Riding Back In Style

How This New Age Take on Western Wear is Revolutionizing the Fashion Industry

By Sara Hamilton (Advertising and Marketing Communications ‘24)

If you’ve taken a stroll through the streets of New York on the ever infamous Fashion Avenue recently, you may have been bewildered by the sight of fringe, western belts, feather accessories and the sound of cowboy boots striking the sidewalks. Don’t worry, you’re in the right place, but you might want to invest in a pair of boots while you’re here. From stores to runways to the city streets, the western trend is alive and well, and it won’t be riding off into the sunset anytime soon.

Starting off strong as a wild west contender was Victor Li’s Fall Winter 2021 collection at New York Fashion Week, which as dramatic as it may seem, can only be described as an eccentric urban cowboy extravaganza. His colorful tops and coordinated skirt-blazer combos were blended with western boots and cowboy hats, flawlessly combining traditional western wear with a touch of modern chic.

Notably, Neon Cowboy’s Fall couture line lit up the runway with its floor length skirts and brightly colored cowboy hats, while Isabel Marant’s rural meets urban twist on her all black cowboy boots stole the show.

On the retail spectrum, conventional western wear companies have seen a massive uptick in 2021 profits. According to Forbes, “Boot Barn’s annual sales in fiscal year 2019 were $776.9 million, propelled by 14.6% growth from previous year.” Its revenues surpassed 850 million by year end in March of 2020, higher than projection. Levi’s saw their profits increase by 198% during the first half of 2021, while their western staples, denim jackets and jeans, continue to be a bestseller.

Through the power of online influence, celebrities and public figures routinely endorse and embrace the wild west. In August, Beyoncé launched her collection with Adidas x Ivy Park Rodeo, a popular western wear brand. According to Lyst Insights, less than 48 hours after her clothing drop, searches for keywords, like “cow print,” and “cowboy hats,” jumped over 64%.

Kendall Jenner blew up Instagram this past Summer with an array of posts featuring a rather unusual bikini and cowboy boot pairing. Lily-Rose Depp rocked a light wash pair of daisy dukes and deep purple cowboy boots for an afternoon stroll around New York City and Jennifer Lopez’s wildly western Ralph Lauren look at the 2021 Met Gala earned her nearly three million likes on Instagram.

Designers and runways aside, it’s the high-profile marketing influence that has catalyzed the now thriving western wear industry. Statista indicates that the western wear market value in the US has increased since its initial market value of 71 billion in 2016, and is expected to reach a market value of 99.4 billion by 2023. Can we get a yeehaw?

Rap musician Lil Nas X is notorious for his spunky cowboy attire. But there may be a deeper meaning behind the chaps and hats. Often commended for his openness about being a queer black man in Country music, Lil Nas is unofficially credited with deriving the fashion term “Space Cowboy,” which signifies freedom of expression by reclaiming a culture that has traditionally and historically oppressed him.

His 2020 Grammy Awards look, a Bright pink Versace two-piece complete with color complementary hat, harness and boots, undeniably turned heads. Ultimately, it’s about feeling comfortable enough to express yourself as your own individual.

From runways to retailers, it seems as though western wear is a trend we can all get behind, and the best part is, there’s no set standard. Designers and celebrities alike have proven that no matter your personal style, a touch of the old wild west can be built on to any ensemble.

This new-age take on western fashion has proven its ability to influence an entire generation of fashion gurus, guys and gals, ladies and gents, to rewrite traditional rules and express themselves freely. Cowboy chic is officially the new frontier of Americana fashion.

graphic by Donna Hellberg