Raleigh: Spring/Summer 2016 by Wainscot Media

raleigh S P R I N G f as h ions GOLF IN IRELAND

YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO STYLE

spring / summer 2016

top te q uilas S assy new jag I n sear c h o f s h ang h ai S p r i n g / s u m m e r 2 0 16

spring ahead

JAG’S SASSY NEW 6-SPEED the world’s best tequilas In search of shanghai tee off in ireland

Move your wardrobe forward with the fashion finds of the season

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contents

features The cat’s meow | 32

Ready for everything | 46

Jaguar’s F-type S two-seater combines classic inspiration with a sassy new spirit.

Romantic getaway? Check. Weekend errands? Check. Let Raleigh fill all your sartorial needs.

in search of shanghai | 40

Raleigh stories | 55

The top metropolis in the world’s busiest land sparkles with history, culture and nightlife.

What makes a visit to Raleigh so unforgettable? Three loyal customers happily share their experiences.

s/s 2016

departments Memo | 8 Celebrate spring!

The Raleigh Guide | 13 King of cashmere...“link in” to luxury...walk for a good cause...the look of Eleventy...Ask Mr. Etiquette...and more.

Essentials | 18 Update your wardrobe with some of our favorite pieces for spring and summer.

On the run | 26 This season’s offerings from Canali make the case for elegant nonchalance.

Note to self...

THE MUSE

Helen Mirren | 30

Stock up on the latest spring and summer fashions at Raleigh.

On stage and screen—and in her fashion choices—this great dame has been a trailblazing force for decades.

Sporting life | 52

Golf has a Gaelic accent at Lahinch on Ireland’s windy west coast.

spirits | 59 In honor of National Tequila Day we serve up a half-dozen of the top tequilas in the world.

service directory | 62 Your guide to the Raleigh experience.

Grooming | 64

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On the cover:

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Black and white plaid sportcoat by Hickey Freeman, white dress shirt by Eton, grey silk tie by Isaia, pocket square and lapel flower both by Edward Armah.

Forehead creases and under-eye bags getting you down? Don’t worry, there’s an “injectable” for that.

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memo

raleigh raleigh limited menswear the fashion mall keystone at the crossing 317.844.1148 raleighlimited.com

Store Hours Monday to saturday: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. sunday: Noon to 6 p.m. Editorial Director cindi koplow Editor Mark Dowden Art Director stephen M. vitarbo Executive Editor rita guarna Managing Editor carol bialkowski Senior Editor timothy kelley Associate Editor Darius Amos Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Michael Hiller

Celebrate spring! sneak peek

linked in p.13

Indianapolis’ favorite time of year has arrived—spring! With clear skies and sunny days ahead, a colorful new wardrobe is a must. Every spring we look forward to showing our clients ways to add color to their wardrobe with fun yet wearable pieces. In particular, we are seeing lots of blue—in various shades—this season, and we love pairing it with pops of red and elegant neutrals. Prints also continue to be a big trend. They add interest to any outfit and work surprisingly well with sportcoats that have a check or windowpane pattern. In terms of fit, modern, classic and soft silhouettes are de rigueur. And, of course, we recommend natural fibers, including featherweight cashmeres, silks, linens and tropical wools. Some of our favorites can be seen in “Note to Self,” beginning on page 34. Lightweight leathers and suedes in both classic and vintage styles are perfect for less formal occasions and the warmer weather. And casual trousers in luxurious fabrics with a hint of stretch make for a great look and fit. Of course, spring is also gala season, and Raleigh has you covered. Yes, we have gorgeous black tuxedos, but there’s so much more. Why not try a navy or charcoal tux or classic white silk dinner jacket? What else will you find in this issue of Raleigh magazine? We report on a sassy new two-seater Jaguar plus a quintessential Gaelic golf experience. And learn how the latest “injectables” can refresh your face. Get the scoop on Brunello Cucinelli, Boglioi and some of the other designer brands we carry…and much more. We hope you have a wonderful spring and hope to see you in the store soon. Mark Koplow

design contributors eileen crabill, yvonne marki Contributing Photographers Thomas Mueller, Daniel springston Publishing staff Publisher Shae Marcus

Associate Publisher amy B. weiss National Brand Manager Monica Delli Santi Senior Account Executive Carol xanthos Director of Production and Circulation Christine Hamel Advertising Services Manager jacquelynn fischer Senior Art Director, Agency Services Kijoo Kim Production/Art Assistant Alanna Giannantonio Accounting agnes alves, megan frank Published by Chairman Carroll V. Dowden President & CEO Mark Dowden Senior Vice Presidents sHAE MARCUS, Carl Olsen Vice Presidents Nigel Edelshain, Rita guarna, christine hamel raleigh Magazine is published by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Raleigh. Copyright © 2016 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, raleigh, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, raleigh Circulation Department, Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541;

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email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

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EXTRAORDINARY PERFORMANCE

TEST-DRIVE THE NEW JAGUAR F-TYPE S TODAY.

4620 E 96th St, Indianapolis, IN 46240 888.698.5430 | JaguarIndianapolis.com

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the

raleigh guide King of cashmere A focus on sports

There’s much more drama in sports than the thrill of victory and the agony of defeat, and Marc Aspland captures a lot of it in The Art of Sports Photography (Prestel, $49.95). In this gorgeous book Aspland, chief sports photographer at The Times in London for more than 25 years, shares more than 100 rarely seen images from his personal collection. Prominent figures such as David Beckham, Usain Bolt, Roger Federer and Mike Tyson adorn the pages in exciting action shots and penetrating portraits that tell a dramatic story. Iconic moments from some of the world’s most important sporting events—FIFA World Cup, Wimbledon, the Tour de France, the Olympics—are also featured, alongside images that simply show the joy sports brings to people around the globe. See, for example, page 58, where three young siblings play soccer in South Africa. The goalkeeper leaps through the air to deflect a shot while his brother and sister act as human goalposts. Whether you’re a sports fan, a photography enthusiast or simply someone who appreciates striking imagery, you’ll be captivated by Aspland’s remarkable work.

