Raleigh: Fall/Winter 2016

raleigh Fall/Winter 2016

F all fas h io n s

off the charts

t h e art of c h ar c uterie s k ii n g t h e p yre n ees

set your own standards of style with the season’s best looks

p ower of p is c o

Cutting-edge charcuterie Skiing the pyrenees

mi c h ael c ai n e

the power of pisco

f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 16

YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO STYLE RAL.fw16.coverFIN.indd 1

michael caine: fashion icon

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TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 01 Chris Hemsworth works hard and chooses his roles carefully.

He handles pressure by taming it, and turning it to his advantage. #DontCrackUnderPressure was coined with him in mind.

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contents

features road warrior | 46 The Mercedes-AMG GT S has serious rock star presence that transcends its elegant design.

Sporting life | 56 You may not think Spain and skiing go together, but Baqueira-Beret in the Pyrenees will make you think again.

the art of charcuterie | 58 For enthusiasts of this newly resurgent cooking style the meat is cured, but not the addiction.

f/w 2016

departments Memo | 10 What’s in store for fall at Raleigh.

The RALEIGH Guide | 17 Eleventy goes global…Ask Mr. Etiquette…“Slow” clothes…a new spin on meatballs…Irish knit outershirts…and more.

Essentials | 24

chart your course

Channel your inner maverick with these spirited pieces. (They’re comfortable too!)

p.

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| raleigh

On the cover: Vince wears a blue-striped cashmere peak lapel sportcoat and light blue shirt, both by Brunello Cucinelli, blue and brown striped tie by Etro, pocket square by Robert Jensen, plaid pants by PT01, brown pebble grain double monk strap shoes by Ferragamo.

Stock up on the season’s best cashmere sweaters, polished vests, leather boots and all-weather topcoats.

THE LEADING MAN

michael caine | 34 In his screen demeanor and the way he wears a suit, this cool Cockney is the epitome of smooth.

on the run | 38 This season’s collections by Corneliani and Cucinelli transform the finest fibers into luxe layering pieces.

spirits | 62 It was popular during the Gold Rush, and now pisco is enlivening cocktails across the country.

directory | 64 Your guide to the Raleigh experience.

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www.brunellocucinelli.com

We love Codices, the ancient messengers of Art and Culture.

Illuminated page from “Pantheon” by Godfrey of Viterbo, Italy, 1331

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memo

raleigh

raleigh limited menswear the fashion mall keystone at the crossing 317.844.1148 raleighlimited.com

Store Hours Monday to saturday: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. sunday: Noon to 6 p.m.

Editorial Director cindi koplow Editor Mark Dowden Art Director stephen M. vitarbo Executive Editor rita guarna Managing Editor nicole lupo Associate Editor Darius Amos Contributing Editors Liz donovan, timothy kelley, Christina poletto, everett potter, josh sens,

What’s in store for fall sneak peek

boot up! p. 30

W

e may not be thrilled about shorter days and cooler temperatures, but there’s still plenty to love about the change of season. This issue of Raleigh magazine shows the many reasons why we love fall, and you’ll find even more when you visit us at Raleigh Limited Menswear.

Take, for example, our collection of outerwear. Top designers such as Boglioli, Corneliani and Eleventy create soft jackets—they’re both the perfect garment for a casual Sunday or dressed up and used like a sportcoat. If you’re looking for something warmer, our selection of topcoats—they come in fashion silhouettes and unique patterns that show your good sartorial sense—fit the bill. Plus you won’t mind braving nature’s elements when you’re wearing them.

What else do we have in store to keep you warm? Turn to “Don’t Sweat It!” on page 24 to see pieces from our wonderful assortment of cashmere knitwear, which comes in a variety of styles—classic crew, V-neck, zip mock, cardigans and hoodies (and, of course, turtlenecks). Wear them atop a new sport shirt—plaids and prints are on trend. And don’t forget about the season’s must-own piece: the vest. Vests are great for layering if you’re outdoors during one of those crisp afternoons. Some of our favorite shirts and vests can be seen in “In-vest-ed” on page 26.

For those headed to the office, Raleigh takes pride in putting you into the best tailored suits, sportcoats and shirts, which come in modern shapes, patterns and designs. Our top-quality suits open with a price point at around $595—so you can still pay your kid’s college tuition and dress well.

Ladies, we didn’t forget about you! We have a growing collection of modern outerwear that includes Canada Goose and Gimo’s. These iconic brands offer polar protection and are exceptionally stylish.

And there’s more great material in this issue. We write about Mercedes’ new rock-star sports coupe, the ski report from the slopes of Spain, a South American brandy—pisco— that’s one of the hottest spirits in the U.S., and much more!

Seeing is believing, so be sure to join us at one or more of our Made-to-Measure events and expanded trunk shows. We hope to see you soon.

Contributing Photographer Daniel springston Publishing staff Publisher Shae Marcus

Associate Publisher amy B. weiss National Brand Manager Monica Delli Santi Director of Production and Circulation Christine Hamel Advertising Services Manager jacquelynn fischer Senior Art Director, Agency Services Kijoo Kim Production/Art Assistant Alanna Giannantonio Accounting agnes alves, megan frank Published by Chairman Carroll V. Dowden President & CEO Mark Dowden Senior Vice Presidents sHAE MARCUS, Carl Olsen Vice Presidents Nigel Edelshain, Rita guarna, christine hamel raleigh Magazine is published by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Raleigh. Copyright © 2016 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, raleigh, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com.

The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions.

Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, raleigh Circulation Department, Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com.

Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

| raleigh

Mark Koplow

design contributor yvonne marki

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the

raleigh guide Writing With an Old Friend

Does the name FaberCastell call to mind a yellow Number 2 pencil you used in school?

This classic brand is actually much more— it’s made world-class art supplies and writing instruments since 1761. Its luxury line, Graf von Faber-Castell, offers pens that are the product of meticulous craftsmanship. The fountain pens, rollerball pens, propelling pencils and ball pens in its Classic Collection are designed as matching sets. You’ll look smart with one, no matter how you did on your SATs.

Eleventy Goes Global

Eleventy is taking on the world. The company was founded in Milan in 2007, but their recent retail expansion includes 16 boutiques from Italy to Korea to Australia to the U.S. And their global reach includes more than 500 outlets worldwide.

Their planetary mission is to “dress every person in the world who aspires to self-improvement….”

Talk about ambitious. But Eleventy seems perfectly suited for the job. They take the Italian craft of fashion very seriously and vow to not just uphold, but to raise its standards. Ultimately, they’re committed “to fostering ethical fashion and Italian elegance all over the world.” There they go again, taking on the world. And we will be better dressed for it.

Peak performance fall/winter 2016 |

Whether you’re scaling a Himalayan mountain or just trying to make it through another Midwest winter, you need a proven parka. So remember Canada Goose. Ladies will love the Trillium parka, the brand’s flattering extreme weather protector, or the polished style of the Kensington—it’s designed with a cinched waist and hits right above the knee. Want more proof of the company’s excellence? Canada Goose outfitted the expedition of Laurie Skreslet, the first Canadian to climb Mount Everest. And compared with life-threatening cold at 29,000 feet, an Indianapolis wind is a walk in the parka.

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the raleigh guide Who wears the pants?

The most discerning men, that’s who. The trouser line PT01’s name stands for Pantaloni Torino (Turin Pants), as the company’s headquarters is in fashion-conscious Turin.

Its products are known as cult items, with “style, character and personality.” Clearly more than just threads, PT01 pants have hit a chord with a lot of men: You can find PT01 in Italy’s best shops and in more than 400 stores in 39 countries—including, of course, Raleigh.

The A–Z List

A New Spin on Meatballs No longer just a side dish, meatballs are the main event at Mimi Blue Meatballs. The eatery, with locations in Indianapolis and Carmel, brings the comfort food to the masses.

Frank Sinatra tunes piped through the speakers add to the restaurant’s cool 1940s New York City vibe. The interactive menu asks diners to select a meatball style and sauce accompaniment—go with the classic, or choose from beef, turkey or veggie, then complement them with marinara or decidedly nontraditional sauces such as spicy cilantro or honey sriracha. Or add bread to the equation and get a sandwich or slider. The best part? It’s all up to you.

870 Massachusetts Ave., Suite 400, Indianapolis, 317.737.2625; 12505 Old Meridian St., Carmel, 317.564.8524; mimibluemeatballs.com

TRUNK SHOWS:

Your all-access pass

| raleigh

Raleigh’s trunk shows are an opportunity to meet representatives of your favorite brands and have clothing, shoes and other items custom-made.

Upcoming trunk shows include: October 14 Gimo’s

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October 15 Boglioli

Raleigh Limited Menswear features dozens of the world’s finest designer brands under one roof. See if you don’t find your favorites in the list below. Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love.

Ask Mr. Etiquette Mark Koplow explains how to sail through life without giving offense.

A lot of invitations these days say “cocktail attire.”

What the heck does that mean?

—Wondering in WestClay Your host is saying, “Get out of the business suit, lighten up and let’s have some fun.” That could mean no tie. It’s your option. A sportcoat, however, is a must—paired with an exciting shirt and a great pocket square.

Depending on the occasion, the party location and what your spouse is wearing, jeans can be appropriate. Trousers will certainly give you a dressier look. Naturally, accessories are key—shoes should be less serious, the belt should work with the shoes. Last but not least, make a splash with your socks. Colorful socks show a little more sartorial character when you’re kicking back with a cocktail.

Alberto Allegri Boglioli Bosca Brunello Cucinelli Canada Goose Canali Carrot & Gibbs Corneliani Culturata David Donahue Di Bello Donald J Pliner Eleventy Eton Etro Eye Bobs Faherty Brand Ferragamo Gimo’s Gran Sasso Hickey Freeman Hiltl Incotex Inis Meáin Isaia Jake Agave JKT/Triluxe Kinross Cashmere Lubiam Luciano Barbera Magnanni Meyer MMX Noah Waxman Norwegian Wool LLC Paul Betenly Paul & Shark Peter Millar Psycho Bunny PT01 Raffi Rag and Bone Robert Graham Robert Jansen Robert Talbott Samuelsohn

Sand Santo Stefano Sartore Sebastien James Stenströms TM Fashion/Handstitch Vince W. Kleinberg Wigens Wolverine Zanella Zegna

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HAND-CRAFTED IN NEW YORK

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the raleigh guide Survive a long flight

Flying from New York to Boston? No sweat.

But sitting in a cramped airline seat for hours on end as you hurtle across the globe? That’s a journey you might lose sleep over. Make surviving a long flight the least of your travel concerns with these tips: n Book the right seat. Size matters—as in your height and bladder. A window seat will give you incredible views and a place to rest your head, but you’ll have to climb over others each time nature calls. Score a bit more legroom and an easier path to the restroom with an aisle seat, but that too comes at a cost. Expect sleep interruptions from passengers in your row and those roaming the aisle. n Dress for comfort. Sure, you want to look polished, but park your tailored trousers and choose something with a more relaxed fit.

