Levy's Magazine: Spring/Summer 2009 by Wainscot Media

S P R I N G

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Spring Fashions THE AUDI R8

found in translation: whisky from Japan

Whisky from Japan

golf’s new test at Bandon Dunes

BANDON DUNES

road rocket: the Audi R8

Art of Scott Kay

bedrooms made for dreaming

BEDROOM ESCAPES

Scott Kay: maestro of metal

SPRING / SUMMER 2009

Lighten Up!

Levy’s Guide to Great New Looks

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Scott Kay sterling silver skull bracelet and Tears of Joy cuﬀ wear from the UnKaged collection. w w w.scot t k ay.com

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columns Malt Yamazaki 18-year-old, a complex whisky from Japan, will wow any Scotch lover.

features

Maestro of Metal In the quiet suburb of Teaneck, New Jersey, Scott Kay crafts rock-star–caliber jewelry completely by hand. ~-~ ~-~

The Sporting Life

Audacity Pays Off Audi took a chance on the R8, a mid-engine exotic that goes head to head with revered sports cars and comes out a winner. ~-~ ~-~

And So to Bed … These perfectly tailored bedrooms will set you dreaming.

~-~

Massive greens and hellish bunkers are among the challenges of Old Macdonald, the new golf course at Bandon Dunes.

Finishing Touch ~-~

Lighten Up!

Dos and don’ts for the well-dressed man.

Lightweight fabrics and saturated colors make these great new looks easy to wear. ~-~ ~-

Cover:

On her: Armani Collezioni suit and top, Nancy Mitchell necklace. On him: Etro sportcoat and printed cotton shirt, Nudie jeans, Scott Kay bracelet. Photography by Daniel Springston.

A Rolling Highland Fling 12

Great food, single malts and bonhomie prove to be just the ticket aboard the most luxurious of touring trains. ~-~ ~-~

departments

Accessories

Invitation to Style

Casual sophistication and sex appeal characterize men’s accessories this season.

Dear Friends ...

The Levy’s Guide Your hunt for the “next big thing” ... How to dress a living legend … A café for those in the know ... The world’s best jeans … and more!

Essentials for Women Hang loose with a flowing scarf, chunky jewelry and funky leather goods.

Essentials for Men Spice up your summer wardrobe with bold shirts and ties.

Sportswear Just kicking around? There’s no need to sacrifice style.

THE LEVY’S INTERVIEW:

Ermenegildo Zegna A full century into its history, Ermenegildo Zegna remains a leader in luxury clothing. Meet the man behind the brand.

S P O T L I G H T:

A Suit With Authority Be it understated or bold, your suit should help you stand out from the sartorial crowd.

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LEVY’S 3900 HILLSBORO ROAD, SUITE 36 NASHVILLE, TN 37215 615.383.2800

w w w. l e v y s c l o t h e s . c o m

Store Hours MONDAY TO SATURDAY: 10 THURSDAY: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

a.m. to 6 p.m.

Editorial Director DAVID LEVY

DEAR

FRIEND,

Editor & Publisher MARK DOWDEN Creative Director AMY A. DOWDEN

It wouldn’t be spring without the

Art Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO

latest edition of LEVY’S magazine.

Contributing Editors JENNIFER CENICOLA, TIMOTHY KELLEY, IAN KEOWN, MARIA

This season, we have much

LISSANDRELLO, FRANCESCA MOISIN,

excitement to share! As new mer-

PAUL ROGERS

chandise arrives and changes

Contributing Photographer

abound, we are thrilled to provide

DANIEL SPRINGSTON

Nashville with the best the fash-

Art Associate LAURA CARAMAGNA

ion world has to offer.

Corporate Editorial Director RITA GUARNA

Levy’s continues to be at the forefront of new fashion. This season we have added Nudie and PRPS in

National Advertising Manager SHAE MARCUS

our sportswear department for all our denim aficionados, and we also are introducing new European and American lines in our women’s department. Chacok, Twin Set, Nation Ltd. and Cecelia Prado are just a few of the

Advertising Account Executive STEPHANIE STAIANO

Production Manager CHRISTINE HAMEL

designers we are raving about this spring. Sneak

PEEKS

LEVY’S magazine is now produced by Wainscot Media, a leading publisher of luxury and special-interest regional magazines. We have partnered with the best publisher in our industry and are proud to present you with information about lifestyle and fashion that you have come to expect. We love the culture of Music City Nashville and the surrounding area.

Advertising Services Manager THOMAS RAGUSA

Senior Art Director, Agency Services KIJOO KIM

Accounting AGNES ALVES, MAGDALENA SZARGUT

The people, music, sports, restaurants and arts all contribute to our wonderful sense of community. Whether attending one of the state’s many sport-

Published by

Oh, Kay!

ing events, cheering the riders at the Iroquois Steeplechase or playing a

Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN

see page 38

round of golf, you’re bound to run into someone you know—maybe even

President MARK DOWDEN

someone famous. This same community-mindedness is even written into

Executive Vice President JOEL EHRLICH

our core value statement.

Senior Vice President EDWARD BURNS

When you support local business, it creates a huge impact on our com-

Spring delights

see page 52

Vice Presidents AMY A. DOWDEN, NIGEL

munity. Choosing to shop at Levy’s instead of a national retailer or online

EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, SHANNON

store not only ensures our continued ability to serve you, but it also allows

STEITZ, SUZANNE TRON

for our contributions to your children’s schools, local charities and Nashville’s

Regional Sales Director

outstanding arts organizations. For five generations, proceeds from shopping

DOUGLAS C. BARKER

with Levy’s have stayed in the community. Each year Levy’s generously

Director of Marketing

donates to various organizations that make lasting impacts on Nashville and

CHRISTOPHER KAEFER

its surrounding areas.

Circulation Director LAUREN MENA

This fall, Levy’s will celebrate our 155th year in business. As owners and fifth-generation descendants of founder Zadoc Levy, we are proud to be recognized as one of the top specialty stores in the country, and we owe our success to you. Your loyal patronage allows us to continue our Nashville legacy. For that and more, we thank you.

LEVY’S Magazine is published by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Levy’s. Copyright © 2009 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, LEVY’S, 110 Summit Avenue,

Please enjoy this issue of LEVY’S magazine—and please enjoy our special offers on page 30! We look forward to seeing you this spring.

Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions.

—DAVID AND ELLEN LEVY

Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, LEVY’S, Circulation Department, PO Box 1788, Land O Lakes, FL 34639; telephone 813-996-6579; email lauren.mena@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

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D A L L A S | C A R M E L | T H E LO D G E AT P E B B L E B E A C H ™ W W W. RO B E RT TA L B OT T. C O M

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{ the

levy’s guide } Undaunted

COLOR Best known for its wild paisleys and adventurous palette, Italian design powerhouse Etro is not for the fashion meek. Brother-andsister design team Kean and Veronica Etro have cooked up especially eye-catching looks for the coming season. For men, as showcased here and on our cover, Etro serves up tropical delights with floral prints, jungle-inspired hues and a range of jaunty ties and socks.

Personality

on parade

The bombshell. The eccentric. The sophisticate. Each gets her style due in Simone Werle’s Fashionista: A Century of Style Icons (new from Prestel). From Audrey Hepburn’s simple elegance to Brigitte Bardot’s pinup glamour to Bjork’s flights of fancy, this sumptuous tome profiles 50 stars whose style has influenced how women dress today. A true celebration of fashion, the book is filled with memorable photos that just might inspire you to set a trend or two of your own.

