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Wanderlust Issue 205 (April 2020) • Reader Travel Awards 2020 + Sri Lanka Trip Planner + Mongolia + Finland + Morocco • Pocket guides: Aarhus + Amiens + Singapore Changi
READER TRAVEL AWARDS 2020
WORTH £15,000
Travel Well
SRI LANKA Back on the map Namibia. Vietnam. Scottish Highlands. All this year’s big winners – as voted for by YOU
BEARS IN FINLAND
Explore Europe's largest lake district 001_Cover_205_SO.indd 1
MAGICAL MONGOLIA
Steppe into Asia’s Big Empty
MOROCCAN ODYSSEY
Road-tripping the Atlantic coast 02/03/2020 09:04
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TR AV E L PH OTO O F TH E Y E A R
UPFRONT
TRAVEL PHOTO OF THE YEAR VISITORS’ VOTE WINNER
Colourful village Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari, Iran
Photographer: Babak Mehrafshar It’s rare to see a picture with so many layers, but photographer Babak came upon this complex image of Sar Aqa Seyyed village as he wandered through the province at sunrise, when everyone else was sleeping. Built into a mountain, the village homes all interconnect, with the roofs serving as courtyards and streets for the buildings above. Not only does this set-up draw the eye, but so does the lone woman at the centre, carrying forage for her livestock. Congratulations to Babak for winning the Visitors’ Vote of this year’s Travel Photo of the Year exhibition, held at the Destinations Travel Show. Over the next four pages, you can discover which images were the runners-up.
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Leading light
The cloud-piercing light illuminates the yurts outside the sum (district) centre of Delßßn with the main Altai ridge in the distance
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MONGOLIA
The
LIGHT fantastic Head to the Altai Mountains of West Mongolia for natural splendour, nomadic hospitality and swirling, luminous skies WORDS HENRY WISMAYER PHOTOGRAPHS MARCUS WESTBERG
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I
t was early evening in the Chigertei Valley when I found myself standing on a weathered buttress, cheering the sudden onset of clouds. A fresh weather-front was barrelling in over the Altai massif, and now the clouds were pluming at the mountaintops, some of them wispy and translucent, others dark and throwing shadows, draping columns of rain. By now I understood what this foreshadowed. Soon, the cloud-cover would fracture the dusk light, and sunbeams would daub chiaroscuro patterns on the land, transmuting the grasslands into prairies of gold. Far away, on the valley floor, smoke spiralled from yurt chimneys; a pair of boy-herders chivvied their sheep alongside a stream. But these were pinpricks of humanity on a floodplain big enough to swallow Manhattan. Up here, I felt certain, the only sentient beings sharing this vantage with me were the snow leopards padding unseen on the ridgelines, and the raptors wheeling in the sky. If you had questioned me on the Heathrow tarmac about my reasons for visiting Western Mongolia, I’m not sure I’d have been able to answer without sounding absurdly gauzy or grandiose. A couple of weeks before my trip, the world marked the 50th anniversary of the first Apollo moon landing. Neil Armstrong famously described the lunar surface as a “magnificent desolation.” That phrase approximated the palliative I sought: somewhere remote and unmarked, where humanity’s incursion felt transitory, and no-one understood the phrase ‘Instagrammability’. Short of paying Musk or Branson several million dollars to visit outer space, West Mongolia, where the Altai Mountains provide a sublime backdrop to the most sparsely populated country in the world, seemed as good a bet as any.
‘I sought somewhere remote, where no-one understood the phrase ‘Instagrammability’’
But before flying westwards, photographer Marcus and I had arrived in Ulaanbaatar. Here shanties of gers, Mongolia’s ubiquitous yurts, proliferated under the fumes of coal-plant smokestacks while new skyscrapers, assembled from the profits of the extractive industries, principally copper, glistened on the skyline. On the advice of Jan Wigsten, a Swedish-born doyen of adventure travel in Mongolia, we’d opted to spend our week in the Khovd aimag (province), abutting the Chinese border. Jan said the mountainous west promised something more untouched than the better-known tourist spots around Ulaanbaatar, albeit one mostly populated by ethnic Kazakhs, herders who had migrated across the Altai Mountains over the course of the 19th century. “It isn’t really site-specific,” Jan had told me. “It’s just a wonderful place to get lost in the great Mongolian void.” Void, meaning ‘vacancy; empty space.’ It wouldn’t take long to realise that Jan was rather underselling it.
