VOLUME 47 | ISSUE 4 | DECEMBER 2014
THE PHILANTHROPY ISSUE
MASTHEAD
2
Hermina Sobhraj Editor–in–Chief Dianna Mazzone Deputy Editor Molly Clarke Executive Editor Dara Kenigsberg Allison Moran Senior Editors Aaron Valentic Culture Editor
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Dara Kenigsberg Managing Editor Dana Heyward Treasurer Ana Knapp Community Manager
ART Kelly Millington Art Director Jessica Henry Emma Wood Junior Designers Vicky Mathew Photographer
CONTRIBUTORS Loren Adiutori Maria Beneventano Rachel Basel Erik DeFruscio Kaylee Denmead Sarah Fielding Justine Gray Ashley Grubb Dana Heyward Allison Moran Tara O’Brien Shyam Patel Aaron Valentic Karen Wu Michael Yavid Natasha Hogg Nicole Goldhamer
Every December, it’s a common tradition to establish New Year’s resolutions. But as the New Year and holiday season creep up, instead of looking forward, I tend to reflect on the past 11 months of the year. What did I achieve? What good did I accomplish? It only seemed fitting that this issue had to be themed Philanthropy. As our finals and group projects, our last minute gift shopping, all distract us, I ask you to set some time aside to reflect with W27. Flip to page 6 to read about Deborah Payton Jones, our director of Student Volunteer Community Services. On page 10, you’ll discover YouTube personalities who used their accounts to raise over $1 million for charities. Bill and Melinda Gates and Mark Zuckerberg, who collectively raised over $75 million during the Ebola crisis, are featured on page 12. The holidays always inspire us to give, but why not remember the entire year for it? Why not use our reflection on the past year as a benchmark for next year’s accomplishments?
Until February,
John Simone Editorial Faculty Advisor
A FIT STUDENT ASSOCIATION PUBLICATION
ON THE COVER: W27 IS PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER. PLEASE RECYCLE YOUR COPY AFTER READING.
Nicole Zimmermann, photographed by Vicky Mathew, poses against the sunset in holiday fashion provided by FIT’s very own Style Shop.
FIT
3
W27
DECEMBER 2014
CONTENTS ON THE BLOCK 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7
Season’s Greet-Inks: Holiday Pop Up Shop @ FIT MODA x Nutella: A Sweet Combination Kimora Lee Simmons Runway 27 Brings Villains to Campus Humans of FIT SVCS Beauty Buzz Farewell to Dianne Mazzone
DEAR INDUSTRY 8 8 9 10 11
The Fondation Keep a Child Alive Foundation A Promised Gift YouTubers Raising Money For Charity Fashion Fights Back
LETTER FROM THE ART DIRECTOR
FEATURE 12 13 14 15 16
Tech-Innovators Dig Deep to Fight Ebola Burberry’s Holiday Magic A Magazine With a Conscience One Student Fights to Ban Fur Style Shop Editorial
HAUTE CULTURE 18 19 19 20 20 21
Joan Didion, Captured On Film The Fashion Students Netflix Film Review: “Whiplash” Gallery Review: Death Becomes Her Glittering World: Navajo Jewlery Editors’ Picks
FIT SPEAKS 22 22 23 23 24
Slice Of Holiday Spirit With a Slice of Consumerism Month in Review: Protests Break Out Obama’s Executive Action Accusations About Bill Cosby Surfaced Style on 27
I COULDN’T THINK OF A BETTER WORD TO DESCRIBE THE HOLIDAY SEASON THAN PHILANTHROPY. DURING THIS TIME OF YEAR WE CELEBRATE THE THINGS WE ARE THANKFUL FOR, INCLUDING OUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY WHO ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT IN OUR LIVES. WE GIVE BACK TO OUR COMMUNITY, HELP OUT A LITTLE MORE AROUND THE HOUSE - JUST TO SHOW OUR APPRECIATION FOR OTHERS AROUND US AND THE LITTLE THINGS THEY DO. NEW YORK CITY IS ONE OF THE BEST PLACES TO BE DURING THE HOLIDAY SEASON. NOT ONLY DO
WE HAVE SNOW, BUT WE HAVE ROCKEFELLER CENTER, CENTRAL PARK, BRYANT PARK - NOT TO MENTION THAT THEY ALL HAVE ICE-SKATING RINKS. NYC IS ALSO KNOWN FOR THE BEST SHOPPING IN THE WORLD. WALKING DOWN FIFTH AVENUE TO STOP AND ADMIRE THE BEAUTIFUL WINDOWS IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS TO DO. WE’RE SO LUCKY TO HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO LIVE IN A CITY THAT HAS SO MUCH HOLIDAY SPIRIT NO MATTER WHERE WE ARE IN THE CITY. THIS ISSUE FOCUSES ON THE HOLIDAYS AND THE SPIRIT WE ALL HAVE AS WE ENTER THE WINTER SEASON. I HOPE READERS WILL BE INSPIRED FOR GIFT IDEAS AND REFLECT ON THEIR LIVES TO THINK ABOUT WHAT THEY’RE THANKFUL FOR. HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
ON THE BLOCK Season’s Greet-Inks: Holiday Pop Up Shop @ FIT by Tara O’Brien
It’s that time of year again. Salvation Army bells ring, street lights twinkle, gawking tourists crowd the sidewalks and store windows are decked out in holiday cheer. Even 27th Street is participating in this year’s festivities. Fashion Institute of Technology students in the Visual Production and Exhibition Design program will be partnering with The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center’s high-end thrift shop, The Society Boutique, to host the second annual pop-up shop in the Pomerantz Art and Design Center. Open Wednesday, December 10 through Saturday, December 13, the store will feature designer and vintage clothing, shoes, handbags, jewelry and other gift items from The Society Boutique. Chloe, Christian Lacroix, Jimmy Choo, Marc Jacobs, Valentino and Louis Vuitton are just some of the designers whose products will be sold during this event. Last year, The Society Boutique made its debut at FIT with Holiday Bazaar, pulling inspiration from Surrealist and Dada art movements. The shop was such a big success that the Cancer Center could not wait to collaborate with FIT students again. This year’s pop-up shop
is titled Season’s Greet-Inks, named after the old-school tattoo design inspiration. Every aspect of the pop-up shop is designed by FIT students from the vintage tattoo décor to the music and the temporary tattoos available. Even the innovative hang tags and shopping bags were designed by the students. 100% of the proceeds will go to The Society Boutique which supports The Society of MSK’s important patient care, education and research programs at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. The proceeds will also help the institution stay at the forefront of research so more people can have an earlier diagnosis and have a better
RALPH LAUREN SHOES, $95
KARA ROSS CLUTCH, $95
chance of surviving this deadly disease. Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center was founded in 1884 as New York Cancer Hospital on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. In 1936, John D. Rockefeller donated land on York Avenue, where the hospital is now currently located. The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center was founded in 1946 and is a completely volunteer run organization. Over the decades, it has become a model for other volunteer organizations and its 21 working committees have touched the lives of patients and their families all over the world. The pop-up shop offers the public, students and faculty an opportunity to help others and ease their suffering. There is
no better reason to brace the chilly winter air and shop for the upcoming holiday season. Reward yourself with a Jimmy Choo bag for surviving finals or take a break from cramming and purchase a pair of YSL flats. A vintage and designer inventory awaits you at this year’s Season’s Greet-Inks pop-up shop. If you make a dent in your wallet, or even a gaping hole, leave with your head held high, knowing you made a difference.
ST. JOHN DRESS, $225
Photos courtesy of The Society Boutique
MODA x Nutella: A Sweet Combination by Nicole Goldhamer
On Friday, November 21 and Saturday, November 22, MODA Espresso & Wine Bar, in conjunction with Professor Loretta Volpe’s Special Events Marketing class, hosted an event to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Nutella. MODA honored everyone’s favorite hazelnut spread by creating a timeline of Nutella, displaying iconic images of its many iterations throughout the years and of course, providing a taste of the Italian treat itself. Students, friends and family all came out to enjoy complimentary Nutella espresso, which is not only a regular favorite at MODA, but proved to be a major hit with new guests. Complimentary Nutella-inspired finger food - which drew rave reviews - was also available.
Nutella cupcakes. A drawing was conducted midway through the event, where attendees hoped to win prizes including gift baskets and certificates. The event continued the following morning which made it a perfect time for guests to enjoy a breakfast spread of espresso with some Nutella-inspired brunch favorites. MODA provided Nutella croissants, Nutella pancakes and Nutella biscuits, all free of charge. The Nutella
Photo courtesy of ijustwanttoeat.com
to Stanton Social, a restaurant in the Lower East Side, a holiday gift bag and a designer purse.
“ATTENDEES ALSO HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO HAVE CARICATURES DRAWN OF THEMSELVES”
Friday evening’s event had a turnout of over 100 people, all of whom gathered to get a taste of what MODA had to offer. With live entertainment playing in the background, MODA served Nutella berry bruschetta, Nutella pizza and mini
espresso was a big hit. Attendees also had the opportunity to have caricatures drawn of themselves, courtesy of two Fashion Institute of Technology illustration students. A raffle took place around noon and a number of lucky recipients walked away with amazing prizes, including a gift card
Not only did the FIT and Chelsea communities love the event, but it seemed that the staff at MODA enjoyed the twoday celebration, as well. Renato Besabe, co-owner of MODA said, “The event was a great success. We’re glad people got a chance to experience the vibe at MODA while enjoying our special Nutella menu and our unique Nutella espresso.”
5
W27
DECEMBER 2014
Kimora Lee Simmons: Mom, Model, Mogul and FIT Benefactor by Justine Gray
The Fashion Institute of Technology is lucky to have a supportive community of established industry experts that contribute to the academic experiences of its students. Most recently, designer, entrepreneur and philanthropist Kimora Lee Simmons has underwritten a generous scholarship fund for FIT students across various disciplines. Announced at a press conference held at FIT on October 21, 2014, the $500,000 scholarship fund will benefit eighty-five students over the next five years. The fund is designed to provide opportunity and resources for first year students in underrepresented populations. “I couldn’t be more thrilled and honored to be partnering with FIT to enable students to pursue their unique paths,” Simmons announced at the press conference. Simmons shared how her career developed, beginning with modeling at the age of thirteen; she said, “It was Karl Lagerfeld that discovered me and gave me
that chance, which has evolved over the years into design and being an entrepreneur.” Her work as a designer includes the Baby Phat label launched in 1999 and more recently, the position of President and Creative Director at the affordable shoe company, JustFab, in 2011. Growing up in St. Louis, Missouri, Simmons reflected that “the fashion industry always seemed so far away.” Empathizing with the aspirations of students, she said, “today I am so proud to be able to create a new opportunity for more future talents to help them blaze their own bold path.” Throughout her announcement, she recognized the hard work and capabilities of young people pursuing a career in fashion and the related industries, reminding them that they are already “fabulous.” With two reality shows, “Kimora: Life in the Fab Lane” and “Kimora: House of Fab,” and as the author of a self-help
book, “Fabulosity: What It Is & How to Get It,” Simmons is, as stated by Forbes Magazine, one of the “hardest working mothers in Hollywood.” Her most recent endeavor is the KLS Collection, a highend womenswear brand launching by the end of this year. The scholarship will also include an internship opportunity with the KLS Collection.
dedication to higher education will certainly make an impact on the aspiring talents of FIT. She expressed confidence in the ambitions of FIT students and closed her announcement with “I am so proud of you guys and I’ll see you at the top,” inviting the next generation of leaders to reach the level of her own success.
An additional $500,000 in scholarship funds will be implemented at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in California, as well as at Rush Philanthropic Arts Foundation, an organization focused on exposing New York City youth to the arts, which was founded by her ex-husband, Russell Simmons. “I know for many kids that they dream of coming to New York or Los Angeles or Paris to start their career,” Simmons shared at the press conference, “and it’s something that I think about with my own children as well, how to get started and how I can help.” Simmons’s
Photo courtesy of justfab.com.
