Wanderlust issue 127 by Wanderlust Publications

Wanderlust Issue 127 (April 2012) Readers’ Travel Awards • Kiso Valley, Japan • Victoria Falls • Costa Rica • Ibiza • Palestine • Québec, Canada • Pocket guides: Havana, Lake Bled, Fjord Norway

travel I adventure I CULTURE The travel magazine that takes you further

April 2012 www.wanderlust.co.uk

£3.60

Readers Travel Awards

best in travel 2012 The countries, cities & companies rated by real travellers

Victoria Falls

Costa Rica

Volcanoes, jungle & beaches

Plan your trip to Africa’s wild waters

Ibiza

The island’s secret quiet side

Isles of Scilly Québec, Canada Exotic cruises Palestine

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Contents APRIL 2012 • ISSUE 127

360°

From the road

6 | World in pictures Mongolia, the Cornish coast and one of nature’s most unique sights caught on lens 12 | Shortcuts A planet’s worth of travel news 14 | Go now! Join birthday festivities in Rome 16 | 10 things to do for free in... Kraków. On the tail of fire-breathing dragons in Poland 18 | Departures Cruising around the world 20 | Hilary Bradt talks... taking sides in the Falkland Islands

33 | Snapshots Your views from around the world to turn us green with envy

34 | Letters etc... Emails, blogs, photos and

chat from readers around the world. This issue: ignoring FCO advice, trains in Colombia and Wanderlust fans far and wide

38 | Just Back From… snowmobiling in Finland,

homestays in Mongolia, ziplining in the Dominican Republic and eating in France

22 Quebec

Cover feature

Norway p133

109

WINNERS REVEALED

22 | Classic Canada

Why reinvent the wheel? Sarah Baxter finds life’s simple pleasures still include big wildlife, vast waterways and romantic vistas in Québec

Cuba p135

Features

40 | Offbeat Ibiza

Nick Boulos travels beyond the bars to uncover the island’s naturally wild side

50 | Travel Icon: Victoria Falls

Hear it, see it, jump in it – and then leave it for one of Mike Unwin’s seven safari suggestions

66 | Crossing Costa Rica

From coast to coast by raft, bike and foot – Mark Stratton’s everyday adventure with a difference

78 | British Escape: Isles of Scilly

William Gray skims his way around the Isles of Scilly and gives them his seal of approval

Costa Rica

98 | Wandering the West Bank

Matthew Teller views life through the eyes of a Bethlehem carpenter in Palestine (no, really)

109 | Travel Awards 2012

Wanderlust readers pick their best destinations, tour operators and airports for annual accolades

THE FUTURE Like this map? MAPPING To buy a similar wall map, COMPANY visit www.futuremaps.co.uk 004-005 contents_SO.indd 4

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Navigator 85 | How to... get to the South Pole, avoid

saltwater crocs and find tasty tapas in Seville 86 | World Guide Awards 2012 Meet the shortlisted guides – did your fave make the cut? 91 | Gear What to pack for a cruise 92 | Health What to do in a medical emergency 94 | Photo tips Turn your camera on its side and see the world in vertical – it’s better, trust us 96 | Q&A Sightsee in Prague, pack like Mary Poppins and meet locals in Vietnam: we can help

Arrivals 124 | Books Stuart Maconie on country walking 126 | Guides The best ways to experience the

Titanic centenary. Warning: contains icebergs 127 | World music The hottest new stars 128 | World diary Filling your April calendar 129 | What’s on: events Festivals, exhibitions, talks and massive trek in a tiger outfit 130 | What’s on: screen Guns, drugs and curried bats: Simon Reeve on new show Indian Ocean

POCKE T GUID ES The bits

of the guide book you

Pocket Guides 133 | Ålesund, Norway Fjords and hills make for a cracking yomp in the country

really need

133 alesund

P 133 Short P 135 First break Alesu nd Hiking the hills P 137 Trave24 hours Hava l Icon Lake na Going with in Norway the flow Bled Escap e from reality in Cuba’s Caribb ean around Slovenia’s capital havana fairytale lake

See31

135

137 lake

bled

135 | Havana, Cuba Cigars, classic cars and colonial beauty in this Caribbean capital 137 | Lake Bled, Slovenia This is not just any lake – think island churches, clifftop castles and death-defying gorges

