Wanderlust - Explore Tokyo

30 Years Of Taking The Road Less Travelled

TOKYO EXPLORE

ON TWO FEET

Welcome

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he moment you lay eyes on Tokyo, it’s a sensory overload that can be hard to fathom initially. As you begin to explore, this huge, mercurial metropolis bounces you around the ancient past and the neontinted future and back again. But despite its vast size, the best way to soak up Tokyo is via the most simple of methods: on two feet. By slowing down, you can knit together the Japanese capital’s modern face with its time-honoured past and really appreciate how closely they live side by side. Every neighbourhood across Tokyo is excitingly different to the next, each one making for miniature walking adventures, so you can fully experience the city, step by step. One minute, you could be strolling through the historic Edo-era core of Nihonbashi and the next you could be navigating the skyscrapers of Shinjuku, rubbing shoulders with the locals in its buzzing bars as night falls. To help you set off on the right foot, this guide has curated an eclectic selection of walking itineraries that weave through some of Tokyo’s iconic districts, as well as neighbourhoods that fly under the typical tourist radar. Then, when you need to escape the city’s busy centre, its bucolic outer fringes and remote islands are waiting to help you wind down. So, lace up your shoes and let’s go on an immersive stroll through Tokyo…

Editor-in-Chief George Kipouros Founding Editor Lyn Hughes Associate Editor Gareth Clark Special Features Editors Rosie Fitzgerald & Rhodri Andrews Special Features Assistant Editor Laura Field Sustainability Editor Karen Edwards Writer Thomas O’Malley Art Director Graham Berridge Digital Creative Director Anil Karwal Digital Editor Jessica Reid Chief Commercial Officer Adam Lloyds VP Brand Partnerships David Read Senior Creative Partnerships Manager Simon Bryson Chief Operating Officer Elliot Wellsteed-Crook Marketing & Social Media Manager Christina Wildman Mullett Wanderlust Club Manager Maria Manta

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This article was first published in the December 2023/January 2024 issue of Wanderlust, with the reprint supported by

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This is a reprint from Wanderlust Issue 230 (December 2023/January 2024) © Wanderlust Travel Media Ltd, 2023, ISSN 1351-4733 Published by Wanderlust Travel Media, Capital House, 25 Chapel St, Marylebone, London NW1 5DH. All rights are reserved. Reproduction in any manner, in whole or in part, is strictly forbidden without the prior written consent of the publishers. All prices are correct at time of press. No responsibility for incorrect information can be accepted. Views expressed in articles are those of the authors, and not necessarily the publishers. Wanderlust is a registered trademark.

TOKYO ON TWO FEET

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TOKYO ON TWO FEET

Japan’s capital may seem big on the outside but its cluster of eclectic neighbourhoods make it one of the world’s truly walkable cities

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othing quite prepares you for the scale and wonder of Tokyo, Japan’s capital and a city of overwhelming superlatives. One of the largest, densest and safest urban areas in the world, Tokyo has the biggest (and most punctual) urban rail network, the most Michelin-starred restaurants, and a wealth of cultural and architectural riches few other cities can match. A compelling blend of the traditional and the futuristic, Tokyo dazzles with electric nightlife, world-beating art and architecture, incense-wreathed temples and shrines, offbeat subcultures and a seemingly endless well of creativity.

In short, there’s nowhere else in the world like it.

Japan’s capital is within easy reach of the UK thanks to direct flights into Tokyo’s two major airports, Narita (NRT) and Haneda (HND). British Airways, JAL and ANA connect Heathrow non-stop with Tokyo in 13.5– 14 hours (hours can vary). Some of the fastest stopover flights – starting at around 15–16 hours, and often far cheaper – are operated by Finnair, Air France, KLM, Swiss, Lufthansa and Air China and many more airlines, with connections from regional UK airports.

The best mode of transport when you arrive in Tokyo is... yourself! For all its epic scale and sci-fi stylings, Tokyo is a superb city for strolling

thanks to its compact and accessible neighbourhoods, vibrant street life, scenic parks, gardens and waterfront areas, cultural attractions and countless places to stop for delicious food and drink. By exploring its characterful neighbourhoods at walking pace, you won’t miss a beat.

Don’t worry about getting lost – in Tokyo, that’s usually how you make the most unforgettable discoveries.

And, wherever you end up, you’re never far from a subway or train.

