perhaps this wasn’t our last hurrah holiday after all. •

3 BEST REASONS TO GO

1

Oman is one big adventure playground of beaches, mountains and desert

2

This is an ideal spot for introducing children (from ten) to the delights of diving

THE LITTLE LIBRARY

FOR CHILDREN:

A IS FOR ARABIA by Julia Johnson

3

There are excellent familyfriendly hotels throughout Oman

NEED TO KNOW

A surefire way to kill at least an hour or two of the flight, this picture book takes children on an alphabetical tour of Arabia, from souqs and sand to jebels and local customs. We’re sure they’ll be clued up by touchdown.

FOR TEENS:

THE TURTLE OF OMAN by Naomi Shihab Nye Shihab Nye’s novel tells the story of little Aref Al-Amri who, instead of packing for his move from Oman to Michigan, enjoys last-minute adventures with his friend Siddi; sleeping on Siddi’s rooftop, fishing in the Gulf of Oman and watching turtles hatch and head to sea.

FOR GROWN-UPS:

ARABIAN SANDS by Wilfred Thesiger

A captivating autobiographical account of Thesiger’s travels through the Empty Quarter and interactions with the Bedu people, this travel classic chronicles his experiences of their everyday challenges beneath the relentless sun.

1 The best times of year: February and October half terms, Easter and Christmas holidays are all great. Avoid summer!

2 Get there : there are daily direct flights from London to Muscat

3 Budget: from £2,400 per person for a one-week adventure in Muscat and the mountains, including flights, accommodation, guides and activities

DON’T MISS

STARGAZING IN THE DESERT

If imposing bedtimes is a struggle at the best of times, then good luck putting the children to bed after a day spent exploring the desert dunes of the Wahiba Sands. Fortunately, come nightfall, they can try their hand at stargazing with a high-powered telescope and zero light pollution while you sip on mint tea under a blanket of stars.

WHY US?

OUR CONSULTANTS

Lucy Bailey is one of Conde Nast Traveler’s illustrious Top Travel Specialists thanks to her in-depth knowledge of the country. ‘In Oman you can go from rugged mountains to endless sand seas in the space of a few hours, fitting in a dolphin spotting boat trip en route.’

OUR CONCIERGES

Hizra is based in Muscat and loves photography and theatre. She can organise private dhow cruises or dive trips, recommend detours to discover hidden mountain villages, arrange a meeting with the best local chefs, or schedule that family trip to see dolphins.

CONTACT ONE OF OUR OMAN SPECIALISTS ON +44 (0) 20 3911 0444

GO WELL

Whatever your destination and duration, a family trip is a great opportunity to spend quality, screen-free time together. And because each tribe is different, our family trips are tailor-made exclusively to yours, according to your preferred pace, accommodation, activities and interests. Travelling with your family has never been easier.

LIFE IS IN THE DETAIL

We believe passionately that Life is in the Detail, so we’re constantly on the lookout for new experiences, from nocturnal wildlife spotting in Costa Rica to treasure hunts in Bangkok and baking classes in New York – the choice is as vast as your children's imagination. We also regularly revisit our destinations to find out what’s new and improved, what flight times work best and what accommodation might no longer warrant the ‘family-friendly' tag. We also hold regular client focus groups to hear the views of those key constituencies – parents and children. Our recent 'pester power' research has helped us understand children’s needs and wants even more.

WE ARE (QUITE LITERALLY) FAMILY

Our team is made up of parents and family travel experts, and as such we appreciate the pressures and pitfalls of planning a top-notch family holiday. Our consultants pick out the accommodation best suited for families: those with kids' clubs, dedicated children’s services, little extras, and – most of all – early check-in to your rooms after a morning arrival, or late checkout for evening departures. Similarly, they consider the choice of flight departure times and the feasibility of connections, the time spent on the road each day, and generally every logistical detail that will affect your children’s patience and, consequently, your own peace of mind.

OUR BIG BLACK BOOK

We work with the best guides in every destination, but while an art historian might be best to accompany a couple around a notable museum, an academic approach will likely prove a no-no with the niños (children). Instead, we might try to organise a children’s book illustrator to guide the family, and spark their imaginations.

FUN & GAME

Stephanie Drax takes her boys on a safari trip to the Okavango Delta, where they swap screentime for dugout canoe adventures and ranger training skills.

Words by Stephanie Drax

Pictures from different trips by Coke Bartrina, Nuria Val & Pie Aerts

The Okavango Delta is a water-drenched country club for Africa’s most charismatic mammals, from elephants, buffaloes and rhinos to giraffes and big cats in big numbers. This unique (in the true sense of the word) ecosystem, where the Okavango River spills not into a sea or lake but the Kalahari Desert, also supports over 500 species of bird. Given all that, it’s not an ideal start when we walk out onto the deck of our secluded lodge to admire 180-degree views of pristine wilderness and Milo, my seven-year-old, asks: ‘Where’s the TV?’ Without missing a beat, our guide surveys the savannah. ‘Welcome to the largest flatscreen TV in the world’, he says.

Humans are few and far between here. A 9,000 square mile oasis in Botswana’s parched Kalahari Desert, the delta is saturated after every austral summer by floodwaters from the highlands of Angola that flow through Namibia and diffuse into Botswana. From the air, the delta’s glistening tendrils appear to melt into a matrix of grasslands and golf-course-green islands, with the animal inhabitants benefitting from a buffet of vegetation.

As we enjoy an afternoon cake on arrival, it’s Milo who now gasps: an elephant and her calf have trundled over to munch noisily on the leaves of a tree next to us. We are staying at Duba Plains Camp and cultivating and protecting wildlife encounters like these – while offering guests extraordinary comfort and style – is in the DNA of Great Plains Conservation, the visionaries behind the place.

Great Plains was founded by Emmy award-winning wildlife filmmakers Dereck and Beverly Joubert, a couple who coined ‘Conservation Tourism’ when they launched the first of their 15 African camps back in 2006. Filming animals in the bush for months on end gave them a chilling perspective on a fast-changing continent. They determined to raise funds for the rescue and restoration of the top predators and wild places they saw disappearing before their eyes. With hospitality standards in perfect harmony with sustainability ideals, their concept encourages lowvolume, low-impact tourism, and for visitors to savour slowness in safari.

Capturing the hearts and minds of future conservationists is also central to their latest initiative: the Young Explorers Programme. Milo and my younger son Noah are each handed a backpack with an expedition journal, activity book, quiz and a local game called dikgomo (a more exciting version of noughts and crosses). The pack teems with knowledge about the creatures, culture and constellations of Botswana, and a glossary of Setswana words for the boys to practise with the camp staff. The checklist of exotic mammals they might encounter fills a double page spread.

