Boyds Fall 2008 issue by Wainscot Media

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BOYDS FALL 2008

FALL FASHION

Casual Elegance Modern Edge And More ...

PREFERRED CUSTOMER

GIFT CARDS ENCLOSED

Aston Martin soups it up

Where to stay on ANGUILLA

Giorgio Armani gets personal

UTAH POWDER 6 dream runs

Boyds Loyalists share style secrets

Celebrating

70 YEARS

of Dressing Philadelphia

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Nothing looks like a Bentley. Nothing performs like a Bentley. Nothing a Bentley. Nothing a Bentley. And withlooks infinitelike permutations of colorperforms and trim, like no two are alike. And with infinite permutations of color and trim, no two are alike. Call Bentley Palmyra for a fitting. Call Bentley Palmyra for a fitting. BENTLEY PALMYRA NEW JERSEY F.C. KERBECK BENTLEY PALMYRA NEW JERSEY 100 73, Palmyra, NJ 08065 F.C. Route KERBECK ForRoute information call NJ 856 829 8200 or visit www.fckerbeck.com 100 73, Palmyra, 08065 For information call 856 829 8200 or visit www.fckerbeck.com ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B in wings’ device are registered trademarks. © 2008 Bentley Motors, Inc.

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BOSS Black

HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600 www.hugoboss.com

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Page 12

144

features Boyds Stories Fall Floral

8 loyal customers tell what brings them back to Boyds.

Nature’s palette colors this season’s bountiful selection.

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Mirror, Mirror ...

A looking glass with panache reflects both the style and substance of your home. ~-~ ~-~

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In Good Company

From the corner office to an intimate corner table, smart sartorial choices will make your personal stock rise. ~-~ ~-~

Modern Edge

Crisp lines and minimalist details set the scene.

Casually Refined

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Ward off the season’s first chill with distinction.

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License to Thrill

Sleek, seductive and ultra-muscular, the Aston Martin DBS is the fastest production model to date from this classic marque. ~-~ ~-

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The Height of Style Take your look to the next level with the fashions of B3, found on Boyds’ third floor. ~-~ ~-~

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Pampered on Anguilla Five-star resort or private villa? Ian Keown compares two ways of doing Anguilla, the island favored by gourmets. ~-~ A Special Occasion Timeless Elegance

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FALL • WINTER 2008

Celebratory evenings call for exquisite attire.

These graceful styles span the ages.

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Cover:

Brioni twobutton side-vented suit, cotton shirt, print tie, Etro floral jersey dress, Chimento drop earrings from Govberg Jewelers

Keenan & Kody

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columns The Sporting Life Skiing six mountains in six days is easy, thanks to the nearness of superior resorts in Utah’s Wasatch Range.

170

Grape

departments Invitation to Style There’s only one Boyds.

180

Inspire envy with these verdant options.

Dressing Philadelphia for 70 years

The world’s northernmost distillery brings forth the world’s best whisky, or so say many critics. We put Highland Park to the test.

Walk This Way

180

From sneakers to wingtips, this season’s footwear gives you style and sole.

THE

DESIGNER:

Giorgio Armani

Top men’s fashions for autumnal elegance

6 Picks for Fall A haute handful of selections to guide you through the season

2008

Malt

MEET

Lucky 7

FALL • WINTER

176

Sublime Limey … A world of time … Raw refreshment … Hot tot spot … Trunk shows to try … Specs you don’t expect … Cufflinks with élan … and more!

Sweet fall fashions that are ripe for the picking

Going Green

Memorable moments from Boyds’ history

Perfectly Plum

The Boyds Guide

Domaine de Mourchon, a Scotsman’s unlikely retirement project, is producing standout Côtes du Rhône Villages.

He worked a quiet revolution in the way we dress. Here’s what you don’t know about a name the world knows well.

Finishing Touch We know the principles of behavior embraced by the fair sex. Isn’t it time for the not-so-fair sex to have its say?

184

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alfred dunhill, equipping gentlemen since 1893.

sentryman family a new family of writing instruments and accessories, inspired by the iconic british pillar box

ÂŠ 2008 alfred dunhill

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AN HERMÈS WATCH HAS TIME ON ITS SIDE

ARCEAU WATCH IN WHITE GOLD WITH DIAMONDS

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1818 Chestnut Street Philadelphia - 215.546.6505

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B O Y D S

{ invitation to style }

1818 CHESTNUT STREET · PHILADELPHIA

2 1 5 . 5 6 4 . 9 0 0 0 w w w. b o y d s p h i l a . c o m MONDAY

to SATURDAY: 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

WEDNESDAY:

Editor & Publisher MARK DOWDEN

MARKING

MILESTONE

Creative Director AMY A. DOWDEN Fashion Editor ALYSSA DEVORE Associate Fashion Editors MICHAEL

As we begin to celebrate our 70th

CUTONE, FRAN D’AMBROSIO, SEAN GENERAL

anniversary, we have good reason to

Contributing Editors JENNIFER CENICOLA,

reflect on how far we’ve come since

CYNTHIA HURLEY, TIMOTHY KELLEY, IAN KEOWN, MARIA LISSANDRELLO, FRANCESCA MOISIN

our doors first opened. While Boyds has grown and evolved,

our

core

ideals

MICHAEL DOUCETTE, MICHAEL DWORNIK, DANIEL SPRINGSTON

remained unchanged. There are no

Art Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO

demographic breakdowns and no

Art Assistant LAURA CARAMAGNA

shareholders to answer to. Our customers are not points on a graph. We have one store. The same one

Sneak

Contributing Photographers

have

No, that’s not Kent, Jeff, Ralph and friends circa 1974. The

RITA GUARNA

a long way since the double-knit polyester years!

SHAE MARCUS

by the same family for 70 years. And when you know customers by

Advertising Account Executive

see page 34

JENNIFER DOSS

Advertising Sales Assistant

In this age of mass merchandising, when so many retail stores

ASHLEY MCFADDEN

look the same, we focus on providing our customers with exclusive

Production Manager CHRISTINE HAMEL

merchandise. We are proud to offer one of the country’s largest selec-

Advertising Services Manager THOMAS RAGUSA

tions of fine men’s and women’s designer fashions. After all, such

Advertising Coordinator KATHY GJOKAJ

quality is what our customers have come to expect—from the $2.25

Production Assistant CHRISTINA FALLIVENE

sportshirts of the ‘40s, to the leisure suits of the ‘70s, to the luxurious

Senior Art Director, Agency Services KIJOO KIM

fabrications and designers of today. Ruff cuffs

National Advertising Manager

that has been owned and operated their names and individual tastes, demographics just seem silly. PEEKS

Corporate Editorial Director

photo is from a Boyds catalog of that era. We’ve come

Our commitment to service is unwavering; from free custom alterations and re-alterations to complimentary valet parking, not to mention personal shopping and knowledgeable sales associates who make

Art Associate, Agency Services DIANE TABUAS

Accounting AGNES ALVES, ALAN KULA, MAGDALENA SZARGUT

shopping easy and pleasurable. While other companies are cutting costs, we service our customers without any predetermined budget.

Published by w wainscot

Simply put, we will do whatever it takes to maintain our high stan-

Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN

dards. So when someone asks “Why only one Boyds?” the answer is

President MARK DOWDEN

easy: We are interested in perfection, not expansion.

Senior Vice President EDWARD BURNS

Of course, Boyds would not be what it is today without the support of our loyal customers. In this issue we asked a few of them to share their “Boyds Stories”—you can read their experiences beginning

see page 66

Regional Sales Director

on page 73. And we would be remiss to overlook the role Philadelphia

DOUGLAS C. BARKER

has played in our success. Just as Boyds has evolved, so has this city,

Director of Marketing CHRISTOPHER KAEFER

providing us with the best-possible setting for our business. Bonny Armani

Vice Presidents GRACE BEHRENS, AMY A. DOWDEN, NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, SHANNON STEITZ, SUZANNE TRON

Circulation Director LAUREN MENA

Thank you for a great 70 years. We’re looking forward to the next 70. BOYDS Magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Boyds. Copyright © 2008 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

KENT GUSHNER

JEFFREY GLASS

R A L P H YA F F E

Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, BOYDS, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Boyds, 1818 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103; telephone 215.564.9000. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

FALL • WINTER 2008

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{ the

boyds guide } CLASSICS with KICK Quintessentially British with a hint of playful humor—that’s the look of designer Paul Smith. Proving that true elegance is the opposite of stuffy, the designer found success by weaving whimsical accents into otherwise conservative looks. A grey business suit, for example, may reveal glimpses of a wild print lining. Traditional checkered English dress shirts are paired with vibrantly patterned ties. And Smith’s signature multihued stripes embellish everything from sweaters to socks to boxers. Mischief also makes an occasional appearance—a female nude on a pair of cufflinks or a wallet, for instance. Though the Nottingham native stumbled accidentally into fashion (as a child he dreamed of becoming a professional bicycle racer), his quirky style has captivated legions of fans—Smith’s impeccable clothing is now sold in 35 countries—and won him a knighthood. Boyds offers tailored menswear from the Paul Smith London collection.

Frock on! Few garments have inspired the passions of women—or the men who accompany them—quite as ardently as the party dress, be it a confection of frills or a sexy sheath. In The Party Dress ($60 from Rizzoli), Alexandra Black presents a veritable love letter to the form. Part history, part fashion spread, the book features Audrey Hepburn, Mia Farrow, Jacqueline Onassis and other best-dressed women wearing creations from Coco Chanel to

Time tested

Carolina Herrera to Zac Posen.

With some 70 patents in its possession, 170 years of tradition to draw on, and a 1,200step process to construct its precision pieces, renowned Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe is leading the charge into the next generation of luxury wrist wear. Individually assembled, polished and regulated by hand at the company’s Geneva workshops, the watches attract connoisseurs who seek excellence in both the aesthetics and mechanics of their timepieces. And those aesthetics are distinguished indeed. Highlights of the 2008 collection include the World Time Watch, a yellow-gold men’s piece featuring a handmade cloisonné enamel dial that displays all 24 time zones; 4910/52G, a white-gold Art Deco-style ladies timepiece drenched in diamonds from the Twenty-4 Haute Joaillerie Collection; and the 5450 Annual Calendar wristwatch, featuring the company’s trademarked Pulsomax escapement that utilizes lighter, faster mechanics and creates less friction than traditional timepieces. Ensuring exclusivity, a limited number of pieces are created for most models—up to only a few hundred for the brand’s more popular designs. Patek Philippe watches are available at Govberg Jewelers on the first floor of Boyds. FA L L

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•

WINTER 2008

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{ the

LOOKS Everlasting

boyds guide }

Embodying the maxim that true style is ageless and timeless, the sleek offerings of Akris Punto beautify ladies young and old with equal aplomb. Featuring clean shapes and simple lines, this sportswear arm of Swiss design house Akris speaks to self-assured women in search of uncomplicated styles of the highest quality. Pants, often wide-legged, are near-universally ﬂattering. Skirts and dresses are modest yet exuberant thanks to smartly tailored waistlines, geometric cuts and a color palette dominated by rich neutrals (charcoal, navy, ecru) and vibrant jewel tones. Founded by Alice Kriemler-Schoch as an apron manufacturer in the 1920s, Akris today is a style powerhouse operated by her grandsons. Each garment is meticulously produced exclusively in their Swiss workshops. The Akris jacket, for example, takes two days to create due to hand-sewn lapels, buttons, beading and embroidery—a level of craftsmanship all generations can appreciate.