Provincial life The sharp-nosed Embraer aircraft touched down in Khovd, the provincial capital, in the early afternoon. There to greet us were driver Nurbat, and Berdigul, a grandmotherly figure in a pink cardigan, who also happened to be a polyglot, and a sage and patient guide. Our ultimate destination was Delüün, a four-hour drive over pastel steppelands, first on the smooth new road built by the Chinese as part of their Belt and Road initiative, later on the unsealed tyre tracks that wove towards the main Altai massif. Dwarfed by its environs, overlooked by the magnificent saddle of Ikh Yamaat (also known as ‘Big Goat’ mountain), Delüün appeared like a tiny outpost in the vastness of a wide plain. But it turned out to be a supine town of 4,000 people, its dust-blown aspect enlivened by bright metal roofs in blue, pink and green. The high-street consisted of two shops, and a low-ceilinged restaurant where we would end up eating half our bodyweight in mutton dumplings. We stayed in a wide, crumbly building where the friendly owner, Yelik, a national park ranger, had converted parts of the upstairs into guestrooms with gaudy throws and golden wallpaper. ⊲
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MONGOLIA
In plain view
Mongol horses grazing in a valley between Khovd and Delßßn
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READER TRAVEL AWARDS 2020 THE WINNERS
Last year you ranged far and wide, thumbed many guidebooks, put a lot of gear to the test and generally proved yourself the most-travelled lot around. What you think really matters – so here are your top picks: definitively the best of the best
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WANDERLUST READER TRAVEL AWARDS 2020
Apricot deserts
A herd of elephants in the Kalahari at sunset; (previous page) walking on the sand dunes in Walvis Bay, Namibia
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⊳ TO P C O U N T R Y
Namibia
AWL
“BORING!” Shouts absolutely nobody, as Namibia takes your top spot for the second year in a row, and as it has done on multiple occasions in the history of these awards. Namibia – wild, wonderful, diverse, conservation-dedicated Namibia – is a worthy winner every time. It’s a neat birthday present too – Namibia celebrates its 30th year of independence in 2020, and it’s ageing well. Of course, many of its attractions are timeless – the ancient apricot deserts, the Big Five wildlife, the untamed Skeleton Coast, the gaping Fish River Canyon. But there’s more. This is a country that seems, largely, to be getting it right in terms of protecting its natural assets. An emphasis on communityfocused conservation is seeing species thrive and local people benefit. It’s a beacon of hope in these most worrying of times. Talking of the times, perhaps that’s another part of Namibia’s appeal. As the world’s second-least densely populated country – with only three people per square kilometre – it’s the perfect place to escape the tech-noisy, overcrowded, in-your-face-ness that dominates elsewhere. Come to Namibia to find the antidote; to find space, peace and stars. It’s great to see Peru rising back up the list too – up from ninth in 2019. The enticing Andean nation has been a victim of its own success, suffering from overtourism as we all clamour to its headline acts. But the government is increasingly trying to change that by encouraging travellers to choose different hikes to Machu Picchu – such as the newer Quarry Trail – and to branch out to the country’s less-heralded but also-impressive archaeological sites such as Chavín de Huántar and the huge complex of Kuélap. Lovely Laos rounds out the top three. Probably because it’s laidback South-East Asia just right: smiley, scenic, good-value and delicious with a pleasing amount of characterful hotels and modern comforts but not so much that it’s lost its charm and soul. Long may that last. ⊳ RANKINGS 1 Namibia 2 Peru 3 Laos 4 New Zealand 5 Japan 6 Tanzania 7 Canada 8 Kenya 9 Vietnam 10 India
96.47 96.33 96.25 96.19 95.63 94.84 94.71 94.59 94.49 93.33
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Wanderlust Issue 205 (April 2020) • Reader Travel Awards 2020
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READER TRAVEL AWARDS 2020
BEARS IN FINLAND
MAGICAL MONGOLIA
Explore Europe's largest lake distr ict
MOROCCAN ODYSSEY
Steppe into Asia’s Big Empty
Road-tripping the Atlantic coas t
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MEXICO
28/02/2020 17:40
Go Now
MEXICO
HAVANA
SCOTLAND
EXPLORE THE NUMBERS
Havana good time
260 million
A LOCAL ICON
Cadillacs, colour and colonial-era charm along the Paseo del Prado
Ernest Hemingway
for a 500th birthday fiesta
“Wherever a man feels like home… that’s the place he was destined to be,” Ernest Hemingway once wrote. If that’s true, the writer certainly found his in Havana – at Finca Vigía, where he wrote The Old Man and the Sea. Now a museum dedicated to his legacy, Finca Vigía offers an intimate insight into the man himself. Get a glimpse of his personal belongings, before heading out into the tropical garden to spot his boat, the Pilar, next to the headstones of his four dogs.
