1 COVER LD11.indd 1
The
Experts’ Guide to
SYDNEY & NEW SOUTH WALES
In association with
29/4/16 15:40:48
promotional feature
Australia’s most frequent visitor
S
Darwin Cairns
Perth
Canberra Adelaide
Brisbane Sydney Melbourne
ingapore Airlines is easily Australia’s most frequent foreign visitor, making the trip Down Under more than 120 times a week. Indeed, Singapore Airlines has been flying to Australia since 1967. Back then, flights stopped at Perth, en route to Sydney; now, both cities are served nonstop, four times a day. Adelaide, Brisbane, Melbourne, Cairns and Darwin have been added, too, with Canberra set to join the list from September 2016. Also, Singapore Airlines has long connected UK travellers to Australia: for 45 years from London, 30 years from Manchester. Australia is vital to the Singapore Airlines network, and Sydney has been integral to some of its key moments. It was the launch destination for the world’s first commercial A380 flight in 2007. And, in 2015, it was the first city to receive the carrier’s new Premium Economy cabin. So, what’s Singapore Airlines’ top Australia tip? Grab a seat on the right-hand side of the plane as you come in to land at Sydney – more Hold your phone here to view the latest often than not you’ll get the perfect deals on Singapore Airlines’ flights Xtra view of the iconic Harbour Bridge.
2
2 ADVERT LD11.indd 2
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
www.singaporeair.com
29/4/16 15:36:10
Left: From Blue Mountains to blue seas and orange Outback beyond, NSW is colourful and diverse
New South Wales is blessed with a subtropical climate, glorious national parks, sky-spearing mountains, rugged Outback and over 1,000km of Pacific coastline – not to mention one of the planet’s most spectacular cities, Sydney. From wine-tasting to wildlife, hiking to history, sightseeing to surfing, this is the Australian destination that truly has it all. New South Wales is the nation’s oldest state, and arguably its most diverse, offering the entire Australian experience. You can let your hair down at a Sydney festival, then climb the country’s highest peak. You can dive with seals, walk amid eucalypts, unwind in surf towns, delve into Aboriginal heritage, camp out in the desert and tuck into one of the southern hemisphere’s most vibrant food scenes. Sydney Harbour will likely be your first encounter with the state: you may see it dazzling below as your plane flies in. But you’ll soon discover that it’s just the first of many dazzling NSW sights. Want even MORE New South Wales? This guide can lead you to even more great NSW content. Download the Wanderlust Xtra app (available on iOS and Android). Then, wherever you see the icon (right), hold your phone 10cm above to be whisked deeper into NSW and find the latest Singapore Airlines deals. You can also find more at wanderlust.co.uk/DiscoverNSW
3 WELCOME LD12.indd 3
welcome your guide to nsw
Ultimate Australia...
Xtra
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 3
3/5/16 19:24:34
0
400 Km
Tamworth
Mutawintji NP
Dubbo
Broken Hill
Hunter Valley 1
Orange 4
Mungo NP
Blue Mountains
Mallee Cliffs NP
Wagga Wagg Wagga Western Australia
Northern Territory South Australia
ACT
P New
Sydney Royal NP
Wollongong B Jervis Bay
Queensland
Snowy Mountains
New South Wales Victoria
3
Tasmania
Eden
A few NSW highlights... 1
2
Hunter Valley vineyards Sip, slurp, savour, p12 4
Dorrigo N
Around Byron Bay Surf and explore, p18
3
Mount Kosciuszko Hike the highest peak, p38
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
4-5 CONTENTS-MAP LD17.indd 4
3/5/16 09:09:34
rth
2
Dorrigo NP
Byron Bay
Coffs Harbour Port Macquarie
Lord Howe Island Port Stephens Newcastle Sydney
One state, seven super routes – plan your New South Wales adventures here
06
Sydney & surrounds Combine the jaw-dropping city and its surrounding wilderness
Winelands Indulge your palate in the Hunter Valley and beyond
12 18
Royal NP
Wollongong Batemans Bay ervis Bay
n
NSW Trip Planner
S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N 4
26
Legendary Pacific Coast Drive from Sydney to Byron Bay – one of the world’s best road trips
Lord Howe Island Fly to New South Wales’ unique offshore escape
Oyster Trail Trace the wild Pacific coast south from Sydney to Eden
30
38
Southern Highlands & Snowy Mountains Have fun amid Australia’s highest peaks
42
Outback Delve into the state’s rugged red heart
46 47
What’s on Top events to enjoy
Mungo National Park Visit the oldest humans, p42
4-5 CONTENTS-MAP LD17.indd 5
NSW: the facts Essential information for planning your trip Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 5
3/5/16 09:09:35
Xtra
ROUTE 1 sydney & surrounds
Captain Cook landed at what's now Sydney in 1770. Hold your phone here to unearth more of NSW’s historic hot spots
6
6-11 ITIN 1 LD14.indd 6
Wanderlust Experts Guide to New South Wales
29/4/16 16:02:58
Q U E E N S L A N 0
400 Km
l Best for: City sights, coastal walks, outdoor adventures l Route: Sydney Royal National Park Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park Blue Mountains lD Duration: 8-10 days l Why do it: To combine an exploration of Australia’s most scenic city with visits to the wildernesses on its doorstep Dorrigo NP
Mutawintji NP
Broken Hill
ROUTE 1 sydney & surrounds
Sydney & surrounds
Byron Bay
Coffs Harbour
Dubbo Newcastle Ku-ring-gai Chase NP
Mungo NP Mallee Cliffs NP
Sydney
Blue Mountains
Royal NP
Wollongong
V I C T O R I A
6-11 ITIN 1 LD14.indd 7
Eden
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 7
S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N
29/4/16 16:02:59
ROUTE 1 sydney & surrounds
O