Genes COOL

RAW CAFE@Boyds

Step away from the powder-blue onesies and frilly pink headbands. Hip parents who want

Raw, the hot two-year-old sushi

their tots to reflect their own urban sensibilities

restaurant, is now open at Boyds,

can find refuge in Genes, a Philadelphia one-

enabling you to grab a snack or take

stop tot shop where vintage tees, modern jeans,

a break from shopping and enjoy a

contemporary furnishings, modish décor and

leisurely meal. Co-owner Tony Rim

eco-friendly items galore happily converge.

unpacks the uncooked:

The baby boutique is a labor of love for owners Kristina Ferrari and her husband, soccer

Q: What drew you to the restaurant

pro Peter Pappas, themselves parents of two

industry?

trendy tykes. Designer lines like True Religion,

A: My entrepreneurial nature. I like to

Lucy Sykes, J Brand and Paul Frank are well

build things from scratch. Originally I

Q: How did you end up opening

represented, as are lauded furniture collec-

wanted to open a lounge, but there were

at Boyds?

tions Nurseryworks, Ducduc, Netto Collection

so many in the neighborhood. The city

A: I was a customer for a long time

and more. And there’s a little something for the

convinced me to make Raw a restaurant.

and often referred friends and col-

grown-ups too: StorkSak’s Emily shoulder bag

leagues here. Eventually Kenny Gush-

is hip enough for non-Moms to covet (Ange-

Q: What’s behind your success?

ner came to my restaurant on Samson

lina Jolie totes sister bag Gigi), and

A: I have a great partner, Binh Diep,

Street and talked to me about forming

the streamlined Quinny Buzz

and head chef, Sam Yoon. I was clue-

a partnership.

stroller—available in four

less about food when we started, but I

hot hues—lets you

wanted someone creative in the kitchen,

Q: What’s next for Raw?

saunter in style.

and that’s Sam. Jesse Lee, general

A: I’d like to add more sushi to the

manager, is my right hand—without

menu. Because we’re located in a

her Raw wouldn’t even exist.

clothing store, using tempura fryers is out, due to odor issues.

Q: Who designed the space? A: My friend, architect Tim Shaaban,

Q: Philadelphia magazine awarded you

owner of Urban Space Development.

its “Best of Philly” 2008 prize for sushi.

He knows what I want and how to

Is that the ultimate accolade?

make it happen.

A: Either that or the fact that Jerry Gushner eats here now. Kenny said,

BOYDS.guide.finalREV.indd 30

Q: What’s been your biggest surprise?

“If you can convince my father and

A: Serving celebrities. I never expected

his friends to enjoy sushi, you’ll have

our restaurant to be a star hangout.

accomplished wonders!”

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{ the

boyds guide } Valli Girls

“I WANT SOME OF MY CLOTHES TO be sharp as a knife, others as sweet as a cookie,” Giambattista Valli once asserted—and indeed, this penchant for contrast has marked the Italian-born designer’s brand since its 2005 launch in Paris. Valli’s striking fall lineup is no exception, with a color palette ranging from sweet pink and innocent ivory to pitch black and blood red. Bold tufts of fur adorn otherwise simple dresses, strapless bodices sit atop ballooning skirts, sleek formal wear is embellished with striking layers of lace, rufﬂes and poufs. All add up to a look of drama sure to create buzz for the woman who wears it. Educated at one of Rome’s Vatican schools, Valli honed his design skills with Robert Capucci and Fendi before starting his eponymous line. Today he boasts a clientele that includes such fashion devotees as Victoria Beckham (the inspiration behind his 6inch-tall “Victoria Shoe”), Mischa Barton and Mary-Kate Olsen, who sat in the front row for this season’s Paris Fashion Week show. Discover cocktail dresses and skirt suits from Valli’s fall collection at Boyds.

Treasure in the Trunk

Just what is a trunk show? In the old days of fashion retailing, manufacturers’ representatives would visit stores with

Wow Oui You’ll always have Paris at Parc, the newest notch in restaurateur Stephen Starr’s belt of exceptional eateries (Buddakan, The Continental, Pod). Hand-laid ecru tiles, reclaimed Parisian millwork, red leather banquettes—all set the Seineside milieu for the Rittenhouse Square brasserie, open since Bastille Day. French-born chef Dominique Filoni—among Food & Wine magazine’s best new chefs of 2004—prepares a mélange of traditional bistro fare (beef Bourguignon, duck confit, steak frites, salad Lyonnaise with warm bacon vinaigrette and poached egg). But clearly pretension is not on the menu, as these plates peacefully coexist with cheeseburgers, roasted chicken, mashed potatoes and other comfort favorites. And with nearly 160 bottles of European grape varietals on hand, Parc has ample options for those who wish only to sip at a sidewalk table and watch the world amble past.

SEPTEMBER 19

Hickey Freeman: clothing and accessories

OCTOBER 4 Santoni: shoes Boyds: custom shirts by Individualized Shirts

Burberry

trunks full of their latest creations. Store owners would choose the items customers wanted most. Today, we do most of our selection at designers’ showrooms, but trunk shows live on—giving you a chance to see and purchase items from the entire line. Here are

SEPTEMBER 20 Canali: clothing

OCTOBER 11

Armani Collezioni:

shoes

clothing and custom shirts Hamilton: custom shirts

Boyds: custom shirts

Hobbs and Kent: inlayed stone cufflinks and studs

some of the trunk shows coming up at Boyds.

SEPTEMBER 24 Canali: clothing

Ermenegildo Zegna: SEPTEMBER 17 Brioni: clothing and custom shirts, leather cases and accessories Isaia: clothing and custom shirts SEPTEMBER 18

Burberry: clothing Boyds: custom shirts by Individualized Shirts

clothing, custom shirts, briefcases and leather accessories

Allen-Edmonds: by Individualized Shirts OCTOBER 25 Trafalgar: belts, engravable buckles and briefcases Fabergé: ties, pocket squares and accessories

Eton of Sweden: dress shirts and sport shirts

Psycho Bunny: sportswear

SEPTEMBER 27 Ravazzolo: clothing Dolcepunta: ties Ike Behar: custom shirts

Carrot & Gibbs: custom formal accessories Santoni Isaia

Brioni

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FA L L

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{ the

boyds guide }

Rag TAG Two Englishmen in New York with nothing to wear. Such was the foundation of buzz-worthy label Rag & Bone. Launched in 2002 when British transplants (and school chums) Marcus Wainwright and David Neville could ﬁnd nary a pair of jeans to suit their style, the brand has evolved into a design force to be reckoned with. Its full lines of men’s and women’s pieces regularly garner approving nods from top fashion magazines—see Ben Stiller’s narrow-lapel suit on the August cover of Men’s Vogue. With no formal fashion training, Wainwright and Neville called on skilled craftsmen to deliver their vision, but lay down certain style edicts. For one, use only the bestquality materials and classic construction techniques to produce built-to-last pieces. As such, all items are made stateside so the hands-on owners can oversee all aspects of production. The looks are classics with a modern twist and a bit of grit: a structured shirt pairs with skinny jeans, a knit jacket with cashmere trousers. Limited-edition handmade suits come in three different fabrications. A reinvented denim jacket evokes ’80s-rock style with 21st-century appeal. Jump on the Rag & Bone wagon yourself with a trip to Boyds.

(www.eyesite-phila.com) offers optical performance and the perfect fashion-forward complement to any Boyds wardrobe. Frames are hand-carved from luxurious materials such as teak wood or buffalo horn. Choose vintage styles, futuristic shapes or even diamond-, ruby-, emerald- and sapphire-studded frames.

You know Brioni, you love Canali—

relied on ties alone to add flair to their busi-

now meet Oriali, the Florentine shirt maker for whom the stars have aligned: Soccer stars, movie

ness or formal attire, more and more men of

stars and rock stars alike covet

style are choosing to further amp up an outfit’s

the luxury garments this family-

individuality with cufflinks.

run firm has produced since

Whether you’re a connoisseur of cuff-

1958, when founder Roberto

links or reserve them for special occasions,

Mascolo first opened his small

it’s impossible to deny that these elegant

tailoring shop.

accessories add sophistication and style to

•

closer look. EYEsite Spectacles

While “good enough” dressers have long

Debonair in the details

FA L L

created equal, it’s time to take a

perhaps, an unexpected dash of personality.

buttoned-up ensemble—a flash of color and,

If you thought all eyeglasses were

Rally behind Oriali

They’re spots of whimsy in an otherwise

Spectacular specs

Now led by Robert’s grand-

any man’s wardrobe—and indeed, through-

son and namesake, the company’s

out history they’ve been the mark of a true

tailors pay exquisite attention to

gentleman. Today, French cuffs paired with

the smallest of details. Buttonholes

cufflinks—be they conservative, trendy,

are hand-embroidered to keep each mother-of-pearl button securely in

fashion-forward, even downright flashy—

place. Collars are “soft yet strong,” with delicate stitching that ensures

creates a sartorial look with a personalized

they stand firm against everyday wear. Box pleats are sewn by hand

twist. From sports to hobbies to politics

to achieve the most flattering of fits. These elements, along with a

to animals, from stone to bone to glass to

large selection made with exclusive fabrics, have caught the eyes of

gemstones, the wrist adornments come in

footballers Paolo Maldini, Alessandro Del Piero and Luca Toni; singer

all shapes and makes, to satisfy any whim

Matthew Bellamy of British supergroup Muse; Italian director Gabriele

of personality.

Muccino—and other men of style on both sides of the Pond.

WINTER 2008

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{ the

boyds guide }

CASHMERE in the house

Sweet SALUTE Every year MR magazine, the fashion industry’s most-trusted publication for menswear and retail professionals, chooses one store as “Retailer of the Year.” Among other demanding qualifications, the winning company must display superior staff service, an extraordinary range of quality merchandise, attractive facilities and a demonstrated impact on the men’s fashion business. In 2008, Boyds took this honor—just the fourth independent menswear store and the only single-unit retailer to receive the prize in the last 15 years. Details can be found in MR’s November issue, which reveals why—in the publication’s expert opinion—the retail experience at Boyds is unsurpassed in the nation. “We have one store that’s been owned and operated by our family for 70 years, so we know our customers well,” says co-owner Jeff Glass. “Also, we offer a level of service that would put most other stores out of business. We are honored that MR magazine has recognized our commitment to our customers and our individual approach to men’s retailing.”

