1 | Wanderer Magazine
2 | Wanderer Magazine PHOTOGRAPH CARRIE COLE
WELCOME Our second issue of WANDERER is bursting at the seams! Almost doubling in size and filled with more gorgeous photos than ever, I am thrilled to bring you this issue, OCEANS, TREES & MOUNTAINS, hailing from the Pacific Northwest of America. Written and photographed by Carrie Cole, it is an article that will get you thinking about your next family vacation! Also in this issue, we have internationally known photographer Bob Davis, gracing our pages with his photographic journey of the streets of VENEZIA, one of my most favorite cities on the planet and one of the cities that is always featured in each issue of WANDERER. The Follow Your Heart Tours to Turkey participants have shared some of their treasured moments, along with some photo guides to OKTOBERFEST in Munich, MADRAS, INDIA and MANILA. Getting this issue started we take a trip to central Turkey, or CAPPADOCIA, where Fairy Chimneys are not only magical but were the homes of many for years. I hope you enjoy this issue of WANDERER as much as I did putting it together! Let’s wander now, shall we?
Wanderer-in-Chief
Wanderer Magazine |3
10
16
07 CONTENTS 07.
The Fairy Chimneys of Cappadocia Once upon a time, there lived people in villages built out of lava formed rock in the villages of Central Turkey.
10.
Viva Manila The Pearl of the Orient still holds her shine despite years of hardship & war.
16.
Oceans, Trees & Mountains One family’s summer adventure that took them throughout the breathtaking Oregon/Washington Coastline.
42.
With Love From A collection of photographs from a recent tour with Follow Your Heart Tours through Turkey.
44.
Wander With Me This month we get lost in Venezia as world-renowned photographer Bob Davis leads us on a photographic journey through the streets of this romantic city.
Cover Photo: Carrie Cole 4 | Wanderer Magazine
66
44
54 54.
Celebrating Oktoberfest Once a year Munich’s biggest bash brings in thousands from across the globe, and for more than just its kegs of lager.
66.
Colors of Madras This once British colonized city on the southeast coast of India has colorful history, culture and shopping. Wander-in-Chief Tracey Heppner Contributing Writers Carrie Cole Contributing Photographers Carrie Cole Bob Davis Beatrice Puertollano Jay Fernando Jeanie Ow Look for text in BOLD - it is most likely a hyperlink. Enjoy. www.wanderermagonline.com Wanderer Magazine |5
6 | Wanderer Magazine
FAIRY CHIMNEYS OF CAPPADOCIA Located in Central Turkey in Goreme and surrounding villages, these magical sedimentary rock formations are more than a pretty face.
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS TRACEY HEPPNER
Wanderer Magazine |7
EARLY CAPPADOCIANS actually used these millions years old tuff rock formations as homes by chisell. Today you can even visit some that are now used as cafes and bigger formations are converted into hotels. One such cafe owner in Uchisar, Ismail Kutlugun, runs a cafe out of the very fairy house where he was born. His typical Turkish house. Not only can you purchase hot & cold drinks, but you can even order a meal as you sit on the balcony and look out to fairy chimneys as far as the eye can see. tipikturkevi.com
8 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |9
Viva Manila WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS TRACEY HEPPNER
10 | Wanderer Magazine
Known as the Pearl of the Orient for many decades for being on the cutting edge of most everything in Asia, the Philippines capital city is making a comback since the devestation of the war...not only by the increase of international tourists but locals learning about her.. Viva Manila. Photo: Salcedo Village, Makati.
The man who knows Manila’s history better than any tour guide around is none other than Carlos Celdran. His “Walk This Way” walking tours through the old walled city of Intramuros in downtown Manila, is a 3-hour, interactive comedic and dramatic storytelling of the history of this city. Celdran has a history in the performing arts and has captivated audiences for decades. Manila’s multi-layered history is best told by Celdran, who has an unwavering passion for his city and currently has been asked to help in the tourism of the city of Manila, as he is known for getting stuff done...or at least looked at long and hard. Wanderer Magazine |11
lorem Left: Part of the Makati skyline. Right: A local restaurant in the hipster loving area known as Cubao Expo, or Cubao X, in Quezon City. Most people think of the pristine beaches or majestic rice terraces in the mountains when they think of the Philippines. However, the capital city of this archipelago is making a comeback as more than a stop-over for beach destined visitors. Manila’s economy, along with the steady rise of international investments and good government, have helped this once worn down city find itself, and buildings, arts & culture and restaurants are springing up everywhere. Truly Manila is a city not be to missed.