nly a small handful of world cities have that magical blend of looks, character and lifestyle that elevates them to the status of genuine greatness. Sydney is one of them. As the cultural and social hub of New South Wales, it’s often thought of as the capital of Australia itself, understandable given its great and glamorous reputation. Sunny, multicultural and fond of a party, this is a good-time town with one eye on the surf and the other on the weekend. Its landmark attractions are familiar even to those who’ve never visited. The Sydney Harbour Bridge, nicknamed ‘The Coathanger’, has stretched across to the North Shore since the 1930s; it remains the most striking emblem of the city, and has proved the ideal staging post for some of Sydney’s biggest firework displays. The Sydney Harbour Bridge is a great place to start your explorations, not least because if you’re bold enough to
Did you Sydney Opera House’s organ is the world’s largest know? known mechanical action organ – it has 10,154 pipes make the climb to its apex – a now quintessential Sydney experience – the full scope of the city is laid out below, bays, beaches and all. Back at ground level, wander the history-rich area known as The Rocks, a web of old streets on the site of Australia’s first European settlement, before strolling Circular Quay to visit that other postcard sight: Sydney Opera House. Make the most of the backdrop by enjoying a seafood meal on the harbourside, or push the boat out (literally) on a lunch cruise. Elsewhere in the centre, get inspired at the Art Gallery of New South Wales and soak up the greenery of the Royal Botanic Garden (celebrating its 200th birthday in 2016) before checking out one of the city’s chief assets: its coastline. The 6km clifftop walk between the wave-crashed suburbs of Bondi and Coogee is a glorious way of getting a feel for Sydney’s beach culture. The suburbs all have their own personalities, from café-dotted Balmain and alternative Glebe to hip Darlinghurst and foodie hub Surry Hills. 8
6-11 ITIN 1 LD14.indd 8
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
29/4/16 16:02:59
6-11 ITIN 1 LD14.indd 9
ROUTE 1 sydney & surrounds
Top tip The Art Gallery of NSW is free; visit on Wednesday nights (open to 10pm) for free events, too
Xtra
Hold your phone here to discover more Sydney secrets Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 9
29/4/16 16:03:00
ROUTE 1 sydney & surrounds
Top tip In each, you’ll find bars, breweries and high-quality Take a night tour restaurants. Set apart from the rest of the city by of the Jenolan Caves an enjoyable half-hour ferry ride, the much-loved to explore caverns coastal suburb of Manly not only has superb cafés not visited on the main day tour and eateries of its own but is also home to another spectacular hike: the 10km Manly Scenic Walkway. This traverses areas of the Sydney Harbour National Park, which is home to native bushland, hidden-away beaches and ancient Indigenous rock art. Back in the city centre, take the chance to experience one of Sydney’s freshest attractions by joining an Aboriginal tour of Barangaroo Reserve, the city’s newest harbour foreshore park and a place of huge significance to the world’s oldest living culture.
Did you The Gundungurra say a battle between two Dreamtime know? beings ruptured the land, creating the Blue Mountains One of the city’s key assets is the number of national parks within easy reach. Head south to Royal National Park (gazetted in 1879), a rolling reserve ideal for barbecues and home to the mind-bending Wedding Cake Rock. Then travel north to expansive Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park for mountain-biking trails, indigenous sites and coastal lookouts. Both parks offer natural spectacle right on Sydney’s doorsteps. However, topping the list of New South Wales’ most extraordinary sights are the soaring Blue Mountains. Just 80km west of Sydney, the area taking its name from the eucalyptus-cloaked slopes, the World Heritagelisted mountains form a vision of plummeting hills, deep gorges and ancient caverns including the 340-million-year-old Jenolan Caves. They’re ideal for adventure-seekers, with climbing, hiking, kayaking, biking and 4WD tours all on offer. If you’d rather just take in the view, opt for Scenic World’s quartet of attractions: a Railway, elevated Walkway, Skyway and Cableway, all providing epic mountain panoramas. l 10
6-11 ITIN 1 LD14.indd 10
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
29/4/16 16:03:00
Xtra
Aboriginal New South Walesi No state has a larger Indigenous population than New South Wales. Prior to the arrival of Captain Cook in April 1770, a complex network of different tribal groups had existed here for thousands of years, hunting, fishing and living off the land. It’s estimated that Sydney Cove alone was home to 3,000 people at the time of the first European landing. Today the state is rich in Aboriginal ancient sites, and art galleries, cultural centres and preserved historic places all help travellers gain a deeper understanding. Seek out a variety of attractions: for example, Booderee Botanic Gardens in Jervis Bay showcases Aboriginal use of plants; the Waradah Aboriginal Centre in Katoomba features Indigenous artwork and performances; and Bundyi Cultural Tours, based close to Wagga Wagga, offers walks with a Wiradjuri guide. l
6-11 ITIN 1 LD14.indd 11
ROUTE 1 sydney & surrounds
The Blue Mountains are rich in ancient sites – hold your phone here to delve into NSW’s most amazing Aboriginal experiences
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 11
29/4/16 16:03:00
Xtra
ROUTE 2 winelands
It’s easy to drive between the hills and towns of the Hunter Valley – hold your phone here for more scenic NSW day drives
12
Wanderlust Experts Guide to New South Wales
12-16 ITIN 2 LD15.indd 12
