THE GOOD LIFE
Smart sartorial choices that make you look and feel your best The season’s best styles for a night out or black-tie event—and everything in between
Smart sartorial choices that make you look and feel your best The season’s best styles for a night out or black-tie event—and everything in between
here since 1922 | 24 Shaia’s has been tailored to the needs of our customers for more than 100 years.
in the mood | 26
Ready for cooler weather? Aren’t we all? Fall is that time when we rediscover old favorites and find new classics to embrace for many seasons to come.
our big year | 52 We had a really good time.
Quality and timeless style— clothing to reflect a man’s sensibility, for any occasion.
p. 40
ON THE COVER:
Give your joggers a lift with this version
suiting wool from Eleventy. The double-breasted swacket, also from Eleventy, has fireside elegance. Shirt from Stenströms
Rubirosa.
Memo | 10
It’s been 100 years of family, fun and fashion.
The shaia’s Guide | 13 Good grooming...house calls...shoes that last a lifetime...and more.
it’s in the jeans | 36 Feeling blue over finding perfect denim? Let Shaia’s go to work for you—knowing pants is in our blood.
black tie is back | 50
Formal events have been restored to the agenda. Be sure your tux is ready for all those save-the-dates.
shirt tales | 56
Your style. Your comfort. Your exact fit. Made-to-measure is a shirt story that always has a happy ending.
If you spend any time around the Shaia family, you’ll know that we are natural storytellers. I have to believe that it comes from my great-grandfather, S.G. Shaia, who started our family’s business. In his early days, before he settled in Homewood, he walked the county with his store in the 100-pound pack on his back. He told stories, so many stories. In 1922, he gave up his wandering ways and settled in the very spot where Shaia’s sits today.
Most of you know now that my father, J.L., spent his entire career in our family business. The stories he tells about working with his grandfather, father and brother Leo, about building a business and serving people in such a way that they become more than customers—they become lifelong friends.
When I was growing up, those stories, for me, were our family history. The characters, our family, our employees, our customers, our vendors, all became family in my mind. That’s the world I grew up in. Going to market with my father when I was 17. Working and learning every day from my father and my uncle. Meeting so many designers and experts who later become legends in the industry.
Malcolm Gladwell, in his book Outliers: The Story of Success , wrote that “Who we are cannot be separated from where we’re from.”
Of course, our business has changed. We were many things before we became one of the most noted men’s clothing stores in the country. Something my father taught me many years ago is still true today: Quality has no fear of time . But what he taught me had nothing to do with well-made clothing—it had everything to do with living a life of quality. Dad was honored by MR magazine with its 2022 Lifetime Achievement Award. And I promise you, our family will be telling his stories for many generations to come. — Ken Shaia
2818 18TH STREET SOUTH HOMEWOOD, AL 35209 205-871-1312 WWW.SHAIAS.COM
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Editor in chief RITA GUARNA
creative Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO art director SUSAN DENDY
Senior Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS
Lifestyle editor HALEY LONGMAN
Contributing photographers BECKY LUIGART-STAYNER, ART MERIPOL, CHRIS LUKER, MARY FEHR
Photo styling FONDA SHAIA
Publisher LIZETTE CHIN
Associate Publisher CHARLES GARONE
director of operations CATHERINE ROSARIO director of Advertising Services
JACQUELYNN FISCHER
Production manager FERN MESHULAM
Production Artist CHRIS FERRANTE
Accounting KASIE CARLETON, URSZULA JANECZKO, STEVEN RESNICK
PUBLISHED BY
Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN
President & CEO MARK DOWDEN
Senior Vice Presidents RITA GUARNA, CARL OLSEN
Vice Presidents LIZETTE CHIN, NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, COLEMAN MCCARTAN, BELINDA PINA, MARIA REGAN, STEVEN RESNICK, DIANE VOJCANIN
SHAIA’S Magazine is published by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Dr., Park Ridge, NJ 07656, in association with
Copyright © 2022 by Wainscot
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Our obsession is curating the most inter esting, unique and highest quality brands we can find to fill the store. In doing so, we are lucky enough to travel to some of the world’s most remarkable cities. In remarkable cities, you find remarkable bazaars, thrift stores and estate sales. And when you’re Lebanese by blood, a love of all things old-world tends to be innate. We get great joy in bringing our travels back home with us in the form of delightful small gift items for men and women. It’s special to share those trinkets, and the stories they carry, with our cus tomers. Whether it’s vintage jewelry, small leather goods or an tique furniture, there’s a little bit of some thing for everyone.
We strive to offer our customers unmatched quality and elegance. Famous American interior de signer Miles Redd was believed to have said, “Buy the best and only cry once.” The spirit is the idea being that if you buy wellmade items, you’ll never have to replace them. We couldn’t agree more!
We want the pieces you get from Shaia’s to become generational heirlooms that make their way down from father to son to grandson (the same way our store has). Since men’s footwear styles change slowly, a handmade Italian dress shoe is one of those items that, with a little TLC, will last a lifetime.
