Welcome Can you believe that it’s been over a year since we first launched WANDERER Magazine? What an exciting year of travel we have had! This issue brings more wanderlust delight - from a food tour through Rome by Jarusha Brown to a journey through the Canadian Rockies with Hans Fausto, this issue will leave you longing for your next adventure! We have several features about Turkey, as this autumn’s tour I am leading is THE OLD VILLAGES and we would love to entice you to Follow Your Heart with us there. As well, treasures that we bring from our travels...you know, the souvenirs and parts of the country we visit that we bring home to remember? These and more are for you to indulge in this issue! Remember we are also online and update the blog from time to time, as well as you can find our past issues there along with how you can contribute your journeys to WANDERER. Simply visit us at www.wandereronline.com. We hope you enjoy this issue, as well as our travels from the last year! Wanderer-in-Chief,
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Istiklal Street When in Istanbul, Istaklal Street is one of the places you can walk and walk and walk and never tire of.
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The Old Villages of Turkey It’s not too late to join us on our next tour through Turkey: The Old Villages. Have a look at our most awesome itinerary.
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Eating in Rome A culinary journey through photographs by Canadian photographer Jarusha Brown will leave your tastebuds salivating for Italian food like never before.
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Treasures from afar A peek into some of my precious treasures that I personally bring home from my travels throughout the years.
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Road Trip through the Rockies Photographer Hans Fausto takes us on his roadtrip through the Rocky Mountains of Canada.
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Assos - Coastal Magic The charm of this coastal Turkish hamlet will captivate you from the moment you lay eyes on her. Venezia: Aqua Alta Wander through the flooded canals and streets of Venice. Summertime in Baguio Located in the mountains on Luzon island in the Philippines, Baguio is a summer getaway for both local and foreign travelers.
Wander-in-Chief Tracey Heppner Magazine Editor Jeanie Ow Contributing Photographers Jarusha Brown Hans Fausto Look for text in BOLD - it is most likely a hyperlink. Enjoy. www.wanderermagonline.com Wanderer Magazine |5
ISTIKLAL STREET | ISTANBUL, TURKEY
Measuring more than a kilometer, Istiklal Street is a carfree avenue where only pedestrians and a bright red tram share the road along with hundreds of shops and more.
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ABOUT ISTIKLAL STREET One of the most famous avenues in all of Istanbul is Istiklal Street.During the weekends, over 3 million people tread the road that measures 1.4 km in length. The area is surrounded by Ottoman era buildings as well as Art Deco buildings from the early years of the Turkish Republic. As one of the centers of fine arts and leisure in Istanbul, it is home to numerous art galleries, bookstores, cafes & pubs, restaurants, hotels and shops. Istiklal also hosts the Istanbul Film Festival annually. A stroll down this thoroughfare isn’t even a question when you visit Istanbul.
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The Old VILLAGES OF TURKEY
Turkey has become one of our FOLLOW YOUR HEART TRAVEL EXPERIENCES primary travel destination.. Last year we did St Pauls Journey & the 7 Churches. This year we are esploring the countrysides of Turkey in search of (and will find!) the OLD VILLAGES. Our itinerary will start with DAY 1 in Istanbul. Upon arrival we will drive to the ‘Old City’. The first stop: the Hippodrome of Constantinople, the centre of Byzantine civic life, where horse and chariot races used to take place. We then travel towards the Blue Mosque, known for the impressive blue tiles lining its walls.
reconstructed by Justinian in the 6th century. The last stop in the Old City: the Spice Bazaar, where the smells of cinnamon, cloves and thyme rise from hundreds of colourful muslin bags at every storefront. We will then embark on the sunset Bosphorus Cruise Boat, a scenic journey along the Bosphorus between two continents - Asia and Europe - and ending with dinner at a seafood restaurant in Sariyer before we retire for the night in Istanbul.