Metro Manila consists of 17 cities and municipalities that cover an area of over 630 square kilometers. Over 12 million people call Metro Manila home and over 1.5 million alone live in the city of Manila. Inside Manila City is the old walled city, also known as Intramuros. This oldest district and core of Manila was the seat of the Spanish Government during the Spanish Colonial Period. The many Spanish styled buildings are seen throughout Intramuros still today. Don’t forget to see a Manila Sunset too. 12 | Wanderer Magazine
Makati City, one of major Business Districts of Metro Manila, houses some of the most modern buildings in the Philippines. The contrast of low income and highrise buildings is still evident throughout parts of the metropolis. Museums, international cuisine and top-of-the-line shopping malls and 5 star hotels make up a large part of Makati’s color that is never disappointing. Cubao, located in Quezon City, is a hub of its own. With massive spances of malls and people moving in every direction, the hub’s “Cubao Expo” located near Ali Mall, has become a
Above: Makati at sunset, with the Manila Bay in the background. Below, top: Meals in Chinatown in Manila are delicious and inexpensive. Below, bottom: A jeepney, a local mode of public transportation. hipsters hangout. Quaint home shops, along with restaurants bars, and other shops make for a typical chill night in Cubao. Getting around Metro Manila is easy you have many options. For the adventurous traveler, using the Philippine Jeepney is always a fun way to go. There are also buses, lightrail trains and buses. The cost is minimal and always cramped, but you will definitely feel more like a local than a tourist riding sardine style. Most importantly of course, is the food scene of Manila. With local and international cuisines plentiful, you will never have an excuse to be hungry. Besides, one of the favorite pasttimes of most locals is having some sort of meal. So you will always be in good company! Next time stop for more than a layover in this booming metropolis and take in the city that never sleeps. Manila - she indeed lives on. Wanderer Magazine |13
14 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |15
OCEANS, TREES & MOUNTAINS WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS CARRIE COLE
Duis risus neque, blandit eu aliquam et, aliquet eget diam. Cras euismod nulla id ante lacinia dictum. Nullam egestas augue sit amet sem tincidunt nec euismod erat blandit.
16 | Wanderer Magazine
The idea of a three week road trip covering over 4500 kilometers with two kids stuck in the backseat may not sound appealing to some. Many may even think of the Griswold’s Adventures! We were determined to show our children the world beyond our little corner, so we excitedly set off for the 2013 Cole Family Adventure!
lorem Wanderer Magazine |17
Olympic National Park, Washington State
Hurricane Ridge Drive scenic mountain road takes you over a mile high, and provides amazing views and endless hiking opportunities. Hurricane Hill Trail is a challenging 5 kilometer hike which gains 700 feet in elevation, but the wonderful panoramic views at sunset make it worthwhile. The windy drive to Cape Flattery provides fantastic views of the rocky, wild West Coast. An easy hike on a boardwalk to the Point is well worth it and even on a foggy day, we reveled in the beauty of the cliffs, trees and windswept landscape. Watch for the lighthouse just offshore, visible on a clear day. With a rocky beach, gigantic driftwood logs and dramatic sea stacks, Rialto Beach is a must see! A 3.2 kilometer walk along the beach brings you to Holein-the-Wall, a natural sea arch carved by centuries of surf and wild windstorms!
