VOLUME 47 | ISSUE 6 | MARCH 2015
THE ENTERPRISE ISSUE
MASTHEAD
FIT
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Hermina Sobhraj Editor - in - Chief Dara Kenigsberg Deputy Editor
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Molly Clarke Executive Editor Allison Moran Senior Editor Aaron Valentic Culture Editor Dana Heyward Dara Kenigsberg Managing Editors Dan Nissim Digital Content Manager Art Kelly Millington Art Director Emma Wood Senior Designer Danielle Carcione Dan Nissim Junior Designers Jessica Blicksilver Illustrator Neeraj Jain Vicky Mathew Photographers
ENTERPRISE - AN UNDERTAKING, AN OPPORTUNITY, BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY, SOMETHING THAT REQUIRES EFFORT.
Contributors Mayra Bajana Maria Beneventano Molly Clarke Kaylee Denmead Thais Derjangocyan Nicole DeStefano Nicole Druzhinsky Jordyn Ferriss Marina Herbst Dana Heyward Dara Kenigsberg Jenny Kim Ciara McManus Allison Moran Tara O’Brien Alexa Schmitz Hayden Werp Karen Wu
IN THIS ISSUE, WE’VE SELECTED SOME OF THE INITIATIVES AND ACHIEVEMENTS OF PEOPLE THAT WE FELT NEEDED A LITTLE EXTRA RECOGNITION. WE KNOW CAREER PATHS CAN BE DISHEARTENING. THEY’RE MET WITH SHARP UPS AND DOWNS, PAINFUL REJECTION AND SOMETIMES, FAILURE.
WE’VE WRITTEN THE ARTICLES IN THIS ISSUE, LIKE “HOW PUBLIC SCHOOL MADE THE INDUSTRY LISTEN” ON PAGE 17 AND “THE BUSINESS OF FEEDING: ENTREES MEET ENTREPRENEURS” ON PAGE 25, TO REMIND YOU OF THE REWARDING MOMENTS OF YOUR CAREER PATH; TO THE GOALS YOU’LL EVENTUALLY ACHIEVE. WE HOPE THE NEWS WE’VE CAREFULLY SELECTED WILL INSPIRE YOU AS MUCH AS IT HAS US. UNTIL NEXT MONTH,
BUT WHAT WE OFTEN FORGET ARE OUR MOMENTS OF SUCCESS.
John Simone Faculty Advisor
A FIT STUDENT ASSOCIATION PUBLICATION
ON THE COVER: W27 IS PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER. PLEASE RECYCLE YOUR COPY AFTER READING.
Photographed by Neeraj Jain, Ali Ogris and Chris Lavish trek through SoHo in Brain&Beast, a clothing brand founded by entrepreneurs of Barcelona.
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CONTENTS ON THE BLOCK 4 4 5 6 6 7 7
Beauty Buzz The Sky’s The Limit For Club Half the Sky Dean Frumkin Guests on Podcast A New Master Plan For Campus Lets Talk Vaginas @ FIT’s The Vagina Monologues FIT Yourself into the Fashion Industry Being Bilingual
DEAR INDUSTRY 8 8 9 10 12 12
New Initiatives Show the City’s Faith in Fashion Emphasizing the Design, Not the Name Celebrity - Named Scents ‘Going Bad’ at Retail Election Candidates 2015 Humans of FIT Jewelry Entrepreneur Leaves Finance to Pursue Her Dream
LETTER FROM THE ART DIRECTOR
FEATURE 13 14 14 15 15 16 17 18
NYFW: The Four Brands We Are All Talking About Editors Pick: Fashionest The Retail Sales Race: Online Crushes In - Store Menswear Fashion Week: The Cinderella of Fashion Scratch Helps Launch new Instagram Series Our Very Own Entrepreneurs How Public School Made the Fashion Industry Listen Brain & Beast Editorial
HAUTE CULTURE 22 22 23 24 25
App Review: 3 Game Changing Apps One, Final Voyage: Remembering Leonard Nimoy Independent Bookstores Continue to Strive Book Review: #GirlBoss by Sophia Amoruso Restaurant Review: The Business of Feeding
FIT SPEAKS 27 28 29 30 32
The Thing About Interning Fusion Fashion Show The Code In the Couture: 3d Printing Month In Review: ISIS Style on 27
THE UNIQUE STORIES, STRUGGLES AND SUCCESS OF ENTREPRENEURS AND BUSINESS OWNERS MAKE THESE INDIVIDUALS SO INSPIRING. HOW DID THEY BECOME SO SUCCESSFUL? HOW DID THEY COME UP WITH SOMETHING SO INNOVATIVE? LOOKING UP TO ENTREPRENEURS AND BUSINESS OWNERS WHO HAD THE COURAGE TO START SOMETHING NEW AND TAKE INITIATIVE TO FOLLOW THEIR DREAMS MOTIVATES ME TO START SOMETHING ON MY OWN. AS AN ARTIST, IT CAN BE TOUGH TO PROMOTE YOURSELF AND TAKE RISKS TO FOLLOW YOUR OWN PATH. FREELANCING IS A
w27 is looking for a Social Media Manager to assist our team! If interested, please send us an e-mail with your resume to w27newspaper@gmail.com.
GREAT PLACE TO START, BUT THERE ARE UPS AND DOWNS TO IT. BEING A FREELANCER ENABLES YOU TO HAVE CREATIVE FREEDOM, MAKE YOUR OWN HOURS AND CHARGE CLIENTS AT YOUR OWN RATE. HOWEVER IT IS TOUGH TO MAINTAIN A STEADY INCOME FROM FREELANCE JOBS HERE AND THERE. SURE, IT’S ALWAYS EASY TO FIND A JOB WITH REGULAR HOURS DOING MINDLESS WORK, BUT IF YOU REALLY WANT TO FOLLOW YOUR DREAMS AND CREATE SOMETHING THAT IS UNIQUE AND INNOVATIVE, YOU WILL MAKE IT WORK. YOU HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE - GO FOR IT!
ON THE BLOCK Beauty Buzz:
Indie Beauty Brands Take Over by Jordyn Ferriss
When associating the word “indie” with a certain brand, one would assume that said brand is rather small, unknown and anti - mainstream. Well, various indie beauty brands are shaking off the indie stereotype but generating a large social media presence, specifically on Instagram. With hundreds of thousands of followers, these beauty brands are far from unknown.
Photo courtesy of kittskosmetics.com Unlike most major beauty brands, indie companies have incredibly strong cult followings. Due to the brands’ indie nature, the ability to mass produce thousands of
Photo courtesy of azephyrandhercat.com products is limited, making it more difficult for the consumer to get their hands on it. Devoted buyers will wait up all night to snag the newest release, making the demand for indie products much higher than those from mainstream beauty brands. Many brands, such as Melt Cosmetics (who have nearly nine hundred thousand followers on Instagram), rely on Instagram posts to alert buyers when their most - loved product is back in stock. Essentially, Instagram is an indie beauty
brand’s dream come true. Brands are able to get large amounts of exposure and advertise themselves on the platform virtually for free. Companies also frequently send out press samples to Instagram famous beauty personalities, increasing brand awareness with each post they are featured in. These types of free advertising can make or break an indie company, whose marketing budget may not be as extensive as that of a mainstream cosmetics brand.
indie brands becoming so huge due to social media is at what point does a so called “indie” brand become mainstream? Now an infamous household name, indie makeup company Lime Crime once had humble beginnings in the makeup industry. Now at over one million followers on Instagram, Lime Crime is one of the most coveted indie brands on the market with customer demand rising each day. Regardless of Lime Crime’s popularity, the brand still describes itself as an “independent team.” Is it the fact that the company isn’t affiliated with a major cosmetics company what makes it indie? Or is it the company’s products and overall brand image that play the biggest part? I guess the only true decider such questions are the “indie” brands themselves.
The question one must ask regarding
The Sky’s The Limit For Club Half The Sky Photo courtesy of halftheskyatfit.com
by Alexa Schmitz
MEETS THURSDAYS 1 - 2PM; A642
FIT is a college with a predominantly female student population. And the women here are determined, goal oriented and have dreams so big that they are often intimidating to others. In an industry like fashion and in a school such as FIT, it is important for the community to offer support to one another. This semester, a new club on FIT’s campus called Half The Sky is doing just that. With March being Women’s History Month, there is no better time to spread the word. “We definitely wanted to create a community for girls to empower each other,” Ewelina Rosochowicz said, co - founder of Half The Sky at FIT. She and her fellow co - founder, Nathalie Albersmeyer, were inspired by a documentary called Half The Sky that brought notable figures, such as actress Meg Ryan, to Third World countries to help oppressed women. The documentary led to the development of a mother organization - - also named Half The Sky, which allows those interested to branch
off into smaller groups around the world to bring the ideals and practices of the organization to their community. Half The Sky has a goal to turn oppression into opportunity. To do this, the organization promotes wage equality, spreads awareness of sexual violence and trafficking and encourages women to empower each other instead of competing against one another. The FIT chapter of Half The Sky is specifically aiming to create a sense of unity among women in various New York City colleges. Rosochowicz mentioned that HTS intends to collaborate with Columbia University’s Women Empowerment Club. She feels that peer empowerment is an important aim that needs to be brought to FIT, since students are extremely driven and focused on their own goals. Although Half The Sky is new to FIT, the club has already held three meetings this semester at which they’ve had an impressive turnout. The club meets
on campus every Thursday from 1p.m. to 2p.m. in room A642. The group discusses possible community service opportunities, ways to spread the message of equality and empowerment for women to a larger audience and ideas on how to creatively spark an interest in others to get involved in the movement. “I think discussion is very important and leads to many ideas,” Rosochowicz said. Although she and Albersmeyer founded the club, they strongly encourage equal input and participation from everyone who attends. For those who cannot make the Thursday meetings, the club tries to meet for lunch or coffee once every other week in an effort to foster closer friendships and create new relationships in a welcoming environment. For the rest of the semester the club is in the process of finding a women’s shelter at which to regularly volunteer, organizing clothing drives and, beginning on March 12, there will be various women’s history documentary screenings on Thursdays at noon in room A721. The club is also
working on bringing guest speakers to campus during April to talk about how everyone can help spread this movement even further. Each of the co - founders of Half The Sky at FIT say they are extremely grateful for all of the support they have received since the start of their venture. A number of students and faculty alike have reached out to them, expressing their support and also offering to get involved. HTS is always welcoming new members and fresh ideas and encourages students to communicate with them via e-mail and social media. WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/ HALFTHESKYATFIT INSTAGRAM: @HALFTHESKYFIT TWITTER: @HALFTHESYFIT WWW.HALFTHESKYATFIT.COM
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Dean Frumkin Guests on Podcast; Claims Retailers Now Must Adapt to Smart Consumers by Dara Kenigsberg
The Dean of the Jay and Patty Baker School of Business at FIT, Steven Frumkin, was recently a guest on the podcast, Fashion Is Your Business. Hosted by Marc Raco, who also hosts the podcast, Monkey Radio; Rob Sanchez, and adjunct Professor at Fordham Law and the Chief Strategy Officer at Manufacture New York and Praven Ball, an organizer for Open Sources. The three also produce the podcast, which features news, interviews and commentary about fashion, finance and technology. The interview focused on the growing significance of omni - channel retailing, how technology is changing the landscape of the ways people shop and the fundamentality of networking. He also talked about the impact that his parents and growing up in NYC had on him. Growing up in the late 1950s in Manhattan, his mother was a Special Ed teacher and his father was in insurance. Both of his parents stressed the importance of an education, and his father surrounded himself with smart businesses men. Early on, Dean Frumkin developed a thirst for knowledge because his father’s
friends constantly discussed things he didn’t understand, which made him more eager to learn. His solution was to become his father’s messenger boy. He absorbed every bit of information he could about life as it was back then. This was also how he first learned about the textile industry because that was where he made a lot of his deliveries. When he grew older, his studies and jobs took him across the world. But a native New Yorker always comes back, and in 2012, FIT offered him the position of Dean of the Jay and Patty Baker School of Business. One of his first significant acts as Dean involved putting together a major conference. He felt “we needed to step out and talk about what was happening in the industry.” Omni - channel retailing refers to being able to connect to the consumer on multiple levels and at all points, while maintaining consistency throughout. Consumers are driving this general shift because, when it comes to technology, they are incredibly smart and are thus dictating a smarter retail experience. The convergence of technology in the retail field is another catalyst for this. Online
retailers are beginning to open brick and - mortar stores because they know their customers want an ‘experience.’ But this is only one facet of it. Each and every store is trying to connect with their customers better than the store down the street, but using technology intelligently and truly aligning with your customer across all platforms has become one the biggest struggles. Dean Frumkin strongly feels that the most valuable lesson for students at FIT, not just in their careers, but also connecting to success within the fashion industry, is that you should always be networking. “The networking ability that you have at FIT is just extraordinary. Take an internship, take two internships, put that together with the person to your right or left, with your friends, the faculty, the people they bring in, the projects you work on and you will have a whole network of people and friends in the industry. You will be able to call people and say, I heard you speak in my class and I am really interested in X, Y or Z… that is what students ought to be doing.” But networking isn’t just about how many business cards you accrue, its not just about getting things
Photo courtesy of halftheskyatfit.com
for yourself; it’s about what you can do as a human being for others around you. According to Dean Frumkin, “What I love about fashion is that everybody has their own fashion. Everybody can be creative. Everybody can make a statement.”
ON THE BLOCK
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A New Master Plan For Campus by Molly Clarke
On February 17, the Fashion Institute of Technology’s student body, along with staff, was presented with an updated master plan for the addition of a new building to FIT’s campus. The presentation included pictures and diagrams of the proposed new building, as well as early survey results regarding which elements of FIT needed to be renovated. The results were collected from an online survey for staff and students to partake in. The top survey response was in regard to campus attractiveness, with 81.7% saying it needed renovation, while the second was regarding heating and cooling at 71.4%. There are five main issues that will be addressed in the new master plan. They include: campus interior attractiveness, office/work space quality and quantity, instructional space quantity and variety, student activity space quantity, and lastly, expression of FIT character and spirit. FIT’s current master plan was completed in 2005, and the technology needed on campus has rapidly evolved since then. The culture of students, curriculum and industries have also changed since 2005, and our campus renovations must reflect to meet these changes in society,
as well. The focus in this master plan is for another academic building, which will be located on 28th street, right behind the Feldman Center. The building will contain about 20 new classrooms, which will be the main emphasis of the building. The ground floor will have a lab, named after Bill Blass, that will be very similar to the textile lab already in place in Feldman. The first floor will be opened up so there is an extension to the 27th street building, and the open space in the new building will also contain more display cases. Feldman will also house more display cases. The fifth floor of the building will contain three sections, that will be used for a student lounge and workspace. This space will be wide open and will be a convertible space for a number of events. One of the rooms will be a catwalk - style setup, to hold fashion shows if larger areas of the school are not available. Another element of the master plan is to improve the interior look of FIT as a whole, since it has not been dramatically updated since 2005. One idea tossed around in the master plan is to bring the registrar, bursar, admissions and financial aid offices into one cohesive area. This would make it much easier for students to find answers from multiple
offices in one place, instead of going from building to building. The entrance to the school will also be revamped with the master plan. The goal of updating the entrance to the school is to embody the spirit and ambiance of FIT and its students. FIT is working with Fletcher Thompson Architecture Engineering to create the new master plan. Fletcher Thompson is one of the leading full - service planning, design and consulting firms that provide architectural, engineering, interior design, construction support and building oriented special services. Fletcher Thompson is gathering data and information about what students and faculty feel about the campus. The survey is an integral part of this process and
Photo courtesy of shoparc.com allows members of the FIT community a place to comment on what they feel needs the most improvement. Their say will be taken into consideration when it comes to implementing the master plan. The survey contains 21 questions and gives users the option to freely express their comments. The FIT community is highly encouraged to take the survey, which is available on the Master Plan section of FIT’s website. The next presentation on the updated master plan will be held on April 28, at a location yet to be announced.
Let’s Talk Vaginas @ FIT’s The Vagina Monologues by Ciara McManus
Playwright/Activist Eve Ensler wrote an episodic play called The Vagina Monologues in 1996; since then there have been many productions including our very own here at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Ensler conducted interviews with over 200 women as she began writing her original draft of the monologues almost twenty years ago. The Vagina Monologues is a compilation of the stories told by the 200 interviewed. On the last Friday of February, FIT’s Theater Ensemble participated in the V - Day activist movement where women finally united to chat about the big V. The V in V - Day standing for victory, valentine and last but not least, vagina. Nine beautiful ladies represented FIT well by expressing and raising awareness of perspectives of women across the globe. The V - day movement envisions “a world where women live safely and freely, ” according to V - Day’s website, www.vday. org. The Theater Ensemble’s production offered free entry with the simple
including domestic violence and sex trafficking. The donations were generously offered after students, guests and family members filled the Katie Murphy amphitheater in anticipation, as Beyoncé’s sweet melodies quietly played in the background.
Illustration courtesy of Jessica Blicksilver
request of a donation for the Sanctuary for Families, New York’s leading shelter organization for survivors of gender violence,
Since these same monologues have been and will continue to be performed thousands of times, the play’s outcome relies heavily on its performers’ passion. Our FIT ladies wore black with bright red lipstick that popped from the stage, reminding the audience of the power of spoken word. The monologues throughout the night touched on important issues including sex, love, rape, menstruation, female genital mutilation, masturbation, birth and orgasm. The play began with this introduction from Eve’s script about her initial interviews: “At first women were reluctant to talk. They were a little shy. But once they got going, you couldn’t stop them. Women secretly love to talk about their vaginas. They get very excited, mainly because no one’s ever asked them
before.” This set the mood for the rest of the night: pure excitement. My Angry Vagina is an entertaining tale of the struggles a woman’s vagina goes through during life events such as her monthly cycle, masturbation, and visits to the OB/GYN. A tale that explicitly and honestly explains the reality that sticking dry wads of cotton up their vaginas is a practice women have somehow become accustom to. The crowd vocally agreed and laughed at the hurtful truth. Another crowd favorite was entitled The Woman Who Loved To Make Vaginas Happy. This monologue follows a female sex worker who thrives from pleasuring other women. The actress gave an outstanding vocal demonstration of stereotypical orgasms, a too - good - to - be - true performance. The production was informative and engaging. The audience walked away knowing just a little bit more about vaginas than they knew when they walked in.
