Wanderlust, Issue 228 (August/September 2023)

30 Years Of Taking The Road Less Travelled

SOLO JOURNEYS

The ultimate guide

Laos by rail California trip planner Ancient Menorca First-time Antarctica Hawaii escapes

FEATURES

72Gabon

Around 88% of this Central African nation issmothered in forest, yet if you have the patiencetoexplore, itsvast junglesyield a lost Edenwhere sightingsofgorillasand forest elephants make it all worthwhile

88 First-TimeAntarctica

As the number of travellers in Antarctica tops 100,000 in a single year, more and more people are getting to glimpse the White Continent for the first time. We sent our own Antarctic rookie to see what newcomers can expect to encounter

108 California: Trip Planner

Where do you begin? The celluloid streets of Los Angeles?

The gold-rush towns of the north? The rocky wonderland of Yosemite? Save yourself time by plotting the perfect West Coast escape with our tripplanner

124Brittany&Cornwall

There are tales of Arthurian legend on bothsides of the

52 Hawaii Nicaragua 194

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DISCOVER

184World Heritage

Switzerland's verticalvineyards prove that the only way is up

186MuseumCities

Why Tokyo'smuseumssum up thiseclectic city ina nutshell

188 European Break

How Saxonyshed its industrial ambitionsto reclaim the mantle of Germany's cultural gem

194IndigenousCulture

Nicaragua'svibrantcoastal communities are hanging by a thread but offer visitorsso much

196 UrbanSpotlight

A two-city tour of Texasconjures somesurprisingly different takes on therugged Lone Star State

202 British Break

English Channel, but which (if any) are true? The lines between myth and history blur on visits to the castles and lakes of Tintagel and Broceliande Forest

138 How To TravelSolo

Takecharge of your solo adventures withthese tips andtricks

fromseasonedtravel writers usedto lookingafter themselves

154Menorca

Gaze past pristine shores and blue seas to discover anisland where traditional crafts and Bronze Age sites offer a rare glimpse of its earliestsettlers

Vineyardsand wetlandreserves prove there's moreto the Essex coast thankiss-me-quick hats

209 WanderlustQuiz

Test your travelknowledge of the world's great hikingroutes

210 TopGuide

Meet the goldwinner of this year's World Guide Awards

88 Antarctica

India 34

186 Tokyo

AlUla, Saudi Arabia

Outdoor art always works best when it plays with its environment, forcing you to see the world in fresh and unique ways. When that setting is also a rugged desert speckled with wind-sculpted rocks, just 20km from the sand-sunk ruins of a long-past civilisation, then the potential for magic happens. This was the challenge for Desert X AlUla, a recurring outdoor exhibition that takes Saudi Arabia’s arid north-west as its muse. Works such as Rashed AlShashai’s ‘A Concise Passage’, which invited visitors to stroll its Tron-like pyramid as if meandering the heart of any wadi, encouraged us to contemplate this old land anew – in this case, through a futuristic prism. It’s just one image from Jérôme Garcin’s new book, AlUla Ever, which looks at a region still adapting to modern visitors and finding new ways to tell ancient stories. Both remind us that even places as old as AlUla are still making their own history. © Lance Gerber/Courtesy of the artist and Desert X AlUla. AlUla Ever by Jérôme Garcin (Assouline; £85) is out in August; eu.assouline.com

Cape Byron, Byron Bay, Australia

The first inch of Australian coast to be lit by the rising sun, as it levitates slowly over the Pacific, is Byron Bay. To be precise: Cape Byron, the most easterly point in the country, where a 19th-century lighthouse still shines out over the shore. The area’s outdoor life offers a glimpse of Australia at its most laid-back, as seen in Shannon Fricke’s new book, Byron Bay. But this land has a history that dates back long before the surfers and new-age healers arrived, one that is slowly being reclaimed by its Traditional Owners. After local consultation, Cape Byron may soon be known as Walgun, meaning ‘shoulder’, the traditional Aboriginal name given to this ancient gathering site by the Bundjalung of Byron Bay (or Arakwal), while nearby Julian Rocks – home to a vast marine reserve – could become Nguthungulli. It’s part of an admirable country-wide effort to preserve cultural traditions that have long been buried under Western names. Soon enough, the sun could be rising over a whole new coast. © EyeEm/Alamy. Byron Bay by Shannon Fricke (Assouline; £85) is out in August; eu.assouline.com

Giving back

Travel can take us out of our comfort zone and catapult us into another world. It brings us face to face with the natural environments that we only see in documentaries; with cultures that we barely catch a glimpse of on the news; with wildlife that we’ve only encountered in books; and with traditions that we’ve yet to learn about. We can come to understand different ways of living through travel, and are often invited to engage in unique, sometimes life-changing encounters. If we allow it to be, travel can be enriching, liberating and an education like no other. Yet it could be doing so much more.

Why does a global industry worth an estimated £6 trillion give so little back to the people who are the backbone of these experiences? With much of the income from tourism funnelled towards international brands, very little is left for the local communities that welcome us. There are examples everywhere. According to the 2021 documentary The Last Tourist, only an estimated 14% of every dollar of tourist income remains in Kenya, while the majority of this income is distributed across foreignowned hotels and suppliers.

Yet, when tourism money does makes its way into local communities there are myriad benefits. Businesses are able to invest in training and skill development, leading to a rise in employment levels; young people are inspired to focus on their own futures; and workplaces can become safe spaces for women in difficult family circumstances, empowering them to be independent. This positive chain effect can go even further, too. A community that has good infrastructure, steady employment rates and opportunities to progress has the means to protect its surroundings, rather than turning to quick-fix ways of securing an income, such as wildlife poaching.

The truth is: how we spend our money while travelling can have a make-or-break effect on the communities we visit, and we owe it to our hosts to be more conscientious about where our tourism cash goes. So, how do we ensure our money is put in the right hands when travelling?

Perhaps the most powerful method of giving back is to actively support the local economy as we travel. Rather than staying at familiar chain hotels or branded resorts, reserve a room at community-owned accommodation. Guesthouses, inns, farm stays and B&Bs tend to be rooted in the community and usually offer a more personable experience, with traveller reviews typically providing a great way to gauge what to expect from your accommodation. Similarly, eating and drinking at local bars and restaurants (especially in field-to-fork establishments), rather than at a resort, feeds directly into the local economy, just as buying souvenirs from craft centres and

markets supports regional artisans, empowering them to potentially develop their own businesses.

This attitude extends to planning your trip as well. If booking through a tour operator, opt for a company that partners with local businesses. This will ensure that income goes back into the host communities. Operators who invest in vital initiatives and local groups typically have a better understanding of the region; they will also proudly promote their work through impact reports and detailed descriptions of their social initiatives, so they are often easier to root out and find online.

Tour operator Experience Travel Group, for example, runs a social enterprise scheme that works with local restaurants in South-East Asia. This not only introduces travellers to delicious local cuisine, but income from their meals goes towards youth training within the hospitality sector. Similarly, G Adventures’ non-profit partner programme, Planeterra, invests in initiatives that support marginalised communities, such as Delhi’s ‘Women With Wheels’, a female-run taxi service that trains and employs Indian women from resource-poor backgrounds.

Local operators can also provide a donations list on request, allowing travellers to bring useful goods – from books and stationery to women’s hygiene products and sports bras – to serve the needs of a community. The international Pack for a Purpose programme (see sidebar) also teams up with local businesses to offer drop-off points for donations on arrival. By giving back in these small yet empowering ways, we can ensure everyone benefits from tourism. Try it on your next trip; you won’t regret it.

