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Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra, Kyiv, Ukraine
Atop the forested hillsides of central Kyiv, the golden domes of the cathedral of Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra glint in the sun-streaked skies. Since the 11th century, when this complex was founded as a cave monastery (“pecherska” means “of the caves”), the site has been a beacon to pilgrims. Much later, travellers arrived, eager to peer through the murk of its catacombs and explore tombs, cave churches and important religious art. Together with the nearby St Sophia’s Cathedral, the city’s oldest standing church, this UNESCO-listed complex makes up one of Europe’s most important Orthodox Christian sites. They’re not just impressive on the outside; inside, their frescoes and art point to a time when this was the intellectual heart of the region. Along with people and hope, these are the things that war strips away: the cultural soul of a place. With reports of Russian troops destroying historical and artistic artefacts, as countless invaders have done in the past, it’s important that we remember and celebrate these sites. © Olga Tarasyuk / Alamy
#StandWithUkraine
VIEWFINDER
Gear 220
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CHROME
ART
Niko Camera Sling 3.0, £130 This bag’s cross-body strap with quick release buckle and top zip opening means your camera gear is always accessible at speed. Its fully customisable main compartment and pockets (to organise cables, cards, film) even have room for a full DSLR with 70–200mm lens. chromeindustries.com
JET CANDY
Travel Essence, £14.99 Now that we are travelling long-haul and crossing time zones again, it helps to keep your body clock in check. This 100% natural remedy claims to work on your jet lag and ease anxiety. Made from the essences of five flowers, it is said to also help with ailments from sea, road or rail travel. jet-candy.com
NIKON
Monarch M7+ 8x30, £499 Going on safari? These new binoculars from Nikon are aimed at bird watchers and wildlife lovers, working well at either dawn or dusk. With an extraordinarily wide 60.3° apparent field of view, they have outstanding clarity and are lightweight, robust and waterproof (up to 1m). nikon.com
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POCKETALK
Pocketalk Plus, £299 We were already fans of the Pocketalk, a portable, AI-powered instant voice-translator that can translate 82 languages at the touch of a button. Its new Plus device has a 40% larger display and a longer battery life (192 hours). It also comes with a complimentary two-year mobile data plan that can be used in 130 countries and regions. uk.pocketalk.com
TENTBOX
Cargo roof tent, £2,495 A Tentbox allows you to convert any car into a campervan by adding a sleeping pod onto the roof, and now the company’s flagship model has just had an upgrade that includes space-savvy storage for your bedding. Taking just 45 seconds to set up, the TentBox Cargo includes ladder, mattress and fixing kit. tentbox.com
PEAK DESIGN
30L Travel Backpack, £199 Small but mighty, this expandable bag meets international carry-on requirements and is suitable as a day pack or weekender. Made with travel in mind, it has a waterproof shell, stowable shoulder straps, handy organiser pockets, a laptop sleeve and works with Peak Design’s packing and camera cubes and pouches. peakdesign.com
6 ways to set you up for spring Flowers are blooming, wildlife is stirring and it’s time to get back on the road again, so check out our gear tips for how to make your spring escape even easier 46 April/May 2022
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The Wanderlust Club has a great range of exclusive offers, competitions and events for our members – here are just a few. Already a member? Head to wanderlustmagazine. com/your-wanderlust to find out more. Missing out? To join the Club, turn to page 136
WIN! A Pocketalk S
Keen photographers will have no excuse to ever miss a shot again with this easy-to-access new camera bag by Chrome. It’s big enough to fit a full DSLR with a 70-200mm lens, and it has multiple pockets for your cables and cards. We have two of these extremely handy bags to give away to lucky winners.
Pocketalk is a portable, AI-powered instant two-way voice translation device that has the ability to translate 82 languages in over 130 countries and regions. It also translates text and signs, and can convert currency, length, width and temperature. We have two of the Pocketalk S devices to give away.