If you’re a cashmere lover—and who isn’t?— you must get to know Brunello Cucinelli. He is the king of the sumptuous fabric, producing some of the world’s finest cashmere clothing. Although the Italian designer is best known for his sweaters, the Cucinelli collection has expanded over the years to include head-to-toe looks for women as well as men. Jackets, dresses, skirts, shirts, pants—all featuring the brand’s signature muted color palette, casual elegance and, of course, sublimely soft fabrics.

Linked in?

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spring/summer 2016

Wear your heart on your sleeve if you must, but on your cuff wear Tateossian. This brand, named for London-based entrepreneur Robert Tateossian lends a touch of luxury to smart dressers in 71 nations. “Luxury is all about excellence, uniqueness and integrity,” says Tateossian, who began his career as a financier but switched to designing jewelry and accessories. What graces the wrist may not be life’s most earthshaking issue, but since life is short, why not put a little imagination there? “The first cuff link I created was a nut and bolt in sterling silver,” Tateossian recalls. Today his designs feature skulls, clocks, thermometers, matchsticks, paper clips and interlocking gears. There’s even a bull-andbear pair and a miniature casino-style yes-and-no “decision maker”—amid hundreds of others. This decision’s an easy one. Stop in at Raleigh and “link in” with a bit of luxury.

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the raleigh guide The best of past and present

Creating a look that’s modern, fresh and bold needn’t mean abandoning the past. It can mean building on the past. Lanificio Zignone describes its made-in-Italy clothing line as “classic contemporary”—a reinterpretation of tradition. Now in its third generation, Zignone seeks to honor the past while making its product line fresh and current. It’s a strategy that’s working, as the company’s shirts and jackets create a look that has caught on with men on both sides of the pond. With product lines called Soul, Active and E-Motion, Zignone definitely projects a ’tude. Its ice cotton shirts are cool, calm and collected—just right for a 21st century Renaissance man who’s learned from the past, but is jetting into the future.

Ordinary it’s not

Do you want to follow the pack or do you want to lead? If it’s the latter, stop by Fishman Fine Jewelers, which opened last September at Carmel City Center. Continuing the 40-plus-year tradition of Gold Mine Jewelers, David and Dawn Fishman, a brother-and-sister team, create nearly all of their designs in-house. With a slogan of “when ordinary isn’t acceptable,” they offer high-end custom jewelry and “wearable art” pieces, along with a few select creations for the home. Their wearable art ranges from modern avant-garde to classic design. And it is, literally, art: David’s work has been shown in the Indianapolis Museum of Art. Their service, like their designs, is personalized and one-on-one. Why adorn yourself with a piece of mass-produced, look-alike jewelry when you can look like a leader?

The A–Z List Raleigh Limited Menswear features dozens of the world’s finest designer brands under one roof. See if you don’t find your favorites in the list below. Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love.

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Walk with heroes

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There are true heroes among us, and they don’t all hit baseballs or sing in rock bands. Some of them care for our parents and grandparents every day. At Hooverwood, a more than century-old nonprofit nursing facility that provides rehab and adult day care, the Hooverwood Guild is a group of 700-plus volunteers who donate their time. On June 5 the Guild is sponsoring an inaugural “Hoover Walk of Ages,” a one-mile, multi-generational walk through the facility’s campus in northwest Indianapolis. The walk will raise money to help care for residents and to publicize Hooverwood’s importance to the area. There will be music, refreshments, games, and a wheelchair and walker decorating contest. Residents, families, staff, directors and volunteers will gather to celebrate. Go to hooverwood.org to find out how you can participate in or sponsor the walk.

Agave Alberto Boglioli Bosca British Apparel Collection Brunello Cucinelli Canali Corneliani Culturata David Donahue Di Bello Donald J Pliner Eleventy Ermenegildo Zegna Eton Etro Eyebobs Gimo’s Gran Sasso Hickey Freeman Hiltl Incotex/Slowear Isaia JKT lanificio Zignone L.B.M. 1911 Left Coast Tee Luigi Bianchi Mantova Massimo Alba Meyer Pantherella USA Paul Betenly Paul & Shark Peter Millar Psycho Bunny PT01 Raffi Rag & Bone Robert Graham Robert Jensen Robert Talbott Salvatore Ferragamo Samuelsohn Sand Santo Stefano corneliani Sartore Stenströms Vince W. Kleinberg Zanella

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the raleigh guide The look of Eleventy

You can’t count to Eleventy, but it’s a brand you can count on. Born in Milan, Italy, in 2006 as a small line of polo shirts (with no logos), it has expanded and gained international prominence with collections of meticulously crafted, sophisticated yet understated apparel. “Customers with confidence do not need status logos,” founder Marco Baldessari has said. “The collection is about lifestyle rather than status.” New to the brand? Stop by Raleigh and let one of our sales associates introduce you to the refined fabrics, subdued palette and smart details that define Eleventy.

Mix it up in 2016

Color authority Pantone has “doubled down” this year, introducing for the first time twin “it” colors. The blending of powdery blue “Serenity” and “Rose Quartz,” a soft pink, has been chosen as the Color(s) of the Year. Traditionally used to symbolize male and female, this year’s selections transcend gender, as the cooler tranquil blue and the warmer rose tone have become true unisex colors. Rose Quartz conveys “compassion and a sense of composure,” says Pantone, while Serenity brings “feelings of respite and relaxation.” Together, the pastel pairing creates a sense of calm. Expect the soft hues to pop up in every 2016 collection for spring and summer—you’ll find them as solid tones as well as accent colors in sportcoats and jackets, ties and pocket squares, and polos and dress shirts. Wear both shades with confidence. These colors make a statement: They say you have style.