WHY VOLUNTOURISM IS NOT THE ANSWER

While most voluntourists are well-intentioned, some projects exploit local people. In Cambodia, for example, there have been instances of families living in poverty being persuaded to place their children in ‘orphanages’ in exchange for handouts. These so-called orphanages then charge tourists to live on-site, play with the kids and teach them English, all without any security checks or need for childcare qualifications. In turn, the children can develop attachment disorders thanks to the quick turnaround of people. Sadly, the number of such places in Cambodia has risen in line with tourism over the last 30 years, according to the documentary The Last Tourist. A better way to help is to support local businesses so that people can look after themselves.

Karen Edwards looks at the most powerful ways you can support places and communities as you travel, so you can give back more effectively

“In Kenya, only an estimated 14% of every tourist dollar remains in the country”

Alamy; AWL Images

Keeping it local (clockwise from top) While Kenya may be struggling to keep its tourism dollars in-house, the growth of safari conservancies in places like the Masai Mara has been a boon to the Maasai people, as they benefit directly from lodge stays and are, in turn, incentivised to protect the local wildlife; staying at a homestay can ensure your money remains within the local community; supporting local businesses can have an empowering effect; craft markets, including this one in Eswatini, are a great way to help traditional artisans keep dying crafts alive

A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO GIVING BACK

1 Book locally owned accommodation and avoid big chains and all-inclusive resorts that filter revenue away from the community.

2 Eat at local restaurants and shop at local stores to help community businesses prosper.

3 Travel with an operator that details its positive initiatives. If unsure, always ask: how do you support the local community? An ethical operator will have a comprehensive answer.

4 Tailor donations to suit the communities that you visit with the ‘Pack for a Purpose’ scheme (packforapurpose.org), and only take supplies that are actually needed.

5 Avoid commercially motived voluntourism projects. If you choose to volunteer, do so because that specific initiative has a genuine need at the time and it happens to coincide with your visit.

POSITIVE NEWS: RECOGNISING AUSTRALIA’S PAST

One of Australia’s most famous islands (formerly Fraser Island) has reinstated its Indigenous name, K’gari. Located off the Queensland coast, this UNESCO World Heritage site has been cared for by the Aboriginal Butchulla community for over 20,000 years.

Hawaiian havens

Say ‘aloha’ to Hawaii Island’s most storied stays, where historic royal towns, ancient ruins and a landscape carved by raw volcanic power offer a backdrop every bit as enticing as the accommodation

Reviewed by Jeanne Cooper

Beyond the sands There’s more to Hawaii Island than its shoreline. The Four Seasons Resort Hualalai may boast a pristine setting, but it can also arrange unique cultural encounters that let you explore beyond its shores

COURTYARD KING KAMEHAMEHA’S KONA BEACH HOTEL

King Kamehameha the Great, who unified the Hawaiian islands in 1810, held councils by Kamakahonu Cove in Kailua-Kona – the small beach in front of the hotel – until his death in 1819.Today, performers dressed in royal attire arrive via outrigger to the hotel’s luau, while the lobby has portraits of Hawaii’s ali‘i (royalty) and paintings by revered cultural historian Herb Kawainui Kāne. Some of the 452 recently renovated rooms have views of the Mokuaikaua Church (the first in the islands), Hualalai volcano and the Hulihe‘e Palace, a summer palace-turned-museum that reflects the decline of Hawaii’s royalty in the 20th century. The two hotel restaurants offer good value, but the coffee bar and shaved ice stand are tastier. Rooms from around £319 per night, excluding breakfast; konabeachhotel.com

HOLUALOA INN

One of few B&Bs left on the island, this lodge lies south of Kailua-Kona and sits high above the ocean on a 12-hectare farm filled with 5,300 coffee trees and lavish foliage. Owners Paul and Cassandra Hazen sell their Kona coffee under the Brazen Hazen label, and you can get a custom cup every morning with your garden-sourced breakfast in the ocean-view dining room. Check out the art in the Great Room, then make the most of the vistas from the hilltop pool and gazebo. Guest rooms have ocean, garden or pool views, but be prepared for the nightly chirp of tree frogs. When you’re not gazing out to sea, visit the nearby HN Greenwell Store Museum, one of the oldest buildings on the island, which delves into the area’s agricultural history. Rooms from around £460 per night (minimum two nights), including breakfast; holualoainn.com

Alamy; Jumping Rocks Inc; Courtyard by Marriott

Life in the fast lane

Now that a new high-speed train is opening up corners of Laos once served only by buses, how will life change in the laid-back nation where slow travel has always been the norm?

Words Claire Boobbyer

Sculpting history (left) Xieng Khuan Buddha Park features some 200 sculptures of varying shapes and sizes depicting figures from both Buddhist and Hindu traditions. Despite its ancient look, the park was created in 1958 by Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, a yogi-priest shaman. Flooding from the Mekong has contributed to the rather dilapidated state of some of the statues, though it only adds to its mystique

dropping over 2 million tonnes of ordnance between 1964 and 1973. The aim? To stop the Communists – the Viet Cong and the People’s Army of Vietnam – using the Ho Chi Minh Trail. During this time, around 80 million of the 260 million cluster bombs dropped on Laos failed to explode on impact; now they remain a constant threat to locals.

“One third of the country is still unsafe,” explained Khamchan Phetsouphan, communications officer at the Vientiane visitor centre for COPE, an NGO helping those scarred and maimed by the bombs. “People are still suffering, and about 300 are killed or injured each year.”

Landmine detonators British MAG and UXO Laos are working to cleanse the land, but the terrible toll from these devices became horrifically clear during my time at the centre. It was one of many unexpected discoveries that I made in the capital, knowing that my next rail stop was barely an hour’s journey and I had plenty of time to explore.

I wandered the city with Boun as he unravelled more of its past, including the tragic events of 1828, when the Siamese crossed the Mekong and burnt Vientiane to ashes, destroying centuries of history. The royal palace and many temples were erased, and it was only under the French, who ruled here from 1893 to 1953, that the capital revived.

Today, Vientiane is a city of villages (bans) similar to those of London, but with a wat (temple) at the heart of each. Here, Buddhism and modernity are entwined. Saffron-robed monks clutched mobile phones as they walked past SUVs mounted on pavements; French villas – once colonial offices – are now dwarfed by glassy high rises.

At the centre of all this was the familiar sight of Pha That Luang, a giant stupa tipped in gold. I’d seen it before, but paused to look closer. It was first built in 1566 but was destroyed during the Siamese attack.The French restored it to its original design; now it’s a symbol of the country – “It’s found on bank notes too,” Boun reminded me.

With time on my hands, we stopped to fuel up at Doi Ka Noi, which is run by chef Noi, the first Lao member of the Slow Food movement. I had first tasted her oua hua si khai (pork-stuffed lemongrass) a few years ago; today her stuffed stalks, which resemble lotus buds packed with shallots and sauces, were as delicious as I remembered. Given my lunch tomorrow would be from the catering carriage of the train, I savoured every bite.