We offer sophisticated options from some of the world’s best craftsmen: Bontoni, DiBianco and Santoni.
For much of Shaia’s history, men wore tailored clothing as part of their daily life. They put on jackets, ties and an odd trouser, if not a full suit, every day. They wore it for myriads of occasions like Saturday foot ball, Sunday church, dates to the movies and...wait for it even air travel. Anyone that has flown recently knows those days have long-since faded into the jet stream.
As the post-pandemic breadth and depth of ready-made tailored clothing inventories have diminished across the industry, the opportunity for doing more made-to-measure (MTM) has increased. Whether you’re a difficult fit or just have a specific vision to create, MTM allows you to customize style, fabric and fit. Make an appointment to come get fitted and peruse our deep library of swatches, and choose from some of the world’s most renowned makers—Trussini, Zegna, Cucinelli, Canali, Isaia and Mauro Blasi.
Turn around times from Italy are typically four to 10 weeks depending on the maker—so plan accordingly!
BONTONI HANDMADE WINGTIPSWhat do you love most about retail sales? I love to serve people and it satisfies my creativity.
Do you have a prized pos session piece of clothing?
Two old favorites. The first is a fedora—a hat that belonged to my grandfather. It came from Blach’s, at that time the depart ment store in Birmingham, housing the men’s department that my family aspired to. The second is a pair of hand made alligator shoes my wife and I found in a local antique store. The shoes are more than 40 years old, but barely worn, which tells me the owner wore them as I do, for very special oc casions. My wife has taught me her love of “junkin” is all about the hunt, and these shoes were an amazing find.
Who did you grow up admiring sartorially when you were younger? My grand father, A.J. Shaia, Clark Gable and old Western actors like Buck Jones, Gary Cooper and Dale Robertson.
For many of our customers, Shaia's is to them what the Cheers bar was to Norm and Cliff and the gang. What’s your third place? As a teen ager, my father had me at the store five days a week—at that time, it was a very quiet environ ment—classical music, etc. As
I took on more responsibility, I set out to create a more relaxed environment—one I wanted to be in. I like parties, music, people, and Shaia’s has become a place where people want to hang out and/or shop in. Is it my Cheers bar?
What’s one thing guys don’t think about much but need in their wardrobe? Formal wear. Guys tend to wait until the last minute and then have to scramble to put it together.
What has the pandemic changed about the way your customers shop? During the pandemic, people spent a lot of time scrolling through merchan dise online, which eventually beomes boring and repetitious. I think they have realized they appreciate shopping in a fun and knowledgeable environment in a well-curated store—while having a drink, good music and excellent personal service.
Will the necktie make a comeback? 100%. We see it every day. The original neck tie—the cravat—was originally created to wear into battle—the knot protected the throat. It rep resents service and masculinity.
What would you like to see in the next 100 years from Shaia's? To continue to “tailor our business to the needs of our community.”
With Shaia’s Medical Heritage, we bring physicians the same exacting craftsmanship that has defined Shaia’s clothing for generations. The process of creating our medi cal coats was long and careful to ensure that every aspect represented a physician's achievements in a stylish way. Ken studied the coats of dozens of physicians to under stand the wear they endure over the years of use. Unlike most physicians’ coats, ours is constructed on a suiting jacket pattern, as opposed to a shirt pattern. That, along with the Italian stretch-cotton fabric we use, allows for maximum comfort and ease of wear. The subtle detailing of the buttons, pockets and more make it truly special.
Do you have a prized posses sion piece of clothing, or a Holy Grail piece you’re yet to obtain? My Holy Grail piece is a navy peacoat. I’ve always wanted one.
Who did you grow up admir ing sartorially when you were younger? My father. He was always well-dressed. When we would go places, people always complimented the way he looked.
For many of our customers Shaia's is to them what the Cheers bar was to Norm and Cliff and the gang. What’s your third place? My Cheers is my patio in comfortable sweats with my two French bulldogs and my partner. That’s my “happy hour.”
What’s one thing guys don’t think about as much but need in their wardrobe? Clothes that fit!
Where’s your favorite place to grab a bite and drink on your off day? Anywhere with
my partner, Scott. Preferably outdoors, if weather permits.
What has the pandemic changed about the way your customers shop? There was a lot of weight fluctuation during the pandemic, so customer needs have changed. With people returning to the work place, I’m starting to see people wanting to look better.
Will the necktie make a comeback? Hopefully it never left, but I’m seeing an increase in tie sales.
What would you like to see in the next 100 years from Shaia's? A generation who loves clothes as much as I did. And a continued dedication to customer service. That, to me, has been Shaia’s benchmark.
Greg Flowers is not only a member of the Shaia’s family—he’s a mainstay in Birmingham retail. He spent several years at the local powerhouse Parisian before joining the Shaia’s team a quarter-century ago. He’s a consum mate service professional with an innate talent for merchandising. He brings a calming balance to the Shaia’s force.