29/4/16 16:04:42
Winelands
ROUTE 2 winelands
l Best for: Fine food, top tipples, vineyard views l Route: Cessnock Hunter Valley Orange l Duration: 6 days l Why do it: To sample the state’s first-rate food and wine in idyllic surroundings
Q U E E N S L A N D 0
Byron Bay
400 Km
Mutawintji NP
Orange Mungo NP Mallee Cliffs NP
Hunter Valley
Cessnock
Newcastle Blue Mountains
Sydney
V I C T O R I A
12-16 ITIN 2 LD15.indd 13
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 13
Eden S O U T H P A C I F I C
29/4/16 16:04:43
ROUTE 2 winelands
T
he many winemakers and food producers of New South Wales make the most of the fact that nature has been kind to the state. Frankly, they’d be fools not to. The sunny climate, fertile hills and ocean waters have helped it to become a bona fide gourmet paradise – one with no fewer than 14 different wine regions to tantalise visitors’ tastebuds. The most famous of these is also one of Australia’s oldest: the Hunter Valley. It was back in 1828 that George Wyndham first planted grapes here – and, almost two centuries on, Wyndham Estate remains one of the top names in Australian wine. The Hunter Valley is now a cradle for more than 140 different vineyards, wineries and cellar doors, making it a worldclass region for wine-based travel. The Hunter Valley is 150km north of Sydney, a two-hour drive and easily accessible by car, train or tour. Most highlights lie in the Lower Hunter Valley, spread beneath the long, green spine of the Brokenback Mountains. The town of Cessnock, once a prosperous mining centre before grapes took over from coal in the 19th century, is the largest in the region, and has an absorbing art gallery. However, the area of Pokolbin, a little farther north, forms the main wine-tasting heartland.
14
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
12-16 ITIN 2 LD15.indd 14
29/4/16 16:04:45
Xtra
Call in at the multi-award-winning Hunter Valley Gardens – at 60 acres, it’s Australia’s largest display garden – then amble between any vineyards that take your fancy. You could join the 11am tour (Mondays to Fridays) at the long-standing Drayton’s Family Wines, or visit the outstanding Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard, named after the 15-yearold (yes, really) who took over the winery from his parents more than a century ago. Other excellent Pokolbin cellar doors include the
ROUTE 2 winelands
Blaxlands Inn (left) is just one of the state's foodie greats – hold your phone here for more
Did you The Hunter Valley Wine & Food Festival, held in May and know? June, is two months of talks, tours and eating events Scarborough Wine Company and the boutique Hungerford Hill estate. In the nearby Broke area, Krinklewood combines organic wines with a magnificent garden setting. If you don’t want to drive between tastings, there are plenty of innovative ways to explore. Bike, Segway, guided limo and horse-and-carriage options are all possible. Or float above all those neat lines of vines in a hot-air balloon. It’s not all about the vino, of course. The local food is hugely impressive too, as evidenced by stop-offs such as the Hunter Valley Chocolate
12-16 ITIN 2 LD15.indd 15
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 15
29/4/16 16:04:46
ROUTE 2 winelands
Top tip Foodies will love the South Coast town of Berry, where artisan produce includes olives, pickles, chocolate and coffee. Follow one of the tasting trails
Company and the aptly named Smelly Cheese Shop. Many estates also produce superb olive oils. Restaurants such as the Blaxlands Inn and avant-garde EXP, meanwhile, are attractions in their own right. From the Hunter Valley you can continue your gastronomic explorations by driving west to the country town of Orange. Home to dozens of vineyards and an abundance of fruit farms, it’s a prime spot for eating and drinking. As well as visiting wineries – stand-out producers include Printhie and the small hillside estate of Patina Wines – you can
Did you The Wonnarua (‘people of the hills and plains’) were know? the Hunter Valley’s first inhabitants 30,000 years ago also call in at the Badlands Brewery for a handcrafted beer or stop at a farm to pick your own figs, berries and apples. Try to time your trip to coincide with FOOD Week (Food Of Orange District), a festival held each April at harvest time. And no matter what time of year you’re here, it’s well worth tackling a walk up Mount Canobolas, the 1,395m-high extinct volcano that looms above the region. The lake at its base is also ideal for canoeing. l 16
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
12-16 ITIN 2 LD15.indd 16
29/4/16 16:04:47
Promotional feature
Fly Singapore Airlines’ new Premium Economy
I
nitially launched on the Sydney route, Singapore Airlines’ new Premium Economy class provides heightened comfort and style. Thoughtful touches in this dedicated cabin include Premium Economy is available daily on full leather finishing, extra flights from London and Manchester legroom, additional recline and a calf-rest for every seat. Perks such as extra baggage allowance and priority check-in will make you feel extra special. You can enjoy champagne throughout the flight, and can pre-order delicious meals such as beef fillet steak and dim sum from the ‘Book the Cook’ menu. Additionally, enjoy wines selected by the airline’s wine consultants (which include Oz Clarke) and sip a range of cocktails – perhaps a Singapore Sling? With the largest personal inflight entertainment screen in its class, and the new companion app allowing you to plan your inflight viewing before you board the Hold your phone here to view the latest plane, you’ll be as excited by the deals on Singapore Airlines’ flights Xtra journey as the end destination.