DAY 2 we leave Istanbul for Canakkale. There we will visit Troy, referred to in Homer’s “Iliad” and “Odyssey”, Troy has, in fact, nine cities superimposed one upon another. Troy VI pertains to the famous Trojan War of Homer The Basilica of Haggia Sophia where the legendary heroes included (Divine Wisdom), now called the Agamemnon, Archilles, Ulysses and Ayasofya Museum, is unquestionably Nestor on the Greek side and Priam. one of the finest buildings of all time. Hector and Paris on the Trojan side. Built by Constantine the Great, it was We will end our day in Assos, the
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coastal hamlet along the Aegean Sea. Once we have woken up, we will drive to the Kazdaglari villages where first beauty contest was held and Paris gave the golden apple to Aphrodite. Onwards to Pergamon and visit villages in Madrag Mountain. DAY 3 will conclude and we will lay our heads in Bergama. DAY 4 begins with a drive to Izmir and up to the Velvet Castle of Izmir to take pictures of Izmir city from a hill top and discover the castle surroundings.. Along the western coast we will will then drive to Selcuk town, where we will visit the famous ancient city of Ephesus. It is one of the world’s finest archaeological sites with highlights including the Library of Celcius, the Temple of Hadrian, the Fountain of Trajan and the Theatre. A must visit to the village off Sirince before we stay the night in Kusadasi. After a shopping stop at a leather outlet centre, DAY 5 will begine with our drive to Pamukkale. On the way stop in Aphrodisias, the antique city named after the Aphrodite, goddess of love. The ruins of the amphitheater and the museum are quite impressive.
One of the great things about Follow Your Heart is that because each tour is tailor made, we can add extra things along the way.
For example, in our last tour, we We will visit Laodicea, where we will find a happened upon a theatre, a large stadium, a water tower and an melon stand along odeon. This city is supposed to have been named the roadside by Antiochus II in honour of his wife, Laodicea. where we were not The last stop for the day will be Hierapolis, which only able to have was founded by Pergamon King Telephons and fresh melon right named after his wife, Hiera. During the Byzantine there to eat, but period, the city became the seat of diocese with a large Christian Church dedicated to St Philip, who meet a lovely Turkish was martyred there in 80 AD. Highlights include woman who was the Roman baths, the theatre and the famous harvesting from her white calcium cascades of Pamukkale (the white garden. “Cotton Castles”). After waking in Pamukkale, we begin our drive to Beysehir lake via Colossae, Pisidian Antioch (Yalvac). During Paul’s time, the population was made up of Jews, Romans and Greeks. We will
Experiencing Turkish life - only with Follow Your Heart! Wanderer Magazine |11
Above: The Whirling Dervishes which can be experienced not only throughout Istanbul but in the very centre of where it began in Konya. stay overnite in Beysehir town after visiting Kusluca Village, Hittite Fountain and Beysehir Mosque, which are all mustsees! DAY 7 is a day unlike any we have yet had on the tour. After our drive to Antalya, we will visit Ormanada Village on the Taurus Mountain, where we will enjoy a Ormanada home stay in a village house. A visit to a cave lake, a huge chesnut tree and beautiful houses in Ormanada Village will complete the day.
from Cyprus. Some highlights are, the gymnasium, the bath, the Agora, the theater, the stadium and the Hellenistic Gate. On DAY 9 following breakfast we will drive through an interesting landscape where peasants make their living. We will have lunch enroute before arriving in Konya. Konya was the center of the Sel癟uk Empire as well as the city of Mevlana and his Whirling Dervishes. After visit the Mevlana Museum, we drive to Cappadocia where we will stay for 2 nights in a cave hotel!
After breakfast and a weather Back to Antalya on DAY 8 to visit the permitting hot air balloon ride, we Old Harbour. Highlights are Hadrian Gate and beautiful old harbor houses. A visit Kaymakl覺 Underground City carved into soft rocks resembling a visit to the Antalya Museum and huge labyrinth of tunnels, rooms, Perge ancient site. This is where St. Paul began preaching after arriving and passageways, which were used by
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Christians hiding from their Roman and Byzantine persecutors. Their colourful frescoes remain as vibrant as when they were first made. A visit to a natural fortress in Uchisar, the Valleys of Goreme, the Goreme Open Air Museum includes numberous old churches will be ours to discover before we head to the pottery town of Avanos where Kizilirmak River meanders leaving the red clay on its banks that has been the raw material of Turkish pottery for centuries. DAY 11 we will drive to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Safranbolu town, via Ankara. In Ankara we will visit Atataturk’s monumental tomb before we end the day and stay in Safranbolu homes. On our last day of the tour before we head back to Istanbul, we will visit one last village located in Safranbolu.