Whisking you from one walkable neighbourhood to the next, Tokyo’s public transport system is one of the most extensive and efficient in the world. In fact, many train and subway stations are attractions in themselves, home to glitzy department stores, malls and hundreds of restaurants.

Although you might feel bewildered at times, Tokyo’s train and subway system is easy to navigate thanks to English signage and announcements.

Google Maps is a helpful tool, too, with up-to-the-minute public transport information including route-planning suggestions and even tips for which subway exits to use, making travelling around on subway lines and urban trains a breeze.

Taxis, though relatively expensive, can be useful for short trips, and will always get you back to your accommodation after midnight, when subway trains stop running. ⊲

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TOKYO ON TWO FEET

CENTRAL TOKYO

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okyo’s heart is home to some of the city’s most prestigious and characterful neighbourhoods, from the shopping boulevards of Ginza to the subcultures of Akihabara.

GINZA

Bavarian sausages at Ginza Lion, Japan’s oldest beer hall, or coffee and cake at Café Paulista – Tokyo’s oldest kissaten, opened in 1910.

AKIHABARA Long known as an electronics district, ‘Akiba’ is synonymous with Japan’s otaku subcultures – hobbyists obsessed with anime, manga, cosplay and video games. It’s a great place to explore the more weird and wonderful side of contemporary Tokyo. A short hop from Akihabara Station is Akihabara Radio Kaikan, nine floors of geeky retail covering every fantasy and sci-fi franchise imaginable. Akihabara’s main drag, Chuo-dori, runs north–south, a valley of tall neon-lit billboards in kaleidoscopic colours. For a nostalgia hit, stroll over to Super Potato Retro-kan, where you can buy vintage consoles and play on throwback arcade machines from

Eclectic heritage (clockwise from top) Tokyo’s Ginza district at night; inspired by Indian architecture, Tsukiji Hongan-ji replaced an earlier temple levelled by the 1923 quake; Kabuki shows have played at the Kabukiza theatre since the late 19th century

your childhood. For the latest games, or to try your luck at a crane game, check out the Taito Station arcade.

For more otaku fun, Mandarake Complex is the place to go for manga and figurine shopping. Getting your geek on is hungry work, so duck into one of Akiba’s curry restaurants, such as Hinoya Curry, to refuel.

NIHONBASHI Tokyo’s centre during the Edo period (1603–1868), this commercial district takes its name from Nihonbashi (Japan Bridge), an old stone bridge adorned with kirin (mythical beasts) that was once the point from which all distances to the capital were measured. Stroll north from the bridge and you’ll find Japan’s oldest department store, Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi – the first iteration of which opened as a fabric shop in 1673 – its entrance guarded by bronze lions. The COREDO Muromachi

Map illustration: Scott Jessop; images: Alamy; Shutterstock

One of Japan’s most upscale neighbourhoods, Ginza is famous for luxury shopping, fine dining, and sipping coffee and tea at a traditional Japanese kissaten (café).

Start at lantern-adorned Kabukiza, Tokyo’s top Kabuki theatre. From there, head north-west to the muchphotographed Ginza street crossing.

It’s overlooked by grande-dame department stores such as Wako, with its 1930s Neo-Renaissance clock tower, and Ginza Mitsukoshi, dating from 1930. Browse that store’s depachika (basement food court), then ascend to the intriguing 9th-floor Art Aquarium, where thousands of goldfish dance in illuminated glass tanks. Stroll down Chuo-dori (pedestrianised in the afternoons on weekends and bank holidays), where you’ll find the grand flagship stores of luxury brands. Shop till you nearly drop, then recharge with beer and

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Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau; Alamy; Shutterstock

TOKYO ON TWO FEET

complex opposite is a showcase for Japanese crafts such as chefs’ knives, sake and lacquerware. Admire the treasures of the Mitsui Memorial Museum, housing a collection of superb Japanese art and artefacts, then seek out the shrine of Fukutokujinja, dedicated to the god of prosperity. Aptly, it’s only a short walk to the Tokyo Stock Exchange, open to the public on trading days. Stop en route at Mikado Coffee for coffeeflavoured soft-serve ice cream, or at one of the izakaya (pubs) favoured by traders at happy hour.

TSUKIJI On the banks of the Sumida River, the old industrial district of Tsukiji is most famous for the vast seafood market that operated here until 2018.