Feeling pale? Stop by the Raffi Cashmere Shop at Boyds. There you’ll find a veritable color wheel of clothes to choose from. Bold patterns and bright hues distinguish this 15-year-old label. And although it started by designing swimwear, Raffi is now known as “the house of cashmere.” This season, two-thirds of Raffi’s sweaters, coats and pants are woven from the fine goat fiber. Choose 35 different cashmere colors, such as apricot, banana, cinnamon, cranberry, espresso, iron, lake, mandarin, mint, merlot, oyster, pink, rust, sapphire, sky, slate, steel and more. Some classic Raffi pieces, like the 12gauge cashmere sweatshirt-style sweater, may be familiar. Other items, such as baby blankets, pillows, throws and travel packs, are new to Boyds. Raffi evolves year after year, experimenting with fresh styles and innovative stitching and ribbing methods. Yet one thing remains the same: Nowhere else will you find a more diverse painterly palette than at Raffi.

Obsession Perfection All the king’s horses and all the king’s men have nothing on the pros at Boyds’ tailor shop. These maestros of needle and thread regularly put items together again—after taking them apart—to create garments so perfectly fitted they seem something from a fairy tale. But this is certainly no Humpty Dumpty operation. No other store in the country offers the same level of custom alterations: Fifty full-time craftspeople provide customers with the best-possible fit, regardless of budget. They disassemble, reassemble, nip, tuck and baste under the guidance of shop manager Armando Silva (below left). Born in Portugal, he has studied his craft since he was an apprentice at age 12. And just as Boyds is a family-run operation, so is the tailor shop: Silva’s brother and sister-in-law measure, snip and sew by his side. The cost for calling on such expertise? It’s free for Boyds customers—and if you require a re-alteration, this complimentary service can be provided for up to one year after purchase. But the shop’s eye for excellence doesn’t stop at the fit: Boyds also employs six full-time pressers who use 10 different machines (most stores only use two) to shape the collar, armholes, sleeves, body, waist, seam, bottom and legs of any garment. A meticulous attention to detail is required, since these experts press items that have already been altered. And should the power ever fail, they’ll keep going, thaks to a second-floor generator. Want more details? Talk to head presser Bobby Jackson, who’s been with Boyds for more than 25 years. Combined, these pressers and tailors have 600 years of experience at Boyds. Given this superior quality and service, it’s little wonder people travel hundreds of miles to take full advantage of all that Boyds’ tailor shop has to offer.

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Dressing Philadelphia for 70 years

1938 Brothers Alexander, Albert and Ben Gushner co-found a men’s

clothing store at 1217 Market Street. Alex names it “Boyds” after The Boyd Theater, an art deco movie palace at 19th and Chestnut.

1944 Boyds advertisement from July 1944

1952

1950

Jerry Gushner joins the

Boyds, now the country’s largest men’s

business at age 22.

Big & Tall store, expands its line to carry regular sizes as well.

1956 Mark and Harvey Gushner

1953 Basketball phenom Wilt Chamberlain gets fitted at Boyds.

Boyds_Timeline_v5.lc.indd 1

join Boyds.

1960 Market Street location triples in size.

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1965 Big & Tall department opens in “Chock Full O’ Nuts” building next to the Market

1964

Street location.

Editorial in March 6, 1964, Menswear

1967 Boyds sponsors National League Club.

1968 Three founding Gushners retire and leave the

Mark Gushner

1969

business to Gerald, Mark and Harvey.

Boyds in the Daily News Record

1972

1972 Holiday catalog

In response to residents of Philadelphia moving to the suburbs, Boyds develops the “Come back to Philadelphia; come to Boyds” advertising campaign, one of the most successful ad campaigns of its kind.

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WINTER 2008

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Dressing Philadelphia for 70 years

1980 Boyds introduces free valet parking at its Market Street location

1978

as it focuses

Jeff Glass, the first of

on the luxury

Boyds’ third generation,

clothing market.

joins the business after working in real estate for several years

following college. Today Jeff is one of three family owners.

1976 Boyds is voted “best single-

1982

unit men’s store in the U.S.”

Philadelphia

by Menswear magazine.

magazine ad, October 1982

1982 Kent’s father, Gerald Gushner

1983 KENT GUSHNER,

Boyds expands its Market Street location by adding the Penthouse, a 10,000-square-foot store dedicated to the finest men’s clothing, sportswear and accessories.

grandson of original owner Alexander Gushner and son of previous owner Gerald Gushner, joins Boyds full time. RALPH YAFFE, Kent’s brother-in-law, joins Boyds.

1984

1988

NBA advertising: 76ers vs. Chicago

Boyds Men’s Store

Bulls, 1983–84 playoffs

announces its relocation to the former Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts (Peale House), an elegant and historic commercial property located at 1818 Chestnut Street.

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1998 Boyds partners with Trussini, an Italian manufacturing company, to design and produce the Trussini men’s clothing line. Trussini is now sold in more than 70 stores across the country.

1993 After 55 years of providing men’s clothing only, Boyds introduces a women’s department.

2002 Boyds receives MR magazine’s “Store of the Year” award

1990 On May 3, Boyds officially opens its 45,000-squarefoot store at the former Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts building.

2005 Boyds is voted one of Esquire magazine’s top 100 retail stores in America.

2005

2004

Boyds is given a prestigious

Third-generation owners

achievement award of the Men’s

Kent Gushner, Ralph Yaffe

Dress Furnishings Association,

and Jeff Glass purchase

along with Donald Trump and Jane

the business.

Elfers, president of Lord & Taylor.

2005 Boyds unveils its newly expanded women’s store, the largest designer men’s shoe store in Philadelphia, and Govberg Jewelers at its Chestnut Street location.

2008

BOYDS magazine is launched in spring.

Boyds receives MR magazine’s “Store of the Year” award and is celebrated

B OY D S SPRING 2008

in a multi-page special section.

WHAT ’S N EW FOR SPR ING

2006 Boyds undergoes an expansion to include the Women’s Shoe Salon on the mezzanine level and B3, a concept store on the third floor featuring men’s and women’s contemporary fashions, including shoes and accessories.

2008 Raw Café opens at Boyds.

PREFERRED CUSTOMER

GIFT CARDS

BOLDER CO SAFARI ST LORS SOFT HUESYLINGS &

NAUTICAL

ENCLOSED See page 32

CHIC

Zero 100 IN A to

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boyds phila guide to st delphia yle SINGLE -MALT SENSA T THE GLENROION THES GUCCI, CA NALI, BRIO MANOLO BLAHNIK, NI, CATHERINE MAL AKRIS PUN AN TO, ZAC PO DRINO, LANVIN, SEN & man ym

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{ essentials }

Lucky 7 Top looks every man should have in his wardrobe

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

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A classic navy sportcoat by TRUSSINI A printed sportshirt by ETRO A statement watch by BELL & ROSS at Govberg Jewelers A vivid cashmere sweater by RAFFI The perfect pair of jeans by REPLAY Brown shoes (the color for footwear this season) by SANTONI A charcoal grey slimmer-silhouetted suit (accessorized with a paisley tie and French cuffs!) by ISAIA

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{ essentials }

6 picks for fall A haute handful of selections to guide you through the season 1. 2. 3. 4.

Fabulous flat leather boots by GUCCI The perfect coat by CINZIA ROCCA A printed dress by JEAN PAUL GAULTIER An oversized tote (in an eye-catching color!) By KOOBA 5. Ballet flats by LANVIN 6. Glamorous gold bangles by GOVBERG JEWELERS

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WINTER 2008

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{ essentials } 2. 1.

3. 5.

perfectly plum

Sweet fall fashions that are ripe for the picking 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

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MANOLO BLAHNIK snakeskin d’Orsay pump JUST CAVALLI jersey dress ZAC POSEN leather tote with bow detail ETRO cashmere-blend paisley scarf GOVBERG JEWELERS amethyst and diamond ring BOTTEGA VENETA woven leather handbag DAVID DONAHUE enamel cufflinks ISAIA silk tie

WINTER 2008

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{ essentials }

2. 3.

8. 7.

going green Inspire envy with these verdant options

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â&#x20AC;˘

1. MANOLO BLAHNIK patent-leather mary janes 2. RAFFI cashmere sweater 3. LANVIN patent-leather handbag with chain strap 4. BARBARA BLANK silk pocket squares 5. HAGGAI 18-karat yellow gold cushion-cut peridot ring at Govberg Jewelers 6. BAADE II enamel cufflinks 7. BOTTEGA VENETA woven leather handbag 8. ETRO cashmere-blend paisley scarf

WINTER 2008

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{ men’s shoes }

Walk this way From sneakers to wingtips, this season’s footwear gives you style and sole

Suede penny slip-on with rubber sole by Santoni, Trussini pinwale corduroys

Magnanni patent leather lace-up with grosgrain piping, Canali tuxedo pant

Gucci contemporary horsebit slip-on, Alberto jeans

Gucci classic horsebit loafer, Incotex wool pant

Two-tone wingtip by J Shoes, Rag & Bone stretch denim pant

Gucci “GG” sneaker, Trussini cotton pant

Crepe-sole laceup boot from J Shoes, Alberto jeans

Paul Smith sneakers, 7 jeans

Calfskin medallion-toe oxford by Santoni, Ravazzolo pinstripe suit pant

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Crested driver by Gucci, Rock & Republic jeans

Paul Smith zipper boot, AG jeans

Gucci signature sneaker, Hugo Boss cotton pant

Split-toe oxford by Allen-Edmonds, MacHay windowpane plaid pant

Suede and calfskin wingtip by Gucci, Trussini pinstripe suit pant

Santoni hand-antiqued boot with shearling fur, Trussini pinwale corduroys

J Shoes perforated casual with crepe sole, John Varvatos black denim pant

Rubber-sole Gucci moccasin, Loro Piana cotton pant

Santoni wingtip boot, Ermenegildo Zegna pinstripe suit pant FA L L

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{ meet the designer } took all the insides out of a tailored jacket to make something that was entirely new. In women’s fashion, you did more than perhaps any other designer to make trousers chic. What are your rules on designing for women?

One is that it should be the woman who is noticed first, rather than what she is wearing. In other words, the clothes shouldn’t wear her. Two, she should feel confident in her clothing. Something that is overly elaborate or ornamented will not allow her to tap into her innate sense of security. Finish this sentence: Giorgio Armani is all about ...

Understated elegance.

GIORGIO

ARMANI SOME DESIGNERS MAY claim their garments

dabbled in photography in his youth—Armani

are works of art, but Giorgio Armani can

revolutionized popular style in the 1970s with

prove it: As the only fashion designer to have

his focus on casual elegance, and has influ-

his own exhibit at the Guggenheim Museum,

enced how we dress ever since. At age 74,

he is literally in a class by himself. Combin-

he is still a vital force in fashion—but refuses

ing the precision of a surgeon and the eye

to rest on his accolades, as he recently told

of an artist—he both studied medicine and

BOYDS magazine.

Why was your first personal collection designed for men?

I felt strongly that I could offer men an alternative to what was then available. The following year I embraced the challenge of designing for women. I still enjoy working on collections for both women and men equally. If an Armani suit could talk, what would it say?