Runway 27 Brings Villains to Campus by Maria Beneventano
Villains took control at the semi-annual fashion show hosted by the Fashion Institute of Technology’s Runway 27 club. The show, titled Fashion is Evil, took place on November 20 in the Haft Auditorium, where students, faculty and family members were able to face their inner-child’s worst fears as models took the runway reproducing some of history’s most notorious movie villains. Spearheaded by Libby Merritt and Dyon Tranh, president and vice president of Runway 27, respectively, Fashion is Evil featured student made and high end designer garments, including Nicole Miller and Manolo Blahnik.
Little Mermaid,” the Joker and Catwoman from “Batman,” Hades from “Hercules,” Jafar from “Aladdin,” Poison Ivy from “Batman & Robin” and last but not least, Cruella de Vil from “101 Dalmatians.” A bevy of models trailed each of the villains as they sauntered down the catwalk, and together they presented a collection centered on each individual theme. Sea witch Ursula opened the show in a black and purple leather dress, topped off with her blonde voluminous hair. The Joker’s untamed green hair made him easy to spot next. Next up, the models for Catwoman’s segment sported edgy, fierce and dark-colored clothing.
Following was Hades with his flaming blue hair, wearing a sheer, black top along with a long, black vest. His second look was comprised of a sheer black jacket that had reflective blue detailing on the sleeves to match his distinct shade of hair. The female model that immediately followed Hades’s entrance wore a top made of two flame-blue shells, as well as an ankle-length skirt that incorporated blue detailing along the pleats. Fitting to his character, Jafar made a bold entrance as he walked under the red sky backdrop that lit up the runway, along with his hair piled high on his head to symbolize Jafar’s legendary headpiece. The next villain was Poison Ivy. Set against a backdrop of leaf-like designs, her long red hair provided a stark contrast to the green jumpsuit Illustration by Jessica Blicksilver she wore, much like her character in
The seven villains that were represented at the show included Ursula from “The
“Batman & Robin.” Last to hit the runway, the iconic character Cruella de Vil was just as stunning in the show as she was in the movie. Defined by her black and white hairstyle, red accents and black and white fur coats, the model left little doubt what villain she represented. The models that followed Cruella De Vil all had the black, red and white color combination worked into their look, each one matching the persona that this legendary character embodies. Alongside the executive board, Runway 27’s committees are what made this show possible. One of these committees is Merchandising and Styling. Members of this group work together to solicit vendors, keep track of all of the looks for the show and ensure that all models are lined up in the correct order on the day of the show. The clothing that is worn by the models are student made and also obtained from outside companies. A few of the many companies who sponsored Runway 27’s fashion show included Levi’s, Sam Edelman and Manolo Blahnik, as mentioned previously. Several students were able to acquire products needed for the show through companies that they interned for, as well as through other contacts that they may have networked with throughout the fashion industry. Another committee is Production and Model Coordination. They cast the models, coordinate timing and prepare special effects and props. Runway 27
Photo courtesy of Maria Beneventano
collaborated with FITSMA (Models and Styling Association), which was one source for casting models for the event. However, not all models that walked in the show were FIT students. Some of the men and women were from outside organizations that Runway 27 came into contact with through word of mouth or through social media. Runway 27 also collaborated with Carsten Institute of Cosmetology, which provided professional hair and makeup artists. Overall, the student-run show proved well organized and well run, presenting the fashion show as a must-see professional event.
ON THE BLOCK
FIT
6
Humans of FIT by Tara O’Brien
HUMANS OF NEW YORK (HONY) IS A RENOWONED PHOTOGRAPHY BLOG CREATED BY BRANDON STANTON. HE DOCUMENTS HIS SUBJECTS IN A COMPLETELY TRANSPARENT LIGHT AND INSPIRED US TO DO THE SAME WITH HUMANS OF FIT.
“THE RENT TRIPLED AND MY FAMILY AND I ALL HAD TO LEAVE.”
Alexus Illustration Major What’s one thing in the world you wish you could change? I wish people had an open mind about things. Talk to a person and try to hear them out before you shun or reject them. I’ve noticed that with people who I think are annoying or whatever, once I actually talk to them I can see the method to their madness about why they think a certain way. Even though I may not agree, it makes me have a newfound respect for them.
Stephanie Communication Design Foundation Major What’s something you’re grateful for? That I have a place to live with the person that I love. Was there ever a time you were afraid of losing that which you are grateful for?
Have you ever found yourself faced with close-minded people?
I lived on Roosevelt Island for a while; that’s where I grew up. They had subsidized housing that ended up being privatized while I was in college for the first time around. The rent tripled and my family and I all had to leave. I wasn’t sure where I was going to go...it was near the middle of the semester and I knew my part-time job wasn’t going to sustain me. That was pretty stressful.
Yes. In high school, there was this kid and he didn’t really like the fact that I was gay but as he got to know me and I was friends with his friends, he was like, ‘You know Alexus, you’re alright. I don’t care that you’re like this.’ He changed and I really appreciate that. He got to know me and realized that I’m actually a good person despite his beliefs.
“TALK TO A PERSON AND TRY TO HEAR THEM OUT BEFORE YOU SHUN OR REJECT THEM.”
What’s one thing in the world you wish you could change? I think there’s a lot of bogus systems in place right now with internships and people working for nothing or almost nothing, and it’s really stressful because New York is so expensive. I feel like that’s a system that needs to be rectified. Entry level jobs shouldn’t be working for free, basically.
SVCS Sparks Toy, Food and Book Drive on Campus by Allison Moran
Now is the season for giving, and the students of the Fashion Institute of Technology are doing just that. FIT’s Student Volunteer Community Services (SVCS) program organized a food and toy drive that ran from October 1 to November 21, along with an on-going book drive. Deborah Payton-Jones, the director of Student Volunteer Community Services, provided W27 with some insight on these drives on campus. Both the toy and food drives provided goods to The Partnership for the Homeless, a New York based organization that aims to assist those who are homeless, at-risk for homelessness and leaving homeless shelters for nearly 30 years now. Some of the items donated to the toy drive included a variety of stuffed animals and plenty of Barbie dolls. The food drive pulled in donations of canned and jarred foods. To promote the food drive and to unite clubs and organizations with SVCS on campus, many groups asked for cans of food for admittance to club events. Although the toy and food drives have already concluded, The Partnership for the Homeless is always accepting monetary donations via their website at partnershipforthehomeless.org. Also, their
“THE AIM OF THE BOOK DRIVE IS TO ALLOW STUDENTS TO DONATE BOOKS FROM SEMESTERS-PAST” website lists a selection of events that they need volunteers for, as well as a volunteer updates e-mailing list. This year, Payton-Jones decided to start an on-going book drive in addition to the food and toy drives. As opposed to only collecting goods during the Holiday season, the aim of extending the book drive until the end of the school year is to allow students to donate unwanted textbooks from semesters-past. No need to wait until May to clear off your bookshelf, bring your books from the first semester of this school year, along with some of your childhood favorites, to the boxes outside of room A718 in The Department of Student Life office (A713) to donate them. The capstone to this holiday season of giving was the 2014 Holiday Bazaar, held in the John E. Reeves Great Hall on December 1. This event brought together
multiple clubs and organizations from FIT as well as vendors that are usually found at the Thursday flea markets on the Breezeway. At the event, entertainment was provided by a DJ, as well as FIT’s Gospel Choir. Knitting instructors taught event attendees how to knit, which allowed anyone who participated to knit scarves and the like to donate to the Partnership for the Homeless. Not only were those who attended the event able to help out the local homeless community, but they were also able to get some holiday shopping done with all of the vendors at the event. While December may be the month that most associate with giving and being generous, FIT students and faculty alike know how to make philanthropy and giving a year-round focus. With a successful food, toy and book drive this holiday season, FIT can and will continue to make a difference in this community.
7
W27
Beauty Buzz:
DECEMBER 2014
Gifts That Give - Beauty Edition by Dianna Mazzone
photo courtesy of lush
There’s something about gift-giving that leaves us (and hopefully the recipient, too!) feeling all warm and fuzzy inside. So imagine what would happen if those good vibes could be multiplied. Consider these five products’ case in point. We rounded up beauty gifts that give back to charitable organizations—talk about the ultimate win-win! Lush New Charity Pot Body Lotion, $25.95, available at Lush. From its eco-initiatives to its goodenough-to-eat ingredients, there’s a whole lot to love about Lush. That said, the brand’s reformulated Charity Pot deserves a spot at the top of the list. 100% of the proceeds from the product go to grassroots organizations committed to causes like environmental conservation, animal welfare and human rights. The revamped version of the brand’s iconic body lotion also boasts a self-preserving formula that
photo courtesy of mac
photo courtesy of beauty.com
prolongs its shelf life. If you ask us, that’s all the more reason to stock up this holiday season. MAC Viva Glamorous Lip Palette, $40, available at MAC. Run, don’t walk, to your nearest MAC counter. Here’s why—for the first time ever, the beauty mega-brand is offering six iconic Viva Glam shades in one practically perfect lip palette. From rich reds to subdued shades of beige, the palette represents the success seen by MAC’s twentyyear Viva Glam campaign, which provides support to those living with HIV/AIDS. Countless celebrities have lent their name to a Viva Glam lipstick and to date, over $250 million has been raised. Pacifica Island Vanilla Spray Perfume, $22, available at Beauty.com.
photo courtesy of Kiehl’s
Here’s to a brand that gives back to its source of inspiration. Pacifica donates a portion of proceeds from all of its Island Vanilla-scented products to the Ocean Futures Society, a non-profit marine conservation organization. We’re partial to Pacifica’s Island Vanilla perfume, formulated with natural, pure-grain alcohol and infused with vanilla absolute essential oil. This sweet–but-sultry scent also features notes of honey-jasmine and tea. Kiehl’s Greatest Hits Collection, $45, available at Nordstrom. Kiehl’s is one of those rare brands that appeals to everyone from your boss to your BFF. So, we wouldn’t blame you if you picked up its Greatest Hits Collection for just about everyone on your list. To further sweeten the pot, Kiehl’s has partnered with the Norman Rockwell Estate to donate 100% of the profits from its
photo courtesy of The Body Shop
holiday collection (the packaging of which features the iconic illustrator’s designs), up to $100,000, to Feeding America. The organization supports hungry families throughout the nation, and thanks to Kiehl’s, will feed 1 million meals to those in need this holiday season. The Body Shop Dragon Fruit Lip Butter, $6, available at The Body Shop. Who knew one little lip balm could do so much good? The Body Shop’s Dragon Fruit Lip Butter may be small, but its seriously mighty. The purchase price of one balm goes toward funding three different charitable organizations. A consumer vote determined that anti-bullying group WeStopHate, animal rights advocates Big Cat Rescue and Sprout Up, an environmental education organization, would each benefit from proceeds. Long story short, this is not your average stocking stuffer.
Farewell to Dianna Mazzone by Aaron Valentic
FIT’s Admitted Students Day, where she was determined to be a part of the staff. “I made it one of my little missions,” confesses Mazzone, a soon-to-be graduate of FIT. Once the fall semester of 2011 had commenced, Mazzone was placed in charge of the column Welcome To The Boardroom, which followed the goings-on with the President and other members of the FIT Student Association. For this, she reported on all of the new and exciting news coming out of the Student Association.
It isn’t very often at W27 that we have a writer who is deeply involved within the entire process of arranging a newspaper - from the very first step to the very last. The countless hours of editing, writing and placing all of the different pieces of the newspaper together is a daunting task. Someone as talented as Dianna Mazzone makes it all look so effortless. Mazzone first got her start at W27 when she glanced at a copy of the newspaper at
Becoming a writer for any publication requires much attention to detail when writing articles and proofreading. For Mazzone, it was a bit intimidating: “When I first started, I didn’t have a ton of writing experience. I was only on my high school’s newspaper…but W27 was really accepting of me and taught me a lot about writing,” she explained. It wasn’t until an opportunity came about with her own column when Mazzone really began to find her true passion: makeup. As she recalls, “This was my first foray into beauty writing.” From that initial beauty column featured
within the pages of W27, Mazzone was soon swept up into the world of fashion, participating in internships for companies like Chanel, Elle and Vogue, with a current internship at Marie Claire in the Beauty Department.