One of our most popular services is our closet consul tations. We schedule a time to make a house call to assess your clothing. We will highlight the good, cull the bad, organize what’s left, and then help pinpoint your needs in order to help build the perfect wardrobe for your lifestyle.
We also love helping our customers remodel, or design from scratch, a closet that maximizes functionality and fashion. Reach out to us and schedule your in-home visit.
A properly designed closet can make getting ready for a trip much easier. So, as an extension of our closet consultation, we teach a master class in packing. It’s not just a guide on what to pack for your destination, but also how to pack your things appropriately and efficiently. But it’s all for naught if you don’t have great luggage to put it in. That’s why we offer a variety of sizes, styles and materials to accommodate everyone from weekend warriors to the diamond level frequent travelers.
What do you love most about retail sales? It’s a real blessing to dress the men in our community for their big mo ments: weddings, job interviews and other special occasions. Getting to see the confidence boost a great outfit can bring them is hard to beat. They’re also the real movers and shakers of Birmingham, so we serve some wonderful people.
Do you have a prized pos session piece of clothing?
An embroidered pocket square my wife gave me. I’d run into a burning building for it. And if I can’t find it, she’ll tell you, I’ll rip the house apart looking for it.
Who did you grow up admiring sartorially when you were younger? I’ve had a plethora of styles over the years. My heroes growing up were hair metal rockers. But then eventu ally it became anything Ralph did. Polo was my gateway drug to menswear. So, it’s cool to work at the store that intro duced Polo to the Southeast.
For many of our customers Shaia's is to them what the Cheers bar was to Norm and Cliff and the gang. What’s your third place?
I’m like Norm – I love a good bar. Give me a dive bar, or a classic honky-tonk. Except Birmingham doesn’t have the latter, sadly. I also love a good bookstore; Little Professor down the street is great.
What’s one thing guys don’t think about much, but need in their wardrobe? A great navy blazer. Not the gold button
country club variety your dad used to wear, but something more streamlined with an interesting texture. It’s not the most fun answer but it’s the right answer!
Where’s your favorite place to grab a bite and drink on your off day? The Garage Café is one of my favorite spots. Great sandwiches and cold beer. It’s a little slice of analog in a digital world so bring paper money. Cash only!
What has the pandemic changed about the way your customers shop? They’re trying to make sense of casual wear – especially the guys that have been in conservative industries where suit/tie was de rigueur. They need help on how to wear things like five-pockets, sport shirts and sneakers in a dressier way.
Will the necktie make a comeback? I believe so. I think masculinity will make a come back. The pendulum has swung away from championing for viril ity. But it will swing back and there is no better way to project a quiet, confident, masculinity than a beautiful, well-crafted necktie. It’s quintessentially masculine.
What would you like to see in the next 100 years from Shaia's? One hundred years is a testament to doing things well. I hope to be a part of perpetuat ing that tradition. I also hope we’re the harbinger for men dressing in a more sophisticated way again–the way Shaia’s was for generations past.
It’s one thing to sell the most beautiful garments menswear has to offer, but men rarely come in a “one-size-fits-all” box. That’s where our tremendous team of tailors and pattern-makers comes in. With 180 years of tailoring experience between them, they’re the secret sauce that keeps our customers looking their best time and time again.
Shaia’s is proud to feature these designer brands! Visit us to find your favorites and discover new collections, from Assaraf to Zegna.
TAILORED COLLECTIONS MAURO BLASI ISAIA ZEGNA CANALI BRUNO CUCINELLI TRUSSINI GABO SAMUELSOHN BONTONI
SHOES OFFICINE CREATIVE DI BIANCO ANDREA VENTURA COMMON PROJECTS RUBIROSA ON RUNNING MAGNANNI SANTONI BONTONI ZEGNA FABIANO RICCI DOUCAL'S
SPORTSWEAR COLLECTIONS ELEVENTY LUCIANO BARBERA FEDELI INIS MEAIN BELSTAFF FINAMORE CORNELIANI LUIGI BIANCHI MANTOVA FAHERTY PETER MILLAR GIMO'S HERNO LARDINI MAURIZIO BALDASSARI RELWEN W. KLEINBERG PATRICK ASSARAF BOGLIOLI COTTON CITIZEN WATERVILLE VELVET SOL ANGELES VUORI TRIP IN A BAG FRADI JAMES PERSE BORGO ORDEAN STENSTRÖMS GIANNETTO CALDER MANTO LORO PIANA
DRESS AND CASUAL PANTS PTO1 PESCAROLO BALLIN MEYER MASON’S DENIM FRAME CITIZEN PT05 BRAX S.M.N. JACOB COHEN DL1961 TELERIA
Whether you’re eloping for a mountainside wedding with just your priest and your bride and need an autumnal palette that stands up to the scenery (we’ve dressed that) or throwing the Gatsby-esque black tie nuptials to end all nuptials and need to kit all your groomsmen in tuxedos (we’ve done that too)…or something somewhere in be tween…Shaia’s has you covered.