Ask Mr. Etiquette

Mark Koplow explains how to sail through life without giving offense. A friend invited me to a party I couldn’t attend. Sometime later, when I bumped into her in the grocery aisle, she was sore at me—not because I didn’t show up at the party, but because I never told her I wasn’t coming. Really? — Stumped in Speedway Yes, really. When an invitation says RSVP, you must respond. Accept or decline; don’t say “maybe,” and don’t be silent. And don’t give your answer at the last minute, or you’ll mess up the host’s planning. Stick to your word. The worst mistake of all is to say you’ll attend and then not show. This costs the host money and prevents your spot from being filled by some lonely heart. It may also cost you a friendship.

the art of crafts

trunk shows Trunk shows give you the opportunity to meet representatives and purchase items from some of your favorite brands. Join us!

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April 8: Boglioli

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April 20: Ermenegildo Zegna May: Brunello Cucinelli

If you order a beer in any respectable bar in America, the malted beverage you’re offered will likely have a name like “Mephistopheles Stout” or “Dead Guy Ale.” Chances are good it will have been brewed not in big steel vats in St. Louis but in small batches two towns over. Freestyle American craft beers made by small, independently owned breweries are the rage all across the U.S. You already know the fab four, but here are some obscure facts about each that you might not know: Lager Whoever coined the phrase “pop open a cold one” was probably drinking a lager, a name derived from the German word “lagern” meaning “to store.” Lagers are both processed and stored at low temperatures before they’re sold. Try Sierra Nevada’s Nooner Pilsner—chilled, of course. Pale Ale Something borrowed, something brewed. One of the most popular craft beer varieties in the U.S. today, pales actually date back to early1700s England. Back then, malts were roasted with coke (the fuel derived from coal, not the beverage). For a great American pale ale, pop open a Deschutes Brewery’s Mirror Pond Pale Ale and enjoy! Amber Call it the pursuit of hoppiness. Once synonymous with pale ale, amber made the jump to the next level when brewers in the early 1900s began to add more hops, a flowery and flavorful preservative, to their recipes. For a burst of flavor, be sure to try Tröegs Nugget Nectar. Stout You may feel full with this heavy brew, but you’re not drinking a day’s worth of calories. The average stout contains just one more calorie per ounce than most mainstream light beers. So go ahead and have another. Give Firestone Walker Brewing’s Velvet Merlin Oatmeal Stout a try.

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essentials

whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hot Now! Update your wardrobe with some of our favorite must-have pieces for spring and summer.

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If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re feeling blue, treat your feet to fancy footwear. Clockwise from left: leather espadrille and mesh loafers both by Donald J Pliner, suede loafers by Salvatore Ferragamo.

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Looking for the perfect combination? Mix and match Etonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colorful sport shirts and patterned silk ties.

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With the perfect fit and a large selection of shades and stripes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no wonder polos by Peter Millar are a warm-weather staple.

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on the run

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Spring/Summer 2016:

canali

With luxurious textures and smart silhouettes, this season’s offerings make the case for elegant nonchalance.

spring/summer 2016

child’s first glimpse into a kaleidoscope—like the first time he spins and makes himself dizzy—can be a mind-expanding moment of discovery. “I still remember the sense of wonder I felt,” says Milan-based designer Andrea Pompilio, now heading into his third year as creative consultant for Canali. That’s why he showed different-sized slow-mo videos within a fragmented kaleidoscope image as a backdrop at a recent Fashion Week as his models strode across the catwalk to show off the line’s spring/summer 2016 offerings for men. That way, people could appreciate the overall impact of each jacket, sportcoat, suit or other garment while also seeing Canali’s relentlessly meticulous attention to fine tailoring and detail. Indeed, this family company has been a synonym for tailor-made Italian luxury since it was launched in 1934. Today it boasts ultramodern manufacturing facilities and some 1,800 employees worldwide, but it remains the essence of what makes “Made in Italy” a cherished label. For Canali, the values of wearability and comfort are always in harmony with the ideals of top-quality materials and precise craftsmanship. The Canali man? He’s a creature of kaleidoscopically changing moods, as the images at left suggest. “He’s a free spirit, audacious and unconventional, who plays with a casual elegance rich in details and opulent textile fabrics,” Pompilio has said. There’s always room for whimsy, but never for the haphazard. And a constant emphasis on innovation keeps the brand’s vision fresh, as it surely is for this season.

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SURREALISM POP CONTEMPORARY

MODERNISM

SLEEP WI TH A MASTER.

Picasso believed “the purpose of art is washing the dust of daily life off our souls.” The Collection is a truly unique experience that will replenish your spirit and rejuvenate your daily life. Nestled inside the luxury of the Conrad Indianapolis, each of the suites immerses you in an environment of world-renowned art and exquisitely thoughtful details and amenities that will reignite your passion and replenish your soul.

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the muse

Great dame On stage and screen, actress Helen Mirren has been a trailblazing force for decades. No wonder we’re wowed by everything she does—or wears. By Lydia Keaton

each time. She’ll turn up in a leather jacket and funky gown, or go conventional—diamonds and beaded gowns with plunging necklines. No stranger to haute couture, she’s worn garments by Badgley Mischka, Elie Saab and Escada. Mirren can be playful. She went for shock and awe in 1997 by donning a feathered hat she called her “bird’s nest” to pick up her Golden Globe for Losing Chase—and again a few years later when she dyed her hair pink. And she’s been spotted on the New York subway in a fluffy grey coat and long purple gloves. Crimson lipstick is one fashion choice; another is the Native American tattoo on her left hand, a symbol meaning “equal but opposite.” And Mirren has allowed unretouched photos at her age because, well, it’s OK to be real. Her secret? Knowing what rocks her body and being comfortable in her skin. It’s fitting that in 2003 the actual Queen Elizabeth officially made her a dame. Indeed, there’s nothing like her.