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Yourself into the Fashion Industry by Tara O’Brien
Have you been sitting in class, wondering why you have to sit through lecture after lecture and read for hours from textbooks so boring they make an eight hour shift at work sound like fun? Well here’s some good news for you: All majors at FIT lead to the Promised Land - - exciting careers waiting for you on the other side of graduation. At FIT, there are two kinds of majors. Some majors are easily described, while students of the second group of majors can’t define exactly what they are doing. Figuring out career options for these majors can be equally confusing. Hopefully, shedding light on some of these career options will bring clarity to those of you still struggling to figure out where you belong in your industry. Textile Development and Marketing There is a wide variety of opportunities for TDM students in the textile industry. They start at the beginning of the supply chain with textile designers, creating
fabric designs and patterns for woven, knitted and printed materials. If you are interested in science, then a project scientist could be the job for you. In this profession, you will improve existing textiles and generate new ones. There are also careers selecting the right kind of fabric for a garment, managing garment production in factories and buying the raw materials required to manufacture apparel. Textile positions can also be found in the home furnishings and industrial markets. Fashion Merchandising Management There is a huge misconception within the FMM major that a retail buyer is the only career you can fall into. But there are many other options that allow you to be visual and creative while fueling your love of shopping. Wholesalers work with different stores around the country and sell them products that will work well with their customer base. They act as a middle - man and present buyers with products they think will sell the best in their
stores. Product developers create designs and manage them through all stages of production in a company. They select the right trimmings and details that will make a product attractive while keeping the cost low. There are even more options in store management, e - commerce and entrepreneurship. Production Management Students in either the AAS or BS Production Management program have a bright future ahead of them in managing a supply chain. The careers in this field go beyond fashion. Toys, car interiors and medical supplies all need someone to watch over their production to ensure a quality product. Careers include production coordinators and product engineers who manage the development and sourcing of product to make garments. There also careers available as logistics or distribution managers and directors of manufacturing. All of these careers are important to the manufacturing of products and provide the opportunity to travel.
International Trade and Marketing In this bachelor program, students dive into the complex global marketplace, including the financial, legal, logistical and cultural aspects of importing and exporting. If you love travel and foreign cultures, managing international accounts and coordinating international production could be in your future. You can also be an international buyer and go experience the wonders of various countries, finding the right products for your company. If you are one of those who enjoys math, a career in financial analysis and international credit could be exactly where you belong. Environmental and social compliance inspectors make sure foreign manufacturers maintain a company’s social responsibility standards. In the ITM program, you can land a job anywhere from Tiffany and Co. to Theory to the U.S Department of Commerce.
Being Bilingual by Kaylee Denmead
As a study abroad student, I wait for my cappuccino in a bar (Italian word for café… definitely confusing upon arrival) that is filled with people speaking Italian. I can’t say more than a few lines to my barista and he is happily talking to the men and women who wait beside me. Disheartening? Slightly. To travel and work in the fashion industry is to work with people of other cultures. The fashion industry is becoming increasingly globalized. Brands are sold in hundreds of countries, garments are created in factories all over the world and traveling is often part of a job description. What does this mean for us as Fashion Institute of Technology students? When it comes to other cultures, it’s important to learn as much as you can. Being bilingual may not be realistic for everyone, especially since learning all the ins and outs of a language can take many years. Knowledge about other cultures is important. It’s easy to disrespect someone when you have no idea what his or her culture entails. When asking Professor Christine Pomeranz, chair of
the International Trade and Marketing program at FIT her opinion on being bilingual, she mentions the importance of “distinguishing the nuances of the words and expressions used.” Mistakes can be made easily at all levels of business when two languages and cultures are used. Pomeranz also states, “It is key to note the traditional differences between western and eastern cultures, though through modern transportation and technology, these cultures seem to be somewhat converging.” As the world becomes more globalized, borders blur, though cultures still exist and learning how to appropriately navigate another culture is of utmost importance. ITM isn’t the only major that deals with culturally diverse people and places. Home Products chair, Professor Ingrid Johnson suggests taking as many social science classes as possible while at FIT to gain a fuller understanding of the world we will be working in. She says, “The international language of business is still money and as of today, that is US dollars.” Money aside, Emily Green, an FIT Home Products alum works for Walmart under the Farberware brand and she told me
her team is frequently sent to China to negotiate prices. They develop products for China, Canada and Brazil, with plans to expand. Her suggestion for the future graduating classes? Being open to traveling overseas and learning about foreign consumer markets. Why so many suggestions? It may not seem important now, but it will be later on. I know I spend a decent amount of time hoping I won’t embarrass myself at school, work, interning...just about all aspects of daily life if we’re being honest. It’s a sure way to embarrass yourself when you are working with another culture and have no idea how to speak to or address your peers. In Italy, its customary to kiss one cheek and then the other when you greet someone. Yeah, yeah, you probably knew that from movies already, right? When I tell you that everyone from my friends, to my professors, to my barista, greets me with a kiss on each cheek, it’s not an understatement. Imagine going in for a cheek with the FIT Starbucks guy… yep, not a good suggestion. It’s also rude if you don’t greet the barista and really,
the whole bar (remember, think café, not alcohol) with a big ol’ “buongiorno” in the morning. Italians are friendly…they expect to be happily greeted, thanked and said goodbye to. I dare you to get in the Starbucks line on Monday and loudly greet everyone with a Good Morning, then let me know who gives you the dirtiest look afterwards. While a coffee shop is the just the most basic of examples, its still important to recognize that the differences don’t have to be big to exist. Professor Jeffrey Silberman, chair of the Textile Development and Marketing department said, “Speaking another language can only enable you if you understand true thinking in that language and that is achieved only by understanding the culture that motivates that thinking.” So, if bilingual seems like a bit of a reach, start with an easy Google search about the culture you’re working with. If that fails, don’t fret. I’ve made it seven months in Italy with smiles and hand gestures.
DEAR INDUSTRY New Initiatives Show the City’s Faith in Fashion by Tara O’Brien
Earlier this month, Mayor DeBlasio announced a score of new fashion initiatives and pledged to triple New York City’s investment in the fashion industry from $5 million to $15 million. The initiatives were fuelled by the mayor’s appreciation for the fashion industry and everything it does for the city. According to Women’s Wear Daily, the industry annually generates more than $18 billion in retail sales, pays $11 billion in wages and collects $2 billion in tax revenue.
“THE CITY OF NEW YORK IS TRIPLING OUR INVESTMENT IN FASHION INITIATIVES.” At the kickoff of Made in New York Fashion Week, the mayor unveiled the initiatives, focusing on all stages of the production cycle: from the idea’s inception, to manufacturing to the finished
product. DeBlasio said, “We want to give more opportunity [to] people who haven’t had economic chances, and we want it to be all over the five boroughs. When you believe in something, you invest in it, and the city of New York is tripling our investment in fashion initiatives.” Celebrities, designers and bloggers appeared at the event including Diane von Furstenberg and the President of FIT, Joyce Brown. The $15 million in initiatives include public - private programs to strengthen the city’s design and manufacturing sectors. The first $5 million will be dedicated to a two - year ad campaign, that will begin this year, showcasing the city’s fashion companies. A new website, madeinnyfashion.nyc, has been created to promote local designers and manufacturers. This website highlights products made in NYC while providing members of the fashion industry with news, resources and information about events. “For the mayor, [these programs] are more about putting the glitz and the glamour of the fashion industry closer to real people, to create jobs, the ability to come to New York, go to FIT, and start your own business,” Deputy Mayor Alicia Glen said at the event.
Another $5 million will be invested in manufacturing programs to enhance local production facilities and help these facilities implement the latest technologies and training programs for their employees. A new annual Production Summit will be held to come up with innovative solutions for problems facing the industry. It will focus on electronic platforms that allow designers to connect with local production facilities. $4 million will be set aside for providing space at trade shows as well as pop - up shops and partnerships to designers throughout the five boroughs. The city will also develop retail locations that are fully branded as “Made in NY” experiences. These locations will be in kiosks at Grand Central Terminal and within flea markets occurring throughout the year. In each of these retail spaces, products made by New York City designers will be displayed which will help the entire Made in NY program gain exposure. In late 2015 or early 2016, the first ever award program for Made in NY designers will be held. These awards will recognize designers who have shown exceptional
Photo courtesy of observer.com promise and potential. Lastly, $1 million will be dedicated to a scholarship program that will provide students the opportunities to attend New York City educational institutions and study fashion - related majors. The program will also sponsor internships that give students exposure in the fashion industry and the opportunity to learn from major fashion companies. The CEO of the CFDA stated, “the execution of [the initiatives] and [their] impact will be based on how much everyone puts into it. As an organization, CFDA is committed to supporting the mayor on those initiatives.”
Emphasizing the Design, Not the Name by Marina Herbst
In the fashion industry it used to be one key element to have a star designer within the brand, but it has been a few years now that things started to change. Yves, Oscar, Valentino, John, Alexander, we could do a list with hundreds of designers whose name mattered as much as their designs, but nowadays, those making history are not single individuals but collective design teams. Creative collaboration apparently, is the new black.
Photo courtesy of zimbio.com Some may say it started with Maison, where its founder, and long gone designer, Martin Margiela focused the brand on the complexity and meaning of each of its clothing rather than himself. Such was the level of anonymity the Belgian designer had, that WWD gave him the
title of “Fashion’s mystery man.” The way the Maison has always worked as a collective group rather than focusing on the star - designer, resulted in emphasizing the importance of each design even more. Martin Margiela’s attitude towards anonymity may have been a source of inspiration for most of the young designers that are now making history in the fashion world.
In an interview The New York Times did to Christopher Peters, designer behind the brand Creatures of the Wind and much - loved soul by Vogue and the Council of Fashion Designers of America, said he doesn’t care that you haven’t learned his name or that of his partner, Shane Gabier. Actually, the two gentlemen may prefer that you not bother. “Being anonymous has a nice appeal to it,” Mr. Peters said. During the last “There’s something New York Fashion really rad about Week, some of the it.” That statemost acclaimed ment has come to brands were the be absolutely true. ones whose designOne of the things ers are taking shelwe learned from all ter beneath names the craziness that is that obscure their Photo courtesy of vogue.com NYFW is that being own. Creatures anonymous is a of the Wind, Hood by Air, Public School huge trend this season. and TOME are some great examples. Most buyers and editors were running from The designers we all know and love will one show to another in the horrendous still have the relevance and importance February weather, even if that meant wadin the fashion industry as they have been ing curbside slush ponds, because no one having. Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Calvin wanted to miss the chance of seeing what Klein, Diane Von Furstenberg and many these semi - anonymous young crowd of more have done history both as designers designers had to say. but also as celebrities. They started their careers in an era were going to Studio
54 and being part of the IT crowd helped build your company. Long gone are those days (or nights) and the Photo courtesy of zimbio.com city has traded champagne and after parties for innovation and collective design teams. The younger generation grew up watching all these amazing designers end their careers –or even lives - get dramatically destroyed due to exposure, such as John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, and as Jennifer Minniti, the chairwoman of the fashion department at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn put it, “They’re really not enamored of it.” This new generation of designers will not be known for having their initials made into logos but they will definitely be coined as the generation who de - emphasized the brand and designer name, and emphasized the design.
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MARCH 2015
Celebrity - Named Scents ‘Going Bad’ at Retail by Dana Heyward
Coco Chanel once declared, “A woman who doesn’t wear perfume has no future.” While this may seem like an overstatement, there’s no denying that fragrances play a huge role in our everyday lives. The U.S. alone makes up $5.2 billion of a $30 billion industry. But with growth comes the problem of olfactory overload. In 2012, there were approximately 1,400 fragrances launched worldwide. Add those to countless scents already on the market and it’s no wonder that consumers are bewildered. For both the brands and customers, the market has become oversaturated. Value and brand equity has diminished as a result because mass - market fragrances have become a banality, and as more and more celebrities put their names on cheap perfumes, the prestige factor has evaporated. Sorry all you ‘Beliebers’ and ‘Swifties,’ your choice of scent is causing a bit of a stink at retail counters. But now it seems the answer to this pungent dilemma lies in niche fragrances— those somewhat more exclusive scents made and sold in smaller quantities. Although other sectors of the industry had flat or declining sales this past year, niche and artisanal scents grew an estimated 10% in market share.
Illustration by Jessica Blicksilver There are some celebrity fragrances that have managed to become immune to the downturn in sales. Britney Spears, Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé and Paris Hilton have some of the most successful fragrances. Even former New York Yankee Derek Jeter has a cologne, and it was the second highest selling celebrity fragrance last year. Boy Band One Direction’s debut scent Our Moment is the fastest selling of all time, even outselling high - end fragrances such as Miss Dior and Chanel No. 5 as of last Christmas. Nicki Minaj partnered with HSN to release an exclusive scent for her fragrance collection. What was supposed to be a one - day only event was extended to two because of an overwhelming number of purchases and online chatter. The first day Minaj sold all 9,000 units and followed it up by selling 16,000 the second day, making a total of $1.4 million in two days, reports socialfresh.com. Jason Gere, a consumer product analyst at KeyBanc Capital Markets told the New York Times, “There’s this attraction to wearing the same things that movie stars wear or singers. There’s just this natural aspiration to be like somebody else.”
Professor Bonofiglio, Head of the Cosmetics and Fragrances Department at F.I.T., told W27, “Celebrity fragrances started following our great love of celebrity. You see it everywhere with People and Us magazines. Everyone wants a piece of them. And because fragrance is affordable, you can own a piece of that celebrity and have a personal relationship with that celebrity at the same time. What makes them do well is the celebrities themselves, that they are involved with it, that they use social media and that they don’t do anything stupid.” Unfortunately for Elizabeth Arden, Justin Bieber did just that. In 2014, the company reported a 28.4% drop in their fourth quarter sales of fragrances - the largest decline they have ever had. Elizabeth Arden attributed it to Justin Bieber’s The Key and Taylor Swift’s Wonderstruck’s weak sales. Elizabeth Arden Chairmen and CEO Scott Beattie told the FinancialPost.com that “customers’ lack of interest in smelling like the youthful pop stars took him by surprise,” and “while we anticipated some decline in sales in our celebrity brands, we didn’t anticipate the extent of the decline we experienced.” But these two fragrances are only a small piece of the larger puzzle.
Consumers have started to grow bored because so many of the fragrances out there are so similar, and they are not as esteemed as they used to be. The confluence of these events, along with changes in our cultural ethos has set the stage for niche fragrances to do increasingly well. According to Perfumer and Flavorist Magazine, “The need for uniqueness, signature and higher - quality ‘juice’ provided a perfect entrée to the landscape for the ultra - prestige fragrance genres of ‘niche’ and ‘artisanal’ scents.” Also, older, more sophisticated shoppers don’t want to smell like pop stars and with disposable incomes, they can afford to spend $100 or $200 on a niche fragrance. Professor Bonofiglio explains, “People want to be individuals and because niche fragrances target very narrow markets, people think they are specifically made for them. Also, because niche fragrances have a higher price point than celebrity fragrances, the quality is usually better. But I think it is more about the fact that people want to be seen as individuals and don’t want to be wearing what anyone else is.”
“THE U.S. ALONE MAKES UP $5.2 BILLION OF A $30 BILLION INDUSTRY. WITH GROWTH COMES THE PROBLEM OF OLFACTORY OVERLOAD.”
Celebrity fragrances are sold in retailers like Wal - Mart and Kohl’s, not high - end department stores; and their target customer is budget - conscious either because they haven’t recovered from the recession or they are too young to buy what they want. According to Euromonitor.com, “Celebrity fragrances have slowly been losing popularity, as tweens and teens continue to like celebrity scents, but have less disposable income to spend on fragrances, and as unemployment remains amongst the youth population.” In addition, the fragrance market has become over - saturated. In 1993, there were six celebrity fragrances, in 2003, there were 11 and in 2012, there were 85. There has also been a surge in the use of scents outside the realm of fragrances. Products such as fabric softeners, air fresheners and multi - purpose cleaners have, according to Euromonitor.com, “led fragrances to be more commoditized. As a result, fragrances have lost their mystique and have become less ‘special.’ With more than 100 new launches of fragrances a year, the glut of fragrances in the marketplace has also created consumer confusion. The saturated environment in fragrances has arguably contributed to consumer confusion and apathy, making it very difficult for a brand to stand out.”
Niche fragrances differ from traditional and celebrity scents by focusing more on originality of ingredients than on packaging. They usually contain a higher concentration of perfume extracts which makes them last longer. Ruth Sutcliffe, Creative Fragrance Designer of Ruth Sutcliffe Consulting, told W27, “Niche or artisanal fragrances offer quality formulas with often rare and very expensive ingredients, high quality but simple packaging and very often, a very interesting and unique story within the concept. Consumers are also curious about the perfumers behind the creation, which is exemplified through what designer Frederic Malle has presented to the marketplace.”