Although the wholesale auction

and tuna auctions have moved elsewhere, the Tsukiji Outer Market remains, a warren of narrow lanes home to market vendors, food stalls and seafood eateries. Come in the morning – many places close after lunch. For kitchen supplies, check out Tsukiji Hitachiya, or for a crash course in cooking sushi rice, book a workshop at Tsukiji Cooking. On the edge of the outer market is Namiyoke-jinja, Tsukiji’s shrine. Note the huge, fierce masks on display, used in a lion dance festival held every June. En route back to Tsukiji Station, visit Tsukiji Hongan-ji, a Buddhist temple built in the 1930s in an eye-catching Indian style.

KAGURAZAKA From Iidabashi Station, climb the sloping main street into this former

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pleasure quarter. The cobbled alleys of Kagurazaka were full of Geisha teahouses, of which a handful remain alongside restaurants, bars, craft shops and speciality stores.

Zero in on Kukuli for traditional hand-woven textiles, and Rakuzan for roasted green tea. One of the most atmospheric lanes to wander is Hyogo Yokocho, a cobbled alley lined with discreet inns and upscale restaurants. Kagurazaka also boasts hidden gems such as Cave-Ayumi Gallery, showcasing art from Japan and overseas. The nearby shrine of Akagi-jinja, remodelled by superstar architect Kengo Kuma, has an intriguing modern design. Heading south-east, stop for traditional sweets at historic Baikatei, or al-fresco drinks at Canal Café, overlooking what was once a castle moat. ⊲

City of lights (this page, from top) Manga-adorned billboards loom over Akihabara; Tsukiji’s Outer Market; lion masks guard the shrine of Namiyoke-jinja; learn to make sushi in Tsukiji; (opposite page) Ginza’s busy street crossings rival those in Shibuya

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NORTHERN TOKYO

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ess frequented by tourists, the neighbourhoods of northern Tokyo are ideal for getting off the beaten track at uncrowded temples, in quirky museums and on relaxing riverside paths.

IKEBUKURO Thrumming with people and commerce, this district north of Shinjuku has a quirky personality all its own. From Ikebukuro Station, walk east to the vast Sunshine City complex, the perfect place for some Tokyo-style urban hiking. There’s so much to discover – a 60th-floor observation deck, a penguin-bustling aquarium, Japan’s largest Pokémon store and Namjatown, a quirky theme park featuring an alley dedicated to desserts. Getting lost is half the fun.

Ikebukuro has gained a reputation as a place for female otaku – check out the wigs and cosplay gear at Acos, then carry on along Otome Road to Animate, another otaku superstore. Home to a chunk of Tokyo’s Chinese diaspora, Ikebukuro is also great for authentic Chinese food. Wind your way west

to tiny Yong Xiang Sheng Jian Guan for soup-filled Shanghai dumplings, and Yang the 2nd for spicy Sichuan dandan noodles, close to the angular glass facade of the Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre. Finally, leave behind the urban whirl and cross leafy Nishi-Ikebukuro Park into the peaceful, ivy-clad campus of Rikkyo University.

YANAKA & NEZU Step back in time to Showa-era Tokyo (1926–89) in the districts of narrow lanes, wooden buildings, retro-style snacks and little-visited temples. From Sendagi Station, make your way to Yanaka Ginza, a retro shopping street with an old-time community vibe – spot the seven lucky cat statues. Graze on cat’s-tailshaped donuts, ground-meat cutlets and traditional sweets en route to the ‘sunset steps’ of Yuyake Dandan for an elevated photo opportunity.

From here, it’s a short hop to the Asakura Museum of Sculpture – the former studio and residence of Fumio Asakura, known as the ‘Rodin of Japan’. Nearby Tenno-ji, one of the area’s many temples, is home to an ancient seated Buddha. From there, walk the cherry tree-lined avenue through Yanaka Cemetery and emerge to admire more art at SCAI The Bathhouse, a gallery space within a 200-year-old former bathhouse. Then enjoy a well-earned craft beer at Ueno Sakuragi Atari or a coffee at Kayaba, both in old wooden

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Secret north (this page, clockwise from above) Browse the vendors on Taishakuten Sando, Shibamata; spot Yanaka’s seven lucky cat statues; azaleas blaze in Nezu-jinja; Sunshine City in Ikebukuro is great for urban exploring, and is home to Japan’s biggest Pokémon store; (opposite page, clockwise from top right) Nezu-jinja’s famous red torii (gates); Shibamata’s silver-screen son Tora-san is celebrated in bronze; the Buddhist temple Shibamata Taishakuten is nearly four centuries old; explore Shibamata’s movie heritage at the Tora-san Museum

TOKYO ON TWO FEET

shophouses. If you’ve got the energy, keep walking to Nezu-jinja, one of Tokyo’s oldest Shinto shrines, with its path of red torii (gates).