“SOMEONE AS TALENTED AS DIANNA MAZZONE MAKES IT ALL LOOK SO EFFORTLESS.” Even with company names like those placed on her resume, it still wasn’t enough for the enthusiastic AMC student. In the fall of 2013, Mazzone launched Blush Magazine, the first ever fashion and beauty magazine to be published at FIT, a dream come true for the aspiring editor. Good luck Dianna, from the whole W27 family.
DEAR INDUSTRY The Fondation Louis Vuitton by Michael Yavid
To most people, giving back means donating an extra dollar at the cash register, or dropping a few coins into a jar to help children in need. When dealing with billion dollar corporations, giving back takes on an entirely different meaning. Instead of an extra dollar, that sum accumulates to millions of dollars, and the end results are often extraordinary. To give back to its city, the billion dollar corporation LVMH, has donated a public cultural center to the people of Paris.
displayed. Art is not the only thing to can be found in the center; the building showcases a performance hall with 1000 seats. Inaugurated performers already include German electronic band Kraftwerk, and concert pianist Lang Lang. The Fondation is located within Bois de Boulougne, a park in the western corner of Paris. A 10 minute drive from the Eiffel Tower, visitors will find the museum easily accessible by metro, bus, bicycle or even by a Fondation shuttle. The center was strategically placed in a public park in order to sidestep usual building and city zoning rules. In order to do so, LVMH has agreed to revert the museum back to the city of Paris after 55 years.
The Fondation Louis Vuitton is France’s first privately funded major cultural center. Most opera houses or museums located in France are considered the domain of the Photo courtesy of fondationlouisvuitton.fr. French government, further Designed by setting The Fondation apart. renowned This 41,441 square foot space will be “starchitect” Frank Gehry, The Fondation home to LVMH’s public and private art is yet another architectural triumph collections. Along side permanent exhibunder his belt. Having already created its, temporary exhibitions will also be some of contemporary architecture’s
“BRANDS, ESPECIALLY ONES IN HIGH FASHION, ARE TRYING TO DISTANCE THEMSELVES FROM THEIR EGOCENTRIC IMAGES BY PROVIDING FOR THE PUBLIC.”
finest works such as the Guggenheim Museum in Spain and the Walt Disney Concert Hall, Gehry was the perfect person to take on the project. Commissioned by Bernard Arnault, CEO of France’s multinational luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, and funded by the company, Gehry had creative freedom of designing with no financial limitations. The total cost of the center was approximately $130 million, a seemingly large number, but insignificant compared to the net worth of LVMH, which is valued at around $40 billion.
When asked about the museum, Arnault explained that donating the building is a way to give back. He went on to say, “It’s showing that we are very good citizens and that we are working not only for profit, but also for ‘something that is transcendent.’ This follows suit with other fashion houses recently taking interest in supporting art and cultural landmarks
around the globe. Brands, especially ones in high fashion, are trying to distance themselves from their egocentric images by providing for the public. Jean-Paul Claverie, the man responsible for LVMH’s philanthropic duties, told the New York Times that the center is focused on creating emotional returns instead of economic ones. LVMH hopes that the general public agrees, and eventually accepts The Fondation as a public landmark as well as an international attraction for tourists around the globe. With heavy amounts of tourist traffic annually swarming Paris, The Fondation should have no problem becoming that exact destination.
Keep a Child Alive Foundation by Erik DeFruscio
After 11 years of raising money to fight HIV and AIDS in Kenya, Rwanda, South Africa, Uganda and India, recording artist Alicia Keys and long-time activist Leigh Blake have impacted the lives of over 300,000 people and raised over $20 million. Keep a Child Alive (KCA) was founded by Leigh Blake and Alicia Keys in 2003. It started when they promised to help a mother in Kenya, who couldn’t afford medicine for her son. The foundation has since grown and now has HIV services in five countries. “With attentive, coordinated, dignified care, including life-saving treatment, psychosocial support and nutritious food, children and families are living healthier... and communities are able to realize, once again, their full potential,” says a spokesperson for KCA.
which provides a comprehensive range of service and support to more than 11,000 people living with HIV is another example. There are seven programs in total that help fight, protect and treat children and families with HIV. KCA states that, “Treatment alone isn’t enough.” One of the largest events for the foundation is their annual Black Ball gala presented by Givenchy and the Jynwel Foundation. Alicia Keys hosted the event in New York City on October 30 and raised $2.3 million. It started out as the “Pusher’s Ball” in 2004 and was then established in London in 2008 as the Black Ball UK. The Black Ball has been held annually for 11 years and Black Ball
“THE FOUNDATION IS SEVEN PERCENT MANAGEMENT, NINE PERCENT FUNDRAISING AND 84 PERCENT PROGRAMS”
The foundation is seven percent management, nine percent fund-raising and 84 percent programs. WE-ACTx for HOPE, which serves approximately 2,400 clients with comprehensive HIV treatment, care and support, and The Blue Roof Wellness Centre, which provides “a beautiful setting in an otherwise desolate community for children and families to visit and access comprehensive HIV treatment and care,” according to KCA, are two of these programs. Alive Medical Services (AMS),
UK has been hosted three times in 2008, 2010 and 2011. In 2013, the gala raised a record breaking $4.1 million. For the 11 years the ball has been held, it has raised over $22.6 million. According to KCA financial statements,
between their contributions and special events, the foundation raised $5,895,430 in 2013. Major supporters of KCA include The Alicia Keys Family Foundation, Cartier Charitable Foundation, Philip & Lisa Falcone, Givenchy, Nickelodeon, Reebok, Starbucks, Tommy Hilfiger Corporate Foundation and many more. However, the foundation’s expenses, between fundraising costs and services amounted to just over $4,139,362, which left them with $3,377,144 in assets at the end of 2013 once added to the net assets at the end of 2012 ($1,621,076). These numbers show that each year on average, the foundation raised about $2.5 million to help families with HIV. At the 2014 Black Ball, Keys revealed that the charity’s next campaign, ‘Buy Life’ “will recruit stars such as Lady Gaga, Katie Holmes, Justin Timberlake and Kanye West to take part in an advertising campaign that will be featured in magazines, bus stops and the Internet,” according to Daily Mail UK In a video on the KCA website, Keys said, “For so many in the communities in which we work, ‘Will I eat today?’ is a
Photo courtesy of epacha.org.
question too often asked. We ensure all in our care have enough food providing essential nutrition; freeing resources to buy things like school books and helping people stay on their medications.” “More than 35 million people are living with HIV globally, including 3.3 million children. Despite years of progress— including 10 million people in low and middle-income countries now receiving antiretroviral therapy—worldwide access to quality HIV healthcare remains stunted, leaving vulnerable populations at an even higher risk,”explains KCA. Keys told Daily Mail UK,, “The whole idea is that if you’re spending $100 on a pair of shoes or everything else we spend money on that we don’t really need, why not use the money to save a life instead?”
9
W27
DECEMBER 2014
A Promised Gift: Cubist Art Worth $1 Billion Donated to the Met by Karen Wu
Through February 16, the Metropolitan Museum of Art will be showing Leonard A. Lauder’s Cubist Art collection. Valued at approximately $1 billion, it is one of the most important modern art collections of all time, with 78 paintings, collages, drawings and sculptures. Mr. Lauder is the heir to cosmetics giant Estee Lauder. After 40 years spent acquiring pieces, he completed his Cubist art collection. A great philanthropist, he then decided to donate this collection to the Met. It includes 17 Georges Braques, 33 Picassos, 14 Legers and 14 by Juan Gris.
photo courtesy of nytimes.com
“Whenever I’ve given something to a museum, I’ve wanted it to be transformative” said Mr. Lauder. The status of the collection has elevated the Met’s archives of early 20th century art to a whole new level. For the collection, Mr. Lauder’s focused on pieces made between 1909 and 1914, which was when the Cubist movement began to flourish. One of the first movements born during Modernism, it introduced the concept of abstract art. It was developed by Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque and challenged the traditional manners of representation, such as perspective, which had been the standard since the Renaissance. They wanted to showcase the idea of relativity in their art. Until that point art was drawn in perspective from a fixed viewpoint, but Cubist paintings simultaneously show many parts of a subject from different angles. “Back then, a lot [of art] was still available, because nobody really wanted it,” Mr. Lauder told the New York Times. With the help of Emily Braun, his curator for 26 years, they both built one of the greatest private collections on the globe with provocative and rare pieces like, “The Trees at L’Estaque” (Braque, 1908), and “Head of a Woman” (Picasso, 1909).
history. He also supported the Research Center for Modern Art at the Met by giving a $22 million endowment. The Lauder family has created a legacy in the New York City art world and is among its most influential supporters. His brother, Ronald S. Lauder, is also a collector in New York, having founded the Neue Galerie on the Upper East Side. His gallery is devoted to early 20th century German and Austrian art and design. Lauder explains that even though he completed the donation, he is not finished collecting. “I’ll continue to buy and add to the Met’s collection, but only if the right things come along.” photo courtesy of nytimes.com “There are so many firsts in this collection,” said Rebecca Rabinow, a curator in the Met Museum’s Modern and Contemporary art department. “We can tell so many different stories that we could never tell before.” This is not Mr. Lauder’s first donation. In 2008, he donated $131 million to the Whitney Museum of American Art, where he is now its Chairman Emeritus. That gift is the largest in the museum’s
photo courtesy of nydailynews.com
DEAR INDUSTRY
FIT
10
Youtubers Raising Money for Charity by Tara O’Brien
Today, people seem to care more about their follower counts than how many actual friends they have. They would rather tweet about what they had for breakfast before they watch the news – or so it seems. But, thanks to the power of the Internet, and the hugely popular website YouTube, people are giving back to charities that help all kinds of people. In fact, famous YouTubers are using their uber popularity to do some good in the world, inspiring their followers to support those in need.
lesbian, gay, transgender and questioning kids. Oakley asked his subscribers to grant his birthday wish and donate to this cause. He wanted to show his audience that it is not about how much you could give, but everyone working together to reach a goal. For Oakley, this goal was $24,000, though his followers graciously surpassed that goal and raised more than $28,000.