Clockwise from top left: Actress Helen Mirren sports shimmering Chopard pearls at the Royal Opera House for the 2007 British Academy of Film and Television Arts Awards. She’s a sweet, sassy ingenue afloat in 1969. Forty years later she’s clad in white at the U.K. premiere of the political thriller State of Play , in which she played a savvy newspaper editor. In 1979 she appears in a corset to promote the film Caligula. That film, she told an interviewer, was the only one in which having to do a nude scene didn’t frighten her. “Everyone was naked in that,” she said.

spring/summer 2016

all any other actress “show business royalty” and it’s a dazzling compliment. Say that about Britain’s Helen Mirren, 70, and it’s like “of course!” She’s played queens on screen six times, and she’s the only actress to have won awards for portraying both Elizabeths—the Virgin Queen of Shakespeare’s time (in TV’s Elizabeth I) and the long-serving monarch of today (in the 2006 film The Queen). Born Helen Lydia Mironoff in London, Mirren has the kind of talent that makes any role a crowning achievement. But in private life she’s more quirky than queenly. On one movie set, she says herself, she was “a pain in the ass.” She’s admitted to past cocaine use and to a fondness for going to nude beaches. When she does wear clothes, though, people notice. We’re talking confident here—and unpredictable. Mirren wore the same elegant black floral Dolce & Gabbana midi dress on five separate red-carpet occasions, making a splash

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the cat’s meow

Think you know Jaguar? It’s time to re-think. The F-type S two-seater combines classic inspiration with a sassy new spirit. And in 2016 it comes in a 6-speed manual transmission, delighting those who still prize the art of driving.

hen Ian Callum was a kid in Scotland, he wrote to Jaguar seeking tips on becoming a car designer and got a reply advising him to study technical drawing. It took a few decades and a few other automotive stops along the way, but today he is Jag’s chief designer. This elegantly sculpted two-seater shows that he hasn’t forgotten the brand’s sporty tradition.

The ’16 is the first Jag sports car to use electric powerassisted steering (EPAS), controversial with driving purists. Company engineers believe it now outshines the hydraulic alternative (for example, it can be programmed to adapt to different ambient temperatures) without compromising that sports car feel.

The 3.0-liter engine boasts 380 horsepower at 6,500 rpm; it takes just 5.1 seconds to get from 0 to 60. And when you’re toodling to the gym, won’t it be secret fun to know that if the laws allowed, you could be getting there at 171 mph?

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Matte black and chrome exterior trim helps give this Jaguar its elegantly assertive look.

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There’s driver-selectable “active sport exhaust” with center-mounted dual exhaust pipes, just in case there’s any question about this beast’s authority on the road. Vr-rooom!

Customers used to pay extra for configurable dynamic controls (such as interior lighting with five color choices) and 14-way power seats, but this year they’re standard on the F-type S.

This year’s F-type features an upgraded “infotainment” system and an app that lets you simply tap your smartphone to operate locks, windows, remote start, climate control—and a beep-and-flash in case you’ve forgotten where you parked your Jag.

The S is impeccably dressed— right down to the floor with 19-inch Propeller alloy wheels. And thanks to the Jaguar highperformance braking system with black calipers, these wheels can stop almost on a shilling. A recent test put the 70 mph-to-zero braking space at less than 150 feet, competitive with the industry’s best.

Starting at:

$79,100

spring/summer 2016

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Note to self...

Stock up on the latest spring and summer fashions at Raleigh. Photography by Daniel Springston

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Navy windowpane sportcoat by Canali, pink sport shirt by Stenstrรถms, white trousers by Incotex, pocket square by Robert Talbott, navy suede loafers by Salvatore Ferragamo.

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Light blue suit by Corneliani, white dress shirt, patterned tie and green pocket square all by Robert Talbott, tan loafers by Salvatore Ferragamo.

spring/summer 2016

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Grey plaid suit by Samuelsohn, blue dress shirt and pocket square both by Eton, brown striped tie by Isaia, brown monk strap shoes by Donald J Pliner.

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Blue and grey plaid sportcoat and striped dress shirt both by Isaia, silk tie by Eton, pocket square by Robert Talbott, blue trousers by Incotex, tan suede loafers by Salvatore Ferragamo.

spring/summer 2016

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Black and white plaid sportcoat by Hickey Freeman, white dress shirt by Eton, grey silk tie by Isaia, pocket square and lapel flower both by Edward Armah, black trousers by Sartore, black loafers by Salvatore Ferragamo.

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Teal sportcoat and silk tie both by Ermenegildo Zegna, striped dress shirt by Isaia, pocket square by Robert Talbott, beige trousers by Incotex, woven tan loafers by Donald J Pliner.

spring/summer 2016

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in search of shanghai

Yes, it’s the top metropolis in the world’s busiest land. Did you know it also sparkles with history, culture, shopping and nightlife? By Everett Potter

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hen I first visited Shanghai in 1984, it was a cramped, backward-looking place still awakening from its long slumber under the reign of Chairman Mao. The hotels were musty, having for decades served mostly visiting Communist bureaucrats and diplomats. The Shanghai Museum of Art had dusty exhibit cases of antiquities, somnolent guards and few visitors. The streets were thronged with bicycles and the occasional VIP in a red-flagged limo. The old “concessions”—neighborhoods

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spring/summer 2016

By some measures the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most populous city, Shanghai, China, has been a key commercial hub for centuries, but only in recent decades has its architecture soared so dramatically. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the skyline at sunset.