Photo courtesy of countrymusicislove.com who has his own boutique near Place Vendome in Paris, has created scents for Rick Owens, Ellie Saab and Jean Paul Gaultier. According to CNBC.com, “Chanel and Hermes give their ‘noses’ carte blanche to create exclusives and try out new ingredients. These perfumes, sold in a limited number of stores, are more a way to regain the exclusive image these brands lost by being too widely distributed than to make money….Exclusives help put some of the dream back into the bottle….” Estee Lauder, whose business dropped eight percent over Christmas, is also hoping to capitalize on this trend and regain market share. The cosmetics giant recently bought niche fragrance companies Le Labo and Edition de Parfums Frederic Malle. Even with the growth in popularity of niche fragrances, overall sales for the past two years have been dismal. According to Ms. Sutcliffe, “I believe our industry is struggling now because perfume is competing with other products that we never experienced before: technology, electronics and new experiences….The saturation of the marketplace has also given rise to boredom and confusion among other ‘illnesses’ that we see, such as a homogeneous landscape due to over - testing. I believe we can bring consumers back to buying fragrance when we realize that we need to give them aspirational fragrances as we did before. We should be creating fragrances that inspire and connect the consumer back to emotion, and be giving them quality formulations again.” Yet another timeless remark that the iconic 20th century designer Chanel made was, “Success is often achieved by those who don’t know that failure is inevitable.”
“WE SHOULD BE CREATING FRAGRANCES THAT INSPIRE AND CONNECT THE CONSUMER To stay in line with this trend, high - end BACK TO brands have started hiring perfumers EMOTION” to develop exclusive or limited edition scents. And many of these developers or ‘noses’ as they are known, are celebrities in their own right. Hermes went to great lengths to employ some of the noses that work for Frederic Malle. The brand also offers single - note, unisex fragrances according to theme, each chosen by their perfumer, Jean - Claude Ellena. Francis Kurkdjian,
DEAR INDUSTRY
FIT
10
Election Candidates 2015 Hi! My name is Ashley Lake and I am an Advertising and Marketing Communications student currently in my 4th semester. I was born and raised in the suburbs of Philadelphia. I am running for the position of Coordinator of Campus Day Events. I am truly passionate about this school and believe that enrolling as a student here at FIT is something to celebrate. I feel that my enthusiasm combined with my event planning experience will assist me in coordinating and executing successful events on behalf of the FIT Student Association for FIT students.
I am Ashlie Major, a 6th semester Textile Development and Marketing major and Long Island native running for Director of Student of Organizations. As the current Co President of Creative Movement, I know what it takes to effectively lead a group of team members in a creative environment. It is imperative that we create an atmosphere where students are allowed to grow and contribute ideas. This is what I plan to do with FIT’s clubs and organizations. Help improve your school experience by electing me as your Director of Student Organizations!
My name is Vanessa Acero and I am between my second and third semester of the Fashion Design AAS program at FIT. I was born in Colombia but I have been living in the United States for about 9 years now. I have always been very passionate about fashion and fitness, and for this reason I applied to the program and also became a Certified Personal trainer and online fitness Coach about 2 years ago. I am currently running for Coordinator of Athletics and Wellness because I believe that good health is the basis for being able to achieve many great goals in life, therefore I want to promote this idea among students at FIT. I think that as students, we spend so much time immersed in our projects and homework that sometimes we forget to eat well and take care of our bodies through exercise. I would like to encourage all students to take good care of themselves by eating wholesome and healthy meals, joining one of the sports teams, taking a fitness class, or going to the FIT gym, and also making use of the wellness and counseling services offered at the college to help them manage their stress levels and live a more balanced, healthy life.
Hi! My name is Valeria Valencia. I’m a 6th semester Fashion Merchandising Management student originally from Colombia. I am running for Coordinator of Commuter Affairs because I would love to improve several things for commuters at FIT. I have been part of Student Sssociation at another school so I know the responsibility it takes to be elected for a position. I love FIT and being part of FIT Student Association will allow me to make FIT even better. Being a commuter student is not easy, and my job is to make it easier if elected.
Hi! My name is Scott P. Girvan, and I am happy to call Cape Cod, MA my home! I am currently in the second semester of my freshman year, earning a degree in Production Management: Fashion and Related Industries. I am running for the position of Director of Student Advocacy on the FIT Student Association Executive Board for the 2015 - 2016 academic year. I desire to be a leader for the student body, and to allow students to have a real voice and a known presence in the FIT community. I hope to have a deeper connection and a personal association with students, allowing myself to gain a thorough understanding of their likes, dislikes, wants and needs. Every student has thoughts and opinions regarding the current condition of the school, and every outlook should be heard and addressed. This way, any improvements that need to be made, can be made. I strongly care about the wellbeing of the entire student body, and I want the students of FIT to have the best possible experience during their time here.
Hi! My name is Shailee Patel and I am a second semester Fashion Merchandising Major. I was born in India but I was primarily raised in the Canada and United States. I am running as Director of Finance because I want to challenge myself and be involved in a closely knit community. The Student Association offers members a chance to make a change and I would like to be a part of that. Moreover, I have experience managing my personal finances with Excel and analyzing sales from my retail job. Money management is something I do naturally. Therefore, Director of Finance is a fitting position. My name is Julia Shoop, I am an Advertising and Marketing Communications major, and I grew up in Boston, Massachusetts. This is my second year running for a position on the FIT Student Association. I am currently the Ticket Coordinator and will be running for Vice President for the coming year. I have learned a lot from serving this year on the programming board and hope to grow my leadership skills next year on the executive board. I think I would make a great Vice President because I work well with others, have previous leadership experience, and work especially hard for the things I believe in. I believe in the importance and power of the student voice, and hope to make that heard during my time in office serving beside the President. Vote Julia Shoop for VP!
My name is Caitlin DiGangi and I am an international trade and marketing major here at The Fashion Institute of Technology. I am in my first semester of my junior year; however, this is my first semester at FIT. I studied at Quinnipiac University for my freshman year of college and completed my associate’s degree in Fashion Buying and Merchandising from Nassau Community College. I am from Long Island, New York, just outside of New York City. I am running for the position of Coordinator of Commuter Affairs. Although I do live on campus, I am still very close to home and travel to Long Island often. I am confident that I would I would make a great Coordinator of Commuter Affairs because I understand the commute and would be able to act as liaison between campus life and commuter affairs. Hey Besties! My name is Sharom “Sunshine” Williams and I am from New Jersey. I’m a junior here at FIT majoring in Advertising Marketing Communications, and I am running for Coordinator Off Campus Events. I am running for this position because I am very creative and outgoing individual and I have a lot of ideas on events that will make the students actually enjoy while being off the premises of FIT. One of the main reasons why I want to run for Coordinator of Off Campus Events is because I want to see more diverse events around the school. I want to provide awesome opportunities for the students to experience some great trips around the tri - state area. I believe that being diverse is great way to satisfy each and every part of the student body by giving them more options to chose from each month. Essentially, I just want to add little sunshine into the student's lives once again and make the 2015 - 2016 school year a year to remember! Jessica Indio Born and raised in southern New Jersey, I uprooted and came to New York to study my major of Fashion Merchandising Management at our own FIT. In the midst of my fifth semester I have taken the steps towards serving my student community by submitting to take on the role as a Treasurer for FIT’s Student Association. I so strongly aspire to be a part of this collaborative group of peers tasked with representing the interests of their fellow student body. Willing to dedicate my time and abilities to fulfill this role, I intend to be an involved member of this committee. As a continuing participant of the MAO system, which emphasizes scholarship, service, style, and success, I plan on bringing these values with me in assisting this college to convey great experiences to the FIT community.
My name is Christopher Wallace and I hope to continue to serve you as the President of the FIT Student Association. I am a Junior and recipient of the Bakers Scholarship who is currently studying Production Management while minoring in Sustainability and Ethics. For the past year, I have had the joy of serving as the president of the FIT Student Association. In my time in office I have organized the execution of FIT’s first major entertainment showcase and brought MTV’s Girl Code to campus. My team and I have also lead the rejuvenation of the FIT Student Association’s governmental structure and have overseen the rewriting of our constitution. Prior to being elected, I served as president of the Theatre Ensemble where I worked with my executive board to rebuild the club. Together we succeeded in producing several well - received student run shows. I want to continue in my role as Student Body President because my previous experience in this post has helped me see what can be done to improve our student government. My mission remains to do just that and so I humbly ask for the opportunity to further serve you. I want to hear issues that you students face and work to help fix them. I’m enthusiastic, experienced and ready to hit the ground running to ensure a more successful year. Please support me with your vote for President of the FIT Student Association and together we can make strides to make FIT an even more amazing place. A vote for me is a vote for passion, enthusiasm, positivity and experience! My name is Nicole Naim, I am from Mexico City, and I am a second - semester Production Management Major, and an aspiring Economics Minor. I am running for the position of Coordinator of Cultural Events because as an international student and possessor of two different cultures myself (Mexican by birth, and Lebanese by blood), I have been raised knowing and valuing first handedly diversity and cultural intertwining. Thus, appreciating culture and its effects has always been a critical part of my life, and something I am very passionate about. If given the opportunity, I would strive to make FIT a strong and connected place where every culture is given a voice. FIT possesses a rich and powerful student body, conformed by creative, visionary, diverse, hard - working people. We are faced with a world filled with violence, injustice and inequality. I want to make a FIT a place where students can come together to celebrate their cultures and learn from one another, but also make it a place where we offer support and assistance to any pertaining global crisis. Finally, if given the chance, I would love to work towards making FIT the house of a myriad of cultures, all living and co existing under the same roof.
11
W27
My name is Leticia Campos. I am currently a junior, on my 6th semester pursuing my Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion Merchandising Management. I am originally from Naugatuck, CT, but am now living in Brooklyn. I am running for the position of Director of Communications with hopes of positively and enthusiastically representing the students at the Fashion Institute of Technology through the college website and social media outlets. I also intend to better and fully understand my schoolmates, their needs/ wants, likes/dislikes as well as their individuality/diversity in order to best communicate for them and through them on social media. My name is Marvin Sanford from Buffalo, New York and I am running for FIT Student Association President. I am currently in my sixth semester at FIT studying Fashion Merchandising Management, with a specialization in Product Development. Since I stepped foot on the FIT campus I’ve immersed myself in everything that FIT had to offer. I have served numerous leadership positions including President, Vice President and Treasurer of the Merchandising Society, Vice President of the Residence Hall Community Council, Brand Management Coordinator for Student Ambassadors, Human Resources Manager for the Style Shop at FIT, and a Student Tour Guide. In 2013 - 14, the FIT Student Association awarded me the President’s Award for my passion and dedication to the Merchandising Society, which also won Club of the Year in the same year. I was also a recipient of the Black Retail Action Group (BRAG) scholarship in 2012. I have represented FIT with excellence in the corporate realm though internships at Saturday Night Live, Tory Burch, New Era Caps, Chico’s FAS, and the Wendy Williams Show. In addition, I have also volunteered my time with the National Arts Club, Children’s Cancer and Blood Foundation, and the National Down Syndrome Society. I am running for Student Association President because I am a dedicated campus leader with a unique perspective and a wealth of experience. I am committed to empowering students by building relationships and collaborations among students, the FIT community, and corporate partners. As President of the FIT Student Association, I will be a voice for the students and will continue to make FIT “A Place Where Creativity Gets Down to Business.”
My name is Lauren Sitterly. I am a sixth semester Advertising Design major. I grew up in Albany, New York. I am running for the position of the Coordinator of Graphic Design because enjoy graphic design and I have a multitude of experience in graphic design work, including designing posters. I currently serve as the Public Relations Coordinator of Residence Hall Community Council (RHCC), where I design all of the promotional materials for RHCC events including the campus wide block party. I have designed posters for other on campus events such as FIT Theatre’s production of “All This Intimacy”, FIT DRAG (2015) and the Town Hall with Dr. Brown as well as other posters and promotional materials for other on campus events. I am also very involved on campus, serving as the Vice President of Information Technology on FIT Student Association and the Event Coordinator of FIT in LGBTQ. Because of these reasons, I feel that I am well qualified for the position of Coordinator of Graphic Design on FIT Student Association. My name is Halle Epstein. I’m an International Trade and Marketing for the Fashion Industries major, and I’m currently in my 6th semester in college. I am from Commack, which is on Long Island all the way out east in Suffolk County. I’m choosing to run for the Coordinator of Campus Evening Events because I believe it would be an excellent way to not only get involved, but it would a great way to take the ideas I come up with throughout my day and finally put them into action. I have what it takes to work with the students and not only use my ideas but I would let the student body help come up with ideas of events that we can make happen. It would be a good strategy because we don’t go to a normal college and have that typical college campus, we live in the middle of one of the greatest and biggest cities in the world and there is always somewhere to be but when it comes to FIT we are all here for one thing which is success. With this current semester being my first one at FIT, I feel it’s so important to be involved. Its hard coming to a new school and not knowing many people, by being apart of the student association its an amazing way to meet so many great people who have similar interests as I do. I hope we have the pleasure of all working together.
Hey FIT. My name is Larry Torres and I am in my last semester of Computer animation BFA, about to go into my 3rd Degree AAS in Film Media. I am running to be your next Vice President of the FIT Student Association. I serve as the current VP of Athletics and Wellness, and I served my sophomore year as the VP of Commuter Affairs. In between serving on Student Government I have served on 5 different Executive boards of five different clubs – always being an advocate for the student body. Why choose me for Vice President? FIT is Large Campus with a strong diverse student body, and the main goal for the Student Government is to be here for the students. I want to focus on the concerns, ideas and different issues of the student body. It is all about providing forums for the student body to voice their concerns, and about providing the events the students want on campus. It is not about me or any other candidate – it’s about making sure that the student body’s voice is always expressed and heard. What I promise is to be your voice and always listen to the concerns of the student body. When you vote March 16th - 23rd, remember to vote Larry Torres for Vice President. Hi, my name is Madeline Maciagiewicz. I am an AMC major and it is my second semester here at FIT. I was born in New Jersey, and I lived in Poland for half of my life. I am running for Director of Communications for the 2015 - 2016 academic year. I would like to have a greater influence in what happens at FIT. Because I have lived abroad, I have been exposed to many cultures, forming my ability to communicate well with people of all backgrounds. I have a keen eye for detail. I am always generating new ideas to pursue, while also being open to the suggestions of others. In the 2015 - 2016 year, I would like students to be more involved with school events and activities. This will be made possible by implementing stronger advertising and awareness methods, including social media, frequent e-mails, and flyers posted around campus. Through various forms of communication, I will build strong connections between the student body, Student Association, and the FIT administration. At FIT, I have noticed that many students develop “tunnel vision,” focusing on school work and classes, and overlooking the wonderful clubs and programs FIT has to offer. As the Director of Communications, I, Madeline Maciagiewicz, will help promote these opportunities.
MARCH 2015
I'm Emerald Reilly and I'm running for Manager of the Game Room. I'm a second semester Jewelry Design student. I'm from a big family in Pennsylvania. Growing up we've planned many of game nights. I really want to continue this tradition with my FIT family. When seeking signatures for my petition I found many students didn't know the 7th floor game room existed. If elected I intend to make the game room more recognized through flyers and events. Discussing my candidacy with fellow students they recommended game room events that the students would like to see happen. Events such as karaoke, poker night, or a dungeons and dragons tournament; while this is a diverse group these were recommended by more than one student. If elected I'll do my best to create intriguing events and a relaxing environment for the game room. Hello my fellow classmates! My name is Jessica Accardi. To start off I am a Fashion Merchandising Management student with a minor in Mathematics currently in my sixth semester. Some of you might have seen me around school in my current positions as the Executive Treasurer of the Student Association, a Senior Resident’s Assistant in Coed Hall and also the Training and Recruitment Coordinator of the Student Ambassadors. Over my last three years at FIT I have been heavily involved on campus in implementing change for the students. For example I spearheaded the High Five Campaign to raise the Student Activities Fees in order to have more money for bigger events, spearheaded Commuter Week to show appreciation for our commuter students, chaired the Student Association Budget Committee which decreased initial allocations to start this year with double the amount of money as last year, and sat on the Student Faculty Corporation as Assistant Treasurer to insure student representation in school wide budgets. I am running for Student Association President this year. I would love to be able to take my experiences from the last two years on the Executive Board and make a board that is more efficient and effective next year. We are only as strong as our weakest member so I would focus on collaboration on new initiatives between board members, student council, clubs and students. I can promise to not do what has been done before but to do what is needed and necessary now. A vote for me is a vote for us! I will be the voice of 10,000 students not just one! It will truly be my honor to serve as the 2015 - 2016 Student Association President. Thank you for reading :)
Voting opens Monday, March 16th!
DEAR INDUSTRY
FIT
12
Humans of FIT by Tara O’Brien
“I WANT TO TAKE CARE OF MY FAMILY.”
Natalie Fashion Merchandising Management Major What are you goals?
Angelina Textile Development and Marketing Major
My goals in life are to be successful, which includes being happy. I want to first intern at Alexander Wang and then hopefully get a position there. I would also like to move to Europe and work for Inditex, Zara’s parent company. Although I know that they exploit their workers from some articles I’ve read, I think the way their company is structured is very impressive. Fast fashion retailers are really strong right now, even though they can crash at any moment.
What do you want to do? I want to take care of my family. We don’t come from a really rich background and mom sacrificed a lot so I could go to college so I want to be able to take care of her and repay her. What is something she sacrificed for you? When I was younger and we lived in the Bronx and I said I was hungry because I didn’t understand we barely had food, she would give up her food so I could Photo courtesy of Tara O”Brien eat and not go to bed hungry.
If you could create one thing in the fashion industry what would it be? Definitely 3D displays or something like that. If the store is closed and I’m passing by and like a products in the window I can just hit a button and see how it looks up close or even look at the tag to see what it’s made of. That way if I like the products, I can come back when the store is open and buy it.
“MY GOALS IN LIFE ARE TO BE SUCCESSFUL, WHICH INCLUDES BEING HAPPY.”