Because feet tend to swell, wear slip-ons or shoes with loose laces and material that easily expands. Stash extra socks or a light jacket in your carry-on in case the temperature takes a tumble. n Bring your own entertainment. If the in-flight flick is a bust, pass the time with a novel or your mobile devices. Make sure smartphones and tablets are fully charged, as decent Wi-Fi and power outlets aren’t standard on all planes. But remember to pull away from the electronics to hydrate. And be sure to stand up and stretch; you want to keep your blood flowing. n Pack essentials. We recommend a neck pillow, headphones, lip balm, toothbrush, snacks and gum. And moisturizer will help you avoid feeling like a reptile.

“Slow” Clothes

From the land that gave you the Slow Food movement—specifically Italy—comes a company that’s a kindred spirit: Slowear. Started in 1951 (as the pants brand Incotex) by Venetian Carlo Compagno—who handed off that business to sons Roberto and Marzio—the company respects “slow” as a way of devoting time to workmanship and quality. Slowear, which designs for both men and women, follows a unique “3F rule”: the best fabrics, fittings and finishings, to create their special version of smart casual. On top of that, they take pride in making garments that not only look good, but also are durable and reliable. So you get form and function. Get on board with the Slowear movement and learn to savor your clothing like you do your penne alla vodka.

When film and fashion collide We know to take fashion cues from Hollywood’s best, from Clark Gable’s stunning looks in Gone With the Wind to the costumes elegantly designed by Giorgio Armani for The Untouchables. But what about the influence of The Bride of Frankenstein or the sinister purple villain from Batman?

Fashion historian Amber Butchart explores more than 100 years of silver screen couture in The Fashion of Film (Mitchell Beazley, $39.99), a collection of photographs and stories showcasing the inspiration that several iconic movies had on the sartorial world. See how Wes Anderson’s films are mirrored in the collections of Miuccia Prada and what Audrey Hepburn donned to influence Hubert de Givenchy. Pick a genre—crime, musical, historical epic, horror and sci-fi—Butchart, a former head buyer and trend analyst for Beyond Retro, shows the reader connections between cinema and the catwalk.

Whether you’re a film buff, a fashionista or simply someone who appreciates good taste in clothing, this collection of photos and words is a must-have.

| raleigh

The Little Company That Could

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Thirty miles off the coast of Ireland are the rugged Aran Islands—they’re beautiful, but tough, and you’ve got to endure the harsh elements to survive there. From this demanding environment comes Inis Meáin (named after of one of the three islands), a line of outershirts that can take anything you can throw at them. Drawing on the islanders’ tradition of knitting warm outerwear for sailors, husband-andwife team Tarlach de Blácam and Áine Ní Chonghaile founded Inis Meáin Knitting Company in 1976 with six machines and a dream. A small company, Inis Meáin specializes in small runs of new and traditional styles. Although they may be on a tiny island, their authenticity, unique designs, beautiful yarns and handcrafted finishing makes them a favorite of customers at Raleigh.

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FIRST THINGS FIRST: PERUSE THE DESSERT MENU. DON’T SKIMP.

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essentials

don’t sweat it!

Cashmere sweaters by Kinross Cashmere.

| raleigh

Crew, V, zipped or buttoned (and yes, cardigan and turtle) — have we got a sweater (or more) for you.

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essentials

in-vest-ed A well-fitted vest pays dividends when it comes to looking polished.

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From top, grey houndstooth shirt by Eleventy, black speckled vest by L.B.M., grey and navy plaid shirt by Sand Jeans, solid navy vest by Eleventy, grey plaid shirt by Peter Millar and navy speckled vest by L.B.M.

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No matter the destination, prepared is always a proper look.

A W 16 . E X P L O R E I N S T Y L E .

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essentials

toppers to try Stay stylish and warm this season with one (or two, or all) of these easy pieces.

| raleigh

Navy down coat with leather trim and a shearling collar

by Gimo’s.

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Selkirk parka in military green

by Canada Goose.

Tan suede vest with plaid lining by Eleventy.

Grey two-tone sweater

by Rag & Bone.

Reversible leather-to-herringbone cashmere jacket by Brunello Cucinelli.

Tan knit hooded coat with shearling collar by Gimo’s.

Navy wool coat

by Eleventy.

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essentials

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Vintage Hiker boot by Rag & Bone in dark brown leather.

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boot up!

There’s a kick for every occasion, be it hiking, strolling or hitting the town. You might just need all seven!

Beacon shearling-lined chukka boot by Noah Waxman.

Santino black leather boot

by Donald J Pliner.

Multicolor leather Spencer chukka boot by Rag & Bone.

Spencer black pebble grain chukka boot with lug sole by Rag & Bone.

Brown leather Sansone boot with green soles by Donald J Pliner.

Siro chukka boot by Donald J Pliner in textured brown leather.

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N E V E R

S T A Y

J U S T

S T A Y .

I N S P I R E D.

Experience a world of style and infinite connections at Conrad Indianapolis. Wake up in one of 247 stylish guestrooms, connect with art through A Fine Art Experience, dine at the refined Capital Grille, indulge at Tastings.. A Wine Experience and experience ultimate relaxation at Evan Todd Spa and Salon.

