September 2013

Wanderlust Issue 139 (September 2013) Wildlife Special • Borneo • South America • Kenya • Estonia • How to be a Maasai warrior • Go birdwatching! • Pocket guides: San Francisco, Guernsey, Abu Dhabi

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS IN TRAVEL 20 years of Wanderlust, 1993-2013

September 2013 | www.wanderlust.co.uk

WILDLIFE SPECIAL

Win

A photo ass ignm to Jordan, ent a private c journey in Inar or an adven dia ture Thailand in

The Big 9 worth travelling for... revealed!

Borneo

Culture, walking, wildlife – your ULTIMATE trip

Kenya

Join Africa’s biggest tribal party

Estonia

Track bears through ancient forests

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HOW TO: be a Maasai warrior • take better travel photos • get into birdwatching

South America

Have you been to the must-see spots?

Instant escapes: ✱ San Francisco ✱ Guernsey ✱ Abu Dhabi

£3.99

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World in pictures

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ANTARCTICA

Penguin plunge Photographer David Doubilet

An accomplished underwater photographer, David Doubilet only “came late in life to the ice”. Now, he says, ice is in his blood. “I’ve been seduced by icebergs, and over the past few seasons, I’ve been working on them at every opportunity.

I think of icebergs as a perfect metaphor for the sea — only a small percentage is visible to us. We were lucky to find this bergy bit with aPhotographer small group of Penny chinstrap and gentoo penguins Piddock squabbling on top of it. I made a few frames of the idyllic scene before they began to push each other off, and slide down one side, pop up on the other and start over again. I love the combination of grey sky, white ice and black penguins against the colour of the water, and the curve of the wave with just a little bit of reflection underneath.”

David’s photographs appear in The Masters of Nature Photography (Natural History Museum, £30, out 19 Sept), a collection of images from past winners of the Wildlife Photographer Of The Year competition.

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Rare beauty There are thought to be up to 69,000 Bornean orang-utan left on the island

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Borneo 1

1

I I I

waterways and wild walks I Winding 1 past unique fauna, flora and culture I 1 I Fly UK-Bandar Seri Begawan, Kuching 1 1

or Kota Kinabalu via Dubai or Singapore

Š

Mar-Oct: dry season

BORNEO TRIP PLANNER Lush with jungle, riddled with rivers, bursting with wildlife and rich in culture-filled thrills, this South-East Asian isle is the place for those Born(eo) to be wild! Here’s our expert guide Words Paul Dixon

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Borneo

H

aving spent all afternoon huddled in a hammock, listening to rain thrash the corrugated iron roof above, it was with a certain anxiety that I stepped down the slimy steps into the flat-bottomed boat, which was gently rocking in the swollen river. The air was hot, wet and thick; the gunmetal-grey skies were drifting off to be replaced by a fading washed-out blue.

The captain started up the engine and we slipped away from our mooring, quietly gliding along the Santubong River. We passed the peninsula’s limestone humps and small stilted fishing villages, their wooden houses hanging precariously over the water’s edge.

Fifteen minutes into our journey, the captain cut the engines and pointed to a disturbed patch of river just as the slick, dark back of an Irrawaddy dolphin rolled into the water. A profound hush descended as we listened for more watery

signs of the dolphins’ presence. I craned my neck and spied several more playfully surfacing in the distance.

After handing out some refreshing chunks of sweet pineapple from an ice box, the captain had us on our way again.

We headed towards a shaking tree. High in the crux of some branches, a proboscis monkey – its nose swollen and long – stared bemusedly back at our boat before nonchalantly turning towards a friend to continue their discourse. We spent the next hour in this way, calmly sailing between dolphins and monkeys.

As the sky darkened, the moon rose over the hills, casting a long luminescent reflection on the inky river. Stilted villages in the distance flickered like fairy lights. We turned back, enjoying the bewitching silence that comes with the sudden fall of night on the water in the tropics.

Suddenly, the boat lurched and the driver switched on his torch, scanning the banks. A yellow eye shone back, followed by a splash and the visible flick of a tail; a man-eating saltwater crocodile had just

Kudat Peninsula

borneo

SOUTH CHINA SEA

lie of the land Borneo, the world’s third-largest island, is shared between three countries; Malaysia, Brunei and Indonesia. The Malaysian parts are collectively known as East Malaysia and are divided up into the states of Sarawak and Sabah.

The Indonesian part of Borneo is known as Kalimantan and is divided up into five provinces.

Brunei is a small independent nation on the north coast.

Kudat Kampung Kota Belud Bavanggazo Tuaran Kinabalu Sandakan NP Mt Kota Kinabalu Kinabalu

Klias Wetlands

Labuan

SABAH

BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN

BRUNEI Miri

M A L AY S I A Niah Caves NP

Mukah Sibu

Lahad Datu

Maliau Basin

Ulu Temburong NP

Danum Valley Conservation Area

Tawau

Semporna

Sipadan

Kelabit Highlands

SARAWAK

Rejang Ri ver

Batang Ai NP

Kuching Semenggoh

Sepilok

n River anga Kinabat

Gunung Mt Mulu NP Gunung Mulu

Bintulu

Bako NP

Sri Aman

Serian

INDONESIA Pontianak

Samarinda Meratus Mountains

KALIMANTAN

Balikpapan

Camp Leakey Pangkalan Bun 0

600km

Tanjung Puting NP

Loksado Banjarmasin

Previous spread: Dreamstime. This spread: Alamy; istockphoto

Must Sees ] Sarawak has a couple of excellent annual festivals that music lovers won’t want to miss.

The Rainforest World Music Festival is held in the Sarawak Cultural Village and attracts quality world music acts. Borneo Jazz is held in Miri over two days, and features notable jazz artists from Malaysia and beyond. ] Bandar Seri Begawan’s Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is the most elegant mosque in Borneo and has become the national symbol of Brunei. Take the lift to the top of the 44m-high minaret for views over the city.

slid into the gloomy water. The torch continued to meet menacing eyes as further deadly reptiles entered the river.