The countless moving parts to wedding planning can make even the simplest decisions seem as easy as trying to drink from a fire hose. But what you wear doesn’t have to be over whelming. We have decades of experience dressing men for their big day, so we know how to help you avoid the sarto rial pitfalls concomitant with wedding day attire.
If your big day is approaching, consider scheduling a time to come see us in the shop. We love being a part of your special day. We’ll pop a bottle of bubbly with you and your fiancé at the “big round table” and figure out how to turn your wedding-day dreams into your wedding-day reality.
FOR WEDDING PARTY APPOINTMENTS, CALL HANNAH AT 205-871-1312
Our neighborhood of Home wood, Alabama is the type of place storytellers come to get inspired. The streets are busy, the restaurants are full, and the shops are bus tling. The sights and sounds are a constant concerto of commerce. Developers try to recreate versions of Home wood’s main drag all over the country, but ours is the real thing.
There’s something for everyone in our village. Our street has great shops for women, unrivaled toy/hobby stores, a fantastic bookstore, tremendous furniture deal
ers, a James Beard award nominated chef, remarkable dining experiences, and so much more. With a multi tude of caffeine options, it’s also a coffee connoisseur’s paradise.
And then there’s us, Shaia’s. We’re a 100-year-old drygoods store turned pur veyor of upscale menswear. Anyone who has seen Pretty Woman knows high-end retail has long been stigma tized as pretentious and ar rogant. In fairness, for some stores, that critique is accu rate. But if you’ve set foot in Shaia’s in our ten decades on
the block, we know you can attest that some stigmas are meant to be broken.
Our space is an amalgama tion of lively personalities, upbeat music, and great clothes. We’ve worked hard to curate the most unique antique furniture and fixtures in lieu of the standard racks people are accustomed to seeing in retail stores. We
hope you agree that the result is a warm, family (and pet) friendly atmosphere that might as well be an extension of our home. Heck, it is an ex tension of our home since a lot of the furniture at some point actually was in our home.
We try to make every visit to our store a great experi ence whether you need a pair of jeans, a handmade suit,
or just want to see what’s new. Each person who walks through our doors is a potential opportunity to make a mean ingful connection. No matter if you’re a life-long regular or an out-of-town first-timer, we’d be honored to see you!
We’re just a quick trip from metropolitan areas like Hunts ville, Montgomery, Nashville and Atlanta.
My grandfather, S.G. Shaia, was a remarkable man. At the age of 16, an orphan with no formal education, he came to America from Leba non with only $10 in his pocket. He eventually made his way to Nashville where he married. In 1905, S.G. moved to Birmingham and began peddling, carrying a large, very heavy pack on his back full of notions and household goods. With so few businesses
1896 Sixteen-yearold S.G. Shaia arrives at Ellis Island from Lebanon, speaking no English. He makes his way to Nashville, where he begins peddling notions and household goods from a backpack.
1905 S.G. moves to the Southside of Birmingham with his new wife, Badia, and continues selling his wares throughout Jefferson, Shelby and Walker counties– traveling by foot, train and wagon.
in outlying areas, peddling was a way to get the merchandise to the customer. You might call it the first door-to-door salesperson. In 1921, he bought four lots south of Birmingham down a dirt road that would eventually become the city of Homewood.
He built a store and a home next door and estab lished a garden of figs and grapevines on the very lot where the present day Shaia’s stands.
S.G.’s wife, Badia, along with their two sons George and Alex (A.J.), ran the store while S.G.
continued his peddling. Badia was a very bright, hardworking woman, whose business traits and welcom ing personality played a large part in my grandfa ther’s early success with the store. The first business license lists “bottle drinks and cigarettes.” There was no drug store or grocery on Shaia’s side of the moun tain, so they offered the goods that their neighbors needed—establishing, in a modest way, our long tradition of customer service.
George would do the books while Alex helped out
1921-22 S.G. buys four lots in what is now down town Homewood for $500 each. He moves his family out to the “boondocks” and builds his new store and his home right beside it. Badia runs the store and S.G. con tinues peddling with a 100-pound pack on his back until about 1930.
Shaia’s has been tailored to the needs of our customers for more than 100 years.
by J.L. Shaia1933 S.G.’s son A.J. takes over the store, now known as Shaia’s Dry Goods, specializing in apparel for the entire family. 1930-40s The store caters to the needs of the community, which originally had no grocery or drugstore, offering everything from toothpaste to work clothes. We’ve been on 18th Street in Homewood for 100 years now—the photo above shows the famous 18th Street “Curve” in the 40s, when Homewood was growing.
running the business. George went to work with the Southern Railroad and would eventually become building inspector for the city of Homewood, serv ing in that capacity for 20 years.
My grandmother died in 1931 and my father, Alex, took over the store in 1933, guiding it through the Great Depression and World War II. He contin ued to improve the merchandise selection, eventu ally becoming a “junior department store.”