50 West Washington Street, Indianapolis, Indiana 46204 | Phone +1 317.713.5000 | ConradIndianapolis.com

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the leading man

Cool Cockney In his screen demeanor and the way he wears a suit, British actor Michael Caine is the epitome of smooth. By Timothy Kelley

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File in 1965 and womanizing Cockney chauffeur Alfie in ’66. In 1969’s The Italian Job, a garage door memorably slides open to reveal superthief Caine in a dove grey, three-button sharkskin suit. And in Get Carter (1971) the title-role gangster sports a single-breasted, two-button, three-piece suit of blue Dormeuil tonik mohair.

Fittingly, for years Caine’s personal tailor was the late Doug Hayward (reputedly the model for Alfie’s character), a fellow workingclasser whose unacceptable accent had kept him off Savile Row. Hayward won renown in the Carnaby Street era, shocking the Establishment with the notion that machine-sewn buttonholes might be cricket after all, and he married classic English suit design with an Italian touch.

Of course, no mere clotheshorse wins Oscar nominations in each of the five decades starting in the ’60s (a distinction Caine shares only with Jack Nicholson), or holds one’s own (as he did in 1972’s Sleuth) with Olivier. But for half a century we’ve watched what this cool customer wore. And he’s worn very well indeed.

Clockwise from top left: Film icon Michael Caine portrays the title character in 2009’s action-thriller Harry Brown.

The Oscar winner strolls with a hand in the pocket of his suit. Looking dapper as a magician in Now You See Me. A Rolex on his wrist, Caine wraps an arm around co-star Giovanna Ralli on the Spanish set of 1968’s Deadfall.

fall/winter 2016

oody Allen’s no fool. When in 1986’s Hannah and Her Sisters he cast British actor Michael Caine as a lovestruck middle-aged neurotic stumbling into an affair, he was having a bit of fun. Fact is, moviegoers know Sir Michael isn’t the stumbling type (though the role won him an Oscar). He’s a striding definition of suave.

Caine “has been personifying British cool since the Swinging Sixties,” says CNN. Indeed, queen and country boast no classier screen hero. But Caine’s class isn’t upper—despite his knighthood, conferred in 2000. He was born Maurice Micklewhite in 1933 a few blocks from the Thames, and his accent remains less Oxbridge than London Bridge.

“When I became a success I sort of shoved it down their throat and continued to talk the way I did,” he’s explained. “I wanted to say to young people, ‘You can do it; it doesn’t matter how you speak.’ ” But it does matter how you look. Caine has put his six-foot frame and handsome, heavylidded puss to splendid sartorial use ever since he portrayed a crook-turned-spy in The Ipcress

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| raleigh

on the run

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Fall/Winter 2016:

corneliani

The design house goes retro this season, with a collection sporting sophisticated mid-century details.

T

fall/winter 2016

hose who know about fashion know the effect a well-made sportcoat, an expertly tailored suit or, even, the perfect T-shirt can have on its wearer.

But every so often a collection comes along that has the power to affect its audience in ways beyond just feeling good.

In Corneliani’s latest venture, the clothes deliver a more-than-subtle throwback quality peppered with early- and mid-century accents. The proportions, reflective of the post–World War II 1940s, are evident via distinctly oversize coat shoulders. Lapels are short, but broader, and collars are enlarged.

Suits cut to slimming effect succeed at mirroring the sentiment of yesteryear with the use of luxe fabrics and moody, retro styling. Corneliani brings a touch of sport to the collection with casual coat options like nylon parkas and trenches— while they’re more contemporary offerings, their inclusion doesn’t create a disconnect from the general personality of the collection.

The Italian brand’s finely designed, classic trousers go retro with a smartlooking, high-waisted fit. Non-tapered legs fall in clean, straight lines with a structured but fashionably fluid-like effect. The sheen of luxe fabrics bring these garments to life, making them ideal for wearing to work, or to an even more important occasion.

In the case of the Corneliani man, the clothes make a statement without saying a word. He thrives on living in the moment, but very respectfully, even romantically, acknowledges the not-so-distant past in a way that only these clothes can.

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on the run

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Fall/Winter 2016:

cucinelli

Lightness, softness, quality. This season’s collection transforms the finest fibers into luxe layering pieces.

T

fall/winter 2016

here’s an air of easy yet elegant nonchalance surrounding every new offering from Italy-based Cucinelli. Yet the renowned brand’s 2016 fall/winter collection delivers more than that—it’s replete with breezy but comfortably tailored fabrics and pieces meant to be effortlessly paired. For men, the neutral-toned collection is built around the ever-practical jacket, offered in lush, supple fabrics but constructed to keep its shape—and edge—whether in the boardroom or out on the town. Designer Brunello Cucinelli believes a well-fitting men’s jacket has the power to instill confidence and instantly define a look. To complement this, the brand added a wide range of pant styles, from more formal, fitted trousers to alternatives of denim or jogger-inspired cozy cashmere leggings.

For women, there’s a leitmotif of modern, masculine design details. Front and center is an array of comfortable trousers featuring pleats and tapers meant to complement the female silhouette. Here, the pants are paired with fabrics and textures common to high-end menswear suiting. While the collection is infused with retro attitude, the pieces don’t feel too heavy or forcefully laced with machismo.

Cucinelli finds balance by juxtaposing the generous sizing and boxy proportions of his coats with a small batch of full, flowy skirt forms, more-fitted blouses and light-weave sweaters intended for layering.

The secret to making this lineup work together? Using only the finest, most gorgeous fabrics, according to Cucinelli. At a glance, one will find threads of alpaca, mohair and his signature cashmere, among others, resulting in pieces as comfortable as they are warm and luxurious.