If you had the power to change the fashion industry or make it better in any way what would you do? I would probably add some things to runway shows, like more diversity of models. I am tired of seeing my race walk down. Yeah that’s great, but what about people from Africa where their skin is so beautiful? Or my friend who has patches on her skin that are all different colors; that’s amazing. How about we have models like that or models that aren’t as skinny because you are catering to the average woman and people do not always fit into the cookie cutter image, how about people make clothes for the actual consumer?
Jewelry Entrepreneur Leaves Finance to Pursue Her Dream by Karen Wu
In this crowded but cozy coffee shop I waited for her by the window, watching people quickly walk towards subways and bus stations. It was 20 degrees out and it was rush hour on a Friday. Eventually in walked a woman with a warm tan, jet black hair and mesmerizing black eyes. She radiated a certain feminine style, wearing a tweed sweater and dainty earrings that made her oversized bracelets even more noticeable. As she approached, I couldn’t help but notice how soft and calm she was, a stark contrast to the hustle around us.
“I knew what I had to do,” she continued. “I could be effective at the job but I didn’t like what I was doing and that affects other dimensions of your life and slowly I was just feeling down.” Feeling unfulfilled, Nadimi decided to go to Thunderbird, Arizona to get her MBA. That’s when her life started turning around.
Negar Nadimi’s smooth voice is well matched to her mannerisms, all of which are surprising for someone who spent almost two decades doing corporate work in the Financial District. But that is all behind her now. Nadimi sat down with me to share how an international journey led her to realizing her true potential and starting her own jewelry brand, Ragen Jewels.
Through Thunderbird, she studied abroad in Mexico and received a lot of international exposure. After that, she traveled to Turkey. “I realized then it was really time that I do something on my own,” explained Nadimi. “It all came together between my education and my inspirations.” Before leaving Turkey, she began creating jewelry pieces and continued on when she returned to France. “People in France were very complimentary and wanted to purchase them because they were unique pieces. Then I thought: “maybe this is something I should be doing!”
Her immersion in the business world began when she was 17 when she moved from the south of France to New York City to go to business school at NYU. After graduating she entered the world of finance. “I just felt like I had to be true to my studies,” said Nadimi. “I definitely didn’t like working in Wall Street for a financial firm. It’s just not my tempo, not my personality. It’s just not who I am.”
Little by little, her jewelry business started growing as she held private shows on weekends. By June 2013, she decided
to resign from her job at the financial firm so she could launch Ragen Jewels. “I had the background in finance and the network and relationships but I didn’t have it in this industry. So it was like total virgin territory for me to just jump in and assume that I’d be successful,” said Nadimi. “I didn’t think about a strategy. I went to business school so I know what you need: a business plan, investors… but I just followed my guts.” Her life today has become increasingly hectic. “It is extremely time consuming to have your own business because you have so many dimensions of the business that you need to think about and focus on,” explained Nadimi. “There are days that I work 16 hours and I just don’t notice it because it’s my life. But if I was in a corporate job and worked 16 hours, I would resign within three months.” For her, Ragen taking over her life is overwhelming, but a good overwhelming. “I just keep wanting to make it better.”
Nadimi christened her business Regan because it is her first name spelled backwards and she is proud to offer styles she was looking to buy herself. “There are pieces that I was looking to purchase but I couldn’t find, even in New York, which has such a vast marketplace in jewelry.” All items are made of silver and gold and ranges in price from $45 - $100. Nadimi is planning to open a physical retail location since so far it’s been only an e - commerce business. “Jewelry needs to be worn, needs to be tried on. It’s really hard to sell when it’s not felt or touched,” she says. “Jewelry is about women; the essence of a woman comes out when she wears it. It’s a representation of her personality, her emotions and her mood” enthuses Nadimi.“It has brought me a lot of joy to have women really appreciate, love and use it in their daily lives. That for me is one of the main rewards of what I’m doing.” FOLLOW RAGEN JEWELS ON INSTAGRAM: @RAGENJEWELS ON PINTEREST: HTTPS://WWW. PINTEREST.COM/RAGENJEWELS/ WEBSITE: RAGENJEWELS.COM
FEATURE New York Fashion Week: The Four Brands We Are All Talking About by Marina Herbst
A short time has passed since the Fall 2015 New York Fashion Week. More than two hundred designers showed and wowed with their collections, making the public forget about the bully that was winter weather and concentrate on all the amazing pieces walking down the runway. Some of the most unforgettable collections we had the pleasure to see were those of August Getty, Proenza Schouler, Wes Gordon and, of course, Oscar de la Renta. The most awaited show of the week was Oscar de la Renta. The late designer got to pick who his successor would be and on that day we understood why Mr. de la Renta had chosen Peter Copping. The idea was for them to work side - by side for a while and then, in a gradually manner, Copping would take charge of the brand. Sadly, Mr. de la Renta passed away before that could happen. Copping left a typewritten note on each seat, which read, “I am immensely proud to have been chosen as the creative director of Oscar de la Renta. Unfortunately things did not go according to our plans and I never had the chance to work with Oscar, which is something I deeply regret.” He continued, “In this, my first collection, I hope to honor Oscar’s legacy and also to start a
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Photo courtesy of cdn.fashionisers.com
new chapter for the house.” The point that day was not to shock but reassure. Peter Copping delivered a collection filled with tailored jackets, soft dresses and exquisite evening gowns. He showed sophisticated, feminine and romantic pieces. It was a clear respectful but transitional first collection. The room was divided in two. On one side of the catwalk Oscar’s widow was seated, next to Barbara Walters, Nancy Kissinger, Mica Ertegun and others whom in the past have bought and will continue buying dresses. On the other side you could find model Karlie Kloss and her friend and singer Taylor Swift. It was a clear division of the past and future of the house, both there to see the house’s present. From the sitting arrangements to the collection itself, Peter Copping was successful in honoring the house’s aesthetic and tradition.
clothes. The collection was very strong, filled with coats, dresses, skirts and midriffs. The dominant silhouette was lean through the torso. The fabrics were key, coming in black, white, grey and earth tones and in an array of tweeds to various needle - punched treatments. This collection had a lot of identity and it was a glamorous take on she - warriors. They looked specifically at the work of the trail - blazing Helen Frankenthaler, “She was just this really inspiring character for us, the whole idea of expressionism and spontaneity… this rawness to creating.”
It was a rather sexual collection, which also had some pieces that could be perfectly worn on an everyday basis. The young designer has quickly found how to balance that rebelliousness he has in him with a sleek and elegant aesthetic. Stay tuned because August Getty has a big career to come.
Some people call him “the next generation in fashion,” others are just starting to learn his name but what is definite is almost everyone is talking about August Getty. Fall 2015 was his second time showing at New York Fashion Week but it is extremely clear that this 20 - year - old novice is here to stay.
For Fall 2015 he combined the nineties tailoring with a bit of grunge, not only with the collections silhouettes but also with the color palette. Mostly in shades of gray with a few details in red, the collection included not so fancy fabrics used in a more glamorous way and lots of elegant pieces. He paired the pieces with Manolo Blahnik shoes, which consisted of refined combat boots. "Last season was very serene, very clean," Gordon said at a preview. "This time, there's a little more attitude. It's not aggressive, but there is an added confidence and toughness."
Inspired by the work of the abstract expressionists of the midcentury New York School, Proenza Schouler presented its latest collection at the Whitney Museum. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, Proenza’s designers, took advantage of the museums emptiness (it’s awaiting the arrival of the Metropolitan’s first show next year) and chose that location which harmonized perfectly with what they were trying to say with the
August Getty focuses on simple, elegant and tremendously sexy evening wear. He uses feminine silhouettes combined with fabrics that give the clothing an edgy and young feel to it. The entirely black collection featured leather, lace and fur doing justice to the name of it: The Other Woman. “You have to be very courageous and twisted to be the other woman,” quoted Getty about the theme of the collection.
WES GORDON
AUGUST GETTY
Photo courtesy of ella - lapetiteanglaise.com
Photo courtesy of s1115.photobucket.com
Wes Gordon, one of the finalists of the 2014 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, amazed the public one more time with his consistent nineties minimalist aesthetic he has been showing since he started on 2011.
PROENZA SCHOULER
Photo courtesy of bestcelebritystyle.com
FEATURE
Editor’s Pick:
FIT
14
Fashionest by Hermina Sobhraj
WWW.FASHIONEST.COM
There’s a new kid on the block and we’re hoping she’s here to stay. Meet Fashionest - the newest addition to the fashion e - commerce landscape. The jewelry company was founded by siblings Richa and Nitesh Nihalani, who graduated from George Washington University and Gemological Institute of America, respectively. Jewelry sold on the site is primarily separated by brand and trend and ranges anywhere from $20 - $400, but the wide bulk of their product is generally affordable. As co - founder Richa Nihalani explained to W27 that she’s well aware that online jewelry is an extremely competitive and somewhat saturated industry to survive in. Within e - commerce, the jewelry segment has gained significant traction amongst investors, according to Business Insider. Since 2010, companies like Stella & Dot, Beach Mint and Gilt Groupe have racked up over $200 million in major rounds of funding. BaubleBar, a prime competitor
for Fashionest, is now experimenting with its own retail stores and partnering with company MakerBot, which specializes in 3D printing. And so the fundamental question is, how does Fashionest plan on differentiating their business amongst heavy competitors like BaubleBar and Stella & Dot? 1. An Eye for Trends Plain and simple, Fashionest wants you to be a smart shopper. As you navigate the Fashionest homepage, “Bright White” and “Double Trouble Earrings” graphics set the tone for a trend - heavy website. While most sites involve trends, Richa says Fashionest will dedicate its brand to first and foremost keeping its shoppers up - to - date in jewelry fashion. 2. Quality Obsessive If there’s one thing we’ve all come across, it’s cheap jewelry. Not cheaply priced jewelry, but why did that gemstone fall out after one day, jewelry. While Fashionest
sells lower - priced pieces, fellow co - founder Nitesh has a background in fine jewelry that ensures a keen eye for detail. Personally responsible for quality assurance, he inspects every single product before it’s up for sale. 3. Top Designers House of Harlow 1960, Juliet Company, Chan Luu - just some of carefully picked gems of Fashionest. In a sea of jewelry manufacturers, companies and the like, Fashionest navigates all of this by attending trade shows and conducting extensive research to build partnerships with designers that share their mission. And to set them apart further, Fashionest also sells their own private label of jewelry on
Photo courtesy of Richa Nihalani the site as well. While Fashionest may be one of many in the market currently, W27 sees something special in this company. So take a look, and let Fashionest do the rest of the work for you.
The Retail Sales Race: Online Crushes In - Store by Thais Derjangocyan
Imagine a world where retail stores did not exist, and the buildings were simply there for decoration. Nowadays that may not seem so far - fetched. With online and mobile sales increasing by the day, says Forbes.com, as traditional retail sales decline, society may be approaching an era where online shopping will become the leading - - and eventually only way to purchase goods. Brick - and - mortar stores are threatened to the point where they either evolve with online businesses or risk falling behind. The biggest clue to date is not the ongoing decline in foot traffic among retail shoppers, but the steady rise in sales online. In fact Forbes. com reports that consumers have come to the point where even if they are buying something in store, about 34% expect to be able to research their purchase online while in the store. Online presence is increasingly becoming an essential adjunct of any retail business. Leading business media report that retailers are adapting by closing weaker stores and putting effort into those that
are doing better, or in this case strengthening their online presence. Some may end up converting completely to an online business. Forbes also reports that retailers need to understand how to evolve the customer experience with technology, and match what competitors are doing online. But this involves research and investigation. Basically retailers need to fight for their portion of the consumer’s time. A key reason online businesses do so well is that they can easily adapt: evolving with their consumer through technology. It’s not as easy for traditional stores to adapt to a changing, more tech savvy customer. But news on the retail front isn’t entirely grim; one segment of retail that is continuing to thrive is the high - end market. When customers pay a premium, they often want to be able touch the product. They pay for the experience. According to Forbes, the money is worth the time to see and purchase the products in - store. Factors like being able to check reviews about a specific product, engaging in
price comparisons for the best deal and viewing similar items all before making a purchase seem to be worth more to a consumer than the retail experience. It virtually assures a more satisfying purchase experience and a sense of value.. Amazon, being the leading example of an online business done right, had a successful holiday shopping season with more than 36.8 million items ordered online on Cyber Monday alone. The reasons behind it are plenty. The Wall Street Journal reports that 70% of more than 3,000 online shoppers preferred to shop their favorite retailer online simply due to the fact that it can easily be done through their smartphone. Advanced technology is the key player in the increase of online shopping. The easier it is to navigate the site, the more likely the purchase will be made online. The Wall Street Journal also reports that about 60% of tablet owners make their purchases through it. It takes one pleasant online shopping experience for consumers to get over that hump that leads to a continuous pattern.
With all the hype over technology, young entrepreneurs have a new market to enter. With prime examples like Nasty Gal and Amazon, the proof that a business runs solely online can in fact be a great investment. An online business, explains Entrepreneur.com, is flexible and exposed to a worldwide market. In terms of flexibility it offers a lot of freedom due to how technology based it is. From laptops to tablets, it allows you to work from home and not be banded to your office. This provides a better work - life balance, which makes a person more likely to make their business prosper due to their elevated mindset. In terms of a worldwide market it offers you an audience not limited to the townspeople, but to a global network right at your fingertips. An entrepreneur can take their business to an international level at a much quicker pace, as opposed to trying to gain exposure with a physical location. Not to mention an online business can be started for free, and once gains momentum can afford to grow with money.
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MARCH 2015
Menswear Fashion Week: The Cinderella of Fashion by Marina Herbst
A week prior to the beginning of the Fall 2015 New York Fashion Week, the Council of Fashion Designers of America announced that all the rumors that were floating around are true: New York will finally get a Menswear Week. Due to the success of London’s menswear collections and after years of negotiation, the CFDA will launch a standalone for American’s Men Fashion. Its official name will be New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and will run from July 13 - 16 (although it’s not seven days, it still counts as a ‘week’ in fashion math). The much awaited fashion “week” will take place at the Skylight Clarkson Square in SoHo, Manhattan. Amazon and its fashion sites, Amazon Fashion, East Dane and MyHabit will be the main sponsors and DreamWorks and Shinola will provide additional support.
in some form. Other designers who have committed to participate include Calvin Klein Collection, Michael Kors, Public School, Rag & Bone, Todd Snyder, Billy Reid, Ovadia & Sons, Kent & Curwen, Robert Geller, Duckie Brown, Michael Bastian, Patrik Ervell and Timo Weiland. Although the editors, buyers and media would very much love so, not all of them will hold runway shows. Some will do presentations and others will participate in other ways. According to Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA, they are still trying to work out which brand will be doing what.
“American menswear has never been stronger or more creative,” Kolb said. “There are many reasons the CFDA is launching New York Fashion Week: Men’s. It gives the designers a business platform to show during their market dates and is an opportunity to demonstrate the collective talent of an Photo courtesy of style.com important segment of our NYFW: Men’s will kick industry. The effort to create stand - alone off with the Spring 2016 Men’s Wear colmen’s shows is not just backed by CFDA lections ending the month of Menswear and participating designers, but also by market weeks from around the globe. the American editors and retailers who Tommy Hilfiger, a CFDA board member, have contributed as we have built this, and was one of the first designers to sign up they will continue to be involved in our and will take part in the inaugural event
mega men’s fashion week immediately. We know we have to build it from the ground up. But we’re going to do a good job, and we know we’ll be able to compete on a more global basis in the future.” This will be the first - ever Menswear Fashion Week in New York and will follow the success of every other men’s fashion week on the schedule: London, June 12 - 15; Milan, June 20 - 23; Paris, June 24 - 28, as well as couture July 5 - 10. The only thing left to do is keep track of the upcoming schedule to see who’s showing runway and who’s doing presentation, and start thinking about what to wear. Photo courtesy of style.com planning.” There are two main purposes behind the creation of NYFW: Men’s. First and foremost, the new project will try and give American menswear designers the exposure and prestige of their European counterparts. Secondly, it will focus on how great American designers are and how they too can have their own Menswear Fashion Week, while learning from London’s success. In Kolb’s words, “What the British Fashion Council has done is impressive, there’s a lot we can learn from them.” He added, “We’re not naïve enough to think that we’re going to create a huge, international
Photo courtesy of style.com
Scratch helps Launch New Instagram Series by Hayden Werp
Just The Tips, a social media series offering valuable and off - beat household tips under the moniker of Joel Kahn, is set to launch on Instagram in March, Maria Reask, an intern at Viacom’s Scratch announced recently. Joel’s humorously suggestive advice has a friendly gay flair and will demonstrate how to save money and time in easy - to - get 15 - second videos. “These small videos are not just helpful but, entertaining as well,” explains Reask, adding that the series will showcase Kahn’s notable sense of humor. Kahn’s Instagram, instagram.com/joelstips, recently attracted lots of press coverage and the Just The Tips videos will be featured on his instagram account, Reask explained. Tips include things like how to make your own brew, how to get wrinkles out of shirts, picnic planning and the like. Scratch, a Division of Viacom Media Network is working with Kahn to launch his new series. According to its website, Scratch is “a new kind of creative team”
that partners with brands “to strengthen them, recreate them or sometimes launch them altogether.”
testing fresh formats to appeal to its target audience and thinks the new series will grab hold. “They’ve done a lot of research on the millennial generation, so if a company doesn’t know how to connect with the millennials, Scratch would undoubtedly be able to help and do some amazing work,” Reask added. Kahn, a Miami, FL native studied film and television at Boston University. His previous and quirky social media creations include The Broke Foodie on the Gwist Youtube Network and thefoodboner.com website.