The US$6 billion Laos-China Railway is a joint venture between the two nations, but the majority of the money for it comes from China as part of its Belt and Road Initiative, which aims to boost its trade network in Asia and Europe. There is more at stake ⊲

Alamy

forest of eden Into the

Not for nothing is Gabon dubbed ‘The Last Eden’. Its dense forests are a bastion for some of Africa’s rarest species – you just need patience to see them

Words & photographs William Gray

The Red Sea

Travel built for the future

Saudi Arabia’s newest destination combines sustainability, accessibility, adventure and ambition in one future-thinking travel hotspot

Above and below (this page; top to bottom) The Red Sea will have marine adventures both above and beneath the surface; the Red Sea International Airport's design was inspired by nature

The newest luxury destination in Saudi Arabia will open to visitors year-round in 2023 on the north-western coast of the Kingdom. The Red Sea, a pioneering regenerative travel oasis, is set inside a 28,000 sq km expanse, home to Al Wahj lagoon, over 90 pristine islands and the fourth-largest barrier reef in the world. Here, a network of 50 resorts, all powered by 100% renewable solar energy, form your base to explore sandy beaches lapped by clear, shallow waters, as well as mangrove forests, dormant volcanoes, mountain canyons and an ancient desert.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

As well as connecting The Red Sea to the world, the newly opened Red Sea International Airport (RSI) takes its design cues from the surrounding desertscape and is set

to become the world’s leading sustainable air transport operation. Five mini-terminals, each resembling dune-like shells, stretch out from the airport’s central welcome area, providing shade and natural ventilation. This has allowed the designers to curb air-conditioning use. The airport also faces north to minimise the amount of direct sunlight hitting the building structure.

Once off the plane, travellers can expect a seamless luxury resort experience. Landscaped gardens will serve as a lush, reimagined jet bridge on your way to the hotellike welcome centre. From there you will head to your resort in an electric-powered vehicle, boat or hydrogenfuelled seaplane; your smart-tagged luggage will go directly to its destination, eliminating crowded queues.

You can fly to The Red Sea from Jeddah (less than an hour) or Riyadh (an hour and a half), while direct flights from the UK will take approximately seven hours.

First-time

Antarctica

With visitor numbers rising on the White Continent, many people are now experiencing it for the first time. We sent our own Antarctic novice to see what they can expect

Words & photographs George Kipouros

and, at last. A dense fog afforded only glimpses of an ethereal landscape of snow, ice and rock. An unmistakable sense of achievement flooded over me; one of those moments in travel when you feel more alive than ever. After all, this was the White Continent that lay ahead of us, the most remote and inaccessible landmass on the planet.

For most travellers attempting to reach West Antarctica, the quickest way is by sailing a narrow stretch of sea where the Atlantic entangles with the Pacific and the Southern Ocean. It is rarely smooth going, and only possible in the warmer months. But after two challenging days crossing the infamous Drake Passage, whose strong winds and rough seas are the stuff of legend, we were approaching Elephant Island, some 250km off the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.

The continent’s inaccessibility, coupled with weather conditions so harsh that life really shouldn’t exist here, has always been part of its mystique. Against all odds, a unique endemic ecosystem has thrived for millennia. It’s no wonder that Antarctica has overtaken human imagination ever since Aristotle first theorised its existence in the 4th century BC. He saw that the north lay under the constellation Arktos (the Great Bear/Ursa Major), and surmised the existence of a mirror image of the world he knew, a giant southern landmass he called Antarktos (opposite of the north).

It was a long time between then and when Captain James Cook became the first recorded navigator to cross the Antarctic Circle in January 1773; and longer still before Roald Amundsen became the first to reach the South Pole in December 1911. Their stories, as well as many other heroic tales of human perseverance, endurance and disaster, have only furthered the myths that swirl the White Continent as freely as the wind.

This is more than just a bucket-list destination; even setting foot here is to join some of humanity’s greatest explorers in reaching one of the most inhospitable corners of our planet. So it was only fitting that we had arrived at Elephant Island on the day of the 101st anniversary of the death of Ernest Shackleton, one of the greatest explorers to chart the continent. It was here that he had left his crewmates to go in search of rescue after their ship, Endurance, had been crushed by the polar ice. Shackleton’s crew had used the island as their own personal larder, eating penguins and seals to survive. We had far more benign intentions, so had gathered in the amphitheatre of our ship, Silver Cloud, for a mandatory briefing on what we could and couldn’t do during our time here, based on guidelines set out by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO; see p101).

“This is a fragile ecosystem under extreme threat from climate change and human activities, so we have to tread very carefully,” began Schalk Botha, our South Africa-born expedition leader, before outlining the numerous rules and regulations aimed at protecting the fauna and landscape. Prophetically, Schalk also went to great lengths to explain how unpredictable our time on the continent would be: “The weather changes every second, and that means our plans may too. You need to be prepared for changes, even when we are on the ground or in the middle of an activity.”

He also finished the opening session with a warning: “Antarctica is the highest, driest, windiest and coldest continent in the world, so dress and behave accordingly!”

I was buzzing with excitement. I was finally about to begin exploring this continent of superlatives.

THE UNPREDICTABLE CHRONICLES

Soon after the briefing ended, we got our first taste of what would become a frequent pattern over the next 12 days.

“Our Zodiac tour of Elephant Island has to be cancelled due to high winds causing waves over 3m high, which are expected to worsen,” boomed Schalk over the internal PA.

Antarctica’s unpredictable weather is why we didn’t have a set itinerary before boarding. Instead, in an approach reminiscent of the days of the early explorers, a printed journal (The Daily Chronicles) was delivered, featuring an outline of the following day’s ‘intended’ activities and plans.

The next morning, however, we arrived at Brown Bluff on the Tabarin Peninsula to even worse conditions. Schalk went on the intercom again to announce the cancellation of the landing – the first planned mainland excursion. Every part of my body was itching to get ashore; Antarctica’s frozen wonders were waiting just outside my veranda.

This was my first time ever on a cruise ship, not least an expedition ship, and I had chosen the Silver Cloud, the original vessel of luxury operator Silversea. In truth, I had been wary of becoming restless with all the time spent at sea, but to my surprise, there wasn’t a moment that I was bored, and my simple anti-nausea ginger pills worked wonders. Not only was the satellite-powered free wifi reliable, but the food in the four restaurants was exquisite, as was the gym and complimentary spa facilities. Yet it wasn’t any of these elements that made the all-suite Silver Cloud truly luxurious. That honour derived from the 35 scientists, historians and naturalists who joined us on the expedition.

During our sail across the Drake Passage, and upon every cancelled activity, we received insightful lectures introducing us to all aspects of the continent, ranging from early explorer history and underwater geology to marine biology and the impact of climate change. But I had not come all the way down to the Scotia Sea just to attend a series of talks, and the real prize remained stepping ashore in the company of our experienced lecturers.

In the afternoon of our fourth day spent onboard, Antarctica’s weather started to behave and we finally got our first taste of the continent’s true magnificence in Hope Bay. As my 12-strong Zodiac group departed the Silver Cloud, the actual clouds and haze suddenly cleared to reveal a panorama of peaks, glaciers and icebergs. This was a landscape unlike anything I’d seen before, and even more wondrous than my visits to the Arctic region.

Complementing the fantastical landscape was an unexpected highlight: a leopard seal enjoying the sunshine on top of a small iceberg. Just as we gently approached, it yawned, allowing us a fearful glimpse of its massive jaws. This elusive animal is among the most dangerous predators to be found in these waters, second only to the mighty orca.

This Zodiac tour was just the prelude though, as the following day we at last achieved our first landing, on an island in Curtiss Bay. It started with a bang and my first

“Antarctica is the highest, driest, windiest and coldest continent in the world“

Predator and prey (clockwise from top left) Amiable gentoo penguins roam freely around the base at Port Lockroy and show little fear of the various humans who turn up there; a gang of curious gentoos swim alongside a boat as it pulls into Curtiss Bay; a leopard seal – one of the most prolific predators of penguins in Antarctic waters – belies its fierce reputation by taking it easy on a pack of floating ice in Hope Bay

chance to come face to face with Antarctica’s most famous residents: penguins, specifically the gentoo species.