It would not speak. It would just resonate quietly to bring out the wearer’s innate confidence.

Forbes magazine has called you the most

about how clothing should suit the wearer and

You were among the first designers

successful Italian designer of all time. Did

that a relaxed elegance was needed in fashion. I

to ban the use of super-thin models.

success come easily?

could never have imagined that I would one day

Do you think you’re helping to change

At the beginning, I worked very hard to suc-

have stores around the world with my name on

the ideal of feminine beauty?

ceed. Even today, after more than 30 years

them or that I’d design such a range of products

I don’t know that one person could change

in business, I feel I must always work hard to

every day. It is truly amazing.

the ideal of feminine beauty. If I had that

ensure success.

power, I would be tremendously flattered! Your first famous innovation in tailored

When you and Sergio Galleotti founded

menswear was a less-structured jacket.

You’ve designed clothes for many stars.

your company in the 1970s, did you have

What led you to pioneer this look?

Who was most satisfying to dress?

a clear vision for where it would take you?

I felt, at the time, that clothing was very stiff

I have been really fortunate to work with so

At the time, I knew only that I had definite ideas

and gave no sense of the individual. I literally

many talented people in the worlds of film,

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{ meet the designer }

TIMELESS ELEGANCE, MODERN APPEAL: HIGHLIGHTS FROM ARMANI COLLEZIONI’S FALL/ WINTER COLLECTION.

sports and music that it is hard to single out any one

one who spends his life

example, Bruce Weber,

etarian, although I enjoy

designing clothes, I dress

Herb Ritts and Sugimoto.

simple and healthy foods.

very simply in my own

My favorite meal is pasta,

“uniform” of a navy cash-

You have a notable

grilled fish and simply

mere T-shirt and pants.

home in Antigua. How

prepared vegetables.

much time do you spend

person. Name three things you

there, and where else

What is your favorite

can’t live without.

do you live?

thing to shop for?

great pleasure to

My work, my family and

I spend considerable time

I have just acquired my

dress someone

my closest friends.

in Milan because of work,

second yacht, and the

but I am fortunate to have

process of outfitting the boat is very absorbing.

That said, it always gives me

for a wedding. Most recently,

You’ve helped design a

vacation homes in Antigua,

the wedding of

cell phone. What tune

Pantelleria, St. Tropez,

does your own cell

Broni, Portofino and Forte

At age 74, what role do

phone play?

dei Marmi. I wish I could

you play in the business

While the craze for ring

have more days in a year

that bears your name?

tones is amusing, I pre-

to spend at each home, of

Since the day I started the

What’s one trend

fer a classic ring for my

course, since they are all

company I have played

you’ll be happy to see

own phone.

in beautiful settings.

every role. Even today, I

An early passion of

What is your

of the company—much to

I would be happy

yours was photography.

morning routine?

the chagrin of those close

to see the notion of

What photographer’s

I work out for 90 minutes

to me, no doubt!

arriving fashionably

work do you most

with a personal trainer—

late disappear. And I

admire, and why?

45 minutes of aerobic

Do you have a dream

Katie Holmes to Tom Cruise was a spectacular event.

depart? And one you hope lingers?

am involved in all aspects

hope that treating other

I have collaborated with

exercise, then 45 minutes

that is still unfulfilled?

people with courtesy

several of the great

of weight training. This

I am very lucky that I

and respect never goes

fashion photographers,

ritual gives me the right

have achieved so much,

out of style.

such as Peter Lindbergh

energy to face my day!

so I have very little in the

and the team of Mert

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way of dreams of mate-

What was your

Alas and Marcus Piggott,

You’re said to be a

rial things. The one thing

latest purchase for

and there are many other

vegetarian. What’s your

I always desire is to have

your own closet?

photographers whose

favorite meal?

more time to spend with

Ironically, for some-

work I admire—for

Actually, I am not a veg-

friends and family.

WINTER 2008

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boyds stories

8 loyal customers tell what brings them back to Boyds

W E ’ V E B E E N A R O U N D F O R A W H I L E — 70 years, in fact. And in that time, we’ve learned a thing or two. Like how to develop relationships with our customers—many of which span decades. And how to make shopping pleasurable and easy, so you’ll look your best. Because what’s the point of investing in clothing that doesn’t make you feel good? But hey, don’t take our word for it. Listen to what eight loyal Boyds customers have to say. We asked them to give us the truth about how they became regular customers and what they find here that keeps them coming back. And they delivered. Of course, these are just a smattering of the devoted shoppers who proudly credit Boyds with their distinguished styles. Look for more stories—perhaps even your own!—in upcoming issues.

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{ boyds stories }

bishop curley guidry Church of God in Christ I ’ L L B E 9 7 I N J A N U A R Y. I was 91 when they put me in charge of 40 churches in south Jersey—the oldest man ever made a bishop in the Church of God in Christ. I have to look the part. I discovered Boyds over 20 years ago, when I was passing by and saw the beautiful suits in the window. I walked in, bought two suits and have shopped there ever since. The people are kind and hospitable. Everybody’s always smiling, and they know just what I want and what is right for me. Even the guys in the parking lot greet me when I arrive—they say, “Hello, Rev!” I don’t dress fancy; I just like nice things—clothing made well with fine fabrics. You know how you sit down and when you get up you’re all wrinkled? It’s not that way with a Canali or Trussini suit from Boyds. Everybody tells me, “You look so well—where do you get your suits?” And I tell them, “Boyds.” I even give them the address—“1818 Chestnut!”

Heaven sent: The Bishop wears a Trussini three-button side-vented pinstripe suit, Boyds custom shirt, and a Trussini silk tie and pocket square.

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gene feiner former owner of Acme Manufacturing Company (manufacturers of sheet metal products), philanthropist

I T WA S T H E C O N V E N I E N C E O F VA L E T PA R K I N G that first drew me to Boyds some 25 years ago, when the store was on Market Street. I walked in looking for some haberdashery, and a young fellow took me around. It was Kenny, the owner’s son, who’s now in charge. I think I bought a tie. Then he asked if he could show me some suits, and I said sure. I was very impressed—with the clothing and with Kenny. The store got bigger when they moved to Chestnut Street, but it kept the same intimate atmosphere. The employees understand the merchandise and know how to make customers happy. And everyone always has a nice hello. Each season I replenish my wardrobe of suits and sportcoats. I like Brioni and Ermenegildo Zegna. Occasionally I’ll have something like a tuxedo custom made, but typically I buy off the rack. Boyds also has a great shoe department where I get all my footwear. A lovely young lady named Anne Elkins coordinates all of my suits and sportcoats with a selection of shirts, ties and, of course, handkerchiefs.

Gene wears a jovial smile along with his Brioni two-buttton side-vented pinstripe suit, barrel-cuff dress shirt, silk tie and pocket square.

F A LFLA L 2L 0 0• 8W I N / TER 2008

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{ boyds stories }

ryan and kerri farragut United States Roofing Corporation (WITH DAUGHTER ALEX, 6) I T WA S A F A M I LY S H O P P I N G EXCURSION WHEN I BOUGHT M Y W E D D I N G S U I T AT B O Y D S E I G H T Y E A R S A G O . Even Kerri, my fiancée, was there. I had never shopped there for a suit before, which basically means I’d never been catered to so carefully. The attention and expertise completely alleviated my stress. I remember thinking, “This is such a cool experience!” The suit was classic Armani: black, sleek, beautiful. I also bought a pair of Santoni shoes. They were expensive—handmade brown wingtips with a square front—but I splurged. Man, I love those shoes. The quality is amazing. Today they’re still in style, fit perfectly, look great. These days I typically shop for casual garments— Etro pants, Paul Smith shirts. Boyds now has Govberg jewelry on the first floor, so I just got a few watches. More often than not, Kerri is with me. We start by browsing together in the men’s department. Then someone will take her to women’s and show her all the new stuff. Wednesdays they’re open late, so A well-clad clan: Ryan wears a Paul Smith two-button peak-lapel sportcoat, satin sportshirt, black Hugo Boss wool zip cardigan, Replay jeans and Paul Smith sneakers. Kerri sports a Jean Paul Gaultier dress and Guisseppe Zanotti shoes.

we’ll make a night of it—do a little shopping, grab a bite to eat. It’s like a date.

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peter madden founder and president of AgileCat, a branding and marketing agency IF YOU SEE SOMEONE ON THE STREET IN PHILADELPHIA W H O L O O K S R E A L LY G O O D , nine times out of 10 you can be sure that person shops at Boyds. That stellar reputation is what brought me here four years ago. Ninety percent of my suits are Trussini. Ties come from Hugo Boss, and I love Robert Graham sportshirts. I only work with one salesperson: Colin Eisenberg. You can get a good suit in many places, but few people can make shopping fun the way Colin does. I’m amazed at the details he remembers. My company’s name is AgileCat, so he found a unique pair of lion’s head cufflinks and set them aside for me. They were expensive, but I couldn’t resist. Now I wear them all the time—even for this shoot! Boyds is always reinvesting in its own brand. They could have kept things status quo and still succeeded, but instead they constantly upgrade their space. Raw, the new sushi restaurant, is a perfect example. I took colleagues there for lunch the other day. We had the bento boxes and left completely stuffed.

Agile style: Peter sports a Canali single-brested side-vented suit, French cuff dress shirt, silk tie and Santoni double monk strap loafer. FA L L 2 0 0 8

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{ boyds stories }

nicole cashman president and CEO of Cashman & Associates Public Relations & Special Events I’M A CROSS-DESIGNER SHOPPER. The more brands I can mix, the better. I love Manolo Blahnik heels, Tory Burch flats, Etro handbags, Diane von Furstenberg wrap dresses and the Milly items on B3 (the third floor). Last year I bought an amazing Oscar de la Renta black-tie gown, which is probably my favorite article of clothing. My job requires me to attend countless functions. I often walk in needing an item for a special event and Jen Doss, my saleswoman, always knows what to pull. When Boyds expanded its women’s department several years ago, they asked me to handle their PR and marketing. We threw big parties and spread the word. It was easy because there’s so much to say. As an independent business owner, I appreciate the fact that Boyds hasn’t turned into a national chain. After all these years, it is still family-run. And as an entrepreneur, I’m really proud of what Boyds has done in Philadelphia. We’re not known as a fashion city, but Boyds is changing that perception with a higher level of taste, style and sophistication.

Nicole looks elegant in a flirty Doo.Ri tiered silk organza cocktail dress.