www.siapremiumeconomy.com
17 ADVERT LD12.indd 17
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 17
29/4/16 16:07:44
Xtra
ROUTE 3 Legendary Pacific Coast
It’s an epic road trip from Sydney to Cape Byron Lighthouse. Hold your phone here for the state’s best day drives
18
Wanderlust Experts Guide to New South Wales
18-25 ITIN 3 LD18.indd 18
29/4/16 16:12:20
l Best for: Road-tripping, beach life, Aboriginal culture, multi-activity fun l Route: Sydney Newcastle Port Stephens Myall Lakes Port Macquarie Taylors Arm Nambucca Heads Dorrigo National Park Coffs Harbour Byron Bay l Duration: Two weeks l Why do it: To discover why this diverse stretch of coast deserves its ‘legendary’ tag
Q U E E N S L A N D 0
Wollumbin NP
Bangalow
400 Km
Dorrigo NP Mutawintji NP
Taylors Arm
ROUTE 3 Legendary Pacific Coast
Legendary Pacific Coast
Byron Bay
Coffs Harbour Nambucca Heads Port Macquarie
Myall Lakes NP
Port Stephens Newcastle Sydney
Mallee Cliffs NP
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 19
V I C T O R I A
18-25 ITIN 3 LD18.indd 19
Snowy Mountains
S O U T H
Eden
P A C I F I C O C E A N
29/4/16 16:12:21
ROUTE 3 Legendary Pacific Coast
I
t takes around nine hours to drive the 770km from Sydney to Byron Bay, but it would be criminal to rush such a journey. The Legendary Pacific Coast – as this activity-packed, scenery-rich stretch of Australia’s eastern seaboard is known – has everything from wine, wildlife and water sports to sacred indigenous sites and forest-wreathed national parks. In short, it makes for a world-class road trip. Heading north from Sydney, the first major stop is Newcastle, the state’s second-largest city, which has not only a rich maritime history but also a lively surf culture and an array of hip new cafés. Be sure to experience the new Memorial Walk, a clifftop walkway built to commemorate the centenary of the 1915 Gallipoli campaign. Next, travel on to the bay region of Port Stephens. As well as being the best place in New South Wales to swim with wild dolphins – both the oceanic
Did you Newcastle’s historic Ocean Baths and Art Deco know? pavilion opened in 1922; locals swim year round! bottlenose and short-beaked common species are found in these waters – Port Stephens is renowned for its whale-watching (best between July and October). Close by, Stockton Sand Dunes serves up pulse-raising experiences of its own: you can take all-terrain quadbike and guided hummer tours across the largest moving sand dunes in the southern hemisphere. Aboriginal cultural tours of the dune region can also be booked. Heading further up the coast, stop off at the gorgeous blue pools of Myall Lakes National Park before continuing on through the twin-town beach settlement of Forster-Tuncurry to reach Port Macquarie. This laid-back coastal resort is fringed by wide, green countryside, and well suited to activities ranging from horse-riding and rainforest walks to fishing charters and paragliding. Upping the cuteness quotient, it’s also home to the world’s only koala hospital – open for tours every day at 3pm. Moving north along the Pacific Highway, you’ll pass a series of great beaches and shoreline campsites – the beauty of the road trip is you can 20
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
18-25 ITIN 3 LD18.indd 20
29/4/16 16:12:24
Top tip Fly Point marine reserve, east of Nelsons Bay, is a great place to snorkel or dive
This: The ‘legendary’ Pacific coast; Below: Stockton Sand Dunes, near Port Stephens
18-25 ITIN 3 LD18.indd 21
ROUTE 3 Legendary Pacific Coast
Xtra
Hold your phone here to discover the NSW national parks you’ve (probably) never heard of
29/4/16 16:12:28
ROUTE 3 Legendary Pacific Coast
This: Port Stephens Right: Pass Beach, Byron Bay
stop where you please. Before long you’ll spot signs for the village of Taylors Arm, worth the short diversion inland to call in at the fabled Pub With No Beer (a misnomer, you’ll be relieved to hear). Next comes Nambucca Heads, a relaxed coastal town popular with surfers and swimmers, then the pretty Bellinger region south of Coffs Harbour. From here, follow the Waterfall Way scenic drive an hour inland to reach the UNESCO-listed rainforest of Dorrigo National Park – it’s brilliant for birdwatching, with satin bowerbirds among the most prized sightings. At Coffs Harbour itself, make the most of the town’s special setting between the Great Dividing Range and the ocean by trying activities as diverse as skydiving, creek walks, cycling and scuba diving – the latter a real treat if you join a trip offshore to the Solitary Islands Marine Park. Driving out of Coffs, you’ll pass the Big Banana – a nod to the region’s banana-growing prowess, and one of Australia’s famous roadside ‘big things’. A string of serene holiday villages lines the way to Byron Bay, 22
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
18-25 ITIN 3 LD18.indd 22
29/4/16 16:12:30
Water wondersi New South Wales has a magnificent coastline – and a surplus of ways to enjoy it. The surfing is world class. Beginners can learn the basics at spots such as Bondi Beach and Diggers Beach (near Coffs Harbour); experts should head for the big breaks at Crescent Head, Merewether Beach and Lennox Head. Diving hotspots include Lord Howe Island (see p26), Port Stephens and Montague Island Nature Reserve, where there is the chance to dive with seals. Elsewhere, New South Wales has many superb kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding locations – from urban exploits in Sydney to wilderness jaunts in Ben Boyd National Park. It’s also possible to charter catamarans and other sailing vessels from ports such as Hardys Bay, Killcare and Jervis Bay. Away from the coast, the Dorrigo Plateau has some of the best trout-fishing in Australia.