Poland p16

Isles of Scilly

Palestine

50 Victoria Falls

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Coast with the most Photographer Adam Burton Britain’s South West Coast Path began life as a 19th-century network of coastguards’ trails designed to thwart smugglers. The tracks were finally all joined up in 1978, forming Britain’s longest way-marked footpath. Covering more than 1,000km from Minehead to Poole, it threads along clifftops and round tiny coves, offering one photo opportunity after another. Now the path’s many moods have been captured in a stirring new book by previous Wanderlust photo award-winner Adam Burton. In this shot, a dawn sky colours the lighthouse at Trevose Head, north Cornwall, while Atlantic waves crash into Stinking Cove below – named, we can only imagine, by one of those frustrated smugglers… The South West Coast Path (£16.99) is published by Frances Lincoln

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360 1

I I World in pictures I

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1 1

I I I

Québec

Québec, Canada

I French 1 flair meets accessible Canadian I 1 wilderness

Fly UK-Québec City, via Montréal; flight time 8hrs plus layover 1 1

Go May-Oct (or Nov-Feb for snow)

classic

canada Moose, bears, whales, mountains, maples: for a slice of quintessential Canadian wilderness not too far from civilization, head for Québec, says Sarah Baxter

Sweet scenery The sugar maples turn the banks of the Jacques-Cartier River autumnal shades of red and orange

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Québec Footnotes

How to get around Canada’s fine French province – plus where to stay and where to go to get the most out of this big area in a little time Vital Statistics

Province capital: Québec City (Canada capital: Ottawa) Province population: 8 million (total: 34m) Language: French, English Time: GMT-5 (Mar-Nov GMT-4) International dialling code: +1 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Canadian dollar (C$) currently C$1.6 to the UK£

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec ■ Winter: temperatures can drop to -20°C, but the region is well equipped for the cold and snow sports abound: downhill and crosscountry skiing, snowmobiling etc. Québec City’s Winter Carnaval (Feb) is a big deal, with ice sculptures, parades and parties. ■ Low season – temperatures are still low, festivals are few and conditions for snow sports become less reliable. ■ Peak season – pleasant temps (up to around 25°C) bring the Québécois outside; Jul-Aug can be sticky (especially in Montréal). This is best for whalewatching on the St Lawrence: humpbacks are common Jun-Oct; blues Aug-Oct. Time it right (late Sept-early Oct) to see Québec’s forests on the autumnal turn.

Health & safety No specific vaccinations required. Take insect repellent – midges can be irritating in the parks. Be prepared for changeable weather when out hiking/kayaking, and heed any wildlife warnings. For whalewatching, pack sea sickness medication if you are prone.

Further reading & info Montréal & Québec City (LP, 2010) Sacré Blues: An Unsentimental Journey Through Québec (McClelland & Stewart, 2001) www.bonjourquebec.com – official site

More online Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/127 for links to more content Archive articles

First 24hrs in Montréal – issue 124, Dec 11/Jan 12 Inuit cruise in Arctic Canada – issue 116, Nov 10 Kayaking Nova Scotia – issue 110, Mar 10 Self-drive along the St Lawrence River – issue 57, Apr/May 03

Planning guides

Canada travel guide

Miracle worker The Basilica SainteAnne-de-Beaupré’s entrance is covered with discarded crutches – a testament to its healing properties

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Snapshots | Letters etc | Experiences | Just Back From…

From The Road Letters, tips, photos & exploits from you, our endlessly adventurous readers

“Local school children and my daughter – can you spot her? – at Phanom Rung, Thailand.” Carol Drew

“The Great Escape! Skiing around the Matterhorn from Cervinia, Italy to Zermatt, Switzerland.” Gwen Pearson

“Over 50 years ago, beautiful Zell am See (Austria) was a first foreign holiday for one of us. This time, together.” John and Elisabeth Cox

Snapshots

Been somewhere nice? Send us your snapshots to FromTheRoad@ wanderlust.co.uk “Life doesn't stop at 70 – enjoying the holiday of a lifetime in Antarctica.” Hilary Bloomfield

“Me in Svalbard, Norway – next to the polar bear sign.” Justin Cutcliffe

“We enjoyed the stunning scenery on the Galápagos Islands, in particular this view of Pinnacle Rock.” Dave and Ann Brierley

“The iconic sight in Lhasa, Tibet.” Clare Hogston

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From The Road in association with

From the forum

The coldest place you've visited?