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I WA S B O R N A N D R A I S E D I N SOUTHWEST PHILADELPHIA. As a kid I used to walk by Boyds, look in the windows and dream that someday I’d be able to shop there. I’ve always loved clothes. I made my first Boyds purchase 15 years ago. I was working as an assistant basketball coach in Massachusetts and needed something nice to wear to the games. I walked inside and purchased a sportcoat. I can’t remember the brand, but I do remember the fine feeling I got when I put it on.

james “bruiser” flint men’s basketball coach at Drexel University Now I own about 30 suits, most by Ermenegildo Zegna and Armani. My wife, Rene, would tell you I shop here much too often, and she’s probably right! I stop by at least once a month and always stay a while. Joe Crimaldi and the other sales guys are into sports, like me, and sometimes we just sit around and talk basketball. Even the people at the cash register make me feel like family. They follow the Drexel team and ask how things are going. I travel everywhere for my job. Whenever I say I’m from Philadelphia and like clothes, this is the first store people talk about. “Do you shop there?” they ask. And I answer, “Yeah, I shop at Boyds.”

It’s a slam-dunk: Bruiser looks sharp in a Basile three-button plaid wool sportcoat and Ermenegildo Zegna sportshirt. FA L L 2 0 0 8

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{ boyds stories }

michael salove

president and CEO of Michael Salove Company, a real estate brokerage firm I H A P P E N T O B E B U I LT A L I T T L E W E I R D . I’m very athletic, with a fairly large upper body. I wear a size 40 jacket. Typically that comes with a 34-inch trouser, but I have a 29-inch waist. Which means I can’t just walk into a department store and buy a suit; it doesn’t work. And I don’t trust the tailors at other shops, because they butcher my clothes. So I either have to get my suits custom-made, which Boyds does, or work with one of their incredible tailors. They basically custom make all my pants. I’ve been coming here for 22 years. Bill Bolling has been my sales guy since day one, and Janet Woolman does my accessories. I’ve known her since high school. She takes the guesswork out of shopping. My style is classic with a modern twist. Most of my clients are restaurateurs and fashion chains, so it’s important to look current. Ermenegildo Zegna and Canali are business-appropriate, yet make me feel like I’ve got style and I’m dressing well. Every few years I purge my closet and start again. It has nothing to do with the quality of the clothes; I just like to keep things very fresh. Right now I have about 10 suits for each season—winter and summer—plus another 12 or so sportcoats. I like to wear flannels and textured material when it gets cold. And in the fall Bill pulls the fabric books and we look at Zegna’s line and do the custom-ordering.

Michael’s dialed in with an Etro plaid wool sportcoat, Theory sportshirt and Trussini wool pants.

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I’M UNUSUAL FOR A WOMAN— I D O N ’ T L I K E T O S H O P. Still, I spoil myself badly most of the time. I figure if you’re a professional, your clothes are your uniform. So I’m vigilant about presenting myself in the best possible light. That’s where Romanita comes in. She knows all my idiosyncrasies, what I think looks good on me, what’s appropriate for my life. I have an annoying habit of blowing in unannounced. But Romanita always has time to help. I usually buy my entire spring or winter wardrobe in one fell swoop. After the clothes are tailored, someone drops them at my office. What could be easier? When Boyds was a men’s store my partners always shopped there, and sometimes I’d go in to purchase gifts. When they finally opened the women’s department in 1993 I started buying skirtsuits, mainly Armani. That’s all I wear to court. But on days in the office, I dress a bit more casually, in slacks and blouses. I used to travel to New York for fashionable garments. But why bother? Those chic pieces are now available in my own backyard—at Boyds.

carol nelson shepherd partner at the law firm of Feldman, Shepherd, Wohlgelernter, Tanner, Weinstock & Dodig Carol is court-ready in a sleek and sweet Armani Collezioni wool jersey skirtsuit.

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FAL L F L O R A L Nature’s palette COLORS THIS SEASON’S bountiful selection. Enrich your look with rich shades of ROSE, PURPLE, MOSS AND BROWN

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ETRO

JACQUARD JACKET,

COTTON SHIRT, WOOL PANT

CHRISTINE A. MOORE HAT, COURTESY OF HATS IN THE BELFRY

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BEHNAZ SARAFPOUR OPTIC PORTOLANO LEATHER GLOVES

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FLORAL DRESS

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JEAN PAUL GAULTIER FUZZI BUTTERFLY WING DRESS

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NANCY GONZALEZ MOSAIC CROCODILE TOTE IN BERRY

FAUX BOIS TABLE COURTESY OF LUXE HOME

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HERVÉ LEGÉR OMBRE NEOPRENE DRESS PORTOLANO SUEDE GLOVES

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CATHERINE MALANDRINO TIERED SILK CHARMEUSE WITH EMBROIDERY DETAIL IN ALPINE

ZAC POSEN LEATHER HANDBAG

MANOLO BLAHNIK PATENT-LEATHER MARY JANES

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CINZIA ROCCA FUNNEL-NECK COAT GUCCI HIGH-HEEL LEATHER BOOTS

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MIRROR, MIRROR ... A looking glass WITH PANACHE reflects both your home’s STYLE and SUBSTANCE “IF YOU HAVE A GOOD FRIEND, you don’t need a mirror,” says an old German proverb.

Hogwash! Besides occasionally whispering truths no real friend would utter, mirrors can fib P H O T O G R A P H Y BY T I M S T R E E T- P O R T E R

in delightful ways—they’re your home’s elegant illusionists, slyly suggesting there’s more to behold than your architect provided. They shed light on a dark space, add depth to a small nook—not to mention help you keep up your own stylish appearances. And when done with bold élan, as in the rooms presented here, mirrors add an arresting dash of drama.

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This page, bold in gold, a 19th-century Louis Philippe gilded mirror is a shining focal point in the periodstyled sitting room of this West Hollywood villa. The frame repeats the motif of the fireplace faĂ§ade, as detailed sconces and richly upholstered furniture in a pale palette complete the look of vintage Hollywood glamour.

Opposite, the viewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s askew from this 19th-century convex mirror, but the quirky style it imbues in this living room, designed by Martyn LawrenceBullard, is plain to see. A 17th-century Flemish tapestry provides a vivid backdrop.

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This page, reflecting cultures far and near is this German rococo mirror, which hangs above a 19th-century Indian settee and captures the opposite wallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spanish painting of the Madonna, paying homage to the homeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Continental heritage.

Opposite, set atop a panel of sunny yellow, this commanding shell mirror creates an intricate visual diversion in a clean-lined black-andwhite master bedroom in upstate New York. A pair of lamps echoes the pieceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s detailed curves.

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A bright spot of relief among the dark-hued walls and furniture, this mirrorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crisp geometric lines contrast with the swirls of color in the surrounding collection of Japanese ceramics.

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A relaxing bath is a time to reflect. In this retreat, a pair of striking goldtrimmed mirrors helps the cause, returning the spaceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s peaceful awashin-white interior, designed by Kerry Joyce, as well as sunshine and garden views seen from the large windows.

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Elizabeth L. Rothwell | The White Screen, circa 1918 | Oil on canvas | 31” x 24”

CLASSIC STYLE…

Pennsylvania Art Conservatory 636 Lancaster Avenue, Berwyn, PA 19312 610.644.4300 1824 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103 215.564.2100 www.paconservatory.com VISIT US NEXT DOOR TO BOYDS

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8/20/08 12:25:12 PM 8/20/08 9:26:50 AM

877 - 672 - 4634 www.schneidersusa.com

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From the corner office to an intimate corner table, smart sartorial choices will make your personal stock rise

COMPANY BRIONI TWO-BUTTON SIDE-VENTED SUIT, COTTON SHIRT, PRINT TIE ETRO FLORAL JERSEY DRESS, CHIMENTO DROP EARRINGS AT GOVBERG JEWELERS

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MICROCHECK SUIT AND SHIRT DOLCEPUNTA SEVENFOLD TIE

LIEGE DESK COURTESY OF DESIGN WITHIN REACH

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above left SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SILK TIES above right TRUSSINI THREE-BUTTON SIDE-VENTED PINSTRIPE SUIT, IKE BEHAR COTTON SHIRT, TRUSSINI WOVEN TIE, SANYO RAIN COAT EAMES SOFT PAD MANAGEMENT CHAIR COURTESY OF DESIGN WITHIN REACH left BASILE GREEN AND BLUE PLAID SIDE-VENTED SPORTCOAT IKE BEHAR SHIRT AND TIE TRUSSINI WOOL AND CASHMERE OVERCOAT

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BRIONI TWO-BUTTON SIDE-VENTED CASHMERE SPORTCOAT AKRIS PUNTO MANDARIN-COLLAR PANTSUIT, ETRO SCARF GIRARD PERREGAUX GENTLEMAN’S 18-KARAT ROSE

LINEN WINGBACK CHAIR COURTESY OF LUXE HOME FA L L

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GUCCI BROWN “GG” WASHED-COTTON HANDBAG WITH BROWN LEATHER TRIM AND EMBROIDERED G SCRIPT CREST BADGE

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NAVY BLUE COTTON FINE-PINSTRIPE DRESS SHIRT WITH BARREL CUFF, BLACK/SKY-BLUE INTERLOCKING G SILK TIE

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above left ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA PRINCE OF WALES PLAID SIDE-VENTED SPORTCOAT, CASHMERE AND WOOL V-NECK SWEATER, COTTON SHIRT, PAISLEY TIE above right ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TWO-BUTTON SIDE-VENTED SUIT, COTTON SHIRT, SATIN STRIPE TIE BEHNAZ SARAFPOUR PINWHEEL JAQUARD DRESS left MAGNANNI HAND-DETAILED WINGTIP

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TWO-BUTTON SUIT, SHIRT AND TIE, BIRDSEYE WOOL SUIT WITH FLOWER DETAIL

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Match Italian Pewter and berti knives buccellati silver Hermès Saint-Louis Crystal William Yeoward Juliska Bernardaud l’Object Gien Faberge David Redman Raynaud Carrol Boyes Functional Art Mary Jurek Vietri Mariposa Simon Pearce Italian Pottery Versace Puiforcat Ercuis jl coquet jaune de chrome Ricci Argentieri Richard Ginori Wide Rimmed Bowl and Luciano Pitcher by Match. Pontormo Ox Horn Knife by Coltellerie Berti.