In 1955, Shaia’s moved two doors down the street to our present location, and at that time I joined the business. In 1958, my younger brother Leo joined the business. He and I soon realized that the age of specialization was fast approaching and the days of a junior department store were numbered.
We had always wanted a men’s store, and this was our opportunity. Although this was a major depar ture from the merchandise we had traditionally sold, our father believed in us, and in July of 1963 we shut the business down for a few weeks, completely re modeled and opened back up as a men’s specialty clothing business.
But the going was not easy for us, as there were several very good men’s shops in Birmingham and we were the “new kid on the block.” There were certain brands then that were critically important to establish us as a quality store, but these were being sold to other stores and not available to us. To sur vive, we had to find unknown, but similarly highquality brands.
We were able to do so, but we got our biggest break when we discovered an up-and-coming new designer by the name of Ralph Lauren and his Polo brand. This was about 1972, and for the next seven or eight years Shaia’s had the brand exclusive in Bir mingham. Now, all the big names were coming to us and we were on our way.
In 1982, we took over the building next door to us on the north side. This allowed us to expand all areas of merchandise and to now have a complete shoe department.
In addition, we installed a fully-staffed alterations department. The benefits of this addition were many and come back to our commitment to customer ser vice. Not many smaller men’s stores have the benefit of an in-house alterations department and the ser vice it allows you to give your customers…whether it’s putting the finishing touches to a new made-tomeasure suit or an emergency hem job for someone in need.
In 1986, the fourth generation of Shaia’s, my son Ken joined the business, and soon he was adding his energy and sartorial taste to the mix. During this period of time we began to add more brands and European designers to give the store more of an international flavor.
In the early 2000s, because of our growing na tional reputation, the store began to receive some recognition. Esquire magazine listed us as one of The Best Men’s Stores in America. MR magazine named us one of the 25 Most Exciting Men’s Stores in America, and the Alabama Retail Association gave us its Gold Award.
1960-80s A.J.’s sons, J.L. and Leo, transform Shaia’s into an upscale spe cialty store—introducing international menswear labels to Birmingham, and taking a chance on young unknown designers— such as Ralph Lauren and Ermenegildo Zegna.
1950-70s In 1955, the Shaias move their “junior department store,” offering everything from dress patterns to hiking boots, two doors down to their present location, where it’s still a fixture in the local business community and the neighborhood—like Homewood baseball!
1990-2000s Shaia’s continues to introduce new designers such as Gravati, Canali, Luciano Barbera, Isaia, Hiltl/Gardeur, John Varvatos and Boglioli– giving the traditional Southern store an international flavor, and expanding made-to-measure services from brands such as Zegna and Trussini.
In 2015, brother Leo retired, and in 2020 I stepped back from the day-to-day management, so the busi ness is now in Ken’s very capable hands.
We have always tried to make the store itself warm and inviting, and it would be wrong to tell our story without mentioning three local architects who made their mark on Shaia’s. First would be the late Fritz Woehle, who redid the interior in 1982. He ex posed the original brick walls and installed our large skylight. In 1996, Joe Giattina designed the hand some and timeless storefront of steel, glass and stuc co. Third would be the firm of Dungan-Nequette, which added the dramatic reclaimed arched window in 2013. We are grateful to all these gentlemen.
It’s a long way from a dirt road and a general store to what Shaia’s is today. But we haven’t forgotten our beginnings…at the front of the store is a daily reminder of Shaia’s deeply-rooted history. At Ken’s suggestion, the front-door handle was modeled after the grapevines that his great-grandfather grew in his garden in the very spot where the store is now.
My father and grandfather taught me that success takes hard work, love and passion. Each generation has maintained those same values. Not everyone gets to spend their entire career doing what they love, sur rounded by family and friends. I feel very blessed to have been at the store for 65 years and to have worked with each generation. Shaia’s has grown as this com munity has grown, and we are forever grateful for the support you have given us for 100 years.
In 2005, Shaia’s wins the first of many Best of Class: Gold Standard awards from Esquire magazine.
Ready for cooler weather? Aren’t we all? Fall is that time when we rediscover old favorites and find new classics to embrace for many seasons to come.
Knitty gritty! Stay warm with this knit sweater from Maurizio Baldassari. Shirt from Corneliani. Trouser from PT01. Sunglasses from Tom Ford. Gloves from Rosi.Five pockets galore. Five pockets in a range of fabrics accentuate a fall wardrobe. Consider them in brushed twill or fine wale cord from Jacob Cohen this season. Pocket square from G. Inglese.
Feeling blue over finding perfect denim? Let Shaia’s go to work for you— knowing pants is in our blood.
There are very few things more indicative of classic Americana than a great pair of denim. The blue jean is to America what Hollywood is to the film industry. A birthplace of coolness the likes of James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause
But the same way a preponderance of movies are now being made outside their epicenter, jeans are expand ing beyond the borders of their production prominence. Sadly, most of the well-known stateside denim mills are now found in Japan or Europe, and we’re honored to partner with many of them.