Photo courtesy of pbs.twimg.com Reask said that Scratch’s goal is to reach millennials, also their target audience for Kahn’s project. The trend of using social media to promote, entertain and sell products to an audience in a direct channel continues to gain acceptance. Scratch is
You can follow Joel Kahn on Instagram with new postings and updates every few days at username joelstips, or stay updated through Twitter at username TheFoodBoner and website thefoodboner.com.
FEATURE
FIT
16
Our Very Own Entrepreneurs by Roni Halloran
Roni Halloran Semester: 8th Major: Fashion Design, Knitwear Concentration Roni Halloran knit the first of many sweaters at the tender age of 13. Self driven, her dream is to see her sweaters on “everyday people.” She has already completed a knitwear internship at Tommy Hilfiger and her first six - piece collection sold out on SquareSpace. Halloran is currently a knitwear design intern at Orley, which launched their first women’s RTW line last NYFW. Halloren has been featured on Modabound twice, a peer - to - peer fashion marketplace, and was asked by a former FIT professor to help Joe Fresh hand knit their Fall/Winter 2014 show during Toronto Fashion Week. Graduating this spring, Halloren is ready to take the fashion world by storm. W27: When did you start your e - commerce business? Roni Halloran: The e - commerce business started last august, 2014, that’s when I started creating everything. I was working on it for a few months before I officially launched it. It was always in the works, always something I wanted to do, since I started selling my stuff at a boutique. More and more people were asking me “do you have a website?” “where can I get your stuff?” and so I finally just pushed myself to do it because it’s a lot of work. W27: Why did you start it? RH: I wanted to have a platform to sell my stuff and squarespace has a blog; an about me. It’s a very good platform because it helps you with shipping, and you can set up how the e-mails look when they order from you. W27: What advice do you have for students who want to follow in your footsteps? RH: Don’t let anything hold you back. It seems daunting when you start it because there are so many things to set up, but just have a clear vision and go for it. Just do it, it’s worth it. W27: Did what you learned in school provide you with the knowledge you needed to start your own business? RH: I went to teachers that I had close relationships with and I asked how to get labels in the garment industry, specifically, what is the best way to place the labels? I told them what I was doing and asked if they had any advice. It turned out that a lot of them had done it themselves.
W27: How did you initially get your products in store? RH: While I was interning at Tommy Hilfiger two summers ago, I met one of the freelancers who would come in a few times a week. She saw how much passion I had for knitting because I was always doing it on my breaks. Throughout my three months there, she continuously asked me where I was selling my stuff and what my website was and that I should get all my designs together and start going to boutiques. One weekend before my internship was over, I finally decided to do it. I went to this boutique that had a lot of black and edgy items. All of my stuff was bright and colorful. They told me, they loved my stuff and to “do it in all black and come back to us.” I brought three hats and three scarves back in black and they loved them and told me to make more, which I did. I made six of each and that is how I got them into the store. W27: How did you get to do hand knits for Joe Fresh’s FW 14 show?
She has dealt with some of the best in their respective industries, such as Tony Hawk, Christie Brinkley and Christy Turlington. Having met both models when they were first discovered, she played a role in helping them become the superstars they are today. W27: How did you attract the accounts that your firm has? Sarah Hall: When I first wanted to get into PR, 20 years ago, my first three clients found me through friends that I had known when I worked at The William Morris Agency or other past jobs. It’s pretty much been a steady flow of word of mouth ever since. Only now, word of mouth is not only from friends, but also among publishing houses, talent agents and managers I haven’t even met yet. We have been told that our work and our reputation precedes us (literally), which is very flattering and has been very good for business.
“WHETHER PEOPLE REALIZE IT YET OR NOT, YOUR EDUCATION AT FIT WILL SERVE YOU WELL ON MANY, MANY LEVELS.”
RH: Professors started knowing me as “the knitting girl.” Someone told Professor Aimes, who is no longer at FIT, to talk to me because he had been asked to help Joe Fresh and Anthropologie but he could only do one. He chose to help Anthropologie and asked if I would want to help Joe Fresh. I ended up making a men’s sweater and four scarves. W27: What do you want to do once you graduate?
RH: I want to work as a knitwear designer for a major player in the industry. That way I will get first - hand experience and be able to build my own contacts before I eventually start my own line. Sarah Hall FIT Alum Major: Advertising and Marketing Communications Sarah Hall is the founder of Sarah Hall Productions, a public relations firm right here in New York. A former FIT student, she is celebrating her 20th year in business. Hall is known for her attention to detail and her dedication to her clients.
W27: How do you get new business?
SH: Fortunately, my phone rings, a lot. I do reach out to thank people for recommending SHP or try to schedule a lunch so I can get to know the people who are standing behind our work and recommending us during their round table meetings. I am always networking because will people will remember you and how you made them feel. But I always remember that it is as important to be kind as it is to be smart. People want to work with people they like. W27: Since you started, what was your most difficult moment? How did you deal with it? SH: I find the best way to deal with a difficult moment, is to just deal with it. I am not the type of person to sit on my feelings or walk around wondering how to position the “reality” of a situation. For most things in life, it is what it is and I try to have that conversation. As long as I know that I have done everything that was within my power to address a situation, that my side of the street is clean, I am actually very confident about having that conversation. When you look back, dealing with life’s difficulties tends to make you stronger.
W27: Why did you start your business? SH: I never planned on starting my own business but my very first client and her agent implored me to start my own company because they had worked with many of the other PR firms at the time and were deeply dissatisfied. So I did and it grew from there. It is wonderful to have a client believe in you so strongly. W27: Why did you choose FIT? SH: I had interviewed and visited with a lot of schools but when I walked into FIT, I knew I was home. This was IT; the students, the vibe, the teachers. It was and still is, such an incredible place. Whether people realize it yet or not, your education at FIT will serve you well on many, many levels. I also have to say, living at the dorms for 2 years was amazing. I would liken it to living in the hippest hotel in the world. Everyone across the hall or next door was just incredible at what they did (majored in) - - so you were living next to an amazing fashion designer, photographer, illustrator, jewelry designer - - to be surrounded by that much talent was overwhelming and a feeling I will never forget. W27: Did you have a mentor at FIT? SH: New York City was my mentor. There were incredible people everywhere at FIT from the teachers to the students, each with a fascinating story to tell, along with great museums, restaurants, performance spaces and nightclubs. W27: Looking forward, how do you see your business? SH: Looking forward, I see the opportunity to continue doing what I love but on a more global scale. Many people may not realize it, but the lifestyle footprint in London and Australia is very similar to the lifestyle footprint here. I love crossing a client over from a niche into more mainstream press and would love to continue building these arcs with more international, global clients. I would like to think that the work we are doing at SHP is helping to build a more global, pop culture tapestry. Instagram: Personal: SarahHallSHPNY PR Company: SarahHallPRINC
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MARCH 2015
HOW PUBLIC SCHOOL MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY LISTEN Photo courtesy of Public School
by Dana Heyward
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) is one of the most lucrative trade organizations of the creative industries. The organization has acted like a foster parent offering a huge lending hand in kick - starting brands such as Alexander Wang, Thakoon and Timo Weiland. From numerous scholarships, grant programs, philanthropic initiatives and an award ceremony that’s been dubbed “the Oscars of the fashion industry” by Style.com, it has proven to be a force to be reckoned with. But the CFDA’s most recent golden child that’s been keeping the fashion industry on its toes for the past several years is the streetwear brand, Public School. In 2010, Dao - Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne’s clothing line, Public School, became one of 12 brands selected for the CFDA’s Fashion Incubator program. The two New York - raised designers found themselves alongside designers such as Prabal Gurung and Bibhu Mohapatra. While the Incubator only admits designers who have been established (high end editorial features and top retail orders), for at least two years prior to their application, Public School was relatively fresh - faced and Chow and Osborne were seen as the underdogs. The CFDA Fashion Incubator was born in 2009, out of an initiative by then - mayor Michael Bloomberg, with the intent of developing, supporting and retaining entrepreneurs. Initially the program was designed to partner with the Fashion Institute of Technology. But Lisa Smilor, the CFDA’s executive director, did not want to risk the integrity of the organization on students straight out of college. New York City gives the program a $200,000 grant, allowing the
participating designers to rent designated studio spaces at low prices. The Incubator’s participating designers are also given business mentoring, lectures and other marketing, production and sales tools to help build their brand. While in - depth, the two - year program is treated differently than its counterpart, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund is possibly one of the most publicized programs (partially due to it’s partnership with Vogue) stemming from the organization, as it is treated in a quasi - Project Runway manner. In comparing the two, the Fashion Fund is seen more as a straight - out competition while the Incubator is more like a community, which can be appealing to a lot of young designers looking to ground themselves in the fashion industry. After completing their residency with the Incubator program, Public School’s presence in the industry began to grow and they quickly earned a following. In 2013, Chow and Osborne were awarded with the Swarovski Young Men’s Designer award from the CFDA. Several months later the brand went onto win the coveted CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund along with it’s $300,000 prize, to the fashion world’s delight and surprise. Creative director of J. Crew and CFDA/ Vogue Fashion judge, Jenna Lyons told the New York Times after Public School’s win, “What we appreciated was the way they presented a consistent message at every turn and a clear point of view. You understood their brand. It didn’t require an explanation.” As a brand, Public School can be described as a balanced mix of high and low end. It’s quintessentially a love letter to New York culture, with elements
of sportswear, avant - garde and modern - edge, set against a predominantly black palette. But most of all, it’s irrefutably cool. Chow and Osborne are very much representative of the brand, as the two both stem from Queens and Brooklyn respectively. While their work mostly appeals to a street - wear market, they consider themselves high fashion. Chow and Osborne may be the new kids of the industry, but they’re also being lauded as the “rising stars” and “ones to watch” as well. The two initially met while working at Sean John, where Chow worked as creative director and Osborne was an intern before he went on to oversee woven designs. They became friends over their common interests and shared love for New York. Chow soon went on to start a menswear store in Miami but remained in contact with Osborne. In 2008, unimpressed with the state of men’s fashion, the two regrouped and decided to start their own brand. It was a rough beginning as they were self - financed. But they remained dedicated to creating something that they were both proud of and believed would take the fashion industry by storm.
While it’s been two years since their CFDA win, Chow and Osborne have kept themselves plenty busy in making sure Public School will not be forgotten anytime soon. The same year the duo did a collaboration with J.Crew and in 2014 they snagged the International Woolmark Prize for their Merino wool collection. But what really caught the fashion world’s attention was their recent plunge into women’s design. While there was some concern that a brand that has firmly established itself as strictly menswear wouldn’t be successful in womenswear, the duo wiped away all doubt when they showcased their first women’s collection for Fall 2014. The clothing seamlessly complimented their men’s collection with androgynous and boxy silhouettes but still maintained a feminine edge. “Erstwhile rapper - designers [Kanye West] could learn a lot from Chow and Osborne,” said fashion critic Cathy Horyn on Public School’s fall ready - to - wear 2015 show, “The first lesson is to make every piece of an outfit interesting, not just the eye - grabbing parka or bomber.”
In an interview with New York Magazine, fresh from their Fashion Fund win, Chow admitted, “We had a lot of luck on our side. Whenever people ask us for advice on starting their own line, we usually try to talk them out of it.” The name ‘Public School’ was created as a reference to both Chow and Osborne’s education in the New York City public school system. In an interview on J. Crew’s website, Chow said, “The public schools are notorious for being overcrowded and underfunded. So you have to be an overachiever, original and authentic these are the tenets of the brand.”
Photo courtesy of bbook.com
FEATURE
18
FIT
style
ENTREPRENEURIAL
twist
WITH A BARCELONA
W27
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MARCH 2015
DEEPLY UNCONVENTIONAL ENTREPRENEURS EAGER FOR FREEDOM AND CHANGE
FOUNDED BY DESIGNERS ÁNGEL VILDA, CÉSAR OLIVAR AND VERÓNICA RAPOSO, BRAIN&BEAST PRESENTS A COLLECTION THAT REFLECTS ON GAMES, RIDDLES AND HIEROGLYPHICS OF APPARENT STRUCTURAL SIMPLICITY. THEY RESPOND TO COMPLEX GEOMETRICAL EQUATIONS IN WHICH COLOR AND MATERIALS FORM PARTS OF CODES WHERE NOTHING IS RANDOM.
BRAINANDBEAST.COM Photo courtesy of Brain & Beast Twitter
FEATURE
20
FIT
W27
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MARCH 2015
WHERE HUMOR LEADS TO THE LIBERATION OF THOUGHT
BRAIN&BEAST MODELS ALI OGRIS CHRIS LAVISH STYLES GREEN AND ORANGE SWEATSHIRT: “MISFIT SWEATSHIRT” SKIRT: “ BEETLEJUICE COTTON SKIRT” MALE TOP: “STRIPED SHIRT” MALE TANK TOP: “YSL TANK TOP” PHOTOGRAPHY NEERAJ JAIN, NYU MAKEUP/HAIR DANIELLE GAMBARDELLA
HAUTE CULTURE APP REVIEW:
3 GAME - CHANGING APPS FOR EVERY NEW ENTREPRENEUR by Maria Beneventano
IN THIS DAY - AND - AGE OF THE TECHNOLOGICAL ERA, THE WEB OFFERS USERS OVER 1 MILLION APPS, WITH SPECIFIC WANTS AND NEEDS STEMMED FROM NEARLY EVERY IDEA AND TOPIC IMAGINABLE. WITH THIS CONCEPT IN MIND, THERE ARE SEVERAL APPS THAT WERE CREATED TO SUIT THE NEEDS OF UP - AND - COMING ENTREPRENEURS AND TO HELP THEM NAVIGATE THROUGH THEIR WINDING JOURNEY OF THE BUSINESS WORLD. Skitch Often times, we scroll through our camera rolls and wonder why we screenshotted a particular picture when we have no recollection as to why. Skitch by Evernote, allows people to write notes and add shapes on existing photos to document his/her ideas, enabling them to look back at it on a later date. For this reason, the app is an essential factor in keeping the average entrepreneur organized in his/her daily tasks. Skitch allows users to access pictures by choosing among photos from your camera roll, taking a picture using the Skitch camera, creating your own Skitch image from a blank page or webpage, pasting a picture from the device clipboard or by opening a PDF from another app. Right after you have taken a photo, the Skitch Camera will include a Quick Markup Feature, which will automatically add a textbox and an arrow to your picture, for your own personal use. Do you have floor plans for your future office building when you make it big in the business world? This app will
enable you to have the designs in the palm of your hand, by simply accessing an existing photo of a room sample and adding the finishing touches to your plan. EchoSign Faxing, printing or filing papers to another recipient can sometimes be an aggravating task, especially if you are running late or are experiencing complications with the transmitting procedure. Moments like these call for a quick and painless process through the handy app called EchoSign. This app allows users to send contracts, agreements or other documents to one or more signers. The signers will then receive an e-mail stating that an e - document was sent to them, which will then allow them to sign and send the file back to the original possessor of the document. In addition, all documents will be saved in your app’s history, which will provide proof of the records in case any issues happen to arise. This eliminates the possibility of your documents getting lost in the mail and therefore the inability of your recipient receiving your contract. Not
to mention the fact that your documents will be received within seconds with a simple click of a button, as opposed to several days or even weeks with traditional postal service. EchoSign can be accessed from any device, which is perfect for the on - the - go business man/woman who may not have a computer sitting right in front of them at all times of the day. Mint Starting up your own business may seem like a fun and exciting venture, but it can only be possible if all of your expenses are managed and properly recorded. Mint enables entrepreneurs to easily access information about their available funds. By listing all data regarding personal investment and financial accounts, Mint allows users to create a budget, monitor spending, receive bill reminders, and save money along the way. The app also alerts users of any high spending activities, recent transactions, and any fees that have to be paid for.
spending your money and how much of it is spent at each location. If you are someone who often forgets about bills that have to be paid, you can worry no more! Mint notifies you when you have an upcoming fee or bill to pay, via text message or e-mail so that these important tasks are never forgotten. When initially becoming a user of this app, you will create a budget for yourself, which is broken down into several categories of spending. For example, if you had recorded that you only have $300 to spend on clothing, the app will monitor your spending activities, and alert you as to how much money you have leftover to spend as time passes by. Aside from the fact that Mint is helpful in controlling your short - term finances, it also has the ability to prepare you for long - term investments. If purchasing a car is a goal that you set for yourself within the next few years, you will receive advice from professionals regarding how to budget your money and apportion your paychecks in both your savings and checking accounts.
Mint creates a visual using charts and maps which clearly depict where you are
ONE, FINAL VOYAGE: REMEMBERING LEONARD NIMOY by Dan Nissim
IN 1966, GENE RODDENBERRY INTRODUCED TO THE TV WORLD THE CREW OF THE USS ENTERPRISE IN “STAR TREK.” WHILE THE SHOW ONLY LASTED THREE SEASONS, IT WAS REVOLUTIONARY NOT ONLY IN ITS TECHNOLOGICAL VISION BUT ALSO IN ITS SOCIAL MISSION TO BREAK CULTURAL BARRIERS. WILLIAM SHATNER PORTRAYED THE SHIP’S CAPTAIN, JAMES T. KIRK, WHO WAS AIDED BY HIS FIRST OFFICER (AND SCIENCE OFFICER), SPOCK, A VULCAN PORTRAYED BY THE RECENTLY DECEASED, LEONARD NIMOY. KIRK MAY HAVE BEEN THE CAPTAIN – MAKING MANY DIFFICULT, GUT DECISIONS – BUT SPOCK WAS THE ONE WHO ALWAYS PROVIDED THE LOGICAL SOLUTION EVEN AT THE COST OF PERSONAL HARM. ZACHARY QUINTO HAS CARRIED ON NIMOY’S LEGACY AS MR. SPOCK IN THE NEW “STAR TREK” FILMS, BUT IT WILL ALWAYS BE NIMOY’S SPOCK THAT COMES TO MIND. IN HONOR OF LEONARD NIMOY, I SUBMIT TO YOU MY TOP FIVE “SPOCK MOMENTS.”