In March, Oakley had another birthday campaign for The Trevor Foundation and this time he harnessed the power of his millions of followers and raised $525,000; Many people know Tyler Oakley as a prohis original goal was only $150,000. “It’s fessional fanboy easy to get lost in whose bubbly the number of personality and subscribers and insane sense of views, but when humor cracks you hear from up the Internet a kid whose life one YouTube was saved by video after you mentionanother. What ing a suicide some people prevention and may not know is crisis lifeline, that he also feels you see the passionately people within photo courtesy of allwomenstalk.com those numbers,” about philanthropy. He sees the potenOakley said. tial in his followers to help a lot of people all over the world. For his 24th birthday, Oakley is not alone in his charitable Oakley made his most notable donation to efforts. The men of YouTube channel date to The Trevor Foundation. In 1998, “vlogbrothers,” Hank and John Green, the organization’s suicide prevention started a campaign called Project for Awesome in 2007. The nonprofit organization takes over YouTube for one day a year to raise money for worthy causes. The process starts with video creators all over the world making videos to promote their favorite charity. People donate money by buying “perks” or items to be given to the foundation. Then, the money that was raised gets split up between the top ten charities in the ten most watched videos at the end of the day.
photo courtesy of tyleroakley.com hotline was formed after the release of a film about a 13 year old boy named Trevor, whose experiences and rejection at home caused him to take his own life. The Trevor Foundation provides crisis intervention and suicide prevention to
Popular YouTubers participate in the event every year by not only making videos but appearing on the 24 hour livestream put on by John and Hank themselves, entertaining viewers and encouraging them to donate to the cause. Last year the P4A campaign raised over $720,000 and sold items such as a 5,000 word preview of a new book John has been working on, a men of YouTube calendar and art made by fellow fans of
“IT’S EASY TO GET LOST IN THE NUMBER OF SUBSCRIBERS AND VIEWS, BUT WHEN YOU HEAR FROM A KID WHOSE LIFE WAS SAVED BY YOU MENTIONING A SUICIDE PREVENTION AND CRISIS LIFELINE, YOU SEE THE PEOPLE WITHIN THOSE NUMBERS” the two Green brothers, also known as “nerdfighters.” The money these generous nerdfighters raised went to charities like The Harry Potter Alliance, which fights inequality and illiteracy and This Star Won’t Go Out, which directly supports families of children with cancer. On December 12 and 13, John and Hank will be holding the 8th annual Project for Awesome, where hopefully more money will be raised and even more people will be helped.
underprivileged youth gain access to better healthcare, education and opportunities. His initial goal was $250,000 but it was surpassed by nearly $100,000. Kjellberg offered a number of perks to get people to donate to the cause, from a chance to be in a group video chat with him for $300 to the chance to have a video dedicated to a company for $50,000. He also sold some of his favorite video games every week and agreed to donate a dollar for every 1,000 views his video introducing the campaign received. By the end of the campaign, Kjellberg himself donated at least $3,500 to the charity. This campaign marks the second time the eager philanthropist has asked his rapidly growing audience to raise money for a charity. Last year, Kjellberg raised over $446,000 for Charity Water, which was enough money to provide clean water for more than 25,000 people – talk about changing the world.
photo courtesy of twitter.com YouTuber Felix Kjellberg (also known as “PewDiePie”), who also has the most subscribers, followed suit with his fellow viewers and harnessed the power of his 32 million followers to help those in need. When Kjellberg first hit 25 million followers back in March of this year, he launched a campaign to raise money for Save the Children, an organization that provides aid for families in natural disasters and help
In the age of the Internet, watching or sharing a YouTube video can save lives. Supporters no longer have to actually volunteer to make a difference. The Internet gives the people the power to change the world and helps those in need. While some people use the Internet to build themselves up, others use it to build the world up.
W27
11
DECEMBER 2014
Fashion Fights Back: Efforts to Stop Counterfeiting Enters a New Phase by Dara Kenigsberg and Michael Yavid
As the all-too-familiar saying goes: “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.” But there is a limit to how much imitation is appropriate before it crosses a line, especially in the fashion industry. Counterfeits cost the global economy $250 billion a year and the value of counterfeit goods seized rose by 38.1% from 2012 to 2013, from $1.2 billion to $1.7 billion. Luxury goods, specifically handbags and wallets, are the most counterfeited items because they are more valuable. Due to better technology, counterfeiting methods have improved so much so that it makes detection extremely difficult. This has allowed counterfeiters to charge higher prices and make greater profits, which in turn has grown the counterfeit market. Costing legitimate fashion houses a considerable amount of money, many have implemented initiatives that raise awareness by educating consumers about counterfeits and aim to stop the spread of this criminal activity. Further educating the public is crucial, and the Faking it: Originals, Copies and Counterfeits is a new exhibit at the Museum at FIT doing just that. Since 2011, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and e-Bay have come together in the fight against counterfeit goods. Their You Can’t Fake Fashion initiative seeks to raise awareness while celebrating original design. The CFDA chose to team up with e-Bay because they comprehend that counterfeit items hurt not only consumer confidence, but also damage the thousands of businesses that sell authentic items in the marketplace. Furthermore, e-Bay is dedicated to preventing the sale of counterfeits through its Buyer Protection Plan and Verified Rights Owner Program. E-Bay also removes any items from its site that are reported as counterfeit by brand owners as well as any items that are deemed suspicious. They also provide the tools for owners to effectively identify and report items so that they can be taken down, and the site works closely with law enforcement officials to prosecute offenders. Through You Can’t Fake Fashion, the CFDA and e-Bay have been educating consumers about the adverse effects of knock-offs. The initiative has brought together 90 of America’s most influential designers to customize a canvas tote and make it a one-of-a-kind bag. When this idea launched in 2011, there were 50 designers on board and by 2013, 40 more had designed totes for the collection, a clear expression of how gravely important this is. The first collection sold out in 24 hours, the second, in 2012, sold out in 47 minutes. The designers range from established designers like Ralph Lauren and Carolina Herrera to those that are still new in the industry like Cushnie et Ochs and Rachel Zoe. According to
Elle.com, “Bags were ripped, dip-dyed, embroidered, embellished, and in some cases, completely transformed from their original canvas tote state, proving that anyone can be original with a little creativity.” Judith Leiber’s version was much like her signature jeweled miniature bag. With a rounded-square shape, it was covered in silver crystals and the words You Can’t Fake Fashion were emblazoned in blue crystals. Other designers that stuck to their signatures were Diane Von Furstenberg, who embellished her bag with her lip print and Tabatha Simmons who drew shoes on hers. Tory Burch’s bag, which was woven in blue and white and had a mirrored dreamcatcher with three pom-poms hanging from one of the handles, echoed the luxurious yet bohemian style she has become known for. Lorraine Schwartz’s bag was covered in a spiral pattern of green and brown feathers, while Zac Posen decided to use tulle netting to veil his. Rafe New York told
photo courtesy of fitnyc.edu Forbes, “I wanted to use an iconic shape to my brand but done in a playful material like neoprene.” Monique Lhullier used python and Tommy Hilfiger went with a nautical theme applying navy stripes to a bright white canvas and dual red leather top handles. This was the first year that e-Bay auctioned the designer totes and all the proceeds went to the CFDA Foundation to stop counterfeiting and support original design. The original totes, which served as a blank canvas for the designers and simply read, You Can’t Fake Fashion, were sold for the Buy It Now price of $50. The original designer bags started at $100. Another company dedicated to stopping the sale of counterfeit goods is Christian Louboutin. In 2010, the company launched its StopFake initiative as an online portal for consumers to find out if
“HOPES FOR A BETTER INDUSTRY ULTIMATELY REST IN THE HANDS OF A BETTEREDUCATED CONSUMER WHO WILL UNDERSTAND THE CONSEQUENCES OF COUNTERFEITING.” a website is selling authentic Louboutin wares. The site offers information on product seizures, anti-counterfeiting strategies being put in place, a live online store-checker and a contact form where customers can report counterfeit products. A spokesperson for StopFake told WorldTrademarkReview.com, “It was the first website entirely dedicated to fakes ever launched by a luxury brand, and
photo courtesy of fitnyc.edu from the very beginning, it was designed as a two-way source of information. We receive an average of 200 emails each week and all reports are considered and thanked for.” Much like Christian Louboutin’s own initiative is StopFakes. com. Dedicated to stopping the sale of counterfeit/knock off products and preventing fraud online, this website offers news about counterfeits, provides a place for consumers to report website selling knock-offs, gives tips on how to shop safe and offers an official seal that designers can put on their websites to demonstrate that they are authentic. Versace, Marc Jacobs and Sherri Hill are among the designers that have the StopFake seal. A third way companies can put an end to counterfeits is not so much an initiative as it is a technology. Christian Muller, a researcher at Chalmers University in Sweden who specializes in chemical engineering and polymer technology,
has recently developed a thread that “has unique optical properties so manufacturers can create a signature pattern in their clothes – making it easier to tell the real thing from the knock offs,” according to cba.com. Invisible to the naked eye, it can only be seen under specialized light. Muller says that “fashion houses and manufacturers can create their own unique combinations and patterns that can only be seen under polarized light.” The technology can also be used to weave a virtual bar code into fabrics, which would make it easier to track inventory, allowing for better quality control. Faking It: Originals, Copies and Counterfeits is an exclusive FIT exhibit focusing on the authorized and unauthorized history of copying. Organized by the Museum of FIT’s assistant curator, Arielle Elia, the exhibit opened December 2. It takes visitors through a chronological timeline, starting in 1903, by comparing original pieces, to their knock-off counterparts. Showcasing pieces from famous designers such as Coco Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto and Christian Louboutin to name a few, the goal is to show viewers techniques used to discern the originals from the copies. Viewers should leave the museum with a better understanding of how to differentiate the two and spot the specifics that counterfeits fail to address, such as the details in production that they either don’t realize they are missing or were not able to replicate because of financial or manufacturing limitations. Several videos are featured throughout the exhibit, one specifically including interviews with varying industry insiders to form a wellrounded perspective on the current state of protection for fashion designers. With an entire industry threatened, serious preventative measures are being taken to minimize illegal counterfeiting activities. From designers themselves using techniques to brand their products with distinguished marks, to organizations such as the CFDA spreading informative campaigns on the subject, change is clearly necessary. Hopes for a better industry ultimately rest in the hands of a better-educated consumer who will understand the consequences of counterfeiting.
FEATURE Tech-Innovators Dig Deep to Fight Ebola by Loren Adiutori
“Have you heard the new joke about Ebola? Never mind, you probably won’t get it.” This wisecrack was once told to me following a discussion on how the tri-state area was quick to panic about the disease that started spreading in West Africa and was carried to New York City via Dr. Craig Spencer, who has since recovered and is safe at home. And if you are like me and are sometimes slow on the uptake, the joke implies that while Ebola is an awful disease, it was contained to one patient here so the likelihood of him spreading it to other New Yorkers was quite slim. And yet, many are still apprehensive thanks to the media. But panicking about anything does not solve problems. Action solves problems. Got another exam tomorrow? Go study, no problem. Accidentally, cut yourself while cooking? Put a Band-Aid on it, no problem. Ebola becomes a world-wide epidemic? Properly train hospital staff to deal with their patients, educate the public on the signs and symptoms of the disease and if you’re able to, donate to help fight it. To that last point, Bill and Melinda Gates released a statement back in September on their eponymous foundation’s website that they were giving $50 million to the cause. Of course neither Bill nor Melinda is a stranger to spreading the Microsoft wealth. The Gates Foundation was started in 1997 on advice from fellow philanthropist Warren Buffett. “Don’t just go for safe projects,” he said. “Take
on the really tough problems.” Since then, the husband-and-wife team have tackled everything from global policy issues like tobacco control to ensuring global devel-
“DON’T JUST GO FOR SAFE PROJECTS,” HE SAID. “TAKE ON THE REALLY TOUGH PROBLEMS.” opment in such areas as agriculture, newborn and child health, nutrition, water sanitation and hygiene. (Mr. Gates recently took a trip with author John Green to visit and learn about hospitals in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia with unsafe water conditions.) And being that the foundation has also committed funds to global health initiatives for HIV, malaria and tuberculosis along with Ebola, it’s safe to say the Gates have indeed heeded Buffett’s advice. Other tech moguls have followed suit. On October 14, Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg’s status update was particularly interesting: “[My wife] Priscilla and I are donating $25 million to the Centers for Disease Control Foundation to help fight Ebola. The Ebola epidemic is at a critical turning point. It has infected
Photo courtesy of nydailynews.com.
8,400 people so far, but it is spreading very quickly and projections suggest it could infect 1 million people or more over the next several months if not addressed. We need to get Ebola under control in the near term so that it doesn’t spread further and become a long term global health crisis that we end up fighting for decades at large scale, like HIV or polio. We believe our grant is the quickest way to empower the CDC and the experts in this field to prevent this outcome. Grants like this directly help the frontline responders in their heroic work. These people are on the ground setting up care centers, training local staff, identifying Ebola cases and much more. We are hopeful this will help save lives and get this outbreak under control.” Zuckerberg outlined an action plan on November 6 when he shared a video, also on his timeline, explaining that he and his company have provided internet connection to Guinea, Liberia and Sierra Leone to help medical responders in those countries track their progress, partner with UNICEF to share their efforts and given everyone on Facebook the option to donate directly. You may have noticed this last update in your most recent visit to the social network. You may have also noticed that a similar prompt urging a $1 donation came up during your latest Google search. That’s right; Google copied Facebook in the name of philanthropy. There have been other efforts as well. So if there’s one bandwagon to hop on, it’s this one.
