Wanderlust 198 sample

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Wanderlust Issue 198 (July/August 2019) • Nepal: Trek Planner + Mexico: Day of the Dead + The Algarve + Chad + Adventure cruising • Pocket guides: Guyana + Malta + Christchurch

THE ORIGINAL TRAVEL MAGAZINE

Secret Portugal

TRAVEL PHOTO OF THE YEAR Win an amazing photo trip to TEXAS

The other side of the Algarve

MEXICO’S DAY OF THE DEAD

Beyond the hype

NEPAL Walking

Trek among mountains, temples and nature along the world’s most spectacular trails

INSIDE: Malta + Caribbean + Slow travel + Adventure cruising + Christchurch

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Contents

Features & pocket guides 44 Mexico

Skulls, rituals and the graveyard shift.

Pátzcuaro’s Day of the Dead brings everyone together – even travellers

80 Portugal

Discover the lesser-seen side to the Algarve, with wild walks, historic villages and blue lagoons galore

94 Chad

Not long ago, Zakouma NP’s wildlife was battling total extinction; now it is one of Africa’s greatest parks

PAGE

COVER STORY

58

PAGE

Nepal : Trek Planner Teahouse treks, base-camp ascents and Sherpa culture – here’s why Nepal is every walker’s paradise

108

116 Adventure cruising

From navigating the Danube to crossing the Pacific – here’s our pick of the top cruises to float your boat

159 First 24 hours: Georgetown, Guyana

Soak up Creole culture and colonial gems in the South American city with a West Indian soul

161 Travel icon: Christchurch, New Zealand Explore the South Island city’s rebirth with a look at its thriving arts scene

163 Short break: Malta

Malta’s sister island of Gozo is quiet, wild and a world apart, yet very few take the time to really discover it

Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year It’s that time of year again! Enter your best travel shots and be in with a chance of winning a trip to Texas

Points of view 12 Viewfinder

Top photos, from ‘bleeding-heart monkeys’ to 24 hours in one shot

20 Your letters & photos

Everest treks, sunsets in Laos and everything else you’ve been up to

44

170 The real wonders of the world

Why Madagascar’s tsingy forest is the travel icon you’ve never seen

94

116

10 wanderlust.co.uk July/August 2019

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This issue mapped

WIN…

PAGE

An epic voyage for two to Iceland, Jan Mayen and Svalbard worth £10,000 p114

Alaska p117 Amsterdam p135 Argentina p138 Australia p120 Brazil p138 Budapest p135 Cambodia p33 Canada p30, 117, 136 Cape Verde p119 Chad p94 Copenhagen p135 Corsica p150 Costa Rica p41 Croatia p33 Cuba p28 Dominica p38 Dominican Republic p38 Ecuador p133 Egypt p127 Ethiopia p12 France p14, 150 French Polynesia p138 Germany p127 Greece p32 Guyana p159 Iceland p114 India p18, 31, 32, 123 Indonesia p36, 76, 118 Italy p32 Jamaica p42 Madagascar p170 Maldives p31 Malta p163 Mexico p44, 131 Myanmar (Burma) p119 Nepal p58 New Zealand p131, 161 Norway p114, 129 Papua New Guinea p122 Peru p122, 144 Portugal p80 Romania p135, 148 Russia p34, 136 Scotland p121 Senegal p138 Serbia p135 St Helena p138, 150 Stockholm p135 Tanzania p31 Texas p108 USA p16 Uzbekistan p146 Zimbabwe p133

76

Wandersleeps: Bali eco-stays

Immerse yourself in cool bamboo eco-lodges and hilltop hideaways with the Indonesian isle’s top responsible escapes

Explore

148

25 Grapevine

The latest news and trips in travel

28 Go now: Havana, Cuba As the city gears up to mark its 500th year, here’s why it’s time get lost in long Havana nights

30 The trip

Slower doesn’t mean boring – we pick the top slow adventures

36 Eat this

Discover

38 Head to head: Caribbean escapes

147 The knowledge

Raft in and drop out at Costa Rica’s jungle-set Pacuare Lodge

42 Dispatches

Why Jamaica proves that you should never meet your heroes – even those that are already dead

36

34

Advice on living the Peruvian high life, as related by you, the reader

146 Just back from

41 Dream sleep

For more from author Sara Wheeler, see our interview on page 34

144 Your travel tips

How leftover rice became the dish that defined Indonesia

Which island is right for you – the Dominican Republic or Dominica?