A lecture the night before by naturalist Damon Ramsey had introduced us to the different species of penguin, including the three we were expecting to see: gentoo, adélie and chinstrap. I also discovered that the most photogenic species, the emperor penguin, was rarely found on the Antarctic Peninsula, the most accessible tip of the continent.

While I couldn’t wait for my first penguin encounter, leaving the ship was a time-consuming process. Preparing for the continent’s harsh weather meant putting on multiple layers of clothing and gear (see p101), starting with insulated thermal underwear and continuing all the way up to the mandatory lifejacket and heavy-duty boots. Getting ready took me almost 20 minutes on my first endeavour, improving to a personal best of six minutes on my final outing. Before and after, great care was taken to sterilise our boots, so we would not transfer any of our pathogens onto Antarctica – or bring any of the penguin poo back onboard.

Our very first landing was also the most challenging of the trip. The crew formed a human chain to help guests from the Zodiacs across the rocky and slippery coastline.

“It’s worth it. Keep going; you’re safe and we’re holding on to you,” encouraged Nil Rodes, the ship’s marine geoscientist, as he cheered on a younger guest who was a little uncertain of whether she could make it ashore.

“If we are not 100% sure of everyone’s safety, Schalk will always cancel the landing,” affirmed Nil. He told me that it also comes down to every individual’s comfort levels. Before each landing, we were given a thorough description of what we would encounter and the level of difficulty; it was up to each passenger to decide whether they would join or not. By this point, I would happily have skipped barefoot across the ice to set foot on land or glimpse its wildlife.

THE PENGUIN AFFAIR

“Your first encounter with penguins is something you’ll remember for the rest of your life,” smiled Nil as we walked towards the rookery and its hundreds of birds.

Penguins are at their best in the water, and often appear rather imbalanced, if not downright clumsy, on land. It seemed as if they were really struggling to be there.

“That is why they stick to their self-made penguin highways,” explained Nil, showing the paths that they formed by following each other’s trails.

One can watch penguins for hours and never see a single moment of stillness. They also do not perceive humans as a threat; they just keep going about their own business no matter what.We witnessed how they built their pebble nests, and saw their attempts at stealing pebbles from each other.

“They are simply recycling,” smiled Nil. I was unconvinced their cheeky behaviour was truly benevolent.

Added to the list of things I wasn’t expecting from my first penguin encounter was the horrible smell. It was especially potent when approaching a rookery, and unlike anything I’d come across before. “Eau d’Antarctica” is how a fellow traveller described it. The mix of vomit (how they feed their chicks) and penguin poop made for a scent that belied the overall cuteness of everything else that they did.

On Petermann Island the following day, we saw adélie and gentoo penguins. It was also our first sighting of elephant seals, whose lethargic nature was at odds with the bustling and noisy penguin rookery they rested beside.

Bringing Death Valley to life

The view from Zabriskie Point in Death Valley National Park gazes out beyond the badlands to the Panamint Mountains. If you arrive just before sunset, the colours in the rock can look spectacular

CALIFORNIA

Plan your perfect escape around the Golden State’s cultured cities, celebrated winelands and wild fringes with our trip planner

Words

Cheryl Crabtree

Standing the test of time

Gazing out over the southern California coast and Santa Barbara’s Stearn’s Wharf, which became the longest deep-water pier in the area between Los Angeles and San Francisco when it was completed 1872

KING ARTHURS

The story of King Arthur has roots on both sides of the English Channel, where parts of Cornwall and Brittany blur the lines of myth and history as you walk among legends

Words Andrew Eames

Best foot forward (left) The two halves of Tintagel were reunited with the opening of a new footbridge in 2019 that crosses the gorge, making the ruins accessible to all travellers; (previous spread) the bronze Gallos sculpture by Rubin Eynon is a popular sight at Tintagel, though it was castigated when it was first erected in 2016 by those who complained about the ‘Disneyfication’ of the site

On a cliff overlooking a surging sea in North Cornwall, the figure of a 2.4m-high metal knight in ephemeral robes stands resting his hands on his sword and gazing southwards. He may have seen something that we mere mortals cannot, because if you were to follow his eyes some 300km as the crow flies, you’d spot a trio of similarly huge metal men in a wooded glade in the village of Néant-sur-Yvel in Brittany, France, each seated at a circular table that looks achingly familiar. It’s a scene that has been torn from legends and stories told time and again.

These figures may be in different countries, but all four are part of the same mythology: the tale of King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table. While there’s no mistaking the seated trio of Arthur, Kay and Gawain in France, the Cornish statue is harder to place, and has been nominally titled Gallos (Cornish for ‘power’). But given that it stands on Tintagel Island (aka Camelot), a site up to its gauntlets in Arthurian legend, the majority of people who stand before it all come to the same conclusion as to its identity.

In the UK, we tend to think of King Arthur as ours.Yet the French have a similar idea, even going so far as to include Arthurian texts on their school curriculum. The reason is that the legend’s sources are in both English and French, and the two countries have their own charismatic Arthurian locations. Add to this the idea that Arthur may well never

have existed, and it made me all the more curious to explore the two halves of a story told on both sides of the Channel. The facts, if there were ever any, are lost in the mists of time. When the Gallos statue was first unveiled at Tintagel in 2016, there were those who criticised its commissioners (English Heritage) for ‘Disneyfying’ Cornwall and muddying fact with fiction.That didn’t bother the business owners in Tintagel village, where even the car parks have names such as ‘Sword in the Stone’ and there’s barely a shop that doesn’t have a bucketful of plastic Excalibur swords outside. The whole settlement has an Arthur-based economy.

The village sits back from the coast, its straggle of a main street lined with shops selling Cornish pasties, magical minerals and polished helmets. The original community here was called Trevena, but it didn’t have sufficient good looks to waylay passing motorists, so it rebranded when Arthur-mania became big business in the mid-19th century.

As for Tintagel Castle itself, its dramatic location and gripping legend attracts a staggering 350,000 visitors every year, who are unlikely to go away disappointed. The ruins of the building, created for Richard Earl of Cornwall in the 13th century AD, stand on a promontory that has all but been cleaved in two by the weather over the centuries. Precipitous pathways snake up and down the rocks, although the recent addition of a footbridge has helped to make the castle remains more accessible to everyone.

It was a wild place to build a castle, but it was probably also largely symbolic, said Win Scutt, English Heritage’s senior properties curator, as he showed me around.

Alamy

“In the UK, we tend to think of King Arthur as ours. Yet the French have a similar idea“

Dinner for two, three, four… (clockwise from top left) The Danish are streets ahead when it comes to friendly ways to meet strangers; Copenhagen is filled with chances to mingle with the locals, from waterside walking tours to paying a visit to its ‘Human Library’; communal dining is a great way to meet someone and have a good meal

Sociable solo-ing

Trust the Danes to have a word for it. Squished onto a table in Copenhagen’s hip Vesterbro neighbourhood, I wasn’t just eating, I was fællesspisning. This concept of ‘communal dining’ is an old tradition that is experiencing a modern revival in Denmark. At Folkehuset Absalon (absaloncph.dk) – a deconsecrated church turned community centre – big, cheap, tasty suppers are served daily. You and your tablemates collect your own cutlery, then chat away as you dollop stew and pineapple cake onto each other’s plates. There’s no telling who you’ll be sitting next to – old, young, couples, groups, fellow solos – but everyone comes with a willingness to engage. By the end of the meal, I had a notebook full of tips, and I’d avoided that most awkward of solo-travel moments: dining alone. Indeed, the ways in which lone travellers can meet others is becoming increasingly inventive. While in Copenhagen I joined a ‘Social Sailing’ trip with Hey Captain (heycaptain.dk) – part scenic tour of the waterways, part genial inter-

action with fellow passengers. I joined locals for free yoga by the harbour (though that was more silent camaraderie than social function) and I mingled at my classy hotel’s daily happy hour, where free wine was poured and guests were encouraged to mix.