Manor Home & Gifts 210 S. 17th Street

Philadelphia, PA 19103

215.732.1030

Wedding Registry

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MODERN EDGE Crisp lines and minimalist details set the scene

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E T RO W O O L A N D V E LV E T C O AT PORTOLANO L E AT H E R G L O V E S C H RI ST I N E A . M O O RE H AT, COURTESY OF HATS IN THE BELFRY

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J E A N PA UL G A ULTIE R N E CKLA CE PA N TS U IT DAVI D ST E E LE HAT, COURTESY OF HATS IN THE BELFRY VE R N E R PA N T O N CHA IR, COURTESY OF MINIMA

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GIAMBATTISTA VALLI WOOL/SILK RAZMIR AND WOOL TWEED SKIRTSUIT PORTOLANO L E AT H E R G L O V E S JASPER M O RRI SO N C H A I R, COURTESY OF MINIMA

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N A R C I SO R O DR I GU E Z WOOL CONVERTIBLE DRESS G UC C I H I G H - H E E L LE ATHE R BOOTS VE R N E R PA N T O N CHA IR, COURTESY OF MINIMA G I USE P P E Z A N OTTI S TU DDE D CA P-TOE PLA F ORM PUMP/ PAT E N T FA UX - E E L COVE RE D PLATF ORM PE E P-TO E PUMP/ R E D SN A K E SK I N S LIN GBA CK G I USE P P E Z A N OTTI S U E DE PE E P-TOE PLATF ORM PUMP W I T H DE TA I LE D HE E L G I USE P P E Z A N OTTI BLA CK S U E DE PLATF ORM BO OTIE W I T H BR O WN LE ATHE R CA P-TOE 112

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D OO.R I TIER E D SI L K O RG A N Z A C O C K TA I L DRE SS PORTOLAN O G L O V E S GOV BER G JE W E L E RS TA H I T I A N P E A RL A N D D IAMOND EA RRI N G S/M U LT I ST RA N D B RA C L E T PATR IC K NO RG U E T C H A I R, COURTESY OF MINIMA

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Premier Lady ChronographTM ÂŠ2008 Harry Winston 1 800 848 3948 www.harrywinston.com

8/29/08 9:56:49 AM

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CASUALLY R E F I N E D Ward off the season’s first c h i l l wi t h d i s t i n ct i o n i n ca s h me r e , cotton, leather a n d wo o l

PAUL & SHARK | COTTON SPORTSHIRT, HALF-ZIP WOOL SWEATER WITH SUEDE TRIM IWC | GENTLEMAN’S STAINLESS-STEEL PORTUGUESE CHRONOGRAPH AT GOVBERG JEWELERS

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(him)

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA | CASHMERE JACKET TRUSSINI | WOOL PANTS

(her)

PESERICO | REVERSIBLE WOOL FLEECE CAPE, STRETCH WOOL PANT, GUCCI | LEATHER BOOTS FA L L

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(top left)

ETRO | GREEN AND PURPLE PLAID SPORTCOAT, SPORTSHIRT AND SCARF (bottom left)

BELSTAFF | LEATHER JACKET (above)

FERRAGAMO | JACKET

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RAFFI | CASHMERE SWEATER, PILLOW, THROW NAVY LEATHER CHAIR COURTESY OF LUXE HOME

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(above)

MORIANO | SHEARLING (top right)

ANNE CLAIRE | ABSTRACT FELT CARDIGAN J BRAND | JEANS GUCCI | LEATHER BOOTS (bottom right)

PETER MILAR | CASHMERE WINDOWPANE V-NECK SWEATER, COTTON SHIRT TRUSSINI | DOUBLE-BREASTED WOOL AND CASHMERE COAT

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LORO PIANA | CASHMERE STORM SYSTEM JACKET, CASHMERE ZIP CARDIGAN, CASHMERE SCARF, COTTON SHIRT, COTTON FLAT-FRONT PANT

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license to

THRILL

Sleek, SEDUCTIVE AND ULTRA-MUSCULAR, the Aston Martin DBS is THE FASTEST PRODUCTION model to date from this CLASSIC marque |

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CURVACEOUS LINES AND A SINEWY SILHOUETTE MASK THE ASTON MARTIN DBS’S TRUE MUSCLE: A HAND-BUILT V-12, 5.9-LITER ENGINE THAT MAXES OUT AT 191 MPH.

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GAIT VOLOBOR INCING ET ACCUMSANDIO DOLORE MINIAT. MOD MAGNISSIT, CORERO ESSI EX EXERIT NIT LA FACIL ULLAM INIM VELENIM NIT, SUMMODO LENDIGNA FACINIM VERAT, COMMY NIM NONULLUT AUT VELIT, CONSENT ADIT IRIT DO DEL EA CORE ET LUT LORE FACCUMSANDRE TATEM DEL ILISIM DUNT LA CONSENISL DOLORE TATIE FEU FACCUMMY NOSTIE FEUGIATIE TATEM ZZRILLU PTATUM DOLORTI SMOLESSI.

“EXPLOSIVE POWER IN A BLACK TIE.” That’s how Ulrich Bez, CEO of

the road—and there’s no question he succeeded.

Aston Martin, describes the DBS, the 94-year-old marque’s new halo

For one, the DBS teases with every one of its sinuous curves. Aptly

car. And if the phrase also conjures visions of everyone’s favorite secret

likened to a “well-toned athlete in a figure-hugging bodysuit,” the coupe

agent, it’s no coincidence: A concept version of the DBS made its 2006

shows off its flowing lines with carbon-fiber panels that stretch over a

debut in Casino Royale, and the production model will be featured in the

super-rigid aluminum chassis and hint at the hand-built V-12, 5.9-liter

new James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace, due in November.

“muscle” rippling just beneath the surface. As for those sculpted flanks

Those of us who are not Daniel Craig or his stunt driver had to

and the swooping spoiler? Gorgeous, to be sure, but functional too. They

wait until earlier this year to experience firsthand the DBS’s break-

enhance the aerodynamics that take the two-seater from 0 to 62 mph in

through blend of refinement and sheer power, something head

4.3 seconds. Push this wide, low-riding racer to its 191 mph max (Aston’s

designer Marek Reichmann worked hard to attain. His goal was to

fastest ever), and the optimal airflow guarantees unwavering stability.

marry ultra-lightweight design, new technology and optimal weight

Like any seductress, the DBS is also a masterful confidence

distribution in a fast, strong, agile car that rivets the eye as well as

booster. Take, for example, the rear-mounted 6-speed manual transmission. Precise and responsive, it gives you the power to place the

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M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O writes frequently about automobiles. She is also

car wherever you like, even when taking sharp corners at high speed.

writing the libretto for an opera by German composer Christof Bergman.

Racers-at-heart will want to switch the Adaptive Damping System to

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“Track” mode, which keeps the suspension stiff for more aggressive

As if toying with the notion that the DBS can drive anyone out of

(read: damn fun) handling. Transitioning from smooth, dry pavement

their mind with desire, Aston designed a standout “key”—a polished

to slick, steep or otherwise challenging terrain? In default mode, the

sapphire crystal and stainless-steel fob. Billed as something resem-

Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) system

bling “a fine wristwatch or a piece of con-

will kick in, guaranteeing maximum trac-

THE DBS AT A GLANCE

temporary sculptural jewelry,” it’s inserted

tion. Those who prefer to take charge can

BASE PRICE $265,000

into a crystal-encircled “docking” station

disengage DSC with the press of a button.

STANDARD ENGINE

that glows red when the car is ready to

And when it comes to pushing buttons, a sleek console full of solid aluminum knobs and chronograph-style instruments makes it a pleasure. Alcantara-trimmed

| ADAPTIVE DAMPING SYSTEM (ADS)

start. The engine then fires up when the sapphire is pressed flush with the surface of the starter button. But perhaps the biggest wink of all is its name: the Emotional

leather seats electronically adjust 10 ways

| DYNAMIC STABILITY CONTROL (DSC)

Control Unit (ECU). Could it be a reminder

to provide maximum comfort for the long

| SPORTS SEATS WITH 10-WAY ELECTRONIC ADJUSTMENT

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ANGUILLA Five-star resort or private villa? Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ALTERNATE PERFECTIONS on this Caribbean island |

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BY I A N K E O W N

8/28/08 5:16:15 PM

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I M A GE S C O URTE SY O F : RO L F G O T TWAL D FO T O D ES I GN , C HRI S CAL DI CO T T, CE RU LE AN V I L LA

SOFT, WHITE SAND—mile after glistening mile of it—was all Anguilla

Stepping into the arched atrium lobby with its imposing triptych by

seemed to offer when I first visited in 1974. But fortunately, it was

Haiti’s Jasmin Joseph, its intricate raw-silk tapestries and hand-carved

also blessed with far-sighted people. They looked at other islands, noted

wooden figurines, I felt I’d strayed to a grand manoir in Provence. The

the pitfalls of unfettered development and resolved that Anguilla would

55 rooms and suites are divided among the bluff-top lodge and a col-

focus on high-end resorts for sophisticated, urbane travelers.

lection of two-story, four-suite villas. Sunbeams filter through Brazilian

Today, Anguilla still has fewer hotel rooms than some single resorts

teak louvers and dapple the quarry tile floors—it’s all very romantic.

elsewhere, and there are no all-inclusives, casinos, spring-break hordes

And spacious: Guest rooms in the main lodge are 20 feet by 18 feet,

or high-rises. But you will find classic Caribbean tranquility and friendli-

with decks only a few feet smaller. Each villa comes with its own ser-

ness—along with outstanding restaurants and a new world-class golf

vice pantry, perfect for languorous bathrobe breakfasts on the balcony,

course designed by Australia’s Greg Norman. And the coastline is

attended by two maids—one to set out the Limoges china and fresh

rimmed with some of the most indulgent lodgings anywhere.

flowers; another to serve piping-hot croissants and pots of tea, freshly

The islanders struck gold with their first luxury resort, Malliouhana

146

prepared in the pantry below.

Hotel & Spa, which opened in 1984. Its gardens are pure joy—30 acres

Owners Leon Roydon and his son Nigel, cultivated English gentle-

of landscaping to beguile the senses: royal palms for shade, purple

men, are ever-present, day and night, keeping an eye on the details. They

and yellow allamanda for color, night-blooming jasmine for fragrance,

assign eight employees to look after the beaches, 17 gardeners to keep

hibiscus and bougainvillea in profusion.

the crotons and hibiscus picture-perfect and nannies to staff the children’s

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own beachside playground (it cost a cool $1 million). Their wine list (1,240 selections, 30,000 bottles in stock, prices up to $2,000) complements cuisine masterminded by a Michelin-starred chef from Paris. Michel Rostang’s Rostang at Malliouhana is one of the culinary gems that have put Anguilla on the foodies’ map. Its Antibes-meets-the-Antilles setting is created by an open fan-shaped pavilion above the sparkling sea. Dinner at Rostang—say, le vivaneau entiere en croûte de sel or le carré d’agneau de l’Aveyron rôti—fittingly concludes days spent flaking out on two beaches or around two swimming pools, working out in an open exercise pavilion above the beach, playing tennis (four lighted courts), or enjoying one of the three private suites at Malliouhana’s stunning 15,000-square-foot oceanfront spa. But wonderful as Malliouhana is, for utter indulgence nothing beats a private villa with a staff of 14. I discovered this when my wife and I took our teenage daughter and a school chum to join friends for a few days at Cerulean Villa, an architectdesigned, seven-bedroom spread on the beach at Barnes Bay. Cerulean opened in 1997 and quickly became the retreat of choice for movie biggies, executives on hush-hush retreats, pop divas and families of high net worth and high expectations. (One family actually sends a 14-page list of special instructions for each visit.) Its two-story, geometric façade sweeps around 3,000 square feet of

SOME ENCHANTED EVENING AT MICHEL ROSTANG’S AWARD-WINNING EATERY MIGHT INCLUDE ANGUILLAN LOBSTER, LEFT, SERVED ALFRESCO BY CANDLELIGHT—WITH MUSIC.

