Wanderlust issue 185 sampler

Wanderlust Issue 185 (April 2018) Undiscovered Islands ♦ 25 Latin American Adventures ♦ Canada Trip Planner ♦ Tamil Nadu, India ♦ Greenland ♦ Pocket guides: Copenhagen, St Petersburg, Évora (Portugal)

Canada – from coast to coast Our guide to your favourite country

T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E A

! n i W pagos lá a trip to the G th Islands wor ! £12,000 See p 4

www.wanderlust.co.uk April 2018

India’s secret south-east

Temples and ancient culture in Tamil Nadu

Undiscovered

ISLANDS From the Pitcairns to South Georgia – why you need to explore these remote escapes

25 LATIN AMERICAN

ADVENTURES

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Raft, hike, kayak and dance your way through the best of the region

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Walk Greenland’s Arctic Circle Trail Conquer Copenhagen in 24 hours Take a short break in Évora, Portugal Discover the roots of St Petersburg 02/03/2018 13:17

360Ëš Viewfinder

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HANGING OUT Bahia, Brazil

Photographer: Luciano Candisani Having clambered up a cecropia tree in the Atlantic Forest, photographer Luciano Candisani came nose-to-snout with a threetoed sloth swinging on a branch as it fed on the leaves. This rare close-up, taken high in the canopy, impressed visitors to the Natural History Museum’s Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2017 competition, so much so that it won the ‘People’s Choice’ award. Proof that if you make the effort on your travels, you never know what kind of rewards you’ll find.

The Natural History Museum’s Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2017 exhibition is open until 28 May 2018; nhm.ac.uk

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360˚ Viewfinder

FACES TELL STORIES Madagascar

Photographer: Serge Anton As much as an otherworldly landscape or a flash of wildlife is an inspiring travel experience, so are the cultures we meet along the way. “The face is the mirror of the soul,” believes photographer Serge Anton, who has spent his career capturing portraits that tell a thousand stories, including these shots of the Mikea, Madagascar’s lastsurviving nomadic people. Now largely settled in the southern province of Toliara, they are unable to roam the rosewood forests they once called home due to logging, yet these portraits capture a people defiant in the face of an uncertain future – a tale told in a look.

Faces (Lannoo, £45) by Serge Anton is out now. www.lannoo.be

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Peaking interest

Gazing out from atop the summit of Cordillera Paine in Chile’s Torres del Paine NP – just one of many adventures to be found across Latin America

25 LATIN

AMERICAN ADVENTURES

Whether riding the volcanic slopes of Cotopaxi on horseback, snorkelling the reefs of Belize or zooming across the salt flats of Bolivia – Central and South America are packed with thrills…

WORDS DANIEL NEILSON

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Latin American Adventures

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OR 4WD IN THE SNORKELLING IN THE MOUNTAIN BIKE PANTANAL, BRAZIL WORLD’S SECONDTOURS FROM 1 BOAT 2 3 LARGEST REEF, BELIZE ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA WHERE: Mato Grosso do Sul & Mato Grosso Ignore that the public face of the Brazilian Pantanal is the piranha, and just dive (figuratively speaking) into the world’s largest wetland region – either by boat or by driving the 147km Transpantaneira across Mato Grosso. The Pantanal is home to more than 1,000 bird species while its long list of mammals includes the giant river otter, wolf, tapir and jaguar.

WHEN: Most visit between April and November, but the best time to see mammals in the wild is between July and October, as dry season ramps up.

HOW: For the northern Pantanal, fly into Cuiabá and it’s a 1.5hr drive to the Transpantaneira; for the south, fly into either Corumbá or Campo Grande.

WHERE: Belize coast The Central American country of Belize might be tiny but its coast leaves a big impression. The coral reef here makes up roughly a third of the 900kmlong Mesoamerican Reef. Explore charming cayes (Ambergris and Caulker), snorkel with nurse sharks in the Hol Chan Marine Reserve and plunge into the Blue Hole, a 300m-wide, 125m-deep chasm, sinking past circling reef sharks and javelin-like stalactites.