As textile technology has improved, the mills have found new and interesting ways to incorporate denim. Nearly every vendor these days is offering something with stretch, which has helped ease the transition for customers still holding out on adopting slimmer fits. The days of a rigid shrink-to-fit ah la Jimmy in The Who’s movie, Qua drophenia, can feel archaic with so many fit and fabric options on the market.
We like them dark paired with a sportcoat for a dressier look. We like them distressed with some patina and a great T-shirt for a more fun, relaxed weekend look. We like them black. We like them white. Heck, we like them all.
Come check out the denim options from Citizens of Humanity, Paige, S.M.N., R51, Teleria, PT05 and Frame to find the fit and finish that speaks to you. We’ll do our best to make you look as good in yours as Paul Newman did in his in Cool Hand Luke!
Popularized by young hipster types in the late ’00s, the skin-tight denim phenomenon stuck around for about a decade before trends began to shift. But with slight modi fications, today’s skinny-fit jeans are both fashionable and comfortable—and yes, they do allow breathing.
How they fit: The skin-tight feeling has given way to something more modern. Keep doing those squats because this style still hugs your seat and thighs. Most are mid-rise, meaning that the waistline will sit slightly below your belly button, but guys with uber-thin, Mick Jagger-type bods will benefit from a low-rise jean that sits closer on the hip. Dudes should also pay attention to the level of skinniness in the leg. Many brands still offer jeans that carry the close fit all the way through the ankle, but if that tightness is too boy-band for you, opt for a pair with only a slight taper at the bottom. Who’s wearing them: Paparazzi often cap ture style icon Harry Styles wearing a pair of black denim skinny jeans with a statement button-up and Chelsea boots, but your day-to-night look can be perfect with a lightwash pair and a long-fit T-shirt. And while skinny fit may be favored by the nightclub crowd, it’s also suitable for the discerning man. Pair a subtler skinny jean with a sport coat and loafers for a sophisticated look that is far from dated.
It’s easy to use “skinny” and “slim” interchangeably in conversation, and there are indeed similarities when you’re talking about garments. But if you have a slightly fuller body, you’ll want to know the differ ence when putting on a pair of pants. How they fit: Like skinny-fit denim, slimfits also are close to the seat and thighs. They differ, however, in the leg opening— the calf and ankle loosen in most of the latter styles, providing greater mobility.
Average slim-fit jeans are constructed with a mid-rise—meaning that the length from the crotch to the belt is anywhere between 9 and 11 inches—and give off a casual vibe. High-rise slim-fit jeans sit just above the waist and provide a neater, sometimes tailored appearance.
Who’s wearing them: Slim-fit jeans are a great everyday cut for men looking to take the town by storm. Their versatility and ability to be paired with everything from sweaters and button-up shirts to sneakers and monk straps make them a preferred choice. And though they’re popular with Hollywood’s trim leading men, guys of all body types can feel confident in a pair because the slightly tapered yet close fit complements any figure.
In the beginning, jeans were utilitarian pants worn for any and every task— thus, comfort was the priority, then fashion. That meant they had to provide the wearer plenty of room to move while still appearing tidy. That’s the story of regular fit.
How they fit: Unlike slim-fit denim, which has a narrow silhouette and hugs the body, regular-fit jeans have a straight fit through the hips and thighs. In other words, they’re not too loose, not too tight. Though there’s no such thing as a one-size-fits-all pant, regular fit comes close. For shorter guys the style’s mid-rise adds balance while elongating the body’s frame. Taller fellows also benefit from the mid-rise, which can re duce the visual appearance of long legs. Who’s wearing them: Once worn mostly by blue-collar workers on the job, these jeans are perfect for casual Fridays at the office. The extra fabric standard in regular jeans gives added comfort to all body types. This style pairs well with sport shirts and boots for a casual or rugged look, but a darker wash can be dressed up easily with a dress shirt, sweater and monk strap shoes.
The fashion police didn’t ban baggy pants (though some U.S. cities did). In fact, this style isn’t the faux pas that some made it out to be a decade ago.
By considering a few sartorial rules, you can rock loose-fitting jeans and always be in style.
How they fit: Loose-fit jeans offer maxcomfort feel and max-casual vibe. That’s because the style is typically cut to sit below the waist, providing extra room in the seat and thigh area. The straight leg also is roomy, but doesn’t give off an excessive bulky or baggy appearance.
A high-rise fit can help men with larger waists flatten their mid-sections and shape their rear ends; it also allows more room in the leg for dudes with bigger calves. Watch the length of the leg: Jeans should not extend past the top of the shoes.
Who’s wearing it: This style is best kept in casual settings (ball games and the like), but a variety of styles—different colors, patterns and washes, for exam ple—will keep outfits interesting. For a smart combo, wear loose jeans in a light wash with layered pieces like hoodies, bomber jackets or large coats. Because of the jeans’ relaxed nature, finish a loosefit outfit with boots or sneakers.