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road warrior

The new Mercedes-AMG GT S has serious rock star presence that transcends its elegant design. It was literally handcrafted by racers to own the road.

If you’ve a need for speed, this svelte sports coupe effortlessly scoots its way to a top speed of 192 mph. Comfortably. But more than that, it’s fully equipped with racinginspired controls, and designed to perform exactly as a supercar should.

The AMG GT S boasts a 503-horsepower, 4.0-liter biturbo V8 engine and a seven-speed dual-clutch automatic transmission. Its massive torque reaches its 479 lb-ft peak at just 1,750 rpm and holds it all the way to 4,750 rpm, letting you go from zero to 60 in a scorching 3.7 seconds.

“Dial in” the car’s performance character with the twist of a knob on the console. Choose from four preset modes—comfort, sport, sport+ and race—plus an individual mode that you can configure yourself.

LED headlamps with stylized “eyebrows” as daytime running lamps, side lights and indicators—as well as three separate high-beam reflectors—give the GT S its distinctive look.

Some 260 grill pins, capped in chrome and individually sized and spaced by the car’s designer, add an air of elegance to the exterior.

| Raleigh

The weight distribution of 47 to 53 percent between the front and rear axle, coupled with the car’s low center of gravity, translates to extremely agile handling and high cornering speeds.

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The body of the GT S is almost entirely composed of aluminum (more than 97 percent), and its spaceframe weighs just 514 pounds—a class benchmark. Among the non-aluminum components: a radiator support made of lightweight magnesium.

Inside, drivers will find deeply contoured leather seats, a 10-speaker Burmester surround sound system and a pair of high-resolution screens displaying entertainment, navigation, audio and other features.

Standard are high-performance tires staggered in both width and diameter (19 inches in the front, 20 in the rear) for maximum power delivery and super-sharp steering response.

Starting Price:

$131,200

A leather-wrapped, multifunction steering wheel offers easy access to the vehicle functions you use most often. Note the racing-inspired side grips.

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Fully variable exhaust flaps let you vary the engine sound depending on the preset mode you select—comfort, sport, sport+ and race.

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The enormous 15.4-inch front discs are grasped by powerful six-piston fixed calipers finished with eyepopping red paint and the AMG logo.

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chart your course

Channel your inner maverick with these spirited pieces. (They’re comfortable too!)

| raleigh

Photography by Daniel Springston

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Grey plaid suit with peak lapels by Hickey Freeman, black turtleneck by Zanone and pocket square by Etro.

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This page, grey-and-graphite jacket and brown plaid shirt, both by Paul & Shark and jeans by Heritage 34. Opposite from left, tan cashmere unconstructed jacket by Boglioli, colorblock shirt by Etro, brown jeans by Hiltl, silk pocket square by Etro; green cable-knit zippered sweater by Inis Meรกin, plaid sport shirt by Etro and blue cargo pants by PT01.

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| raleigh

This page, plaid shirt by Inis Meรกin, charcoal turtleneck by Gran Sasso and blue pants by Meyer. Opposite from left, brown suit, striped shirt and striped tie, all by Zegna, pocket square by Robert Jensen; grey-andblue sweater and striped shirt, both by Etro, and blue trousers by Incotex.

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This page, navy suit by Isaia, white pinstripe shirt

by Zegna, brown tie by Isaia and plaid pocket square by Robert Jensen. Opposite from left, grey-and-green plaid sportcoat by Samuelsohn, white shirt by Stenstrรถms, green tie by Isaia, pocket square by Tino Cosma, navy trousers by Incotex; greyand-brown windowpane sportcoat by Canali, brown turtleneck by Gran Sasso and charcoal trousers by Sartore.

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the sporting life

the slopes of spain

It’s not the country you think of first for skiing, but Baqueira-Beret in the Pyrenees will make you think again. By Everett Potter

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| Raleigh

ention Baqueira-Beret to most American skiers and you’ll get a blank stare. Tell them this resort is located in the Spanish Pyrenees and that won’t help much, since few Yanks realize that this mountain range along the France–Spain border harbors more than three dozen ski resorts.

Yet Baqueira-Beret is Spain’s largest ski resort, well known to well-heeled residents of Madrid and Barcelona, and none other than King Juan Carlos himself has a ski home here. Talk about your bestkept secrets.

Why ski the Pyrenees? Abundant snow and the opportunity to experience a radically different ski culture are the prime reasons. Where else can you enjoy a ski day with a luxuriously lazy 11 a.m. start, take a 6 p.m. siesta and have dinner at 11, with a nightclub visit around 1 a.m.? (If you dine at 8, you dine only with other Americans.)

I checked into the Hotel Val de Neu, the only five-star luxury hotel in the heart of the BaqueiraBeret resort, next to an upscale shopping center and a short walk to the lifts. The hotel is a bastion of comfortable luxury and high design, minimal in style, with lighting that highlights the local stone and wood used throughout. Black-and-white photographic artwork that pays homage to the resort is judiciously displayed. There are nice touches, like a welcome of hot chocolate and churros, and a pillow menu to ensure a good night’s sleep. Cookies or small cakes awaited me after a day on the slopes.

The hotel is a few minutes’ walk to the slopes and has ski lockers in the gondola building, so there’s no need to lug your gear. At day’s end, my mission was to clock some time at the spa, with its

series of thermal pools of varying degrees of heat.