Our tour will be absolutely amazing. Our next OLD VILLAGES journey will be in June 2015. www.followyourhearttours.com
Above: Muslin sacks of spices can be bought everywhere in Turkey. Below: A cafe in a “fair chimney” in Cappadocia
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EATING THROUGH th
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS JARUSHA BROWN
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he heart of ROME lorem Wanderer Magazine |15
One of the best parts of traveling is undoubtedly the food, and the Italians have really got it figured out. The two main things that my fiancĂŠ and I knew when we were planning our trip to Rome, other than seeing the sights, was that we wanted to stay in the funky old area called Trastevere and that we wanted to go on a walking food tour.
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Happily, one of the best tours was of the Trastevere neighbourhood where we stayed, and because we took our tour at the beginning of our 8 day stay, we were able to revisit the tour locations over and over. The tour was just over 4 hours long and we left happy and full. Our guide was born in Rome, raised in England and is now back in Rome again living in the area.
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Romans are very proud to call themselves Romans and we felt like our guide was proudly showing us her neighbourhood and the characters that live there.
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Trastevere means “across the Tiber” and its character comes from its narrow cobblestone streets, medieval houses and villagetype atmosphere. Every stop on our tour was like being introduced to the colourful locals of a little Italian town. We nibbled on fresh cheese, meat, fruit, baked goods. Roman-style pizza and gelato, all while learning the history of the area. At midday we stopped for a long table pasta meal with wine and fresh baked bread and finished up the tour with custard and dessert wine. All in all it was an incredible day of eating and walking, learning and snapping photographs. I would do it again in a heartbeat and maybe try the company’s nighttime Trastevere tour next time!
----For more information on the food tours, visit: www.eatingitalyfoodtours.com Wanderer Magazine |35
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About Jarusha Brown I began taking photos in high school when I sold my saxophone and bought an SLR. Good move - I was a terrible sax player. After many travels I ended up in Calgary where I got a BFA in Photography and haven’t looked back. I won some awards, exhibited some fine art and now call Vancouver my home where I practice photography full-time. When I’m not behind my camera I’m eating mangoes, traveling the world, breathing the fresh mountain air, spending time with my man, visiting my home town of Naramata, exploring used book stores, drinking good red wine, skiing, and riding bikes. I am based in Vancouver, Canada but adore travelling.
Find Jarusha online:
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From Venice, Italy
I have yet to be in Venice during Carnevale, which ends at the end of Lent. Oh, to be able to experience and photograph the many amazing costumes would be ever so breathtaking! So I brought home a mask from my first trip to Venice..to remind me to go back one day for Carnevale.
From Turkey
One of my most recent places is the country of Turkey. Since my first visit in 2011, I fell instantly in love. Anyone who knows me at all also knows my love for coffee. When I first had a cup of authentic Turkish coffee in Istanbul, it was almost a spiritual experience for me. I have since bought a Turkish coffee pot and this coffee set - so that every time I use it, I may remember the way I drank it for the first time in Turkey!
From Everywhere
I never considered myself a collector of sorts, but there are a few things I try to find during my travels and pins is one of them. Italy, Turkey, Germany, Jackson Hole, Hong Kong, Philippines and so many others are among them that are currently in my little Turkish bowl. It looks like I may need a new bowl soon!
Treasures from Afar We all do it: bring back something from our travels, not only for our loved ones, but for ourselves. They remind us of moments in our travels to a particular place and can instantly take us back there. Here are a few of mine.