Then it’s time to meet the neighbours. As Rapz Samati, our ranger, takes us out for our first afternoon drive, we’re serenaded by the high-pitched chime of reed frogs with hippos grunting on bass. We don’t get far: Duba is on an island, and the log bridge that links us to the floodplains is heaving with unfussed vervet monkeys. We inch forward –nature already dictating our pace – which allows me time to snap heart-melting monkey eyes with my long lens camera (there’s a DSLR in every guest room). Despite this being well after the flood’s peak, the scenery seems verdant, and the baobabs, feverberry bushes and rain trees are bathed in honeyed hues.

A monkey in a sausage tree squawks, alerting us to predators nearby. We go in pursuit, passing grazing rhinos and red lechwe antelopes, and the boys love the thrill of 4x4 ‘hide and seek’. Soon we spot a lazing lion and his restless, amorous mate. Bored of being ignored, she curls around our vehicle instead, giving us the eye. We share a long sundown with these splendid creatures, safe within 82,000 acres of Great Plains protected reserve and with no one else around. ‘This is the best thing I’ve ever done,’ whispers Milo, ‘I’m going to make lots of money and use it to come back here.’ And just like that, a conservationist adventurer is born.

The tourist dollars generated by the Great Plains portfolio, long-term partners of Original Travel, work hard to benefit the communities from whom the land is leased. The projects are ambitious: from training potential poachers to be rangers and introducing a force of female rangers to educating local children in conservation practices and relocating rhinos from poaching hot spots to Great

'On the canoe trip, I’m clenching both boys maniacally as they lean over the edge to look at a crocodile bobbing ominously in the water, all jagged teeth and crooked smile.'

© Coke Bartrina

Plains’ safe havens. With rhinos killed at the rate of one every seven hours in Southern Africa in 2015, Great Plains gradually brought 87 rhinos to Botswana to live and breed.

Africa’s natural world has long been in sharp focus for the Jouberts. Their photography and filmmaking skills have given them an eye for detail that’s expressed through the design of their intimate camps. Duba Plains has only six suites, and we’re in the vast family tent that boasts double the features of the other five: canopied beds with crisp, white sheets, outdoor rain showers, free-standing baths and two outdoor plunge pools (the children can’t believe their luck). Gourmet cuisine, served either in our tent or in the main boma (enclosure), is a fusion of fine Western dishes and local delicacies of chakalaka, seswaa and morogo (admittedly more of a challenge for our children’s taste buds). Given the remoteness of where we are, what we eat feels like alchemy.

Our first dawn game drive feels chilly, but the children are fuelled by hot chocolate and curiosity. As we scan

the landscape, spying on mammalian morning rituals, we catch a glimpse of a leopard leaping down from a tree. It has been feasting on the remains of a warthog dragged up into the branches out of reach of scavengers. Noah is stunned to learn that a leopard can carry prey twice its own weight. It then disappears without trace, so the boys take a moment to pepper Rapz with a Q&A of ‘what’s more deadly? Leopard or lion? Rhino or cheetah?’ ‘Elephant or human?’ counters Rapz, eventually, giving the boys pause for thought.

That afternoon we come across a pack of African wild dogs, sporting their distinctive mottled coats and Mickey Mouse ears. They’re a highly endangered species but the Okavango supports their survival. We spend an hour moving with the adult pair as they observe the graceful, grazing red lechwe antelopes, chasing them almost playfully in and out of the streams. We photograph the pups, who wait patiently for their dinner. Given the letchwes’ size advantage, two wild dogs don’t seem a threat. But then, in a flash of dust at dusk, under a sky the colour of papaya flesh, the dogs leap

‘In a flash of dust under a sky the colour of papaya flesh, the wild dogs leap on an unlucky lechwe. It’s a painfully slow demise, vivid and visceral. The boys are transfixed. ‘This is balance,’ says the guide, simply.’

on the delicate underside of an unlucky lechwe, ripping at its most vulnerable parts. It’s a painfully slow demise, vivid and visceral, that I can’t bear to photograph. The boys, though, are transfixed. ‘This is balance,’ says Rapz simply.

Our slow safari has an aquatic second act. The next morning, we climb into a boat to drift meditatively down channels through the delta. Tall reeds – ‘like peacock feathers’, says Milo – line the banks; these are papyrus plants from which paper is made. It’s immediately a different view on wildlife: a two-tonne cape buffalo cooling himself in the water plays peekaboo through the vegetation and a family of ten elephants wallow in mud. But it’s now the birds that steal our attention. Gem-like malachite kingfishers and goliath herons, sacred ibis once revered in Ancient Egypt and globally threatened wattled cranes all take turns outstripping our boat.

At the far side of a hippo-laden lagoon, Sitatunga, Great Plains’ newest camp, sits in a stand of ebony trees. We step off the boat and into a Robinson Crusoe vision of thatch and reclaimed wood, South African railway sleepers enjoying a second life as Sitatunga’s decking. It’s exclusive to eight guests at a time, and our enormous family suite – designed to evoke a fisherman’s basket – has all the amenities of Duba Plains but with the latest handpicked treasures from the Jouberts’ travels. Both properties tread

so lightly they can be removed without trace.

We slip into an afternoon water safari with Pat Malatsi, father of six and our new ranger. He is from the local Bayei tribe and instantly charms my boys by softly calling to birds – a swamp boubou and a little rush warbler – who call straight back. As we idly float down a wide waterway, snacking on cocktail sausages and crisps, Noah takes out his notebook and quizzes Pat on wildlife facts. Hippos, he jots down carefully in his best writing, can hold their breath underwater for five minutes, and crocodiles can grow up to 19ft long.

Nile crocodiles, the type that exist here in the Okavango, are the strongest gripping animal on Earth, adds Pat to the trivia. I challenge him on that when, moments later, I’m clenching both boys maniacally as they lean over the boat to look at a crocodile bobbing ominously in the water, all jagged teeth and crooked smile. Meanwhile, Pat casually cups his hand and scoops it through the water, quenching his thirst by drinking from the delta.