Fashion Forward in NASHVILLE Flattering designs, exquisite materials and superb workmanship are always in style. That’s why Levy’s carries both classic and contemporary apparel from the world’s leading brands. Our store presents the best of familiar, marquee names like Canali and Ermenegildo Zegna for men and Hugo Boss and Armani Collezioni for women and men alike, to name just a few. But we’re also dedicated to bringing you new and exciting fashion statements from just ahead of the curve. So we seek out lesser-known, offbeat, sexy and cool brands that aren’t household names—like Gerard Darel, Nudie jeans, and Rodika Zanian. The next time you’re in our store looking for your favorite designer, explore what’s new. You may discover the next big thing in fashion. SPRING

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Esky says, ‘Shop at Levy’s’ Esquire magazine has been advising men on how to look great for 75 years, and for more than twice as long—154 years and counting!—Levy’s has been doing the very same thing. In recent years, Esquire has rounded out its clothing counsel with The Gold Standard, a short list of men’s stores that, in the words of the magazine, “continuously raise the bar of what it means to be the best in the busi-

Let’s keep it clean

ness.” Levy’s is one of only

Someday all dry cleaners may be able to call themselves green. But for now, Nashville’s only licensed GreenEarth dry cleaner is Oakwood Cleaners. Owners Surendra and Carolyn Kumar ditched the conventional, carbon-based dry-cleaning fluid, perchloroethylene (or “perc”), in favor of a nontoxic, silicon-based solvent—the same as found in many personal care products such as shampoo. The results have been brilliant—quite literally: The GreenEarth cleaning process leaves colors looking brighter and whites looking whiter than garments cleaned with “perc.” Plus, clothes come back to you with a softer feel and with no lingering odor. “Many Levy’s clients have had excellent results with Oakwood Cleaners,” says David Levy. Oakwood, Nashville’s only five-star couture dry cleaners, is a member of Leading Cleaners International and has two locations: 73 White Bridge Road (Paddock Place Shopping Center) and 4833 Lebanon Pike in Hermitage, in addition to an excellent pickup and delivery service. To contact Oakwood Cleaners, call 885-1281 or 3947240, or visit www.oakwoodcleaners.com.

35 stores in the country to receive this accolade. Come see for yourself just why we’ve been recognized again and again as one of the nation’s top retail destinations.

How to dress a living legend The man who has been called “the greatest living country singer” doesn’t typically don black tie. But when the legendary George Jones was invited to receive a Kennedy Center honor last year, he and his wife Nancy, pictured below, turned to Levy’s for their wardrobe. As he contemplated the approaching ceremony, George remarked, “I can’t believe that I have been included in the same company as previous winners that are country music legends—Dolly Parton, Johnny Cash, Loretta Lynn, Roy Acuff and Willie Nelson. Since I was a young man, I have just done what I love and that is sing country music, and I never dreamed that something this special would happen to me.” Pictured at a White House function is George in Hart Schaffner Marx. For the Kennedy Center gala, he chose an Armani Collezioni custom tuxedo. George Jones will perform at the Ryman Auditorium June 14.

What Mom really wants We suggest you stop short of the tattoo and simply present yourself as a nicely wrapped Mother’s Day gift. That means wrapping yourself in beautiful clothing, the better to honor the one who brought you into this world. Dinner, flowers, trinkets—all are nice as added gifts, but what Mom really appreciates is to be surrounded by those who love her. And dare we say, the same holds true for Father’s Day. 10

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{ the

levy’s guide} A brush with Sage The National Football League has a history of producing snappy-dressing quarterbacks. Joe Namath took it to extremes (remember the fur coat and stockings?), while Tom Brady sticks to the straight and narrow with Ermenegildo Zegna. But only newly signed Minnesota Vikings quarterback Sage Rosenfels can say that fashion is truly in his blood: Sage is David Levy’s cousin and a descendant of the first four generations of Levys associated with the store. In the photo above, the two big men appear to have reversed roles: David resembles a football coach on the sidelines (he’s hiding his Tennessee Titans jersey), while Sage, looking dapper in a pinstriped suit, would seem to be impersonating David. The woman in the center is Sage’s sister and David’s cousin, Jaia Rosenfels. And could there be another generation of Levy relatives destined to play professional sports? Sage named his oldest child Peyton after Colts quarterback Peyton Manning. That’s young Peyton being dangled by dad in the photo at right.

A café for those in the know

THE A-to-Z LIST Levy’s features more than 90 designer brands under one roof. See if you don’t find your favorites in our list below. Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love. Abaco

Elana Kattan

Mimi & Coco

Agave

Elizabeth Gillett

M. Musina

Allen Edmonds

Ermenegildo Zegna

Mountain Khakis

Andrew Hamilton Crawford

Etro

Nancy Mitchell

Fahrenheit

Nation Ltd.

Fortune Denim

The North Face

Frye

Nudie

The Art of Shaving

George Roth LA

Peter Huber

Audrey Talbott

Gerard Darel

PRPS

Autumn Cashmere

Gitman

Robert Graham

Gravati

Robert Talbott

Gucci

Rodika Zanian

Hart Schaffner Marx

Salvatore Ferragamo

Botkier

Hickey Freeman

Schneiders of Salzburg

Canali

Hugo Boss

Scott Barber

Carrot & Gibbs

Ike Behar

Scott Kay

Italo Ferretti

7 Diamonds

Jack Black

Simon Sebbag

Christopher Blue

Jack Victor

Spanx

Cole Haan

Jessica Kagan Cushman

St. Croix

Custom Shirtmakers Ltd.

John Allan’s

Stefano Corsini

David Aubrey

John Varvatos

Strenesse

David Donahue

Johnny Was

Tommy Bahama

Deborah Gaspar

Leather Island

Torino

Donald J. Pliner

Leather Rock

Trafalgar

Donna Degnan

Love Quotes

Vic Mayhem

Luciano Barbera

Whiting and Davis

Mark Nason

Yummie Tummies

Martine Sitbon

Zanella

Melissa Joy Manning

Zina Kao

Armani Collezioni Arlon Arnold Zimberg

Bill Lavin Bill’s Khakis Billy Jealousy

CG Chevron Royale

Rodika Zanian

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Macke’s restaurant at Grace’s Plaza in Green Hills is a bit tucked away, which may be one reason—along with the charming atmosphere and attentive service—for its reputation as Nashville’s most romantic dining spot. But the big draw is the food. Lunch and dinner regulars, including the Levys, recommend the salads, crab cakes, steaks and dessert soufflés. Another great reason to seek out Macke’s (pronounced MACK-eez), says Ellen Levy, is the cooking class: “It’s fun and social [helped along by a featured wine and featured drink]. You learn a lot about cooking and eat great food, and a portion of the proceeds benefits breast cancer research or another charity.” Find out more by calling Macke’s at 615-292-3838 or visiting www.mackesgreenhills.com.

Scott Kay

SUMMER 2009

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EVENTS and CELEBRATIONS For more than a century and a half, Levy’s has brought the best in men’s and women’s clothing to Nashville’s discerning dressers. We’re “committed to you and your image,” but from time to time we also pause to party for a worthy cause, a special day, an industry event or simply a set of fond friends. From recent memorable moments, we commit these two pages to those images.

From top, left to right: Jason Saucedo, Robin Rose, designer Arnold Zimberg, Ellen Levy and David Levy at the Las Vegas Show in February; finalists Randy Houston, Cordia Harrington and David Levy at the Better Business Bureau 2008 “Ambassador of the Year” event, October 30; Chris Rodriguez, Betsy Cook McHugh and Chris McHugh at the “BestDressed Man of Nashville” event honoring record producer Mark Bright, September 25; Levy’s staffers Adrienne Scarbrough, Susan Davis, Robin Rose, Jake Davis, Susie Parsons and Ellen Levy at “Best-Dressed Man.” At the same event, Mark Bright and Marc Beeson; David Levy and Mark Bright.

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From top, left to right: Billy Eskind, Martin Hansberry and Robin Rose at the Gordon Jewish Community Center Patrons’ Party, October 16; at the same festivity, Allan Goldberg and Chris Horsnell; David Levy and Art Demmas at a Men’s Night Out event, December 16; Jeff Shafer, Barbara Davis and John Jackson at the JCC party; Barbara Davis, Susan Davis and Leslie Freedman at the Women’s Champagne Brunch, December 12; Daniel Meng and Ellen Levy at Men’s Night Out; Ellen Levy, Susan Davis, David Levy, Barbara Davis, designer Deborah Gaspar and Nancy Jacobs at the JCC event; Kim Thomason and Robin Rose at the Women’s Champagne Brunch; Dan Laufman, David Levy and Clay Parkes at Men’s Night Out; Vance Stewart and Tiffany Kay at the JCC party.

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{ the

levy’s guide} Why not wear...