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“Journey to Babel” (Season 2, Episode 10) – In what is essentially “Bring Your Parents to Work” day for Spock; we’re introduced to Spock’s Vulcan father, Sarek, and human mother, Amanda. The Enterprise is playing host to a variety of diplomats, shuttling them to a conference. There seems to be some bad blood between Spock and his father, but it is difficult to get a read on it due to their stiff, Vulcan attitude. It’s quite funny watching his mother squirm between two beings devoid of emotion. The great Spock moment happens when he assumes command of the Enterprise due to Kirk’s injury and refuses to relinquish command (because there is no one qualified to take over in such a precarious situation) in order to give a blood transfusion to save his father – guess who’s not getting a Christmas card next year? Ultimately, Dr. McCoy and Kirk have to trick Spock into stepping down so he can sit in for the procedure.
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“Star Trek VI: The Undiscovered Country” – An aging crew of the Enterprise is called upon once
again, this time to escort the Klingon Chancellor, Gorkon, to a peace talk between the Klingon Empire and the United Federation of Planets. Things go sideways and the Chancellor is assassinated in a plot to derail any peace treaty. In an effort to glean information from one of the conspirators – Spock’s own protégé, Valeris (Kim Cattrall) – Spock forces her to speak employing a brutal mind - meld. In a moment filled with shame and anger, Spock is unable to wrestle all the necessary information.
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“Mirror, Mirror” (S.02, Ep,04) – “Evil” Spock with a beard, ‘nuff said.
“Amok Time” (S.02, Ep.01) – The episode begins with Dr. McCoy informing Kirk that he’s concerned about Spock. Kirk assures McCoy that everything is fine, and is quickly corrected when Spock flings his soup into the hall in a tirade. Spock continually demands to have leave time on Vulcan, but offers no explanation as to his erratic behavior. The Enterprise
goes through several course changes, but ultimately heads to Vulcan when Spock finally confides in Kirk. He explains that he is going through Pon Farr, a mating period that a Vulcan goes through every seven years. Basically, Spock’s hormones drive him crazy – literally. When they arrive at Vulcan, Spock, Kirk and McCoy beam down for Spock’s marriage ceremony. Short story: there’s a challenge to the death, Spock kills Kirk, Spock does not marry girl (she’s totally cool with that), Spock goes back to the Enterprise ready to turn himself him. To his great surprise, Kirk is alive. In that moment, Spock steps way out of character with a wide smile, but is quick to return to his formal behavior.
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“Star Trek II: The Wrath of Khan” (1982) – Khan Noonien Singh, one of the Enterprise’s most - dangerous adversaries, returns. Basically, he steals this bomb that creates new life. He and Kirk go at it in a space battle in a nebula. Kirk’s all like “Ha, ha, 20th century man. You can’t think in three dimensions.” Having been defeated,
Illustration by Jessica Blicksilver Khan activates the bomb and starts quoting Herman Melville’s Moby Dick. The Enterprise is stranded with its Warp Drive offline. In his most selfless moment, Spock abandons his station on the bridge, heads to Engineering, goes into the chamber with the Warp Drive (which is full of radiation), reactivates the Warp Drive, which ultimately saves the Enterprise. Kirk and Spock have a real bro moment as Spock slowly dies. “The needs of the many, outweigh the needs of the few, or the one.”
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MARCH 2015
INDEPENDENT BOOKSTORES CONTINUE TO STRIVE by Mayra Bajana
“Print is dead,” an English high school teacher exclaimed to his class. But this was 2011, the same year Borders bookstores began to close their doors. Additionally, it was the same year Amazon stepped up to become the world’s largest bookseller. In 2014, several bookstores closed forever. Others moved across town to other locations due to a decline in book sales and rises in rent. A different problem from the ‘90s when it was believed chain stores such as Borders and Barnes & Noble would dominate the market. Today, Borders is non - existent, and the number of Barnes & Noble bookstores is quickly diminishing all over the country. As these large chain stores are slowly becoming extinct the smaller independent bookstores become more available. The Strand, McNally Jackson and Housing Works are among the few that continue to strive. How do these shops continue to succeed? 88 year - old family - owned bookstore, The Strand, has a large market for used - books. Throughout the day, book shoppers comb the store, looking for bargains. The bookstore known for its wide selection carries everything from used to rare to new and out - of - print books. Logoed merchandise is sold in the store, while outside the store services are offered to the rich to fill their empty shelves. The bookstore has been part of Greenwich Village since 1957, a long history prior to the beatniks and gentrification of New York City neighborhoods. The
Strand began in what was called Book Row, a six block stretch on Fourth Avenue from Union Square to Astor Place filled with secondhand book vendors during the late 1920s. Today these cheap bargains are what surround the outsides of The Strand. Ben Bass created the store for his love of literature and books. 88 years later, his son and granddaughter are in control of what he started, alongside employees who never wanted to leave.
down, then moved to the bargain racks outside, then finally sold in bulk for stage sets and the like,” said Fred Bass in an interview with Slate.com last November.
“Bookselling begins with a care for things. There are great emotions to be found in books, and in bookstores you can find things that can have a tremendous effect on your life,” said Marvin Mondlin, the estate book buyer for The Strand in a short video entitled “The History of the Strand Bookstore with Fran Lebowitz.”
On the ‘about us’ page, Bass shows the importance of his customers. “We are a community bookstore first and foremost. We are forever invested in you,” he says.
Mondlin, who has been with The Strand since the days of Book Row, is very passionate about his job. He believes it is necessary to have expertise when it comes to book buying, regardless of old or new. When purchasing a new or used book the store is selective, making sure that whatever comes in, goes rapidly. Fred Bass, owner of the shop, assists with the buying process, carefully examining and selecting each book it decides to purchase. For new books, the store has what is called a “broke editorial assistant.” This allows the store to purchase its review copies for about a quarter of the typical price or less. A strategic plan that assures the store does not lose money in this Internet age. “Slow sellers are culled, then marked
Unlike Amazon, The Strand offers face - to face interaction, an experience, and employees who are passionate and knowledgeable about what they do. Unlike Amazon and Kindle, there is a “Cheaper than Ebooks” table when entering the store.
McNally Jackson offers 60,000 volumes sectioned by geography and culture and a Wi - Fi free café within its two floors at 52 Prince Street. Sarah McNally, owner and founder of McNally Jackson, knows volume is the most important factor for her customers. In 2013 alone, the bookstore brought in over $4 million in sales due to the volume available. “Instead of getting rid of shelf for display, we’ve gotten rid of display space for shelf space,” said McNally in an interview with New York Magazine. She believes in creating a welcoming environment for different types of readers through this. The same volume is offered on the stores website, offering online shopping services and publishing services. “My particular secret is I always keep the books front and center,” said McNally in an interview with the Winnipeg Free Press. Her second secret is her connection with
the customer. “If I can’t make a person comfortable and excited about reading and unite them with books, I don’t deserve to exist.” Like the family - owned Strand, McNally believes the bookstore is her life duty. She is expected to open her second bookstore this fall in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Housing Works, best known for its bookstore café located off Crosby Street in SoHo continues to exist through donation. It is not any mere thrift shop, café or bookstore, but an organization that dedicates itself to the homeless who have been affected by HIV and AIDS. Housing Works is a nonprofit, volunteer staffed enterprise where 90% of its revenue comes from health care, social enterprise businesses, other services and events. Literary events welcome local New Yorkers and visitors to attend and engage with one another. March 10, the store will hold what it calls “The Moth StorySLAM,” an open - mic storytelling competition selected at random from a hat by those who wish to participate. Ten are selected to read their stories on a theme given ahead of time, and three judges are to select a winner for the night. It drives customers into Housing Works for more than just book purchases, but for entertainment. These independent bookstores continue to exist and strive through means other than just books. They have become important locations throughout New York City in this Internet age. Buy local, and help these stores continue their missions.
5 OTHER INDEPENDENT BOOKSTORES TO VISIT:
Photo courtesy of sideways.nyc The St. Mark’s Bookshop East Village - 136 E. 3rd Street Opened since 1977, the bookstore has been a home to students, artists and the old St. Mark’s punks. The bookstore reopened in July 2014 after being forced to temporarily close and change locations. The store was previously located on Third Avenue, home to the bookstore since 1992.
Photo courtesy of 3.bp.blogspot.com Bluestockings Lower East Side – 172 Allen Street Walking into this little shop is like entering the Feminist bookstore in “Portlandia,” except we are in New York and the people here are nice. Bluestockings prides itself as being a fair trade café, radical bookstore and activist center. Their mission is to support movements that challenge all systems of oppression.
Photo courtesy of wikimedia.org Masthead East Village – 66 Avenue A The wooden floor and white walls of the bookstore make you feel as if you were entering the Chelsea galleries. Art, photography, philosophy books and novels are mainly found in this carefully selected bookstore.
Photo courtesy of theupcoming.co.uk The Powerhouse Arena Dumbo – 37 Main Street Next time you cross the Brooklyn Bridge into Dumbo, make sure to visit the PowerHouse Arena, a curated shop that serves as a bookstore and exhibition space. During September, the New York Photo Festival is held at this shop.
Photo courtesy of killingwilliamsburg.com Spoonbill & Sugartown Williamsburg – 218 Bedford Ave Pre - gentrification, the bookstore has been located in Williamsburg since 1999. With a great selection of books and rare magazines you easily get lost. Oddly this store is remembered for the shop’s adorable cat who falls asleep in the middle of a book shelf.
HAUTE CULTURE
MUSIC REVIEW:
FIT
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DRAKE’S NEW MIXTAPE:
THE TELL ALL ON THE BE - ALL OF HIP - HOP by Nicole DeStefano
“Jimmy in the wheelchair from Degrassi can rap?,” many of our premature, 2009 minds pondered with the release of the EP “So Far Gone,” by rapper Aubrey Graham, who quickly rose to musical prominence under the mononym Drake. Five years later at the tick of midnight on Feb. 12, the anniversary of his debut, fans were flummoxed again when he “pulled a Beyoncé” and stealthily dropped a 17 track mixtape entitled, “If You’re Reading This It’s Too Late.” Only this time, there was no question of Drake’s capabilities - his disses more targeted, his boasts less modest and his hooks sure to catch. This qualitative feat translated commercially with every track from the set logging about 1.8 million U.S. streams in the week ending Feb. 22, according to Nielsen Music. This success further translated into record breaking real estate on BillBoard’s Hot R&B/Hip - Hop Songs Chart, ruling 42 percent of the 50 position with 21 concurrent songs on the score - 7 of which inherent to the new mixtape. While it seems its impromptu release held more cohesively than that of many highly anticipated albums, some listeners were
left with a sour taste. A few of which who may need their palates cleansed include hip - hop counterparts Tyga, P Diddy, Kanye West and Kendrick Lamar.
toward Lil Wayne’s public financial dispute with the record, he implies a similar desire to worm out of the money pit. The $13 price tag allotted to the mixtape after its initial release, technically assigns it as
Lyrical stabs at the heart of the beef surrounding Drake and these rappers comprise of, “You need to act your age and not your girl’s age,” aimed at 24 year old labelmate Tyga’s publicly dissected relationship with Kylie Jenner, only 17. As for ex - friend Kendrick Lamar, “They gon’ say your name on them airwaves/ They gon’ hit you after like it’s only rap,” referencing the shot Lamar slung at him in his single “Control.”
an album, which may also be an attempt to be closer to contractual freedom from the label.
Who received the biggest of Drake’s machine gun hitters? You guessed it, Bryan “Birdman” Williams, owner of Cash Money Records. Drake bites at the very hand that feeds him: “Brand new Beretta, can’t wait to let it go/Walk up in my label like, ‘Where the check, though?’” Ditching his mums - the - word attitude
When rounding the tracks, Drake’s homage to Canada seems to be another dominating theme. This hometown pride mirrors that of the greats, like Biggie to New York and Eminem to Detroit. Another big giveaway of this new sense of vocalized reverence is his previously unheard Toronto accent - talk about Drake Ft. Drake.
Photo courtesy of broadwayworld.com
Stylistically, the beats don’t fall short of the dynamic sounds he streamed through the airwaves with his 2013 studio album Nothing Was the Same. An emphasis on rhythm is dominant with perceivable experimental trials of flow. Lyrically, there is no gold mine here. However, unlike the “Mean Girls” Gretchen Wiener’s “fetch” failure, he continues to make obscure language seem nothing short of cool. For example, the “Know Yourself” usage of “Running through the 6 with my woes” definitely beats what could be “Hanging in Toronto with my pals.” There are noticeably less allusions to women and heartbreak, which will make scrolling through Twitter less amusing due to the absence of Drake memes. Screening through the mixtape does however present a more fulfilling type of entertainment value. It’s safe to say that the compilation serves as a tasty appetizer for his looming 2015 LP Views from the 6, which from the looks of it, will definitely be something to dish over.
BOOK REVIEW:
#GIRLBOSS BY SOPHIA AMORUSO: AVERAGE BOOK, NOT - SO - AVERAGE AUTHOR by Allison Moran
The success of Sophia Amoruso’s “#GIRLBOSS,” a book on creating a business, cannot be measured by that of her clothing company, Nasty Gal. “#GIRLBOSS” - the title itself is a marketing plan. Despite how smart the title is, it doesn’t resonate with me. Why not “#BOSS”? This would make sense, seeing that Amoruso claims in the book’s introduction that “it is neither a feminist manifesto nor a memoir.” Later in the introduction, she shares some advice with her readers, saying “don’t ever grow up, don’t become a bore, don’t ever let the man get to you.” Clearly, this is a feminist manifesto. If the book were not a memoir, the majority of the book would not be about Amoruso’s personal life, which it is. It starts with her seemingly rough childhood, talking about Amoruso’s experience with “petty thievery” and the fact that her first online sell was a stolen book. This is not exactly the best way to inspire young women to start their own businesses. “#GIRLBOSS” is not for the college graduate or even the college student. The
topics covered in the book are shallow continuously growing into the megaoutlines of topics covered in a typical brand that it is today. As Amoruso states business class. When she isn’t talking “I was addicted to my business and to about the rapid growth of Nasty Gal, she watching it grow every day.” Although a is on a tangent about what a poor role well - known fact for those educated in model Amoruso feels business, a point she is. A lesson from is made here with the text is making sure two words: “every that you sell what the day.” Creating a consumer is looking for. business, such as If Amoruso is good at Nasty Gal, takes one thing, it is at reachconstant attention. ing her target market. She gives the customers Amoruso’s deadwhat they want, which pan sense of contributes to the suchumor makes the cess of Nasty Gal. By book enjoyable to adding over 60,000 read, because her girls on Myspace, words of wisdom Amoruso understood will not be enough. the importance of free When first starting marketing through her business, estate social media. The consales were a large nection between Nasty source of inventory. Photo courtesy of self.com Gal and the Internet is Amoruso would why I am mildly okay with the hashtag in make “a map starting with whichever one the title. [estate sale] sounded like the people who died were the oldest.” Morbid? Perhaps. Amoruso first opened an EBay store to Funny? Yes. This revealing of where she sell her vintage clothing finds in 2006, received inventory, however, shows another
contradiction in “#GIRLBOSS.” Amoruso states that “dealing vintage is like dealing drugs, you never reveal your source.” Making a noteworthy point, Amoruso said “When I hear ‘no,’ I rarely listen.” We have been told for years to fight for what we believe in, but we are always told to listen to our bosses, parents and professors. To have a successful businessperson tell you that not taking “no” for an answer is okay and to defy authority in efforts of furthering yourself and your brand, is a powerful message. Without revealing any groundbreaking business secrets, “#GIRLBOSS” succeeds in entertaining the reader with funny anecdotes of Amoruso’s rags - to - riches history and amusing stories of her creation of Nasty Gal. While not educational by any stretch, “#GIRLBOSS” certainly motivates and inspires its readers to create something magnificent.
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THE BUSINESS OF FEEDING:
RESTAURANT REVIEW:
MARCH 2015
ENTRÉES MEET ENTREPRENEURS by Jenny Kim
WHEN IT COMES TO MAKING IT IN THE WORLD OF BUSINESS, EVEN WITHIN THE BUSINESS OF FOOD, ATTENTION TO DETAIL IS A MAJOR KEY IN MANAGING ONE’S OWN PERSONAL SUCCESS. COUNTLESS HOURS OF PLANNING, PREPARATION AND EXECUTION OF THEIR SOUGHT - AFTER BUSINESS HAVE HELPED THEM TO CONTINUE ON THE SUCCESS OF THEIR BRANDS IN ORDER TO ENSURE VITALITY AND A CONTINUOUS DEMAND BEING MET FOR THEIR CONSUMERS. CHEF JANINE BOOTH OF ROOT & BONE:
motivates you to work hard? JB: Ever since I moved to the States, I was very much exposed to Southern food. I think being passionate about the cuisine itself and also being in New York, there’s that eagerness to succeed and do well. Especially if there are a lot of people relying on you. For me, there are about forty - five people and we are all like a family here at the restaurant. Root & Bone is blessed with an amazing staff. The most important thing at the restaurant is the food and the service. The people working to create great food and great service are the ones that really drive and motivate me. W27: How did you make it in such a competitive industry and what is your definition of success?