18 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |19
20 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |21
Cannon Beach & Area, Oregon State Haystack Rock, standing at 235 feet tall, provides the dramatic backdrop to miles of sandy beach at Cannon Beach. We basked in the serenity of the spectacular sunsets here! Wander through the charming town, explore the shops and drop by Fultano’s for fantastic pizza. Sample the tasty wares at Bruce’s Candy Kitchen, while watching the staff make their famous salt water taffy in their kitchen. Ecola State Park, might be overlooked by some, but it offers the best coastal views of the area including Tillamook Rock Lighthouse. A short forested drive within the Park takes you to Indian Beach, a popular sandy beach with surfers and beach combers alike. Take a minute to stop by Hug Point State Park with its amazing sandy beach! The Peter Iredale Shipwreck at Fort Stevens State Park is of interest to history buffs and shutterbugs alike. Where else can you see a 100 year old shipwreck, and for the more adventurous, climb its decaying iron skeleton?! Cheese! Who doesn’t love cheese?! A stop at Tillamook Cheese Factory, is both tasty and educational. Hard to leave without buying least a few blocks of the creamy goodness! Our favorite was the Hot Habanero Jack Cheese! Trains excite most three year old boys. Keep your eyes peeled for the abandoned trains just outside the Tillamook Air Museum. Our son was ecstatic to climb the decaying train engines! 22 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |23
24 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |25
26 | Wanderer Magazine
Newport Beach & Area Oregon State Meandering through the Historic Waterfront in Newport gives insight to a working fishing pier, fantastic views of Yaquina Bay Bridge, tourist shops, and impressive murals. Visitors try their hand at crabbing from the piers. Follow the loud barking to “Bachelor Row�, where the male sea lions draw the attention of many tourists. Shutterbugs will love capturing the reflections of the sailing vessels off the water. Coffee lovers should not miss Pirate Coffee Company in Depoe Bay where the people are extremely helpful and friendly; they roast their own coffee beans. We stopped by twice; we liked it so much! Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport provides an educational experience for all. Stop by the Shark Tank at feeding time for a real treat! The interactive Fishing Gallery gives children experience as fishermen in coastal waters as they learn where our seafood comes from. Lighthouse and nature lovers will enjoy the scenic coastline and seabirds at the Yaquina Head Lighthouse. At 93 feet, the lighthouse is the tallest in Oregon, and offers informative tours inside. The rocky outcrops support more than 80,000 Common Murres, which is a very noisy community! Traveling south to Bandon is a wonderful day of coastal scenery. Cooks Chasm at Cape Perpetua is an amazing place to observe the power of the ocean. The foggy misty day, made for an enchanting stop at Heceta Head providing views of the cliff-side lighthouse as well as the Cape Creek Bridge which resembles a Roman aqueduct. Wanderer Magazine |27
28 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |29
30 | Wanderer Magazine
Bandon, Oregon You can’t help but unwind in the quaint town of Bandon. The beautiful, often deserted sandy beach with many intriguing sea stacks drew us in right from the start. Spend a day or two at Face Rock State Park walking along the shore, building sand castles and exploring the sea stacks. Don’t miss the caves of Cathedral Rock at low tide. They are fantastic! A leisurely stroll along the Waterfront of Old Town is a delightful way to spend part of the day. Drop by Bandon Fish Market for fresh fish and chips and great service. The Coquille River Lighthouse is also a must see, along with the abundant pelicans nearby. We were also treated to another amazing sunset as taken Face Rock State Park. Can you see the face? Wanderer Magazine |31
32 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |33
Redwoods Our daughter has always wanted to see the Redwoods, so we were excited to cross that off her bucket list! Howland Hill Road, is a lesser known unpaved road providing access to Stout Memorial Grove. Squeezing through the narrow windy road through old growth forest was exciting! The grove itself has a remarkably open and yet quiet feel, as the underbrush consists of layers of ferns and sorrel. Even our busy three year old son stopped for a few moments of reflection! We felt very small! Up for scenic drives? Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway takes you through the heart of old growth forest in the Prairie Creek Redwoods. The Coastal Drive Loop near Klamath, California is for the more adventurous with suitable vehicles. The very narrow windy road has steep grades, but offers panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. High Bluff Overlook is spectacular! 34 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |35
36 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |37
38 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |39
40 | Wanderer Magazine
Crater Lake National Park, Oregon Crater Lake in a thunderstorm? Wow, what an introduction to this already impressive area! The dynamic skies added to the drama and as we watched lightning strikes in the distance, it made a deep impression on us. Loop Drive is one of the most spectacular scenic byways we have seen, with many opportunities to stop along the way. But, don’t miss the Pinnacles Overlook which is a short detour from Rim Drive. 100 foot spires impress! You will not be disappointed if you make time for a sunset from Cloudcap Overlook, nearly 8000 feet above sea level. Even on a cloudy evening, our patience was rewarded when the bright red sun reappeared below the clouds just above the crater ridge. We were giddy with excitement! The nearby Umpqua National Forest offers stunning lush forest, waterfalls and wonderful hiking. Watson Falls, which is the highest falls in Southwest Oregon drops 272 feet over a basalt lava flow. The falls are spectacular! Sadly, after twenty one days it was time to head for home, but we were left with wonderful memories of fantastic places we were fortunate enough to visit. Until the next adventure‌
Carrie Cole lives in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada on scenic Vancouver Island, along with her husband and two awesome kids. She has a great love for the outdoors, which has led to many adventures along with her family to discover the beauty of the natural world. She loves travel, landscape and newborn photography. Find more of her work online: carrie-cole.artistwebsites.com facebook.com/CarrieColePhotography Wanderer Magazine |41
With Love From..
