Grape Expectations

Grape Expectations

PROVIDING EUROPEAN HOSPITALITY, AWARD-WINNING WINES, AND A SOULFUL SENSE OF COMMUNITY, HOPEWELL VALLEY VINEYARDS IS A PLACE OF CELEBRATION, CONNECTION, AND SUPPORT FOR MERCER COUNTY AND BEYOND

By

RAE PADULO

Photographs by

NELL HOVING

In the heart of Hopewell Township, sunshine golden as Vidal Blanc washes over lush rows of grape-laden vines, a cream-colored winery edged in stone, and a lingering-friendly courtyard. Except for the sign reading “Hopewell Valley Vineyards,” you might think you’re in the picturesque Italian countryside.

The romantic setting of nearly 75 acres at the foot of the Sourland Mountains is one thing, but there are two more important reasons the vineyard looks and feels the welcoming way it does: its owners, Sergio and Violetta Neri, who are Italian and Greek respectively, and of two warm, family-centric cultures that jive beautifully in both marriage and wine.

Planting Roots

After the sale of a family business in Milan, Sergio felt the time was right not only for something new for himself, but also for finding the education and support needed to care for one of his two sons, Davide, who is autistic. With better options available in the U.S., Sergio, his other son Matteo, and Davide settled in Pennington, New Jersey, thanks to Davide’s acceptance at the renowned Princeton Child Development Institute.

Here, Sergio met Violetta and her two daughters, Melina and Alexandra, who helped his family embrace their new life. Sergio and Violetta married, and from the moment the vineyard opened to the public in 2003, the couple has operated as a true team. Winemaking is in the couple’s blood, going back generations: Sergio’s family owned a vineyard in the renowned Brunello di Montalcino region, and today has vineyards in Tuscany. In northern Greece, Violetta’s grandmother, Evanthia, crafted white wine in barrels for their family, and then taught the ways of the grape to her daughter, Evthokia, and to her granddaughter, Violetta, as well. This strong tradition of winemaking and sense of family continues today at Hopewell Valley Vineyards (HVV).

A Story in Every Bottle

A celebratory expression of local heritage, human connection, and culture, wine is, of course, a forever staple at the dining table, at any party, and at the center of HVV’s whole spirit of being. HVV makes wines in the Old World tradition. “I love the expression, ‘Winemaking is an ancient art and a modern science,’” says Violetta.

With a current canon of nearly 20 wines, the vineyard appeals to New Jersey’s exploratory and evolving palates, but with a yearly output of only about 6,000 cases, it is considered a boutique production that brings out the best in every batch of fruit. The result is handcrafted vintages, each with its own personality, reflecting the grape and the winemaker’s style.

Year after year, the vineyard’s wines continue to win praise and awards. From the popular, ruby-colored Barbera, which spends a minimum of 12 months aging in oak, to the sweet Spuma Rossa— Italian for “pink fizz” and a collaboration between HVV and the Botto family winery at Convento Cappuccini in Piedmont, Italy— there are always new flavors to discover at Hopewell Valley Vineyards. Another highlight includes the Rosso della Valle, a medium-bodied and drinkable wine created by a blend of Cabernet and Chambourcin, the latter a grape that grows very well in New Jersey’s climate, which can experience hot, humid summers.

The Perfect Pairing

To keep the community engaged and customers coming in, the winery hosts a gamut of events from a Wine and Chocolate Weekend to a farm-to-table experience to live music on the weekends. “What we do is first about hospitality,” says Violetta. “Of course, wine is the igniter. You make a good wine, and this is what opens the door. Then you bring in friends who want to toast life. Then here comes the music, the small gatherings, celebrations, weddings—you name it. We have had it all and it’s always so much fun.”

Even the winery’s interior speaks to the Neris’ warm-hearted brand of geniality. The well-designed tasting rooms reflect Sergio’s two engineering degrees, with soaring ceilings, hewn beams, and copper-topped bars. Even the always-busy pizza oven was hand-built by Sergio. “He is a Renaissance man,” Violetta says, with affection. “There’s nothing he can’t do. He’s an engineer. He’s a beautiful pianist. He expanded the winery himself, built the pizza oven himself. And of course, he’s the winemaker.”

The “voice” of the vineyard, Violetta is a force in her own right. When asked if she still likes coming to work every day, even after 20 years, she replies, “I drink, I crack jokes, I laugh. What’s not to like? I’m an extrovert. People give me energy.” With the family home right next door, there’s not much separation between the couple’s professional and personal lives, but that’s just how Violetta likes it.

“On any given day I can be home on the computer, or making a nice stew, and then at 3 p.m. have a wine tasting at the vineyard for 50 people. I go over, glass of red wine in hand. As soon as I’m on that stage, I’m up and running—I’m a show girl! Nothing can stop me. My husband says, “How can you do that?” And I say, ‘This is easy. How can you do all that you do?’ We complement one another.”

Pizza in a Pandemic

For people who love people, the pandemic was a very unwelcome guest. Stateordered closings forced businesses to get creative and pivot. HVV was no exception, and the team promptly developed a pizza and wine “to-go” program. Thanks in part to heavy social media promotion by HVV’s indefatigable event coordinator, Jess Dalton—who Violetta credits as being “key” to both the pizza project’s and vineyard’s overall success—the to-go program took off and helped keep the lights on and every person on their company roster employed.

As soon as things improved, masked customers were allowed to come in, place their orders, and then take their purchases outside to enjoy—on the deck, in the piazza, or under the vineyard’s newly purchased tent.