It got all chilly on the myWanderlust forum this month. Discover how far our wanderers have been below zero

“The coldest I’ve been was Mongolia last month at -35C, but windy. Trying to take photos at a frozen waterfall was excruciating, but it’s the warming up afterwards that hurts the most. Vodka helped...” Nick Ledger “I flew down to Antarctica in 2003 and camped at a place called Patriot Hills. On my first night I thought I was going to die from the cold – despite being in a massive sleeping bag and wearing thermals, fleece, down, balaclava, etc!” satkinson “Trip on the huskies at -34C, very cold. Froze my eyelashes!” Pebbles111 “ The coldest I’ve ever FELT was a night at around 5,000m at Laguna Colorada, Bolivia. No idea what the actual temperature was, but I didn't know before that toothpaste could freeze. The night before we had to melt the condensation on the inside of the bus windscreen with a candle.” ElliFry “You're all making my -25 in Moscow sound positively balmy...” Kathryn

Dreamstime

“Oddly, despite going up mountains, I wouldn’t say the Alps or the Himalayas because I’m usually dressed for the occasion. No, the coldest I can remember feeling is when we waited for a taxi to get us home after a night out in Essex.” Liz Cleere Want to comment? Join the debate at wanderlust.co.uk/mywanderlust

Jan 2012). This is appallingly irresponsible and effectively inviting those of your readers who follow Ms Bradt’s message to put themselves at real risk. The FCO’s advice is impartial and based on fact, is written by professional experts and is crafted to advise Britons on genuine risks. When it advises against travel to any given destination it is not because “the Foreign Office fears to tread” there, it is because of genuine potential danger. Those who choose to ignore this are foolhardy and naïve – and I think you should advise your readers that if they do travel to locations where the FCO advises against travel, they may invalidate their insurance. Edwin Trafford, by email I think that Mr Trafford has misunderstood the point I was making: that the evaluation of risk is a personal business. I was not sending a message that the excellent FCO advice should be ignored, only that informed and adventurous travellers may choose to go to those places anyway. Foolhardy, perhaps, but not naïve. - Hilary Bradt

Where in the world?

I read with interest Chris and Helen Hartley-Sharpe’s letter in Dec 2011/Jan 2012 issue about taking maps to Nepal. It brought back a memory of trekking to

“Yay! My new copy of Wanderlust has arrived. I will read it cover to cover and plan all the places I want to go (if I win the lotto).” @MissSeaPeaches – we're keeping our fingers crossed!

In Kaziranga National Park, Assam, this cyclist completed my sunrise picture – Jamie Furlong Everest Base Camp years ago. Although it was a camping trip we stopped for lunch at one of the tea houses, which had a world map on the wall. I pointed out to our assistant Sirdar, aged about 16, where we lived (in Wales). I asked him if he knew where he lived, and he didn’t. It was a humbling moment, that something we take for granted wasn’t known or indeed important in his life. He was very interested but it was as if he hadn’t seen a world map before. Roma Whiteley, Cardiff

Wander-LUST

In conversation with a recent visitor to our home we mentioned our subscription to Wanderlust magazine. Our friend had not heard of it and said, “What’s that? It sounds like a Danish pornography mag!” Graham and Celia Bryan, by email

All-weather ware

Don’t worry about taking adequate rain protection to Vietnam and Cambodia. The rain is torrential but simple light-weight plastic ponchos are sold everywhere for $1-2 and >

Strange Souvenir

“I have sent over photos of two Chinese devices found in a local market. They are for babies. As you know they don’t wear nappies so at night, to divert urine from the cradle, they have the device tied to them so that the urine runs out over the side onto what or where I don’t know! The top device in the photo above is for boys and the bottom is for girls.” Sheila Nuttall