The skiing here is truly alpine, which is to say above tree line, vast and open with views that go on for miles. The 4,700-acre resort, larger than Breckenridge or Snowmass in Colorado, has three distinct areas. Beret is aimed at families, with beginner and intermediate slopes that are wellgroomed runs. Baqueira has some intermediate runs and a few expert runs. It’s a good place to test your legs in the morning on runs such as Muguet, which stretches far out into a bowl, and Solei, where long straight cruisers took the edge off my jet lag.

On the third day, I explored Bonaigua, which is an area that beckons experts. It lacks snowmaking, and runs are not always groomed. It is also steeper than the other parts of the resort, and there are challenges that would be familiar to anyone who has skied Jackson Hole with its chutes and couloirs.

But the real appeal for experts in this area is the off-piste skiing, with countless opportunities to dive off the groomed stuff. The most famous of these is called Escornacrabes, which means “where goats tumble.” I looked, but had no ambition to mimic a mountain goat on a fatal fall.

By day four, I was ready for something a little more challenging. So I signed up for a day with Pyrenees Heliski, based in the valley town of Vielha. A day with five runs costs $896, which in the rarefied world of heli-skiing is something of a steal. We ran through our transceiver and safety training—they use the ABS or Avalanche Balloon System here—and were outfitted with backpacks, shovel, probe and avalanche transceiver before we lifted off on a bluebird morning. It was as excit-

ing as previous heli-ski experiences I’ve had at Revelstoke in the Canadian Rockies, with the pilot able to choose from a staggering amount of terrain, in this case some 155 square miles of the Pyrenees, as a snow playground. At each “drop,” as they call them in Europe, we jumped out in a crouched position, clicked into our fat powder skis and followed the guide as he made heroic figure-eights down the meringue-like slopes. Now, five runs might not sound like much until you add up the vertical, since we chalked up roughly 11,400 feet of vertical that day, comparable to any operator in the American West. By day’s end, my thighs were craving those thermal pools back at the Val de Neu. In the evening, tapas is always on the minds of tired skiers. In the town of Vielha, eateries like Basteret Bar-Restaurant let you savor prawns, cheeses, sausages and much more. In Arties, with its charming old streets, there are countless tapas bars, such as Tauèrnes Urtau, which I loved. Move on to a late dinner at Eth Restilhè, where you might find local trout on the menu and typical Catalan desserts such as crema catalana, the local version of crème brûlée. One night, post-tapas, I ended up in the more formal Ticolet in Baqueira, which has been gastronomic ground zero for 40 years, and even had a sighting of a minor royal, according to a local dinner companion.

A week of this and I was an easy convert to the Spanish way of ski life: a late start, enough runs to work up the first of many appetites of the day, and a sleep as deep as I could wish for. Skiing Pyrenees style is one of the most enjoyable ways I can think of to spend a winter week in Europe.

Clockwise from top: At 4,700 acres, Baqueira-Beret is the largest ski area in Spain. Six peaks are served by 33 lifts, with a 3,450-foot vertical drop, which is similar to Vail, Colorado. After a long afternoon of skiing it’s time to hit the thermal pools at the Hotel Val de Neu. The wide valley that Baqueira-Beret inhabits extends for nearly 25 miles, with France at the other end. Beer lovers won’t want to miss Birreria Eth Refugi at the base of the gondola; it features microbrews from more than 70 countries. In the mood for some adventure? Try heli-skiing. Some 155 square miles of the Pyrenees can be your own snow playground. The Hotel Val de Neu enjoys a privileged location—just 50 yards from the ski lift and close to new shopping opportunities in Baqueira.

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the art of

charcuterie

For enthusiasts of this newly resurgent cooking style the meat is cured, but not the addiction. By Liz Donovan

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| Raleigh

t long last, being a carnivore is “in” again. For years, many of us have yielded the high ground to our vegetarian friends, remarking to one another only sotto voce that they’re missing a lot of good eats. But now the ancient European tradition of charcuterie—finely honed techniques for preparing cooked or processed meats such as sausages and patés—is making a big comeback among discerning chefs right here in the U.S.A. With a respect for nature and an abhorrence of waste, they’re making culinary history. So hold your heads high, meat eaters! And meet three top practitioners of this tasty art.

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Chris Consentino Boccalone and Cockscomb, San Francisco

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This celebrity chef says meat is his muse. Popularly known for his TV appearances—for example, on Food Network’s Iron Chef America and as winner of Bravo’s Top Chef Masters—he has made a name as a leader in charcuterie’s resurgence.

As executive chef at Incanto in San Francisco, which closed in 2014, Chris Consentino hosted an annual “head-to-tail” dinner in which he’d make a point of using an entire animal, even serving pork’s blood with chocolate for dessert. This philosophy, he says, was inspired by his friend, French chef Jean-Louis Palladin, who taught him “to be realistic and respectful about the path an animal takes from farm or forest to plate.”

At Incanto, Consentino created a house-cured charcuterie plate that included mortadella and fennel salame. When guests asked where they could purchase Incanto’s meats, Consentino and Incanto owner Mark Pastore opened a salumeria (Italian delicatessen) called Boccalone, also in the City by the Bay, in 2007. (The slogan on its T-shirts: “Tasty Salted Pig Parts.”)

There and at farmers’ markets, customers can purchase Consentino’s meats, including the bestselling mortadella hot dogs and cured salumis, such as capocollo, a neck meat aged with spices; guanciale, a salt-cured pork cheek used in Carbonara dishes; and even orange and wild fennel salame. (Customers enjoy getting a selection in the store’s popular “meat cone” dish.)