VIRTUAL EVENT: Alice Morrison – Walking with Nomads (date tbc)
FREE GIFT: Claim your free gift! Or choose to donate
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WIN! A Niko Camera Sling 3.0
15% OFF! All purchases on the Stanfords website Stanfords is the UK’s leading specialist retailer of maps, travel books and accessories. Established in 1853, it has become an essential first port of call for adventurers and armchair travellers alike, including such luminaries as Captain Scott, Ernest Shackleton, Florence Nightingale, Ranulph Fiennes and Michael Palin.
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We go live to the Atlas Mountains, Morocco, where adventurer and broadcaster Alice Morrison will talk about her new book, Walking with Nomads, a story of trekking the Sahara with camels, discovering lost cities and dinosaur footprints, and the joy of the wilderness.
Calling all Wanderlust Club members! Every year, you get to claim one free gift. It’s a little surprise from us to you. This year, however, you can not only choose from five gift options, but you can also make your gift a gift, meaning we’ll instead make a donation on your behalf to a critical cause or special project. See page 136 for further information
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WANDERSLEEPS
Sri Lanka Dream Stays
From hill-country escapes and colonial mansions to sustainable eco-stays nestled within their own reserve – find your perfect Sri Lankan hideaway… Reviewed by Emma Boyle & George Kipouros
48 April/May 2022
JOURNAL Sri Lanka
AMANGALLA
One of Sri Lanka’s oldest surviving hotels occupies an imposing 17th-century Dutch colonial building in storied Galle. For centuries, before Aman Resorts reimagined the site, it was known as the New Oriental Hotel, an institution woven into the rich tapestry of Asia’s best-preserved fortified city.With its double-height ceilings, original polished-teak floors, period furniture and 19th- and early-20th-century memorabilia dating from the building’s former lives, stays invite guests to experience a bygone era. It’s an atmospheric insight into the many chapters of UNESCO-listed Galle, and it’s not short of perks. All the rooms here enjoy king-size four-poster antique beds, freestanding baths and come with the exceptional, highly-personalised service Aman is known for.There’s no better place to experience Galle’s many layers of history than at Amangalla. Rooms from £340 per night (room only); amangalla.com
The Zaal (Great Hall) Amangalla’s imposing entrance hall, with its high ceilings, overhead fans and chandeliers, is known for its silver-stand afternoon tea
Aman Resorts; Karpaha Sands
KARPAHA SANDS
The 15km-long Kalkudah Beach, on Sri Lanka’s east coast, is blissfully raw and undeveloped. Swathes of coconut palms sway gently overhead and dominate the white-sand coastline as far as the eye can see. Aside from net-wielding fisher families and fellow hotel guests, there’s barely another soul to be seen at this high-end glamping resort, which has been designed to be as low-impact as possible and blend discreetly into the serene setting. The 17 pared-back canvas suites have grand four-poster beds and outdoor showers, while vivid wall-art captures colourful scenes from Sri Lanka.The resort’s enduring appeal is its privacy and seclusion, not to mention the beachfront setting, 30-metre infinity pool and indulgent Ayurveda spa.When night falls, opt for a private beach BBQ followed by stargazing under a pitch-black sky. The perfect finale. Doubles from ⊲ £155 per night, including breakfast; karpahasands.com
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A journey to the end of the world
Chilean Tierra del Fuego is a wild, remote and storied land, home to the southernmost city and trek on the planet Words Shafik Meghji
SRI LANKA
Beyond The Sea
With over 2,500 years of recorded history, those in search of archaeological and cultural treasures in Sri Lanka soon learn the Pearl of the Indian Ocean more than lives up to its name Words & Photographs George Kipouros
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“G
“It’s a little louder than usual with the use of speakers, but et ready to experience Sri it really does help with meditation,” Viraj affirmed, acknowlLanka’s version of a full edging my surprise at the scene. moon party,” warned Viraj, “It wouldn’t be a party without loudspeakers, after my story-loving guide, as we all,” I smiled back at him. headed deep into the ancient While the scale of Anuradhapura’s ancient citadel is extraorcitadel of the island’s first capidinary, nothing prepares you for that first view of the colossal tal, Anuradhapura. Founded dagoba of Jetavanaramaya, taking over a gargantuan square in the 4th century BC, the city continued for 1,300 years as Sri platform of over 233,000 square metres. Erected in the 3rd century AD, it is still the largest brick-built monument in the Lanka’s foremost urban centre, and my gaze was pulled in world and a highly revered site by Buddhists everywhere. every