THE DESTINATION:
HAVANA, CUBA
Number of hand-rolled cigars Cuba produces per year. Cigars are the country’s second-highest export – raw sugar sneaks into first place.
Wide-eyed on the
638
WILD ISLES
Number of alleged
assassination attempts the CIA made against Fidel Castro. Poisoned pens, exploding cigars and femme fatales were all among the methods tried over the years. Get there
Virgin Atlantic flies direct from London Gatwick to Havana from £575 return in ten hours; Air France and KLM fly from London Heathrow via Paris and Amsterdam from £466.
No bones about it
A woman dressed up as La Calavera Catrina, an iconic symbol of Día de los Muertos created in the early 1900s by artist José Guadalupe Posada
The city of Cadillacs, cocktails and the Castros has smartened itself up for its quincentennial celebrations, but hasn’t lost an iota of its raggedy charm. Hemingway would still feel right at home
F
ive hundred years of stories saturate the sultry streets of Havana, and yet, this one-time playground for hedonistic high-lifers remains full of surprises. You may still spot the odd vintage Cadillac on the streets, but change is stirring. Last year’s presidential handover served up the latest twist to the national drama, signalling the end of the Castro brothers’ decadeslong hold over the position. And with significant restorations to landmarks complete for Havana’s
Mexico’s Day of the Dead captured the world’s attention with its skulls and colours, but behind the facepaint is a touching celebration that embraces everything that’s good about life – and death WORDS NICK BOULOS
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quincentennial celebrations, it’s a fitting time to join the party. A stroll down Paseo del Prado is a great way to introduce yourself to the Habaneros’ way of life. Hazy afternoons along this promenade often stumble into long nights, and hours can be lost prowling through the bustling weekend art market. Wander off track into Old Havana to discover some of the city’s most impressive sights: the art deco Bacardi Building and the Gran Teatro de La Habana, where prima ballerinas often perform to stagestruck guests. You’ll also spot
the white-domed El Capitolio, the renovated seat of Cuba’s national assembly and one-time scene of a diamond heist. A replica of the jewel (since recovered) is embedded inside the main hall floor. Much of the city’s charm rests within its centuries-old colonial plazas. Admire Havana Cathedral, once described as “music turned to stone”, before pausing to sample the best mojito in town (according to Havanaphile Ernest Hemingway) at La Bodeguita del Medio bar. Keep walking and you’ll find Plaza de Armas, the city’s oldest
square, peppered with secondhand booksellers. Swing by the Museo de la Ciudad, too, for a history of Havana inside a former colonial governor’s palace. Then, take in the mish-mash of Cuban baroque and art nouveau façades at Plaza Vieja, before winding through the harbour-facing Plaza de San Francisco, where a fountain of lions proudly holds court. Then follow your ears and spend your evening – and night – somewhere where the salsa is live and the crowd is livelier, and maybe find a story twist of your own.
28 wanderlust.co.uk July/August 2019
1959
The year Che Guevara’s column of troops reached an unresisting Havana, effectively ending the Cuban Revolution. ¡Hasta siempre, Comandante!
IF YOU ONLY DO THREE THINGS
Hike round historic Havana
AWL Images; Shutterstock; Alamy; 4 Corners Images
THE TRUE SPIRIT OF
April 2020 wanderlust.co.uk
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DRINK UP
GO BACK IN TIME
The Parque Almendares is the lungs of Havana. Wander or pedal through this urban oasis where trees hundreds of years old drape their vines across the land, creating the impression you’re cloaked by a thick green curtain.
The whizz of blenders whipping up Hemingway-approved daiquiris resounds at El Floridita. Sidle up to the life-size statue of Havana’s hard-drinking ‘Papa’, who supposedly downed 13 double daiquiris in a single sitting.
Soak up Cuba’s glamorous history at the Hotel Nacional. Overlooking the Malecón promenade, everyone from Frank Sinatra to ‘Lucky’ Luciano – who once held a mafia summit here – has passed through.