Definitely not the time for a dip.

A row of trees filled with glimmering and pulsating lights bade me farewell as I got off the boat: a firefly colony was having a blast on the opposite bank.

Since that first dusk in Sarawak, I have been enchanted by the charms of Borneo.

Nowadays, as a resident of nearby Singapore, I am able to easily enjoy getaways to the island’s wandering rivers and jungles teeming with unique flora and fauna – such as the Bornean orang-utan, Asian elephant and clouded leopard.

Memorable and gregarious nights under the stars at longhouses and music festivals are a huge draw, as are the museums detailing a rich and turbulent history. To blow the urban cobwebs from your soul, nothing beats hikes to secluded beaches, huge caves and remote mountain tops.

No matter how small or large your appetite for adventure is, Borneo is the one place guaranteed to satisfy it. >

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DID YOU KNOW?

Proboscis monkeys are known locally as orang belanda meaning ‘Dutchman’.

Purportedly, this is on account of their large noses!

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Wild & wonderful Borneo is one of the most biodiverse places on earth – look out for proboscis monkeys (above), Irrawaddy dolphins (left) and more.

Kuching (below), capital of Sarawak, is a good gateway

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Celebrating

South america

It’s been 90 years since Footprint first published the iconic South American Handbook, so we asked its editor what’s changed the most in the first country he ever visited – Colombia Words Ben Box

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Colombia Colourful past A couple walk through the historic neighbourhood in La Candelaria

Colombia

The South American country reasserting itself When to go

Punta Gallinas

Paraguachón

Ciudad Perdida

Islas del Rosario

CARACAS

PANAMA CITY

A EL

Capurganá

ZU

NE

VE

Cúcuta Medellín

PACIFIC OCEAN

Pereira Armenia

Villa de Leyva

Zipaquirá

Puente de Boyacá Guatavita Lake

BOGOTÁ

LOS LLANOS

Cali Popayán

Tierradentro San Agustín 0

500km

BRAZIL

Ipiales QUITO

Equator

ECUADOR AMAZON

Further info For comprehensive Colombia info, see our destination guide at www. wanderlust.co.uk/139. Also, see www. colombia.travel, the official tourism site.

jira

L

PANAMA

How to go There are no direct UK-Colombia flights. Common routings are via US cities such as Miami or Atlanta. Once there, domestic flights serve all major hubs from Bogotá. Long-distance buses are cheaper but slow.

Riohacha a Gua

Santa Marta CARIBBEAN Cartagena SEA

s

Colombia’s dry season, or verano (‘summer’), is DecemberMarch, with a second dry period midJune to mid-August (except in the northern plains). These are the best times to visit and when most festivals take place. Temperatures are fairly constant year round, varying with altitude more than season.

PERU

Amazon

Riv er

Leticia Tabatinga Getty

Ben Box has been editor of Footprint’s South American Handbook since 1989, and also contributes to its Peru, Bolivia, Uruguay and Paraguay Handbooks

FOOTNOTEs

de

funicular railway run to the summit, whose convent is a popular shrine. The view is magnificent. In the early 1980s, though, the SAH was adamant on one point: take a bus or taxi to the foot of the hill and never be tempted to walk down from the top; muggings are frequent even in daylight.

Dutifully I took an expensive tourist taxi.

Fast forward to today. On the evening I arrived I was eating at Crepes & Waffles (excellent for salads, as well as what the name of the chain suggests) with my friend Germán, who said, “Do you want to walk up Monserrate with me tomorrow?” First day at altitude; almost 2.5km steeply uphill before breakfast... why not?

We met early and walked unconcernedly to the start of the new path that has been built to the summit. We warmed up along with all the other power-walkers and runners. After setting off, Germán said, “See you later then,” and went up at his normal pace. I climbed at my ‘normal’ pace: walk 100 steps, stop and gasp, walk 100 steps, stop; I eventually made it. I took the funicular down, not for fear of muggers – the path is policed all the way – but for fear of missing breakfast. ■

An

> 3,152m peak east of the city. A cable car and

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Details online at: www.wanderlustoffer.co.uk/WL139 Subs spread 139_thv3.indd 22

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SUBSCRIPTIONS

An offer to smile about...

5 issues of Wanderlust for only £5*

+

Receive a FREE £50 travel voucher towards your next trip.

See page 142 for more details

Call us on: 01753 620426 and quote WL139 * TERMS & CONDITIONS: This offer is not available in conjunction with any other promotion. To pay by Direct Debit both the billing and postal address must be in the UK. Subscriptions are continuous; after the first payment of £5, a payment of £15.00 will be collected every six months unless cancelled. No minimum term. Please allow up to four weeks for delivery of travel voucher.

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Estonia 1

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I Spot1wild bears, racoon dogs and other wildlife staking out the ancient forest 1 I while

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Fly UK-Tallinn (2hrs 45mins); hire a car to access nature reserves 1 1

Apr-Oct for bears

HIDE AND SEEK

There’s no need to travel far for close bear encounters: the wild, prehistoric woods of eastern Estonia, easily accessible from Tallinn, are rich in atmosphere and enormous creatures Words & Photographs William Gray

Shadow play Two European brown bears silhouetted at sunset

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Estonia

Fashionably tardy Would you tell the European Brown Bear that it is late?

ancestral members of the canid family, indigenous to East Asia and introduced to the Baltic States in the mid-1900s – mainly, it seemed, to be hunted for their fur. Their latin name meant ‘night wanderer’. Our pair of masked marauders quickly located the stash of goodies put out for the bears, pausing occasionally to mewl at each other or sniff the night air.

A small solar-powered bulb fixed high on a tree trunk began to wash a faint silver pool of light across the clearing. The raccoon dogs dragged their bounty out of sight, a Tengelmann’s owl trilled once, then the forest fell silent. Empty and silent.