Besides Boccalone, Consentino focuses his attention on his newest restaurant venture, Cockscomb, and his blog, OffalGood.com, which highlights his passion for cooking offal, the parts of an animal that are not skeletal muscle. (It literally means “off fall”—the pieces that fall off the animal during butchering.) But don’t expect him to rest on his laurels—this creative chef is constantly reinventing. “The possibility of catching lightning in a bottle, or within a salami casing, is enticing,” he has said. “That’s what will forever thrill us about the art of cured meats.”

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| raleigh

Zach Allen B&B Hospitality, Las Vegas Meat making is part passion and part tradition for Zach Allen. While he was growing up, his Germanheritage family gathered each fall to create a big batch of smoked sausages. His interest in working with cured and smoked meats professionally was piqued on a trip to Italy, where he met prosciutto makers and was inspired to learn charcuterie. At that time, Allen was preparing for the opening of Mario Batali’s Otto in New York City; he was determined to cure all meats—from those served as antipasti to the pepperoni on the pizzas—in-house.

To learn the craft, Allen worked with Armandino Batali, Mario’s father, who runs the famed Salumi in Seattle, and took formal training at Iowa State University’s Meat Lab, where he discovered the chemistry and technology behind meat curing and smoking.

“You need to know the science,” he explains. “Why you need the salt, the sugar, the nitrate and so on— and you need to be careful using them to make sure you’re safe.” Through Allen, Otto became the first New York City restaurant to have a cured meats plan approved by the city’s Health Department for HACCP (hazard analysis and critical control points), a food-safety system pioneered by NASA. Pig parts some chefs would discard engage Allen’s imagination. The loin, which is lean with a little fat but “not marbled like a shoulder,” he says, can be turned into lonza. “We season with salt and a little sugar and let the sweetness of the meat sing,” he says. Meanwhile, he handles the fattier shoulder by rubbing it first with salt and sugar, then rolling it in ground black pepper, fennel and cayenne to make coppa. Ankles, which contain tough meat, need a little extra work to become a succulent full-flavored cotechino. “We’ll season it with a lot of fall spices— black pepper, cinnamon, cayenne and clove—poach it really slowly in Prosecco for two to three hours,” he says. “Add all the skin and fat and it becomes tender.”

As for overall guidance, “it’s important to respect and look at the animal,” Allen says. “Take what the pig gives you and make it from there.”

He oversees 10 restaurants with B&B Hospitality, and has helped Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich open 17 properties in the United States and abroad. He brings in thousands of pounds of pork from Heritage Farms USA, which provides the restaurants with pigs bred and raised exclusively for them. “If you’re going to eat meat, this is the best way,” Allen says. “You’re using the animal to its fullest. You’re not wasting anything.”

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Jamie Bissonnette Coppa, Boston; Toro, New York, Boston and Bangkok; Little Donkey, Cambridge, Mass.

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This meat genius actually spent many years as a vegetarian and vegan. Eventually, his culinary ambitions prompted a diet change. Jamie Bissonnette recalls that a one-time boss “said I was a good cook, but I’d never be a great cook unless I started eating the food.”

In 2011, Bissonnette won $10,000 on the Food Network show Chopped; in 2014, he was awarded the James Beard Foundation Award for the Best Chef Northeast and also published The New Charcuterie Cookbook: Exceptional Cured Meats to Make and Serve at Home. Today he owns five restaurants, having added Cambridge’s Little Donkey just this summer.

Writes celebrity chef Andrew Zimmern of Bissonnette: “He can take ordinary food, even odd bits, fifth-quarter stuff (the pluck, the viscera, ‘the nasty’ to some) and make angels weep.”

The rabbit mortadella in the book earned Zimmern’s praise; ambitious home chefs can also find recipes for Bissonnette’s duck prosciutto and Vietnamese bologna, or Cha Lua. For those hoping to get a taste of the chef’s own creations, an array of salumis, patés and sausages is available at Coppa.

Toro, a Barcelona-style eatery that focuses on seafood, finds room on its menu for Bissonnette’s carnivorous creations in tapas dishes, such as smoked beef heart and seared foie gras.

Those vegan days are long ago, but this chef’s respect for animals endures. He began experimenting with offal after seeing parts of the animal go to waste once the popular cuts were butchered off. “When I made the change from vegetarian to omnivore, I wanted as little waste as possible,” he says. He also insists on knowing where his meat comes from and only sourcing ingredients from sustainable providers, advising people not to cook with meat they don’t know anything about. “I only use people I can get to know and speak with about the pigs and how they were raised,” he says.

For would-be charcuterie enthusiasts, Bissonnette has simple advice: “It’s not something you can learn on a stage. It’s something one has to be really dedicated to.

But it’s delicious.”

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spirits

Peruvian Delight

It was popular during the Gold Rush, and now pisco is enlivening cocktails across the country. By Virginie Boone

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| Raleigh

ne of the hottest spirits in the U.S. right now is pisco, a South American brandy distilled from wine. Lots of spirits tied to Europe date back hundreds of years, but pisco traces its roots to the 1500s, when Spanish missionaries in Peru and Chile began planting grapes to make wine.

The grapes were varieties like Muscat, Torontel and Pedro Jimenez, and the vines grown at fairly high elevation. As the French did with Cognac, South Americans figured out how to make pisco from these crops, fortifying the wine by distilling it in copper pot stills.