“”

They know Vladimir Putin is corrupt… Their attitude is less that he is a monster, but that he’s ‘our monster’

Your tales from Uzbekistan World Guide Awards finalist Sara Bull on finding her feet in the wild

148 Ask the experts

From Transylvanian trekking to teaching in India – our gurus tell all

150 Instant expert

Napoleon is 250 – here’s how to exile yourself like an emperor

151 Health

This issue’s highlights

Dr Jane on why yellow fever boosters are a medical minefield

152 How to…

153 Travel books

Sara Wheeler and Stephan Orth on their adventures in Russia; plus all the latest travel reads reviewed

Russia, p34

Portugal, p80

Navigate the FCO’s no-go zones Mexico, p44

Chad, p94

Nepal, p58

Cuba, p28

155 Gear

Everything you need for your next adventure cruise covered

New Zealand, p161

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King Colourful of the mountain Cuba Simien Havana, Mountains, Cuba Ethiopia

Photographer: Photographer: Marco Geraint Gaiotti Rowland The “This Simiens was taken sit on on many theaseafront canny traveller’s road in Havana. One bucket afternoon, list and after its not a heavy hard to downpour, see why – Ithis returned to this simmering beautifulmassif white Orthodox is home tochurch the gelada. and photographed the With old cars fur like asathey coiffured drove‘80s past, rock using godaand fastashutter speed bright to freeze the slash of red splash across of water its chest made (it’sby the vehicles.” known Congratulations as the ‘bleeding to all heart the finalists monkey’), ofthis this year’s Travel endemic Photo of Ethiopian the Yearprimate competition. defies Over the next eight pages convention you can enjoy in many the ways. fabulous They winners spend of the four categories their days in their full notglory; in trees for but the grazing complete in herds, list, turn to page 110. making them easy for visitors to spot on the rocky hiking trails. © ClickAlps /AWL Images

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VI E W FI N D E R

UPFRONT

“He who climbs upon the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary.”

Friedrich Nietzsche

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The top nine

SLOW ESCAPES Taking it slow can truly enhance your travel experience.

Here are some of the best…

RIVER WONDERLAND

PADDLE THE WATERWAYS OF CANADA Leave civilisation behind and paddle more than 320km of the great Yukon River on the Yukon Canoe Adventure with Grand American Adventures. As you voyage deep into the remote Canadian wilderness, you’ll end up following the renowned gold-rush route, traversing the same waters that were once a lifeline to the miners. Camp out on riverbanks watched by curious beavers and even glimpse the odd bald eagle stalking the skies as you roam through abandoned trading posts and settlements, such as Hootalinqua and Big Salmon Village, and revel in the absolute stillness of it all.

Who? Grand American Adventures When? 14 July; 4 & 25 August 2019 How long? 8 days How much? From £979 (excluding int’l flights)

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THE TRIP

EXPLORE

BACK TO BACKWATERS

GET LOST ON MAZY WATERWAYS, INDIA Take your time and enjoy Kerala’s intricate lagoon network on Corinthian Travel’s Slow Kerala Backwater Cruise. With three nights to enjoy the sleepy waters (one-night cruises are the norm here), you can fully unwind and appreciate the gentle life of the rural villages that line the shores. On land you can enjoy unhurried cycle rides through remote communities and visit bustling bazaars and serene temples, then try your hand at private cookery classes in the spice port of Cochin.

Who? Corinthian Travel (020 3583 6089; corinthiantravel.co.uk) When? Year-round How long? 8 days How much? From £1,145 (excluding int’l flights)

TROPICAL SAILING

SAIL THE HEART OF THE MALDIVES Attune yourself to the rhythms of the South Malé Atoll and embark on a Maldives Dhoni Cruise with G Adventures. Sail across the islands on a traditional dhoni boat, before wallowing in turquoise lagoons, snorkelling among the coral reef and swimming alongside turtles, reef sharks and stingrays. Then let friendly locals take you under their wing as you embrace the laid-back Maldivian lifestyle far from honeymooners and beach dwellers. Perfect for a slow, authentic escape.

Who? G Adventures (0344 272 2060; gadventures.co.uk) When? Year-round How long? 7 days How much? From £1,129 (excluding int’l flights)

WILDLIFE WONDERS

G Adventures; Oana Dragan

ANSWER THE CALL OF THE WILD IN TANZANIA Swap 4WDs for your own two feet and stroll the hills, kopjes and valleys of the northern Serengeti on a Walking Safari with Natural High. Walking from camp to camp, slow down and become one with the landscape and wildlife as you join a cast of thousands of wildebeest and zebra on their migration. Seek out big game by spying wind direction and the behaviour of other wildlife, and enjoy the thrill of the slow reveal.

Who? Natural High (01747 830950; naturalhighsafaris.com) When? Selected dates June–October 2019 & 2020 How long? 7 days How much? From £4,750 (excluding int’l flights) ⊳

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THE TRUE SPIRIT OF

MEXICO Mexico’s Day of the Dead captured the world’s attention with its skulls and colours, but behind the facepaint is a touching celebration that embraces everything that’s good about life – and death WORDS NICK BOULOS

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MEXICO

No bones about it

A woman dressed up as La Calavera Catrina, an iconic symbol of Día de los Muertos created in the early 1900s by artist José Guadalupe Posada

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Top of the world

Gazing out over a Khumbu Valley smothered in cloud

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NEPAL TREK PLANNER

Whether overnighting in teahouses or camping on mountainsides, some of the best walks on the planet are found among the peaks and valleys of Nepal. We plot a route for every kind of adventure‌ WORDS BRADLEY MAYHEW

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The

Other Sideof the

Algarve

Most travellers dismiss Portugal’s Algarve as a whirlwind of booze and beaches, but its quiet east is a land of wild walks, lagoons and historic villages waiting to be explored…

WORDS ROBIN MCKELVIE

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PORTUGAL

The river not so wild Boats line the scenic waterfront of Tavira’s peaceful Gilão River

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Planning your trips for 2019 and beyond?