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TRAVEL ICON

VICTORIA FALLS

A spuming pointisfor journeys intoup Zambia, Zimbabwe, Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vastfocal barricade mind-boggling: to 2,300 years Botswana and Namibia, this water-avalanche will round never go out of old and 5,000km long. We help you get your head fashion. Livefrom life on edge oursouthern tips on what to see and do its best bits, topthe hikes to with a secret section... Mike Unwin Words xxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxx

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Victoria Falls

Chobe, Savuti, Moremi and the great salt pans, either by air or road. Time: 10–14 days Why? A longer trip into Botswana allows you to see more of Chobe, explore the world-famous Okavango Delta and, with time, visit the salt pans beyond. Northern Botswana is pure big game country. Starting with the Chobe riverside section, a rough road south takes you via

4. Northern Namibia

Route: From Victoria Falls to Etosha and back, via the Caprivi Strip Time: 2 weeks Why: The Caprivi Strip provides a self-drive route into Namibia and the arid wilderness of Etosha and Damaraland. Cross into Namibia via the well-watered Caprivi Strip and spend a few days enjoying boat cruises, fishing and game viewing in one of its parks – Mamili, Mudumu or Bwabwata. Continue west to the semi-arid expanse of Etosha, Namibia’s premier national park. Spend at least three nights here, staking out the spring-fed waterholes, which attract a pageant of game – notably lion. Continue southwest into Damaraland for towering rock formations, ancient rock art and desert elephants. Camping beneath the stars here is special. Getting started: Namibia is one of Africa’s best self-drive safari destinations and, except for some excursions into the Caprivi Strip and Damaraland, the whole route is suitable for normal vehicles. There is plentiful accommodation, with a roof tent a popular option for self-drive. The Caprivi Strip has houseboats. If short of time, fly from Livingstone to Windhoek, hire a vehicle and drive north.

the park’s Savuti region, famous for its bull elephants, lions and hyenas. Continue southwest to Moremi Game Reserve, the heart of the Okavango Delta, to explore the islands and waterways by mokoro (dugout) or canoe as well as on game drives. From Maun, you can extend your trip east to the arid salt pans of the northern Kalahari: a vast expanse of blinding white plains. Devote time to Makgadikgadi or adjacent Nxai, seeking out Stone Age remains and tracking game with the San bushmen.

5. Western Zimbabwe

Route: South from Victoria Falls to Hwange National Park, in western Zimbabwe, and continuing to Bulawayo and Matobo Hills. Time: 5–10 days Why: Hwange is Zimbabwe’s top reserve and ideal for independent travellers. It lies en route to Bulawayo, Zimbabwe’s historic second city, and the intriguing Matobo Hills nearby. Despite recent neglect, Hwange still offers one of Africa’s top safari experiences. In the dry season, expect huge elephant and buffalo herds, plentiful predators and packed waterholes. Reasonable roads and cheap accommodation make this a budget self-drive option, while upmarket lodges offer a more exclusive experience. Allow at least three nights. A half day’s drive will then

Getting started: A 4WD is essential for reaching Maun from Chobe riverside via Moremi. Public campsites are basic, though the more thrilling for it. You can drive to Maun from Livingstone on tar via Nata (316km south of Kasane). Maun is Botswana’s safari hub and a base for trips into all the parks. Maun/Livingstone is an established safari axis, with many packages available – either on a cheaper ‘participation’ overland tour or by air between key destinations. Upmarket lodges offer the experience in style.

take you south to Bulawayo, with craft markets, museums and streets reputedly built wide enough to turn a span of oxen. From there, visit the Matobo Hills, where you’ll find rhinos, cave paintings, hiking trails and horseriding among a landscape of weird volcanic rock formations. Getting started: Turn off to Hwange Main Camp (Park HQ) 180km south of VF, or head to Sinematella Camp via Hwange town, 100km south of VF, then continue through the park. Good roads allow self-drive in normal vehicles. Camps also have chalets and guided walks; or book a private lodge safari. Bulawayo is 440km from VF, with lots of accommodation. Matobo Hills is 1hr further south, on good roads, with chalets and self-guided trails. >

Who’s the predator? The predatory lion looks a little outnumbered by Hwange’s buffalo herds

Getty; Dale Morris

3. Best of Botswana

< Route: From Victoria Falls to Maun, via

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Navigator

“25% of Brits will suffer some form of allergic reaction at some time in their lives” Know your conditions, p92

Travel need-to-knows, from saltwater crocs to Spanish tapas Take my advice

How to track wild animals

Expert tracker Ian Maxwell helps you pick up the scent

Zone in Learn to feel the heartbeat of your environment. Find somewhere to sit (it can be anywhere; my favourite is at the bottom of a tree), then let your mind go blank.

