Denny’s Kitchen: Holiday Entertaining

By

JENNIFER P. HENDERSON

Photographs by

NELL HOVING

ENTERTAINING DOYENNE AND FORMER CATERER AND HAMILTON JEWELERS STYLIST DENNY SIEGEL SHARES STORIES OF HER FAVORITE FAMILY GATHERINGS AND GIVES A PREVIEW OF THE MAGIC SHE’S PLANNING FOR THIS YEAR’S HOLIDAY TABLE

“If you take time and care preparing in advance, your party will reflect that and be a joyous event.”

“Let’s have a party.” When I was young, these words echoed throughout my childhood home, often uttered by my mother, a vaudeville entertainer who loved nothing more than a reason to celebrate. Whether it was a small moment or a special occasion, we always had terrific parties—and when I married and had a family, I brought this same love of entertaining into my own home.

We entertained a lot in my house over the years, and made so many incredible memories along the way; among my fondest memories are those during the Thanksgiving holiday. Thanksgiving was always a grand affair: I happily host up to 42 people each year, and it’s always a fabulous time that my children and grandchildren talk about with affection and excitement.

Of course, last year’s holiday looked very different because of the pandemic, and who knows what this year will bring. Nevertheless, I am planning early—once a caterer, always a caterer—and sharing my best suggestions, tips, and a few favorite recipes that I hope will make your next event one to remember, too.

T H E S C H E D U L E

First things first: I create a schedule, which is my habit after being a partner and the chef of a gourmet food store and catering company for so many years.

My philosophy is if you aren’t properly prepped in advance, you won’t be able to throw your event and enjoy it, too—which is particularly true during the hustle and bustle of the holiday season.

Here’s my go-to checklist to get you started:

SIX WEEKS BEFORE:

Make your guest list. A party of any occasion should be a gathering of people you care about who have been invited to socialize, celebrate, or gather “just because.”

Deliver your invitations. I like to handwrite cards to my guests, but there are several “paperless” e-invite options available to make sending out invitations easy.

FOUR WEEKS BEFORE:

Plan your menu. This is my favorite part of the process because

I get to pour over my recipe folders and my cookbooks. (I read cookbooks like novels, and I have more than I can count.)

Plan your bar set-up. Make your cocktail, wine, and soft-drink selections, and check your glassware.

Develop your décor. Take a look at your table linens and napkins to make sure what you need is ready to be on display. Decide on what floral arrangements you might want (and where you’ll place them).

Pull down the platters. Choose the platter and serving pieces you know you’ll need for the menu you’re presenting. Make labels of what food will be placed in each so when the big day arrives, you’ll be ready to dish out the dishes.

THREE WEEKS BEFORE:

Prepare the pastry. For time-consuming items like cookies and pies, make your pastry early and then wrap it in cling wrap, label, and freeze it. (This hack also applies to any other desserts or hors d’oeuvres that can be made in advance and frozen.)

Go to market. Shop early for any nonperishable pantry items (e.g., sea salt, espresso powder).

Purchase and wrap guest gifts. I love surprising guests with a small favor at the end of the evening. For the holidays, I send everyone home with a small ornament or box of my favorite chocolates or cookies.

ONE WEEK BEFORE:

Set the scene. Lay out the table linens, and put labeled platters and serving pieces in place. Arrange your bar, including the liquor and red wine (keep white wine refrigerated until just before guests arrive); rinse, dry, and set out glasses. Pro tip: Cover the table and bar with sheets to keep dust at bay.

Prep the condiments. Make sauces and or dressings that will keep in the refrigerator for a few days.

Go to market … again. Purchase your produce, meats, and dairy within two days of the event. This also includes any flora and fruits to enhance the décor.

Create signage. In addition to seating cards, I also like to make small placards to accompany the different dishes, particularly the cheeses, when I serve buffet style.

THE DAY OF:

Make the final touches. Set up the powder rooms with hand towels and soap. Create a festive playlist. Light the fire and any candles, and adjust other ambient lighting. Place floral arrangements. Combine apple slices, oranges, cinnamon sticks, star anise, ginger, whole cloves, and cardamom in a saucepan filled with water, and set to a low simmer to create a festive aroma.