Photo courtesy of forbes.com.
W27
13
DECEMBER 2014
Burberry’s Holiday Magic by Molly Clarke and Allison Moran
Known for its iconic trench coat, Burberry has recently been getting a lot of attention for its holiday season campaign. “From London With Love,” is a four-minute film centered around young love and gift giving during the holidays. “This festive campaign is a celebration of everything we love at Burberry; the trench coat, the cashmere scarf, incredible music, our British weather, and working with great and talented people,” said CEO and Chief Creative Officer, Christopher Bailey. The campaign launched on November 3rd in a star studded event at the brand’s global flagship store on Regent Street in London. Three generations of Beckhams were in attendance to see Romeo Beckham star in the film. Both his parents, Victoria and David, and his grandparents, couldn’t have been more proud as they watched his captivating performance on screen. Musician Ed Harcourt wrote the song, “The Way that I Live” for the video and performed it live for the first time that night. In the film, 12-year old Romeo plays cupid, bringing together a young couple played by British models and dancers, Hannah Dodd and Anders Hayward. Clad in Burberry’s iconic check cashmere scarf, a miniature version of their Heritage trench coat and a black tuxedo, Romeo’s performance was seamless as he danced his way through a romanticized London, with Burberry presents serving
as his bow and arrow. A 50 person dance troupe accompanied them on stage, as they all broke out in a dance choreographed by Lynne Page. The female dancers wore nude tiered tulle dresses with trench capelets and their male counterparts were dressed like Romeo, wearing Burberry check scarves around
in cinemas and across outdoor advertising. Coinciding with the launch, Burberry began selling gifts in-store and online exclusively for the holiday season. According to luxurydaily.com, “These include the heritage items featured in the campaign, including trench coats, scarves, eveningwear and the beauty look envisioned by Burberry make-up artistic consultant Wendy Rowe.” In November, Burberry began utilizing Twitter’s “In Tweet Purchasing” feature to sell items from their Winter Glow beauty line to customers in the United States. “My Burberry,” the new fragrance from the brand, is also a part of their holiday line up, and will go on sale in December. Also beginning this month, a Burberry billboard in One Piccadilly in London will be interactive, allowing consumers to make the film their own with a custom-
Photo courtesy of augustman.com their necks and black tuxedos. Swinging newspapers, Burberry umbrellas and bags only added to the routine. The film ends with Mr. Hayward and Ms. Dodds dressed to the nines, ballroom dancing as snow falls around them. Romeo, eyeing his accomplishment and wearing a golden raincoat from Burberry’s autumn/winter collection 2013, runs off into the night as fireworks go off in the background. It was filmed on location at a custom-designed set on the George Lucas stage at Elstree Studios in London. According to dailymail.co.uk, the film draws inspiration from the “golden age of cinematic musicals,” and “celebrates gifting as the ultimate symbol of connection between people.” For the next three months, the campaign will run on Burberry’s ten social media platforms,
presentation at its flagship store. There will be a large display on the outside of the store and an exclusive collection for Printemps as well. Entitled, “The Magical Christmas Journey by Burberry,” it “tells the story of a young boy who floats from London to Paris on an umbrella,” according to luxurydaily.com. This season, Burberry is keeping with its tradition of showing affection through gifting. Their campaign last year was aimed at wealthy holiday shoppers a few weeks before the shopping season began with a social video that advertised seasonal products. The difference between this campaign and that of most other brands is that, instead of focusing mainly on the products, Burberry is making an emotional appeal to the consumers.
Because the Beckham name brings so much clout and attention, this year’s campaign has a larger media following than previous years. However, this was not Romeo’s first time representing the brand. In 2013, he appeared alongside Cara Delevingne and Edie Campbell for their Spring/ Summer campaign. Then and now, he was able to Photo courtesy of cdni.condenast.co.uk capture the hearts (and wallets) of ized message. In addition, the company is women worldwide.. Christopher Bailey bringing back their “gifting van,” which said, “It continues to be an utter joy workwill visit multiple flagship stores and landing with Romeo. He has charm, style and marks around the world to deliver gifts. great energy! I’m delighted that he’s the lead role in our festive campaign.” The Parisian department store Printemps is featuring Burberry in its holiday
Photo courtesy of glamourmagazine.co.uk
FEATURE
FIT
14
A Magazine With A Conscience by Shyam Patel
New York: a city where it’s all about your career, how much you’re making, oh and what you’re wearing. How does one begin the conversation about a sociallyconscious lifestyle and conscious initiatives in place where it’s all about “me”? Rachael Baxter-Lechliter and her sister Elena Baxter took on the challenge of starting the dialogue in 2013 when they launched Conscious Magazine, a biannual publication dedicated to telling stories about “culture, people, and communities that make a difference and drive action.” “New York is a little difficult,” Baxter-Lechliter explained over coffee one afternoon. “When we try to introduce conscious living into the conversation here in New York we get blank stares.” That’s not to say that New York doesn’t have a conscious culture; each issue is set up to focus on a new city and issue one of Conscious Magazine is based on New York. It’s getting the word out that can be tough at times. Flashback five years: Baxter-Lechliter, the current editor-in-chief of Conscious Magazine, and Baxter, the current web editor, were sitting on the couch conversing about blogging and having an online presence. “We found blogging really cool and we wanted to have a voice online, but we didn’t know what we would talk about,” Baxter-Lechliter said. She became more aware of issues like the orphan crisis and sex slavery when in college when she saw it wasn’t an issue limited to other countries; it’s a problem here in the U.S. too. She felt so passionately about the issue that she set up a nonprofit to raise awareness about sex trafficking. At the same time, her sister spent time traveling abroad, learning about different cultures and what life is like beyond the tri-state area.
Both sisters graduated from King’s College where Baxter-Lechliter felt the faculty was intent on building leaders. Here, the sisters were inspired to make an impact of their own. Rachael, being the phenomenal organizer with a background in business and nonprofit work, and Elena, being the heartfelt listener
and social media/web wizard, it made sense for them to tell stories that have a socially conscious take on an Internet platform. “When we started the blog it was just something out of our hearts. We continued to build on it and the more we learned, the more stories we came across and the more apparent it became that we’re really onto something. All the while we were blogging there were pockets of people building their businesses that gave back to give back. A lot of conscious fashion designers and social initiatives were popping up all at the same time,” BaxterLechliter passionately recalled. After establishing the blog, the sisters
Conscious Commerce, Olivia Wilde and her business partner Barbara Burchfield’s curated site for conscious brands, held a pop-up shop in New York City where copies of Conscious Magazine were sold. “They called us up to see if we wanted to sell our magazine in the shop and have a portion of the sales donated to The Global Citizen Project,” Baxter-Lechliter excitedly recalled. “What’s so cool about this community is that we all want to work with each other, collaborate and help be creative.” She has also spoken on social initiatives at The Mashable Social Good Summit, on fashion and social good at Harvard’s Igniting Innovation Summit and on moral innovative leadership at the
Photo courtesy of Rachael Baxter “No. Collaboration is a part of our core. A lot of people are so gracious, they volunteer their time. We don’t have the budget yet to have a permanent staff. We don’t come from a moneyed background. I held a full time job up until July to help fund the magazine.” Her sister also has a day job as Advanced Media Manager (a sort of social media coordinator) for Major League Baseball.
created a two-page vision sheet about what they wanted to accomplish through their newfound online voice. They proceeded to involve twenty close friends in the project. “We then decided to take the idea offline and host intimate events where we could meet the people and share our story. From the very beginning relationship building was a core competency of what we wanted: a community,” Baxter-Lechliter said. In 2013, the sisters decided to rebrand, transforming their blog into a biannual publication and establishing a website and a team “of professionals, social entrepreneurs, leaders, non-profit founders, writers, creatives, photographers, students, and journalists who help produce the magazine and its web stories.” To the sisters, social good and consciousness is a lifestyle that should have an organized community. Baxter-Lechliter has been following its formation for years now saying that it may even be better defined as “the social good industry.” Although Conscious Magazine has only been established for a year they’ve been able to build up quite a bit of credibility within “the social good industry.” The Global Citizen Project, an organization that fights extreme poverty, and
International Youth Leader’s Assembly at the UN. Through their coverage of events and initiatives by different organizations and brands, Conscious Magazine has established a relationship with organizations like The Grammy Foundation and Asian Hope as well as fashion and lifestyle brands like Apolis, The Weekend Society and The Base Project. Conscious covers a broad range of social good topics. “We thought about focusing on one area, but between my sister and me, we couldn’t. This is all done out of curiosity. What is urban innovation? What is fair trade fashion? What is sustainability? How does someone actually go into another country and develop a school? It’s a whole spectrum of social initiatives,” Baxter-Lechliter elucidated. This curiosity and hunger for social good has caught the attention of individuals that Rachael and Elena call “the next generation of storytellers,” or their contributors. “You can tell a story through photography, art, poetry, writing, film, maybe even panel moderation. We want to work with these storytellers and inspire them to cover stories that matter,” Baxter-Lechliter explains. “So you have a permanent staff?” I asked.
Their vision for the future of Conscious Magazine is to have a publication that’s a household name and a leader in the conscious lifestyle movement; a publication they can pass on to the next generation. “I could be sitting doing my everyday work, but I’m constantly envisioning where Conscious can go. This is going to take forty or fifty years to build up, but in the nearer future I want to get more involved with TV and video,” BaxterLechliter explained. It’s all about reaching the next person and inspiring them to drive action behind something they care about. As they say at Conscious, “everyone has a voice and the power to make a difference.”
Follow Conscious Magazine: Twitter: @cmagazine Instagram: @cmagazine Facebook: Conscious Magazine (https:// www.facebook.com/consciousmagazine) Website: www.consciousmagazine.co (yes, .co and not .com)
15
W27
DECEMBER 2014
Joseph Loria:
One Student’s Fight to Ban Fur by Hermina Sobhraj
But can banning the use of fur for all FIT students be considered extreme? “No, I don’t think so,” Loria told W27. “I think FIT has an obligation in creating the next generation’s top designers,
Photo courtesy of Joseph Loria
especially if they want to consider themselves a top fashion school, to not allow their students to use fabrics that have been proven inhumane.” Such inhumane practices, he continues, involve fur farms, where 85% of animals used for fur are raised, according to the IFF. Loria elaborates that these animals are placed in small cages in these farms, where their nails are overgrown and wrapped around the metal bars of the cage to prevent them from escaping. The animals are then electrocuted, as this is the best method for preserving the fur.
Joseph Loria is an animal rights activist, majoring in his senior year of Advertising and Marketing Communications at the Fashion Institute of Technology. He, like many others, petitions for laws that prevent animal cruelty, such as genetic manipulation and hoarding. On October 23, Loria brought his advocacy to campus grounds. In an email to The Sustainability Council, Loria wrote, “With FIT's recent attempts at being more Eco-friendly and sustainable, it boggles my mind that administrators haven't already created a policy that bans fur.” As we’d expect, his controversial statement has been met with its fair share of backlash, as it not only calls attention to FIT but also the entire fur trade, which is valued at $40 billion dollars this year, according to the International Fur Federation (IFF). Loria is a social media coordinator for Long Island Orchestrating for Nature (LION), a 100% volunteer run animal welfare nonprofit. “My job there is to inform the public about the cruelty that animals face in today’s modern world,” his email continues. “One such aspect of animal rights has caught my attention because of the environment I go to school in. Fur.” In June, Loria landed an internship with the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.) He makes it clear that he’s not an extremist and while he agrees with some of its ideals, he is not beholden to PETA in any way.