NIPPORI Interested in DIY fashion and fabrics?

This district is for you. East of its namesake station, Nippori Fabric Town is a warren of around 90 shops and outlets selling every type of cloth, button, stitch and accessory, which can be purchased either wholesale or as individual pieces. If you’ve ever dreamed of starting your own fashion brand, or crafting a custom kimono, this is the place for you. Farther north, a short walk from ArakawayuenchiMae Station, the retro-styled riverside Arakawa Amusement Park features rides and sideshows served up with a slice of nostalgia for times past.

ITABASHI

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Also known as Itabashi City, this area was formed when nine towns and villages merged in the 1930s. A hike along the broad, green banks of the Arakawa River is a highlight.

The riverside Arakawa Todabashi Green Space, with its meadow-like expanse of grass, is a fine spot to start out – in summer it hosts a fireworks festival. Flowing parallel to the Arakawa, the Shingashi River is known for its cherry blossoms in spring. For a

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different take on the seasons, head to the Itabashi Botanical Garden. It’s like entering the tropical rainforests of South-East Asia as you stroll between climate-controlled zones home to unique trees and flowers.

SHIBAMATA This nostalgic old neighbourhood is famous in Japan as the setting for a series of films about a vagabond, Tora-san, which ran from the 1960s to the 1990s. You’ll spot a bronze statue of Tora-san outside the entrance to Shibamata Station. From there, walk north-east to Taishakuten Sando, a lively, narrow street of traditional food vendors. Snack on kusa dango (sticky rice dumplings) at Kameya Honpo as you approach the grand wooden gateway of Shibamata Taishakuten, a 400-year-old Buddhist temple. After admiring its intricate wood carvings, centuries-old pine tree and ornate garden, continue to Yamamoto Tei, a former merchant’s residence with a beautiful Japanese strolling garden set around a pond, with a historic teahouse. Moving south, enter Shibamata Park to find the Tora-san Museum, dedicated to the area’s movie heritage, before strolling the banks of the Edo River. If you’re hungry, head back to Taishakuten Sando and seek out Kawachiya, to feast on grilled eel with special sauce on rice, served in a lacquer box. ⊲

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TOKYO ON TWO FEET

EASTERN TOKYO

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ome of sumo, seafood and Tokyo’s most-visited temple, Senso-ji, the traditional neighbourhoods of eastern Tokyo are overlooked by the hypermodern TOKYO SKYTREE, the tallest freestanding tower in the world.

where vendors have sold goods since the 17th century. After exploring the temple precincts, continue northwest to the delightfully retro theme park of Hanayashiki, operating since 1883. Take a refreshment break along Hoppy-dori, lined with izakaya grilling chicken skewers and pouring cold beer. Make your way west through an appealing grid of narrow residential streets to Kappabashi-dori, aka ‘kitchen town’, where you can shop for Japanese kitchenware and even the realistic food models displayed outside Tokyo restaurants. Higashi Hongan-ji, an off-the-beaten-track Buddhist temple, is a great place to find some peace and quiet.

Classic Tokyo icons (this page, right and bottom) Tomioka Hachimangu is Tokyo’s largest Hachiman shrine and is devoted to the divinity of war; TOKYO SKYTREE soars 634m above the Asakusa skyline

RYOGOKU

ASAKUSA On the west bank of the Sumida River, this charming district retains an air of yesteryear. Overlooked by TOKYO SKYTREE, this highly strollable neighbourhood is centred on the temple complex of Senso-ji, one of the capital’s most visited sights. From Asakusa Station, make straight for the enormous red lantern hanging from the centre of the Kaminari-mon (Thunder Gate). Running north from there towards the temple is the stall-lined avenue of Nakamise-dori,

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The heartland of sumo wrestling, this district on the east bank of the Sumida River is home to the Ryogoku Kokugikan, Japan’s principal sumo stadium – you need to book weeks in advance for bouts during the tournaments staged in January, May and September, but check out its free Sumo Museum. Continue north along the river to reach the Kyu-Yasuda-teien, a historic stroll garden – one designed for gentle roaming – from the 17th century. Farther north is the Japanese Sword Museum, dedicated to the art of crafting the country’s distinctive blades. Reward yourself with a hot soak at Edo-yu, a five-floor spa complex, or a well-earned craft beer at Popeye, just south of Ryogoku Station. Hungry yet? Fill up on chanko-nabe, the hotpot beloved of sumo wrestlers, at Tomoegata – housed on the premises of a sumo training house.