Hours ebbed by in the murky slide towards night and the ratcheting of ISO numbers on my camera. It was 2am when we finally gave up our vigil.

If you go down to the woods...

Two foxes, two raccoon dogs and a raven: not bad for a night of wildlife watching I thought as I ransacked the breakfast buffet at the Aqva Hotel & Spa. We had emerged from the hide at around 7.30am and driven to the nearby town of Rakvere, squinting as the forest gave way to farmland raked by early sunlight. We’d stopped to watch white storks standing sentinel on their twiggy nests atop farmhouse roofs, and to train our binoculars on common cranes flouncing about the fields.

But bears were still prowling my mind.

Triin had already asked if I wanted to try the hide again that night, and I had said yes – despite the fact that I’d just checked into a luxurious hotel where I could sleep in a proper bed and eat as noisily as I liked.

After a brief siesta and a quick look at Rakvere’s 700-year-old fort, we drove east again, dawdling along the network of gravel roads that burrowed into the ancient boreal forests of Alutaguse. We were rewarded with two sightings in quick succession – one of a black woodpecker, the other of a pine marten scampering across the track ahead.

And although we never saw one, there were signs of beaver everywhere: chiseled stumps of aspen, log dams and tannin-rich pools.

But the biggest find during our afternoon’s tracking was a set of fresh prints. The rounded forepaw and the larger, oval hindpaw were so clearly stamped in the mud that we could see the individual impressions of each claw. Triin backtracked and pieced together the bear’s moves: where it had emerged from the forest, crossed the track, browsed on birch saplings then tried to cross a flooded ditch, slipped, changed its mind and then ambled off in the general direction of the hide.

The hide? Triin nodded. These tracks were from last night, probably a big male.

The raccoon dogs put in an early appearance at 8pm that night, but they were upstaged by a mini wildlife drama inside the

hide when a column of ants discovered our stash of crunch-free cookies.

Better late than never It was 1.30am when Triin whispered: “Brown bear – coming in from the right.”

A large, rounded shadow morphed into snout and ears, hunched shoulders and stocky legs as the bear strode into the clearing. It was the male; probably the same bear that had been regularly visiting the clearing for the past few days. Triin’s voice was so calm, so controlled. Inside my head, a rather more exuberant voice was bouncing around my skull, screaming ‘Bear! Bear!’

“The territories of male European brown bears can be 40 sq km,” Triin continued.

“No other bears, especially females with cubs, will come near while he’s around.”

Yes, but look, it’s a bear!

Using binoculars I could see the glint of the tree-mounted floodlight in his eye and watch the shimmy of fur on his back as he rooted around for titbits. Occasionally, he paused and lifted his head – light etching his profile in silver against the charcoalstroke chaos of the night-time forest.

I struggled to keep the bear in my sights as his foraging took him further from the pool of light. One moment he was there, the next he had merged back into the shadows – bear and wildwood as one. ■ Wanderlust contributing editor William Gray is author of Footprint’s Wildlife Travel guidebook

Alamy

> to North America’s raccoons but are

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Estonia Footnotes VITAL STATISTICS

Capital: Tallinn Population: 1.3 million Language: Estonian Time: GMT+2 (summer GMT+3) International dialling code: +372 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Euro (€), currently around €1.18 to the UK£. ATMs are widely available and credit cards are accepted at hotels, restaurants and shops.

When to go Jan

Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

■ Apr-Jun: Brown bears emerge from hibernation. Forests are full of birdsong and spring migration is underway as millions of birds head north to Arctic breeding grounds.

■ Jul-Oct: Best time for outdoor activities.

Sep-Oct is when brown bears feed up before hibernation; elk mating; autumn colours. The migration passes south through Estonia.

■ Nov-Mar: Cold. Tallinn’s Christmas market (23 Nov 13-8 Jan 14; www. christmasmarket.ee).

Feb-Mar large flocks of sea ducks, such as Steller’s eider, overwinter along the coast.

Health & safety For state-provided medical treatment, obtain a free European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Tick-borne encephalitis occurs in forested areas –regularly check for bites if hiking during the summer.

Further reading & information Estonia (Bradt, 2010) is the most authoritative guidebook. Alternatives are available from Dorling Kindersley (2011), Lonely Planet (2012) and Rough Guides (2011). www.visitestonia.com – tourist board

More online Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/139 for links to more content: Archive articles

Short break: Tallinn – issue 135, Mar 13 7 things for free: Tallinn – online, Apr 13 Baltic States blueprint – issue 103, Apr/ May 09

Planning guides

Estonia guide

The trip

cost-effective way to travel between Tallinn and destinations such as Narva, Rakvere and Tartu. The Tallinn Card (from €24 [£20] for 24hrs; www.tourism.tallinn.ee) offers free use of the capital’s public transport, plus free entry to dozens of attractions.

The author travelled with local nature specialist Natourest (+372 5555 8755, natourest.ee), which offers a variety of wildlife trips. An expert-guided two-day bear-watching tour in Alutaguse costs €100 (£85) pp, including a night in a forest hide.

A seven-night autumn wildlife quest costs from €1,990pp (£1,690) based on two travelling (less for groups), including fullboard stays in local hotels and guesthouses.

Cost of travel Expect to pay around €5-10 (£4.258.50) for a meal in a typical café. Buses are the cheapest way to travel – a ticket from Tallinn to Tartu costs about €10 (£8.50).

Petrol costs around €1.30 (£1.10) a litre.

Getting there EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies Gatwick-Tallinn direct from around £70 return. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies to Tallinn from London Stansted and Manchester (3 hrs). Ferries operate between Tallinn and both Stockholm (15 hours) and Helsinki (two hours). Tallinn to Moscow by sleeper train takes 15 hours.

Accommodation You could spend a few euros a night camping, or €200 (£170) a night for a deluxe room at Rakvere’s Aqva Hotel & Spa (aqvahotels.ee). Tallinn’s cosy Taanilinna Hotel (tallinnhotels.ee/taanilinna-hoteltallinn) is a good mid-range option. Doubles cost from around €70 (£60), B&B.