From Mindoro, Philippines
Located less than a 3 hour drive and then 1 hr boat trip from me in Manila, is the island of Oriental Mindoro. Not far from the beach I was staying at, I discovered a mountain tribe settlement- the Mangyans - who I instantaneously fell in love with. I visit the island as often as I am able, and always make sure to bring back one of the woven creations.
From Cannon Beach, Oregon
One of our families’ favorite summer spots before we moved overseas was Cannon Beach on the Oregon Coast of the USA. There, in a small studio, some of the most beautiful pottery I have ever seen is made. It was near our anniversary, the one time we were there, and these 4 gobblets whispered to take them home with me. It wasn’t hard to say no to them. And to this day, every time I use them, I am reminded of our favourite summer family spot.
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WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS HANS FAUSTO
Road trIp through the rockIes
When I was about 12 years old, I traveled to so many places. I flew to different parts of Europe and I traveled to other places around the Philippines. It’s just that, being so young then, I failed to appreciate the culture, the sights and the things that were meant to be seen. It’s as if I never went there at all. Years after that, when I started travelling again, Wanderer Magazine |43
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there I began to understand and appreciate the world better and one of the places I appreciated a lot was Canada. It was April of 2013 and my family and I decided to go to Canada, a country my father frequents because of his engineering work. Now, I didn’t want to miss a lot of things on this trip, so I made sure I was psyched, and made sure I was ready to absorb everything that was Canada – If it is one thing I learned, it’s that when you travel, you should be one with the people; immerse yourself in their culture. Don’t just go to Disneyland or Universal or Lego land or those places people commonly go to, their culture lies in the everyday things they do. And so I decided to give that a try. Our trip basically began in Richmond, Vancouver. We were there to visit my dad’s best friend, Allen. We landed in Vancouver airport and first thing that I noticed was the air; it was very light and cool as compared to the air in the Philippines. We then made our way to our hotel, settled down a bit then started planning. We decided to go around Vancouver first; check out downtown where all the people are and maybe a couple of places near Richmond. One place I found rather amusing was Steveston Town. Now this town was a fishing village if Im not mistaken; so it had a beautiful wharf where fishing boats and small yachts were docked, and little restaurants around. Not only that, Steveston Town was also the place where the series “Once Upon A Time” was filmed – being an avid watcher, I enjoyed myself there. After scouring the ins and outs of Richmond, we decided to go to Downtown Vancouver. Now this place, regardless of time was bustling with activity. We went to the convention center, where this awesome aquarium is, as I was told; then we went to Gas Town, this place with their roads made of brick and their vintage buildings and lamp posts. There were so many things to see then, its just that sadly, time wasn’t something we had. Our first week basically comprised of Allen touring us around Richmond and Downtown Vancouver. We tried out the Chinese, which is surprisingly better than most back in the Philippines and other food establishments – and the poutine, that wonderful creation was probably the best and most sinful thing Ive had...ever. The next part of the trip was Calgary. At first, we decided to take a plane trip but then my dad was feeling a bit adventurous so we rented a van and went on our merry way – or so we thought. A 12 hour drive, on the straightest roads I have ever experienced was probably the most Wanderer Magazine |45
ridiculous thing I have ever experienced. Despite the awesome scenery of plains and mountains, driving straight for 12 hours, while maintaining a speed of 100kph is something you wouldn’t and shouldn’t wish for. After that ridiculously tiring drive, we finally arrived in Calgary. We stayed in Staybridge Suits in Sunridge near the airport and there we just settled ourselves in bed and just melted away to sleep. Now unlike Vancouver, here in Calgary, we didn’t have someone to guide us around. Lucky for us, my dad frequented this place for work so he knew a couple of places worth visiting – like Banff. Now Banff was a place definitely worth remembering. The scenery on the drive alone was beautiful and so once we arrived in Banff, that little town by the Rockies, I was just blown away by its beauty and simplicity. There we went up Sulfur Mountain through cable car and just took our time, admiring the best view of the Rockies that Canada is famous for. Another place we went to was the Columbia Ice Fields. Now, walking on a glacier isn’t something you’d find possible – I mean, walking on ice, right? Well, we did walk on it and there is a story behind it. Columbia Ice fields is a collection of 8 glaciers and the one we went to in particular is the Athabasca Glacier. Now this glacier moves 2-3 meters every year and is covered by a lot of snow so walking on it can be quite dangerous. Some unprepared tourists have died in the past because they have fallen into small hidden crevices but as of now, they have remedied that and made walking on the glacier a lot safer. Seeing the vastness of this place leaves you awestruck as you look at the sky meet the snowy horizon, side by side by little mountains. Canada to me isn’t something that would meet your expectations, it creates new and better ones. Seeing the land, meeting the people and immersing myself in what they do everyday has made me experience a side Canada doesn’t show to everyone. I must say that I am excited to return and experience more of its culture and to explore more of its bountiful lands.