TOYOSU An artificial island in Tokyo Bay, Toyosu is now the home of the famous fish market (formerly sited in Tsukiji) that moved here in 2018. Start at Shijomae Station for Toyosu Wholesale Market; arrive at 5.30am to absorb the fascinating spectacle of locals bidding on bluefin tuna as it’s auctioned off for millions of yen (thousands of pounds) each. Sushi restaurants at the market open in time for breakfast – head to Daiwa Sushi for sets of nigiri (handpressed sushi) made with the finest catch of the day. Toyosu is fringed by landscaped parks and promenades offering breezy sea views. At the tail end of the day, make your way to Toyosu Gururi Park and the water’s edge to admire the sweep of Rainbow Bridge looming large over Tokyo Bay. Amble north-east along the island’s northern promenade, through Shin-toyosu Sakura Park, to reach the unmissable teamLab Planets, an interactive digital modern art gallery.

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TOKYO ON TWO FEET

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KIYOSUMI SHIRAKAWA If you like modern art, coffee roasters and tranquil gardens, this laidback district is the place for you. From Kiyosumi-shirakawa Station, walk south to the artfully landscaped Kiyosumi-teien, gardens laid out around the home of an 18th-century daimyo (feudal lord), where turtles bask on stepping stones in the sun.

Time for a break? If pour-over coffee is your thing, find roastery and café Arise; if you prefer yours espressostyle or with milk, hip California import Blue Bottle Coffee has you covered.

For a dose of history, walk into the

past at Fukagawa Edo Museum, its lifelike dioramas recreating this neighbourhood during the Edo period. Next, take a stroll through residential lanes to the monolithic Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo (MOT), with its haul of modern art and a roster of big-name exhibitions.

When you’ve had your fill of art, wind down with a stroll south through Kiba Park, in which MOT stands.

FUKAGAWA Abutting Kiyosumi Shirakawa to the north-east, the walking highlights of Fukagawa lean towards the

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Reckoning with history (above, left to right) TOKYO SKYTREE provides far-reaching views across the capital’s diverse neighbourhoods; Ryogoku’s Kyu-Yasuda-teien stroll garden dates from the 17th century; the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo houses an impressive collection of modern art plus changing exhibitions

spiritual. Tomioka Hachimangu is the largest Hachiman shrine (devoted to the divinity of war) in Tokyo, its pleasant wooded grounds teeming with birdlife. It was here that sumo tournaments were first held in the 17th century – look for the Yokozuna Stone, on which are etched the names of sumo grand champions.

A short walk west is Fukagawa Fudo-do, an important temple of Shingon Buddhism. Several times a day, priests conduct goma rituals here, making offerings of fire on a raised altar; the flames can leap metres into the air. ⊲

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WESTERN TOKYO

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must for fashionistas, trend-hunters and anyone who wants to take the pulse of contemporary Tokyo, this quarter of the city is defined by the skyscrapers and bright lights of Shinjuku and the shop-lined streets of Shibuya and Harajuku.

SHINJUKU With its high-rises and hustle, this is where Tokyoites go to work – and to let down their hair afterwards. East of Shinjuku’s station is the area’s business district. Wander over to the twin-towered Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (or Tocho) and climb to the free observatory, over 200m up, for dazzling skyline vistas – featuring distant Mount Fuji on clear days. Stroll through adjacent Shinjuku Central Park and veer south to the Park Hyatt Tokyo, where Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson stayed in Lost in Translation, to splurge on a drink in the 52nd-floor New York Grill & Bar (closed January–March 2024 for facility improvements).

Backtrack towards the station and the department stores at Shinjuku Southern Terrace, or dive inside Tokyu Kabukicho Tower, Japan’s biggest entertainment complex, for retro fun among its gaming arcades and yokocho-style restaurant. Finish at Golden Gai, a hive of tiny bars that draws an eclectic, arty crowd.

SHIBUYA That a road intersection could become one of Tokyo’s most iconic

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Signs and statues (above and below right) Locals work and play in Tokyo’s neon-lit Shinjuku neighbourhood, just like the locals; the Hachiko statue outside Shibuya Station tells a charming story of canine loyalty

sights says it all about Shibuya.