But most extraordinary was a visit to the Human Library (humanlibrary.org), a worldwide social-change movement designed to provoke eye-opening discussions. It was founded in Copenhagen in 2000, and there’s a permanent ‘library’ in the city’s Nørrebro district where, on set days, you can come and borrow a book or two – ‘books’ being people with stories to share. Forget “So where do you come from?” – this is not traveller small-talk. At the Human Library you’re likely to fall into conversation about anything from transgender issues to autism, to politics. I spent half an hour with Meike, who told me about her harrowing childhood. It was comfort-zone smashing, thought-provoking, perspective-altering stuff. Just what travel is all about. SB

EXPERT TIP

Joining the right group tour means you will be with likeminded people, and can even result in lifelong friendships. Ask your travel company about the make-up of the group you are considering and whether you will have your own room or will have to share.

Alamy; Shutterstock

TIPS FOR SOCIABLE SOLOS

1 Find friends

Use an app to connect. Sites like frienderapp.com, bumble.com/bff and heyvina.com (women only) are like Tinder for platonic friend-making. Or try meetup.com, searching by location, date and activity to meet likeminded people getting together to do everything from hiking to playing boardgames.

2 Eat with others

Many countries have equivalents to fællesspisning. Look for local restaurants offering group meals. Also try eatwith.com or bonappetour.com, which list locals hosting dinners and cooking classes.

3 Investigate evening options

Evenings can be the trickiest times for solos. Rather than hiding in your room, check listings websites and noticeboards for alternatives, such as flamenco shows, live music bars, poetry readings or group runs at the local sports shop. When there’s a focus to the night, it’s easier to start chatting to others. And even if you don’t, you’ll be entertained.

4 Join a group

Book yourself on a smallgroup walk, pasta-making workshop, sumo class –whatever! – to meet others. See toursbylocals.com for ideas. Consider booking a tour for later in the day; you might find someone to go to dinner with after you’re done.

The first time I set off on a round-theworld trip, I had prepared myself for a series of life-changing adventures. What I hadn’t expected was that while my senses were being bombarded by new sights, sounds and smells, my constantly racing mind would finally slow down. As a naturally anxious person, I am perhaps not the obvious candidate for solo travel. However, over the years, I have found that it is the single most useful tool I have to help my mental health.

In 2012, I decided to take a grown-up gap year, due to feeling burnt out and stuck in the hamster wheel of eat, sleep, work, repeat. While planning the nine-month trip left me wracked with anxiety, I found that taking the journey gave me the time that I’d been longing for to focus on myself.

As I made my way through South America and across Asia, I discovered that being away from the stresses of work, bills and relationships gave me the time to concentrate on my mental health. One important lesson I learnt was what a difference spending time in nature made.

I also believe there’s few things in life that truly make you live in the moment; however, when your mind is being wowed by a country’s beauty spots while navigating its transport system and juggling new currencies and languages, there is little time to worry about anything else. It’s one of the reasons I continue to travel solo, even though I’m now married with children.

Dr Noreen Nguru, founder of the website What The Doctor Recommends, agrees. In 2020, she left the NHS after collapsing at work from severe exhaustion. She went on to found her digital health start-up, which prescribes wellness travel and coaching to people who are at risk of chronic work stress and occupational burnout.

She says: “I encourage people to make full use of their holiday time by thinking about what activities they can do to rejuvenate and replenish themselves, such as finding a holiday that is fun but also focuses on holistic healing.

“I am a big advocate of solo travel. I believe we have to get more confident as a society with focusing on ourselves and our needs.

“Solo travel is a great way to experience self discovery and personal growth. You are making decisions on your own and stepping out of the environment you know. This increases your confidence, independence and wellbeing.” EAE

Eating alone

When it comes to solo travel, there’s no denying the sense of liberation and empowerment it brings. I’ve travelled solo to over 17 countries, and it has been a transformative experience, exploring new places and cultures on my own terms. However, even for seasoned solo travellers like myself, there is a common concern that often arises: the experience of eating alone.

I’ll admit that I used to feel awkward and self-conscious about it too, but over time, I’ve genuinely found joy in dining by myself. It is more common and acceptable to eat alone in some cultures than in others. But observing and embracing local customs can help you feel more comfortable. In Japan, for example, solo diners are often seen eating and drinking at bar counters or slurping on ramen. Dining alone in a restaurant is perfectly normal and has allowed me to clear my mind, reflect, relax and enjoy moments of silence and solitude in my new surroundings while taking it all in.

Whether you’re a solo traveller who wants to explore the local food scene but is nervous about it, or if you just want to enjoy dinner out when friends are away, here are a few tips to embrace and enjoy the experience.

Before your trip, plan ahead and research the local dining scene to find restaurants that cater more easily to solo diners. Choosing places with counter seating or communal tables can help you feel more comfortable. Booking ahead is also essential. A reservation can save you from having to have a back-up plan in the evening, or from hearing ‘table for two’ from the waiter. Like many solo travellers, I find that asking for a table for one can be one of the most daunting aspects of solo dining. Having a reservation means the restaurant will be expecting a single diner, saving you the potential discomfort of having to declare your status.

Look for food and dining experiences that come with entertainment. Enjoying dinner with a cultural show or live music performance helps fill the awkward silences you may feel and can also be good fun. If you’re near a river, lake or coastline, consider

Forget the pills, solo travel could be just the medicine you need

taking a dinner cruise or boat tour, where you can enjoy a scenic journey while relishing a delicious meal onboard. Alternatively, you can keep yourself entertained by bringing a book, magazine, phone or tablet. Having something to occupy your attention can help you feel more at ease and give you something to focus on if you’re feeling self-conscious.

It helps to embrace more laid-back dining options, such as food courts, street food stalls and casual dining joints, which are often more accommodating and welcoming for solo travellers. They provide a relaxed environment where you can enjoy a meal without feeling like you’re on show. Also try striking up a conversation with your server. I enjoy having conversations with them, as they can provide recommendations, share insights about the local cuisine and make you feel more comfortable.

Lastly, take part in food-related activities. You can try cooking classes, wine tastings or even food-related workshops. These not only give you a chance to try new foods but also provide an opportunity to socialise and meet fellow food enthusiasts. JO

Eyes wide open

The moment you go somewhere new, you spot the differences. It doesn’t matter which place you visit, or whether you’ve arrived by plane, train or ferry. Signage may change. Language may change. You may drive on a different side of the street or scratch your head at cryptic menus. New laws and customs may now be in full effect. It can be a shock.

A new land can overwhelm the solo traveller, but it can also be uniquely thrilling. All your senses awaken at once. You must problem-solve alone. You can’t blame anyone else for your mistakes, but you can also claim full credit for every success. Did you puzzle out directions with a taxi driver who doesn’t speak your language? Did you finally find your way to the museum in a strange city? The most trivial task becomes a character-building exercise. And if you want conversation, you may have to strike it up with a stranger.

on your own can be an act of bravery, as you learn the geography of the vessel and mingle with thousands of strangers on open water. Once you start meeting people, you feel a tinge of pride when they ask, incredulous: “Are you travelling alone?”