Later, we swap stories with other guests over sundowners on the jetty – we’ve seen no-one else all day, defying the tourist scrums you so often experience on safari – while the wonderful staff hive the boys off to teach them the dikgomo game over mocktails. Chef Harald cooks up a

'From the air, the Okavango Delta’s glistening tendrils of water appear to melt into a matrix of grasslands and golf-course-green islands, with the animal inhabitants benefitting from a buffet of vegetation.'

made-to-order stir fry that night, offering a kaleidoscope of vegetables, herbs, spices and sauces to choose from. It’s all so exquisitely presented that my vegetable-averse boys can’t resist. But there’s comfort knowing that all the food waste here is converted to biogas used for cooking or as slurry for farming projects.

The best way to appreciate the tranquillity of the Okavango is from a traditional mokoro. It’s a vessel unique to the area, a dugout canoe able to access the tiny, twisting channels bigger boats can’t reach. Milo and I clamber in carefully, and a colleague of Pat’s pushes us gently along with a punting pole. I feel especially vulnerable being level with the water as we press quietly through reeds that might camouflage all manner of delta creatures.

We arrive at a lagoon and come face-to-face with a pod of 35 wallowing hippos, each one a tank of glistening muscle. The alpha male is not pleased to see us, opening his fleshy pink mouth to showcase a rack of intimidating dental features. I’m reminded of Noah’s fun fact that when a hippo opens its mouth it’s the same height as his brother.

Milo sits in front of me in our delicate mokoro looking increasingly like an amuse-bouche.

Pat is in the mokoro ahead and motions for us to be still and silent. For once, as if their survival depends on it, my two boys do what they’re told. The hippopotamus, notorious for being territorial and bad-tempered, is the world’s deadliest large land mammal and particularly so in the water. For Pat though, these meetings are common, and his instincts allow us to stay a while before we retreat into the rushes.

For some time, we watch them, and they watch us – all of us involved in a dramatic live episode of ‘Life in the Okavango: the world’s only inland delta’. This is reality, not a rendition. Full and unedited, it is an intimate encounter between human beings and hippos that, as a family, we will forever replay in our memories. This experience might just mean that when the boys are older and paying their own way, this is the kind of remote they will reach for. •

3 BEST REASONS TO GO

1

The animals of the Okavango Delta put the ‘wild’ into wildlife

2

Meeting the meerkats of the Kalahari Desert

THE LITTLE LIBRARY

FOR CHILDREN:

3

Ranger training, from learning to track to identifying animal calls

NEED TO KNOW

SING TO THE MOON by Nansubuga Nagadya Isdahl

The perfect ‘Skip Gen’ (grandparent and grandchild) read chronicling a little boy’s big dreams and his grandfather’s simultaneous encouragement and belief that magic can appear anywhere, even when washing the dishes.

FOR TEENS:

NOW IS THE TIME FOR RUNNING by Michael Williams

Winner of the 2014 UKLA Award, this extraordinary story follows two brothers on a quest to find their father in rural Zimbabwe during the height of Mugabe’s rule. With just one chance to cross the border, expect heartstrings to be yanked hard.

FOR GROWN-UPS:

CRY OF THE KALAHARI by Delia Owens

This incredible memoir charts the seven years Delia and Mark Owens lived in the Kalahari while embarking on pioneering zoology research. The images alone will floor you (and make you want to see their wild animal subjects for yourself even more).

1 The best time of year: summer sees the Okavango channels fill up, but Green Season (from November to March) is better value and there are baby animals in abundance

2 Get there: overnight flights to Johannesburg and on to Maun

3 Budget: from £6,500 per person for flights, accommodation and safari activities

DON’T MISS MEETING BUSHMEN

The Zu’hoasi bushmen of the Western Kalahari have survived for thousands of years in this harsh desert environment. Set out on foot from a traditional village to learn about their hunter-gatherer existence, from identifying edible plants to desert survival skills.

WHY US?

OUR CONSULTANTS

Resident South African James is another of our Conde Nast Traveler Top Travel Specialists, specifically for Botswana. He’s also a dad, so knows what works best for children of all ages when planning a safari.

OUR CONCIERGE

Originally from France, Sandrine emigrated to England for her studies before settling in Cape Town. She can organise a helicopter flight over the delta or a surprise birthday party in the depths of the Kalahari Desert.

CONTACT ONE OF OUR BOTSWANA SPECIALISTS ON +44 (0) 20 3911 0444

SAFARI KIDS

How to safari better

OBSERVE IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION

Because of the way we read and write, Westerners’ eyes are used to tracking from left to right. On safari, that tends to become our way of scouring the horizon, too. Reverse things — so survey from right to left instead — and the novelty immediately forces your brain to be more alert. While scanning, look for unusual, out-of-place shapes or colours — and be prepared to accept that at least 50% of them will, maddeningly, turn out to be termite mounds rather than a pride of lions.

LISTEN OUT Prey animals, from baboons to francolins, emit specific warning calls – usually to alert other group members – whenever they glimpse a predator. The best alarm calls to recognise are those of bushbucks, nyalas and, most reliably of all, kudus. The latter’s loud bark tends to be a cast-iron guarantee that a lion, leopard or cheetah is close. Pinpoint the kudu call and you have a great chance of locating an elusive predator nearby, especially if you can see the direction in which the sentinel is staring.

KNOW YOUR HABITATS Leopards notoriously like to haul their kills up into trees, where other bigger, non-climbing predators can’t plunder them. Less recognised, however, is the fact that

they tend to favour certain types of trees, such as shady jackalberry, sausage trees, marulas and weeping boer-beans, so keep your eyes peeled on their branches. Leopards aren’t the only animals to have a head for heights either. Giraffes relish acacia tree leaves above all, and that same genus – along with sycamore figs –proves popular among Uganda’s tree-climbing lions. Cheetahs, meanwhile, are most often found in open, flattish grasslands, where they can seek cover and still clock dangerous hyenas or lions from afar.

SENSE OF SMELL It’s a wholly unpleasant smell, but the putrid stench of an animal carcass is like a safari flare: until completely devoured, remains may be the scene of scavenging hyenas, vultures – perhaps waiting in trees or circling ominously above – and, when near water, crocodiles. Other useful aromas to recognise are the popcornesque pong of leopards’ scent-marking urine, elephants’ equine aroma and the cow-like whiff of buffalo herds.

WATER SOURCES Most prey animals drink during mornings and early evenings to avoid the heat of the day and attack by unseen predators who stalk rivers or springs at such hours in the hope of a potential meal. Consequently,

lingering quietly near a water source at sunrise or sunset should greatly increase your chances of memorable encounters.

WATCH THE CLOCK The cooler hours of the day, around dawn and dusk, tend to be when animals are at their most active. Come hotter times of day, you’re better off looking under shady trees for lazing lions or seeking out reptiles who use the sun to kick-start their metabolism.