direction as we drove the remains of one of the largest A dagoba, also known as a stupa, is a dome-shaped monastic citadels the world has ever seen on a busy holy day. shrine containing relics of the Buddha or a Buddhist saint. This was just the start for me. I was on a journey that would Anuradhapura boasts several fine take me to some of Sri Lanka’s finest examples, including the first built in Sri treasures, on a route navigating the “The Jetavanaramaya Lanka, the Thuparama dagoba. Cultural Triangle linking the ancient “After the Giza Pyramids in Egypt, capitals of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa was the third the Jetavanaramaya was the third tallest and Kandy, ending at the island’s tallest building in the building in the ancient world, originally historic commercial gateway, Galle. “You’re very lucky to be visiting reaching a height of 122m,” announced ancient world” Viraj, “yet our own pyramids, our Anuradhapura, one of the holiest places for Buddhists on the island, on dagobas, are nowhere near as famous!” a Duruthu full moon Poya,” said Viraj as we drove past dagobas Today, the monument stands at just 71m high and has perhaps and palaces. Every full moon in January, Buddhists commem- lost some of the pristine glory that its former glowing-white orate the first visit of the Buddha to Sri Lanka (around 528 stucco-painted exterior once afforded. Regardless, for the BC), and I’d arrived in time to see the festivities. pilgrims celebrating this full moon Poya, the Jetavanaramaya We headed first to Mahavihara, the oldest of the city’s remains an essential stop, and I left them circling the circummonasteries. It was thronged by thousands of worshippers ference of this great remnant of Anuradhapura’s heyday. drawn to the holy Sri Maha Bodhi tree, said to be grown from a cutting of the original tree under which the Buddha attained THE SECOND APOGEE enlightenment. Dressed in all-white, pilgrims carried colourful In the 11th century AD, Anuradhapura succumbed to invadexotic flowers as offerings while loudspeakers blasted pirith ers from Southern India, forcing the city’s royalty to flee to chanting, to help with their quest for spiritual contentment. Polonnaruwa, which later became the new royal capital. ⊲
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Rock of ages (clockwise from top left) Anuradhapura’s enormous Jetavanaramaya dagoba is said to have taken as many as 90 million bricks to build; the holy Sri Maha Bodhi tree is surrounded by Buddhist pilgrims; while the rock-topped fort of Sigiriya takes up much of the attention of visitors, spare time for the exquisite pleasure gardens and complex water system of pools, fountains and streams at its foot, which forms one of the best preserved water gardens in South Asia; (previous spread) the Jetavanaramaya dagoba takes the eye, but around it lies the ruins of a monastery that is thought to have housed some 3,000 monks at its peak
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Sri Lanka 220, 2
SRI LANKA
BACK ON TRACK NEW RAIL ROUTES FOR 2022
This year sees a bounty of new rail adventures emerge, along with the return of some old favourites. As travel restrictions drop off, it’s time to hit the tracks once more
DENVER–MOAB Board the Rocky Mountaineer as it hits the Southwest USA Since 1990, Rocky Mountaineer trains have wound between the lakes and summits of Alberta and British Columbia. They’ve become a Canadian icon, celebrated for the glass-domed observation cars that seem to beam in visions of another world. In August 2021 the company entered the US for the first time with the launch of its ‘Rockies to the Red Rocks’ route, between Denver and Moab; this year it will run its first full six-month schedule (April-October). It’s a wild two-day ride from the cold slab-granite and snowy tops of the Colorado mountains to the Mars-like landscapes of Utah, which are carved into arches and curves only a Surrealist painter could predict. Make a stop: Overnight stays at Denver, the mid-way resort town of Glenwood Springs and Salt Lake City (which can be added on) all appeal, but Moab is what truly raises the hairs on our necks, an ideal outdoorsy base from which to explore the buttes, mesas, whitewater and rock art of Canyonlands and Arches national parks. ⊲
THE FLORIDA KEYS OF MY IMAGINATION
The Florida Keys might be the road well taken, but its wild coral waters, mangrove-covered islands and fiery sunsets reveal a more natural side Words Lyn Hughes
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Calling all Wanderlust Club members! Every year, we offer you one free gift. It’s our little treat from us to you. This time, however, you can not only pick from five gift options, but also choose to make your gift a gift, meaning we’ll donate to a critical cause or special project on your behalf. Don’t forget: your membership includes a bundle of benefits, including access to our entire online archive. Head to wanderlust.co.uk/security/login/ to read every issue since 2010.