Develop your senses Get good at feeling, seeing, listening, tasting and smelling. We think vision is our strongest sense, but smell is our most primeval – it can deliver more information than any other. When you’ve honed your senses, they will combine into one super-sense: intuition.

Learn the landscape Getting to know where the food, water and barriers are will help you to find good tracks. Imagine flying above the landscape, gaining a bird’s eye view of the animal you’re tracking.

Get into the mind of your quarry Think as the animal is thinking. If I’m in dangerous-animal country I try to think ‘smarter’ than the animal.

Know where to look Find the shadows and you’ll find the leopard (they rely on them for camouflage). Find the prey and you’ll find the predator. Also, look for ‘track traps’ – soft or sandy patches, into which animals are funnelled; try trails – most animals opt for the path of least resistance.

Know what to look for Keep your eyes peeled for colour change and context. Your eye will be drawn to obvious tracks; once you’ve noted them, start looking for the less-obvious signs.

Dreamstime

Watch birds Birds carry silent messages of intent from a hunting predator. For example, in Africa, if the vultures are in the sky, be aware – the predators are still hunting; if the vultures are in the trees, be very careful, because predators may well still be feeding; if the birds are on the ground, it’s less dangerous. Ian Maxwell is founder of Shadowhawk Tracker School, which runs a range of UK tracking courses (01872 222409, www.shadowhawk.co.uk)

Bird’s eye view Vultures in trees can be a sign of predators feeding nearby – or just a roost forthe night

Did you know? Elephants can’t run – but they can walk at 40km/h! Wanderlust April 2012 | 85

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Navigator Skills

Campdistance on the ice Respect minimum rules Keep quiet Speak softly, if at Cruise close Flights from to Union Glacier Camp is best when in the You’re not permitted to getChile closer all. Silence The Antarctic than 7m to a mountain (which has a blue-ice runway, on which large gorilla, though company of primates Peninsula is the most planes can land) take 4.5 hours; be prepared for they may breaks those rules. If they accessible part of the weather delays (up to several days). Week-long do, stay calm and slowly withdraw continent. Cruises trips here cost £14,000. depart from Ushuaia, Argentina; prices start Fly – or ski – to the pole from around £4,000. Ski-plane flights from Union Glacier to the South

the Local’s guide to… tapas bars in Seville

Pole take 4-5 hours (trips from £27,000). Last Degree ski trips, on which you ski the final 105km to the pole (one-two weeks), cost from £35,000.

Race to the pole Copy James Cracknell and Ben Fogle and enter the 745km South Pole Race (£60,000). A cheaper, quicker alternative is to run the Antarctic Marathon, near Union Glacier (£8,000).

Fly from Chile Most commercial flights to Antarctica depart from Punta Arenas, Chile, run by Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (ALE; www.antarcticlogistics.com) and Adventure Network International (ANI; www.adventurenetwork.com).

Climb a mountain ANI can organise ascents of Antarctica’s highest peak, 4,892m Mount Vinson (near Union Glacier), which takes around two weeks.

Copy Scott Captain Scott set off from McMurdo Sound. With 2012 marking the centenary of his arrival at the pole, expeditions are queuing up to attempt a journey to the South Pole and back, entirely by human power.

How to... get to the South Pole Tim Moss helps you achieve your Antarctic ambitions

Games for the road

aut Tim M G hor oss Pol et to t of Ho is e (H he w T Brad Norman, marine £12 ow ToNorth o biologist and founder how.99; w Book to ww s, of Ecocean .co. book . uk) s (whaleshark.org), helps

you to float with the world’s

Mad-libs Surrealist word-game fun for the road: mad-libs sees one person chose an excerpt of text (from a guidebook or local newspaper, perhaps) and cross out key words. Without showing it to the group, that person prompts their companions for replacements (requesting, say, a noun, number or place). The resulting revamped piece will probably swing between the bizarre and the hilarious; pick a dead serious article for the best results.