“I like to create a separate space for setting up and showcasing the dessert. This area should be prepped with its own smaller napkins, plates, and utensils. You can also carry over the décor from the main table with miniature arrangements of cinnamon sticks, a couple of brightly colored flowers in a silver cup, and tucks of green foliage on the serving trays.”

“At the beginning of November, I fill large baskets with apples in and around my house, and by time the holidays arrive, the aroma is beautiful.”

“I like to serve homemade soup during this time of year; not only is its warmth comforting, guests also will feel the love put into its preparation. For a festive flair, I pour individual servings into crystal glasses so people can enjoy it without fussing with balancing a bowl and spoon on their laps.”

“For centerpieces, I love mounding fruit in crystal bowls: persimmons and oranges studded with cloves; lady apples with the leaves and stems intact; bunches of Concord or Crimson grapes; garlands of green foliage like magnolia or eucalyptus leaves; and cinnamon sticks tucked in here and there for fun.”

“Every Thanksgiving, I enlist my granddaughters to help make the seating and buffet place cards. I have saved them, and continue to use them as much as I can; they are lovely reminders of holidays past.”

“Over the years, I have collected quite a number of linens to use for entertaining. Instead of choosing just one for my main table, I like to layer and drape two or three for a luxurious, unique, and festive look.”

THIS CROWD-PLEASING CORN MUFFIN RECIPE IS IN MY PERMANENT SPECIAL-OCCASION MENU ROTATION BECAUSE THEY’RE EASY TO PREPARE AHEAD OF TIME.

Double Corn Muffins

Makes 10 Muffins

INGREDIENTS:

1¼ cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup stone-ground yellow cornmeal 1 Tbs. baking powder ¼ tsp. fine sea salt 8 Tbs. unsalted butter, chilled and cut into ½-inch cubes ½ cup superfine sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten ¼ cup whole milk 1 (7 oz.) can vacuum-packed corn, drained

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Preheat oven to 400° F. Put rack in center position. 2. Spray muffin tins and insert liners. 3. In large bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. 4. Beat butter in mixer on high, scraping sides often, until very light in color and texture, about five minutes.

Gradually beat in the eggs, beating well after each addition. 5. Reduce the mixer to low. In thirds, beat in the flour mixture, alternating with two equal additions of the milk, and scraping down the sides often. Mix until smooth. Stir in the corn. 6. Using a 2 ½-inch diameter scoop, fill the tins. 7. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 375° F and continue baking until muffins are golden brown or toothpick inserted comes out clean, approximately 15 minutes. 8. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Remove muffins from pan, and cool completely.

HAMILTON 94 For more holiday recipes from Denny’s Kitchen, visit hamiltonjewelers.com.

1. William Yeoward Fern Champagne Bucket

“A beautiful bottle of champagne resting in an equally lovely bucket of ice is a simple way to add some effortless style to your bar area.” 2. Baccarat Harcourt 1841 Coupe

“I love a coupe champagne glass. It’s a very glamorous look, and retro, too: Originally popular in the 1950s, this Harcourt Pattern from Baccarat is a must-have for any elegant table.”

As the one-time display designer for Hamilton, Denny knows how to create a beautiful tablescape for every occasion and shares her favorite pieces for making it merry, too. the HJ Style Edit: Denny’s Picks for Holiday Entertaining

3. Mottahedeh Famille 3. Mottahedeh Famille Verte Cookie Tray Verte Cookie Tray

“Functional and festive, this cookie serving tray “Functional and festive, this cookie serving tray from Mottahedeh was inspired by 18th-century porcelain. from Mottahedeh was inspired by 18th-century porcelain. I like to use this alongside my vintage English I like to use this alongside my vintage English Staffordshire Transferware.” Staffordshire Transferware.” 4. William Yeoward English Giralda Salad Plates

“Just like with my linens, I love to mix and match different china patterns and vintages, too, to make my table more interesting to the eye.”

5. William Yeoward Yeoward Edwina Tazza Cake Stand

“A footed cake plate makes any dessert even more special. I stack different sizes of the tazzas (i.e., stands) of this stylish William Yeoward piece on top of each other to create a dramatic tower of treats.” plate even stack the William top create