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Wanderlust Issue 195 (April 2019) • 20 Silk Road Adventures + Michael Palin + Reader Travel Awards + Patagonia + Namibia + Chad • Pocket guides: Luang Prabang + Scottish Highlands + Vancouver

The 20 best

SILK ROAD ADVENTURES

Trek with camel herders, explore desert citadels and follow Marco Polo’s footsteps across China, Iran and the ‘Stans

WORTH £8,000

THE ORIGINAL TRAVEL MAGAZINE EXCLUSIVE

Michael Palin

On 30 years of TV globetrotting

Tracking Pumas in Patagonia READER TRAVEL AWARDS WINNERS

Your top picks for 2019

INSIDE Namibia + Luang Prabang + Chad + Scottish Highlands + Vancouver

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Wanderlust Issue 198 (July/August 2019) • Nepal: Trek Planner + Mexico: Day of the Dead + The Algarve + Chad + Adventure cruising • Pocket guides: Guyana + Malta + Christchurch

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ACCOMMODATION

THE ORIGINAL TRAVEL MAGAZINE

DREAM SLEEP

Secret Portugal

TRAVEL PHOTO OF THE YEAR Win an amazing photo trip to TEXAS

Don’t fancy facing the cold? In these new glass igloos, you can watch the northern lights from your bed.

Just don’t fall asleep…

The other side of the Algarve

MEXICO’S DAY OF THE DEAD

Get there

Finnair (finnair.com) flies from London Heathrow and Edinburgh to Rovaniemi (via Helsinki) from £196 return. From Rovaniemi, it is a one-hour drive to Arctic Fox Igloos.

Transfers can be arranged on request (€48/£42pp).

Beyond the hype

NEPAL Walking

Trek among mountains, temples & nature along the world’s most spectacular trails

EXPLORE

Arctic Fox Igloos, Finnish Lapland

Cold comforts Spy the northern lights from under the covers

Y

ou can keep your scientific explanations for the northern lights; we’re sticking with Finnish folklore, which says it’s the leap of an Arctic fox that creates the ethereal glow.

With the swish of its tail, the fox sends sparks and snowflakes flying, which dance back down to earth in jewel-coloured swirls.

But, for some of us, the spectacle doesn’t quite live up to the legend.

Icy feet and frozen fingers can dampen the spirits of even the most ardent aurora hunter – especially if the lights themselves are being shy.

No, the secret of a great lights-

Take a tour spotting trip is to hole up in the most comfortable nook, and we think we’ve found it in some cosy beds in Ranua, Finnish Lapland.

The clear-roofed bedrooms of Arctic Fox Igloos glitter like glass baubles on the snowy shores of Lake Ranuanjarvi – one of Finland’s top lights locations thanks to its lack of light pollution. You’ll have a frontrow view of the skies from under your covers, with a coffee machine (you don’t want to fall asleep, do you?) and heated glass panels to melt away any snowfall. When the lights appear, their reflections shift on the lake’s glassy waters, making them a dream for photographers.

SAVE ALMOST 50% ON THE COVER PRICE Marko Junttila/Discover the World

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Each igloo is secluded, with a living area, bathroom and sauna tucked away in the (reassuringly opaque) wooden structure out back. And if the lights don’t show? There are plenty of Arctic activities nearby, such as husky sledding, reindeer safaris and snowshoeing, as well as Ranua Wildlife Park, where Arctic animals roam through the tundra.

Indeed, the park is one of the few places where Finnish Arctic foxes can still be found. And if a flick of their tails doesn’t boost your chances of seeing the lights, surely nothing will.

Opens on 1 December 2018.

B&B doubles from €419pn (£370); arcticfoxigloos.com

Discover the World (discover-the-world. com) run a five-night Aurora Glass Igloo and Ranua Wildlife Park tour, which starts at £1,473pp (incl flights), with a night at Arctic Fox Igloos, four nights in other accommodation, half-board meals, a visit to Ranua Wildlife Park and various activities (husky sledding, snowmobiling, snowshoeing and more).

wanderlust.co.uk December 2018/January 2019 39

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INSIDE: Malta + Caribbean + Slow travel + Adventure cruising + Christchurch

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From cowboy country to the food trucks of Austin – find your spurs in the Lone Star State

Plus

Back on the rails

Explore Europe from tip to tail on the continent’s best train journeys

Getty Images

Call of the wild

Walk with painted wolves in Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools NP

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