THE WORLD’S BEST JEANS? Agave’s Jeff Shafer explains Wrangler, Lee—but Europe and Japan had become the denim innovators. I founded Agave to take back the heritage. You were harking back to the foundations of denim? I suppose so. Denim had become pasteurized. I was seeking authenticity in the quality of fabric and the details of construction. How ambitious was your goal? No brand was setting out to make the finest denim at the time. Their positioning was the coolest, the sexiest, the tightest, the skinniest, the best pocket—but not the highest quality. So there was a clear opening. But certainly there were hurdles. Seven years ago, the term “premium denim” didn’t exist. In the U.S., there was no access to the finest fabric and laundries. How do you define “finest fabric” when it comes to denim? It starts with the finest natural fiber. Almost all of our cloth is made with Supima cotton, which is a branded strain of extra-long staple cotton, or ELS. Ninety-five percent of Supima is grown in California. Our cotton is spun into yarn in the USA. From there we send most of the yarn to Japan to be made into cloth. Why Japan? The Japanese have been indigo dyeing for hundreds of years. It’s a deep tradition, and there are still family-run, artisanal manufacturers that are excited to make 500 yards of premium denim for a designer. That’s in contrast to the huge mills in China,

Jeff Shafer set out to create the finest jeans available, jeans of such

India and South America, which turn out

high quality they could hang with the top European sartorial brands at

literally millions of yards of denim.

the finest specialty stores. His Agave brand is just that, as countless

What happens to the cloth once it’s

customers of Levy’s, leading actors and musicians, and denim connois-

spun in Japan?

seurs far and wide will attest. LEVY’S magazine sat down with Shafer

It comes back to California, where the cotton

(pictured above), a self-described “mad-scientist, product-driven, tech-

was grown. The fabric is cut, sewn and hand-

nology-focused designer,” to learn what makes Agave the best.

finished in our workshops in Los Angeles.

Jeff, you started Agave seven years ago. What was

In what ways are Agave jeans better

your inspiration?

constructed than other jeans?

I’ve loved jeans since I was a kid. As I built my career in the apparel

I’ll tell you just a few of the details. Our

industry and saw denim grow as a category, it bothered me that the best

jeans have “busted-out” seams, also

jeans in the world weren’t made in the U.S. We had the heritage—Levi’s,

known as French seams. This means

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Denim for Agave jeans is woven in Japan from American yarns. The photos show one of the Japanese factories that custom weaves small batches of cloth for the label. At far right, ring-spun denim is being produced on a vintage loom.

in Japan on vintage American

the edges of the fabric are fully fin-

shuttle looms. We use plant

ished and will not fray. We add fus-

indigo rather than synthetic

ing to the belt loops to give

indigo to dye the fabric,

them added

and the design is very

strength

authentic, reminiscent

and keep

of original 19th century

them from

Levi’s down to details

fraying. There

like a concealed rivet. These

are hidden bar tacks, which are

are jeans for the true aficionado.

very difficult to stitch

The guy who buys them will never want to wash them (the

because of their thickness,

indigo would run and

on the hips and crotch. Those

the jeans would fade),

are the points where a jean

but instead will opt for

is at risk of ripping. We use a

occasional dry-cleaning.

5.2-ounce pocket bag, with extra

Agave jeans are the best

fabric at the pocket bottom. Describe the hand-finishing

made. Are they therefore

process.

the most expensive as well?

The jean is put on a leg manne-

Not by a long shot. The price

quin, and highlight points are hand-

is comparable to what one would

sanded. We also grind the pocket

pay for a designer jean in a depart-

edge and bottom hem. The result is a subtle distressed look. Tell us about fit. Are Agave jeans designed to look good or feel good? Both! We design our jeans with

Cut and sewn in California work-

ment store. Given Agave’s intrinsic

rooms, the Agave line includes

quality—the best available—they

jeans (shown above with a Bill Lavin

may also qualify as the best value

“Nashville” belt) as well as new t-shirts

on the market.

with vintage appeal. At right, pocket

Jeff, Agave jeans are personal

stitching evokes the agave plant.

favorites of some well-known guys who can wear anything

guys age 25 to 45 in mind. Knowing some guys have a belly to deal

What other Agave tailoring

they want—Will Smith, Mark

with, we make our jeans to sit on

refinements do guys like?

Wahlberg, Samuel L. Jackson

the waist, below the gut in front

There is a second belt loop in back,

and David Duchovny, to name

and higher in back, so there is no

so the belt won’t ride up. And the

risk of “plumber’s butt.” We took

two center belt loops are angled

Agave offers many different

makes you proudest?

the typical fit from droopy and

like an “A” frame, so you won’t

models, with variations in fabric

Recently I was told by the owners

baggy to more fitted—without be-

miss them when threading the belt.

weight, cut, color and so forth.

of a specialty store in California that

ing tight. Women really appreciate

We’ve increased the size of the

What’s your latest introduction?

the top executives at Apple Com-

this cut. They think Agave is sexy

coin pocket so that it will hold a

The Agave “Gold” line, which is a

puter wear Agave. To me, that’s the

on guys.

cell phone.

raw selvage jean. The cloth is spun

coolest endorsement of all.

a few. What famous wearer

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{ essentials for women }

Fringe benefits Hang loose with a flowing scarf, chunky jewelry and funky leather goods

Pink multi-stripe silk scarf by Gerard Darel, talisman necklace Stefania Carrera’s brown leather saddle buckle belt, camel leather “Hannah” shoulder bag by Abaco CONTINUED

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PH O TO GR AP HY BY DAN I E L S P RI N GST O N

by Fahrenheit,

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4)-% (/./2%$ !-%2)#!. #,!33)#3 7)4( ! $!3( /& ',/"!, &,!)2 $)3#/6%2 7%34 %.$`3 .%7%34 %!4%29

Discover the 1808 Grille, a brilliant new Nashville restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;ideal for corporate lunches, private dining, romantic dinners or relaxed evenings outâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;in the heart of one of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most colorful neighborhoods. Treat yourself to some of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best cuisine, served in a sophisticated yet unpretentious atmosphere. Centrally located in West End / Midtown, 1808 Grille has emerged as one of the best Nashville restaurants. Sophisticated, stylish and fun, we offer you amazing cuisine and wine choices. Book your reservations online today at 1808grille.com.

WEST END AVENUE NASHVILLE TN GRILLE COM

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{ essentials for women }

Top to bottom: viscose oblong watercolor scarf by Rodika Zanian, Gerard Darel’s fuchsia leather wristlet, heart paisley silk “Bali” scarf by Elizabeth Gillett, assorted resin bangle bracelets by Jessica Kagan Cushman

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{ accessories }

Smart set

Casual sophistication and sex appeal characterize men’s accessories this season

Top to bottom: lavender paisley silk pocket square by Mark Pendleton; green apple silk pocket square; Tateossian cufflinks in zirconium blue, deep purple and “sushi” 22

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{ essentials for men }

Color counts

Spice up your summer wardrobe with bold shirts and ties

At left, a pink and white stripe cotton dress shirt by Ike Behar is paired with an iridescent multicolor tie by Robert Talbott Best of Class. At right, a green, sky and white stripe dress shirt by Robert Talbott Carmel is accented by Robert Talbottâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s green and turquoise seven-fold tie. 24

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{ sportswear }

Dressed down For her, top to bottom: smokey topaz drop cameo necklace with turquoise accent by Patrice,

Just kicking around? There’s no need to sacrifice style

“Karen” burnout tee by Nation Ltd., Boxer chain belt with celery leather accent by Abaco, Armani Collezioni grey stingraytextured leather tote, Shanghai Star mid-rise flare jeans by Fortune Denim CONTINUED

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{ sportswear }

For him, top to bottom: grey graphic tees by PRPS, Wigens engineer stripe cap, Baracuda jeans by PRPS, black-and-white houndstooth belt by Bill Lavin/Leather Island, EMS of Mason’s skinny cotton stretch plaid pant 28

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SPECIAL

OFFER

ON MEN’S AND WOMEN’S CLOTHING, SPORTSWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

100

This gift certificate entitles you to $100 on your purchase of $500 from our stock.

GIFT CER TIFICATE VALID THROUGH JUNE 20, 2009

Must present this certificate to receive credit. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offers. Not applicable to previous purchases, sale merchandise, Scott Kay jewelry, shoes, or special orders.

150

3900 Hillsboro Road • 615-383-2800

This gift certificate entitles you to $150 on your purchase of $750 from our stock.

GIFT CER TIFICATE VALID THROUGH JUNE 20, 2009

300

3900 Hillsboro Road • 615-383-2800

This gift certificate entitles you to $300 on your purchase of $1200 from our stock.

GIFT CER TIFICATE VALID THROUGH JUNE 20, 2009

LEV.coupons.v3.sv.indd 52

3900 Hillsboro Road • 615-383-2800

4/16/09 5:07:17 PM

Hand Crafted in California.

agavednmsmth agave right.indd 145

4/15/09 1:12:21 PM

{ the levy’s interview } What clothes do you pack for travel?

