CD Peacock Fall/Winter 2021

Page 34

Timepieces

THE NEW ‘BAY’ WATCH

Tudor’s Black Bay P01 combines today’s sporty style with a deep dive into the innovations of the past. While countless watch wearers around the world value having a Tudor on their wrist, few know about the company’s long history with the

drives the Black Bay P01 meets Tudor’s high

U.S. Navy. Beginning in the 1950s, Tudor began

standards for robustness, longevity and reli-

supplying the Navy with divers’ watches, and it

ability. It features an openwork rotor that is

eventually found lasting success with the Oyster

satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and

Prince Submariner 7928. However, in 1967, the

its bridges and plate have alternating polished

company began to develop a new watch for the

sand-blasted surfaces and laser decorations.

Navy—one that would meet the specifications

Moreover, the Caliber MT5612 is certified as a

decreed by the U.S. government and incorporate

chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer

the results of the latest research into function-

Testing Institute. And, as might be expected, the

ality and ergonomics carried out by the brand’s

Black Bay P01 is waterproof to 200 meters.

top-notch engineers. This ambitious project, code named “Com-

The watch is fitted with a domed matte-black dial with painted luminescent hour markers;

mando,” never came to fruition, but many of

it adopts the signature Tudor hands with their

its features can be found in the just-released

characteristic angular shape, known to collectors

Tudor Black Bay P01 model (the P01 stands

as “snowflake;” and the 42mm steel case is entirely

for prototype 1). This cross between a diver’s

satin-brushed for a matte finish. The watch’s

watch and a navigator’s watch has been crafted

special hybrid strap has a rubber base with the

in a contemporary sporty spirit, while harking

“snowflake” motif on the back, finished with a

back to innovations developed more than 50

brown leather trim. Finally, with a 70-hour power

years ago. For example, the Black Bay P01

reserve, a wearer can take off the watch on Friday

model does not literally reproduce the proto-

evening and put it back on again Monday morn-

type’s unusual hinged-link system, but borrows

ing without having to reset and wind it.

liberally from it, providing a stop system for the

The result of subtle combinations of histor-

bidirectional rotating bezel via a mobile end-

ical aesthetic codes and contemporary watch

link at 12 o’clock.

technology, the entire Black Bay line, especially

The Manufacture Caliber MT5612 that

the P01, brings together the best qualities of 60

The Tudor Black Bay P01, which stands for prototype 1, was inspired by a 1960s design for the U.S. Navy.

years of Tudor divers’ watches, while remaining firmly anchored in the present.

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