Away from the increasingly busy Isle of Skye, the far reaches of the Inner Hebrides offer a glimpse of a long-forgotten Scotland – of bullish wildlife, crumbling priories and splendid isolation… WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS GRAEME GREEN
wanderlust.co.uk July/August 2019 29
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SECRET
CHAD
26
EXPLORE
YELLOWSTONE NP, USA
We talk to
HOT SPRINGS
ETERNAL From herds of bison to the elusive wolf, steaming geysers to diamond dust, Yellowstone National Park is a year-round destination, but in winter the few visitors get this wildlife-rich wonderland all to themselves WORDS MARTIN SYMINGTON
INTERVIEW
DANCE Awed of the
in be people gather nomadic Wodaa young October, the festival at which love Around early ol – a unique win h the night to n Chad for Gerew south-wester dance throug STRATTON themselves and APHS MARK & PHOTOGR men beautify
ICON OF TRAVELL TRAVE TRA SIR MICHAEL PALIN Comedy legend, actor and the man who changed TV travel shows for ever – we talk to Sir Michael Palin, winner of our Icon of Travel award, about 30 years on the road…
WORDS
INTERVIEWER LYN HUGHES PHOTOGRAPHS SEAMUS RYAN
34 wanderlust.co.uk April 2019
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SRI SRI LA LA TRIP PLANNER
Big wildlife encounters. Historic rail journeys. Ancient culture. There’s a reason
84 wanderlust.co.uk April 2020
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ANKA ANKA WORDS EMMA BOYLE
why this resilient island keeps winning gongs – here’s how to explore its wonders
Gone fishing
Traditional stilt fisherman wait on the water at sunset in Galle
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Mannar
SRI LANKA ⊳
Nilaveli
The culture trip
Rock of ages
Sigiriya, the ancient rock fortress, is nearly
Trincomalee 200m high and served as a monastery before becoming the site of a royal residence around 500BC; (bottom left) Buddhas at Dambulla’s caves
Best for: Archaeology, culture & history Wilpattu NP
Anuradhapura Anuradhapura
Vakarai
Alankula Beach
Minneriya NP
Sigiriya Dambulla
Anamaduwa
0
20km
Kalkudah
Polonnaruwa
Pasikuda
Tonigala
Batticaloa Kandy
Colombo
K n u c k le Ra nge
opens to avoid the heat and coach party queues, or scale Pidurangala rock, opposite, for views of Sigiriya’s giant lion paws. Not to be outdone, Dambulla’s cave temples glow in the late afternoon light. Wind your trip up in an eco-lodge in Anamaduwa Kandy (themudhouse.lk), ringed by rocky outcrops, rice fields and lotusNuwara strewn lakes. From here, visit Eliyasites Yapahuwa archaeological Bedulla and Dambadeniya (both former royal capitals), the rock temple at Mulegama and then Tonigala’s Demodara 30m-long rock inscriptions (the longest of its kind in Asia). ⊳
s
DURATION 10-14 days tuk-tuk and travel to the outskirts ROUTE Kandy • Polonnaruwa • of the city to visit three intricately Dambulla • Sigiriya • carved, historic devales Matale Anuradhapura • Anamaduwa (sacred shrines) at Embekke, WHY DO IT? To tick off five Lankatilake and Gadaladeniya Dambadeniya of Sri Lanka’s eight UNESCO In the dry-zone plains some World Heritage sites. three hours north of Kandy lie the origins of Sri Lankan Kandy was the last kingdom to civilisation – vast, ancient cities Kadugannawa fall into British hands in 1815. with man-made tanks, graceful Busy by day yet ghostly quiet stupas and carved moonstones by evening, it’s popularly lying partly excavated beneath visited for its gilt-roofed Tooth dusty forest. Anuradhapura and Temple and the Botanical Polonnaruwa’s ancient ruins are COLOMBO Gardens flanking Peradeniya extensive, and best explored by University’s leafy campus. bicycle (hire one from the Hatton Other sights are deserving too entrances). Visit former rocktop – do the ‘three-temple loop’ by fortress Sigiriya as soon as it
Batticaloa Internationa Airport Gal Oya NP Akkaraipattu
Ella
Pattipola
Arugam Bay
Haputale
Sinharaja Forest
N D I A N
O C EA N AWL; Dreamstime
Dalawella Beach
Habaraduwa Weligama
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Yala NP
Bundala NP Kahandamodara Beach Rekawa Beach Mawella Beach
Galle
88 wanderlust.co.uk April 2020
Udawalawe National NP
Tangalle
Mirissa
Mirissa Beach Dondra Head 28/02/2020 12:08
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Next Issue ON SALE 16 APRIL
The
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GALAPAGOS 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, discover the UNESCOlisted archipelago renowned for its unique ecosystem
AWL
Plus
∞ 7 great island-hopping destinations ∞ Spice Islands, Indonesia ∞ Brittany’s Wild West ∞ Guernsey vs Jersey ∞ World Guide Awards shortlist
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