Solo travel helps cure the numbness of routine. Studies have shown that about half of traffic accidents occur within 8km of home, suggesting that repetitive activities can make us airheaded and reckless. When we visit a new place, we have to notice things again, to keep ourselves from getting lost and confused. We don’t have to venture far to reap the rewards of solo travel; the next town over will do, so long as you’ve never been there before.

Feeling at ease

(clockwise from far right) If you go it solo, you have the joy of deciding everything yourself, so every success is of your own making; Japanese restaurants often have countertops for solo diners to share; having something to do while you dine alone, such as bringing a journal to jot down your thoughts, can make you feel less self-conscious at restaurants

Travelling alone forces us to connect with our surroundings. Companions can be wonderful, but they can also soften the experience. When we always have someone to talk with, we may spend so much time trading plans and jokes and observations that we miss the subtleties around us – and that’s when we like the people we’re travelling with. Alone, you can’t help but immerse yourself in the sights and sounds of a place, the aromas and textures, the hubbub and the stillness.

The word ‘mindfulness’ gets thrown around a lot, but if you’ve ever struggled to meditate or breathe deeply, solo travel is a surefire way to make yourself mindful. You don’t have to hitchhike through Central Asia to feel alert and alive; boarding a luxury cruise ship

When a day of solo travel ends, and you have a cabin or hotel room all to yourself, you can fully reflect on everything you’ve witnessed and done. You own the whole story of your day. You are the hero of your tale. Open your journal, pick up your pen. You alone will decide how it will all be remembered. RI

EXPERT TIP

Travelling out of season not only helps you skip the crowds and avoid family groups, but it opens you up to lower rates and special offers. Look out for trips and accommodation without single supplements during these times.

Written in stone

Menorca’s archaeological sites, ancient crafts and historic coastal trail offer a little-seen glimpse of early life on an island that has horizons far beyond its beautiful sea views

Words Eddi Fiegel

Take the lid off

Explore natural wilderness, fascinating history and tropical islands with this full guide to every corner of Taiwan…

Taiwan is probably one of few countries in Asia that travellers are still largely unfamiliar with. It’s surprising given just how much there is to do here. This is a place of wild landscapes, boundless coastlines and awe-inspiring mountain ranges. Visitors will discover traditional heritage, Indigenous cultures, beautiful temples and a varied cuisine. There are also magnificent hiking trails in the many national parks and scenic reserves, and the opportunities for cycling and kayaking adventures abound. From the ultra-modern skyscrapers of Taipei to the marble gorges of Taroko and the fragmented islands and islets of the Penghu archipelago, Taiwan is simply one of the most rewarding countries you could ever hope to visit.

4

Types of coastline: Taiwan’s four types of coastline are: rocky beach in the north, sandy beach in the west, coral reef in the south and the rift valley in the east.

23.5°

In terms of latitude, Taiwan is positioned approximately between 20° and 25° North. This means the Tropic of Cancer – a geographical line circling the Earth at 23.5° North – cuts right through the heart of Taiwan. There are four Taiwanese cities located on the Tropic of Cancer line: Chiayi, Nantou, Hualien and Penghu.

1 Taiwan No.1: At 508m high, Taipei 101 was the world’s tallest building when it was opened in 2004 – it was only overtaken in 2009.

Universities: Taiwan has the highest density of universities of any country in the world.

16 Indigenous ethnic groups: Taiwan is home to 16 recognised Indigenous ethnic groups, each with a distinct culture, language and traditions. They’ve inhabited the island for thousands of years and have helped shape Taiwan’s diverse heritage.

24-hour food

Taiwan has a vibrant food culture, and its cities are filled with numerous eateries, food stalls and convenience stores that operate round the clock, 24 hours a day.

18 National Forest Recreation Areas: Taiwan is home to 18 protected national forests that offer a diverse mix of things to do for visitors, from hiking and camping to hot springs and cultural experiences.

START IN TAIPEI

Taiwan’s vast capital, Taipei, is an amazing city where modern architecture rubs shoulders with vibrant street markets, top-notch museums, cultural sites and heavenly food. All this is underpinned by an excellent public transport system that will never leave you stuck. It’s a microcosm of many of the best things about Taiwan, except written on a massive scale, making it the perfect introduction to this dazzling and endlessly fascinating country.

HOW TO GET AROUND

Taipei has an excellent public transport network, including an impressively efficient metro system that should, quite frankly, make most other major cities in the world do a walk of shame. Taipei’s metro is known as the MRT (Mass Rapid Transport), and includes a line to Taoyuan International Airport. The best way to buy tickets is via an EasyCard, which can be topped up as required, and is used for MRT and bus journeys as well as in convenience stores.

MUST-SEE HIGHLIGHTS

Standing at just over 508m tall, the Taipei 101 building is Taiwan’s most iconic piece of architecture. When completed in 2004, it was the first building in the world to exceed half a kilometre in height, and it remained the world’s tallest building until the completion of Dubai’s Burji Khalifa in 2009. The National Palace Museum is among Taiwan’s most prestigious museums, and has one of the world’s largest collections of Chinese art, plus a wealth of artistic and cultural treasures. Among its highlights is an impressive jade collection.

Set among beautiful gardens, the imposing Chiang Kai-shek Memorial

Hall was built in honour of Taiwan’s former president, who remains a hugely important figure in the country’s history. Make sure you catch the changing of the guard. Longshan Temple is one of the oldest of its kind in Taipei, built in 1740 and dedicated to worshipping the Guanshiyin Buddha. Don’t miss visiting at least one night market in Taipei – Shilin night market is one of the largest.

WHERE TO EAT

Taipei has such an astonishingly good range of places to eat. From Michelin-starred restaurants to the show-stealing street food in the capital’s vibrant night markets, it’s hard to know where to start. And along with the rest of Taiwan, it also has some of the best vegetarian options you’ll find anywhere. Taipei is the perfect introduction to the world of Taiwanese cuisine. Highlights include Din Tai Fung, which has unbelievably good dumplings; Yansan or Shilin night markets for wonderful street food (several places there having been awarded a Bib Gourmand from Michelin); and Yang Shin for superb vegetarian dishes. You really are spoilt for choice, so your stomach won’t fail to be satisfied.

WHERE TO STAY

Taipei has an range of accommodation to suit pretty much any budget, from luxury stays to hostels. Some good areas to make a base include Ximending District; the upmarket area around Taipei 101; the old streets of Dadaocheng District; and the area around Taipei Main Station. Two standout examples include Taipei Regent, which is a superb fivestar hotel, and Home Hotel, a good-value stay close to the Taipei 101 building.

Cheers!

Taipei’s booming bar scene is a great place for a drink with the locals

Alamy; Taiwan Tourism Bureau

48 HOURS IN TAIPEI

DAY ONE: MORNING

Begin your time in the Taiwanese capital with a visit to the Taipei 101 building. The observation deck offers unforgettable views over the city, and the lift up (just 37 seconds, at a top speed of 60kph) is an experience in itself. You can also see the building’s massive wind damper, one of the largest in the world with a diameter of 5.5m. Then head to the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, where you can learn more about Taiwan’s history before watching the impressive changing of the guard.

AFTERNOON

After lunch, spend some time at Longshan Temple, which is arguably among the most beautiful in Taipei as well as being one of the country’s most culturally significant buildings. The atmosphere is exceptionally peaceful, and there are some fine architectural details. Stroll down Yongkang street, which has excellent restaurants –ordering some mango shaved ice here is a must – then visit a traditional tea house.

EVENING

After dining out at one of the city’s many superb restaurants, finish your first day in Taipei with a visit to some of the capital’s vibrant night markets – either Shilin or Yansan is a good bet.