GILDO

ZEGNA

I am very practical and I pack light. Our Traveler collection, created for the man on the go, is probably the collection I personally influenced the most—every pocket on every jacket is where I would like it to be. This season we launched the Cool Effect blazer, which offers protection against the heat produced by natural sunlight, by reflecting the sun’s rays. The classic high-performance woollen fabric is given an exclusive wash treatment. This enables the surface of dark fabrics to replicate the properties of white fabrics, reflecting 80% of direct sunlight where they would normally only reflect 20%. Also, my Elements jacket is with me all the time. In the future, what do you imagine the

BY FRANCESCA MOISIN

Zegna suit will look like and be made of?

No matter how much innovation we bring to the table, I strongly believe that natural fibers will always be the main source of material used in our clothing. Superfine wool is in our DNA. The look will slowly evolve, and we will be there to lead that evolution. How do you control the quality of the fibers used in your clothes?

We have a long history when it comes AS LEVY’S APPROACHES its 155th anniversary,

Zegna is a global leader in men’s

one of our mainstay brands, Ermenegildo

luxury clothing. The current

Zegna, is preparing to celebrate its 100th: It was

Ermenegildo Zegna, known as

in 1910 that young Ermenegildo Zegna founded

Gildo, recently sat down with

a textile company in his hometown of Trivero,

LEVY’S to discuss his role as

Italy. He aimed to create the highest-quality fab-

fourth-generation leader of the

rics from the world’s best raw materials. Today,

brand that bears his name.

to selecting the best raw materials, and over the years we’ve developed close relationships with growers. We also participate in governmentsubsidized awards for the best growers; we give the annual Trofeo awards to the best growers, and in exchange we get their best prod-

Was it inevitable that you would join the

ment, I enjoy the small town

family business?

and Lake Lugano, and on

I was never forced to join, but I did grow

weekends, the mountains

up with it. I have a vivid memory of my

of St. Moritz.

was very natural that I joined the company.

standards are always maintained. How would you describe your

grandfather showing us around our mill in Trivero. It may not have been a given, but it

ucts. And we have expert technicians who make sure our superior

You say you travel

personal style of dress?

a lot. How much?

I am classic, but I like to have

I travel practically half of the

some fun with accessories. I

Where do you live?

time, but I love it. We are a global

In Lugano, a quiet city in the Italian part of

company, and there is no better way

TRADITIONAL TAILORING MEETS

Switzerland. I work in Milan and travel a lot

of understanding what is going on than

MODERN STYLE IN ERMENEGILDO

around the world. So when I have a quiet mo-

being there.

ZEGNA’S SARTORIA LINE.

SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

4/15/09 4:29:10 PM

www.farinaz.com

farinaz right.indd 145

customerservice@farinaz.net

206.244.0500

4/15/09 1:12:43 PM

{ the levy’s interview } RIGHT, SELECTIONS FROM ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA’S MILANO LINE; FAR RIGHT, THE ZEGNA OASIS IN THE BIELLESE ALPS; BELOW, THE COOL EFFECT BLAZER FROM THE SARTORIA COLLECTION; BOTTOM RIGHT, ZEGNA JACQUARD STRIPED TIES, LEATHER BELT WITH PALLADIUM BUCKLE

cultural, social and

from our Montenapoleone

scientific initia-

27 line.

tives around the

books. When

and summer?

world. It was

I’m on a

I suggest our Upper

established in

plane or on

Casual line, which is

2000 is presided

vacation I

the sophisticated and

business?

over by my

have time

chic expression of

She is not directly

sister Anna.

to catch up

Ermenegildo Zegna

on my read-

leisure wear. This season

business, but

What’s the

ing without

the wardrobe essentials

having been

best part

interruption,

are lightweight, decon-

by my side for

about what you

over 25 years,

Is your wife, Elena, involved in the family

I read a lot, so I like to bring

involved in the

so I try to take

structed blazers in cotton

do?

advantage of

or a cashmere-silk blend

The best part is

those moments.

offered in a soft color pal-

bigger role than you

also my biggest

ette of greys and beiges. What music are

responsibility: I run a company that has my

you listening to

If you weren’t CEO

You have been called

name on the door.

these days?

of Ermenegildo Zegna,

an environmentalist.

I’m responsible for

I like music as a

what would you

How so?

the more than 7,000

background sound,

be doing?

My ancestors were

people working for us.

environmentally conscious

This is both challenging

to classical and lounge

dreams. This is who I am

long before it was fashion-

and very rewarding.

music.

and what I do, and I’m

so I listen mostly

they planted half a million

What are some of your

What’s your

trees on the hills behind

favorite places in the

favorite film?

the factory. This was the

world, and why do you

La Dolce Vita, the

seed that eventually led

like them?

quintessential portrait

us to establish the Oasi

I love skiing and playing

of Italy.

Zegna [Zegna Oasis],

golf, so I visit the Alps in

a conservation area in

the winter and go to my

How would you

the Biellese Alps that

country house on the lake

describe your

covers about 100 square

in the summer. I also love

customer—the

kilometers. It incorporates

big cities, and New York

“Zegna man”?

the Bielmonte Ski Resort,

holds a special place in

There is not one

my heart. It has a unique

ideal man, but

without damaging the

energy, and I feel at home

common threads

natural environment.

whenever I’m there.

are confidence,

which was constructed

personality, suc-

Today we also have the

SPRING

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I don’t have any unfulfilled

very happy in my shoes.

able. In the early 1920s

men wear this spring

she plays a much might imagine!

What should American

particularly like knit ties

Fondazione Zegna, which

What can’t you leave

cess and a great

promotes environmental,

home without?

sense of style.

SUMMER 2009

4/15/09 4:29:39 PM

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023_LEVY_SPRING09.indd 23

4/15/09 2:24:55 PM

{ spotlight }

A suit with authority

LEV.spotlight.v2.sv.indd 36

PH O TO GR AP HY BY DAN I EL S PR I NG ST O N

Whatever the season, the suit you wear should exude authority. Whether you stand out boldly or quietly is a matter of personal choice, and it depends on your selection of make, cut, color, pattern and, of course, shirt, tie and accessories. If, for example, you have saltand-pepper hair like the model shown here, then a light grey stripe (this one is by Canali) proves an especially natty warm-weather choice, all the more so when paired with a pink striped shirt and pink tie. This high-amperage summer look conveys stature, elegance and an up-to-date sense of style. Levyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s will help you put together an individualized look that matches your tasteâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and projects the power level of your choosing.

4/16/09 5:08:03 PM

BMW of Nashville

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037_LEVY_SPRING09.indd 37

4/17/09 9:27:11 AM

{ the tour }

SCOTT KAY |

BY MARK DOWDEN

Maestro of Metal

TEANECK, NEW JERSEY, is an artistically happening place in a quiet kind of

changing the way guys think about jewelry—from an afterthought acces-

way. When you drive down its tree-lined streets, passing—for real—the

sory to a wardrobe must-have they want to wear and collect.”

former homes of Pat Boone and Ozzie and Harriet Nelson, you may for-

Recently David and Ellen Levy and I were treated to a tour of Scott

get that the Isley Brothers once made Teaneck their base, issuing hits

Kay’s “secret” Teaneck workshop by Scott himself. I say secret because

on their own label, the eponymous T-Neck Records. Ben E. King of The

hardly anyone in Teaneck knows the workshop is there. But inside a low-

Drifters lives in Teaneck even now. And Notorious B.I.G.? He too moved

key brick building, a staff of about 130 is taking designs from Scott’s

to this bedroom community of New York City after he made it.

imaginative conception all the way to finished product. “Every piece is

Another Teaneck secret is Scott Kay, the man who revolutionized the world of jewelry. Scott single-handedly rescued platinum from obscurity

one of a kind,” boasts Scott, “because every process is done by hand— nothing by machine.”

in the 1980s (its use in jewelry had been deep-sixed by the government

And he means nothing. Even computer-aided design has no role

in WWII) and built the world’s leading brand of bridal jewelry. Branching

here. Each design is rendered in freehand (see top right) in pen and ink.

more recently into men’s, Scott is creating utterly unique pieces that are

Once it’s approved by Scott, the drawing is interpreted by a sculptor.

substantial, intricate, organic in design and very masculine. The jewelry

High-relief pieces are sculpted in wax (bottom right). Some low-relief

ranges from cufflinks—Scott calls his wide-ranging collection the world’s largest—to bracelets, rings, necklaces and pendants. Levy’s introduced the Scott Kay men’s collection to Nashville, and

Scott Kay hangs with a fan, Eva Longoria (above left). They’re both wearing his jewelry. Each Scott Kay piece begins with a freehand drawing (top

customers have been loving it. Says David Levy, “The look is distinc-

right), which is then interpreted by a sculptor. Bottom right, the design

tive, and the response has been off the chart. I can see these pieces are

for a cufflink is sculpted in wax.