Gold-rush miners of the 1850s knew they were wearing durable pants, but little did they know that their garb would be a long-lasting fashion trend. Of course, indigo-dyed cotton denim has come a long way since then, going through more than a century’s worth of transformations and incarnations (some memorable, others regrettable). Today’s jeans and five-pocket pants are better than ever: They’re just as durable to wear to a 9-to-5 job, whether you’re mining or managing clients, but they are constructed with comfort and style in mind too. Top designers such as MAC and Teleria Zed are incorporating fabrics such as elastane and Lycra to give their pant formulas stretch properties. Four-way stretch denim, for instance, provides the ultimate luxury. These pants stretch in four different directions, so they move with your body while you’re on the go, and they won’t lose their shape as they stretch over time—that was an issue with earlier stretch jeans. They’re also super-soft (like your athlei sure wear), so you can relax in a pair while you watch the whole ball game or binge the entire series of a Netflix show on your couch. Available in different washes and colors, stretch denim and five-pocket pants can be used equally in an office setting or out on the town. You’ll be tempted to wear them at the health club—they’re that comfortable—but go with the shorts and sweats for your workout.
the
Quality and timeless style—clothing to reflect a man’s sensibility, for any occasion.
Give your joggers a lift with this version in suiting wool from Eleventy. The double-breasted swacket, also from Eleventy, has a fireside elegance. Shirt from Stenströms. Shoes from Rubirosa.
Solid-colored grenadine ties, like this one from Bigi, should be staples in any wardrobe. They pair beautifully with just about any sportcoat, but especially bolder plaids like this navy/emerald version from Isaia. Shirt from Finamore. Trouser from PT01. Pocket square from G. Inglese.
Handmade gun-check is the intersection of luxe and sporty. This autumnal Donegal version from Mauro Blasi pairs beautifully with a dressy charcoal flannel trouser, or even these distressed denim jeans from S.M.N. The navy shirt from Corneliani plays well too! Pocket square from G. Inglese. Bracelet from Pig + Hen.
We think black tie means black tie. Black tie optional also means black tie. And avoid the urge to go “funky.” You’ll never look better than you do in a traditional tuxedo. And if you want to change it up and still stay timeless, consider this midnight navy version from Isaia. Eat your heart out, James Bond. Cumberbund and tie from Carrot & Gibbs. Shirt from Stenströms.
Run your errands in style with this convertible sportcoat with a removable dickey and rain hood from Eleventy. Cord joggers also from Eleventy. Consider a pop of color for a lift like this sweater from Fradi. Hat from Isaia.
The vest is best. It’s a workhorse. Use it as outerwear or a layering piece. This cashmere version from Cucinelli speaks for itself. Consider a subtle hit of color to complement it like this chino from PT01. Sweater from Fradi. Backpack from Eleventy. Shoes from Rubirosa.
We’ve
Backyard weddings and virtual ceremonies worked in a pinch, but formal events have
Comfort was key during the 2020 shutdown—even our attire for weddings was relaxed, whether they were con ducted over Zoom or in someone’s yard. Of course, you never failed to look your best, but attending life’s most special moments just wasn’t the same because you weren’t dressed to the nines. The good news is that “normal” has returned, as you likely have noticed thanks to the abundance of invitations to weddings and galas that have appeared in your mailbox. That means it’s time to visit us at Shaia’s, where we’ll size you up for your new made-to-measure tux. From a perfect-fitting jacket to modern accessories, our tailors and stylists will go through the checklist below and make sure, item by item, that you’re ready to go when the next big event arrives.
JACKET CUT: The tuxedo has been around for more than 100 years. What started as a dinner jacket in the late 1800s has seen very little change from its original design. Today’s jacket has a more modern shape and fit.
JACKET LAPEL: Wear a silk-faced peak lapel for highly formal occasions and a rounded shawl style when you want to soften your look.
JACKET SLEEVE: For the perfect length, be sure the sleeve shows about 3/8” of the shirt cuff—just enough for others to see your fancy cuff links.
JACKET LENGTH: There are a couple rules of thumb that are easy to follow: The jacket should cover your rear end and, with your arms at your side, the garment should end between your thumb’s knuckle and base.
PANT LEG WIDTH: Finding a cut that flatters your waist, thighs and calves is key. In other words, pants that are too tight will wrinkle, while anything that has too much material runs the risk of appearing baggy and sloppy.
PANT LEG LENGTH: Though you’ve shown plenty of ankle this summer, keep them covered at a formal event. In general, trousers should have half or no break. The half break is standard, showing a slight dent where the hem rests on the top of the shoe.
SHIRT COLLAR: The most often chosen arrangement for tails is a wing collar. The majority of what we sell is a medium spread collar.
now been restored to the agenda. Be sure your tux is ready for all those save-the-dates.