DAY TWO: MORNING

Spend the morning in the National Palace Museum, with its astonishing collection of Chinese art spanning several thousand

years, including breathtaking works in jade, pottery, bronze, painting and calligraphy.

AFTERNOON

For a bird’s-eye whirlwind flight over Taiwan’s epic landscapes, grab a seat at the i-Ride VR experience. Head to Dihua District and explore the area around Dadaocheng Wharf, beside the Tamsui River. Then visit Ximending, a hip, pedestrianised shopping area with cafés and boutiques where you’re likely to find street performers as well as some good street art. It’s also one of the most LGBTQ+-friendly areas in the city.

EVENING

For the ultimate view out over Taipei (that isn’t from inside the Taipei 101 building), head for Xiangshan (Elephant Mountain), a hill with a flight of 500 steps that leads up to a magnificent viewing platform. Note: it’s another 100 steps to the top from there.

Tasty parcels

Xiao long bao (soup dumplings) are a favourite among Taiwanese locals

Gilded glamour

The 18th-century Longshan Temple is one of Taipei’s best-preserved religious landmarks

Chinese creativity

Taipei’s National Palace Museum harbours a fine collection of Chinese artwork dating back millennia

Reaching for the clouds Designed to resemble a giant bamboo stalk, Taipei 101 was once the world’s tallest building

NORTHERN TAIWAN

There’s plenty to see and experience in Northern Taiwan. Drop by the vibrant port city of Keelung, with its fantastic night market, then head for the volcanic landscapes of Yangmingshan National Park and the outlandish sandstone rock formations of Yehliu. There’s fascinating history, hot springs and some great beaches – and they’re all within easy reach of Taipei by public transport.

CROWN COAST

Taiwan’s Crown Coast runs across the northernmost part of the island, within easy reach of Taipei. This includes Keelung City and other towns along the coast, as well as the exceptionally scenic Yangmingshan National Park further inland.

Keelung City is known for its large and particularly well-sheltered harbour – the heart and soul of this major port city – which has given it considerable military and commercial importance since the Spanish first built a fort here in the 17th century.

Don’t miss Kanziding fish market, which is one of the oldest in Taiwan (it’s been selling freshly caught local fish since the Qing Dynasty); and for mouthwateringly good street food, head to Keelung’s Miaokou night market, which is one of the best in the country and has over 200 stalls. Here you can try crab soup, tempura fish cakes and a whole bunch of other mouth-watering dishes. During the day, visit Zhongzheng Park, on the hillsides above the city, and look out for its 25m-high statue of Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy – this is the tallest Goddess statue in East Asia.

Just west of Keelung City, Yehliu Geopark is an area of amazing rock formations along the Yehliu peninsula. Its honey-coloured and reddish sandstone has been scoured into all sorts of weird and wonderful shapes by the elements – check out the Queen’s Head and Dragon’s Head. Early morning or late

afternoon are the best times to come here, when the light will be at its best for photos. Afterwards, it’s well worth continuing to the end of the peninsula, where there are several sea caves and, if you’re lucky, a chance to spot ospreys wheeling in the skies overhead.

Yangmingshan National Park is another beautiful area of landscape that is worth exploring; it’s also remarkably easy to reach from the capital by public transport. Hike over rolling green mountains and marvel at fumaroles on the slopes of Mount Qixing, (Taiwan’s highest dormant volcano) as they release great hissing clouds of sulphur and other gasses and steam. Along with Jinshan on the coast, which has four different water types (including carbonic acid, iron and sulphur), Yangmingshan is an excellent area for hot springs.

Lastly, Baishawan is a great, family-friendly beach out towards Sanzhi, which is also popular for surfing.

GREAT NORTHEAST

East of Keelung City, the coast continues in a succession of bays and headlands backed by steep green hillsides. These are interspersed with some of Taiwan’s best beaches, including the long stretch of fluffy golden sand that is Fulong.

Fulong Beach is deservedly popular, whether you come here to swim, paddle, or kayak, and is also the summer home of the rather spectacular International Sand Sculpture Festival. Further down the coast, near Toucheng Township, Wai’ao is a blacksand beach that is also one of Taiwan’s best surfing spots, and has views of Turtle Island thrown in for good measure.

Jiufen is similarly a lovely little town with a fascinating history, which is definitely worthy of a day trip from Taipei. In 1890, gold was discovered near Jiufen, which soon changed from a small village of nine families to a gold-mining boomtown home to over 4,000 prospectors and their families. Those days may be well past, but Jiufen still has a vibrant old market and shopping area that is known as Old Street – a wander past its shops which is a must.

Also an essential part of any visit to Jiufen – and a part not to rush – is a stop at one of the town’s many excellent tea houses. Jiufen Teahouse is one of the best, and it is set in a

beautifully renovated old building, complete with carp swimming lazily in a pool. Some of the most delicious and delicately flavoured tea imaginable is available here. The owner is a master potter, and there are also some exquisite ceramics for sale.

If you only have time to visit one temple in Jiufen, make it Fushan Temple, with its breathtaking interior and elaborately carved columns.

Lit by lanterns

The mountain town of Jiufen is a charming maze of narrow alleys lined with teahouses, food shacks and boutique shops

Royal rocks

(this image) Queen’s Head is just one of Yehliu Geopark's beguiling sandstone formations; (right) Shifen Waterfall is a scenic cascade found along the Keelung River

Evening eats

Keelung City’s night market is renowned for being one of the best in the country

OUTLYING ISLANDS

Taiwan’s scattering of offshore islands include the Matsu and Penghu archipelagos, and feature wildly contrasting landscapes that range from great sweeps of golden sand to stunning columnar basalt formations. Their military history is blended with traditional culture and Fujian architecture, not to mention plenty of tasty local cuisine. There are nature and marine reserves to explore here, plus some excellent locations for birdwatching. The surrounding waters are also celebrated for their snorkelling, as well as being one of the country’s best windsurfing spots.

MATSU ISLANDS

The far-flung Matsu islands lie around 170km or so north-west of Taiwan’s main island, close to the coast of mainland China. There are well over a dozen islands here, each with its own individual character and culture, but the main ones are Nangan – the largest of the Matsu islands, and once a notorious pirates’ lair – Beigan, Juguang and Dongyin. All of them form part of Lienchiang County. Their geographical position made the Matsu islands a military outpost for many years, and the remains of this past can be both seen and visited. On Nangan, you’ll find the Beihai Tunnel – a 700m-long underground dock bored into the granite coast between Ren’ai and Meishi villages during the 1970s to provide shelter for military vessels. The tunnel took over two

years to excavate, is 18m high and can harbour up to 120 small boats. Another military tunnel, known as Tunnel 88, is now used as a storage area by the Matsu Distillery – their sorghum wine ages here for five years before it is sold. The Iron Fort on the south coast of Nangan is another former military site worth visiting; its underground passages lead to cramped bunk rooms and former machine gun placements.

In contrast, Qinbi Village on the island Beigan is one of the best places to see the traditional stone houses so typical of old Fujian architecture, which have a definite hint of the Mediterranean about them. Although many of the houses were abandoned in the 1970s with the decline in the local fishing industry, they have been maintained by the government, and some are converted into guesthouses. For the

best view of Beigan, hike up Bi Mountain, the roof of the island at just a smidgin off 300m high. Ferries run between the main Matsu islands, and scooter hire is a popular way to explore the land itself.