18-25 ITIN 3 LD18.indd 23
ROUTE 3 Legendary Pacific Coast
Xtra
Hold your phone here to see the drama of NSW unfurl on film
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 23
29/4/16 16:12:32
ROUTE 3 Legendary Pacific Coast
though serious surfers (or surf spectators) should pause en route at Lennox Head – the point break here is consistently voted one of Australia’s best. When you arrive in Byron Bay, you’ll see just why this colourful beach township has developed such a name for itself over the decades. These days its relaxed, hippy vibe is offset by many stylish cafés, bars, restaurants and hotels, perfect for a few days of slow-paced exploration. Walk out to the Cape Byron Lighthouse to watch sunrise, have a massage at one of the town’s countless alternative therapy centres, go kayaking with dolphins and turtles or sample the creative nightlife. A little way out of Byron, take the time to browse the antique shops and markets of Bangalow (the main market is on the fourth Sunday of each month). Also, delve into some of the national parks that sit close to town. UNESCO-listed Wollumbin is the pick of the bunch – the park protects the ancient caldera of Wollumbin-Mount Warning, and is a sacred place to the Bundjalung people. l 24
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
18-25 ITIN 3 LD18.indd 24
29/4/16 16:12:35
Top tip Go to Bundjalung National Park to bike the Serendipity Fire Trail or canoe Jerusalem Creek
Xtra
ROUTE 3 Legendary Pacific Coast
Hold your phone here for a handy field guide to NSW’s most iconic species – and where to see them This: Port Stephens pelican; Left: Zenith Beach, Port Stephens; Below: Dorrigo National Park
18-25 ITIN 3 LD18.indd 25
Wanderlust Experts Guide to New South Wales 25
29/4/16 16:12:38
Xtra
Hold your phone here to uncover more of NSW’s little-known wild places Wanderlust Experts Guide to New South Wales
ROUTE 4 LORD HOWE ISLAND
26
26-29 ITIN 4 LD15.indd 26
Top tip Learn more about the island’s history at the fascinating Lord Howe Island Museum
29/4/16 16:18:26
l Best for: Island life, diving and snorkelling, escaping l Route: Sydney Lord Howe Island l Duration: 2-5 days l Why do it: To get away from it all on a UNESCO-listed and utterly unique outpost
Q U E E N S L A N D Byron Bay
400 Km
Coffs Harbour
Mutawintji NP
Port Macquarie
oken Hill
Mungo NP Mallee Cliffs NP
V I C T O R I A
26-29 ITIN 4 LD15.indd 27
ROUTE 4 LORD HOWE ISLAND
Lord Howe Island
Lord Howe Island Newcastle Sydney
600 Km
S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 27
29/4/16 16:18:27
ROUTE 4 LORD HOWE ISLAND
T
he 18th-century British admiral after whom Lord Howe Island was named could have had little idea of just how desirable this crescent of land was to become. Lying 600km north-east of Sydney (less than two hours’ flight time), the verdant, UNESCO World Heritage-listed isle has become a much-aspired-to destination – an appeal heightened by the fact that its population is just 360 people. All in all, Lord Howe is pervaded by a wonderful sense of peace. Measuring just 11km long by 2.8km-wide, the island isn’t big but packs in plenty. For starters, it offers arguably the best birdwatching in Australia, with more than 130 permanent and migratory species, including thousands of tropicbirds, petrels and sooty terns. Guides can take you to the top locations. Also, almost two-thirds of the island is a dedicated park reserve, making walking another big draw; the hills and shorelines are laced with
Did you No more than 400 visitors are allowed to stay know? on Lord Howe Island at any one time trails ranging in duration from 20 minutes to eight hours. The landscape is surprisingly varied, with palm and banyan forests alongside golden beaches. If you have time for only one walk, trek to the summit of 875m Mount Gower – rightly considered one of the world’s finest day-hikes. The island is also ideal for activities ranging from diving, snorkelling and surfing to kiteboarding, windsurfing and stand-up paddleboarding. Glassbottom boat tours are offered too, turtles being the main attraction. Some visitors come here purely to fish, with huge kingfish and yellowfin tuna frequently caught offshore – half- and full-day fishing tours are available. Back on land, the aforementioned fish feature heavily on the island’s menus. Take your pick from close to a dozen grills and restaurants – go informal with a beach barbecue, try the inventive food and wine at Pinetrees Lodge or dine out on the fusion cuisine at Pandanus Lodge. If you’re really keen on the good life, round off your trip with an Ayurvedic treatment at Arajilla day spa. l 28
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
26-29 ITIN 4 LD15.indd 28
29/4/16 16:18:27
ROUTE 4 LORD HOWE ISLAND Xtra
Hold your phone here to watch the one-minute movie guide to NSW
26-29 ITIN 4 LD15.indd 29
Wanderlust Experts Guide to New South Wales 29
29/4/16 16:18:27
Xtra
ROUTE 5 OYSTER TRAIL
Fancy a coastal stroll in Wollongong? Hold your phone here for NSW’s best walks
30
Wanderlust Experts Guide to New South Wales
30-36 ITIN 5 LD16.indd 30
29/4/16 16:28:50
Oyster Trail
0
400 Km
Mutawintji NP
Byron Bay
ROUTE 5 OYSTER TRAIL
Q U E E N S L A
l Best for: Laid-back beach towns, world-class oysters, whale-watching l Route: Sydney Wollongong Berry Jervis Bay Batemans NBayDMontague Island Central Tilba Merimbula Eden l Duration: Ten days l Why do it: To soak up the relaxed charm, widescreen Dorrigo NP landscapes and classic Aussie experiences of the state’s south
Coffs Harbour Port Macquarie
Lord Howe Island Mungo NP Mallee Cliffs NP
V I C T O R I A
30-36 ITIN 5 LD16.indd 31
Sydney Wollongong Berry Jervis Bay Batemans Bay Central Tilba Merimbula Eden
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 31
29/4/16 16:28:51
ROUTE 5 OYSTER TRAIL
T
he southern coastal region, stretching from Sydney down towards the New South Wales-Victoria border, is prime roadtrip territory. Strung with peaceful fishing ports, wild national parks, amiable heritage towns and spectacular ocean scenery, it’s a hugely enjoyable chunk of the state to explore – particularly if you want to eat well, too. The oysters that give the coast its moniker are exceptional, and you’ll find quality fresh produce across the region, as well as some first-rate wineries. In short, if you’re after stress-free travel at a slow pace, but with plenty of scope for wildlife and adventure, you’ve come to the right place. Heading south from Sydney, stop first at Wollongong, the thirdlargest city in the state but a far more tranquil place than this fact would suggest. Soak up its surf-friendly lifestyle, perhaps hiring a bike