Getting around

Food & drink

With its compact size and good roads, Estonia is easy to drive around – major car hire companies can be found at the airport.

It takes roughly two hours to drive from Tallinn to the Alutaguse area in north-east Estonia. Good-value buses link towns and cities, while the rail system offers another

Estonia highlights

Olde Hansa (oldehansa.ee), a medieval restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town, offers a Royal Hunting Feast of everything from wild boar sausages to roast elk for €72pp (£61). Kompressor (kompressorpub.ee) serves enormous stuffed pancakes. ■

100km

0

FINLAND

HELSINKI

1. Tallinn Explore cobbled streets winding beneath the spires of 14thcentury churches in the World Heritage-listed Old Town, which also has a lively café culture and a range of boutiques.

2. Alutaguse This remote swathe of forest is a prime spot for bearwatching from hides and tracking other critters, such as elk and beaver.

3. Lahemaa National Park Estonia’s largest national park covers nearly 500 sq km of forest, as well as a crinkle-cut coast and numerous lakes and rivers – ideal for hiking, cycling and canoeing.

Lahemaa NP

1

BALTIC SEA

TALLINN N

3

Gulf of Finland 2

Rakvere Lake Peipus

ESTONIA

6

4

Pärnu Saaremaa

RUSSIA

Tartu Tart Ta 5

LATVIA

4. Tartu Gateway to Estonia’s south, this leafy university town has a vibrant mix of galleries, cafés and museums.

5. Pärnu Estonia’s premier seaside

resort has golden-sand beaches and lively nightlife.

6. Saaremaa A rural time capsule, Estonia’s largest island boasts the magnificent castle of Kuressaare.

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How to | Skills | Gear | Health | Photo tips | Q&A

Navigator

“Polar bears are fierce, fast, well-armed and always hungry...” Dr Jane gives her wildlife safety advice, p74

Travel need-to-knows, from eating poisonous puffer fish to pumpkin sundaes...

Take my advice

How to... be a Maasai warrior

Let me entertain you Jumping, singing and dancing are key to being a successful warrior

Mindy Budgor, author and world’s first female Maasai warrior, gives her insider tips

1

Pray Send a prayer to whomever or whatever you believe in, and if you don’t believe in anything, find something because you are in for a wild ride!

2 3

Buy a spear and a sword A key to being a warrior is that you can protect.

Find a mentor Persuade a Maasai (preferably a warrior) to take you under his wing. Hopefully soon you will have a choice of male or female as the tribe is working to change the law to allow girls to become warriors.

4

Go without Leave all of your material possessions behind, including: a roof over your head, a bed to sleep on, electricity and your mobile. If resources are slim, you go hungry.

5

Drink blood Go to orpul, a meat-eating ritual deep in the forest, to learn how to use your spear and sword. You will also learn how to kill for food, and survive with the elephants, hippos and leopards.

Orpul will teach you that in order to be a warrior, you need to be mentally resilient, physically tenacious and soulfully aligned.

6

Entertain A key responsibility of the warrior is to entertain the community. They constantly sing and dance in times of happiness, sadness and everywhere in between. Don’t worry if you can’t jump seven feet in the air – they will accept you even if you can only jump a few inches off the ground.

7

Mindy Budgor is author of Warrior Princess: My Quest to Become the First Female Maasai Warrior (Murdoch Books, £12.99), out now

Dreamstime

Never hide To protect the community, a warrior needs to be fearless. The only way you can be free from fear is by acting – never hiding. Warriors are always the first ones to step up to the plate.

Did you know? The more cattle a Maasai warrior owns, the richer he is considered to be. A warrior who owns around 20 cattle or less is considered poor, while the richest warriors may own 1,000 or more Wanderlust September 2013 | 71

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Navigator Gear

3 1

2

D G

G IS ET Ro et 10 CO A % h S for tore an, N off g UN inf s an om ear T! o c ww laim rmad Bo ad T from w m ti bs rav ma .wa one on o Boo el ga nd y o n h ks on zin erlu ff, v ow t – ‘Ho e an st.c isit o t O d c o.u ffe lic k/ rs’ k

10 9

What to pack... for birdwatching

4

1 THE KIT CARRIER Made from heavy-duty G-1000 fabric, the Fjällräven Vintage Shoulder Bag has multiple pockets and classic style (£75, fjallraven.com) 2 THE WATERPROOF WONDER Keep your phone, GPS or other gadgets dry in the Aquapac Small Whanganui case (£20, aquapac.net) 3 THE NIFTY NOTEBOOK With the all-weather paper Rite in Rain Birder’s Journal, you can record sightings even in a storm (£8.99, riteintherain.com) 4 THE WARMER-UPPER The UK-made Snugpak SJ6 insulated jacket packs away small but keeps you comfy down to -5°C (£119.95, snugpak.com) 5 THE BENDABLE BOOT Wellingtons have always been a bit unwieldy for travel – until now! The Hunter Original Tour Foldable Wellies squeeze down into small spaces (£79, thewellyshop.com) 6 THE CONVENIENT VEST The lightweight Royal Robbins Field Guide Vest has 17 pockets and a tab at the back of the neck to secure binoculars (£80, royalrobbins.co.uk) 7 THE ALL-TERRAIN TROUSERS Rohan’s Trailblazers Convertible dry quick, stretch for comfort, repel insects, zip off and have five secure pockets for your birding bits and bobs (£90, rohan.co.uk) 8 THE ON-THEME HEADPIECE Buff’s new Bird Collection updates its original multi-functional headwear, with a twitcher twist (£13, buffwear.co.uk) 9 THE BRILLIANT BINS The EL 8x32 Swarovski Swarovision binocular is a sound investment: light, waterproof, high-def, superb quality. (£1,570, swarovskioptik.com) 10 THE BIRDERS’ BOTTLE Nalgene’s BPA-free Oasis Foliage Everyday Canteen is big but portable, and made from Eastman Tritan – durable, and cool too. (£10.95, alloutdoor.co.uk)