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once administered by foreign powers—had been reduced to warrens of shambolic mansions in which dozens of families dwelt with clotheslines running out of windows. Memorably, I saw a jazz band of elderly Chinese gentlemen who played nightly at the venerable Peace Hotel along the Bund. (A bund is an embanked thoroughfare fronting a river.) The bar had hosted the likes of Charlie Chaplin and Noël Coward in the 1930s, and you could feel it. Was it the same city when I went back just last year? Well, yes and no. Shanghai is still a fascinating patchwork of China’s history, with many visible remnants of its imperial past and its expansion by the British more than 170 years ago as a base for selling opium to the natives. But today it styles itself “the City of the Future”—indeed, it’s a metropolis of futuristic towers filled with newly minted multimillionaires and conspicuous consumption of every brand name from Hermès to Ferrari. And the eight-minute ride on the magnetic-levitation train from the airport reaches 267 mph and makes you feel you’re rushing headlong into times unknown. The best place to bask in Shanghai’s 21st-century excess is the Pudong financial district, with as many skyscrapers as 20 Manhattans and a neon display that for sheer exuberance outshines Times Square. Structures such as the 1,380-foot Jin Mao Tower (finished in 1999) and the Shanghai World Financial Center (1,614 feet, 2008) were superseded last year by the 2,073-foot Shanghai Tower, the world’s second-tallest building. The symbol of this megacity, the 1,535-foot Oriental Pearl TV Tower, seems to be made from giant Tinkertoys. For young, rich Shanghai residents, luxe brands are the rule. You’ve got to wear Prada, drive a Mercedes and smoke Cuban cigars. Dior, Versace and Hugo Boss wares fill the upscale malls. Shanghai shopping is nonstop on the pedestrians-only Nanjing Road and the equally popular Huaihai Road. The good news for traditionalists like me is that the Old City still offers a veritable maze of lanes that are well worth exploring on foot, with small markets and glimpses of street life. So does nearby Yuanmingyuan Road, which has some wellpreserved turn-of-the-last-century buildings. Want to go further back? The Square Pagoda was built in the Song Dynasty, about 1,000 years ago. This grand cultural relic looks like a wedding cake; it’s surrounded by ancient buildings and gardens. The former French Concession is also home to Fuxing Park, where old men follow a Far East custom, This page, from top, a guest room and a lobby reception area at the Narada Boutique Hotel Shanghai Hongkou in a northern Shanghai neighborhood; a characteristic Shanghai contrast between old and new. Opposite, Shanghai’s Pudong financial district was an ambitious riverfront development project on the Huangpu River.

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bringing pet birds in bamboo cages to hang on tree branches to sing while the men smoke and gossip. What has changed most, perhaps, is the arts scene. The Shanghai Art Museum now has one of the world’s best collections of ancient bronzes, ceramics and calligraphy. The Rockbund Art Museum, a restored 1932 Art Deco building, is the place to go for strikingly fresh exhibitions. And the West Bund, becoming a world-class culture hub, includes an art center that is the site of an annual art fair, and the Yuz Museum, with contemporary works. The Long Museum West Bund was China’s largest private art museum when it debuted in 2014; this year, DreamWorks studio opens its $2.5 billion Shanghai DreamCenter, with an animation studio and an entertainment complex with performance venues. When it comes to dining in Shanghai, be sure to drink tea in the garden at the Ming Dynasty-era Guyuan Teahouse on Fuxing Zhong Lu in the French Concession. Cha’s Restaurant, a traditional cha chaan teng (tea eatery) is owned by a Hong Kong movie producer. Din Tai Fung offers some of the city’s best soup dumplings (xiaolong bao), with a delicate skin wrapped around a juicy pork or crab filling. Jia Jia Tang Bao, in the Huangpu District, also has great dumplings. Jishi is small and crowded but serves classic Shanghai food, from tofu skin with mushrooms (fuzhu) to sweet-and-sour spare ribs (tangcu paigu) and crab with vermicelli sheets (xiefen fenpi). At night, head to Shouning Lu, which has street food cooked on portable grills, food carts and the aromas of roast duck and crayfish. Post-dinner bar hopping is one of the best ways to get a handle on current Shanghai residents. The clubby rooftop Bar Rouge at Bund 18 is great for people watching. As for lodging, Shanghai has an ever-expanding roster of the world’s best luxury hotels, from Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong to Four Seasons Hotel Shanghai and The Peninsula Shanghai. I’m partial to the Park Hyatt Shanghai, an oasis of calm in a frenetic city. I also like Waterhouse at South Bund, a new 19-room boutique hotel in a former 1930s warehouse—and an antidote to high-rises. But I confess that my heart belongs to the old Peace Hotel along the Bund, now the completely redone Fairmont Peace Hotel. It’s sleek, sophisticated and modern, but luckily the management has restored the Jazz Bar, where a combo of Chinese gentlemen age 80 and up plays jazz standards nightly. Cocktail in hand, I can almost be persuaded—once again— that I’m back in the Shanghai of the ’30s. spring/summer 2016

This page, clockwise from top, Hokkaido sea urchin in a lobster jelly; fried pigeons on sticks at a market in Shanghai’s Qibao Old Town; barbecuing lamb skewers at the weekly Uyghur Street Market. Opposite, Michelin-starred chef Richard Ekkebus presides over Fifty 8° Grill at the Mandarin Oriental Pudong, Shanghai.

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Ready for everything Romantic getaway? Check. Weekend errands? Check. Let Raleigh fill all your sartorial needs. Photography by Daniel Springston

john craig | raleigh

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Pink sport shirt and white shorts both by Peter Millar, navy and red canvas belt by W. Kleinberg, brown driving shoes by Donald J Pliner.