WHEN: Year round.

HOW: There are no direct flights from the UK to Belize City; most require overnight stays in Miami or Dallas. Boats and dive gear can be hired locally.

WHERE: Antigua The faithfully preserved colonial town of Antigua is the launch pad for some of the continent’s best mountain-biking. Ride through Maya villages, learning about their culture and traditions over three-day trips, enjoying heart-stopping views of Guatemala’s puffing volcanoes along the way and enjoying some thigh-busting ascents and gnarly descents. Finish with a tour of a cooperative coffee plantation – the cyclist’s favourite brew.

WHEN: Year round.

HOW: Cycle tours, including plantation stops, can be booked through the locally based Old Town Outfitters (adventureguatemala.com).

WHERE: Arenal Volcano National Park As well as exploding with wildlife, Costa Rica is a country that erupts from the ground, too. Its volcano belt is protected by the Arenal Volcano National Park and, until a few years ago, the fire and brimstone here could still be regularly seen spouting from its namesake volcano. Even more interesting is some of the wildlife that can be encountered while hiking the many trails around the park, from cheeky capuchin monkeys and curious coati to arguably the country’s most sought-after bird, the resplendent quetzal.

WHEN: Dry season is between December and April (though remember, this is still the rainforest) but it can also be pretty hot during this time. April to July is a good time to visit, as a cooler compromise.

HOW: The park’s trails can always be accessed independently, but a guide will help you to find the most exciting wildlife, with local tour op Jacamar Naturalist Tours (arenaltours.com) running popular tours of the forest interior.

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HIKING, COSTA RICA 4 VOLCANO

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TOUR, EL SALVADOR 5 SURFING

WHERE: El Salvador Surfers have long known that El Salvador is one of the world’s great places to ride the waves. And with plenty of travellers having at least taken the odd lesson already, why not test yourself in surf country.

There are dozens of surfing schools and camps in El Salvador, and don’t be too intimidated by the pictures of huge waves; there are plenty of places for beginners to practice just finding their feet.

WHEN: El Salvador’s peak season of big, consistent swell is between April and October.

HOW: If you want to join the surf community, El Salvador Surf Camps (elsalvadorsurfcamps.com) host visitors from everywhere. For beginners, try classes at Las Flores Resort (lasfloresresort.com).

AVENUE OF VOLCANOES, 6 ECUADOR

WHERE: Cotopaxi National Park Cotopaxi is the highest active volcano in the world, and there are few better ways to experience it up close than by riding its slopes on horseback and sleeping on its rumbling belly. The ‘Avenue of Volcanoes’ in central Ecuador offers drama on a scale rarely seen. Set out from the haciendas on four hooves to experience what Ecuadorian chagra (cowhand) life is like on the tough highland plains.

WHEN: Year round, but there are clearer skies from June to September.

HOW: Tierra del Volcan (tierradelvolcan.com) offers single- and multi-day horse rides from two rural haciendas around the park.

CANOPY BIRDWATCHING, 7 SURINAME

WHERE: Brokopondo District You can just imagine the great adventurers of old trekking through the wooden villages of Suriname, exploring caves and travelling its lush jungle-fringed rivers. Despite being the smallest country in South America, it offers some of the biggest adventures, not least high up in the canopies where Suriname’s wildlife likes to hang out. Join them on safaris that takes you deep into the jungle and let you loose on the zip-wire at Bergendal Adventure Center.

WHEN: Year round.

HOW: Independent travel is possible, though Orange Travel offers a wide range of activities, including the canopy tour (orangesuriname.com).

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THE ULTIMATE TRAVEL EXPERIENCE T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E www.wanderlust.co.uk February 2018

Foodie Greece

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Aegean island-hopping without the crowds

Alternative

THAILANDBEST

TRIPS 2018

Leaving the tourist trail for the kingdom’s secret spots

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Featuring: Patagonia Japan Mongolia Cambodia Russia Silk Road Chile Namibia Madagascar Sri Lanka Alaska & more...