Middlemiss, a professor in Fashion Design, also shared an opposing opinion: “Fur is a very, very important part of today’s fashion scene. The students I have been working with have wanted to use both real and fake fur in their garments…I feel that everyone should be able to design and make what they want.” While Loria’s arguments haven’t resonated well with FIT, they should not be underestimated. He’s part of a large
Photo courtesy of peta.org stated that PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals), while notorious for its obscene and intrusive messages, still has over 2 million supporters worldwide and “has doubtlessly been instrumental in spreading the word about the downside of fur.” But opinions aside, we cannot ignore the numbers mentioned above that were released by the IFF. While animal activists have clearly driven down the use and consequently, the sales, of fur in the past, it’s clear that the $40 billion valuation released by the organization rears its ugly head at a cold, true fact: the fur industry is currently making a large comeback. As CEO Mark Oaten of the IFF tells Stylecaster.com, “It’s easy to get caught up in the emotions the business can generate, but the truth is that the fur trade is an economic cornerstone in Europe and beyond. Much of the fashion and increasingly the soft furnishings world relies on fur—and will continue to do so for the foreseeable future.” Would banning the use of fur at FIT deprive its future designers the skills necessary to survive in a currently budding industry?
Illustration by Jessica Blicksilver With this being said, senior Alexandra Kalatzis majoring in Advertising and Marketing Communications, still argued Loria’s stance, stating in an email to W27 that “FIT would be supporting severe vegan fashion, which is highly niche not to mention unrealistic in the $1.5 trillion dollar fashion industry.” Marlene
community with a powerful backing. In 1991, the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) levied $2.1 million dollars in fines against six fur processing plants, as mentioned on the organization’s website. According to the New York Times, “mink imports to the U.S. decreased by 30% in 2009 from 2008 levels.” The same article
For Joseph Loria, it wouldn’t. “In my Philosophy of Ethics class we learned about Jeremy Bentham, the father of utilitarianism. When asked about animal rights, he once said, ‘The question is not, Can they reason? nor, Can they talk? but, Can they suffer?’”
FEATURE
16
FIT
17
W27
DECEMBER 2014
MAKE THE
HOLIDAYS POP MODEL NICOLE ZIMMERMANN PHOTOGRAPHER VICKY MATHEW LOCATION HIGHLINE, CHELSEA, NYC HAIRSTYLIST MARIO SISNEROS MERCHANDISE STYLE SHOP. SKIRT - PRADA
WITH FIT’S
STYLE SHOP
HAUTE CULTURE JOAN DIDION, CAPTURED ON FILM by Aaron Valentic
photo courtesy of telegraph.co.uk
It goes without saying that there are a few names in American Literature that stand the test of time. Names like Fitzgerald, Salinger or Capote strike a certain chord among reading enthusiasts and everyday people alike, for they have been able to capture the zeitgeist. Joan Didion, a writer who can truly showcase human emotion on an entirely new level, can easily stand amongst those names. A rather private and reclusive person, Didion is known for her unwillingness to partake in interviews; however with the help of her nephew, actor and director Griffin Dunne, her rather passionate personality is about to be showcased to the world on the big screen. The upcoming documentary, “We Tell Ourselves Stories In Order To Live,” provides a look at her life story unlike anything before. A new generation of fans and those already fascinated with her will be able to get a glimpse of her fascinating world. As described by her nephew, Joan Didion (clearly put) is “The most influential American writer alive today”, which is why he was so shocked there were no documentaries already made about his aunt. He got the idea when she was releasing her latest novel “Blue Nights.” Dunne filmed her from time to time in the comfort and privacy of her home and other clandestine venues, and as she received the National Medals of Arts and Humanities from President Barack Obama in mid-2013. From that moment on, Dunne couldn’t help but to not place his camera down, and he kept filming. The documentary got its funding from Kickstarter, giving fans of the potential documentary, as well as fans of Didion herself, the ability to make a donation, thus becoming a part of the process. The initial goal to raise $80,000, has long been surpassed and nearly $211,000 has been raised, with donations ranging from $1 to $5,000 and beyond. The film, which will highlight the life of Joan Didion, intertwines the novelists life story with the stories and themes of her many novels over the past half-century,
“THIS WRITER WHO HAS SUFFERED SOME OF THE MOST INCREDIBLE HIGHS AND MOST PAINFUL LOWS IS ABOUT TO HAVE HER LIFE REVEALED IN THE UPCOMING DOCUMENTARY.” discussing topics from liberation movements to personal tragedies. Even the narration of the movie includes excerpts from her works, about which Griffin Dunne notes, “the narration is already written because Joan has been writing it since she was a little girl.” As a young child growing up in Sacramento, CA, Didion began to write little things down as early as age five, which lead her to believe she was a socalled “shy, bookish child” who enjoyed being engulfed by a book or story. After graduating from the University of California, Berkeley, with a Bachelor of Arts in English, Didion won first place in an essay contest sponsored by Vogue, and was awarded a full-time position at the magazine in New York City. It was at Vogue that Didion accomplished two things personally. As described by her nephew, “as fashionable as she was in her own personal style, she was not somebody who was following designers. She went to Vogue to get her bones as a writer, and they gave her that.” Along with fine-tuning her writing style, Joan met the love of her life, John Gregory Dunne, a writer at Time. The two married in 1964 in Los Angeles, and later had a daughter named Quintana. Although thinking a move to Los Angeles was only temporary for the couple that favored New York City, the West Coast became their home for the next twenty years. During their marriage, Didion wrote some of her most famous works as a novelist, including such titles as “Slouching Towards Bethlehem” (her first official published work as a novelist), “Miami,”
“The White Album” and “A Book of Common Prayer.” All of her works combine startling honesty with fierce intellect, which is what makes them distinguishable. On December 30, 2003, tragedy struck: her husband suffered a fatal heart attack at their dining room table, dying within minutes. During the time of his death, their daughter Quintana lay motionless in the ICU with septic shock from pneumonia. Waiting nearly three months, Didion put off funeral arrangements so that her daughter could attend the services in good health. After making a successful recovery, less than two years later Quintana died from acute pancreatitis in August of 2005. From these deaths, Didion was able to publish one of her most famous works entitled “The Year of Magical Thinking,” which describes how she came to terms with death and the loss of a loved one. Today the book has become a tremendous source of comfort for those in mourning. Joan Didion today remains an influential American writer. At nearly 80, this writer who has suffered some of the most incredible highs and most painful lows is about to have her life revealed in the upcoming documentary. “We Tell Ourselves Stories In Order To Live” is a fascinating glimpse into how we as human beings are able to put our own stories into context. As a sort of modernage way of thinking, we have Joan Didion to thank for that.
19
W27
DECEMBER 2014
THE FASHION STUDENT’S NETFLIX: OVATION TV by Kaylee Denmead
There is a television network and online platform devoted entirely to the arts and is supported by the one and only Anna Wintour. You may have heard of it. Ovation is America’s only network with a “mission to inspire the world through all forms of art and artistic expression,” as it states on its website. Ovation reaches an audience of 50 million homes and is available through countless network carriers, but in a world that’s shifting towards everything being on our laptops and cell phones, Ovation also has an exceptional website. Easy to navigate, intriguing to look through and filled with articles, clips, interviews and episodes, one can get lost on the Ovation site for hours. Aren’t you glad I’m telling you right in time for finals? If that wasn’t enough to make you visit the site, The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in viewerversion most certainly is. Anna Wintour mentions in a clip off of Ovation’s website, “The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund really came out of the tragedy of September the 11th.” Reminding the viewers that September 11 occurred on the first day of New York fashion week, dashing the dreams of many small, yet talented designers who had put a lot of money into fashion shows that were subsequently cancelled. Out of this New York tragedy, The Fashion Fund was established. Defined as an endowment to support the next generation of American fashion designers, the goal of the CFDA/Vogue
Fashion Fund is to provide sufficient monetary income to one or more designers who have a clear talent in design, as well as a conceptualized design plan, awarding the champion with $300,000 and two runner-ups with $100,000 each. Since 2004, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund has been turning dreamers into world-renowned designers and brands that inspire even the most talented. The first ever winner was Proenza Schouler in 2004. In the following years, runnersup have included Derek Lam, Rodarte, Thakoon, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Prabal Gurung, Tabitha Simmons and more. Though all winners are notable, two that stand out are Alexander Wang in 2008 and Altuzarra in 2011. To say that the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund has cranked out some of the best up-and-coming designers in the last ten years would be an understatement. This incredible opportunity has taken to television in the last two years to highlight how a designer gets into the competition, how the competition runs and how the winner gets chosen. Heading into Season Two, “The Fashion Fund” airs on Wednesdays at 10 PM on Ovation TV. With a Project Runway-esque vibe (with more exclusive grand prizes), Anna Wintour supervises a competition in which ten designers compete for a chance to be named Fashion Fund Designer of the Year while working with many industry talents. With previous mentions of the incredible prizes and talented winners, it’s important to note who takes on the
difficult task of judging the newest group of skilled up and comers. To start off, there is the obvious Anna Wintour. She fronted the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and is therefore the right woman to judge the contestants. Second is the legendary Diane von Furstenberg who, besides being known for her designs, is also the President of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Following von Furstenberg is Ken Downing, the senior vice president and fashion director for Neiman Marcus. Jenna Lyons, president and executive creative director of J. Crew Group is the next judge to join this influential list, followed by Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA. The designers of Rag and Bone, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, were named finalists in the Fashion Fund in 2006 and now help to judge the competition as well. Other judges include Mark Holgate, fashion news director at Vogue; Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president at Nordstrom; Reed Krakoff, president and executive creative director at Reed Krakoff; and Andrew Rosen, president and founder of Theory. It takes a talented group to judge the talented designers who make it through the rigorous application process. A five-phase process narrows down hundreds of applicants into just ten finalists. Phase one includes a 350-word biographical statement to affirm a designer’s eligibility. It’s a lot of pressure to describe what makes you a good candidate for such
a prestigious award, but those papers narrow down the candidates to just fifty people. Just think of your college application essays. In phase two, specific information about one’s plans, goals, dreams and more takes another 40 candidates from the list, giving you your final ten. This is when the television show kicks in, as the finalists are interviewed and asked to show looks from past, present and upcoming collections. The Selection Committee visits the design studios of the participants in phase four…that’s right, Anna Wintour waltzing into your design studio. What a terrifyingly amazing concept. Lastly, the Selection Committee narrows down the ten applicants into one award recipient and one or two runner(s)-up, depending on their talents in November. If this hasn’t made you intrigued to watch the show and catch a glimpse of Anna Wintour’s judging eyes then a quick visit to www.ovationtv.com will have you hooked. With episodes to watch, photos to click past, a fashion blog on the site and designer look books to scroll through, you can spend hours browsing the site and getting caught up on the action. The glimpse into such an incredible award and the way it gets chosen is too intriguing to turn down: So, head on over to the site, try to still make time for final projects and studying, and most of all, happy watching.
FILM REVIEW:
“WHIPLASH” by Rachel Basel
jazz drummers of all time. Neyman is discovered by Professor Terence Fletcher, played by Simmons and is asked to play for the school’s prestigious studio band as a mere freshman. Fletcher, a merciless drill sergeant instructor, has made it his life goal to one day produce a brilliant hall-of-famer. He sees Photo courtesy of imdb.com. a great amount of potential in Neyman and attempts to When one thinks of drumming, specificultivate greatness by terrorizing and humiliating him in front of the cally jazz drumming, terror isn’t necensemble. The film was inspired by direcessarily the first thing that pops into tor Damien Chazelle’s own experience as one’s head. The genre of jazz is smooth, a jazz drumming student. cool and easy to listen to, but the indie film “Whiplash,” that’s slowly gaining Neyman moves his dorm room mattress well-deserved recognition as one of the next to his drum set and begins practicbest films of the year, proves otherwise. The film, starring Miles Teller (“The ing day and night until he has to soothe Spectacular Now, Divergent”) and JK his blood-soaked hands in ice water. He Simmons (“Juno”), takes a terrifyingly becomes wildly arrogant and breaks up visceral look into the unique art of jazz with his girlfriend, telling her that his drumming and astounds as a dark, warsuccess is more important than anything like movie about ambition and risk. she can give him. Teller plays Andrew Neyman, a student at an elite music school in New York City looking to be one of the greatest
There’s a scene in particular that stands out where Neyman’s place in the band is threatened by two other drummers and
Fletcher forces them to play for hours until one them proves to be up to his standards. Neyman is finally chosen after his blood and sweat are dripping onto the drum kit and his face his twisting in agony. You can feel the pain he’s experiencing, to the point where it was physically uncomfortable to watch. And yes, actor Teller does nearly all of the drumming himself. The movie leads up to a final drum solo which is one of the most incredible expressions of passion I’ve seen in a movie. Teller performs “Whiplash,” the actual jazz piece, for nearly 10 minutes proving not only his acting abilities, but his impressive talent as a musician. For a few seconds the film fades into complete silence,
but the music is still felt, before the percussion begin to rumble back in. What makes the movie so frightening is just how dark of a character Neyman becomes and just how far he’s willing to go to impress Fletcher. Teller portrays so much more than a charming protagonist stereotype, becoming a character dangerously ambitious and threatening not only to his fellow jazz musicians, but to everyone in his life. “Whiplash” is such a unique story of ambition, because initially, you root for Neyman, but by the end, you’re praying he’ll give it up for his, and frankly, your sanity. It is inspiring and relentless, and undoubtedly makes you question, “How far is too far?” when it comes to achieving greatness.