PATIENCE IS KEY Don’t let restlessness get the better of you. Even if your children suggest moving on, try to give it a bit longer. Sitting still and quietly (crucial) often yields wondrous rewards in the end – just as moving rarely does.

PLAY DETECTIVE ‘What would Sherlock Holmes think?’ Always a useful adage when inspecting animal footprints on walking safaris. Lions love to use human roads or tracks (because they’re far less effort to traverse than dense bush), and they often leave tell-tale tracks, which are especially visible at dawn. Fresh elephant or rhino dung is helpful evidence that they passed by not long before; ditto the calcium-white scat of hyenas. Encourage the children to try and distinguish the tracks or droppings of their favourite animals, in the process improving the odds of seeing them.

GO WITH THE FLAMENCO

by Andrane de Barry

Thanks to a plethora of direct flights and some of Europe’s most reliable weather from early spring to late autumn, Spain’s mainland and islands are right in the sweet spot for travel with toddlers and babies. Andrane de Barry and her young family made the most of pre-school freedom to tick off two of Spain’s most interesting destinations, the curious Canary island of Lanzarote, and the more mainstream mainland classic, Andalucia.

Photos

3 BEST REASONS TO GO

1

Learning to surf in the Basque capital, San Sebastian

2

Beaches, biking and boat trips in the Balearics

THE LITTLE LIBRARY

FOR CHILDREN:

3

From tapas to paella, Spanish food is both adventurous and delicious

NEED TO KNOW

THE STORY OF FERDINAND by Munro Leaf Ferdinand the bull prefers to smell flowers than fight bulls. Originally published in the 1930s, this timeless story about being true to yourself will be a fan favourite long after you’ve returned from your Spanish adventure.

FOR TEENS:

THE FOUNTAINS OF SILENCE by Ruta Sepetys

Under General Francisco Franco’s dictatorship, Spaniards live in fear. Among them are wealthy heir Daniel, and Ana, a maid, who live in Madrid. A portrait of love and secrecy, this historical novel, set in the late 1950s, is sure to have your teens swooning.

FOR GROWN-UPS:

THE SUN ALSO RISES by Ernest Hemingway Hemingway’s first novel follows Lost Generation poster children Brett and Jake from Paris to Pamplona for its annual bull-fighting fiesta. Expect matador mystique, charming café culture and hedonism in all its glory.

1 The best time of year: Spain’s cities work well year-round except in high summer, and the islands in summer and early autumn

2 Get there: fly to several cities in mainland Spain, the Balearics and Canaries, or take the train to Barcelona in a day

3 Budget: £1,100 per person for a city break in Madrid, Barcelona or Seville, including flights, accommodation and family-friendly activities

DON’T MISS

DONANA NATIONAL PARK

Under an hour from Seville, Donana National Park is a labyrinth of lagoons, forests and marshes fringed by pristine beaches. Families can try their hands at hiking, biking or riding, and spot many migrating bird species, including – during the summer months – bright pink flamingos.

WHY US?

OUR CONSULTANTS

Our Europe team revisits Spain on an annual basis, exploring new regions such as ‘Green Spain’ in the north and test-driving new experiences specifically for families.

OUR CONCIERGE

In main Spain, Rafael is a true connoisseur of his country, able to arrange flamenco lessons at the click of a castanet. Meanwhile, Mallorcan resident Cecilia knows the best of the Balearics, from beaches to babysitters. And finally, Frances can conjure up anything for families in the Canaries.

CONTACT ONE OF OUR SPAIN SPECIALISTS ON +44 (0) 20 3911 0444

Our partnership with...

SHARKY & GEORGE

For years, Original Travel has worked closely with Sharky & George, the UK’s leading children’s party planners. Collectively, our two companies have come up with ever-more creative ways to make the family holiday experience fun, fulfilling and informative for children and parents alike. It’s been a perfect partnership in more ways than one as the eponymous George married Rosie, who worked at Original Travel for well over a decade! Here are the ways in which our partnerships can enhance your trip.

FAMILY TRAVEL PACKS

Every child aged three to ten who goes on an Original Travel holiday receives one of our family packs. With a doodle-strewn world map, travel journal and quiz/fun facts on your destination, they are designed to entertain and inform children, pique their curiosity and provide some much-needed distraction and interest in those flashpoint ‘I’m bored’ moments like the airport or a long transfer. The packs are also entirely recyclable.

MIND THE PACK

A different sort of pack, where one of the Sharky & George team comes to your home to keep the children entertained while you crack on uninterrupted with packing, cancelling the milk delivery, writing instructions for the pet-sitter and everything else that needs to be done before the holiday can begin. The service is also available for your return, so you can sort the laundry, food shop and more. Game changer!

PARTNER IN CRIME (PIC)

One of Sharky & George’s Partners in Crime can come for some or all of your family holiday, keeping the little ones occupied so parents can enjoy some downtime. They can even fly out and sit with the children on the plane, fielding all requests for snacks and ‘are we nearly there yets?’, and coming up with creative ways to pass the hours on board. In destination, the PIC will keep kids endlessly entertained with challenges, adventures and missions. Think of them as a mobile, one-(wo)man kids’ club.

HOLIDAY HIGH JINKS

We tailor-make your holiday from scratch, so why not include a supercreative and curated Sharky & George adventure for the whole family as part of your trip? Think pirate treasure hunts in the Caribbean, complete with actual walking the plank, water fights and kayak chases; or a Race Across the Worldstyle adventure filled with challenges and tasks.

GOOD LUCCA CHARM

Words and photos by Tom Barber

Illustrations by Elliot Beaumont

In a longstanding family tradition, every year Original Travel Co-founder Tom Barber takes his children and parents on a bike ride around the medieval walls of the lovely Tuscan city of Lucca. It’s the perfect 3G (Three Generational) experience. Most of the time.

It’s official: my children are spoilt rotten. Having a father who founded a travel company specialising in tailor-made family holidays means they’ve been lucky enough to visit some of the most magical destinations in the world. They’ve dived with dolphins in the Maldives, been on riding safari in South Africa, swum in cenote sinkholes in Mexico, sailed around the Cyclades, snorkelled in Oman… I could go on, but like I say, spoilt rotten.

And yet... when I recently asked the four of them (now aged 12 to 16) what their single favourite travel experience has been, it turns out not to have been anything particularly far-flung, or terribly glamorous. Nope, in fact, they unanimously agreed (a rarity in itself) that best of all was cycling around the medieval walls of the charming and understated Tuscan city of Lucca.