SHIRT FRONT: Pull off a timeless look with a smooth, slim-fit, bib-front shirt in a pique fabric with room for studs. Other clean looks are a shirt with no placket and concealed buttons, and a pleated front worn with studs. We most often prefer pique front.
Double-sided cuff links for your French-cuff shirt will give you a polished look, more than the T-bar variety. Stud sets can match, or closely resemble, your cuff links.
A tuxedo paired with a bow tie is considered appropri ate attire for the most formal weddings and special events. The black silk satin bow tie is the classic choice and a failsafe whether you’re the groom, a guest of honor or simply someone attending a black-tie affair.
On any given day, have fun mixing pocket square colors and folds with your sportcoats. You can even go bold dur
ing daytime weddings and fundraisers. But when it comes to the most formal events, there is nothing more classic than a white silk square in a presidential fold. Patent loafers and oxfords are a sure-fire hit for the most formal events. Or keep things low-key by choosing the styles in suede or polished leather.
We had a really good time.
The party was grand. On May 15, Shaia’s celebrated its 100th anniversary and the store (and back park ing lot) were filled with some of our favorite people! No business makes it so long without amazing customers, of course, and it was amazing to have so many of you here to help us mark the occasion. For those of you who couldn’t make it — you were missed and you were remembered. The food, the drink (and how about that amaz ing cake!) it was a grand time indeed. All we can say is “Thank you!”
MR magazine, perhaps the bible of the men’s fashion industry, honored J.L. Shaia with its 2022 Lifetime Achievement Award—honoring what they called “a century of relationships and risk-taking.”
In their words, it is recognition for a lifetime of humil ity, drive, passion, creativity, resilience and courage. J.L. and all of the other winners in the 2022 MR Awards were celebrated with a fete in New York in July. “No one wins a lifetime achievement award on the strengths of his own effort,” J.L. said. “This is a recognition of everyone who has worked to make Shaia’s successful. Our family. Every employee. Every cus tomer who has trusted us to help them look their best.
“I started in the store at age 10. My first job was raising and lowering the awnings so the merchandise wouldn’t fade.”
When I was just a boy, I knew I’d spend my life in this business. Every single day has been a blessing and joy. Even the hard times.”
Congratulations, J.L.! It is an honor well deserved.
Don’t get us wrong: We love off-the-rack garments, and they can create memorable looks. But face it—those shirts don’t fit like a made-to-measure shirt. Not every guy is an average Joe, so standard retail sizes and designs won’t always cut it. Because made-to-measure is based on your measurements, each shirt is guaranteed to fit perfectly.
We offer made-to-measure shirts from some of the world’s finest designers in addition to the country’s top dedicated shirtmakers. Each of the renowned brands has its own distinctive style, and we know you do too. So what do you have to do to get your unique piece? That’s easy: Let us do the work.
A common misconception is that made-to-mea sure is a complicated and costly proposition. That’s not at all true. We partner with makers to offer options at several price points, making it accessible for everyone. Here’s how it works: Our made-tomeasure experts will talk to you about your personal style, fit, details and occasion. We will take you through the seemingly countless number of options to design exactly what you have in mind. Whether it’s formal, business or casual—we can do it all.
First, our staff will take all your measurements—chest, neck, shoulders, arms, biceps (have you been working out?), waistline, the works. Next, you’ll select the ma terial that will eventually go on your back and whether your shirt will be a single solid color or two tones, adorned with elegant stripes, boast a nice checked pattern or more. Our wide assortment of fabrics comes only from the most demanding mills in the world, and they satisfy all needs, wants and styles. Loose, athletic or slim fit? It’s all up to you.
Here is where you let your creativity and attitude shine. We’ll present you with a plethora of options to customize your shirt. Think about the type of collar you prefer. For instance, the cutaway collar provides plenty of room if you wear a Windsor tie knot or the spread collar that has a wide yet crisp look with or without a tie.
You have your choice of cuffs too. A two-button barrel cuff is perfect for everyday or to wear to a more casual office. Rounded cuffs add a touch of
formality to your look, or choose a sophisticated French or double cuff if you’re headed to a black-tie event or just like to wear cufflinks. Personalization doesn’t end there. Mother-of-pearl buttons? Placket or no placket? One, two or no pockets? Mono grammed or clean look? You decide.
Forget about spending hours trying on clothes in a tight changing room. Once tailors have confirmed your measurements and design selections, your job is essentially done. Made-to-measure shirts require few fittings, or in some cases none at all. (That’s more time to shop in our store for sportcoats and ties to complete the look!) It’s a modest investment of time and, if we may say so, a pretty good deal. Typically, the turnaround time for a made-to-mea sure shirt is three to five weeks. Expect to pay $180$450 for it—about the same as a fine shirt that’s ready to wear. You can start with just one if you like, but we’re fairly sure you won’t stop there. But be warned. Once you’ve tried made-to-measure, you may find it hard to go back to off-the-rack.
Your style. Your comfort. Your exact fit. Made-to-measure is a shirt story that always has a happy ending.