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Beige wool jacket by Brunello Cucinelli, searsucker sport shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, white jeans by Rag & Bone, beige suede loafers by Salvatore Ferragamo.

spring/summer 2016

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| raleigh

Beige suede jacket by Eleventy, blue sport shirt by Sand, jeans by Agave, brown and beige sneakers by Donald J Pliner.

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Blue plaid shirt by Vince, grey trousers by Meyer, blue leather loafers by Donald J Pliner.

spring/summer 2016

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R E S I DE NT I A L

D E S I G N

Architectural Designer of the 2015 Dream Home

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3/25/16 12:53 PM

the sporting life

emerald greens

Golf has a Gaelic accent at Lahinch on Ireland’s windy west coast. Just don’t let that medieval castle ruin your game! By Michael Hiller

| raleigh

he world has plenty of good golf courses—usually big, sweeping swaths of land that hug coastlines, hike up rocky slopes, pierce clouds and creep through timber. But there aren’t a lot of great ones, the kind that grab you from the first hole, squeeze you in the middle and draw you in so deep you can’t imagine playing anywhere better. Lahinch is one of them. Lahinch Golf Club, a 124-year-old golf course on the southwest coast of Ireland, is among the world’s finest. And you don’t go to Lahinch to gamble in a casino, dine in the Michelin-star restaurant or lie on a sandy beach (even though it’s one of Ireland’s foremost surfing locations). You go hoping to find that quintessential Irish golf experience that swirls in the back of your mind: emerald green grasses, salty ocean spray and heavy clouds cracking open with drenching rains that soak deep into your bones and can only be warmed by a peat fire and old whiskey. Standing on the third tee box of the Old Course at Lahinch Golf Club

recently, the churning Atlantic over my left shoulder and the Number 2 green to my right, I found it easy to pretend that golf originated here, in Ireland, rather than in Scotland, a few hundred miles east across the Irish Sea. A 30 mile-anhour rainstorm whipped in off the ocean, first slapping my ball off its wooden tee, then batting the tee shot into knee-deep rough. I popped the ball back to the fairway on my second shot, where it bounced between uneven patches of turf and soil as if the course were a pachinko machine. I saved par with a punch shot to the left edge of the green, allowing the wind to nudge the ball close to the hole for a tap-in. The rain stopped when my foursome reached the par-5 fourth hole, a narrow fairway that threads to a green tucked directly behind a 35-foot-tall sand dune known as Klondyke Hill. A burly man stood atop the dune, directing traffic. When he waved his red flag, I hit. My approach shot had to fly over the dune then land softly on the other side. “Sorry, lad,” the flag man called to me as I hiked to the

green. “The wind got the best of it.” The par-3 fifth hole is no less of a challenge: a 154-yard blind shot to a sunken green surrounded by yet more tall dunes. “There’s an old Irish saying about golf,” says the innkeeper of the Vaughan Lodge, a popular hotel near the golf course. “It says, ‘There’s no links without the sea, and no golf without the wind.’ And no one knew this better than Old Tom Morris.” Morris, of course, was the original designer of the Old Course at Lahinch (he didn’t take all the credit— he said Lahinch was the finest natural links course he’d ever seen) and also of another classic: the Jubilee Course at St. Andrews in Scotland. By the time my group walked off the 18th hole, we were humbled, sodden, exhausted—yet eager to play it again. But that would have to wait because Lahinch is more than a one-horse town. Across the street from the Old Course lies the Castle Course, a shorter, flatter 18-hole sibling punctuated by the ruins of a 14thcentury castle. And we played that next.

Clockwise from top: The single remaining wall of Dough Castle (1306) provides a dramatic backdrop to the seventh hole on Lahinch’s Castle Course. Famous for golf since the 1890s, Lahinch also has become a popular international surfing destination. Goats have roamed across the links since the early 1900s and continue to be a source of amusement to visitors. Stunningly beautiful scenery is an added bonus. A traditional heavy-on-the-protein Irish breakfast is required before hitting the links. Consider yourself lucky if you get this close. The shorter Castle Course can serve as a warmup for its bigger sibling, the Old Course, across the road.

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spring/summer 2016

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Raleigh

stories: It’s not business as usual. These three pros shop Raleigh for versatility and value—plus personal service that’s second to none. Photography by Thomas Mueller

Keith Veal

Owner, Sustainable Solutions

continued

spring/summer 2016

consider myself fashion forward, and Raleigh is the only store that captures my essence. I think if you present yourself as having an eye for detail, it translates to how you perform in business as well. I want people I work with to see that in me from the moment they meet me to our final good-byes. I like to have pieces that are bold, with colors and patterns that make my outfit pop but are also versatile enough to be played down when paired with more subtle pieces. I love Isaia, and Raleigh always has a great selection of items by that designer. I bought a cashmere silk jacket that looks just as nice with a pair of khakis as it does with trousers, and I plan to pick up another one in a different color. What Raleigh does best is relationships. In my business, there’s also a lot of relationship building, so I recognize when it’s done well. Shopping there is both refreshing and fun. When I visit Raleigh, I’m like a kid in a candy shop.

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Ken Yerkes

Partner, Barnes & Thornburg

| raleigh

discovered Raleigh when I first moved to Indianapolis more than 30 years ago. Back then I was helped by Raleigh himself. Even after all these years, the personal service as well as the awareness of each customer’s individual style is still the same. For instance, they know that I travel often and need garments that won’t get wrinkled easily. Also the pieces I purchase need to be versatile enough to pair with several items so that I can travel with only one carry-on bag. They helped me pick out a pair of Ferragamo shoes that can be worn with both jeans and dress pants. The shopping experience is pleasant and uncomplicated. Once I was planning to attend a black-tie affair and I realized while on the road that I didn’t have anything appropriate to wear. I called David, explained my problem and gave him what I considered to be an unreasonable deadline. When I showed up, he had a few options of everything I needed laid out and waiting for me. I picked the tux, the shirt and cuff links and was done in 20 minutes. I’ve shopped at a lot of larger urban stores and nowhere else have I seen one—except perhaps in New York—that has both a high-end collection and a selection as versatile as Raleigh. It’s big-city shopping right here at home.