Turns out they were (relatively) cheap dates all along, and I’m secretly relieved that all those lovely research trips and holidays haven’t turned them entirely into entitled little monsters. But to the uninitiated, I imagine this begs the question: what’s so special about Lucca? Well, quite a lot, actually.

To start with, we’re talking about the sweetest of sweet spots; arguably the best bit of the best country in the world for family travel. Italy is the gift that keeps on giving for anyone with children. The weather, the landscapes, the accessible (for the most part) cultural highlights, the array of activities on offer, the friendly locals and, of course, the food, which includes most children’s holy trinity of pizza, pasta and ice cream. You know all this already, but it’s a delicious combination, and the reason Italy is still Original Travel’s most popular destination.

And while a Roman city break, Dolomite ski trip or Sardinian beach week can swiftly become family favourites, time spent in Tuscany is also a classic consideration. Pop to under-rated Pisa for the obligatory ‘holding up the Leaning Tower’ photo opp; introduce tweens and teens to the Renaissance in all its glory in Florence; stay in a glorious hilltop villa with pool surrounded by cypress trees; Tuscany works its magic in many ways, but the inclusion

of a day exploring Lucca should be, in my humble opinion, non-negotiable.

First, the history bit: Lucca was one of the Italian peninsula’s most prominent city-states in the centuries before the country’s reunification, with power, influence and wealth centred on the medieval gem of a city itself. At first glance, the city might seem like many others in Tuscany – that beguiling combination of cobbled streets, faded saffron yellow walls and red terracotta roofs, but what sets Lucca apart are the entirely intact medieval walls (fun fact: the second longest in Europe, after those of Nicosia in Cyprus) that enclose the old town within. Not only are these beautiful red brick walls long, but they are also extremely thick, to the extent that they accommodate a tree-lined ring road (minus the cars), several parks and the occasional museum and restaurant.

When you arrive at the city, enter through the grand Santa Maria gates and wander across to Poli, the horizontally laidback bicycle hire shop. They might (or might not) ask you for a passport or driver’s licence as a deposit, but you only pay when you return the bikes. And then it’s decision time because, boy, have they got some cycles to choose from. Bikes for all ages, bikes with baskets, mountain bikes, bikes with 'stables' (as Athena, our youngest, used to call stabilisers), tandem bikes and more. If it’s looking likely to rain, they even stretch to covered six-seater riscio (rickshaws), which are excruciatingly touristy but good for team bonding or family rows (delete as applicable) as you must coordinate the pedalling to go up any inclines.

Incidentally, this might be the point at which to sing the praises of Lucca for 3G (Three Generational) holidays as well. The reason for my family’s repeated visits to the city is that my mother and (sadly departed) stepfather live 20 minutes away and a day in Lucca became the perfect way for grandparents and grandchildren to spend time together (united – so the saying goes – by a common enemy). The riscios are also an excellent way for grandparents who are no longer so keen on biking to join in the fun without having to pedal too much; they can instead delegate that task to younger generations.

'When we stop for a breather, the children love to count the city’s remaining medieval torri (towers), that sprouted skywards as familial status symbols in the city during the 14th century. Only nine remain, including the iconic Torre Guinigi, 150ft tall and easily identifiable by the holm oak trees that grow on the roof.'

'The children know Lucca’s best gelaterias, down to details on the finest flavours and best consistency cones. On this, their chosen specialist subject, the children are truly encyclopaedic.'

Weather and age permitting, though, everyone should ride their own bikes. The full circuit takes about 20 minutes at a leisurely pace with wonderful views of the city within the walls from on high. You can all meander along at your own pace, safe in the knowledge that there’s only one way to go and making sure to peer down into grand gardens, including the particularly lovely botanical garden, commissioned by Maria Luisa, a Spanish infanta and later Duchess of Lucca, in the 19th century. Depending on the time of year, you know the garden is coming up from the scent of either azaleas or pinecones drifting through the air. Another of the many pleasures on the walls is seeing the ever-elegant Lucchese (residents of Lucca) going about their business. More often than not, the children demand to go round at least twice, so you’ll often see the same super-stylish joggers, dog walkers, young lovers and old chaps playing dominoes on your circumnavigations.

When we stop for a breather, the children love to count the city’s medieval torri (towers). Of the hundreds that sprouted skywards as familial status symbols in the city during the 14th century, only nine remain, including the iconic Torre Guinigi, 150ft tall and easily identifiable by the holm oak trees that grow on the roof. Top tip: climbing the 233 steps to the roof is an excellent way of burning off any residual post-gelato sugar highs, and the views are suitably spectacular.

Back on the walls, and in the spirit of being a repetitive father, I make sure to point out the enormous arrowheadshaped protrusions known as baluardi (bastions) and explain that they were designed to allow defenders to fire back on attackers attempting to scale the main city walls. Assorted other ‘dad facts’ tend to follow, from identifying the street in which the great operatic composer Puccini (of Tosca and Madame Butterfly fame) was born; Dante and Napoleon’s Lucca connections and an explanation of how the city was where Pompey, Caesar and Crassus reaffirmed the partnership – the Triumvirate – that would lead inexorably to the downfall of the Roman Republic and the era of the emperors. I'm not entirely convinced the children take it all (or any) in, but what they could absolutely tell you, without hesitation, and down to details on the finest flavours and best consistency cones, is

Lucca’s best gelaterias. On that chosen specialist subject, the children are truly encyclopaedic.

On the subject of food, once everyone has worked up a good appetite, deliver the bikes back to Poli and tuck into decent pizza at the imaginatively named Pizzeria in Santa Maria next door. For a swankier but still child-friendly lunch, try Da Giulio, about a third of the way around the walls from Piazza Santa Maria and accessed by another of the ramps, so you can freewheel down and leave the bikes outside. The children invariably order the penne al ragu, but grown-ups should definitely try the matuffi, a soft polenta dish that’s a local Lucchese speciality. There’s another ideal little playground next door where children can play while you enjoy a doppio (double espresso) before resuming the ride.

Lucca’s walls are never on big tour groups’ agendas, so they tend to be tourist free, but over the years we have definitely noticed an increase in the number of tourists (we don’t count, you see, what with Mum being a local resident) as Lucca belatedly begins to blip on the radar. In town, as is so often the case, you only need take one turn off the jumble of main streets and you won’t glimpse a single rolled up yellow umbrella or trail of tourists, just life moving elegantly along in much the same way it always has. Even better, come evening, and when it’s time for the passeggiata, that most Italian of traditions, the day-trippers from Florence have gone completely.