“IT IS INSPIRING AND RELENTLESS, AND UNDOUBTEDLY MAKES YOU QUESTION, ‘HOW FAR IS TOO FAR?’ WHEN IT COMES TO ACHIEVING GREATNESS.”
HAUTE CULTURE
FIT
20
GALLERY REVIEW:
DEATH BECOMES HER by Sarah Fielding
Death Becomes Her is unlike any other exhibition held by the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Curated by Harold Koda and Jessica Regan, this exhibit delves into how mourning attire has changed in the last two centuries. The funeral, something not normally used to show off the latest trends, is here being examined for the way it impacts fashion. It features around thirty gowns, including ones worn by Queen Alexandra and Queen Victoria.
beige undertone with pink sequins is a very interesting take on mourning attire. The second dress was also worn by Queen Alexandria. It has a similar concept but
The striking weeping black tree, draped around the gallery exhibit title, sets the mood for what follows inside. Through two rooms, funeral dresses in all shapes are on full display. Many of these feature cinched waists and flowing skirts - what we would typically picture a woman wearing before the twentieth century. However, in sharp contrast, are two colorful, sparkly dresses. Hidden off to the side, they are easy to miss. On closer examination, these prom-like dresses are beautiful but not what comes to mind when funeral attire is mentioned. One of these is a Henriette Favre evening dress worn by Queen Alexandria in 1902. The
photo courtesy of metmuseum.org is slightly more modest and has purple sequins adorning it. This is part of the exhibit’s charm: something so basic and obvious has so much more to it than one would have imagined.
Another interesting part of the exhibit was the projected quotes on the walls. These came from a variety of sources speaking on life and dresses, and offered explanations for the dresses on display. After all, these are garments that could have been worn at many instances in a woman’s life. There is something beautifully romantic about the dresses shown in this exhibit. Tied together nicely, they tell a story of how women who came before acted in similar situations we face today. The clothes were as classic as the women who would have worn them. The positioning made it easy to take everything in from all angles. While these clothes were gorgeous, the dim lighting and projected words that faded in and out set a dark undertone for the exhibit. there was a dark undertone to the exhibit. The gift shop, following the theme, sold ouija board mints and ravens. Though this exhibit highlighted a part of life many people try to forget, it’s a must see that compels you to appreciate beauty in an unlikely form.
GLITTERING WORLD: NAVAJO JEWELRY OF THE YAZZIE FAMILY by Natasha Hogg
Nihookaa` Dine`e (Earth Surface People, as the Navajos call themselves) believe that their ancestors took a journey from the First World upward through several underworlds. As each world became chaotic, they moved to another. As they entered this world by climbing a reed, some people say they emerged upon a great height. From there they could see the land around them was soft mud. As light and color reflected upon the moisture in the mud, it glittered and sparkled and they called this world the Glittering World. Navajo culture takes center stage in Glittering World. The new shining exhibit, which was curated by Lois Dubin, comes out of Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian and showcases close to 300 pieces of contemporary jewelry, created entirely by the talented Yazzie family of Gallup, New Mexico. The Yazzies are one of today’s most renowned jewelry making families, thanks in part to the 14-karat gold, silver and stone (turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral, etc.) inlay work of Lee Yazzie and younger brother, Raymond, as well as fine pieces of bead and stone made by their sister Mary and intricately designed silver works handcrafted by a few other siblings. Although the award-winning artistry takes center stage, the exhibit and works on display revolve very closely around the
art form also has deep-rooted significance in the long-standing traditions and culture of the Navajo. Turquoise, for one, is honored as a sacred stone in the tribes’ beliefs, being the color of both sky and water and is used in prayer offerings and gifted as a face of kinship and friendship in social activities. Corn, or naadaa, is also sacred to the people and used in daily prayer and other spiritual purposes and has been called a source of design and color inspiration for Navajo artists.
Illustration by Jessica Blicksilver Navajo way of life and cultural values. Now, thanks to organizations such as the Gallup Inter-tribal Indian Ceremonial and the Sante Fe Indian Market organized by the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts, Navajo jewelry has been moved from being grouped in such generic categories and are now being appreciated and sold as fine art. Earlier artists didn’t market or necessarily think of it as such, many using their skill to earn a living and support families. Aside from jewelry making being used as a means of trade and commerce, the
Lee Yazzie has made many statements about his inspirations but light seems to have a more central place in his life and work. “I have, or want to have, many more sunrises and sunsets in my life. I am always appreciative of the light that I have during the day from the sun….That drives me,” says Lee, “We receive light from the sun, and life is dependent on sunlight. From there you try to embellish it to show your appreciation.” These beliefs are central to not only the Yazzies, but to the Navajo people as a whole, including their “Dine Bahane” origin story. The story that explains how out of the dark of three underworlds came a strong nation of people, ones that would emerge into a new space of sun, moons and stars and flourish in the glittering world.
21
W27
DECEMBER 2014
EDITOR’S PICKS:
THE UNION SQUARE HOLIDAY MARKET THE UNION SQUARE HOLIDAY MARKET IS THE CONSUMMATE DESTINATION FOR UNIQUE, OFTEN LOCALLY MADE, GIFTS. OPEN FROM NOVEMBER 20 TO DECEMBER 24, IT HAS BECOME AN ANNUAL DESTINATION FOR SHOPPERS LOOKING TO FIND ONE-OFA-KIND PIECES WHILE CONNECTING WITH THE ARTISTS WHO MADE THEM. WHETHER BUYING FOR THAT SPECIAL SOMEONE OR TREATING YOURSELF, THE UNION SQUARE HOLIDAY MARKET IS A GREAT PLACE TO ENJOY THE HOLIDAY SPIRIT. HERE ARE OUR MUST SEE BOOTHS:
Kaisa & Paternoster Designs Husband and wife partners Jose Paternoster and Kaisa Manninen are the artists behind Kaisa & Paternoster Designs. They offer an extraordinary collection of handcrafted watches and jewelry. Each piece is designed by one of the artists, making them all one-of-a-kind. Mr. Paternoster has been in the watch business for 25 years and has become incredibly adept at turning timepieces into art, while his wife designs the jewelry. Copper, sterling silver and brass make up the majority of their pieces, which include rings, bracelets, necklaces, compasses, mechanical watches, pocket watches and wrap watches. Based out of Brooklyn, they do all the metalworking themselves. With detailed designs and vintage materials, their booth is a must see! Rings are priced between $45 and $145.
Photo courtesy of Hermina Sobhraj
Handmade in Brooklyn Handmade in Brooklyn is another can’t miss. Dan Butler does blind contour designs and then screen-prints the images on tee shirts and silkscreens. Some of his more geometric prints, he does with his eyes open. According to his website, he likes, “simple yet energetic representations of things.” Most of his work is based on New York City architecture, such as the Flat Iron building, Chrysler building and Empire State building, but he is also drawn to images that emanate light, such as lampposts, street lights, chandeliers, church lamps and gas lights. At $75, his rendering is of the Ansonia building on the Upper West Side is perhaps the most intricate. Works range in price from $10 - $75.
Brooklyn Brew Shop
Brooklyn Slate Company
This next booth is great for the beer enthusiast or the do-it-yourselfer. Erica Shea and Stephen Valand founded Brooklyn Brew Shop because they wanted to create a beer making kit that would be accessible in a really tiny New York City apartment. Because beer is normally brewed five-gallon at a time, it would be close to impossible for most New Yorkers to do at home themselves. To fix this, the pair scaled everything down while maintaining the integrity of the ingredients. All of the kits take up less than one square foot of space. They are relatively compact and were designed with a NYC apartment in mind. Each kit comes with all the tools and ingredients you would need to brew one gallon of beer. They are reusable so after you brew the first one, you can get more mix for the kit and do it again. The actual process is, according to the booth’s operator, “kind of like cooking oatmeal, it’s all on your stovetop, you mix all of the grains and hops and the barley together and the most important part is the fermentation where you let it sit for one month so it can become alcoholic and carbonated.” The stylish kits are $40 each.
Our last pick is Brooklyn Slate Company. Brooklyn graphic designer Sean Tice and Parson’s graduate student Kristy Hadeka formed this company to make unique cheeseboards out of slate. The positive response encouraged them to find other uses for it and add things like placemats, menu boards and table setting placards, to name a few, to their product line. Started in 2009, after visiting Hadeka’s family slate quarry in upstate New York, the pair decided to take a few pieces home to Brooklyn to use as all-purpose boards. They soon realized the potential and began using it as trivets for tea kettles and hot drinks and coasters for beer. They gave some to friends and everyone thought it was a brilliant idea. The two now regularly go to the Hadeka quarry and hand pick pieces of red and black slate. They take it back to their studio in Red Hook, Brooklyn where they cut and clean the slate so that it complies with food safety regulations. Using a slate cutter and other tools, they chip the edges to give it an unfinished, rough look and then assemble it in small batches. All of their packaging can be repurposed for other uses. The final product is a piece unlike any other in cut, shape, size and color. The smallest size cheeseboard is 6” x 10” ($28) and the largest is a multiple cheese plating at 12” x 18” ($46).
FIT SPEAKS Slice of Holiday Spirit With a Side of Consumerism by Dana Heyward
I am not generally the type who would be into any kind of kumbaya-singing, eggnog swigging or togetherness the holidays tend to bring. But the truth is, I completely and inherently am. All it takes is hearing a snippet of Mariah Carey’s “All I Want For Christmas Is You” and I’m set for the holiday season. All of the worries of the past 11 months turn into a blurry haze and it’s suddenly all about picking a tree, dusting off the old decorations and playing “Now That’s What I Call Christmas!” Volume One and Volume Two on constant repeat. But then, amongst all of the pomp and circumstance of the holiday season, there is a negative element - that magic buzzword always rears its ugly head: consumerism. Yes, the words, consumerism and holidays seem to go hand and hand whenever the last two months of the year roll around and the phrase “holiday season” becomes a front for “commercialized buying season.” Department stores start boosting their annual holiday sales and people start
saving up and spending the money that they don’t have or have yet to earn on gifts for their loved ones, co-workers and anyone in-between. The idea and feeling of the “holiday spirit” becomes completely construed and mutilated by advertisers and retailers but it doesn’t take much to realize this nor is it new. By October, we already start to see certain retailers (ahem, Costco) reserve some aisles for holiday decorations...but it all really starts with Black Friday. Over the years that single day has turned into a five-day event beginning on Thanksgiving evening and ending on Cyber Monday, where people decide it’s okay to act like sleep deprived maniacs just to score the best deals on gifts for their loved ones (and possibly themselves). The Canadians started a thing back in the ‘90s called “Buy Nothing Day,” which is essentially a raging protest against the consumerism of Black Friday.
and hikes to promote anti-consumerism. But the majority of people who have been waiting out in the cold for hours on end, to grab some “exclusive deal,” certainly aren’t moving out of line or slicing up their credit cards because of it. People are still going to be motivated to buy like crazy under the stigma that if they don’t, their loved ones will hate them, because just like decorating with strings of white light bulbs, it’s become a tradition. So yes, maybe a big part of the holidays are essentially “buy, buy, buy” and trying to find that perfect something for whoever is on your list that year. But despite all of this, it’s possible to dig past it and truly enjoy the essence of the holidays. And by essence I’m talking about, the smell of pine needles, seeing those relatives you rarely see and that song that goes like, “Chestnuts roasting on a open fire....” It’s still a time unlike any other time of the year, so enjoy it in whichever way you can.