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All Scott Kay jewelry is handmade, and looks it. Here and at top right, a men’s bracelet is intricately engraved using centuries-old techniques. Substantial sterling cufflinks (right) have hammered gold accents. A woven bracelet (below) will mold to the wearer’s wrist over time.

pieces are first carved in shell—seashell that is, the material that

more than $100,000,” he says, hefting an engraved bracelet

has been used to carve cameos since ancient times—and then

from his Guardian collection. “That would be crazy. In sterling,

cast in wax. The wax is then cast in metal.

it’s a very affordable piece, and the focus is on the artistry.”

Many of these casts are rejected by Scott. If the design is

David Levy tries on a massive double-link bracelet made

“too tight,” if the relief isn’t high enough, if links on a bracelet

of bronze. “Note that it’s heavy,” says Scott, “but it doesn’t

don’t lie flat enough—the design is modified and the prototype

feel heavy on the wrist because, by virtue of its curving de-

process begins anew.

sign, the weight is evenly distributed.”

Even once an approved piece is cast in metal, the handwork

Next he has David wear a silver bracelet of woven

is far from finished. The intricately detailed bracelets, for exam-

wire. “Over time,” says Scott, “this will mold like butter

ple, are cast smooth, and all of the embellishment is then pains-

to your wrist.”

takingly engraved by hand. And the level of detail is stagger-

What’s the common denominator of these pieces?

ing: The reverse side of bracelet and clasp are given as much

“I refuse to be pigeonholed. I enjoy mixing different pe-

attention as the exposed side, all for the delight of the wearer.

riods and cultures,” Scott insists. But there is a Scott Kay

The engravers work side by side at traditional long benches,

masculine. Some of the pieces are edgy—especially those

in common with a 16th century atelier than a modern factory.

depicting human skulls. But there’s an element of fun,

Of course, the lighting, ventilation, working conditions and morale

too, in many of these designs. Even the skulls are wearing

are a hell of a lot better than they were in the Renaissance, but the

wry expressions.

techniques being practiced haven’t changed since that era. The workshop also has the aura of a small family business. Engravers, polishers and casters talk enthusiastically about their artistry and the company. Scott, a fountain of energy for the entire three-hour tour and beyond, talks and jokes with everyone on staff. After the tour, he talks about the appeal of his products: “Jewelry

Scott is the kind of guy who wears dark jeans, cowboy boots, an untucked shirt with French cuffs and a blazer. All of his pieces go with this casual look (Scott refers to his cufflinks as “sport links”), but they’re also versatile enough to go way up the formality scale. As David avers, Scott Kay jewelry is being worn by Harley riders and neurosurgeons—and by some guys who are both.

is no longer about the intrinsic value of the metal, but about the art. You

Why has Scott Kay placed his line at the best specialty clothing stores

put on a piece and feel like a zillion bucks—not because of the metal

rather than at jewelry stores? He has an instant answer: “A jeweler will not

itself, but because of the way the jewelry looks.”

help you style a piece as part of a look. The jeweler is commodity-driven. But

Many of his pieces are crafted in sterling silver, often with precious stones or gold inlay. “If I made this piece out of platinum, it would cost 40

look. People describe it with words like cool, sophisticated,

each using hand tools and a 15x microscope. The scene has more

SPRING

•

the haberdasher, like the artisan, is driven by an overall sense of style.” That’s why guys from Teaneck and Nashville are making great music together.

SUMMER 2009

LEV.scottkay.v5.sv.indd 40

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029_LEVY_SPRING09.indd 29

4/15/09 1:09:15 PM

Rocket-like, wide and low to the ground, the fierce R8 from Audi may be the perfect coupe for ripping up your favorite ribbon of road.

SPRING

â&#x20AC;˘

LEV.auto..indd 40

SUMMER 2009

4/15/09 1:49:17 PM

AUDACITY

PAYS OFF Audi took a chance with the R8, a MID-ENGINE EXOTIC that goes head to head with revered sports cars and COMES OUT A WINNER |

LEV.auto..indd 41

BY MARIA LISSANDRELLO

4/15/09 1:49:32 PM

Looking more Italian than German, the Audi R8 shares its space frame with a cousin, the Lamborghini Gallardo. The power plant, below left, is always on view through a transparent cover (this photo shows the optional V10 engine).

IT TAKES NERVES OF STEEL to debut a six-figure sports car. One that

R8 doesn’t have to beg for attention; it earns it. And with few on

nobody’s waiting for. One that’s set to compete against the beloved

the road (consider that Porsche sells a thousand 911s every month,

45-year-old Porsche 911, the BMW M6 and the Aston Martin Van-

while Audi figures to sell 300 to 400 R8s in a whole year), it owns the

tage. Yet in its debut year, the audacious Audi R8 was crowned

mark of exclusivity. Treat yourself to this $114,000 coupe, and odds

a supercar—Automobile magazine named it 2008 Automobile of

are you’ll be the only one in your zip code zipping around in it.

the Year; it trounced the Ferrari F430 to take 2008 MSN Car of the

Why so few? This is no assembly-line baby. Its 5,000 bits and

Year and was hailed as World Performance Car of the Year at the

pieces are hand-assembled by 70 specialists; all that loving care

2008 World Car of the Year awards. And those are just a few of the

yields just 15 cars a day. And before any one of them gets the Audi

many accolades.

stamp of approval, it must undergo a unique test: Some 95 lasers

What makes this road car so outstanding? Its aggressive design, for one. Rocket-like and low to the ground, wider than average, with

inspect the car in 5 seconds, in a sort of CT scan that ensures the two-seater is to spec.

its engine (mounted behind the driver and ahead of the rear wheels)

That means guaranteeing the aluminum space frame it shares

visible through a transparent cover that lights up in the dark, the

with its pricier ($70K-plus pricier) cousin, the Lamborghini Gallardo, is perfect; its retractable rear spoiler retracts, its LED brake lights

M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O writes frequently about automobiles, food and

activate; its “shift-by-wire” technology is positioned to deliver ultra-

travel. She is also the librettist for opera composer Christof Bergman.

fast gear shifting and, well, you get the idea.

SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

4/15/09 1:49:48 PM

But it’s when you put this machine to the test—slipping into the

where you tell it; and when you’re ready to stop, it stops.

cocoon-like cockpit (sleek rotary controls set against a piano black

Ready for curves? Take them with confidence; after all, the R8

console curve around the driver), settling into your cushy Alcanta-

is programmed to detect driving situations in seconds and deliver the

ra/leather bucket seat, and even finding

appropriate damping forces. And while

some room to stretch your legs—that the

THE AUDI R8 AT A GLANCE

its all-wheel drive and unequal tire sizes

real fun begins.

BASE PRICE: $114,500

keep it solidly in contact with the sur-

STANDARD ENGINE:

face, you’ll still thrill to the energy, power

Find a deserted straightaway and see if you can’t beat the 0-60 mph-in-4.5seconds promise. Blast the R8 to its 187 mph max and enjoy the shock and awe of feeling totally in control—the electro-

| 4.2-LITER, V-8 | 420 HP @ 7,800 RPM | 317 LBS-FT TORQUE | 6-SPEED MANUAL/6-SPEED R-TRONIC SINGLE-CLUTCH SEMI-AUTOMATIC GAS MILEAGE: 13 MPG CITY / 20 MPG HWY STANDARD FEATURES:

| BOSCH ESP 8.0 ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAMME

and elasticity that make the R8 a stealth speedster. But what if you’re just tooling around town? Go for it. The R8 can be as sedate

magnetic springs and dampers guarantee

| BANG & OLUFSEN SOUND SYSTEM

as the A6, purring politely, slinking along

a smooth, stable ride, rounding off any

| ACOUSTIC PARKING SYSTEM WITH REAR-VIEW CAMERA

subtly—if that’s what you ask of it. This

harsh edges without making you feel as

| 19-INCH DIAMETER ALLOY WHEELS

dynamic coupe is nothing if not versatile,

if you’ve lost touch with the road; the

CLOSEST COMPETITORS: PORSCHE 911 CARRERA 4S, BMW M6,

an easygoing two-seater dying to be

steering is so precise the R8 goes only

ASTON MARTIN V8 VANTAGE

taken for a ride. SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

4/15/09 1:50:15 PM

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve entered your inner sanctum of personal style ...

and so to

BED THE PART OF YOUR DAY

spent unclothed (or wearing pajamas) may provide an excuse to look less than your best. But you at least deserve to lie down in a well-dressed crib. These perfectly tailored bedrooms will set you dreaming.