This issue’s “postcards” are from some of the wanderers from the Follow Your Heart Tour to Turkey this past September 2013.
lorem
OLD CITY, ISTANBUL It was amazing to see this beautiful mosque in person. Named for the blue tiles that adjorn the interior walls, the Blue Mosque is a must see! ~JEANIE OW, Vancouver, BC, Canada
ISTANBUL - The Dervishes reflected that God has indeed put eternity in the hearts of men and no matter where or into what culture or religion someone is born into, there is that instinctive knowledge of a being that is much higher and powerful than us, who created this universe. ~JAY FERNANDO, Makati, Philippines
HIERAPOLIS, PAMUKKALE Hierapolis, popular for its hot springs, was used as a spa in the 2nd century B.C.. The city has a large necropolis or ancient cemetery, which today, leaves one in wonder what could it have been like living your last days in this ancient city.
42 | Wanderer Magazine
LAODECIA Originally known as Diospolis or “City of Zeus” and afterwards Rhoda, before it became how we know it now, Laodecia. Famous for fabrics, sandals, and medicine, and was also a major banking center, this ancient city worked its way to importance. Seeing simplicity while being amidst the great structure just leaves one in awe. ~BEATRICE PUERTOLLANO, Makati, Philippines
lorem
PAMUKKALE From the distance the terraces looked like snow covered embankments. Set against the clear blue skies, walking on Pamukkale’s cotton castles was a dream come true. Bucket list - check! ~JEANIE OW, Vancouver, BC, Canada
EPHESUS - I stood in awe as I looked at these structures because it brings to mind the natural creativity and capability of mankind (so evident at a time when there were no modern equipment/ tools/gadgets), both of which were freely given by the God who created the heavens and the earth. ~PHYLLIS FERNANDO, Makati, Philippines
BOSPORUS, ISTANBUL - I love how this pic depicts Turkey’s diversity - the ancient and the modern, the simple and the elaborate, Asia and Europe – and how amidst all these, are the numerous reminders of a God who longs to be a part of their lives. ~PHYLLIS FERNANDO, Makati, Philippines Wanderer Magazine |43
Wander with Me
44 | Wanderer Magazine
Getting Lost in Venezia PHOTOGRAPHS BOB DAVIS
lorem
Wanderer Magazine |45
46 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |47
48 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |49
50 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |51
52 | Wanderer Magazine
I’m not a newcomer to the photographic industry. I’ve been a professional photographer for over 25 years. It was obvious to me at an early age that being a photographer was what I wanted to do with my life! My passion for photography began back in high school when I became the editor of my newspaper. I then went on to Columbia College and was named College Photographer of the Year. With this came a full time job at the Daily Southtown newspaper in Chicago and then on to the Chicago Sun-Times newspaper for 14 years. My cameras have always been a passport allowing me a front seat to history. I am continually honored when doors open and people invite me in to document their life. While at the paper, I had covered countless amazing events, such as presidential elections, Michael Jordan’s entire career with the Chicago Bulls, many faiths celebrations and rituals. I’ve traveled around the world to places such as El Salvador, Taiwan, Lithuania, Romania, Moldova, Kenya, Italy, Austria, Slovenia, Tanzania for weddings and human interest stories for non-profit organizations. I have since moved on from the newspaper industry. Today, I have the privilege of photographing the most important events in my client’s lives and I couldn’t be more happy to have this honor. I have the pleasure of traveling the world photographing weddings. I have had the honor to photograph the weddings of Eva Longoria and Tony Parker, Eddie Murphy and Tracey Edmonds, Salma Hayek and Francois-Henri Pinault, La La Vasquez and Carmelo Anthony, The Bachelorette Ashley Herbert and J.P. Rosenbaum and many events for Oprah Winfrey. I am honored to be a member Canons Explorers of Light, a Westcott Top Pro, a member of SanDisk Extreme Team and a part of Apple’s Aperture Advisory Board. I am the author of Lights, Camera, Capture, Creative Lighting Techniques for Digital Photographers. I am proud to say it’s also an App for the iPad and was the number one selling photography App on the Apple App Store. Photography... It’s what I’m passionate about. Bob Davis