Photo courtesy of Janine Booth W27: When did you decide that you wanted to become a chef? Janine Booth: My dad actually runs a couple restaurants in Australia, that’s where I am from. I started helping him out and it made me want to go into the restaurant business myself. At first my father was worried and said, “Janine, the restaurant business is very stressful and you have to work very long hours with little free time.” Later on I went on a nine month trip to Europe and Southeast Asia and then I discovered the different cultures including their cuisines. I fell in love with all of these different cuisines and that is what really drew me into culinary. From there on, I went to culinary school. And this is the first thing I actually stuck through and it was something I really excelled at. W27: I know that you are currently running one of the most famous fried chicken places here in Manhattan with Chef McInnis. Can you explain the meaning behind the name Root & Bone? And what inspired you guys to open up this restaurant?
JB: Yes, the food industry is a very competitive industry. Here at Root & Bone, we emphasize using the freshest ingredients as possible and having great customer service. It takes a lot of time to make sure everything goes smoothly. It is very difficult but I think that staying on top of all of the budget issues and making sure that you are within your boundaries and premises are what makes you strive in this competitive industry. A restaurant is not going to be successful if they forget and neglect the business side of things. W27: The next question is very simple but it might be a little difficult as you are a chef and you live and breathe food. What is your all time favorite dish, and why?
JB: My next goal would be to open up another Root & Bone either in New York or somewhere else in the States. If I could do it in Australia, it would be amazing. I have a lot of goals but I would definitely love to take southern food back to Australia and expose it over there. W27: What is your advice to future chefs? JB: I am twenty - seven and I have my own restaurant, which is amazing and I feel so blessed to have this. I wouldn’t change anything for the world. However, one thing that I wish that I took more time to do before I opened up my own restaurant is to go volunteer at a bunch of different restaurants and explore all kinds of different cuisines. For example, right now I really wish I could take time out to go and explore and learn about Indian cuisine, Thai cuisine and even learn how to roll sushi and assemble sashimi (you can tell I really love Asian food). I highly advise aspiring chefs to do this because once you open up your own restaurant and start a business, there’s not a lot of free time left in your hands. I think that traveling is a very good way to expose yourself to different cuisines. For example, I was fortunate enough to go traveling after graduating high school. I went backpacking on a very tight budget but food would be one thing I would definitely splurge on. Also, plan very well before you go on the trip.
ZACH KOFF, VP OF OPERATIONS FOR SHAKE SHACK:
Basically it is a very rich, yellow coconut milk broth with a lot of different spices. It can be somewhat comparable to ramen except with egg noodles and topped with chicken or shrimp. And then there’s also crispy fried noodles on top with shallots and some mustard greens. So it’s a really an unusual dish but it’s something that I will always gravitate towards especially in this chilly weather since it’s warm and spicy. If I had to eat one thing for the rest of my life, I think Khao Soi would be it.
W27: What inspires you everyday and
W27: What is your next goal?
W27: Can you give us a brief explanation on your job as VP of operations?
Photo courtesy of voiceglance.com ZK: I am in charge of the actual performance of all of our domestic Shake Shacks and increasing efficiency and excellence of the restaurants. In addition to that, I also lead the entire management team. W27: What is your favorite thing on the Shake Shack menu? ZK: Shack burger with pickles. W27: What makes Shake Shack different from all the other burger chains out there?
JB: That is a difficult question, but I really love spicy food. When I am at home, which is not often because I am always at the restaurant, I love to cook spicy food. However, I think my all time favorite dish is something that I had in Thailand. It’s called Khao Soi.
JB: You know, there’s a saying for parents: Give your child roots from the ground and wings to fly. So this is always something that has resonated with me and the way that I cook. I cook with a lot of vegetables (something that comes from the ground, exemplifying roots) and bones for anything that moves. We just thought that was a nice balance, kind of like yin and yang, and wanted to accommodate to everyone—including vegan and vegetarian customers. That was really important to us. We’re not just a fried chicken restaurant; we want to cater to everyone. For example, we have different kinds of salads, deviled eggs, and even dishes that incorporate mushrooms.
Randy and I kept in touch. Randy reached out to me and asked if I wanted to open up a Shake Shack restaurant at Miami Beach, being the third restaurant in the company and the first time that they ever opened up outside of New York City. So I became the director of operations for the Florida region. It was an incredible way for me to learn how to translate this incredible New York brand outside to another area. From there on, I took on Washington D.C. and Philadelphia. After those accomplishments, Randy asked me to be the VP of operations to oversee the entire operation of our company.
Photo courtesy of causemarketingforum.com
Photo courtesy of grubstreet.com W27: How did you get involved with Shake Shack and how did you become the VP of Operations? Zach Koff: I met Randy Garutti, who is our CEO, at Cornell University where I went for my undergraduate studies. Back then Randy was working for Union Square Hospitality Group when they only had four or five restaurants. Afterwards, I became an intern and got to know Randy. Then I actually worked for another restaurant group for eight years and during those years was when Shake Shack was being created. Over those years,
ZK: A couple things for sure. I think we are the only burger restaurant that was born from not planning to be a chain. From the very beginning, all the energy was put into opening up this one restaurant, which happened to be serving frozen custard and burgers. It was never meant to be this massive company. I think that a lot of other people set out to be massive, and we set out to have just one incredible moment. What we learned from that is that we could actually re create that incredible moment every time we open up a new restaurant. And I don’t think that other burger brands do that. W27: Do you guys have any plans to venture out to other places like the West Coast? ZK: The world is a collection of amazing cities, and I think every one of them deserves a Shake Shack. Every time we travel and look at other places whether it’s the West Coast or the East Coast, we always leave thinking “Man, this town could really use a Shake Shack.” However, we cannot exactly reveal our next plans W27: What inspires you every day?
HAUTE CULTURE ZK: People. When working at Shake Shack, these people put their best effort and energy into what they do… that inspires me every single day. The fact that they give up themselves to help perpetuate this incredible company is amazing. That gets me going all day long.
ago, I started putting energy behind this idea and things started falling into place. When that happened I thought, “Ok, I am going to do it – I am going to open a restaurant.” But then I realized it was more than a restaurant – what we
W27: What is your definition of success? ZK: My definition of success is when the people I work with feel successful in what they do.
Photo courtesy of Seed + Salt’s flickr
W27: What is your definition of leadership? ZK: I think there’s just an accountability when really standing for something good. You have to be able to represent the core beliefs of your company and in everything that you do. When you do that consistently and when people see and recognize that, then the people believe in you and they follow you. W27: What is your next goal? ZK: My next goal for Shake Shack is to just continue to deliver all the promises we made to everyone. My job is to actually fulfill these goals. For me personally, I just want to take a vacation. W27: What is your ultimate advice for people who are aspiring to go into management? ZK: I would say that if you are going into management, you just have to know that you are there to serve the people that are working harder below you. If you’re not working as hard as the people that you’re managing, you’ll never go anywhere.
MO CLANCY, OWNER OF SEED + SALT: W27: When did you envision yourself
were creating was a brand, a lifestyle, a community. It was really intimidating and exciting at the same time. But I pushed myself way out of my comfort zone and I have never regretted it. W27: Tell us about your new restaurant—Seed+Salt. MC: Seed+Salt offers food that is “clean.” This means it is organic, plant based, whole foods that are gluten free, dairy free, and cane sugar free with no GMOs. We don’t use anything processed or without integrity. It’s seasonal, delicious, and chef - driven. And lastly, it is served in a very convenient, casual environment so it’s easy. My goal was to create a place that people would want to eat every day and that’s what is happening. We have customers who come in daily for their Eggplant BLT or to try another one of Chef Ariel Nadelbergs’s seasonal salads or soups. Or sometimes it is just a Gamechanger Green juice or our Almond Chocolate Chip Cookie. Whatever the case, we see a lot of the same (happy) faces everyday. The other thing to say about Seed + Salt is that we get a lot of comments on Yelp about our team and how everyone is friendly/helpful. I was really tired of going into places and getting an attitude like, “We have good food and you’re lucky to be eating it.” We want to create an inviting and community - oriented haven where people feel good because of the food and the people serving it. W27: What does this restaurant mean to you and what is the meaning behind the name? MC: The restaurant means everything to me. I have put my heart and soul into it because it comes from a really personal place. We really believe in what we are doing and we have kept a lot of integrity in all of the aspects of what we do. It feels good when people come to me looking to work at Seed + Salt because they want to be part of something that means a lot. My team and I really care about what we are building and I think it shows.
Photo courtesy of Seed + Salt’s flickr
going into the food/management industry? Mo Clancy: Actually, I had never envisioned this path. If you would have told me 5 years ago that I would own a restaurant I would have laughed. It really was born out of my own need that wasn’t being met – to find convenient, delicious, organic clean food. About three years
W27: What inspires you every day? MC: There are a couple things that inspire me every day. First, my son, Magellan. I look at his face every day and I think “What am I trying to teach him? What is the legacy I want to leave for him?” It makes me willing to take the risks for what I believe in. Secondly, my team inspires me. I am so lucky to have a group of people who care so much about this brand. Not everyone is so lucky.
W27: How did you make it in a competitive industry? ZK: You have to be honest, you have to be true, and you have to absolutely elevate those around you.
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In terms of the name, that was one of the hardest things we did. Chef Ariel and I worked with a bunch of talented, creative people for about four months, batting around names and throwing them all away. One day we made a list and just started crossing things off and this was the name left. And then we were like, “Of course!” Seeds are the foundation for all plant based foods. Salt is the foundation of flavor. It made sense because at our restaurant, we are going back to the basics – the foundation of real food.
Lastly, I am a very visual person so beauty matters to me. I come from a fashion background so I am always influenced by fashion’s cultural. Natural beauty also really inspires me. I am so lucky to live in one of the most incredibly beautiful places on Earth. I just have to look around here and I get inspired. W27: What is your definition of success? MC: It’s changed a lot over the years. The truth is that I used to think it was about money and how many people I knew. I know it sounds terrible but that is an honest answer. But when I had those things, none of it really mattered that much. Now I have a different perspective. Am I doing something I believe in? Do I spend time with the people I love? Have a been a good role model for my team? Is my son happy? Am I creating from the heart? These are my barometers of success these days. W27: What motivates you to work hard? MC: My son, my team, my customers. W27: This is a very simple question but it might be a little difficult as you work with food and you live and breathe food. What is your all time favorite dish, and why? MC: I tend to gravitate to simple, clean flavors that really just highlight the ingredients. My favorite thing of all time is something my grandmother used to make me as a kid –carrots baked in cinnamon. My grandmother was way ahead of her time – she recycled, exercised daily and ate only out of her garden. She would pick the carrots and put them right in the pan. W27: What is your next goal? MC: My goal is to make Seed + Salt a more macro concept. That means that it becomes something that lives outside four walls, in forms such as packaged goods, supplements and online retail…or who knows, beauty and fashion? W27: What is your advice to future restaurateurs and entrepreneurs? MC: I don’t know if this advice is just for restaurant entrepreneurs – it probably could apply to any entrepreneur. When you try something that hasn’t been done before, there will be people lined up to tell you why it’s a bad idea, why you don’t have enough experience, why it won’t work. Don’t listen to all of those people – listen to your gut. Your gut will tell you everything you need to know.
FIT SPEAKS The Thing About Interning by Dana Heyward
“Are you interning?” “What days do you intern?” “Where?” These are some of the most common questions circulating among the Fashion Institute of Technology student community. Earning a coveted internship at that top tier magazine, or that high end showroom, or that media brand some might willingly sacrifice a limb over for a job, is undeniably embedded within our school culture. To have an internship while at FIT is equated with having a real grip on your goals.
M.B. told W27. “Other interns would come and go. So many of the girls would come one day and never come back the next. They couldn’t take it and neither could I.” Though she was tempted to quit she ended up staying due to the fact that she was doing the internship for required credits. And sometimes credits do trump sanity. The following year she decided to give it another go by working as a styling intern at the online retailer, Vaunte.
“After being there for a week, all I did But from our was pack and exchanges and Photo courtesy of nytimes.com unpack boxes conversations about again. Three other internship experiences we learn that interns around me said they were hired sometimes those dream internships turn for different positions as well,” M.B. out to be not so dreamy. We’ve all heard explained, “From 9:30 AM - 5:30 PM internship horror stories where one’s we would sit there unpacking boxes and literal blood, sweat and tears have been entering the information into the system. invested in an internship. But you never After two weeks I never showed back up quite think about it happening to you again. I couldn’t suffer from depression until it does. because of an internship again. “ Advertising and Marketing Communications sophomore Nicole felt like she herself scored the dream internship when she landed a position as a fashion closet intern at Marie Claire. “It would be fun,” she thought.
A lot of these stories turn into the discussion of whether it’s really all worth it. Are we really working towards something and just paying our supposed dues? Or simply just doing thankless grunt work that means nothing in the workforce?
But “fun” soon turned into 9 AM to 9 PM days, full of running and picking up clothing from showrooms throughout the city, memorizing the Starbucks orders of staff and picking up prescriptions and Christmas presents.
While Nicole’s experience at Marie Claire wasn’t exactly glamorous she doesn’t deny that she’s learned a few things.
“If someone like Nina Garcia was in the fashion closet, speaking wasn’t even an option. Along with moving, looking and breathing,” Nicole admitted. “By the last two weeks of the internship, all of my intern counterparts had either finished or quit - leaving a ten person job at the busiest time of year all to yours truly,” said Nicole. “How I made it through that during finals week with only a pale complexion as evidence of how emotionally and physically drained I was, must have been a miracle by God himself.” M.B.*, an Advertising and Marketing Communications senior, had a similar less - than - ideal internship experience while working as a fashion/entertainment department intern at the New York Daily News. “By the end of each day I wanted to cry. I was learning nothing and was spending my days packing and unpacking boxes,”
“I learned so much about verbal and e-mail communication, the fashion industry, fashion publications and even a better sense of direction,” Nicole claimed, “Just make sure you tread lightly because you may not always gain the contacts you wanted or the experience you expected.” From fellows classmates’ stories and my own experiences I’ve come to the conclusion that even in the worst internships, there’s always that one element that makes you think, “I may actually get through this.” Sometimes it’s your fellow interns with whom you build a camaraderie over shared sleepless nights and newfound dark circles. Maybe it’s that super - friendly security guy that gives you the extra willpower to get through the day. Or maybe it’s just the credits that you so desperately need. While it may be dim, flickering or sometimes in disguise, there’s definitely some kind of light at the end of that dark, dark, tunnel.
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Fusion Fashion Show FIT x Parsons Fashion Institute of Technology Wins Fusion 2015
Parsons The New School Collection
Hayley Byfield Best Designer @ FIT
Photo courtesy of Vicky Mathew
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MARCH 2015
The Code in the Couture: How 3D Printing is Changing the Fashion Industry by Dara Kenigsberg
With technology advancing exponentially, 3D printing is growing in relevance and utility across industrial and consumer sectors. An application used solely by architects and engineers for decades, innovators in the fashion world have taken this technology to a whole new level by introducing mostly avant - garde and haute couture 3D printed clothing and even jewelry. With its growth in popularity, we are now on the verge of a huge change in how fashion is sold, as 3D printing looks set to become something consumers can do in their own homes. Often leaders in the fashion world, pop stars around the world have been using 3D printing for quite some time, experiencing first - hand its unique and limitless capabilities. For Katy Perry’s 2015 Prismatic Tour, which included a half - time performance at Superbowl XLIX, backup dancers were fitted with customized helmets with 3D printed, illuminated mohawks. Giland Gans, President of the North American Division of Stratasys, told engineering.com, “In the case of Katy Perry’s headpieces, the ability to 3D print personalized one - off parts, customized to each dancer, is a perfect example of how the future of manufacturing is moving towards mass customization.” While other artists, like London based indie - rock group Klaxon who just launched their 3D - printed equipment tour, may simply be using this technology to create sets and wardrobes, Will.i.am, formerly of the Black Eyed Peas, is both advocating for it and creating his own products with it. In 2014, he became the chief creative officer of 3D Systems, a 3D printing company, and has been working on a line of 3D printed clothing and bicycles called Ekocycle, sponsored by Coca Cola. His other ventures into 3D printing include iPhone camera cases and the Puls Smartwatch. He told TheGuardian.com, “In 20 years, you’ll be able to print a new kidney. You’ll have a machine that prints your genome with proteins that are right for your body. 3D printers will change how we make things, how we fix and heal things. To eat beef and wear leather, you need a lot of land and water for cows. In the next 20 years, we’ll be able to print beef and leather instead.” Perhaps a little far - fetched, he also believes that 3D printing will eventually expand to printing people, and so humanity will be responsible for coming up with new moral codes. Considered a pioneer of 3D printed fashion, Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen first used this technology in her 2010 Crystallization Collection. The following year, Time Magazine included one of her dresses in its list of 50 Best Inventions of 2011. She has since continued to push the boundaries, especially with her most recent collection shown at Paris Fashion Week. Her SS 15 collection, titled “Magnetic Motion,” was inspired by the oppositional forces of magnets, and it included clothing in black, white, midnight blue and nude that mirrored the movements of her models. To make
“3D PRINTERS WILL CHANGE HOW WE MAKE THINGS, HOW WE FIX AND HEAL THINGS” the shoes and accessories for this line, Van Herpen put down layers of metal and pulled them in different directions with magnets, which resulted in various stalactite textures. Francis Bitonti, the Brooklyn based architect - cum - designer, also incorporates 3D printing technologies into his collections. In 2013, he made headlines when he customized a 3D printed dress for burlesque star Dita Von Teese that had over 12,000 Swarovski crystals and 3,000 moving parts. He has always believed that 3D printing could be used for more than just prototyping, and that it has production capabilities as well. Innovations in the types of materials used in 3D printing are making this a reality, changing the landscape for designers, manufacturers and consumers. According to BusinessInsider. com, “With the recent introduction of multi - material, multi - color printing (at a more accessible price point) trends within 3D printed fashion are moving away from the rigid, white 3D printed nylon structures and towards pieces that look more real.” In 2014, Bitonti collaborated with design students to create another 3D printed gown using clear, flexible PLA filaments, which he called the “Bristle Dress.” He went one step further by making the design open - source, so that anyone with a MakerBot printer can download the CAD file, customize it and then print it themselves. Also in 2014, the brand Continuum Fashion teamed up with industrial printing company Shapeways to create the first ever 3D printed bikini, the N12. Available for purchase from Continuum’s Shapeway Shop online, this represents the first affordable design available for mass purchase and customization. It is also the first bikini that becomes more comfortable when it gets wet. A circle patterning system was used to create the bikini so that it can adapt to any surface at any size. According to Shapeways.com, “This means that future articles of clothing can be made using the same algorithm; this could be taken a step further into absolute customization by using a body scan to make a bespoke article of clothing, 3D printed to exactly fit that person only.” This year, Italian design company Gruppo Meccaniche Luciani introduced a line of wearables that was created using “multi - color, multi - material 3D printing capabilities,” according to 3dprintingindustry.com, that was “inspired by naturally occurring curves with a futuristic twist,” and includes, “three pairs of shoes, a bag, bracelet and top, featuring vibrant colors from bright pink to contrasting monochrome, along with complex rigid and soft material combinations.” Each item, though complex and intricately designed, was 3D printed in one build because of
the printer’s ability to combine alternate densities of rigid and soft materials. This is especially advantageous in the shoe world because it is much faster than traditional prototyping, which doesn’t allow for things like boots or bags to be made quickly without a sample mold. The top was made from different types of soft materials that can be worn in direct contact with the skin. In the past, this would have required manual manufacturing, and each material would have needed to be assembled individually. This provides designers with the ability to 3D print prototypes in a few hours, make any necessary changes, and then 3D print the final product. Davide Ferulli, Stratasys’ Italian Territory Manager, said, “Where designers were previously restricted by the limitations of traditional techniques – especially for the production of complex shapes – the precision now available through our most advanced 3D printers grants them the means to bring their creative ideas to life with incredible realism.” Though we are a few years away from having high - quality 3D printers in the majority of homes, the idea of the consumer as the manufacturer could present problems with intellectual property and counterfeiting as well. According to twobirds.com, “Exemptions from some types of IP infringement for personal use, combined with the practical and PR difficulties of pursuing individual consumers, means that fashion brands are likely to seek to enforce their rights against those higher up the fashion food chain.” If anyone can order a CAD file online to print at home through a file sharing service, they can also infringe on these design files. One answer may lie in appropriating the same strategies that the music and film industry did, which entails getting injunctions that require ISP’s block access to sites that offer infringing design files that can be used for 3D printing. Also, because 3D printing allows for bespoke clothing at the click of a button, as consumer demand and capabilities increase, so too will a brand’s desire to protect their designs against counterfeiters. By trade marking them, not only will the designs be more easily distinguished, but trademark owners will also be able to take legal action if necessary. According to Fashionista.com, the “issues are very similar to those that plagued the music industry when the Internet made way for illegal file sharing and illegal downloading. And the solution could be similar – an iTunes or Spotify for fashion.” Legal concerns aside, when and if 3D printing technologies expand to effectively produce fabric clothing will likely be a huge determinant of the direction it takes. Until then, this is all just hypothetical.