P H O T O G R A P H Y BY T I M S T R E E T- P O R T E R

FA L L

â&#x20AC;˘

WINTER 2008

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4/16/09 5:12:29 PM

This page: Antique paisley fabrics appear on the barley-twist bed, the Venetian gondola chair and everywhere else in this sunny, antique-filled bedroom by Martyn Lawrence-Bullard.

Opposite: Taking advantage of high ceilings, designer Miles Redd installed a towering, mirrored four-poster in his own master bedroom. In a witty turn, the silk upholstery on the headboard is button-tufted to look like mattress ticking.

SPRING

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â&#x20AC;˘

SUMMER 2009

4/16/09 5:12:45 PM

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This page: Designer Nate Berkus kept this masculine bedroom muted and dark. Looking like a giant club chair, the wingback headboard is upholstered in brown leather. Plantation shutters topped by panel curtains ensure an utter blackout at night.

Opposite: Antique textiles drape the bed and encase an ample supply of pillows in the bedroom of Fritz and Dana Rohn. The effect is to make the bed (with beckoning teapot) an intimate living space.

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As with clothing, a combination of strong patterns in like colors can have a pleasing effect. Designer Lynn von Kersting pulls out the stops in this sumptuous bed chamber, where the count of fabric patterns runs at least to 10.

SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

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051_LEVY_SPRING09.indd 145

4/16/09 6:00:15 PM

BOSS Black

HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600 www.hugoboss.com

Lightweight fabrics and saturated colors make these great new looks easy to wear

Lighten Up! |

SPRING

â&#x20AC;˘

P H O T O G RA P H Y BY DA N I E L S P R I N G S T O N

SUMMER 2009

LEV.fashion.v5.sv.indd 52

4/16/09 5:15:59 PM

On her HUGO BOSS “Jonas” jacket, shell sweater FORTUNE DENIM Beijing Belle jeans On him CG black jacket with pick-stitch detail ETRO cotton printed shirt NUDIE jeans

LEV.fashion.v5.sv.indd 53

4/16/09 5:16:17 PM

On her HUGO BOSS suit LUCIANO BARBERA Blouse On him ROBERT GRAHAM shirt NUDIE jeans

SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

LEV.fashion.v5.sv.indd 54

4/16/09 5:16:41 PM

GERARD DAREL jacket DONNA DEGNAN check skirt, cotton tank SIMON SEBBAG necklace

LEV.fashion.v5.sv.indd 55

4/16/09 5:17:20 PM

ARMANI COLLEZIONI suit and top NANCY MITCHELL necklace

LEV.fashion.v5.sv.indd 56

4/16/09 5:17:42 PM

On him ROBERT GRAHAM shirt NUDIE jeans SCOTT KAY bracelet On her MIMI & COCO ribbed cami and filter sleeve sweater FORTUNE DENIM Shanghai Star jeans

SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

4/16/09 5:18:05 PM

On him ARMANI COLLEZIONI sportcoat, cotton and linen sport shirt BILL LAVIN Soft Collection crocodile embossed belt ZANELLA pants On her LUCIANO BARBERA jacket and skirt FLUXUS t-shirt

SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

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ETRO sportcoat and printed cotton shirt NUDIE jeans SCOTT KAY bracelet

LEV.fashion.v5.sv.indd 59

4/16/09 5:19:01 PM

A Rolling

Great food, single malts and bonhomie prove to be just the ticket aboard the most luxurious of touring trains

HIGHLAND |

LEV.scotsman.final.indd 86

BY I A N K E O W N

FLING

4/15/09 1:54:46 PM

ON MY FIRST NIGHT aboard The Royal Scotsman out of Edinburgh, I was

edging along its burnished, wood-paneled corridors when a soignée, tanned and slightly exotic lady stepped from her cabin and asked if I would be so kind as to help her open her window. Uh-huh. In situations like this the mind instantly downloads fictional hanky-panky (think Poirot, think 007) on the Orient-Express or the Trans-Siberian Express. But this being Inverness rather than Istanbul, it turned out that all the lady expected of me was a quick tug to part a pair of ventilation windows. Just as well. I was traveling with my wife and teenage daughter, showing off the beauty and history of my homeland and riding one of the world’s most sumptuous touring trains from Edinburgh through heathered glens and craggy peaks on the way to Dornoch in the north, Kyle of Lochalsh and Achnashellach in the west, through Whisky Country back to Edinburgh. For someone who grew up in Scotland, as I did, riding a train for four full days is somehow wacky: Hell, I could drive this route in a day-and-a-half. But then I’d have to cope with all that zooming traffic, seeing little but the truck in front, while our train, on the other hand, tootled along at a leisurely 50 mph, and I could stand on the open observation deck and watch the moors and lochs unfurl. For overseas visitors, of course, The Royal Scotsman is a godsend, eliminating the stress of driving on the left, of trying to remember who gets priority in roundabouts, of facing down flocks of sheep on one-lane byways. As one American passenger put

IMAGES COURTESY OF ORIENT EXPRESS

it: “When I saw the opportunity to tour Scotland by train, it seemed so convenient I leaped at the chance.” The Royal Scotsman has been around since 1990, but it was acquired in 2007 by Venice Simplon Orient-Express, which has pumped in additional funds for extra perks like bathrobes and slippers for guests, tailored uniforms for the staff of 16 and a connoisseur’s collection of

The Royal Scotsman glides along the shore of Loch Carron in the west Highlands (left), midway through its circuit. The journey begins on Platform 10 of Waverly Station in Edinburgh (above), where a piper in full regalia welcomes guests aboard the train. SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

4/15/09 1:54:59 PM

35 single malts in the bar. The train consists of nine carriages—five

ing sightseeing excursions aboard The Royal Scotsman’s own motor

State Cars (or sleeping cars), two for dining, an Observation Car and a

coach, sampling that rich tapestry of castles and gardens, monuments

crew car—eight of them meticulously refurbished with burled walnut

and mesmerizing landscapes; in the evening we socialized, giving the

and gleaming mahogany, marquetry panels and etched glass thistles.

four days the air of an exclusive Edwardian house party on wheels.

Twin cabins measure 85 square feet and resemble those on a luxury

Our fellow passengers (26 in all, 10 short of maximum capacity) were

yacht with their finely crafted woods and dusky red plaids; each is

predominantly American, including two families and two grandmothers

outfitted with twin beds, a desk and a small closet (empty suitcases

hosting their grandchildren on graduation trips. This particular departure

are stowed in the luggage car). Climate control—overhead ventilation

was a charter, organized by Manhattan-based Academic Arrangements

outlets, ceiling fans and a small ventilation panel—is adequate in most

Abroad on behalf of the Harvard Alumni Association, the National Trust

circumstances (this is, after all, Scotland, not the Mediterranean); but

for Historic Preservation and the Royal Oak Foundation (but open to

since we had four days of untypical temperatures in the high 70s,

everyone). “With alumni and people interested in preservation,” said

there were times when air conditioning would have been welcome,

one passenger, “they’re a very congenial group.”

hence the request to open the lady’s window.

Our rolling house party filled four days with majestic lived-in cas-

Two features distinguish The Royal Scotsman from most other

tles (Dunrobin, Cawdor and Glamis), an after-hours tour of Strathisla

touring trains: Every cabin comes with its own toilet—24 square feet

Distillery with a whisky tasting and ceilidh (the traditional Gaelic get-

of ingenious design with space for a shower and six fluffy towels; and

together), a seal-watching cruise at Plockton, a demonstration of

the train “stables” overnight so that it is stationary while the guests

falconry at the home of the Earl of Sutherland and a guided tour

sleep (“stable” meaning, in this case, pulling into a quiet siding beside

of the most dolorous spot in Scotland, the battlefield at Culloden.

a country station). It’s a perfect game plan. By day, we enjoyed reward-

Some guests managed to squeeze in impromptu side trips—an early

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The outer railway loop of the map (opposite) shows the complete itinerary for The Royal Scotsman’s four-day “Edwardian house party on wheels.” Each passenger cabin (top) cradles guests in the burled and burnished comfort of a bygone era. At left, Plop the barn owl buzzes spectators during a falconry demonstration at the Earl of Sutherland’s place, a sidetrip of the journey.