During peak hours, up to 3,000 people ‘scramble’ across the Shibuya Crossing each time the lights change to green. Join the throng, then head south to Shibuya Station and the statue of Hachiko, a loyal dog who waited in the same spot every day for almost ten years after his owner had passed away. For epic bird’seye views of the district, head atop the SHIBUYA SKY observation deck or the rooftop garden at SHIBUYA FUKURAS. Next, take a stroll along Shibuya Center-gai, a pedestrian

street home to more teen fashion and fast food. Continue to Spainzaka (‘Spanish slope’), a narrow, brick-paved lane lined with diverse European-style buildings, and on to Shibuya Parco, a mall home to youth-focused basement Chaos Kitchen food court, as well as official Nintendo and Pokémon stores. Finish on the rooftop garden after a ‘spiral walk’ into the sky.

HARAJUKU Synonymous with fashion, this district is

TOKYO ON TWO FEET enclave of picnickers, Frisbee throwers and fashionistas. Before it became a public park, this was the site of the athletes’ village for the 1964 Olympic Games. Seek out the striking Yoyogi National Stadium, built for those games (and used again for handball at the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games), then pop out of the park to Nata de Cristiano for a bag of its sumptuous Portuguese custard tarts. Pair them with a single-origin brew from Little Nap Coffee Stand a little to the north, then climb west to Yoyogi Hachimangu, a Shinto shrine founded in the 13th century. Keep heading west and you’ll hit the sleepy suburb of Yoyogi-Uehara, studded with independent bakeries, cafés and Tokyo Camii, Japan’s largest mosque.

NAKANO

fashion, vintage stores, cosmetics and sweet snacks – try the dango (Japanese rice flour dumplings) at Hakata Yamadaya. Discover more kawaii (cuteness) at Cute Cube, a mall with vibrant teen styles. For something more grown up, chill out with a craft beer at Harajuku Taproom nearby.

YOYOGI

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This upscale district sandwiched between Shinjuku and Shibuya has lots of hip nooks to discover. Start at Yoyogi-koen Station and walk through the west gate of Yoyogi Park to find a vibrant, tree-shaded

also home to the Meiji-jingu, one of Tokyo’s grandest and most important spiritual shrines. From Harajuku Station, enter the forested precincts and follow the long gravel path under grand torii to the main shrine, built of plain cypress wood and dedicated to Emperor Meiji in 1920 (though rebuilt after Second World War fire-bombing raids). Next, stroll down the treelined boulevard of Omote-sando, admiring its flagship fashion stores.

For more youthful trends, delve into the boutique-lined alleys of the Ura-Harajuku district to the north, and window-shop your way towards Takeshita Street, a photogenic fashion bazaar. Here you’ll find street

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New wave Tokyo (from top to bottom) Araiyakushi Baishoin temple’s the place to look for a spiritual remedy for eye problems; for youthful fashion trends, browse Takeshita Street in Harajuku; Yoyogi Park in cherry blossom season is loved by local picnickers

Popular with otaku, this neighbourhood has an old-school vibe. From Nakano Station, wander into Nakano Sun Mall, a retro covered shotengai (shopping arcade). Some of the best finds are in the side streets – fans of film photography and vintage camera gear have shopped at Fujiya Camera since 1938. Farther north, Nakano Broadway is a five-floor retail complex specialising in manga, collectible action figures and other otaku staples – western Tokyo’s answer to Akihabara. Time for ice cream? Stop by Daily Chiko, a legendary stand serving skyscrapersized cones stacked with up to eight flavours at once. Finish with a slow amble north through low-key residential streets to Araiyakushi Baishoin, a temple where eye problems are reputedly cured. ⊲

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SOUTHERN TOKYO

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ighly strollable residential neighbourhoods, world-class contemporary art and the tech-forward islands of Tokyo Bay are just some of the reasons to point your feet towards Tokyo’s southern districts.