Did you A male eastern grey kangaroo can weigh up to 66kg know? and measure 2.8m from his nose to the tip of his tail to potter along some of its many coastal cycleways. Then move on to the leafy little village of Berry, known for its produce markets and period buildings as well as being nicely positioned for sampling oysters from nearby Shoalhaven. Following the Princes Highway as it winds south, you’ll soon come to Jervis Bay, a wide stretch of coastline studded with white beaches, bushwalking trails and kayaking coves. The unrushed town of Huskisson is a good base for exploring the marine park offshore. Continuing down the coast, Batemans Bay is a popular holiday spot with locals (always a good sign). It’s especially notable for being the gateway to Murramarang National Park, one of the best places in the state for kangaroo-watching – head to Pretty Beach, where eastern greys are often found in large numbers. Some 80km to the south, the town of Narooma takes its name from an Aboriginal term meaning ‘clear blue waters’, and with good reason. 32
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
30-36 ITIN 5 LD16.indd 32
29/4/16 16:28:51
30-36 ITIN 5 LD16.indd 33
ROUTE 5 OYSTER TRAIL
Top tip At Tilba’s ABC Cheese Factory, try speciality cheeses and milkshakes direct from its Jersey cows
Xtra
Like the look of Tilba’s heritage architecture? Hold your phone here for more NSW historic hotspots Wanderlust Experts Guide to New South Wales 33
29/4/16 16:28:52
Top tip Look for kangaroos at dawn and dusk, when they come out to feed in open grassy areas
ROUTE 5 OYSTER TRAIL
This: Montague Island
It’s surrounded by coastal lakes and attractive beaches, making it well suited to everything from fishing to boating charters. It’s also the jumping-off point for Montague Island, 10km offshore, which is known for its multitude of flippered residents – you can snorkel with fur seals or join a nature walk to see the island’s colony of little penguins. If you’re lucky, you’ll also spy pods of dolphins. Back on the mainland, stop off at Central Tilba, a village with a majestic mountain backdrop, heritage buildings and a highly rated winery; there’s also a lively market every Saturday morning. Next comes the town of Merimbula, which is ringed by woodland and beautiful beaches. It’s another focal point for NSW oysters; join the wonderfully named Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tours to cruise the Pambula River Estuary and get the chance to shuck and sample high-quality rock 34
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
30-36 ITIN 5 LD16.indd 34
29/4/16 16:28:54
Xtra
ROUTE 5 OYSTER TRAIL
Kangaroos like Murramarang NP – hold your phone here to discover more great NSW national parks
All creatures great and smalli Love to see native wildlife in its natural habitat? New South Wales delivers in spades. Quintessential Aussie fauna is well represented, from kangaroos and koalas to emus and echidnas. Offshore there are dolphins, whales, turtles and seals. Bird species range from kookaburras and lyrebirds to barking owls and endemic rock warblers. Rewarding though it is to track down these birds and animals, it’s not obligatory – the state has a number of responsibly-run wildlife parks, where it’s often possible to feed the animals. Try Sydney’s hands-on Featherdale Wildlife Park and the Australian Reptile Park, near Gosford, where you can get close to koala joeys and venomous snakes.
30-36 ITIN 5 LD16.indd 35
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 35
29/4/16 16:28:55
Xtra
ROUTE 5 OYSTER TRAIL
Merimbula and Eden are great places for whale-watching. Hold your phone here to encounter more NSW species
oysters for yourself. Merimbula is renowned as a dive site – it’s a great place to fin amid the shipwrecks and sealife of the so-called Sapphire Coast. There’s a scuba school in the town. It’s not far from here to the delightful beach settlement of Eden, which offers colonial-era heritage and some top seafood restaurants. Between May and November there is a further reason to visit: some of Australia’s best whale-watching. The town sits on Twofold Bay, one of the deepest harbours in the southern hemisphere, and around 2,500 southern right and humpback whales pass by each year in season. If you time it wrong, no problem. Nearby Ben Boyd National Park is aweinspiring in its own right, with some excellent coastal hiking trails and opportunities for magical sea kayaking. l 36
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
30-36 ITIN 5 LD16.indd 36
29/4/16 16:28:55
Promotional feature
not-so plain food
D
Inflight fancies: From seafood soup to wild salmon and steamed sea bass, Singapore Airlines’ food is always delicious www.singaporeair.com
37 ADVERT LD13.indd 37
id you know: cabin air pressure changes the way you perceive taste? Well, Singapore Airlines’ dishes are tried, tested and created with this taken into consideration. Singapore Airlines has brought together a panel of world-renowned chefs to produce a delightful menu that is always evolving. From foodie journeys around the world to the familiar tastes of home, Singapore Airlines goes to great lengths to serve the flavours you love. Enjoy enhanced dining onboard with delectable cuisine to suit all tastes, ages and dietary requirements. Even the most health conscious are spoiled for choice with the new ‘Deliciously Wholesome’ range. Alternatively, if you're flying in Premium Economy, Business or Suites/First Class, try the ‘Book the Cook’ service to pre-order your meal before you fly. And why not accompany your meal with a Singapore Sling, or a glass of wine from our award-winning selection? Singapore Airlines will deliver you to your destination refreshed and well fed. You’ll have a gastronomic treat in the air, not just on the ground.