Casa Morales – Right by the cathedral, this is a great place to start off, having been a classic tapas hangout since 1850. Serves great cured meats and cheeses, best paired with oloroso sherry. Eat at the bar or high tables. (Garcia de Vinuesa 11) La Azotea – This new place has taken Seville by storm. Creative twists on traditional dishes, seasonal specialities and excellent service are the trademarks. Arrive early, or book. (Zaragoza 5; www. laazoteasevilla.es) Modesto – Probably the best outdoor terrace in town, overlooking Murillo Gardens. It’s not cheap, but may just serve Seville’s best tapas: the fried fish platter is perfection. Note, the inside bar’s a bit cheaper. (Cano y Cueto 5) Find out more about Tripbod Olga, author of this piece, at www.tripbod.com/ en/shop/when-in-sevilla

Saltwater crocodile

Danger rating: High. An evolutionary masterpiece, the Crocodylus porosus has had plenty of time to perfect its hunting technique: the death roll. There are only one or two fatal attacks a year, though – thanks to warning signage and education. Identification: Largest living reptile: salties usually measure 4-5m; an adult male sometimes exceeds 6m. They can weigh 400-1,000kg. Where found: Mainly north Australia. Numbers are increasing across South-East Asia due to a

successful breeding programme. Their wide distribution is explained by their habit of travelling up to 1,000km out of their native territory. Likelihood of encountering: High, if you hang around freshwater swamps, brackish rivers and estuaries in croc country. Stay safe: If you want to survive, avoid them entirely. If you must go to the water’s edge, do not return: crocs can remember your position and lie in wait. For more info, see crocodilian.com.

Dreamstime; istockphoto

Know your enemy...

When in Seville, act like a local: spend evenings cruising between tapas bars. Naturally, our friends at www.tripbod.com know the best places…

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Wandering

the W WEST

BANK

Despite the headlines, Palestine is safe to visit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and its ancient cities and proud people make for fascinating travel, says Matthew Teller

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Palestine Footnotes

How to get into, and get around, the West Bank – plus tips on finding local homestays and tasty falafel Vital Statistics

Capital: Yet to be determined Population: About 4 million (West Bank & Gaza), plus around 200,000 in East Jerusalem. Figures exclude 500,000 Israeli settlers. Language: Arabic; English widely spoken Time: GMT+2 (Apr-Sept GMT+3) International dialling code: +970, though the Israel code +972 is more reliable. Visas: Entry is via Israel. UK nationals are generally given free Israeli visas on arrival. Money: Israeli shekel (ILS or NIS), currently around 6NIS to the UK£. ATMs are widespread.

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec ■ High season: sunny, warm, mostly dry. ■ Summer: hot sunshine – avoid strenuous activity during the middle of the day. ■ Winter: some low-season bargains, though Christmas is very busy. Often cold and wet.

Health & safety No vaccinations required, though it’s wise to be up to date with hepatitis A and typhoid jabs. Medical care is good. Palestine is very safe: there is no terrorism and crime rates are low. Clashes with Israeli forces are (usually) predictable, so avoidable.

Further reading & info Palestine (Bradt, 2011), the only guide you need – expertly detailed, knowledgeable and bang up-to-date Israel & the Palestinian Territories (Lonely Planet, 2010) – modest in scope and insight Jerusalem (Rough Guides, 2009) – superb; includes Bethlehem, Jericho and Hebron Palestinian Walks (Profile, 2008), by Raja Shehadeh – lyrical travel narrative linking landscape, culture and history www.travelpalestine.ps Official tourism site www.visitpalestine.ps Good info source www.thisweekinpalestine.com Lively features and listings

More online Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/127 for links to more content Archive articles

5 hikes in the Middle East– online, Jul 10 Walk to Petra, Jordan – online, Jul 10