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PREVIEWS

Looking like the Hogwarts Express from a Harry Potter movie (opposite), The Royal Scotsman snakes through Highland scenery. At Glamis Castle (above), where the late Queen Mother spent her youth, the crypt evokes a slightly creepy men’s club, with its antelope heads and suits of armor. Another stop is Cawdor Castle (right), where 18 hours of sunshine per midsummer day make for lush gardens.

morning jog across the bridge to the Isle of Skye or a round of golf on a classic Scottish course. No matter how rewarding or how much fun we had during the tours, we were also delighted to return to our luxury cocoon for lunch or dinner. The Royal Scotsman’s two Dining Cars bring to life the luxury trains we’ve all seen in movies and documentaries—brocade fabrics and tie-back curtains, wall sconces casting a glow on tables set with Royal Worcester china and Dartington glassware. But what made lunch and dinner such special occasions was the high caliber of the cuisine, a treat none of us had expected on a train, especially since several times a day we had to pass the implausibly tiny galley. It measured, according to the chef, just “eight steps from wall to wall,” yet our two maestros, Iain Murray and Paul Middleton, performed miracles using local produce wherever possible—Buccleuch beef, organic salmon from Speyside and plump langoustines and scallops bought direct from the fishing boats when we stabled in Kyle of Lochalsh. In one unfortunate respect The Royal Scotsman belies its heritage—it’s not at all thrifty (see details at right). But my fellow passengers seemed to find the trip worthwhile because of its uniqueness: the time warp of a luxury rail excursion, the company of well-traveled companions, the refined cuisine and private estate service, the sheer convenience of seeing so much with so little effort. And you can’t sip and savor 35 single malts when you’re driving.

RESOURCES FOR PLANNING YOUR TRIP Excursions on The Royal Scotsman begin at $1,635 per day per person, including meals and sightseeing; one-day and two-day tours are also available.

I A N K E O W N , author of Caribbean Hideaways (Frommer) and other books,

www.royalscotsman.com, 800-524-2420

has been writing about luxury travel for more than 30 years.

www.arrangementsabroad.com, 800-221-1944 SPRING

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{ malt }

BY M A R K D O W D E N

Haiku in a bottle Yamazaki 18-year-old is a COMPLEX WHISKY from Japan that will WOW ANY SCOTCH LOVER Most details of the film Lost in Translation are lost

boutique owner given to bellowing at customers, “If

in my memory, obscured by the lovely Scarlett

it’s not Scottish, it’s crap!”

Johannson and her powerful chemistry with an

Not so. Japan makes world-class whisky,

aging Bill Murray. But I do remember why Murray’s

whose only fundamental difference from Scotch is

character, a burned-out actor, found himself in

that it is not distilled and aged in Scotland.

Tokyo: He was filming a whisky commercial in

The man who translated the distiller’s craft

which he intoned, “For relaxing times, make it

from Caledonia to Asia was Masataka Taketsuru. As

Suntory time.”

a chemistry student at the University of Glasgow in

The Japanese love whisky, and Suntory is the

1918, he became so fascinated by whisky that he

country’s leading producer. The beverage giant

roved from distillery to distillery, offering to serve

has been distilling malted barley for nearly

as an apprentice. Distillers were receptive, and

a century, although most Westerners

Taketsuru spent several happy years learning, imbibing and taking copious notes. In 1921 he returned

would be appalled at the very concept.

to Japan with a crammed notebook and a Scottish

I’m reminded of a line by another

wife. Soon Taketsuru crossed paths with Shinjiro

Saturday Night Live alumnus, Mike

Torii, founder of Suntory, and the two set out to

Myers, who played an irascible Scots

make the true usquebaugh.

CONTINUED...

p ap

•S

don’t know it and many Scotch drinkers

•

S E

Ya m

aza

ers have never heard of. Full-bodied and delicious,

Akita

J A PA N

ki D istille

Hiroshim

Yamazaki is the world-class whisky most Western-

TOKYO ry

• •O K y o t o

I C I F

N E A O C

it’s the 10th best-selling single malt on the planet, thanks to its popularity in Japan.

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Exquisite Dining

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Nestled in a forest, the distillery was located off the beaten path by founder Shinjiro Torii (right), who chose the site for its pure springs. The wort is still fermented in Douglas fir wash-backs (lower right). A photo from the 1920s shows the original staff. Today’s blenders (lower left) taste 200 to 300 samples of Yamazaki per day.

They followed the lead of Senno Rikyu, father of the Japanese

mizunara oak, grown, milled and made into butts by Suntory on the

tea ceremony, whose 16th century quest for the purest spring water

northern island of Hokkaido. Mizunara gives the whisky a subtle Asian

led him to Yamazaki, a pristine valley just southwest of Kyoto. The

spiciness that has been compared to incense.

valley marks the confluence of three rivers, the Katsura, Uji and Kizu,

Consider the permutations for aging Yamazaki in wood: three

whose varied temperatures create a near-constant layer of fog, not

kinds of oak, different sizes of cask, varying degrees of char applied to

unlike a Highland mist. Pure water and a cool, humid climate—not to

the interiors, the choice of new-fill versus second-fill. … It’s no wonder

mention the presence of an ancient Shinto shrine—made Yamazaki an

that in keeping tabs on the aging spirit and deciding which casks to

auspicious location for Suntory’s enterprise.

draw from in vatting Yamazaki single malt, the lucky resident blenders

The distillery, the first outside of Scotland to use copper pot stills,

taste 200 to 300 samples every day.

opened in 1923. According to lore, locals theorized that a ravenous

This kind of fanatical care has paid off handsomely. The two

monster lived in the building because great quantities of barley en-

expressions of Yamazaki available in the U.S., the 12-year-old and the

tered the “factory,” but no product ever came out. Not until six years

18-year-old, are both first-rate. Recently I tasted the 18-year-old, which

later, that is, when the first aged spirit was ready for market.

won, among other awards, double gold at the 2008 World Spirits Com-

Today Yamazaki, as both the distillery and its product are known, still follows the rigorous process of making malt whisky as taught by Scots masters, and then adds a few tweaks of its own. Most notably,

petition in San Francisco. Smooth and highly complex, this malt displays balanced fruit, spiciness and a just hint of smoke, with a long, dry finish. Many Japanese drink their whisky “mizuwari,” meaning mixed with

Yamazaki has upped the ante on barrel aging. Where many producers

water and ice in a highball glass. This dilute preparation goes well with

of Scotch whisky have sought novel expressions by aging the spirit in

sushi, but it would be a waste of Yamazaki. Try the 18-year-old with just a

two woods, Yamazaki has gone hogshead wild by using three kinds of

few drops of water, and see if it doesn’t stand up to the best of Scotland.

oak and a bewildering variety of casks. In common with Scotch, much Japanese whisky is aged in bourbon barrels, which by definition are made from charred American white oak. These barrels add dry flavors, vanilla and sometimes a hint of coconut to the whisky. In addition, like Scotch, Yamazaki is aged in Spanish oak butts. Some are ex-sherry casks and some are newly made by Suntory. Spanish oak imparts fruit flavors and sometimes a suggestion of chocolate and caramel. And then there is Japanese

TASTING NOTES YAMAZAKI 18-YEAR-OLD C O L O R | Bright copper-gold N O S E | Woody—an old cedar closet in summer, a mossy oak log. Anise, turpentine, chocolate-covered cherries, vanilla. PA L AT E | Thick and creamy. Mocha butter cream. Dry sherry, rum raisin ice cream, grapefruit. Orange juice, spice, honey-roasted nuts.

M A R K D O W D E N was educated at the University of St. Andrews,

F I N I S H | Cedar-like and dry. Mixed fruits, pepper and wood smoke.

where he learned about pot stills and pot bunkers.

PRICE | $100 to $120

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{ the sporting life }

B Y PA U L R O G E R S P H O T O G RA P H Y BY W O O D S A B O L D

OLD MACDONALD:

golf’s new challenge WHEN BANDON DUNES, a spectacular links on the southern coast of

Notwithstanding such relative austerity—or perhaps because of

Oregon, opened a decade ago, the course bore almost no relation to

it—Bandon Dunes Golf Resort proved a huge success, and deservedly

the manicured quality of American resort-style golf. Designed by a

so. Aficionados compared it favorably to Pebble Beach and the time-

Scotsman named David MacLay Kidd, the layout looked almost pri-

less links of the British Isles. Mike Keiser, the recycled greeting cards

mordial, with rumpled fairways that unfurled through gorse-covered

magnate who founded the resort, followed up with two more eigh-

dunes. Kidd made the playing corridors wide enough to accommodate

teens on the property: Pacific Dunes, an even more scenic seaside

the stiff winds off the ocean, but the concessions ended there. The

course created by Tom Doak and completed in 2001; and the inland

bunkers were deep (some of them forcing players to hit out sideways),

Bandon Trails, a Bill Coore/Ben Crenshaw design that debuted four

the turf unsparingly firm. To play the course you had to walk—there

years later. All three rank among the highest-regarded public courses

were caddies but no carts, a staple of high-end public golf across the

in the nation.

country. Even the accommodations at Bandon’s original lodge evoked rustic understatement.