ODAIBA An island zone of reclaimed land tethered to Tokyo by the Rainbow Bridge, Odaiba offers malls, hi-tech entertainment and sweeping bay views. From Daiba Station, veer east to DiverCity Tokyo Plaza to marvel at a giant statue of Gundam, the robot hero of one of Japan’s most popular sci-fi franchises. Stroll southwards through Central Square to Miraikan – The National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation, home to yet more robots, then take the grassy seaside promenade north-west through Shiokaze Park and on to Odaiba Marine

Visual spectacles (this page, above and below) ponder modern works at Mori Art Museum; Tokyo City View in Roppongi affords an epic panorama of the city from the 52nd floor of the Mori Tower; (opposite page, clockwise from top) spring cherry blooms pink the Meguro River; stroll the Meguro Sky Garden atop an expressway loop; admire Louis Bourgeois’ 9m-tall Maman spider sculpture; Yebisu Garden Place occupies the site of a historic brewery

Park. Pause for a photo opportunity at the Rainbow Bridge Observation Deck, framing the mini Statue of Liberty in the foreground, then pop into DECKS Tokyo Beach to find Tokyo Joypolis, for some virtual reality gaming, followed by Osaka-style street food at the Odaiba Takoyaki Museum. Finish with a stroll on the sand along Odaiba Beach and, if you’ve got the energy, a walk along Rainbow Promenade.

SHINAGAWA & TENNOZU Tennozu is a gentrifying island enclave of warehouses where you’ll find plenty of eye-catching public art and a laidback vibe. Starting at Tennozu Isle Station, head to Archi-Depot, a gallery of miniature architectural models, then take a stroll through the warehouses of Bond Street to browse arty shops and cafés. Stop for a craft beer, burger and baked goods at T. Y. Harbor, a hip waterfront hangout. For a warehouse packed full of art, cross Shintokai Bridge west to Terrada Art Complex and take your pick from various galleries. Moving west into businessfocused Shinagawa, check out

Shinagawa Shrine, one of ten forming a wide ring around the Imperial Palace, then head north to the Nikon Museum, a must for shutterbugs (closing for relocation in March 2024).

NAKAMEGURO Trendy, leafy Nakameguro is studded with designer boutiques and hip cafés – and the place to stroll along the tree-lined Meguro River, which comes alive during sakura (cherryblossom) season. From Naka-meguro Station, cross the canalised river and duck into the Sato Sakura Museum, displaying contemporary art depicting Japan’s beloved cherry blossoms.

Grab a tasty takeaway fruit sandwich from nearby Daiwa Nakameguro, then begin your riverside stroll. For a taste of the area’s modish boutiques, check out Kinto Store Tokyo, a sleek Japanese design emporium. For a toothsome canalside break pause at the Riverside Club, a brunchfocused café-restaurant lounge with fine views. Continue west along the river to reach Meguro Sky Garden, an innovative nature area and urban greening project that conceals a loop of busy expressway.

This laidback, residential district boasts Yebisu Garden Place, a lifestyle development just a short walk south of Ebisu Station. The nearby Museum of Yebisu Beer (currently close; reopening as Yebisu Brewery Tokyo in April 2024) is a hit with beer fans, revealing the history of the Yebisu Brewery that operated here for a century until 1988. After enjoying a tasting flight of brews, delve into the excellent Tokyo Photographic Art Museum (TOP) within the same wider complex, showcasing famous photographers and exploring the history of the art form. For an unexpectedly wild

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TOKYO ON TWO FEET

ramble, make for the Institute for Nature Study, a wildlife-rich reserve of wooded hills and ponds now managed by the National Museum of Nature and Science. After exploring the trails, enjoy some well-earned R&R at the many izakaya along Ebisu Yokocho, a covered arcade tucked away just north of Ebisu Station.

ROPPONGI This neighbourhood is all about wild nightlife, highbrow art, shopping and bold contemporary architecture.

Get your bearings from 250m up at Tokyo City View, providing incredible skyline vistas that take in the iconic red-and-white Tokyo Tower. This observation deck is in Mori Tower, part of the exclusive Roppongi Hills development close to Roppongi Station. In the same complex you’ll find the eclectic Mori Art Museum, exhibiting some of Japan’s most thought-provoking contemporary works, and Maman, a 10m-high spider sculpture by the late French artist

Louise Bourgeois. For even more visual culture, walk north-west to the National Art Center, Tokyo, which hosts changing exhibitions featuring internationally renowned artists.

Complete the so-called Roppongi Art Triangle by heading east to Tokyo Midtown, another glitzy Roppongi development where you’ll find the Suntory Museum of Art, displaying decorative arts including ceramics, glass and lacquerware. Afterwards, queue up for a much-coveted bowl of umami-rich ramen at Iruca Tokyo. ⊲

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OUTLYING AREAS & ISLANDS

T

he outskirts of Tokyo’s vast urban sprawl are home to many walkable neighbourhoods, and the idyllic Izu Islands – a volcanic chain stretching hundreds of kilometres south of Tokyo Bay but part of the prefecture – are a boat ride away.