Planning guides Middle East guide

Blooming marvellous Yellow wildflowers dot the Jerusalem Wilderness

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Short break

Ålesund norway Hitting a high note The views over

Ålesund’s coastline are well worth the hike

Where: Mid-west coast, Norway Why: For countless fjords, fishing villages and feel-good hikes When: Summer (Jun-Sept), for mild weather and long days

lesund is a city built on ashes. Although you’d never know that from its dainty streets, fairytale buildings and chirpy residents. In 1904, a fire swept across the town, burning down some 850 rickety wooden houses and leaving 10,000 people homeless. The fire raged for more than 16 hours; miraculously, only one person died, but it left a permanent scar on the coastal community. Over a century later, the destructive blaze turned out to be a good thing for the cityscape. Today, Ålesund is renowned for its Art Nouveau architecture: this romantic and decorative style flourished here during a rapid three-year restoration of the town’s smoking ruins, transforming it into a place of spellbinding turrets and towers.

✃

iStockphoto

Craving a hiking weekend but don’t fancy the Alps? Daisy Cropper heads to Ålesund, to combine the city’s cultural delights with breathtaking yomps around the nearby fjords

Ålesund didn’t feel quite so magical when I arrived, though. I’d spent the past few days huffing and puffing up, down and around the surrounding (and spectacular) mountains, hills and fjords – all I could concentrate on was my aching thighs, rather than this city, sitting sweetly by the sea. Up until the last hour I was climbing the final ‘mountain’ of the trip – Ålesund’s own Mount Aksla. At a mere 140m above sea level, it’s hardly an epic summit, but the friendly greetings of “Hei! Hei!” delivered by Norwegian walkers as they overtook me (at speed) were met with my grumbles. In all honesty, after three days of hiking Norway’s steep slopes, I was beginning to wane. Once I’d staggered to the top, however, I was able to form firmer opinions of Ålesund, and quickly appreciated why it is known as the country’s most beautiful city.

Sprawling out from the ocean, dotted freshly-caught seafood, while with towers, multi-coloured houses absorbing its architecture and and seemingly afloat, Ålesund looked interesting past. In contrast, those faultless in the fading summer-sun, seeking heart-pumping hills can and was well worth the sore feet. head 85km south-west out to In fact, as a first-time trekker Geirangerfjord. This that’s what hiking in Unesco-listed World Norway felt like: the trails Heritage site is zapped all traces of criss-crossed by If your hotel offers a buffet energy but the some of the dinner, don’t miss it. ancient, mountainous country’s best trails, Norwegians stock their buffets landscapes unfolding from two-hour full-to-bursting with different in all directions strolls to day-long fish, meats and vegetables. Just leave room for the around me more hikes, making it delightful deserts. than made up for just as much a haven the temporary aches for novice hill-walkers and pains my legs. and hikers as it is for the This area in particular – the more hardened trekkers. Simply traditional alpine Sunnmøre make sure you’re equipped with district – offers an endless array of sturdy boots, good amounts of treks and activities. water and food, and keep to the Travellers looking for a relaxed, marked trails. alternative city break can sink into Oh, and make sure your thighs picturesque Ålesund, savouring its and feet are up to the job! >

Buffet binge

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Wanderlust Pocket Guides

Ålesund & around day by day

Paddle and peruse the city, before hitting the fjords for hikes and more  Day 1

When to go: Summer (Jun-Sept) for hiking trips; year-round for Ålesund city breaks. Getting there: Norwegian (0208 099 7254, www.norwegian.com) flies direct to Ålesund from Gatwick twice weekly. Flight time is 2 hours 20 minutes; return fares from £72. Getting around: Ålesund’s airport is a 20-minute drive from the city centre. Once there, the main sights and activities are within walking distance. For trips further afield hire a car (www.avis.no). Where to stay: The stylish Scandic Hotel Ålesund (www.scandichotels. com) is located a stone’s throw

 Day 2

Go to Geiranger

Terje Rakke Nordic Life; Terje Rakke Nordic Life

Hire a car and head for the hills. A 90-minute drive from Ålesund, the village of Geiranger is a base for picturesque hikes of all levels around the Unesco-listed Geirangerfjord. Just getting there – via striking mountains, melting glaciers, waterfalls and fjords – is a dramatic journey. Westerås, 4km from Geiranger, is the perfect starting point for many of

Explore the city

from the main sites and has serene views of the coast; doubles from £95. Where to eat: Don’t miss the XL Diner (www.xldiner.no) on the city’s seafront for local speciality bacalao – dried salted cod. They also serve meaty reindeer steaks, salads and more. Further info: Visit www.visitnorway. co.uk and www.visitalesund.com for city info and www.fjordnorway.com for hiking advice. The Rough Guide to Norway is a good read to hone up on Ålesund and surrounds.