Head to Dongyin, the easternmost of the Matsu islands, to see the Britishbuilt lighthouse that dates from 1904, or to Daqui which is home to sika deer and plenty of seabirds, including several species of tern that also breed here. Along with some of the other islands, it forms part of the Matsu Islands Wildlife Refuge, which is full of wonders. The so-called ‘blue tears’ in the waters surrounding the Matsu islands are created by bioluminescence (light emitted from marine organisms such as plankton) and is only visible at night. It can typically be seen each year between May and September.

PENGHU ISLANDS

The Penghu islands are much closer to Taiwan than the Matsu islands, lying around 50km west of Chiayi County. The archipelago includes some 90 islands and islets, only 20 of which are inhabited. These scatter an area measuring around 60km from north to south.

The volcanic origins of the Penghu islands have led to the formation of some spectacular landscapes. There are extensive areas of columnar basalt along the coast, formed millions of years ago as lava cooled when it came into contact with the air and water. The most impressive examples of this are seen on the islands of Tongpau, Jishan and Xiaomen, and on Magong Island. Sea cliffs and sea caves are punctuated with gorgeous sandy beaches – Shilhi and Shanshui on Magong are among the best, along with the beach on Xiaomen and the long sandspit on Jibei.

Beneath the waves, the setting is equally stunning, with brightly coloured coral reefs and over 40 species of seaweed. As well as the several species of turtle found here, over 700 species of fish have been recorded in the waters, making this a great place to snorkel.

With its windswept location out in the middle of the Taiwan Strait and the low elevation of its islands, Penghu is also Taiwan’s premier windsurfing destination – head for Longmen Beach on Magong for some of the best wave-sailing around.

Don’t miss the rather ingenious traditional stone weirs on the island of Jibei, built in the intertidal zone by local fishermen to trap fish. One particular group of weirs, which have been carefully restored, form the shape of a pair of intersecting hearts.

As well as flights from the mainland, there are also ferries to the islands from Kaohsiung and from Budai Harbour in Chiayi City.

Taiwan Tourism Bureau

Golden glow

(this image) Qinbi village is a treasure trove of traditional Fujian architecture; (left) the Matsu islands’ bioluminescent waters light up an electric blue shade each night; (bottom right) Penghu’s volcanic origins have led to the creation of a marvellously rocky coastal

landscape

Saxony, Germany

Having evolved away from its industrial past, the state of Saxony is emerging as one of Germany’s most rewarding escapes, writes

Andrew Eames

Amid the borders of eastern Germany, where the state of Saxony brushes up against the Czech Republic and Poland, lie cultured cities, mountains home to skiers and artisan villages, and a river lined with vineyards. It’s a scenic setting for what was once a huge industrial area, but Saxony has learnt to move with the times.

The region’s jewel is Dresden, a city lucky even to have survived the 20th century. Its riverside location has been much painted by artists over the years, yet its elaborate palaces and Baroque concert halls were badly damaged in the Second World War when some 2,700 tonnes of Allied bombs were dropped on the city.These buildings have been painstakingly rebuilt, with the round Frauenkirche, now piebald with stones old and new, a symbol of how it has been reborn.

Downriver from Dresden, old industry remains in Meissen, where the town’s famous pottery has adapted to modern times. It’s an evolution you can see across the state in myriad different ways. Nearby Leipzig was always more industrial than its neighbours, but its factory hinterland has now been colonised by artists and entrepreneurs moving out of the big smoke, earning it the label ‘the new Berlin’.Yet the city is

not without history. Leipzig’s Old Town is known for its 30-odd interior courtyard arcades – some lined with shops, others with quiet cafés – and the 16th-century city hall at its centre is a delight.

On the Polish border to the east lies little-visited Görlitz, much admired by filmmakers such as Wes Anderson and Quentin Tarantino. Restoration here has been beautifully done, but such are the economics of the reunified Germany that some of it is yet to be reoccupied. And indeed, patches of neglect are still visible in many former German Democratic Republic (GDR) towns.

Thankfully, Saxony’s landscapes are untainted by geopolitics. The Elbe River threads the state and is lined by vineyards on the terraces around Dresden. Here it also supports a fleet of paddle steamers and a well-loved cycle path. Upstream, the river slaloms the peaks of Saxon Switzerland, a hiking spot made famous by Romantic poets and artists, such as Caspar David Friedrich.

Ask a local

“My favourite area is Dresden Neustadt, on the east bank of the river. This is where I live and spend most of my time. It’s a creative district and a hotspot for artists of all kinds, particularly around the Kunsthofpassage. There you’ll find small alleys leading through the backyards of residential buildings, artistically decorated walls, small independent shops and alternative cafés and restaurants. You’ll also discover the Alaunpark, which can be compared to Central Park in New York.”

Mister Matthew, fashion blogger (mister-matthew.de)

Finally, along the border with the Czech Republic stretches the Ore Mountains, where its highest point, Fichtelberg (1,214m), supports a ski resort. The region’s name derives from the mines that were once common here; now their former communities have turned to crafts. It’s a fitting symbol for a state that is always evolving. 51.0504° N, 13.7373° E

Standing strong (previous spread and this page) Before its Altstadt was reduced to rubble in 1945, Dresden was known as the ‘Florence of the Elbe’ for the Baroque splendour of its riverfront, much of which was built under Elector Augustus II in the early 18th century. Years of restoration have restored its glory, including gems such as the Zwinger Palace (above), whose al fresco balls and courtly games once heralded the start of the summer season

SAXONY IN FIVE DAYS

Day 1 Historic Leipzig

Leipzig’s historical centre sits inside the Ring, which follows the Old Town’s fortifications, with Marktplatz at its centre. Much of the design dates back 500 years, when its distinctive passages were built to save horsedrawn carriages from having to reverse in the courtyards. Drop by St Nicholas church to see where demonstrators once helped bring about the end of the GDR in 1989.

Day 2 Wandering Dresden

Dresden merits at least two days. The visitor-focused Altstadt (Old Town) lies on the west bank of the Elbe, alongside the palaces, churches and opera house. Paddle steamers and cruise boats line the riverfront, which is filled with cultural sights. It makes for a painterly skyline. Meanwhile, on

the east bank lies the 19th-century Neustadt, reminiscent of hipsterish Berlin and its arty urban nightlife.

Day 3 Cultural Dresden

Dresden is rich in historic buildings, but its three powerhouse cultural institutions are unmissable. The big teapot-shaped Frauenkirche is the largest draw, with lunchtime recitals and a tower that offers fine city views. Second is the Zwinger, a Versailleslike Baroque palace that contains an Old Masters gallery featuring artists such as Cranach and Canaletto. And finally, there’s the Albertinum, which has works by the Impressionists and Caspar David Friedrich.

Day 4 Head inland

Now to sample the countryside. Rent a car and head south-west for Seiffen,

in the Ore Mountains, to investigate its woodcarver workshops. If you prefer public transport, take the train to Bad Schandau and follow the Painters Trail (116km) into the peaks of Saxon Switzerland. Or if you’d prefer to stay local, rent a bike to cycle along the Elbe’s eastern bank from Dresden and visit some nearby vineyards.

Day 5 Travel to Görlitz

The grand but echoingly empty train station at Görlitz is the perfect visual appetiser for the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque sights that fill the town. Here you will find some 4,000 listed buildings packed into the squares and streets, creating what is almost an integrated work of art. It’s a bit like Prague, complete with its own astronomical clock, but without the all-consuming crowds. ⊲

Art and nature (this page; left–right) A boat drifts along the scenic banks of the Elbe, near Rathen; Dresden’s Kunsthofpassage takes visitors through a series of five formerly rundown courtyards that have been turned into a magnificently colourful art space in the Neustadt. In this one, music is created by the water that runs down the interlinked drainage pipes