As elsewhere in Italy, Lucca’s passeggiata sees locals take to the streets to walk, chat (another national pastime) and people watch. Wander with the flow along the main drag, Via Fillungo, and you can show the children the stunning gold leaf mosaics on the outside of the Romanesque Basilica of San Frediano (if kid-free, you should definitely explore the interior too) and the lovely elliptical Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, built, as the name suggests, on the foundations of the original Roman amphitheatre and now a venue for concerts throughout the summer. There’s even some decent retail therapy to be had on Fillungo. Dads can stock up on dapper shirts in Cerri, Mums on leathergoods in Pelletteria Allegrini Filippo and younger children on goodies in the Citta del Sole toy shop and art suppliers

Cartoleria Biagioni. Teens tend to gravitate to fashion, with George adding to his collection of Italian football shirts from the stall outside the amphitheatre and the twins, India and Siena, to their large portfolio of tiny miniskirts (cue my ‘are you sure that’s not a belt?’ comments).

Writing this, it has dawned on me that a day in Lucca might be the perfect example of what we call ‘stealth learning’, where children are picking up knowledge almost by osmosis at the same time as having enormous amounts of fun. There’s history and art at every turn in the city; music to young ears thanks to Puccini’s perfectly formed arias; religious studies in the form of Lucca’s glorious churches; biology galore in the botanical gardens and treelined walls; drama at Lucca’s film and theatre festivals; maths in every flea market haggle and, of course, speaking

Italian, that most lovely of languages. It would be a stretch to credit one city alone, but collective experiences and memories made in Lucca, Rome, Paris and Amsterdam have unquestionably made their mark on the children. It’s not a coincidence that for their A-Levels, the twins have chosen to do History of Art (both), French (both) and Italian (Siena, in a perfect example of nominative determinism). Quite simply, travel inspires in a way that the classroom often can’t. Whether the children listen or otherwise, I’m definitely taking some credit for that. •

'As you ride, watch the ever-elegant Lucchese (residents of Lucca) going about their business. Go round at least twice and you’ll often see the same super-stylish joggers, dog walkers, young lovers and old chaps playing dominoes on your circumnavigations.'

3 BEST REASONS TO GO

1

The Holy Trinity of fun foods: pizza, pasta and gelato

2

No one loves children like the Italians. Expect pinched cheeks

THE LITTLE LIBRARY

FOR CHILDREN:

3 Something for every age of children (and adults, for that matter)

NEED TO KNOW

1 The best time of year: spring for the cities, summer for the beaches and islands, and winter for the skiing

2 Get there: fly to any number of cities or, even better, take the train from London to Milan in a day

3 Budget: from £1,000 per person for a three-night family city break including flights, accommodation and guides

DON’T MISS GLADIATOR TRAINING, ROME

Experience Ancient Rome with a family guide, visiting the awe-inspiring Colosseum to learn about grisly gladiator fights. The children can then try their hands at the real thing (well, with wooden swords) at gladiator school up the (Roman) road.

MADELINE AND THE CATS OF ROME by John Bemelmans Marciano Madeline swaps the boulevards of Paris for the streets and sights of Rome. But when something is stolen, she discovers more than she bargained for – including many cats.

FOR TEENS:

THE THIEF LORD by Cornelia Funke

Two orphaned brothers run away to Venice where they befriend a gang of street children and their mysterious leader, the ‘Thief Lord’. Think Lord of the Flies with time-bending magic and treasure.

FOR GROWN-UPS:

THE OTHER END OF THE LINE by Andrea Camilleri Linger in Sicily with Inspector Montalbano on a mystery that follows him around the fictional Sicilian town of Vigata. His food descriptions alone will have you salivating.

CONTACT ONE OF OUR ITALY SPECIALISTS ON +44 (0) 20 3911 0444

WHY US?

OUR CONSULTANTS

Our ongoing love affair with all things Italy means we spend a considerable amount of time there on research trips, straying ever further from the beaten path in the knowledge that pretty much everywhere in Italy works brilliantly for families.

OUR CONCIERGE

One of our eight (!) Italy Concierges, Federica is Venetian and a connoisseur of northern Italy. She will find you the perfect venue for a family feast away from the crowds in Venice, and help you explore the lifestyle of the Ligurian coast and Emilia-Romagna. As a mother herself, Federica knows what activities will appeal to young travellers – a real asset when you're visiting with children.

WORD SEARCH

If there’s one country your children will know a thing or two about, it’s Italy. Consider this word search a menu and bucket list of all the things to do and see on a family Italian adventure. Note that the 53 words are hidden horizontally, vertically and diagonally.

ALPS

AMALFI

ARRIVEDERCI

BAMBINO

BASILICA

BEACHES

BOLOGNESE

CAESAR

CANNOLI

CAPPUCINO

CENTURION

CIAO

COLOSSEUM

DOLOMITES

DUOMO

EMPEROR

EURO

FERRARI

FLORENCE

GELATO

GLADIATOR

GONDOLA

GRAZIE

HOLIDAY

ISLANDS

LASAGNE

LOMBARDY

LUCCA

MARGHERITA

MEDITERRANEAN

MICHELANGELO

MILAN

NAPLES

OLIVES

PANTHEON

PASTA

PISA

PIZZA

POMPEII

POPE

RENAISSANCE

RISOTTO

ROADTRIP

ROME

SICILY

SPAGHETTI

TIRAMISU

TRULLO

TUSCANY

VATICAN

VENICE

VESPA

VINEYARD

THAI BABY

Words and photos by Faustine Poidevin-Gros

As Faustine Poidevin-Gros proves on a trip to Thailand with her toddler, children are never too young to travel.

Iwould love to visit Thailand again, but to see it as if for the first time,’ sighs our travel consultant wistfully as she runs through the final details of our trip to Bangkok. Who wouldn’t want to fly to Asia as if it were for the very first time? To experience again, after just a few hours on a plane, that surprising change of scenery and thick, humid air laden with sweet scents. On landing in Bangkok and crossing the bustling arrivals hall, I feel quietly relieved despite the heavy eyes, buzzing ears and laden arms. Here, our European winter feels so far away. We have left everything behind: the seemingly never-ending January, the back-andforth trips to daycare in the rain and the desperate dodging of winter colds. to re-discover the Kingdom of Siam through the wonder-filled eyes of our baby.