Find More of Bob’s work online: www.bobanddawndavis.com
Wanderer Magazine |53
54 | Wanderer Magazine
OKTOBERFEST
PHOTOGRAPHS TRACEY HEPPNER
Known as the world’s largest fair, Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany is more than 16-days at the beer gardens - it is a celebration for over 6 million young and old internationally that runs annually every Sept/Oct. Make Munich part of your next European Travel. Wanderer Magazine |55
COLORS OF MADRAS WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS TRACEY HEPPNER Also known as Chennai, Madras’ colorful history and culture is seen in the everday of life in this southeastern India city. With Christian as well as Hindu roots running deep through its veins, Madras is the biggest metropolis in the south for industrial, commercial as well as a major cultural center. No wonder there is so much to see and do in this coastal city that lies on the Bay of Bengal.
My time in Madras, or Chennai, was limited on this trip. I was there primarily to visit land for an NGO I am involved with outside of city. With a full day ahead of us, I knew that we could take in some of the sights of this buzzing city. I just had to figure out a plan. With google maps on my screen, and my search engine raring to go, coming up with a full day was less work than I had anticipated. The city’s origins date back to when the English had colonized it, and being set on the edge of the ocean, this port had always been a busy one. First we set off to San Thome Basilica. It is said that the tomb of the Saint Thomas was on a hill overlooking Chennai, in the southwest. This particular church was named after him and built by the Portuguese in the 16th century. It was so ornate and detailed and the whitest white I ever saw. I loved that even at the church, shoes were left at the door. 56 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer Magazine |57
58 | Wanderer Magazine
From here we went to the Ashtalakshmi Temple located right along the Bay of Bengal. There were pilgrimmers on the beach, all dressed in red. What a sight to behold. Shopping in Chennai can be done at local markets or even shopping centers. Beautiful indian fabrics and sheets, saris, pants and many other pieces of clothing can be found and one can usually barter for a great deal. Sandlewood is plentiful and you can get anything from a simple to an extravagantly detailed box or piece at almost any price range. Indian spices are plentiful and with a husband who is one of the best Indian cooks I know, one of everything was in order! The main modes of public transportation was buses and these little yellow motortrike type vehicles. Taxis were plenty, and crazy, if you so desired putting your life in the hands of the driver. I have always thought that the continuously sounding horns in India were just found in the movies, but no, it’s for real, and it was awesome! Chennai has so much more to see that we were able to with our limited time and schedule.The next time I am in Madras, I plan to get lost a little...or wander, rather... to really take in life as a local. Wanderer Magazine |59
A PLACE FOR THE HEART...
As I wrote in this issue’s WELCOME, Venice is one of my most favorite cities. In the past five years, it has become overrun by tourism so much so that, at the rate it is going, local Venetians are said to choose a different city to live by 2020. But it was in these streets, off the beaten path, where at a very dark time in my life, I found a safe place for my heart. It was in Venice, in the small squares where the locals live in Canneregio, that I sat and knew that all was well in my world. And at any time I felt like my bearings had slipped, I would think of her and be at rest. This is why Venice will always have a place in the pages of WANDERER. xoxo 60 | Wanderer Magazine
Wanderer
COMING IN OUR NEXT ISSUE
UMBRIA, ITALY VANCOUVER, CANADA ST PAUL’S JOURNEY IN TURKEY LA UNION, NORTHERN PHILIPPINES
Wanderer Magazine |61
Wanderer
travel, culture & the world around us
Would you like to contribute through writing or photographs for an article? Or how about sending us your postcards for our WITH LOVE FROM feature? You can also be a guest writer for our WANDER WITH ME column. Simply email us at: wanderermag@gmail.com We would love for you to wander with us.
62 | Wanderer Magazine