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Month In Review:
Young Humanitarian Kayla Mueller Murdered By Isis, Eulogized For Her Idealism By President Obama by Dara kenigsberg
On February 6, Carl and Marsha Mueller got the worst news of their lives. They were contacted by ISIS and told that their daughter Kayla, whom the terrorist group had been holding captive, was dead. For the next four days, the Muellers agonized over whether this was true or not, until it was sadly confirmed on February 10, when American authorities were able to verify the information. ISIS declared on Twitter that she had been buried in the rubble of a compound hit by a Jordanian airstrike near Raqqa, Syria; a claim that both the White House and Jordan said was unfounded. The Muellers, who had pleaded with the extremist organization to contact them privately with proof of their daughter’s death, were sent at least three photographs of her corpse. US officials said that there is no real indication of how or when she died. According to TheGuardian.com, “The suspicion is that they had already killed her and rolled out this story as a response to the Jordanian attacks.” Whatever the truth may be, she died at the hands of ISIS. In 2009, after graduating from Northern Arizona University, Ms. Mueller set out to travel to places where people were most in need. She simply wanted to help others in any way she could. In the four years between her graduation and kidnapping, she lived in the U.S., Cairo, Turkey, Israel, Palestine, Africa, and France, volunteering in different capacities everywhere she went. In late 2012, she and her boyfriend, Omar Alkahni (not his real name), a Syrian activist and photojournalist, moved to the Turkish border to work with refugees. Ms. Mueller began working as a consultant for Support to Life, a humanitarian group, and Mr. Alkhani began travelling into Syria on photo assignments. Her desk job frustrated her because she wanted to have direct contact with the refugees and hear their stories. On August 3, 2013, despite Mr. Alkhani’s protests that it was too dangerous, she accompanied him to Aleppo, Syria. He was supposed to bring and install Internet equipment to a hospital run by Medicins Sans Frontieres (MSF), a Spanish aid agency. The staff was reportedly very uncomfortable having
an American there and Mr. Alkhani believes that someone inside the hospital must have snitched to ISIS that they were there. According to TheGuardian. com, “He had no proof somebody tipped off ISIS but it was the only explanation for why gunman ambushed the couple soon after leaving the hospital.” While waiting for a bus back to Turkey on August 4, both Ms. Mueller and Mr. Alkhani were captured by ISIS, but he was later released most likely because he is Syrian and thus of little value to them. This marked the first day of the end of her life. Little is known about the year and a half she was imprisoned by ISIS. Shortly after Mr. Alkahni was released, he returned to Syria and pled for his girlfriend’s release. Unbeknownst to Ms. Mueller, he claimed that they were married, but when asked, she denied having a husband, unwittingly foiling his plan. Her parents turned to Senator John McCain and U.S. Representative Paul Gosar for help early on. They both made numerous attempts on her behalf but neither got very far. In July, the U.S. government had undertaken a rescue operation but they missed her by a few days, finding only a few strands of her hair. The Muellers were furious because the government had first gotten intelligence on her location from France in March but waited to act on it because it was from a foreign source. Also in July, ISIS sent an e-mail to the Muellers saying that they were going to kill their daughter in one month. Instead, however, a video of James Foley (who was held captive alongside her) being beheaded was released in August and Ms. Mueller’s fate was unknown. A short time after, ISIS demanded a $5 million ransom for Ms. Mueller, but it is American policy not to pay ransom to terrorists. They then requested a prisoner exchange for Aafia Siddiqui, a Massachusetts Institute of Technology trained scientist in prison in the U.S. after being accused of working with al Qaeda and convicted of attempting to kill Americans. The government denied this as well.
Last May, however, Army Sgt. Bowe Bergdahl, who had been captured and held by the Taliban for five years after going AWOL in Afghanistan, was released in exchange for the Taliban 5, all of whom are extremely dangerous commanders in the organization. The Muellers hoped their daughter would get the same kind of consideration, but because she is a regular citizen, not a soldier, she did not, a clear double standard on the administration’s policy about not negotiating with terrorists. In an interview with the “Today Show,” Ms. Mueller’s brother Eric said that the situation got worse after the swap “because that’s when the demands got greater. They got larger. They realized they had something.” (Recent reports indicate that ISIS raised the ransom to over $6 million.) Carl Mueller added the U.S. government put policy ahead of American lives and that they didn’t do everything they could have to get his daughter back. Diane Foley, James Foley’s mother, echoed this sentiment. If anything is to be learned from this tragedy, one must simply look at all the good Ms. Mueller did and try and emulate the type of life she lived. Those who knew her well say she always put others before herself, even while she was held captive. In one of her few letters home during that time, she told her parents that her only suffering was in knowing how much pain she was putting them through. All she ever wanted was to end other people’s suffering, and in the end, she suffered for it. President Obama said, “Kayla represents what is best about America... She used these freedoms she so cherished to improve the lives of others. In how she lived her life, she epitomized all that is good in our world. She has been taken from us, but her legacy endures, inspiring all those who fight, each in their own way, for what is just and what is decent. No matter how long it takes, the United States will find and bring to justice the terrorists who are responsible for Kayla’s captivity and death.”
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Teen ISIS Brides: A Look at How Women in ISIS Use Social Media as a Recruitment Tool by Dara kenigsberg
On the morning of February 17, British schoolgirls Shamima Begum, 15, Amira Abase, 15, and Kadiza Sultana, 16, kissed their parents goodbye like it was any other day, only to board a plane a few hours later to Istanbul. The runaway teenagers are believed to have since crossed the border into Syria to marry ISIS militants. The three girls attended Bethnal Green Academy in East London together and were all A students. They have been described as book smart but naïve and vulnerable. All three were said to be good friends with another 15 - year old girl from their school who fled to Syria to join ISIS in December. At the time of her disappearance, police questioned the girls, as well as other students at the school, to see if they had any intelligence regarding the situation. They were met with confusion and sadness, which indicated to police that there was no reason to believe they knew about it or would follow in her footsteps. Abase Hussen, Amira Abase’s father, has since told the press that the morning his daughter left for London Gatwick Airport to fly to Turkey, she had told him she was going to a wedding and would be gone all day. He remembers her behavior as normal and according to the DailyMail. co.uk, “She said ‘Daddy I’m in a hurry,” and that “there was no sign to suspect her
at all.” Before pleading to his daughter to return at Scotland Yard Headquarters, he also said that she had never discussed Syrian politics with anyone in the family, and when he asked her about her friend back in December, she said she “felt sad for her.” Authorities believe that 20 - year old Asqa Mahmood, who fled her comfortable life in Glasgow, Scotland in November of 2013, recruited one of the teens, Shamima Begum, via Twitter. One morning, after dropping out of medical school, Mahmood kissed her father goodbye like always and never went back. Four days later, she called her parents as she was crossing the border into Syria to join ISIS and since repeatedly shown up on social media encouraging others to become an ISIS bride like herself, lauding extremist ideology and calling for more attacks on the West. Mahmood has written guides on how to cross the border specifically if you are a woman, how to be a war widow and doled out tips on what to pack for Syria. In one of her tweets from last November, she wrote that if anyone needed her help following in her footsteps, to contact her on social media. Begum did just that and asked if she would message her privately, during which Mahmood may have arranged for them to meet in Syria.
Unfortunately, this is part of a growing trend of young women being recruited to ISIS. According to TheGuardian.com, “Many as young as 14 or 15 are travelling mainly to Syria to marry jihadis, bear their children and join communities of fighters, with a small number taking up arms. Many are recruited via social media.” The majority of these recruits come from France (there have been 63 which makes up about 25% of the total). Around 50 have come from the UK and at least 40 from Germany. Only two from Austria have been confirmed but authorities believe there are more. The youngest so far has been 13 years old. Most of them come from loving and well - to - do families, have graduated from university and are between 16 and 24 - years old. They use social media as a way to control the narrative. By portraying Syria and their lives as ISIS brides in a positive light, they are romanticizing what is really going on there. ISIS militants have been known to rape and brutalize women and their wives. Additionally, Western women who join ISIS live to serve their husbands, whom they must refer to as their masters, cooking, cleaning and raising a family. Their fundamental role is laid out in a manifesto called, ‘Women in the Islamic State,’ which was released by members of the Al - Khansa Brigade, ISIS’s women - only police force. According to the
DailyMail.co.uk, it “is largely made - up of educated Western women and is believed to operate as an ultra - oppressive police force monitoring the behavior of females in Raqqa.” The document also claims “children as young as nine should be encouraged to get married and condemns beauty parlors as the work of the devil… [It] demands women live a completely sedentary lifestyle and that their role in life is to remain hidden and veiled.” ISIS is recruiting women more aggressively than any other terrorist organization and they are using social media to do it. Sadly, Americans are not immune to this and combatting it is very difficult. Anti - terrorism agencies can’t do it without the help of everyday citizens and families paying attention and looking for changes in behavior. There are simply too many channels that can be used and countless posts, with more popping up each day. Add that to the fact that the government can’t trample on first amendment rights, and the situation becomes even more precarious. Michael Steinbach, the head of the FBI’s counter - terrorism division, told CNN.com, “We don’t have a desire or a right to step on anyone’s freedom of expression. They have a right to express their opinion. But when that opinion turns into violent rhetoric and then into action, that’s something different.”
Recruiting Our Youth: How ISIS Lures Young Westerners to Pledge Their Loyalty by Dara kenigsberg
Counter - terrorism experts agree that approximately 3,000 Westerners have traveled to Iraq and Syria to join ISIS. More than 700 come from France, making up the majority; at least 500 are from the UK and over 100 are from the US. Some have even returned. According to CNN.com, “Some of the foreign fighters may not return as terrorists to their respective countries, but all of them will have been exposed to an environment of sustained radicalization and violence with unknowable but worrying consequences.” For the majority of Westerners, the idea of giving up the comforts of your own life and going to fight in one of the most dangerous places in the world sounds crazy. So how is this happening? Because recruits are often young – and sometimes disillusioned – many of them are still trying to figure out who they are. They are looking for a purpose in life and a way to make their mark, and recruiters take advantage of this lack of a sense of identity. In a report called, “Foreign Fighters in Syria,” Richard Barrett of The Soufan Group wrote, “The general picture provided by foreign fighters of their lives in Syria suggests camaraderie, good morale and purposeful activity, all mixed in with a sense of understated heroism, designed to attract their friends as well as to boost their own self - esteem.” These young people generally feel like they don’t
belong and ISIS offers them exactly what they have been missing. ISIS also appeals to a sense of religious obligation and even idealism in some cases. On social media, ISIS often posts messages that say you have to join because it is your religious duty. Unfortunately, this is very misguided. Aki Peritz, a former CIA officer, told Chicago’s WGN network, “What the jihadis are pushing is a specific narrative, which is: Your people (Muslims) are being oppressed in this place called Syria; your government is doing nothing; we’re the only ones who are actually going to help you out. Why don’t you join the fight?” Those who acquiesce falsely believe ISIS is helping people and that they are going to do so as well. For some, dying as a martyr and having a magnificent afterlife is reason enough. Steve Hassan, founder of Freedom of Mind, an organization that exposes cult behavior and destructive cults themselves, has pointed out that the control ISIS exerts is cult - like. Upon hearing an ISIS propaganda tape, he was reminded of the Jim Jones cult saying, ‘Come to Jonestown. It’s a paradise. It’s wonderful.’ He told CNN.com, “This is a political cult using religion and a perversion of Islam as the shield. But in fact it’s a systematic effort to create an army of basically tranced - out - followers.” ISIS also makes great promises to its
recruits about the type of life they will have. Asqa Mahmood, the young woman who left Scotland in 2013 to join ISIS and marry a militant, has become a prominent figure on social media and within the women’s side of the organization. In return for loyalty, Mahmood said in one of her posts that you will get gifts from Allah including, “a house with free electricity and water provided to you due to the Khilafa (the caliphate) and no rent included.” To dispel any misconceptions young women may have, she also wrote, “You can find shampoos, soap and other female necessities here, so do not stress if you think you will be experiencing some cavewoman life here.” ISIS gives these young women the idea that they will be treated like princesses by their jihadi husbands and simultaneously promises young men that they will have women to take care of their every need. Perhaps the greatest reason for their recruitment success is how they use social media. Jen Psaki, a spokeswoman for the U.S. State Department told CNN, “ISIL’s propaganda machine is something we have not seen before.” Even when they are losing on the battlefield, they are winning on the Internet because they are producing fantastically slick videos that put across their ideas and are very seductive to a generation of young men that have been raised on video games. In September, they released a short mash - up clip that looked like an action movie trailer, showing
American troops engulfed in flames and slow - motion explosions. Another hour - long video depicted executions, bombings, kidnappings, even a roadside bomb that blasted a vehicle into the sky. Also, by using platforms like Twitter, Facebook and WhatsAPP, they are able to effectively reach their target audience, often capitalizing on popular hashtags to spread their message. The secondary advantage is that they use Western recruits to recruit more Westerners. And because their networks are so spread out, oftentimes not even under U.S. jurisdiction, there is no direct way to shut them down. Maajid Nawaz, a former jihadi and author of “Radical: My Journey Out of Islamist Extremism,” told CNN last year that, “We are way behind. They are far superior and advanced than we are when it comes to media technologies.” They have outwitted every attempt Western governments have made to stop them and the situation is only becoming more dire. The FBI and Department of Homeland Security just issued a bulletin to law enforcement agencies across the country about concern over the growing trend of teenagers wanting to go to Syria and join ISIS. According to Newsmax.com, “There is a dynamic threat. There’s not one particular path to radicalization; there’s not one particular path to violence.”
FIT SPEAKS
Yoonyoung Jang - Textile/surface Design - In 20 years I think America will use a lot more organic ingredients for making products and food.
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Sarah Che - Textile/surface Design - In 20 years I think America will focus more on sustainable design and be more eco friendly.
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Elena Kibalchich - Fashion Design - In 20 years I hope that we all do the production in America and not overseas.
STYLE ON 27 Photography by Vicky Mathew
Jessi Lembo - Photography - I hope to see people who are more self aware and with more empathy. With social media we are essentially communicating more, so hopefully we can start to understand each other more.
Daecery Cayetano - FMM - In 20 years, I hope to see more black women in the fashion industry taking on leadership jobs such as editor in chief and CEOs.
Where do you see America 20 years from now?
Anthony Stratis - Fashion Design - In 20 years I hope to see less ignorance and more peace in our country.
Han Chien Wu - Accessory design - In 20 years, I hope America is more “freelancer friendly� where designers can both produce and sell their own products without needing a major retailer behind them.
Alison Antario - Photography - In 20 years I see America relying more heavily on social media. I think people will become more dependent on smart phones for information.