We have fragrant garlands of phuang malai around our necks, and the air-conditioned car gradually fills with the signature scent of jasmine. Floral notes and a feeling of euphoria engulf our little family as our driver expertly weaves through the Bangkok traffic. Fog weighs down the sky, and to the east of the city, the sun barely pierces through. But amid the honking horns and sharp turns, colours explode, senses awaken, engines roar and Bangkok reveals itself. On my lap, 15-monthold Romy-Jane is already pointing at everything. ‘This?’ she asks, her voice tinged with curiosity. I imagine the upheaval of finding yourself suddenly propelled so far from familiar surroundings, yet nothing seems to faze her.

With an expert turn of the wheel, our driver leaves behind the pulsating arteries of the bustling metropolis and makes a beeline for our riverside hotel. More intimate than most prestigious hotels in Bangkok, The Siam welcomes us with a gentle and warm embrace. Clad in an elegant sarong, Pong, our butler, awaits. While we admire old posters, gramophones and antique furniture, Romy-Jane is already joyfully splashing in one of the cool water basins, playing with bobbing lotus flowers. We’d planned on restorative naps, sleep strategies and elaborate calculations to combat jet lag and reorganise her circadian rhythm, but the city’s vitality has woken us all up.

With barely enough time to change our clothes and splash cold water on our faces, we find ourselves on a teak wooden barge, gliding along the Chao Phraya, the so-called ‘River of Kings’. Accompanied by our rendition of ‘row, row, row your boat’, we soon find ourselves docked at the foot of Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, which rises towards the sky with its golden spires and shimmering mosaics. In the humid heat of the late afternoon, we stroll leisurely through the temple’s maze of structures and shrines. Every corner reveals intricate displays of fabulously ornate floral mosaics and views over the Chao Phraya and Wat Pho. The sun is setting, the last rays of the day illuminating the golden roofs. The outlines of the temple stand out against the fiery sky, creating a majestic, serene and imposing silhouette. Monks dressed in vivid

‘As our driver expertly weaves through the Bangkok traffic we have fragrant garlands of ‘phuang malai’ around our necks, and the air-conditioned car gradually fills with the signature scent of jasmine. Floral notes and a feeling of euphoria engulf our little family.’

orange robes silently glide through the shaded courtyards. It strikes me that we’re the only tourists left. We leave our stroller and flip-flops at the entrance of the temple. Reclining majestically, an immense gold leaf-engulfed Buddha appears. His stature, at 150ft long and 49ft high, is strangely reassuring. For a few seconds, time stands still until Romy-Jane pulls us out of our contemplation: a small Siamese cat a few feet away has eclipsed the Buddha.

Back on the street, the bustle surprises us. Sitting bolt upright in her stroller, Romy-Jane hasn’t complained once. We decide to make the most of it. By early evening, the narrow streets of the flower market overflow with colourful stalls of tropical flowers, enchanting spices, spicy broths, steaming dishes and enticing aromas. We weave between stands and crowds, using flashing neon signs in the distance to guide us out of the hubbub. Before pausing to snap a few shots, I notice RomyJane slumped in her stroller, fast asleep.

A few days later, we reluctantly pack our bags to leave the whirlwind of Bangkok, The Siam, Pong and our ‘Like a Friend’ guide, a Bangkok local who is teacher by day (rather than a professional guide) and who had provided fascinating insights into the city and Thai culture. Any initial apprehension about exploring such a dense city with a baby has long gone. There

is so much to see and do; the distractions are countless and the Thais are endlessly kind and patient. Already, I can imagine ourselves – baby in tow – traversing the likes of Tokyo, Hong Kong and New York, decidedly urban and absolutely unfazed.

My musings are interrupted by the call of the beach. As our longtail boat gently navigates the smooth waters of Phang Nga Bay, our sleeping baby in my husband’s arms, we catch each other’s eye and smile. No words are needed to express our shared contentment. In a matter of minutes, our winter skin reddens under the sun, and our eyes, heavy from too many short nights, grow misty. Since having a child, we’ve relearned to live in the moment: to marvel at the whooping of a bird, to wonder at mother nature’s artistic ability on flower petals and snail trails shimmering on hot tarmac. As we watch the sun sparkle on the translucent water, we reconnect with our innocent, pure, childlike souls that were lost somewhere along the way. It’s been a long time since we travelled with such mindfulness.

In the heart of the bay, Romy-Jane awakens. ‘Pouf’, she exclaims suddenly, pointing at the majestic karst peaks emerging on the horizon. The limestone cliffs of Koh Yao Noi climb towards the sky, dripping with tropical vegetation and hiding millennia-old and mystery-filled caves. As we

approach, the waters turn a deeper blue and reveal vibrant coral reefs. We set our bare feet on the warm, glistening sand and let the humid air envelop us.

Our days on the island are filled with sunrise meditation and sea swims, deep-tissue massages, pad thai, paddle board excursions, dazzling sunsets – and the odd mosquito bite. One morning we decide to entrust Romy-Jane to the care of the hotel’s devoted babysitter and embark on an island hopping adventure, discovering the islets of Koh Deng, Nok and Ko Samet. We find most beaches deserted and the water the perfect temperature. Our skipper for the day, a native to the bay, drops us on one such beach for a picnic where we devour green papaya salad in the shade of mangroves. Once back on Koh Yao Noi, and reunited with Romy-Jane, we decide to cross the island in a sidecar to the Sunset Bar. Accompanied by the rhythmic sounds of reggae, backpackers, travellers and locals gather under its makeshift stilted shelter for end-of-day cocktails.

The next morning, we head north for the last leg of our Thai journey: a few days in a private house perched in the jungle. A golf cart whisks us to our Eden which, behind its gate, reveals a small bamboo house complete with a thatched roof. Inside, the lighting is soft and muted. Curtains are made from light

‘Since having a child, we’ve relearned to live in the moment: to marvel at the whooping of a bird, to wonder at mother nature’s artistic ability on flower petals and snail trails shimmering on hot tarmac.’

linens, the furniture is stylish and rattan and beyond, just past the lofty French doors, an emerald pool glimmers.

We’re treated to one of Mother Nature’s and man’s grandest shows at dinner. Facing the bay, the karst peaks are tinged with golden hues, the sky turns purple and gradually the stars and dancing lights of bobbing fishing boats mingle on one huge nocturnal canvas. It’s once we’re back in our bamboo cottage, though, that the jungle comes alive. Animals race across the thatched roof to seek shelter from the tropical storm breaking out in the distance. Lightning illuminates our small room at regular intervals. Yet, snuggled under the mosquito net on the other side of the world, I’ve never felt so secure.