Over the years the movement has spread internationally and includes acts such as cutting up credit cards in malls, sit-ins
Month In Review: Protests Break Out Across the Nation in Response to Grand Jury Decision in Ferguson by Dara Kenigsberg
On October 3, the nation learned of the grand jury’s decision not to indict the officer in the Ferguson, Missouri case. Back in August, white police officer, Darren Wilson, fatally shot an unarmed black 18-year old Michael Brown. The killing triggered weeks of protests and civil unrest fueled by what many believe to be a pattern of police brutality against young black men. Officer Wilson faced charges that ranged from involuntary manslaughter to first-degree murder. News of decision, which was made by a jury of nine whites and three blacks, set off a new surge of indignation among the hundreds who had gathered outside the Ferguson Police Department. Already prepared, the officers had on riot gear and formed a line to hold back the demonstrators as they chanted and threw things at them. According to the New York Times, “Bottles and rocks were thrown at officers, and windows of businesses were smashed. Several police cars were burned; buildings, including a Walgreens, a meat market and a storage facility, were on fire and looting was reported in several businesses. Gunshots could be heard along the streets of Ferguson, and law enforcement authorities deployed smoke and gas to control the crowds. In St. Louis, protesters swarmed Interstate 44 and blocked
all traffic near the neighborhood where another man was shot by police this fall.” Unlike the response in Ferguson and St. Louis, protesters in cities across the country gathered peacefully to show their support. In Chicago, around 200 mostly young white protestors came together at police headquarters, while others gathered in Los Angeles, Seattle and Philadelphia. The following day in New York City protesters took to the streets of Manhattan and Brooklyn, at times shutting down the Manhattan Bridge, portions of the West Side Highway and the FDR. According to CNN.com, “One protester didn’t even know about the protest until he saw it pass by his workplace on Times Square. He decided to join in….Police, who were nearby in large numbers, stayed back and let the marchers go.” In Oakland, CA, things got out of control when vandals smashed the windows of a car dealership, businesses were looted and bonfires were started. In L.A., part of the 101 Freeway was shut down going in both directions after the protesters took roadblocks and debris and put them on the freeway. Officer Sara Faden of the L.A.P.D. told CNN.com, “Protesters are demonstrating peacefully,” as they gathered outside the Los Angeles Police Department. In Boston, about 1,000 people took to the
streets in a largely peaceful protest, and in Denver and Dallas, a total of eight people were arrested after walking onto the interstate. Protesters in Washington lay down on a sidewalk outside police headquarters as if they were dead, for four minutes of solidarity with Michael Brown. Some wore shirts that said, “Black Lives Matter.” Such was the theme that played out across the country, in over 170 cities for the next few days. People chanted things like, “No Justice, No Peace,” “Hands Up, Don’t Shoot,” “Jail Killer Cops” and “Justice for Mike Brown.” With Black Friday at the end of the week, however, the demonstrators turned their attention towards disrupting commerce. Demonstrations took place in Chicago, New York City, St. Louis, Seattle and California. Kristina Colon, a member of the Let Us Breathe Collective that has been taking supplies such as gas masks to protestors in Ferguson, told ABCNews.com that Friday was a “day of awareness and engagement.” Referring to shoppers, she said, “We want them to think twice before spending that dollar today. As long as black lives are put second to materialism, there will be no peace.”
23
W27
DECEMBER 2014
Obama’s Executive Action Outrages Republicans: Unilaterally Blocks Deportation of 5 Million Immigrants by Dara Kenigsberg
As President Obama enters the last two years of his final term, he has begun enacting far-reaching executive actions that he hopes will be his legacy. After years of frustration and anger over not being able to set policy due to congressional gridlock, he is taking strides to assert “the powers of the Oval Office to reshape the nation’s immigration system,” according to the New York Times. On November 20, in a 15-minute address, the President cited Scripture, saying, “We shall not oppress a stranger for we know the heart of a stranger – we were strangers once, too.” Making an emotional appeal, he told Americans that deporting millions of people “is not who we are,” and then he addressed Congress. “To those members of Congress who question my authority to make our immigration system work better, or question the wisdom of me acting where congress has failed, I have one answer: Pass a bill.” His plan is multifaceted, and it addresses border security, streamlining immigration, earned citizenship and strengthening enforcement. Throughout his presidency, he has doubled the number
of border patrol agents and today border security is the strongest it has ever been. According to WhiteHouse.gov, “The President’s proposal gives law enforcement the tools they need to make our communities safer from crime. And by enhancing our infrastructure and technology, the President’s proposal continues to strengthen our ability to remove criminals and apprehend and prosecute threats to our national security.”
companies will be held accountable. The main focus of his plan is on creating provisional legal status for undocumented immigrants who are parents of United States citizens. According to the New York Times, he told those people, “You can come out of the shadows.” They have to come forward and register, submit biometric data, pass background and national security checks and pay fees and penalties. This will give them the opportunity for provisional legal status, giving many the chance to work legally. Those applying for green cards must pay their taxes and pass additional criminal background and national security checks, and five years after receiving their green card they can apply for citizenship.
“THIS IS A CONSTITUTIONAL REPUBLIC, NOT A BANANA REPUBLIC, IT’S TIME WE ALL STARTED ACTING LIKE IT.”
To ensure that businesses are hiring eligible workers, the proposal provides mandatory, phased-in electronic employment verification through a government database. The President’s proposal aims to stop unfair hiring practices and stop businesses from knowingly employing undocumented workers. With harsher penalties, these
Children who were brought here illegally, by no fault of their own, will be allowed to earn their citizenship by going to college or serving in the military for at least two years. Republicans are split on how to respond, with some saying they will use a coming spending bill and the threat of a Government shutdown as leverage against the President. Others, however, are looking for ways to “undercut the president’s actions by withholding money or threatening other priorities,” according to the New York Times. Some have even questioned the legality of his actions, but President Obama insisted that he is within his rights. Democrats and advocates for immigration reform have hailed his actions while insisting that more needs to be done to provide protections for those not covered by his plan. The director of the Center for Community Change, Deepak Bhargava, called it a massive breakthrough, while his critics have, according to the New York Times, “described them in equally sweeping terms. ‘This is a constitutional republic, not a banana republic,’ said
Why Accusations Against Bill Cosby Finally Surfaced by Dara Kenigsberg
To date, 20 women have come forward with allegations against Bill Cosby. This may be hard to reconcile, as Cosby is (well, was) one of the most beloved sitcom stars and comedians of all time. “The Cosby Show” ranked number one for five years straight from 1985 to 1990, shattering racial stereotypes. But accused by females sharing similar stories, (many of the claims are centered around being drugged and then raped) it’s hard not to believe that this iconic figure is actually a serial rapist. This is not the first time that rape allegations have been made against Cosby. So why did it take so long for the story to stick? There are three reasons. The first reason is that journalists have been enabling Cosby by keeping it to themselves or by allowing him to give them exclusives about something else. The second reason is that the landscape of that journalism has changed. We now live in a world with social media and a 24/7 news cycle. The third is that the conversation surrounding rape is finally beginning to change. In 2005, Bill Cosby gave an exclusive interview to The National Enquirer in exchange for a promise that the tabloid wouldn’t run a story that was more deleterious regarding sexual assault allegations that had previously been undisclosed.
At the time, Cosby was facing accusations by Andrea Constand, a Temple University staff member who said that she had been drugged and molested by him a year before. The National Enquirer wanted to print a story that they had uncovered about Beth Ferrier, a former model who said she was also drugged and assaulted sexually by Cosby in the mid ‘80s. Cosby was concerned that Ferrier’s story would make Constand’s more credible. According to the New York Times, “The Enquirer described Cosby as ‘furious’ about the allegations. It also discussed accusations made by a woman named Tamara Green, who appeared on the Today show that February and said Mr. Cosby had assaulted her in the early 1970s. ‘Sometimes you try and help people and it backfires on you, and then they try to take advantage of you,’ he said in the article….” The National Enquirer was not the only publication aware of his misconduct. ABC News, People magazine, Philadelphia magazine as well as countless journalists including, David Carr, who did a Q and A with Cosby for the in-flight United Airlines magazine in 2011, Kelefa Sanneh, who wrote a massive profile on Cosby in the New Yorker this past September but only referenced the accusations at the end of the piece, Ta-Nehisi
Coates, who omitted the charges altogether in an extensive piece about him in the Atlantic in 2008 and Mark Whitaker, whose almost 500-page biography of Cosby did not even mention one of the at least four women who had already come forward by 2005 when it was published. These media enablers, according to the New York Times, “all have [their] reasons, but in ignoring these claims, we let down the women who were brave enough to speak out publicly against a powerful entertainer.” However it is not just the journalists who have changed their minds; It is our access to it that has, and the confluence of these two things made the perfect storm. Keep in mind that it was comedian Hannibal Buress that got the ball rolling after performing in Philadelphia in October with a routine that calls out Cosby. “He gets on TV, ‘Pull your pants up black people, I was on TV in the 80’s. I can talk down to you because I had a successful sitcom.’ Yeah, but you rape women, Bill Cosby, so turn the crazy down a couple notches.” Because Buress’s set was recorded, there are clips of it all over the Internet and multiple news sites picked up the story. In this age of social media and instant access to anything and everything, Bill Cosby can no longer hide. According to the Boston Globe, “The Web and Twitter and YouTube have coalesced into a 24/7
free-for - all of chatter, conjecture, audio/ video evidence, links to articles, and a Babel of opinion…and everyone hiding behind the safety of anonymous screen names. It may be that Bill Cosby is finally being held to account….” In understanding why these allegations are finally taking root, we must also consider the broader cultural changes that have taken place. In 1969, Cosby did a stand-up routine, during which he joked about drugging women’s drinks with “Spanish fly.” He got plenty of laughs. Fast-forward 45 years, with the current national conversations about rape on college campuses, changing the consent laws and disputes over the meaning of feminism, imagine him doing that same routine today. According to Gawker.com, “The fact that his accusers recently resurfaced and managed to gain traction can be attributed to handful of relatively new cultural phenomena: The democratizing power of the Internet, which gives marginalized groups space to tell their stories… the slow mainstreaming of the term ‘rape culture’; and a viewing public that is no longer content, or resigned, to overlook such egregious lapses in humanity.”
HAUTE CULTURE
Jessica Blicksilver - Communication Design - I’m an art director at a non-profit that works with children in juvenile delinquent centers in India. Seeing children grown and learn from the organizations work is the absolute best.
24
Gladys Medaglia - Photography - I think people are inherently good and, at times, can choose to think outside of themselves to the wellbeing of others. Especially when love and emotions are involved.
FIT
Ariel Villa - Photography - I believe in altruism to a certain extent. Feeling good after helping someone out doesn’t make you a less selfless person.
STYLE ON 27 Photography by Vicky Mathew
Do you believe altruism exists? Jacki Kicksee - AMC - I feel like altruism exists, but shows up in people in different ways.
Mackenzie Moore - FMM - Altruism definitely exists. I believe there is at least some good in everyone.
Vivian Tam - AMC - I think altruism happens in unexpected bursts. The beauty of humanity is people have the capacity to let go of their own interests for the sake of others.
Enxhi Hyseni - FMM - I believe altruism exists. A good deed is a good deed regardless of the reason behind it.
Vanessa Rodrigues - FMM - I believe altruism exists and creates a ripple effect of generosity through our community.