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Great Barrier Reef, Australia Boston, USA Wild Africa Guide Awards

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Kate Humble in the Congo Sail away to St Kilda, Scotland Travel Icon: Havana, Cuba

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T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E

Win! Indiatrip to the Galápagos

A Your expert guide to Islands worth exploring the Golden £12,000!

See p4 Triangle and beyond

Orient Express or Interrail?

Temples and ancient culture in Tamil Nadu

Undiscovered

We pit the budget against the best

T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E

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Win! ian trip to the Canad

www.wanderlust.co.uk March 2018

From the Pitcairns to South Georgia – why you need to explore these remote escapes

25

LATIN AMERICAN ADVENTURES

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Raft, hike, kayak and dance your way through the best of the region

15/12/2017 19:18

Walk Greenland’s Arctic Circle Trail Conquer Copenhagen in 24 hours Take a short break in Évora, Portugal Discover the roots of St Petersburg

Rockies worth £2,500!

See p4

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Christmas Island

Discover wild wonders with new easy flights

Offbeat Cuba

Meeting the locals without the crowds

BEST TRAIN IN ISLANDS JOURNEYS THE WORLD

Win!

A tailormade trip worth £5,000!

See p4

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www.wanderlust.co.uk April 2018

Wanderlust Issue 182 (December 2017/January 2018) Travel Hot List 2018 ♦ Christmas Island ♦ Sweden’s wolves ♦ Buenos Aires ♦ Indonesia’s islands ♦ Pocket guides: Taipei (Taiwan), La Rochelle, San Francisco

Cross the continent in his revolutionary footsteps

Rafting, walking and wildlife watching… without the crowds

India’s secret south-east Wanderlust Issue 183 (March 2018) Best train journeys ♦ Orient Express vs Interrail ♦ Australia by rail ♦ Sri Lanka's national parks ♦ Japan by train ♦ Pocket guides: Gdańsk (Poland), Formentera (Spain), Valletta (Malta)

www.wanderlust.co.uk November 2017

Wanderlust Issue 185 (April 2018) Undiscovered Islands ♦ 25 Latin American Adventures ♦ Canada Trip Planner ♦ Tamil Nadu, India ♦ Greenland ♦ Pocket guides: Copenhagen, St Petersburg, Évora (Portugal)

Wanderlust Issue 183 (February 2018) Top 53 Trips for 2018 ♦ Costa Rica ♦ India ♦ Kate Humble in the Congo ♦ St Kilda, Scotland ♦ Pocket guides: Salta (Argentina), County Cork (Ireland), Havana (Cuba)

Wanderlust Issue 181 (November 2017) Alternative Thailand ♦ Che’s Latin America ♦ Foodie Greece ♦ Wild Africa ♦ Great Barrier Reef ♦ World Guide Awards – Results ♦ Pocket guides: Brussels, Hull and Boston

T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E Win!

Our guide to your favourite country

Costa Rica

Che Guevara’s Latin America

n to A photo commissio £3,000 Costa Rica, writing in cash or a to Thailand assignment See p4

Canada – from coast to coast

Featuring: Norway ● New Zealand ● Russia ● Canada ● USA ● Mexico ● Peru ● India ● Morocco ● Vietnam & more...

T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E www.wanderlust.co.uk December 2017/January 2018

Win!

to A hiking trip Norway worth! over £1,700 See p4

Sweden

Howling with wolves – just two hours from Stockholm

TRAVEL HOT LIST 2018

Featuring: Patagonia, Chile South Africa Russia Morocco Western Australia Colorado, USA Peru Tanzania The Baltics New Zealand and more...