The last day dawns. Time has flown by and the long journey back home looms. Back in Bangkok for a brief layover, we raid the hotel souvenir shop and sink our teeth into the gourmet room service menu. The cheeseburger and fries plunge us back into civilisation. After a twelve-hour flight, Romy-Jane claps her hands as our suitcases spill onto the airport terminal’s conveyor belt. She deserves a round of applause herself – a natural born traveller. •

3 BEST REASONS TO GO

1

Sample some of Bangkok’s best bites on a tuk-tuk tour of the city’s street food stalls

2

Wow the 3Gs on an exhilarating nocturnal safari around Khao Sok National Park

THE LITTLE LIBRARY

FOR CHILDREN:

MELA AND THE ELEPHANT by Dow Phumiruk

3

Learn to make pad thai from scratch in a private cooking class

NEED TO KNOW

1 The best time of year: between November and April when humidity is low and temperatures hover between 25 to 32°C

2 Get there: fly direct from London to Bangkok and you’ll be there in 12 hours

3 Budget: from £2,950 per person for a two-week trip including flights, accommodation and activities

DON’T MISS AN ELEPHANT

ENCOUNTER

Elephants are considered sacred in Thailand and Chiang Mai’s Elephant Rescue Park looks after ellies rescued from circuses or the logging industry. Children will learn about the admirable work done by the team while they help feed the animals and even go for a swim with them.

Mela’s boat is swept downstream as she explores her local river. Nearby animals offer help in exchange for a reward, but it is an elephant who shows her that kindness is its own kind of reward.

FOR TEENS:

A WISH IN THE DARK by Christina Soontornvat

Set in a Thai-inspired fantasy world, this novel offers an Asian twist on Les Miserables , told from the perspective of a young boy on the run and a girl on a quest to find him.

FOR GROWN-UPS:

THE BEACH by Alex Garland

Richard ventures to Thailand in search of seclusion. He stumbles upon an isolated beach (the now-famous Hollywood hotspot Maya Bay) and discovers a new way of life. But his search for this earthly utopia leaves him wondering how long paradise can truly last.

CONTACT ONE OF OUR THAILAND SPECIALISTS

ON +44 (0) 20 3911 0444

WHY US?

OUR CONSULTANTS

With over two decades of experience between them, our team of Asia specialists are the perfect people to plan your epic family adventure across Thailand. Their familiarity with the area – thanks to regular research trips – means even the most remote regions and secluded beaches are within easy reach.

OUR CONCIERGE

To say that Nadine knows Thailand well is an understatement. Having lived and worked across the nation for 25 years, she’s just the person to introduce you to the country’s way of life, teach you a phrase or two, book a last-minute dinner reservation and find the best babysitter in Bangkok.

BABIES ON A PLANE

1 – A TAILOR-MADE TALE

The only thing worse than snakes on a plane would be an unhappy baby. So, leave the hard work of organising flights, hotel bookings and car rentals to us so you can focus on your travelling brood.

2 – STRESS-FREE SERVICES

Book with Original Travel and look forward to stress-free flying. You’ll be assisted at every stage with priority boarding and fast-track services. Once you land, a friendly face will be there to greet you, help with your luggage and even organise an electric cart to take you from the gate to passport control. The only problem? After travelling this way, you won’t want to travel in any other.

3 – HANDY LUGGAGE

Pack your hand luggage wisely. We recommend the following: nappies, wet wipes, a change of clothes (including a t-shirt for you), nappy sacks, muslins, sterilised bottles, formula, Calpol sachets, bottles of water, a sling/BabyBjörn so you have your hands free for passports and tickets and, finally, distractions galore.

4 – NAPPY ENDINGS

Try to do a nappy change just before boarding to reduce the number you have to do on the plane.

5 – SLEEP SCHEDULE

Choose a night flight to optimise sleep times. Otherwise, rely on naps, even if it means adjusting the schedule a few days before.

6 – TALKING IT THROUGH

Let your little ones in on the action, describing your travel plans and reading them stories about their impending flight (we love the Little World series).

7 - TAKE TURNS

Take turns walking or carrying them around the plane. Think of it as an opportunity to bond with other parents and crew members and have a nose at other passengers’ choice of in-flight film.

8 – EARS NOT TEARS

Babies find it tricky to pop their ears on take-off and landing, so try to time a feed to coincide; it takes their mind off the pain and gets their jaws working to pop their ears. Should all else fail, ask the flight crew for two plastic cups. Put warm, wet tissues in each before cupping them over your baby’s ears. The heat from the tissue creates a small pressure vacuum that should unblock their ears. Oddly effective.

9 - KEEPING THINGS IN PERSPECTIVE

Ignore the few annoyed looks. You’ll encounter more kindness and solidarity than you might imagine. And after all, it’s only eight, ten, or at most 13 hours of your life. Nothing you can’t handle.

CHILDREN OF ALL AGES

Just because we grow up and have children of our own, doesn’t mean we suddenly stop being children ourselves. At Original Travel, we’re seeing a big rise in bonding holidays where a grandparent and one of their grown-up children go on holiday together. It can be a very special way to rekindle a bond, make up for lost time or say things that should have been said years beforehand. (Or, in some cases, apologise for those that were!) Our Co-founder Tom Barber has taken both his parents away in the past couple of years; his father to Uzbekistan to celebrate his 80 th, and his mother on a Nile cruise in Egypt aboard the Steam Ship Sudan . ‘Both trips were wonderful’, says Tom. ‘Meaningful, magical and truly memorable. I can't recommend this type of travel more, and it was a wonderful way to thank them both for all their support over the years.’

© Harry Boeki

By using Carbon Balanced Paper for this magazine Original Travel has balanced the equivalent of 2,085kgs of carbon dioxide. This support will enable World Land Trust to protect 398 square meters of critically threatened tropical forest. Certificate number CBP026106.

Photo Credits: Stevie Jean, Chloé Simon, Faustine Poidevin-Gros (p. 22) ; Nina Davidson, Jess Vide/Pexels, Chloé Simon (p. 23) ; Nevena Lukic, Scarabeo Camp, Paola + Murray / Gallery Stock (p. 32) ; Pie Aerts, Coke Bartrina, Pie Aerts, Coke Bartrina (p. 41) ; San Camp, Great Plains Duba Explorers Camp, Great Plains Duba Explorers Camp (p. 44) ; Girl with red hat/Unsplash, Shaun Egan / Getty Images, Salva Lopez (p. 60) ; Giuseppe Mondi/Unsplash, Rhiannon Taylor, Castello di Vicarello (p. 70) ; Peter Nitsch, Faustine Poidevin-Gros, Peter Nitsch (p. 82).