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Andy Schilling

Finance Director, Cummins

spring/summer 2016

hat I love most about Raleigh is the great service I’ve gotten there for some 20 years. I usually work with Gerry, who knows not only what I like to wear, but also everything I have in my closet. Once I referenced a jacket I had bought about four years before and he knew what I was talking about. I don’t know how he does it—he just has a catalog in his brain. And it’s great for me because when he’s helping me pick out items, he tells me how to pair them with clothing I already own. He thinks of combinations I would never put together, and they always look amazing. He also knows my style so well that he is aware of where my boundaries are and helps me push them a bit. The selection of highquality clothing, like Ermenegildo Zegna, Samuelsohn and Incotex, is outstanding, but it’s really the sales reps’ impeccable memory and service that keeps me coming back. I moved away from the Indianapolis area for six years, and when I returned to visit family, I stopped into Raleigh several times, and they always remembered me by name. It was like I never left.

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spirits

Artisanal agave In honor of National Tequila Day, July 24, we serve up a half-dozen of the top tequilas in the world. Salud! By Virginie Boone

here’s one drink with an eponymous anthem all its own: tequila. Recorded by the Champs in 1958—a time when this liquor was barely available in the U.S.—the sax-driven instrumental with the random yelps of “tequila!” seeped into brain cells as powerfully as a stiff drink. Back then Jose Cuervo was just about the only brand known. How things have changed!

Tequila Ley .925 Ultra Premium Extra Añejo Pasión Azteca It’s the bottle, not the tequila inside, that drives the price of Ley .925. The Diamond Sterling Bottle (or La Ley del Diamante), which boasts 4,000 diamonds set in a five-pound platinum bottle designed by Mexican artist Fernando Altamirano, fetches $3.5 million. A more reasonable option offered by the distiller, Hacienda La Capilla: the $225,000 version pictured, which is handcrafted in gold and pure platinum. Only 33 bottles were made, and each comes encased in a leather box with a series of pictures of the original Pasión Azteca by Mexican painter Alejandro Gomez Oropeza.

Gran Patrón Platinum Silver Tequila Among the producer’s higher-end offerings, triple-distilled and aged in oak to become both smooth and full-bodied, this is a remarkably citrus-tinged drink, with bursts of fresh agave and black pepper. Each bottle is crafted from crystal and hand-numbered, cradled in an elegant black case. It is a sultry sipping tequila priced at $195.

spring/summer 2016

Partida Elegante Extra Añejo Gran Reserva The top of Partida’s line, priced at $350 a bottle and limited in production, Elegante is aged a minimum of 40 months in American oak. Complex and velvety, it combines brooding layers of black pepper, toasted oak and dark chocolate around a persistence of almond, caramel, vanilla and coffee. It even suggests the undeniable goodness of maple butter and bourbon. Handcrafted, with each bottle numbered, it comes with a crystal decanter stopper and a sterling silver charm (called the Partida Tequila Spirit Bird) around the bottle’s neck. It makes an impressive gift.

Now there’s no drink that’s hotter; nearly 14 million cases of tequila were sold nationally in 2014, and sales keep climbing at an average yearly rate of 5.6 percent. Some of that growth has been powered by the priciest bottles—pure artisanal versions with price tags upwards of $300. Tequila is made from agave azul tequilana Weber, or blue agave, a Mexican plant with ties to the lily family that can take from eight to 10

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spirits

years to mature. (Mezcal, on the other hand, can be made from more than 30 varieties of agave, including blue agave.) Just as bubbly must come from the Champagne region of France to officially be called Champagne, tequila must be produced in specific areas of Mexico. The spiky succulent is grown primarily in Jalisco, but the official tequila region extends into parts of four adjoining states. To make tequila, the pineapple-shaped piñas (hearts) of the agave plant are harvested by hand with a machete-like knife, cleaned and cut into pieces, then slowly baked, a process that extracts the sweet agave juice, converting its starches into sugars. The piñas are then mashed to separate the juice from the pulp, and the juice is mixed with yeast and fermented into alcohol. Water is used to cut the distillate to about 80 proof. Classifications have to do with how long the tequila is aged. Blanco or white tequila isn’t aged at all; reposado (which means “restful”) spends at least two months in oak; añejo (Spanish for “mature”) is wood-aged for a year or more; and extra añejo (a new classification added in 2006) is barrel-aged for more than three years. Since blanco never touches oak, it

Casamigos Reposado Yes, this is George Clooney’s tequila, a partnership with friends Rande Gerber and Mike Meldman. More importantly, it’s a damn fine, small-batch, entirely legit tequila, made by a master distiller in Jalisco. The Casamigos team slow-cooks its piñas for three days and gives it an extra slow fermentation as well, looking to further capture the purity and intrigue of the plant. It’s then aged in American oak. The reposado ($50) is a caramel-laden and smoothly textured quaff that will go down easy after dinner, on the rocks, finishing with a hit of cinnamon stick that lingers on the tongue. No salt or lime required.