8

6 5 7

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Kenya 1

1

I I I

I Aside1 from tribal culture, there’s Big and Indian Ocean coast 1 I 5 wildlife

I

Fly UK-Nairobi direct; book a charter flight, hire a 4WD or take buses to Turkana 1 1

©

May-Jun, for Lake Turkana Festival

the real tribal gathering

The remote Lake Turkana Festival is a vibrant, flirtatious, raucous, befeathered celebration of Kenyan tribal life. We join the party Words & photographs Richard Trillo

On the road to Kenya’s biggest tribal gathering: the Lake Turkana Festival Richard Trillo

Scene stealers Samburu girls dance in fake-flower headdresses, silver chains and an abundance of beads

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The

big

Nine Your guide to finding, tracking and encountering the world’s most amazing species Photographs unless otherwise stated: Paul Goldstein Words Sarah Baxter

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Wildlife Special

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1

PENGUIN

FAST FACTS: ESTIMATED GLOBAL POPULATION: Numerous – 18 species; most common is the Macaroni (18 million) GEOGRAPHICAL SPREAD: Southern Hemisphere CHARACTERISTICS: Weight Up to 40kg (Emperor) Body length Up to 1m (Emperor) Life-span – 15-20 years

THE EXPERIENCE The Antarctic Treaty insists you keep five metres between yourself and a penguin; the only problem is, no one has told the penguins.

There you are, sitting on the icy shingle, trying hard to stick to the rules, but these endlessly curious birds just won’t let you.

They waddle over as soon as your little boat runs ashore. They cock their heads whenever you move. At one point you think it would be nice to take a picture of just the scenery, but a limelighthogging bird walks right up to your lens. Then takes a good peck.

There are penguins absolutely everywhere: their bodies – greywhite adults, brown fluffy chicks – are spread along the beach, up the slopes and almost to the snow peaks beyond. The air is raucous with their chatter, and heavy with their whiff. Noisy, nosy and smelly to boot – it’s lucky they’re so cute.

Penguins are found across the southern hemisphere, and encounters with them vary by location. The southern Atlantic island of South Georgia is the prime spot. To sail here and disembark on Salisbury Plain – home to around 500,000 kings – is probably penguin nirvana. But there are many other options. Australia’s night parades – where penguins troop up certain beaches at dusk – are reliable, family-friendly options. In New Zealand you can spot rare yellow-eyed penguins just a short drive from Dunedin. In the Galápagos you can snorkel with the most northerly ranging species.

WHERE FOUND? ] ANTARCTICA &

SOUTHERN SEAS WHERE: Antarctic Peninsula (various colonies, including Hope Bay for Adélies, Port Lockroy for gentoos, Snow Hill for emperors); South Georgia; Falkland Islands.

WHEN: Nov-Mar. To generalise, penguins court/build nests Nov-Dec; chicks hatch Dec-Feb; chicks moult and fledge Feb-Mar. However, there are some species variations.

HOW: Cruise ship; Zodiac inflatable; kayak (carried by some cruise ships); on foot. ] SOUTH AMERICA WHERE: Southern tip and west coast, including: Isla Magdalena, Chile; Peninsula Tombo, Argentina; Galápagos Islands, Ecuador.

WHEN: Oct-Mar for Magellanic penguins breeding around the Patagonian coast. Galápagos penguins can be seen year-round

but are more abundant Jun-Nov, drawn by good fishing in the colder waters (pack a wetsuit).

HOW: Cruise ship; small vessel; on foot; diving/snorkelling (Galápagos).

OTHER: Accessible hotspots include: Boulders Beach, South Africa (jackass penguins); Phillip Island, Victoria, and Kangaroo Island, South Australia (little); Oamaru and Otago Peninsula, New Zealand (blue, yellow-eyed).

INSIDER TIP “In Antarctica, the ship you chose is vital. Jumping aboard some cruiser that breaks every Antarctic Treaty regulation will seriously negate your holiday. Before booking, ask how many times you’ll be getting off – if the answer is less than twice a day, book another expedition.”

Paul Goldstein, travel expert & wildlife photographer

BONUS SPECIES TO SPOT Antarctica: leopard seal, elephant seal, humpback whale, fin whale, southern right whale, orca, dolphin, albatross. Other: marine iguana, land iguana, giant tortoise, Darwin’s finches (Galápagos); kangaroo, wallaby, koala, wombat (Australia).

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Wildlife Special

2

jaguar

Fast facts: Estimated global population: Unknown – possibly 15,000 Geographical spread: Central & South America Characteristics: Weight 54-158kg (male) Body length 150-180cm Life-span 12 year Where found? ] Brazil Where: Pantanal (most accessible off the Transpantaneira Highway); Amazon region (jaguars present, though hard to spot).

When: Head to the Pantanal in dry season (late Apr-early Nov) – animals congregate around remaining water. Dense vegetation makes spotting tougher during the wet.

How: Boat trips; 4WD safaris; horseback safaris; guided walks; lodges (many gardens here contain more wildlife than entire reserves in other parts of the world). ] Central America Where: Cockscomb Basin Jaguar Preserve, Belize (the best bet in the region, though sightings still unlikely; signs of jaguar activity possible); Corcovado NP, Costa Rica.

When: The rainy season (Belize: Jun-Jan), when these remarkable

cats are more active.

How: On foot – with enormous amounts of luck.

Other: Possible, though unlikely, across South American jungle.

Insider tip “At the end of the Transpantaneira Highway, right on the Cuiabá River, the area around the Hotel Porto Jofre is the best to see jaguar anywhere in the cats’ range; most sightings are within striking distance of the conjunction between the Cuiabá, Three Brothers and Piquiri rivers, about an hour from the hotel by boat.”