Full of tempting food, fascinating architecture and dramatic history, Ålesund’s main sites can be seen in one full day. For an insight into the city’s past, opt for a two-hour walking tour (100NOK [£11]; www. visitalesund.com, under ‘sightseeing and day cruises’) – guided by those in the know, you’ll learn the city’s full story and take in the delicate-looking Art Nouveau buildings. If you’re not all walked out, head for Mount Aksla: 418 steps lead up to the summit in the town park – hardly a monster peak, but the top gives panoramic views of the city, coast and Sunnmøre Alps. Looking for a harder or more challenging hike? There are many marked trails in the area, suitable for walking year-round. If you still have plenty of energy, hire a kayak from Actin (www.actin. no) to explore the numerous islands and inlets surrounding the city; guides can help you plan a route that’s safe and suitable for your fitness level.

Harder hike?

For a tougher challenge, head to Loen to scale 1,848m Mt Skåla – deemed the Norwegian hike with the greatest difference in height from start to summit. Check out Daisy’s experience at www. wanderlust.co.uk/127.

the area’s trails. Bolster your energy levels at Westerås Mountain Farm (www.geiranger.no/westeras) – try the freshly caught salmon with white wine vinaigrette and cream sauce – then lace up your boots. From Westerås you can take a 30-minute stroll to Vesteråsfjellet – an easy walk with foraging opportunities (wild blueberries are best), ending with remarkable views over Geirangerfjord. A modest one-hour hike along steeper trails leads from Westerås to Storseterfossen, where you can venture behind a 30m-high waterfall. For a tougher challenge, head for Storseterfossen and then trek higher to Laushornet. From here, there’s a steep ascent along a path above the treeline, looking over the entire Geirangerfjord. The return hike takes five to six hours. Sleeping options in Geiranger include Hotel Union (www. hotel-union.no); doubles with views of the fjord cost from £180.

 Day 3

Ferries & fjords

Catch a ferry from Geiranger to see the fjord from sea level. Boats leave from the village harbour for 90-minute tours of the waterways (www.geirangerfjord.no; 190NOK [£22]). An onboard commentary talks of the area’s history, including the precipitous fjord farms – lucky sight-seers may spot porpoises in the waters too. Beady eyes might see the

For something calmer, head to the Jugendstilsenteret (www. jugendstilsenteret.no), the city’s Art Nouveau museum. Located in one of Ålesund’s most charming buildings, it’s full of period features and furniture – you’ll feel you’ve stepped back in time. Seek out the Centre’s ‘Time Machine’ for an insight into the city’s speedy three-year restoration. Ålesund accounts for three-quarters of the world’s klipfish (or bacaloa) exports and it’s a local delicacy. Stop at the XL Diner (details left) – a far cry from the greasy spooner you’d expect.

derelict Knivsflå farm, perched 250m up on a ledge next to the towering Seven Sisters waterfall. Ask to disembark at Skahehola before the boat returns to Geiranger, to walk to Skageflå, the area’s best-known abandoned fjord farm. The walk is short but the trail is steep, uneven and not for vertigo-sufferers; it takes around 45 minutes one-way. Literally fit for royals (the King and Queen of Norway celebrated their silver wedding anniversary here), Skageflå offers rewarding views over the deep-blue waters. The abandoned farm buildings are shut but still laid-out as they would’ve been – peek through the windows for an insight into former fjord-life. If you’re worn out, head back down to sea level in time for the next ferry back to Geiranger (you’ll have two hours to get up and down). Or trek back to Geiranger over the hills, following the well-marked trails from Skageflå; this takes around three hours, depending on your speed. Pack a picnic lunch and snacks (Norwegian Kvikk Lunsj bars resemble Kit Kats). If you want to explore the area without walking boots, bikes and kayaks can be hired in Geiranger. ■

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Essential info

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