Herradura Selección Suprema Extra Añejo This caramel-colored concoction ($350) comes entirely from the Casa Herradura estate in Jalisco, the piñas cooked for 26 hours in stone and brick ovens. This is when the plants become dark orange in color and give off an intensely sweet aroma and flavor. After fermentation, the tequila is aged in Kentucky bourbon barrels for four years. Upon release it becomes a celebration of vanilla, crème caramel and apple pie, with additional seasonings of citrus and allspice. Enjoy over ice.

| raleigh

Rey Sol Extra-Aged Añejo Double-distilled and then aged six years in French oak barrels by Tequila San Matías de Jalisco, this dark-hued tequila in a smiling-face bottle (designed by Mexican artist Sergio Bustamante) carries a $250 price tag. The aging lends a smoothness that’s deliciously sublime on the palate, with a taste of chocolate and hazelnut. It’s hearty enough to stand up to red meat—or serve it as an accompaniment to dessert and coffee.

delivers the purest notes of agave, while añejo features deeper, woodier, tannic notes layered over the agave. All of the varieties have a place in mixology—or can be sipped straight. For a long while, the only brands available in the U.S. were adulterated “mixto” tequilas, which could contain up to 49 percent non-agave sugars—the kind more likely to give you a nasty headache the next day. (Remember those tequila-fueled nights in college? You were probably drinking mixto.) In the 1950s, singer and actor Bing Crosby and his buddy Phil Harris, both of whom knew their way around a tequila bottle, started their own import company specifically to bring in Herradura, a 100 percent blue agave tequila they discovered on a trip to Mexico. It would be the only “pure” tequila available north of that nation for the next few decades, positioned as a sipping tequila rather than a cocktail ingredient. Read about Herradura’s extra añejo at right below—along with five other standout tequilas on these pages. They are all, of course, made with 100 percent blue agave.

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the service directory

Raleigh Personal Service As a family-owned business, we take a lot of pride in everything we do at Raleigh. We have the finest sales professionals that you will find anywhere, and our experienced tailoring staff works diligently to make sure that you look great. Our commitment to our customers goes beyond the sale. Service impacts every part of our business, and our goal is to constantly exceed your expectations. Here are some of the things we do to take care of you. Of course, special requests are always welcome!

expertise A central part of the Raleigh Experience is superlative service in a relaxed atmosphere. If you want to browse in private, you’re more than welcome. When you need expert, individual attention, you’ll get it—instantly and for as long as you want. Our knowledgeable staff is well versed in all of the brands we carry, the trends of the season and how to fit every body type. They stand ready to advise you on all matters of wardrobe and accessories.

Delivery We understand that sometimes it’s a challenge to get to the store to pick up your alterations. Just let us know when and where, and we’ll be happy to deliver them to you.

shopping by appointment

Special Orders

Sometimes it’s hard to part with old friends. We can help. When you shop for your new seasonal wardrobe, our sales associates will come to your home and let you know which items are worn or out of style, and suggest how to coordinate your existing clothes with new additions. We’ll even take your old clothes and donate them to a local charity on your behalf.

Whether it’s a suit, sportcoat or a pair of shoes, if you can’t find what you’re looking for, just let us know. We’ll do our best to find it from one of our many resources.

tailor shop Our on-site tailor shop is at your disposal for alterations to your Raleigh purchases. We provide sameday service when necessary and can usually handle minor alterations while you wait. The same goes for emergency repairs and routine wardrobe maintenance, such as tightening loose buttons: Bring the garment in, and we’ll fix that button on the spot.

Raleigh gift cards A Raleigh Gift Card guarantees your gift will be the perfect style, size and color. Purchase a gift card at the store in any denomination you choose for a remembrance that will dazzle any lucky recipient.

made-tomeasure service Our Made-to-Measure service takes advantage of the relationships we have established with Italian manufacturers to deliver a suit that is smart and sexy—and a good value— in just four to six weeks. You won’t find a better plan to look your best.

coffee bar Like any gracious host, we always offer our guests something to drink. The Lavazza Bar is the perfect place to relax, reflect and enjoy coffee, espresso, cappuccino or a cool drink in between trips to the dressing room. Keep up with the latest scores on our flat screen. Need to charge your iPhone or iPad? No problem. We’ve got all the bases covered.

Picture This Sure, all of your new clothes look great at the store, but sometimes, once you get home, it’s hard to remember what goes with what. Just ask and we’ll be happy to photograph your ensembles.

| raleigh

If our store hours don’t fit your schedule, call us. If you’re a morning person who finds 7 a.m. the ideal time for your Raleigh Experience, we will arrange to be here. Shopping by appointment allows us to give you the personal attention and shopping time you need, when your schedule permits.

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GROOMING

You... only better Are those forehead creases and under-eye bags getting you down? No worries. There’s an “injectable” for just about everything. Forehead: Wrinkle relaxers—Botox, Dysport, Xeomin— block the release of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine, “freezing” muscles and temporarily reducing the appearance of crinkles and creases. To maintain your smooth new look, repeat the procedure every four to six months. Between eyebrows: Botox and its cousins also are the injectables of choice for lessening vertical frown lines ’tween the brows—as well as crow’s feet. Results last about six months.

Under eyes: Hyaluronic acid fillers like Juvéderm or Restylane are often used to fix the furrows that can come with aging, and their effects last six months to a year. Cheeks: Voluma from Juvéderm, another hyaluronic acid filler, restores contour around the cheekbones in a matter of minutes. Added bonus: You won’t need another injection for two years. Around the mouth: Juvéderm, Restylane and Radiesse are all effective at softening “smile lines” (a.k.a. nasolabial folds). Radiesse lasts the longest of the three—a year or more. Another option is the collagen filler Bellafill. And here’s something to smile about: Its effects can last up to five years.

Neck: A relatively new injectable called Kybella has recently been approved by the FDA for treating double chins. One caveat: It can cause an uneven-looking result. A long-lasting improvement is hoped for, but time will tell.

What price, vanity?

| raleigh

Neuromodulators (Botox, Xeomin, Dysport) Price: $400 per area Hyaluronic Acid Fillers (Restylane, Juvéderm) Price: $500 to $800 per syringe Volumizers (Voluma) Price: $800 to $1,200 per syringe Kybella Price: $1,000 and up per treatment

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