PERCHED ON A DRAMATIC ROCKY BLUFF ON ANGUILLA’S WEST END, 15 MINUTES FROM THE AIRPORT, MALLIOUHANA HOTEL & SPA OFFERS 55 ROOMS AND SUITES AND TWO INVITING SANDY BEACHES. OWNERS LEON AND NIGEL ROYDON PRIDE THEMSELVES ON THEIR METICULOUS BRITISH HOSPITALITY.

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THE SKY’S THE LIMIT WHEN IT COMES TO SERVICE AT CERULEAN VILLA (RIGHT AND OPPOSITE), JUST AS THE SKY’S BLUE INSPIRED ITS NAME. THE VILLA’S WHITE GEOMETRY STANDS IN STARK CONTRAST TO THE BRIGHT HUES OF LOCAL FLORA AND FAUNA.

terrace with a 40-foot-by-25-foot freshwater pool and Kingsley Bate patio loungers, set beside a leafy garden with topiary casuarina trees and one of the Caribbean’s most beautiful beaches. An arcaded indoor-outdoor living room leads to a formal dining room and a high-ceilinged circular sitting room with blue Moroccan mosaics and tiles on encircling benches, a gently splashing fountain beneath a domed ceiling. As at Malliouhana, the emphasis here is on personal service. “Let us surprise you,” said the villa’s general manager, Bruce Hearn, a seasoned Caribbean hotelier. So one day we ended up on a 48-foot Sunseeker Superhawk speedboat bound for an uninhabited island for a luxurious beach “picnic.” The staff had set up a large white awning above a white-clothed table and white canvas chairs before greeting us at the water’s edge with trays of champagne flutes. Another day, we were promised “something special for dinner”: A table on the beach surrounded by tiki lamps, a bonfire and a local combo playing soft island music made a perfect backdrop for fresh Anguillan lobster, shrimp on skewers and other barbecued fare. For recreation we had an ample choice of kayaks, Sunfish sailers and mountain bikes. Fitness buffs found a small air-conditioned gym, and tennis players took a pathway overhung with white oleander to the Cerulean tennis court and a small courtside pavilion with an endless supply of chilled water and chilled towels. We could play our morning foursome as long as we liked, knowing our private chef would wait until the game was over before tossing the lemon muffins in the oven. Cerulean’s chef de cuisine, Anderson Gumbs, is a young Anguillan mentored in the kitchens of Rostang at Malliouhana who has augmented his nouvelle repertoire with Asian fusion and his grandmother’s recipes. We all discovered an inclination (it happens, I’m told, with most guests) to stay put in the evening and dine on our own terrace, enjoying tender breezes and starry skies along with the fine cuisine. There was more of this island’s beauty and luxury to experience, but for the moment we were immobilized by bliss.

RESOURCES FOR PLANNING A TRIP TO ANGUILLA www.anguilla-vacation.com

I A N K E O W N , author of Caribbean Hideaways (Frommer), has been covering

www.malliouhana.com

the Caribbean beat for more than 30 years.

www.cerulean-villa.com FA L L

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{ the sporting life }

BY M A R K D O W D E N

Going downhill fast in

UTAH

Powder power: Among the gems in Utah’s ski-resort crown is Snowbird, renowned for its epic terrain.

IF YOU LIVE IN PHILADELPHIA and like to ski, Utah has three great virtues:

way right (as you face downhill) to Stein’s Way, the signature run. Stein’s

1. massive quantities of superbly light snow;

begins on a platform that gives you the illusion of skiing on a sky bridge;

2. massive variety, with more than 10 resorts clustered near Salt Lake City;

the land drops off so steeply on either side that all you can see is distant

3. easy access. You can hop a morning flight from Philadelphia and be on

views and a ribbon of white in front of you. The slope quickly comes back

the slopes in the afternoon. The closest ski areas of the Wasatch Moun-

into view, and you’re enjoying groomed rollers that stretch for the better

tains are a 30-minute drive from the Salt Lake airport.

part of a mile. Except for a short bit of 70° double-black steep (which one

Whether I’m skiing with friends or my wife and kids, my routine in

can ski around), Stein’s offers intermediate terrain.

Utah is to keep moving, hitting a different resort each day. The recent

Ski hard in the morning because you’ll be overeating at lunch. Whether

record is six mountains in six straight days. My 40-something-year-old bud-

you choose table service or go for the famous buffet, you’ll find the on-

dies and I probably should have rested on day three of that trip, but even

mountain food is the best anywhere. After lunch, try Ontario Bowl for a

on day six—assisted by Advil—we managed miles of smiles at Snowbird.

gentle taste of backcountry skiing smack in the middle of the resort. After a

To help you plan a trip or just whet your appetite for winter, here are high

short, easy hike up an access road and through a line of trees, you’ll wend

points of a six-day itinerary:

through a powdery meadow, choose a line for some tree shots, and then

Stay in Park City, the old mining town that went upscale for the 2002

find yourself miraculously back on a green trail.

Olympics and has been getting tonier ever since. Spend day one at Deer

Deer Valley can be addictive. My friend Andy Cruikshank liked it so

Valley, which tops all ski resorts in North America for amenities. Work your

much that he took half a year off from lawyering in D.C. to do full-time ski

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The Tunnel at Snowbird (top left) quickly transports skiers through the mountain to Mineral Basin (bottom left), the backside of the Bird. At Snowbasin (above), the day lodges just may be the finest in North America. Among the pleasures of The Canyons (this frame) is the broad slope called 94 Turns, the easiest way down from Ninety-nine 90 peak.

patrol here. But it’s day two, you’re moving on to The Canyons, another Park City resort.

172

Day four: Head out from Park City, down Parley’s Canyon toward Salt Lake and then up the parallel canyon to the south—Big Cotton-

The Canyons is massive, stretching several miles from side to

wood. The trip takes just half an hour, but the terrain in Big Cottonwood

side. Head right when you get off the gondola and ski to the bottom

is very different. Sheer rock cliffs tower above you on either side as

of the Tombstone Express lift. Warm up on Tombstone, then head for

your car snakes up the lone road. There are two resorts back here,

Ninety-nine 90 peak. The name refers to the elevation at the top. For

Solitude and Brighton. Choose the aptly named Solitude, which has a

a quick and easy out-of-bounds experience (on the front side of the

distinctly alpine feel. Work right to the Roller Coaster lift, which leads to

hill), hike up to the backcountry access gate, then work right to the un-

the Summit lift. Craggy and wooded, the terrain at the top is movie-set

named bowl. You can choose your line, from gentle to steep, depend-

gorgeous, and the runs are infinitely varied. You can go off-piste for fun

ing on how far you glide out along the ridge. This bowl dumps into a

in the trees and then link up with a trail at any point. Don’t miss Honey-

charming wooded area called Talus Garden. Take the Peak 5 lift, then

comb Canyon, the backside of Solitude, which you can reach from the

ski to the base of the Daybreak and Dreamscape lifts, where you’ll find

Summit lift. Among other sights, you’ll see ruined pioneer cabins that

chefs at an outdoor grill producing burgers for a late morning snack.

you can literally ski through.

On day three, head north to Snowbasin, a 45-minute drive from

Day five: Drive two canyons south of Park City to Little Cotton-

Park City. Site of the downhill competition at the 2002 Olympics, Snow-

wood Canyon, home to two of the world’s most storied ski resorts,

basin is an isolated mountain with no base village (that will change),

Alta and Snowbird. At no-frills Alta, where grooming is minimal, the

but the ski lodges are the most beautiful I’ve seen. Built for the games

quintessential runs are the bowls. You need to hit Ballroom, which is

as a matter of national pride, they remind me of the grand old lodge at

vast and mighty, and Greeley Bowl. Just getting to Greeley via High

Yellowstone, only fancier. The key run at the Basin is the men’s Olym-

Traverse—or by zigging through stony gates and across East Greeley—

pic downhill course. Take the tiny Mt. Allen tram to the run marked

is enjoyable. There are dozens of ways to ski these bowls, and you

“men’s start.” The trip up is almost as fun as the trip down.

could spend all day exploring variations.

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Alta has plentiful powder and

Snowbird’s base glows at nightfall.

a low-key atmosphere. Below,

You can make out the lights of

Honeycomb Canyon offers an

Salt Lake City, mingled with the

easy backcountry experience

sunset, in the distance.

at Solitude.

Day six: You’ve saved perhaps the best for last—Snowbird, with its epic terrain and 1970s, ski bum vibe. Take the aerial tram to the summit and warm up on a groomed black. That could be Last Chance, but you’ll need to check the grooming report to know. A not-to-bemissed novelty at Snowbird is the Tunnel, a keyhole drilled through the mountain to give easy access to Mineral Basin, the backside of the Bird. Step off the Peruvian Express lift and onto a conveyor belt that takes you into what feels like a cross between a silver mine and the Bat Cave. The best part is the light at the end of the tunnel: an endless panorama of the Wasatch, peak after snow-capped peak for as far as the eye can see. Mineral Basin is like a smaller version of Vail’s Back Bowls. It’s still plenty big, and it connects with Alta via the Baldy Express lift. Buy a combo Alta-Snowbird ticket, and presto, you have access to nearly 5,000 skiable acres. Après-ski at Snowbird, hit the Tram Club bar, located directly under the base of the aerial tram. Here you’ll really feel the ’70s mood—the décor has barely changed—as you suck down beers and discuss the day’s exploits.

Stein’s Way (above) is the signature run at Deer Valley, known for its meticulous grooming; here you see a snowcat at work on the slope. Adjacent to Stein’s (this frame), Mayflower Bowl offers a taste of ungroomed powder.

M A R K D O W D E N will ski with you anywhere, schedule permitting. FA L L

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{ grape }

Côtes du Rhône Standout:

DOMAINE

MOURCHON

BY C Y N T H I A H U R L E Y

I SANK INTO A CHAIR on the terrace, took in my Rhône surroundings

was an old pigeonnier with one wall standing and certainly no winery

and closed my jaw, which had been hanging open. The vines were

at all. It had all come together perfectly.

slightly below us in soldierly rows and stretched into the distance

I took a sip of my rosé. It woke up my tongue with a nervous

on gently rounded hills. The vines seemed far away and, at the same

little poke, as good rosé is supposed to if the acidity is just right.

time, all enveloping. There were rows upon rows and hills upon hills.

There was a dash of syrah here, that sturdy little black cherry–

Walter and Ronnie McKinlay have owned Domaine de Mourchon

flavored grape that goes into the best wines of the Rhône, and a bit

since 1998, when Walter, a Scotsman, sold his computer business

of grenache and cinsault as well. “We call our rosé Loubié,” Walter

and decided he wanted to own a vineyard. Sometimes he pulls a

schooled. All I know is I felt like I was drinking a gorgeous sunset.

long face and leans in conspiratorially to share that owning a vine-

One side of the terrace was paned glass, a wise and experienced

yard was perhaps more work than he initially had in mind, but how

response to the mistral (Provence’s only shortcoming), which can

can I really ache for him when he has made such a stunning success

rip across the land for up to nine days at time and drive one a little

of it all?

bonkers (Walter’s words). Certainly the benefits of the breeze out-

I continued to look about. There were olive trees and a gar-

176

weigh the drawbacks since it sweeps the vineyards free of pests on

den neatly laid out awaiting the spring planting. The vista seemed

a regular basis.

shrouded in a sagey-colored frosting as though I were gazing

When Ronnie and Walter McKinlay, top left, purchased land behind the

through the special lens of Terrence Malick (remember the film Days

village of Séguret, it was simply 17 hectares of vines that were vinified at

of Heaven?). It was easy to see why Walter and Ronnie had decided

the local cooperative. They built a house, top right, and established the

to take on Domaine de Mourchon, even though when they started it

Domaine de Mourchon brand in 1998.