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Indonesia’s islands San Francisco Taiwan La Rochelle, France

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Crossing Japan on the rails Sri Lanka’s best national parks Australia – from the Indian Ocean to the Pacific

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Time to Tango

Hot-foot it to Buenos Aires to join the dancing

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Into the wild

The tumbling forests of Yukon’s Kluane NP are overlooked by the largest peak in Canada, Mount Logan

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CANADA

T R I P

P L A N N E R

From Arctic wonders to the Sunshine Coast, it’s no wonder you voted Canada ‘Top Country’ in this year’s Wanderlust Reader Travel Awards. Discover more with our handy guide…

WORDS ANTHONY LAMBERT

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wind-blasted land. I talked to the rangers who looked after bears that had become too interested in the town and had to be put in ‘jail’.

I even saw a sedated bear being airlifted out of harm’s way and up the coast of Hudson Bay. It was a moving sight, not least for the dedication of the staff who made sure the bear was fine before returning home.

Travelling in a country roughly the size of Europe, it’s impossible to see more than a small part in one visit. From the iridescent turquoise of Peyto Lake, to spotting tens of thousands of migrating geese and ducks against a setting sun as I drove the prairies, there are so many magical moments. But perhaps the most rewarding were those that came out of the blue, such as kayaking among the coves on the coast of British Columbia and spying sea otters playing obliviously among ICELAND the kelp, or the day-trip from Port Alberni aboard the MV Frances GREENLAND Barkley via the roadless communities of Vancouver Island’s west coast.

This is a country of incredible variety, so read on to discover more…

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fter dozens of visits to Canada, nothing has stayed with me as vividly as my time in Churchill, looking for polar bears around Hudson Bay. But while the wildlife is the main attraction here, this town of about 1,000 people is an extraordinary place, with visiting scientists, lifelong Churchillians and non-Canadians so drawn to its wild beauty that they have made it their home. It recalled the same spirit that I found in accounts by the British explorer Samuel Hearne, whose journeys through the Arctic over two centuries ago made rich reading during the long, dark nights.

Ellesmere Island The first polar bear I saw was dozing in the lee of a snow-covered ARCTIC rock and blended so well with its surroundings that I was about to OCEAN leave the safety of the vehicle. I could see why Parks Canada mounted a bear patrol on Halloween night. During a week of forays in bizarre tundra buggies, I saw half-a-dozen bears and one cub in the flat,

Toronto

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Canada Trip Planner Hope & glory

Explore Hopewell Rocks during low tide and discover outcrops carved by the ocean and topped with foliage

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■ Edmonton New Brunswick & Nova Scotia

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spotting and kayaking in the bay to guided bear-watching further Calgary ONTARIO north in Acadieville, to hiking and biking Lake Regina the maple forests.

Nipigon Cultural highlights also Winnipeg Thunder range Bayfrom the astonishing collection at the Montreal Beaverbrook Gallery in Fredericton and or e SuperiArt Lak DURATION: 11 DAYS the city’s cathedral and garrison district to OTTAWA Lak e Best for: Wildlife, hiking, the 34-room ‘cottage’ on Campobello Island birdwatching and culture where Franklin Roosevelt used to summer.

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fine gardens; these include the White Garden inspired by its splendid English namesake at Sissinghurst Castle Garden in Kent.

And then there’s the dining. The seafood is exceptional here, with Shediac known far and wide as the ‘Lobster Capital of the World’.

Be sure to also try the lobster rolls at the Saturday farmers’ market in Fredericton.

Wanderlust April 2018

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Majority rule

On the Arctic Circle Trail, reindeer outnumber peopleÂ

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Greenland

Walk on the

WILD SIDE

Away from the polar bears and ice cap is a little-known hiking trail that traces the line of the Arctic Circle. Intrigued, we packed our sense of adventure and headed north…

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS PHOEBE SMITH

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THE WINNERS

What’s fresh? Who to book with? And, of course, which destination bagged the top spot? Here’s the answers from travel’s best-journeyed barometers: the Wanderlust readers

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