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77 ULTIMATE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES
Your guide to the greatest adventures on the planet, as chosen by Wanderlust readers. Inside you’ll find stunning images and insider tips on global destinations.
WHERE TO GO WHEN: THE AMERICAS
The ultimate trip planner, packed with over 130 of the most spectacular places in North, Central and South America, and arranged in a handy month-by-month guide.
+ THE LITTLE BOOK OF WANDERLUST
This bite-size guide is jam-packed with trivia, facts and quotes to help cure even the most serious cases of itchy feet.
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THE WANDERLUST WORLD TRAVEL QUIZ BOOK
Challenge yourself with thousands of trivia questions for the serious traveller. With quizzes on countries and cities, landmarks and landscapes, you can really test your credentials as a world explorer.
STEP BY STEP: THE LIFE IN MY JOURNEYS
In this revelatory account of his days as a travel writer, Simon Reeve gives the full story behind some of his favourite expeditions, and outlines his own inspiring personal journey to change his life, step by step.
Wanderlust stands with Ukraine, and condemns the atrocities the country is enduring. You can chose to make your gift into a gift by allowing us to donate £10 to the British Red Cross Ukraine Crisis Appeal on your behalf. This will help support the work of the Red Cross and its collective response under the Disasters Emergency Committee. For more information on how this donation is used, visit: donate. redcross.org.uk/appeal/ukraine-crisis-appeal
How to claim or donate (and don’t miss the deadline!) Visit shop.wanderlust.co.uk/free-gift.htm – you will then need to log in to choose your gift, which will be sent to the address that your membership is registered to. The deadline to
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Wanderlust supports the National Trust in their goal to plant 20 million trees by 2030. Make your gift a gift and we’ll plant a tree with the National Trust on your behalf, helping regrow the UK’s woodlands to combat climate change. Visit nationaltrust.org.uk/features/plant-a-tree to see how you will be making a difference.
redeem this offer is 24 May (before the next issue of Wanderlust is due), and at which time, your gift will be dispatched. If you elect for us to make a donation, these donations will be made within one week to ensure the funds reach the charities as quickly as possible.
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Sign-up online at shop.wanderlust.co.uk or call 01371 853641 For £45 £35 per year, you’ll get print, digital and members-only benefits, including one of these lovely gifts… if you join before 24 May!
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REDISCOVERING
RHODES
Boasting thousands of years of important Mediterranean history and culture, we explore the many-layered isle of Helios Words Juliet Rix
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Exploring the Mayan world
Mexico | Belize | Guatemala | Honduras | El Salvador ART PRODUCTION CLIENT
A Bavarian fairy tale American literary routes + Bahrain Pearling Trail Nigeria’s Osun-Osogbo festival
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Alamy
Best new safari trips & tips
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