Mark Carwardine TV naturalist & author of Ultimate Wildlife Experiences

Bonus species to spot Giant otter, capybara, tapir, coati, ocelot, peccary, howler monkey, anteater, hyacinth macaw, toucan, anaconda.

<

The experience It seems you’re driving through a wildlife soup. There are creatures everywhere. Caiman are snoozing in the shallows; capybara are grazing on the scrub; marmosets are scampering up the tree trunks; each lake, stream and puddle is flocked by birds of all kinds – kingfishers, storks, egrets, more. And this is just along the main highway.

When you reach the end of the road, it’s time to explore this wetland by boat. As you push between the water lilies, there’s a momentary distraction as a giant river otter dives beneath the water, but mostly your eyes are fixed on the banks. Patch of shadow after patch of shadow is dissected by your gaze until... unmistakable – that’s no sun dapple: you’re looking at the rosettes of a wild male jaguar.

He is absolutely enormous, a muscly brute with a thick head and cold stare. But he is also unperturbed by your presence and sits quietly while you gawp, as if fully aware he’d win any scrap paws-down.

Jaguar are notoriously difficult to see, being shy, nocturnal creatures living in an overgrown environment. However, the Brazilian Pantanal seems to be the exception, and sightings at one particular spot on the Cuiabá River are almost daily in the dry season.

Cats are usually alone, but you may spot a mother with cubs, or a cat swimming from one bank to the other. Night drives from the area’s lodges may also provide a glimpse. And even if the big cats remain elusive, the general wildlife-viewing is spectacular.

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The world’s best birds: ticklist ■✓ ■✓ Had your beak whetted? Here’s our guide to the showiest, noisiest, weirdest and wonderful birds on the planet ...how many can you tick off?

Andean cock-of-the-rock Distinctive characteristics: The males have a fan-shaped crest; brilliant blood-orange plumage; contrasting black-and-grey body – striking and immediately recognisable.

Where to find it: The cloudforests of the Andes, from Venezuela to Bolivia; national bird of Peru.

Difficulty of spotting: Moderate. The birds congregate in leks – arenas where males display to prospective mates.

✓ ■

Lilac-breasted roller Distinctive characteristics: Vibrant lilac breast, green heads and iridescent turquoise on wings. Performs an acrobatic flight during courtship, dramatically plummeting while rolling or rocking from side to side.

Where to find it: Woodlands and open brush in East Africa, Ethiopia and Somalia.

Difficulty of spotting: Easy. Often found perching on trees, bushes or fence posts.

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Emperor penguin Distinctive characteristics: The heavyweight of the penguin world – 1m tall and 40kg. The only animals to breed during the winter; males guard over newly laid eggs for around two months while females go in search of food.

Where to find it: Antarctica.

Difficulty of spotting: Difficult, unless you take certain Antarctic cruises that helicopter or fly in to colonies (eg at Snow Hill Island). To see young chicks, visit Nov-Jan.

Shoebill Distinctive characteristics: Stork-like in stature (up to 1.5m tall). Intimidating shoe-shaped bill, up to 23cm long.

Almost prehistoric looking. Prefer to live alone. Often stand still for extended periods.

Where to find it: The swamps of central and eastern Africa are a good bet.

Difficulty of spotting: Moderate. Uganda is one of the best places.

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Blue-footed booby Distinctive characteristics: Brown-white plumage; yellow eyes; vivid blue webbed feet. During mating, males perform a curious ‘dance’, lifting their feet and pointing their heads and wings skywards. ’Booby’ comes from the Spanish bobo (stupid), apt for their ungainly strut.

Where to find it: The south-west coast of the Americas, from California to Chile, including the Galápagos Islands.

Difficulty of spotting: Easy, especially in the Galápagos.

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Wandering albatross Distinctive characteristics: Largely white, with black wing tips. The largest wingspan of any living bird (up to 3.5m) and travels vast distances (up to 6,000km in 12 days). Fencing-style courtship display.

Where to find it: Southern Ocean and sub-Antarctic islands.

Difficulty of spotting: Fairly easy if you’re on an Antarctic cruise.

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Superb lyrebird Distinctive characteristics: Brown songbird. Males have feathered tails, delicate as lace; during courtship he fans it out in a grandiose display. Ability to mimic sounds with amazing accuracy – from car alarms to human voices.

Where to find it: Damp forests or wet woodlands of south-east Australia.

Difficulty of spotting: Moderate. Found on the ground during the day, in trees at night.

Hornbill Distinctive characteristics: Several species – all typically have dark feathers with bright bills. The large, often casqued, colourful down-curved bill makes them easy to identify.

Where to find it: Forests and scrubland of sub-Saharan Africa and Asia.

Difficulty of spotting: Medium. Best months to see vary by location. In some regions, flocks of up to 200 may gather in the same tree.

Andean condor Distinctive characteristics: Large – typically weigh around 15kg; one of the biggest bird species able to fly.

Shiny black plumage; white neck ruff. Roost on cliffs; spend days gliding motionlessly on thermal air currents.

Where to find it: Mountain and coastal regions of South America, from Venezuela to Chile.

Difficulty of spotting: Getting more difficult as numbers crash. Colca Canyon in Peru is famous for them.

Kiwi Distinctive characteristics: Flightless, pear-shaped bird, similar in size to a chicken. Leathery skin; feathers like hair.

The only bird to have nostrils at the end of its beak.

Where to find it: New Zealand, mostly in forests; also found in scrub and grassland.

Difficulty of spotting: Moderate on Stewart Island; hard elsewhere. Few New Zealanders have seen their national bird.

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Scotland

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Wilson’s bird-of-paradise Distinctive characteristics: Spiralling tail feathers and a riotous plumage (yellow cape, red back, turquoise crown, green breast) – one of the planet’s most colourful species.

Bizarre display ritual.

Where to find it: Hill forests of the West Papuan islands of Waigeo and Batanta, Indonesia.

Difficulty of spotting: Moderate. Most easily seen in the dry season (May-Oct).