For pisco, grapes are harvested February through April, the Southern Hemisphere’s autumn harvest time, and the seeds and stems removed. The remaining fruit is crushed into juice and fermented using native yeast. Pisco then rests for a minimum of 90 days in “neutral” vessels, with oak never in

the picture. It’s made to be enjoyed right away, with nothing added— no water, no sugar, no caramel.

Named for a port in Peru, pisco also has a long legacy in California, where going back to the Gold Rush days it was a staple on San Francisco’s wild Barbary Coast.

There the Pisco Punch, a loose and powerful commingling of pisco, pineapple, lime juice, sugar and water, was born in the late 1800s.

Mark Twain, Rudyard Kipling and other literary figures enjoyed Pisco Punch when it was all the rage in San Francisco in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. And, as New Yorker founding editor Harold Ross recalled, it “[tasted] like lemonade but had a kick like vodka, or worse.”

Today, a pisco producer called Campo de Encanto (which translates to Field of Enchantment) uses grapes from Peru’s Ica Valley. Developed by San Francisco bartender

Duggan McDonnell and sommelier Walter Moore in collaboration with Peruvian distiller Carlos Romero, its small-batch product is blended from five types of old-vine grapes, creating a smooth combination of peaches, almonds and mint.

The true test of pisco? Swirl it before you sip, says McDonnell.

And make sure the bubbles dissipate quickly. If they don’t, it means the spirit has been diluted, and thus isn’t real pisco.

Enjoy pisco neat, with a twist of lime, or in cocktails such as the Pisco Sour, a combination of the liquor with lime juice, sugar syrup and a shaken egg white. This is a drink that’s refreshing and proteinrich, smooth and sweet. Or consider Encanto’s Pisco Punch mixer, the Bank Exchange Pineapple Cordial, named for the saloon on San Francisco’s Montgomery Street that famously served pisco cocktails in the 19th century.

Clockwise from top left: The Paracas National Reserve, a popular tourist attraction in Peru, is located in Ica, one of the country’s five official D.O. (Denomination of Origin) departments where pisco can be produced. The premium brand BarSol uses centuries-old copper pot stills to distill its piscos. Combine the lively spirit with lime juice, sugar syrup and an egg white to create the classic Pisco Sour. Enjoy dinner and drinks at Illariy, one of the most popular restaurants in Cusco. In Peru, only eight grape varietals can be used to make the fermented spirit. BarSol specializes in piscos produced with Quebranta, Italia and Torontel grapes. Campo de Encanto was the brainchild of a San Francisco bartender and sommelier.

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the service directory

Raleigh Personal Service As a family-owned business, we take a lot of pride in everything we do at Raleigh. We have the finest sales professionals that you will find anywhere, and our experienced tailoring staff works diligently to make sure that you look great. Our commitment to our customers goes beyond the sale. Service impacts every part of our business, and our goal is to constantly exceed your expectations. Here are some of the things we do to take care of you. Of course, special requests are always welcome!

expertise A central part of the Raleigh Experience is superlative service in a relaxed atmosphere. If you want to browse in private, you’re more than welcome. When you need expert, individual attention, you’ll get it—instantly and for as long as you want. Our knowledgeable staff is well versed in all of the brands we carry, the trends of the season and how to fit every body type. They stand ready to advise you on all matters of wardrobe and accessories.

Delivery We understand that sometimes it’s a challenge to get to the store to pick up your alterations. Just let us know when and where, and we’ll be happy to deliver them to you.

shopping by appointment If our store hours don’t fit your schedule, call us. If you’re a morning person who finds 7 a.m. the ideal time for your Raleigh Experience, we will arrange to be here. Shopping by appointment allows us to give you the personal attention and shopping time you need, when your schedule permits.

Closet Cleaning

Special Orders

Sometimes it’s hard to part with old friends. We can help. When you shop for your new seasonal wardrobe, our sales associates will come to your home and let you know which items are worn or out of style, and suggest how to coordinate your existing clothes with new additions. We’ll even take your old clothes and donate them to a local charity on your behalf.

Whether it’s a suit, sportcoat or a pair of shoes, if you can’t find what you’re looking for, just let us know.

We’ll do our best to find it from one of our many resources.

tailor shop Our on-site tailor shop is at your disposal for alterations to your Raleigh purchases. We provide sameday service when necessary and can usually handle minor alterations while you wait. The same goes for emergency repairs and routine wardrobe maintenance, such as tightening loose buttons: Bring the garment in, and we’ll fix that button on the spot.

Raleigh gift cards A Raleigh Gift Card guarantees your gift will be the perfect style, size and color. Purchase a gift card at the store in any denomination you choose for a remembrance that will dazzle any lucky recipient.

made-tomeasure service Our Made-to-Measure service takes advantage of the relationships we have established with Italian manufacturers to deliver a suit that is smart and sexy—and a good value— in just four to six weeks. You won’t find a better plan to look your best.

chart your course Chann

el you inner r Sure, all your new clothes look m withof thes averick piece e spirited s. (Th ey great atcomthe store, ’r but sometimes, fortab le too!e ) once you get home, it’s hard to remember what goes with what. Just ask and we’ll be happy to photograph your ensembles. | raleigh

| raleigh

Like any gracious host, we always offer our guests something to drink.

The Lavazza Bar is the perfect place to relax, reflect and enjoy coffee, espresso, cappuccino or a cool drink in between trips to the dressing room.

Keep up with the latest scores on our flat screen. Need to charge your iPhone or iPad? No problem. We’ve got all the bases covered.

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