Xtra
Hold your phone here to view the latest deals on Singapore Airlines’ flights
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 37
29/4/16 16:31:18
Xtra
ROUTE 6 Highlands & Mountains
Like mountains? Hold your phone here to discover NSW’s best highland hikes
38-41 ITIN 6 LD14.indd 38
29/4/16 16:34:10
0
400 Km
Mutawintji NP
Broken Hill
38-41 ITIN 6 LD14.indd 39
l Best for: Top wines, oldworld villages, big mountains l Route: Sydney Bowral Dorrigo NP Berrima Morton National Park Thredbo l Duration: 8 days l Why do it: To combine two literal state highlights
Byr ROUTE 6 Highlands & Mountains
Q U E E N S
Southern Highlands & Snowy L Mountains A N D
Lord Howe Is
Sydney Berrima
Mt Kosciusko
Bowral Morton NP
Snowy Mountains
Thredbo Eden
S O
P A C Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 39
O C
29/4/16 16:34:12
ROUTE 6 Highlands & Mountains
A
n hour and a half’s drive from Sydney you’ll find yourself among the billowing hills of the Southern Highlands, a serene countryside region of historic villages and rolling wineries. Call in first at Bowral – the hometown of cricket legend Sir Donald Bradman – then wind your way down to the waterfalls and rainforest of Morton National Park via the pretty village of Berrima. There are more than 50 vineyards in the area – Diamond Creek Estate, close to Bowral, and Eling Forest Winery, south of Berrima, are two top picks. The district’s cooler-climate wines are well known, with the pinot gris and pinot noir especially good. You can eat in style too – the region is known for its truffle farms, fruit orchards and some tasty cheeses. When you’ve eaten your fill, head on to Morton National Park, where you’ll be greeted by the spectacle of 81m-high Fitzroy Falls, as well as
Did you Mt Kosciuszko was named in 1840 after a Polish know? freedom fighter; Aussies pronounce it ‘koz-ee-os-ko’ swathes of sweeping woodland laced with mountain-bike trails and hiking tracks. If you’d rather be above the tree canopy, make the detour west to Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures, home to the country’s highest zipline. Half a day’s drive south sit the Snowy Mountains, crowned by 2,228m Mount Kosciuszko – Australia’s highest. There are also ten other peaks topping out above 2,100m. The range is an adventure playground par excellence, with great skiing and snowboarding from August to October, and caves, lakes and hill treks to enjoy year-round. The mountain town of Thredbo is a great starting point, and consequently remains pretty lively year round. Hiking to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko is a big pull for many visitors. The good news is that it’s a manageable undertaking – with a return distance of 13km, most travellers of decent fitness can manage the climb. If you’re after something more testing, the Main Range Circuit is a 22km loop that takes in the summit plus some of the park’s most glorious scenery. It can be done in a full day. l 40
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
38-41 ITIN 6 LD14.indd 40
29/4/16 16:34:12
38-41 ITIN 6 LD14.indd 41
Xtra
Bowral sits amid a wealth of wineries – hold your phone here for more NSW epicurean experiences
ROUTE 6 Highlands & Mountains
Top tip In Bowral, visit the first-rate museum dedicated to cricket legend Sir Donald Bradman
Wanderlust Experts Guide to New South Wales 41
29/4/16 16:34:13
ROUTE 7 OUTBACK
Xtra
Hold your phone here to discover more must-see NSW sights 42
Wanderlust Experts Guide to New South Wales
42-45 ITIN 7 LD20.indd 42
3/5/16 09:30:08
l Best for: Desert adventure, endless horizons l Route: Broken Hill Silverton Mutawintji National Park Mungo National Park l Duration: One week l Why do it: To get a completely different flavour of New South Wales – ancient, dramatic and wildly remote
2,228m Mt. Kosciusko
42-45 ITIN 7 LD20.indd 43
A U S T R A L I A
S O U T H
Q U E E N S L A N D
ROUTE 7 OUTBACK
Outback
Mutawintji NP
Dubbo
Broken Hill
Mungo NP Mallee Cliffs NP
Sydney
Wagga Wagga
V I C T O R I A Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 43
3/5/16 09:30:09
ROUTE 7 OUTBACK
I
f you were in any doubt as to the variety on offer in New South Wales, consider the fact that the atmospheric desert town of Broken Hill is far enough removed from Sydney to be in a different time zone. However, this wonderfully wild region remains easily accessible from the city – by air (2.5hrs), rail (13hrs) and road trip (12hrs). The journey west to Outback NSW is an eye-opening one, laying bare the region’s 40,000 years of human history and serving up a series of otherworldly landscapes. It makes sense to start your explorations at Broken Hill. Here, mining still powers the local economy, and attractions range from the School of the Air – a virtual ‘classroom’ for school-age children scattered across 1.8 million sq km of Outback – to a number of creative art galleries. Don’t miss the Living Desert Reserve Sculpture Park, high above town – the views at sunset are spectacular. Make Silverton your next port of call. The far-flung township is surrounded by the sun-baked flatlands of the Mundi Mundi Plains (the area was featured in Mad Max 2), and has a vintage museum and a much-photographed pub. From here, head back through Broken Hill to the deep gorges and age-old rock art of Mutawintji National