OKUTAMA Okutama may only be a two-hour train ride from Tokyo’s busy core, but it feels worlds apart. Here, natural beauty abounds. Okutama is a wild tapestry of forested mountains, rivers and lush woodland veined by hiking trails and immersive forest bathing opportunities. A must-do while you’re here is to trace the cedar-lined pathways to reach the top of Mitake peak (929m), one of Japan’s sacred mountains. As well as delivering widescreen panoramas of the surrounding lush landscape, it’s topped with a crimson-red shrine that’s been a centre of worship for 2,000 years. If you want a further challenge, Mount Odake (1,266m) lies close by. Its two-and-a-half-hour Rock Garden route is laced with moss-covered stones and revered waterfalls used by priests for takigyo (meditation under a waterfall).

HACHIOJI

Alamy; Shutterstock; Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau

Only 50 minutes from Shinjuku by train, the undisputed icon in the region of Hachioji is Mount Takao

(599m), another of Japan’s sacred mountains that boasts views of Mount Fuji from its summit on clear days.

Several walking routes weave up its slopes, with the Omotesando Trail the most popular and the Inariyama Trail the most challenging with its numerous steep inclines. Go in spring, when Takao’s cherry blossom trees bloom a fortnight later than central Tokyo. Near the mountain’s top lies Takaosan Yakuoin Temple, once a training centre for the ancient Japanese religion of Shugendo. The natural hot springs that flow from the

Escape from the city (this page from top to bottom) Hike among limestone karst plateaus on Mount Odake; the crater of Miharayama last erupted in 1990; (opposite page, clockwise from top left) Oshima Island boasts wild volcanic splendour; autumn is a special time in Tama; Mount Takao serves up epic vistas of the Tokyo cityscape; go on a rafting adventure near Tama

foothills of Mount Takao offer relaxing soaks after your hike.

OSHIMA ISLAND Oshima is the largest of the Izu Islands, a dreamy archipelago of submerged volcanic peaks that stretches south across the Pacific Ocean. It’s also the closest of the islands, and the easiest to reach from the capital – less than two hours away by hydrofoil ferry. Miharayama is the island’s volcanic peak, which last erupted in 1990. It’s laced with walking trails that wind up to the 758m summit, and another path circling the rim of the crater for stunning views. After your hike, head to Motomachi Hama-no-yu, a mixedsex rotemburo (outdoor hot spring) on the west coast near the boat dock.

Nothing beats lolling in volcanically heated water with the ocean stretching out in front of you – in clear weather there’s sometimes even a view of distant Mount Fuji. To learn more about the Izu chain’s volcanoes, check out the Izu-Oshima Volcano Museum, a short walk south.

TOSHIMA ISLAND Two and a half hours from Tokyo by high-speed boat, tiny Toshima Island

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has only about 300 residents. An untouched haven and important bird habitat, 80% of this 4-square-kilometre island is covered in camellia forests; they blaze red with ‘winter rose’ blossoms between January and March, and their seeds are harvested for their oil. Along the coast, keep an eye out for pods of friendly dolphins. Hikers head to Mount Miyatsuka, a conical peak that gives the island its striking volcanic shape; it takes around 40 minutes (the time can vary) to tackle the steep trail to the 507m summit, passing the island’s famously tall daylilies on route. On its southern slopes, Minamigayama Park provides stunning views of the Izu chain fading into the distance far to the south. Come prepared: tiny Toshima has few stores and no pharmacy.

MIYAKE ISLAND Mount Oyama, an active volcano looming 755m over the Pacific, dominates this island – the last major eruption back in 2000 saw all residents evacuated for five years. Accessible by overnight ferry from Tokyo’s Takeshiba Pier, Miyakejima (Miyake Island) has been dramatically affected by lava flows over the centuries. One of the most fascinating hikes to attempt follows the Ako Lava Flow Trail through a desolate landscape of hardened black lava flows. It reveals the impact of a major eruption in the 1980s that engulfed a village and a high school – fortunately, everyone was moved to safety. Miyakejima is also a paradise for snorkellers, and the deep blue waters beyond its craggy coastline teem with dolphins.

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