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My name is Hans Fausto. I am a freelance photographer and a photography major in the College of Saint Benilde currently on my last term. I also studied Culinary Arts in the International School For Culinary Arts and Hotel Management. I have hopes to be a well-known food photographer and stylist with the knowledge I have acquired through the years and I have a dream to travel around the world, experiencing every culture, its tastes and its land. I like playing video games, building plastic kit models, playing guitar, cooking and spending my time in books. I am 25 years of age and love every challenge that life offers me. You can find Hans at: www.hansfausto.wix.com/hfphotography TUMBLR – hansfausto.tumblr.com Instagram - instagram.com/hansus Twitter - twitter.com/justcallmehans Wanderer Magazine |47
ASSOS: TURKISH COASTAL MAGIC WORDS & photographs Tracey Heppner
Its modern name is Behramkale but most people still call this quaint little seaside village by its ancient name: Assos. Located on the coast of the Adramyttian Gulf, Assos’ magical charm and beauty captures you as soon as you arrive. Many of the old buildings of Assos are in ruins but the city remains very active. There is a port as well as boat tours and tours of the hamlet itself.
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http://www.muze.gov.tr/ assos-en#
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Outdoor dining at the ASSOS NAZLIHAN HOTEL.
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We stayed at the Assos Nazlihan Hotel during our FYH Experience in 2013. It featured breathtaking sea views of the Aegean and the Greek island of Lesvos in the background. The hotel had a rustic, homey feel to it and having breakfast right on the boardwalk along the water’s
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edge was absolutely amazing as the sun began to rise to a new day. I think it is safe to say that during the summer months, this was most likely a great place to relax and enjoy the sun from a patio or deck and sunbathe...at least I know I would! When I was there in November, the remnants of summer fun still remained, and you could almost imagine and hear the sounds of laughter and chatting and glasses clinking together as families and friends enjoyed their vacation in this town. I loved this place so much that my next trip - THE OLD VILLAGES coming this Oct 25 - Nov 5 - has a stopover at Assos Nazilihan once more. I definitely recommend it! http://assosnazlihan.com/
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VENEZIA: Aqua Alta photographs tracey heppner
As promised, WANDERER will always have a feature on my beloved Venice. This issue has moments from a visit I took there during Aqua Alta, or high water, during the fall months leading to winter. Enjoy. xx
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SUMMERTIME in baguio
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PHOTOGRAPHS TRACEY HEPPNER
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TAAL, PHILIPPINES
Much travel has happened for me in the last few months and to decide which to feature in the issues of WANDERER is always a challenge, to say the least! One of my most recent discoveries is a town just outside of Manila, Philippines by the name of Taal. It has the oldest Catholic church in Asia, along with maintaining its Spanish charm much like it did centuries ago. Join me in my next issue to see this and many more amazing places throughout the globe! xoxo
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COMING IN OUR NEXT ISSUE
CAPPADOCIA, TURKEY TAAL TOWN, PHILIPPINES UMBRIA, ITALY VANCOUVER, CANADA
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travel, culture & the world around us
Would you like to contribute through writing or photographs for an article? Or how about sending us your postcards for our WITH LOVE FROM feature? You can also be a guest writer for our WANDER WITH ME column. Simply email us at: wanderermag@gmail.com We would love for you to wander with us.
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