Park. You’ll need to join a guided tour to see the ancient art, but there’s also a highly informative cultural centre and a number of park walks that can be taken. Travelling south, make your way through the desert to the extraordinary Mungo National Park, which has a hefty claim to fame. It was here, among the park’s giant sand dunes and dried-up lakes, that archaeologists uncovered the oldest human remains ever recorded in Australia, Mungo Lady and Mungo Man (as the remains are known), dating back more than 40,000 years. The park, which forms a part of the UNESCO-listed Willandra Lakes Region, is also renowned for its vast main dune system of lunettes, known as the ‘Walls of China’. The impressive natural feature, along with other eyescorching panoramas and sightings of hardy desert wildlife, can be enjoyed on hiking and mountain-biking trails. This is New South Wales at its most dramatic and diverse. l 44
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
42-45 ITIN 7 LD20.indd 44
3/5/16 09:30:09
ROUTE 7 OUTBACK
Xtra
Mungo National Park is rich in Indigenous history – for more great Aboriginal experiences, hold your phone here
Between ocean and Outbacki Lying just behind the Pacific coast of New South Wales is the fertile inland area of the state known as Country NSW, the perfect choice for more off-the-beaten track exploring. There are many highlights here, including the volcanic landscapes of Warrumbungle National Park, the historic gold-mining centre of Forbes, the fascinating Indigenous art galleries of Wagga Wagga and atmospheric old country towns such as Dubbo and Bathurst. Wine-tasting, waterfalls, paddle-steamer trips and long-distance walks are also on offer. With more than seven million hectares of land, this region is rich in travel possibilities.
42-45 ITIN 7 LD20.indd 45
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 45
3/5/16 09:30:10
What’s on New South Wales has a busy calendar of events – here are 12 to look out for
1
New Year Cricket Test Match, Sydney (January)
Need to know events
The year’s biggest Test Match at the Sydney Cricket Ground – vs England in 2018
2
Tamworth Country Music Festival (January)
3
Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras (March)
4
Handa Opera on Sydney Harbour (March/April)
Australia’s largest music fest takes over Tamworth for two weeks
Flamboyant parade and party; expect outrageous costumes
A month of open-air, world-class opera held on the harbour
5 6
Vivid Sydney (May/June)
A show-stopping three-week festival of ‘light, music and ideas’
Hunter Valley Wine & Food Festival (May/June)
Two full months of festivities in celebration of delicious Hunter Valley produce
7
Blue Mountains Winter Magic Festival (June)
8
State of Origin Series (July)
9
Sculpture by the Sea (October/November)
A free community event to mark the winter solstice – artists, musicians and market stalls take over Katoomba
This huge sporting occasion – when the rugby league teams of NSW and Queensland do battle – is dubbed ‘Australia’s greatest sporting rivalry’
This annual exhibition sees the magnificent Bondi coastal path transformed into an alfresco sculpture park
10
Whale-watching combined with music, live shows, seafood and family fun fill the far-south seaside town
3 46
Eden Whale Festival (October)
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales
46-47 EVENTS_FACTFILE LD15.indd 46
29/4/16 16:40:05
11
Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race (December)
12
More than 100 yachts depart from Sydney Harbour on Boxing Day – a memorable sight
12
New Year’s Eve (December)
NsW footnotes ● State capital: Sydney
● State population: 7.5 million ● Time zone: GMT+10 & +9.5
● Visas: Required by UK nationals.
The eVisitor visa is free and can be applied for online from the Department of Immigration & Border Protection (border.gov.au). It’s valid for visits of up to three months. ● Money: Australian dollar (A$), currently around A$1.88 to the UK£ ● When to go: With a temperate climate, NSW is a year-round destination. Seasons in Australia are the reverse of those in the UK. Summer is December to February, when the average maximum temperature is around 26°C – perfect for hitting the beach. Winter
is June to August, though even then temperatures seldom drop below 7°C; the Snowy Mountains do get colder, but this is prime time for skiing. Spring (September to November) and autumn (March to May) are beautiful times to visit, with wildflowers, wine harvests, food festivals and warm weather that’s great for hiking, cycling and a wealth of other activities. ● Getting there: Flights from the UK are frequent, and take around 24 hours with a stop. Singapore Airlines (0844 800 2380, singaporeair.com) offers great fares in all classes, flying via world-beating Changi Airport. ● More info: sydney.com; facebook: /seesydney; Instagram: /sydney; Twitter: @sydney_sider; YouTube: @sydney_sider; wanderlust.co.uk/DiscoverNSW
Need to kNoW PRACtICAL INFo
Sydney celebrates with the world’s best fireworks display
Produced by Wanderlust Publications Ltd, 2016 (wanderlust.co.uk) in association with Destination NSW (sydney.com) and Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com). Words: Ben Lerwill
46-47 EVENTS_FACTFILE LD15.indd 47
Wanderlust Experts’ Guide to New South Wales 47
29/4/16 16:40:07