Kakapo Distinctive characteristics: The heaviest parrot in the world, and also the only flightless one. Mottled, yellow-green plumage. A loud booming call. Nocturnal.

Where to find it: Whenua Hou (Codfish Island) and Anchor Island, New Zealand.

Difficulty of spotting: Hard. Fewer than 150 remain and the islands they inhabit are difficult to visit, especially after the night falls.

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Arctic tern Distinctive characteristics: Small seabird (up to 40cm long). Black head; pale grey/white plumage; red bill.

Famed for biannual 70,000km pole-to-pole migration.

Where to find it: Open waters, rocky shores and icy edges of glaciers at the poles. Found along African and Brazilian coastlines during migration. Breed in the Arctic; some breed as far south as Scotland/northern England.

Difficulty of spotting: Likely on Arctic or Antarctic cruises.

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Hyacinth macaw Distinctive characteristics: The world’s longest parrot – 1m from head to tail. Bright-blue feathers with yellow rings round the beak.

Where to find it: Grasslands and forests of Brazil, eastern Bolivia, northeastern Paraguay.

Difficulty of spotting: Moderate. They’re sadly endangered but are very conspicuous if present. The Pantanal is a good spot.

Lesser flamingo Distinctive characteristics: The smallest species of flamingo (around 90cm) but also the most numerous.

Pale pink-and-white plumage; deep-red bill. Gathers in vast flocks of up to tens of thousands.

Where to find it: Eastern, central and southern Africa, particularly Kenya. Also parts of Spain, Asia and Middle East.

Difficulty of spotting: Easy. Found in great numbers on Rift Valley lakes.

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Dreamstime; Alamy; istockphoto; Getty

African fish eagle Distinctive characteristics: Striking bird of prey – white head, chestnut body, black wings. Hunts by swiftly swooping down on a body of water from a high branch. Distinctive call, which carries for miles – dubbed ‘the voice of Africa’.

Where to find it: Sub-Saharan Africa, typically near rivers and lakes.

Difficulty of spotting: Easy. Look for them perched on dead trees next to lakes.

✓ ■ Resplendent quetzal Distinctive characteristics: It’s aptly named. Males have elongated, emerald-green tail feathers that are longer than its body; females are less colourful with shorter feathers.

Where to find it: Cloudforests of Central America, from southern Mexico to western Panama.

Difficulty of spotting: Moderate. The easiest place to find them is probably Costa Rica, especially on fruiting wild avocado trees.

Malachite kingfisher Distinctive characteristics: Awash with colour – ruby-red beak; metallic-blue upper; violet-hued tail feather. Perches close to water.

Where to find it: In the reeds near the water – where they perch while waiting for a good fishing opportunity – is a reliable spotting point, sub-Saharan Africa.

Difficulty of spotting: Easy. Widespread, though Uganda is particularly good.

Atlantic puffin Distinctive characteristics: Almost penguin-like. Bright orange feet; white cheeks and chest; colourful bill (which dulls in winter). Return from sea to breed in cliff-side burrows (usually Feb-Aug). Gather in large colonies.

Where to find it: North Atlantic seacoasts and islands, often on rocky cliff tops.

Difficulty of spotting: Easy, in the spring breeding season. During autumn and winter they are at sea.

Hummingbird Distinctive characteristics: Tiny family of birds. Earns its name from the sound it makes while hovering mid-air – can flap its wings up to 80 times a second. Can also fly right, left, up, down, backwards and even upside down.

Where to find it: Americas. Your best bet is sitting outside a café/lodge that has hung up sugar-water feeders.

Difficulty of spotting: Easy. Hummingbirds appear across a range of habitats.

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First 24 hours

abu dhabi united arab emirates From barren to bustling Once a small coastal town, Abu Dhabi has transformed itself into an exciting capital city

Where? Northern coast of the United Arab Emirates Why? Desert, beaches and an abundance of Middle Eastern hospitality When? November-February

✃

Alamy

Before you arrive Capital of the United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi has long languished in the shadow of Dubai – an hour’s drive north-east – but the city is fast emerging as a destination in its own right. While Dubai is futuristic and hedonistic, Abu Dhabi prides itself on being a cultural alternative with some of the finest mosques and museums in the whole of the Middle East.

There are the gargantuan shopping malls and glitzy hotels one would expect from the UAE, but also small heritage villages that offer a glimpse of days gone by.

While very much a place that holds dear its past, change is coming to Abu Dhabi at a rapid pace. Plans are well underway for a new cultural district that will shine a global spotlight on the city. Due for completion in 2020, the vast

©

Historic and cultured, Abu Dhabi is fast emerging from Dubai’s shadow. From the city’s famous Corniche to the lush desert oasis of Al Ain, there’s much to admire here says Nick Boulos

International Airport, located 40km complex on Saadiyat Island from the city centre. As a growing (saadiyat.ae) will include eyehub linking travellers from the UK to catching architecture housing Asia and beyond, it has everything branches of the Louvre and you’d need and expect from a 21st Guggenheim museums (due to open century airport. There’s free wi-fi, in 2015 and 2017 respectively) and ATMs, more than a dozen currency the Zayed National Museum, exchange booths and free of charge dedicated to Islamic art. showers (available near departure Beyond the city, Abu Dhabi is wild gates 32 and 37). There are lounges and untamed with landscapes of available to economy infinite deserts best explored passengers for a by camel or 4x4 and charge of AED100 underwater worlds of (£18). You’ll find shipwrecks and coral Exploring Abu Dhabi by a tourism office in reefs. With all this and foot can be a sweaty and arrivals. Taxis and more, Abu Dhabi tiring experience but the city is blessed with a cheap public buses are challenges everything and efficient bus network available outside you think you know (www.ojra.ae). One-way the terminal. about the Emirates. tickets cost just AED2 (35p)

best deal

At the airport

International flights (duration from Heathrow is around seven hours) land at Abu Dhabi

Getting into town

Passengers arriving at the airport have three transfer options:

metered taxis, fixed fared limousines and shuttle buses.