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A Scotsman in Côtes du Rhône: McKinlay sold his information technology business to retire on a vineyard. But the extraordinary land on the slopes of Mont Ventoux drew him deeper into the new venture.

Séguret is a small village clinging to a hillside in the southern Rhône Valley, not too far north from Avignon. The first vines were

of cinnamon and spice. Then, of course, there is the rosé Loubié, already mentioned.

planted here in the 13th century. About 20 vineyard areas in the

This winery is state of the art, with table de tri for sorting

southern Rhône are officially allowed to add their name to their label

every grape carefully to make sure there are no inferior ones in the

due to superior terroir. Séguret is one of these privileged villages.

final blend, and designed to use gravity to pamper the grapes as they

Domaine de Mourchon is behind the village of Séguret, about

transfer to vat.

350 meters up on a twisty little way. The winery will be on your left.

Ronnie and Walter had asked me to stay for dinner, and in

It is a modern beauty with shiny stainless-steel tanks configured in a

between snatches of spicy political predictions about the future of

circle in one room. Why, not long ago a chamber ensemble gathered

France and the United States we drain meaty, delicious aged Côtes

among the tanks in this very spot to soothe the grapes and beguile

du Rhône Villages paired splendidly with Ronnie’s daube. Walter, be-

a few guests with some Mozart and Haydn. I imagine the acoustics

ing a Scotsman, finished the evening with a small dram of very un-

were superb. Then there is the tasting room, which is sun-splashed

Provençal, very old, very good Scotch. And they call this the simple

and painted in Provençal hues of dusty pinks and earthy tones. If

country life!

you’re serious about your viticulture, you have only to walk the walk at Domaine de Mourchon. Visitors can promenade for two kilometers

DOMAINE DE MOURCHON

through the vineyards while learning from an expert all about how

CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES SÉGURET

grapes grow. It’s very hard to leave this place. One could linger for a good

TASTE | TRADITION RED 2006: RICH, CONCENTRATED, WITH RASPBERRY, BLACKBERRY AND SPICE NOTES. GRANDE RÉSERVE RED 2006: ELEGANT AND RICH, WITH INTENSE

part of the day tasting through the Domaine de Mourchon lineup.

FRUITS AND SOME SPICE

The Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret Tradition is minerally and darkly hued. The Grande Réserve, from old vines, is raised in some oak barrels and has a bit more structure and concentration and hints

BEST DRUNK WITH | RED MEAT, GAME, CHEESE, ANYTHING GRILLED BEST YEARS | 2005, 2006 PRICE | TRADITION FROM $15, GRANDE RÉSERVE FROM $25

178

C Y N T H I A H U R L E Y is an importer of French wines and the

WHERE TO FIND IT | ASK YOUR WINE MERCHANT OR FIND IT ONLINE AT

wine columnist for France magazine.

WWW.WINE-SEARCHER.COM

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{ malt }

BY M A R K D O W D E N

a honey from Orkney HIGHLAND PARK IS the most celebrated WHISKY GOING—AND FOR GOOD REASON FOR THE PAST DECADE, the whisky most univer-

of the islands, home to three out of four Orcadians,

sally revered by critics has been Highland Park. It

or some 15,000 souls. Its main town, Kirkwall, is also

is named not for the Scottish Highlands but for the

home to two distilleries, Scapa and Highland Park.

distillery’s perch on a hill in Kirkwall, Orkney.

Sitting half a mile beyond Scapa, Highland Park holds

Orkney is an archipelago of 70-odd islands off the northern coast of Scotland. Fewer than a third

the distinction of being the northernmost distillery in the world.

are inhabited. Papa Westray, with a population of

The greatness of its whisky lies in balanced

70, is the site of the Knap of Howar, the

complexity. Honeyed and heathery, peat-tinged and

oldest preserved house—5,500 years

slightly smoky, Highland Park is jam-packed with

old—in northern Europe. Auskerry

layered, harmonious flavors, an achievement made

has a population of five. Gairsay is

possible by the unique ingredients, the constant cool-

inhabited by a single family, which

ness of the Orkney climate and an uncompromisingly

is authorized to issue its own post-

obsessive approach to whisky making.

age stamps because the Royal Mail

While most distilleries tout the softness of

does not service this speck of land.

their water, Highland Park uses hard water. The

And then there is the Mainland, the

sources are Crantit Spring to the west of the dis-

euphemistic name for the largest

tillery and a pond called Cattie Maggie’s Quarry

The town of Kirkwall, Orkney, is home to the world’s northernmost distilleries. At Highland Park, an obsessive approach yields what many critics call the most complete Scotch whisky.

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Clockwise from right: The peat reek can be seen wafting through the distillery’s pagoda roof. Below, peat burns in the kiln. On the malt floor, a worker uses a wooden shovel to turn the grain. At left, whiskey “sleeps” in old sherry casks, a key to the Highland Park flavor profile.

half a mile to the east. The flagstone base of the quarry suffuses

American oak, which yields vanilla and butterscotch flavors, and some

the water with minerals.

are made of European oak, which gives the whisky dried-fruit flavors.

A second key is hand-turned malt. After the barley germinates, it

Highland Park uses both types. The size of the oak vessel also affects

is spread on the malting floor for five to seven days, during which time

the flavor profile. A variety of cask sizes—butts, puncheons and hogs-

it is turned every eight hours to prevent overheating and “matting”

heads but never barrels—are used to age Highland Park.

(intertwining of the rootlets). Only five distilleries still turn their malt by hand on the premises. The third key is peat, the ancient degenerating vegetation prevalent on the Scottish isles. Peat is to island whisky what terroir is to

A final key to the character of this whisky is cask harmonization: Whisky from different casks is vatted together to ensure the right balance of flavors and color. The vatted whisky is then refilled into casks for at least another six months of aging before being bottled.

wine: Local variations in the composition of peat, which fuels the

The youngest bottling of Highland Park, the 12-year-old, is

kilns that smoke the malt, impart distinctive flavors. Highland Park

smooth, sweet and slightly smoky, tasting of honey and spiced fruits,

owns Hobbister Moor, whose peat is harvested from three strata:

with an orangey finish. Older expressions are more rounded and con-

Fogg, the top layer, is a mere 1,800 years old and rich in heather,

sistently outstanding. The 18-year-old was called “Best Spirit in the

which generates a massive amount of floral smoke when burned.

World”—the most perfect whisky he had encountered in a quarter

Yarphie, the middle layer, produces less smoke. Moss, the deepest

century—by writer F. Paul Pacult in 2005. The 25-year-old is, if any-

layer and 9,000 years old, is so black and compacted as to be coal-

thing, more ambrosial. Creamy, honeyed, nutty, tasting of citrus and

like. The next sentence is best read in a Scottish accent: The three

faintly of roses, this dram is very sweet and intensely flavored for its

layers of peat are burned in a proprietary proportion, burned in a smol-

age. You will not taste a better Scotch.

dering fire, whose reek is absorbed by the malt. Skip forward, past distillation, to the aging process. Aging in wood

TASTING NOTES

is said to be responsible for up to 80 percent of a whisky’s character.

HIGHLAND PARK 25-YEAR-OLD

Today almost all Scotch is aged in ex-bourbon barrels from Kentucky,

C O L O R | Deep copper, clear and bright

but Highland Park is aged primarily in Oloroso sherry casks from Spain. A sherry cask typically costs 10 times as much as a bourbon barrel, but the character it imparts is essential to the Highland Park flavor profile.

N O S E | Honey, sherry, chocolate, old oak, cinnamon, rum-soaked raisins, cherries, walnuts PA L AT E | Syrupy at first, followed by a pleasing dryness. Honey, toffee and pistachio.

Oranges and lemons, roses, wisps of wood smoke, sherry

Even Oloroso casks differ from one another: Some are made of F I N I S H | Intense sweetness mingled with a soft haze of smoke. Orange and faint vanilla

182

M A R K D O W D E N was educated at the University of St. Andrews,

flavors give way to a lingering spiciness

where he learned about pot stills and pot bunkers.

PRICE | $230 to $270

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{ finishing touch }

The Man Rules POLITICALLY CORRECT? HARDLY. The principles of intersex communica-

1. You can either ask us to do something or tell us how you

tion below come from an unknown author in cyberspace, who offers

want it done. Not both. If you already know best how to do it, just

“rules” from a man’s viewpoint. We print them

do it yourself.

purely for entertainment value—because whatever your perspective on the inner workings of the male mind,

1. Whenever possible, please say whatever you have to say during commercials.

you’re sure to find humor here. (All items are numbered “1” on

1. Christopher Columbus did not need

purpose, the author insists.)

directions and neither do we.

1. Men are not mind readers.

1. Men see in only 16 colors, like Windows default settings.

1. Learn to work the toilet

Peach, for example, is a fruit, not

seat. You’re a big girl. If it’s up,

a color. Pumpkin is also a fruit.

put it down. You don’t hear us

We have no idea what

complaining about your leav-

mauve is.

ing it down. 1. If it itches, it will be 1. Sunday sports—it’s like

scratched. We do that.

the full moon or the changing of the tides. Let it be.

1. If we ask what is wrong and you say

1. Crying is blackmail.

“nothing,” we will act like nothing’s wrong.

1. Ask for what you want. Let

We know you are lying,

us be clear on this one. Subtle hints

but it is just not worth

do not work. Strong hints do not work.

the hassle.

Obvious hints do not work. Just say it! 1. If you ask a question you don’t want an 1. “Yes” and “No” are perfectly acceptable

answer to, expect an answer you don’t

answers to almost every question.

want to hear.

1. Come to us with a problem only if you

1. When we have to go somewhere, abso-

want help solving it. That’s what

lutely anything you wear is fine … really!

we do. Sympathy is what your girlfriends are for.

1. Don’t ask us what we’re thinking about unless you are prepared to discuss such topics

1. Anything we said six months

as baseball or golf.

ago is inadmissible in an argument. In 1. I am in shape. Round is a shape!

1. If you think you’re fat, you probably are. Don’t ask us.

1. Thank you for reading this.

1. If something we said can be interpreted two ways, and one of the

Yes, I know I have to sleep on the couch tonight, but did you know

ways makes you sad or angry, we meant the other one.

men really don’t mind that? It’s like camping.

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I LL US TR AT I O N BY SA RA H W I LK I N S

184

fact, all comments become null and void after seven days.

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