Now comes yet another act. Keiser has rehired Doak and his design associate, Jim Urbina, to conceive a fourth course at Bandon, this one an homage to the golden-age course designer Charles Blair Macdonald.

It could just as well be Scotland: This view of Old Macdonald Hole #7 in Bandon,

The layout—featuring astoundingly broad fairways and massive, intri-

Oregon, shows the gorgeous seaside setting and rustic links architecture for

cately contoured greens—is called Old Macdonald. Ten holes have been

which this new “old” course will surely become famous.

finished, and preview rounds were slated to be available to the public

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beginning April 1; the entire course is to open in June 2010. Macdonald is considered the father of American “golf architec-

the piece of property was too interesting to reduce the assignment to that.”

ture” (in fact, he coined the term). Raised in Chicago by his Scottish

They’ve come up, for the most part, with their own takes on clas-

father and Canadian mother, he attended the University of St. Andrews

sic holes from the U.K. as Macdonald might have fashioned them in

in Scotland, where he learned the game on the storied Old Course.

Bandon, given the character of the land and the prevailing wind. The

He went on to help found the United States Golf Association, and to

par-five sixth, for example, has a Hell Bunker evocative of the fearsome

win the country’s first national amateur championship, in 1895. But

crater found on the fourteenth at St. Andrews. There’s also a Road

it’s Macdonald’s design work for which he is known. In a quest to

Hole inspired by St. Andrews’ famous seventeenth.

establish the game in America, he sought to build idealized versions

Another challenge was to design Old Macdonald in such a way that

of the world’s finest golf holes, most of them from British links. His

it would stand out from Bandon’s existing courses. The most obvious

most celebrated work includes the National Golf Links of America, in

departure is in the size of the putting surfaces. They’re considerably

Southampton, N.Y., Chicago Golf Club, Bermuda’s Mid Ocean Club and

larger than not only those of Bandon Dunes, Pacific Dunes and Bandon

the course at Yale University.

Trails but also, according to Doak, any modern-day course he’s seen in

In sketching out Old Macdonald, Doak and Urbina tried to place

some time. Also, there is less gorse in play, making it harder to lose a

themselves inside the architect’s head circa 1900, after he’d traveled

ball, and there are a couple of “unabashedly blind shots.” And although

and played extensively overseas. “We wanted the course to honor

the resort’s first three layouts promote the Scottish “bump-and-run”

Macdonald’s ideas, but we didn’t just want to build replicas of his fa-

game—in which shots are played strategically under the wind—Doak

mous holes,” says Doak. “That would have been boring to us, and

says Old Macdonald will encourage it even more. Some downwind holes have greens that slope from front to back, rendering an aerial

Now that’s a green: Above, it’s hard to tell where the fairway ends and the massive, contoured green begins on Old Macdonald Hole #14.

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approach far riskier than one that scuttles along the ground. Doak estimates that at most only one in five golfers who play Old

SUMMER 2009

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Old Macdonald, the

The new clubhouse at Pacific Dunes

course, is an homage to

shines like a beacon in the gloaming.

Charles Blair Macdonald, the father of American golf architecture.

Ken Nice, resort superintendent, and Jim Urbina, architect (with Tom Doak) of Old Macdonald, show the scale of misery in Hell Bunker on Old Macdonald Hole #6. This hole is dubbed “Long,” and a spell in Hell can make it feel even longer.

Macdonald will have heard of the man who inspired it. Most visitors to

Bandon, unlike with so many other American golf resorts, it is almost

Bandon Dunes come from the West Coast, and the majority of Macdon-

sacrilege to talk about the off-course amenities. A mantra of Keiser’s

ald’s courses are private clubs in the East. The resort plans to produce a

from the beginning still holds: It’s all about the golf.

booklet explaining the ideas behind each hole. George Bahto, a Macdonald biographer who is consulting on the course design, predicts the experience of playing Old Macdonald will pique golfers’ interest in course architecture. “A lot of them will like it and they won’t know why,” Bahto says. “They’re going to want to know what Macdonald was all about.” Just as the golf at Bandon Dunes has expanded in the ten years

BANDON DUNES GOLF RESORT 57744 Round Lake Drive, Bandon, Oregon. Contact: 888-345-6008, bandondunesgolf.com.

PLAYING B a n d o n D u n e s | Architect: David McLay Kidd, 1999. Yardage: 6,732. Par: 72. Slope: 143.

since the resort opened, so, too, have the accommodations. The shin-

B a n d o n Tr a i l s | Architects: Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw, 2005. Yardage: 6,765. Par: 71.

gled two-story lodge remains a popular option (singles during the peak

Slope: 132.

season, May through October, from $200; four-bedroom suites, from

P a c i f i c D u n e s | Architect: Tom Doak, 2001. Yardage: 6,633. Par: 71. Slope: 129.

$1,300), but guests can now also choose from four other options. The

Greens Fees on all three courses: $220 during peak season (May through October).

most lavish are cottages for foursomes at the Grove ($1,800): they

Replay rate: $110.

offer four bedrooms, each with a private bath, plus a parlor with a fire-

Coming Soon:

place, and a patio. There’s also a selection of restaurants and bars, not

O l d M a c d o n a l d | Architects: Tom Doak and Jim Urbina. Yardage, Par, Slope: TBD.

to mention a fitness center where after walking eighteen or thirty-six

Ten-hole preview rounds beginning April 1, 2009; entire course to open June 2010.

in the elements you can soak in a Jacuzzi or get a massage. But with GETTING THERE P A U L R O G E R S , a contributing editor at Travel + Leisure Golf, has written

Commercial flights are available from Portland, Ore., and San Francisco to Southwest Oregon

extensively about the game.

Regional Airport, 25 miles from Bandon. The resort is a five-hour drive from Portland.

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{ finishing touch }

Dos and don’ts for the well-dressed man Dos Do keep your suit jacket buttoned when standing or walking. Do make sure your socks are high enough to keep your shins covered when you cross your legs. No flashes of bare skin, please (unless you are sock-less). Do wear brown shoes (in calfskin, cordovan, alligator, peccary or even suede) with a grey or navy suit. Do, for a change, wear monk-strap shoes or low, formal boots with a suit. Do match the color of your belt and shoes. Do wear a pocket square with your suit or sportcoat, whether or not you’re wearing a tie. Do wear a printed shirt, either alone or with a sportcoat or suit, for an up-to-date, sporty look. Do wear colored or patterned socks with a suit (but watch out for pattern conflict). Do carry both a credit card case and money clip if necessary to avoid carrying an overstuffed, hold-everything wallet. Do wear a linen, cotton or silk pocket square with a tuxedo. Do have your hair trimmed subtly and often. Do wear a boldly patterned necktie with a dark suit.

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Don’t be afraid to wear a bold check dress shirt with a suit. Don’t wear a matched set of necktie and pocket square. A little variation in color or pattern is key. Don’t wear a short-sleeved shirt with a suit jacket or sportcoat. Don’t wear a button-down collar with a double-breasted jacket. Don’t wear penny loafers with a business suit. Don’t purchase clothes for an important event or trip without leaving adequate time to try them on. (But if you have no time, we can still make you look good!) Don’t remove your jacket when you’re wearing a necktie. Don’t wear the same cologne as everyone else. Distinguish yourself with a unique scent from Ermenegildo Zegna—or even Levy’s own. Don’t neglect your casual wardrobe and risk being mistaken for a hobo. Don’t rent a tuxedo. You should own one—or more—of your own. Don’t mix grosgrain and satin facings on your tuxedo and accessories. Stick to one style of silk. Don’t wear a black stud set with white tie and tails. Don’t wear black shoes with seersucker.

EV E RE TT DI G I TA L NY

Do wear a white dinner jacket to a summer black-tie affair.

Don’ts

Don’t wear clothes that you find uncomfortable.

SUMMER 2009

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