A limo will set you back AED120 (£22) while a taxi will cost around AED75 (£13). Shuttle buses offer the cheapest transfer (www.ojra.ae).

The green and white 901 bus connects all three terminals to downtown Abu Dhabi, where the service terminates at the Old Fish Market on Al Nasr St. Journey time is 45 minutes with departures running around the clock every 40 minutes. A one-way ticket costs just AED3 (50p).

Other ways to arrive

Abu Dhabi is easily reached from Dubai. The two cities, just 90 minutes drive apart, are linked by regular buses (www.rta.ae), which depart from Dubai’s Ghubaiba bus station. A one-way fare is AED20 (£3.50). <

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Wanderlust Pocket Guides <

ABU DHABI ORIENTATION

Stroll along the Corniche and enjoy the majestic Grand Mosque

Population: 2.5 million Language: Arabic Timezone: GMT+4 International dialling code: +971 (2) Visas: Not required by British passport holders.

Currency: United Arab Emirati Dirham (AED), currently around AED5.6 to the UK£.

Highest viewpoint: The Observatory Deck at 300 on the 74th floor of Jumeirah at Etihad Towers number 2 (+971 2 811 5666; www.jumeirah.com).

Health: No vaccinations are required for travel. The biggest health risk is the intense Arabian sun. Take care to avoid heatstroke and dehydration.

Recommended guidebooks: Dubai & Abu Dhabi (Lonely Planet,

First day’s tour

Give the day a spiritual start with a visit to the appropriately named Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque 40 10 (+971 2 441 6444, www.szgmc.ae).

One of the biggest in the world, it is 30 7.5 the only mosque in the city to allow entry to non-Muslims. Inside, the 20 5 sprawling complex is one of Greek marble columns, chandeliers of 10 2.5 Swarovski crystals and 82 majestic white domes. Remember to dress 0 0 respectfully and pay your respects JFMAMJJASOND ■ Rainfall (average) Temperature (average high) to the UAE’s first president whose tomb stands within the complex.

2012), The Rough Guide to From there, venture downtown Dubai & the United Arab Emirates and stroll along the 3km-long (Rough Guide, 2009).

Corniche. Pause for a paddle on the Web resources: adjacent blue-flag beach before The official Abu Dhabi tourism heading to the nearby Abu Dhabi website (www.visitabudhabi.ae) Heritage Village (+971 2 681 4455), offers a comprehensive look at the city. designed to replicate how Emiratis iPhone app: The iThinkDiff once lived. The site, which includes an Arabic Dictionary app interesting museum, is also (ithinkdiff.net) is useful for a good spot for lunch. language translation.

From there, shop ‘til Climate: you drop in the Caring for the much-loved Temperatures are three-storey national emblem of the high year-round air-conditioned UAE, the award-winning though winter Abu Dhabi Falcon Hospital nights can be chilly. (+971 2 575 5155; falconhospital.com) offers Summers are hot visitors an up-close glimpse and humid with of these impressive temperatures rising to birds of prey 48°C. Winter is more bearable with average temperatures of 24°C. 50

˚C

mm 12.5

DON’T MISS!

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Abu Dhabi

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

The St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort, Abu Dhabi; istockphoto, Nick Boulos

First night’s sleep

Big is beautiful in the Emirates and there’s no shortage of high-end resorts to choose from in Abu Dhabi. ] Top end: The new 377-room St. Regis on Saadiyat Island (+971 2 498 8888, stregissaadiyatisland.com) delivers on five-star comfort and style.

There’s a spa, four restaurants and miles of pristine beachfront to enjoy.

Doubles from AED1,300 (£220), including breakfast. ] Mid-range: Located within the Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre is

St. Regis

the trendy Aloft Hotel (+971 2 654 5000; www.aloftabudhabi.com).

Rooms are design led and the rooftop pool is the perfect place to cool down. Doubles from AED300 (£50), including breakfast. ] Budget: The rooms at the centrally located Al Diar Mina Hotel (+971 2 678 1000; www.aldiarhotels. com) are a little tired but comfortable and spacious. Many offer nice views over the Gulf. Doubles from AED180 (£31), room only.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Abu Dhabi Mall (9th St, +971 2 645 4858, www.abudhabi-mall.com) or the fragrant Al Meena markets .

Speed fiends will enjoy Yas Island, located to the east. Here you’ll find the Yas Marina Circuit (+971 2 659 9800, www.yasmarinacircuit.com), home of the Abu Dhabi Formula One Grand Prix, where it’s possible to tour the track and go for a drive. Finish the day at Abdel Wahab (Souk Qaryat Al Beri, +971 2 558 1616) for some delicious mezze and shisha (fruit flavoured tobacco smoked through a water pipe) with views of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.

Stay or go?

Stay, but only for a day or two. Abu Dhabi itself makes for an unusual stopover en route to the Far East or Australasia but it is not one of the world’s greatest cities.

Those with time to spare should consider travelling further afield within the UAE: to the skyscrapers and souks of Dubai or the desert oasis of Al-Ain, home to historic forts and lively camel markets. When it comes to Dubai, it’s helpful to put preconceptions to one side. Yes, it’s big and brash but it’s also layered with an intriguing past and invigorating present, with some of the finest food and drink in the region. Cruise the

busy Dubai Creek on a rickety abra (wooden boat) and venture to the top of the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa (+971 4 888 8124; atthetop.ae) that stands at 828m.

A two-hour drive further south of Abu Dhabi is Al-Ain. Known as the Garden City for its 150,000 date palms, it’s the country’s second largest city and sits on the border with Oman.

Main attractions include the former royal residence of Al Jahili Fort, built in 1891, and the Al-Ain National Museum displaying archaeological exhibits from the Bronze Age. Then, once you’ve done all that, why not hop across the border into Oman? ■

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Essential info

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