“We quickly realized we needed more outdoor space, so, like many other establishments, we bought a tent,” says Violetta. “It’s now in permanent rotation from May to November, and used for outdoor events like weddings.”

When mandates lifted, the vineyard brought music back immediately. A baby grand piano has pride of place under a striking, music-inspired painting on the tasting room stage, a poetic tribute of the importance of music to Sergio Neri. An accomplished pianist, Sergio plays in the HVV Jazz Ensemble, which often performs at the winery—and his reserved nature is put aside when he discusses music.

“What goes better with wine than music?” Sergio says. “We’ve turned to more popular music because of the guests’ tastes, but I really love blues and jazz. That’s my thing.”

That love fueled the vineyard’s first regular music event, “Jazzy Sundays,” and the beginning of year-round music programming for guests, on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays—no cover charge or reservations needed. Here, the stars in the sky, a bottle of wine, homemade pizza, and good company all come together to create a spectacular experience for patrons.

Hopewell Valley Vineyards 46 Yard Road Pennington, NJ 08534 609.737.4465 hopewellvalleyvineyards.com PALS on Main 280 North Main Street Pennington, NJ 08534 609.737.2617 palsnj.org

PALS: Friends for Autism

Without Davide Neri, Hopewell Valley Vineyards may never have been, as it was the search for support and education for his autism that brought the family to the Pennington area in the first place. Now an adult, Davide likely will never be able to live on his own. Recognizing this vacuum in the area for quality-of-life services for developmentally disabled adults, the Neris decided to establish Pennington Adult Living Services (PALS) to help fill the void.

“Parents need a break,” Violetta says. “Having support and the proper care allows parents that break. It’s also important for people to be educated about autism. Individuals with autism may have different needs, different abilities, and different disabilities, but at the end of the day, it’s important for them to learn skills and be part of the community.”

Under the guidance of Executive Director Svein Hansen, PALS provides intervention, socialization, and skill-building to individuals with developmental disabilities so that they may achieve more productive, independent, happy lives. With access to behavioral, communitybased, employment, and individual support, PALS “participants” learn basic skills and explore vocation options, all under supervision in a safe environment. Whether it’s making pizza dough, assembling boxes, or creating simple sewing or woodworking projects, participants are able to cultivate a sense of pride and productivity.

PALS on Main is the organization’s downtown Pennington workshop and community store, where both participant-made and other handmade, fair-trade, and recycled items have been carefully selected to fill the shop with color and soul. All sales benefit PALS, whose ambitious future plans include two community residences— one for men, another for women.

“It’s an amazing shop,” says Violetta. “I call it a store with a heart. It’s not a commercial enterprise or a retail store. It’s filled with art, craft, and wonderful things.”

More Than Just A Winery

It’s said that the secret to success is to put one’s heart, mind, and soul into even the smallest acts, and the Neris do just that, beginning with the vineyard’s very first vines, planted in 2001. That same love and attention is also lavished upon their family and business, in caring service to those with developmental disabilities, in support of the community at-large, and the dreams of what comes next.

As the sun drops lower in the sky, talk turns from future plans to those of the current evening. Customers begin to stream into the tasting room, and Violetta welcomes them with a smile and a warm wave. Without skipping a beat, she greets an employee, fields questions from an excited patron, and accepts a glass of red from Sergio.

“As you can see, this is more than a winery. This is a community. Of course, the primary reason we’re all coming together here is the wine,” she says, taking a sip. “But it’s also about connecting family and friends and food and music and health and laughing and talking. Life is a gift.”

Enjoying Life to the Fullest

WHETHER YOU PREFER WHITE OR RED, CRACKERS OR PIZZA, THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERY PALATE AT HOPEWELL VALLEY VINEYARDS. HERE, A SMALL SAMPLING OF ALL THINGS DO-GOOD AND DELICIOUS.

• THE BARBERA

One of the Vineyard’s most popular vintages, this oak-aged red is a customer favorite. Medium-bodied with an intense ruby color, the Barbera pairs perfectly with tomato-based dishes and grilled meats. Its smooth finish is credited to a minimum of 12 months in large oak casks; HVV produces 250 to 300 cases annually, to keep up with the high demand.

• JACK’S SNACKS

Like most Italian food, taralli are made for sharing. This ring-shaped snack is a mainstay on tables in southern Italy—for aperitivo, alongside lunch, with wine and cheese—and HVV has created its own savory version. Named after a young man trained by the PALS program, Jack’s Snacks are tasty crackers produced with estate wine and whole-wheat flour, grown and stone-milled right on site, and made by individuals with autism in a safe and supportive environment.

• THE HVV PINOT GRIGIO

With its distinctive label marked with the “puzzle piece” ribbon that is the universal symbol of autism awareness, this crisp and delicious white wine is a fan favorite, in terms of both taste and mission. The proceeds from the sale of the vineyard’s pinot grigio benefit autism intervention, research, and services.

• THE V

All of the wines at HVV are created by Sergio Neri, except for one: V, the delicious brainchild of Violetta Neri, who only drinks red wine—and every day, naturally. This red is undeniably bold and spicy like its namesake. The Italian-made label, designed by Violetta’s daughter Melina, seductively stands out in embossed red and black.

The latest vintage brought together a striking blend of 50 percent Cabernet, 25 percent Sangiovese, and 25 percent Barbera ... and then promptly sold out. When asked about the next vintage, Violetta says with a smile, “This new V will be different. Because what is wine if you don’t play around with the taste or the aroma?”