August September 2022 - issue 222

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Taking The Road Less Travelled Since 1993

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WONDROUS USA

URBAN ESCAPES • YELLOWSTONE AT 150 • WILDLIFE HOTSPOTS Shackleton’s South Georgia Ticino Vibrant Bogotá New Zealand The untamed Azores New Marrakech Micronesia Jordan’s Bedouin

VIEWFINDER

Río Lagartos, Yucatán, Mexico Photographer: Claudio Contreras One of the great wildlife spectacles of Mexico is Yucatán’s Río Lagartos Biosphere Reserve. Every year, some 30,000 Caribbean flamingos gather here for nesting season (Mar– Jun), settling on the estuary in great luminous pink clouds.

Here they build sandcastle-like mounds to keep their eggs warm, stalking the shallow salty water for the brine shrimp that makes up the bulk of their diet. By September, the birds tend to have moved further down the estuary, but that just means longer, more scenic boat trips to find them as you chug deeper into the dense labyrinth of mangroveentangled islands. When you do reach the colony, the first thing the strikes you is the colour. Newborn chicks emerge as grey balls of fluff; they only acquire this rich, deep pink as adults by virtue of the pigmented algae they ingest.

Certainly, shots such as this make you realise why it’s worth the effort to find them – and perhaps also why the collective noun for these regal-looking birds is a ‘flamboyance’. © Claudio Contreras/Nature Picture Library

Al Balad, Jeddah, Saudi Arabia

Photographer: Matthieu Salvaing The beating heart of Jeddah is its UNESCO-listed Al Balad neighbourhood, celebrated in this new book by James Parry. It was here that wealthy merchants commissioned lavish homes, building them ever higher because the old city walls (now long gone) meant they couldn’t expand outwards. Today, visitors stroll beneath its soaring tower houses craning upwards at the intricate and colourful rawashin (latticed balcony windows).

But even these are in danger. Despite attempts to preserve Al Balad over the decades, many of its buildings now lean heavily, so an ongoing project geared at saving those in the worst condition is welcome. With the country’s visa-onarrival scheme now reopened, we can’t wait to explore this historic area knowing that its future has finally been secured. © Matthieu Salvaing. Jeddah Al-Balad

by James Parry (Assouline; £70) is out now; eu.assouline.com

VIEWFINDER

VIEWFINDER

The Red Sea, Saudi Arabia Photographer: Jeanette Hägglund For all that the opening up of Saudi Arabia teased travellers with the possibility of visiting Nabataean ruins and mud-built cities, we were just as excited to dive into new stretches of the Red Sea. Egypt’s share of this coral-filled inlet has long been cherished by divers; the chance to now explore reefs across the water was a prospect not to be missed. One surprising upshot since then has been that, with the development of the Saudi coast, new discoveries are being made: a giant 600-year-old coral colony was recently found off Al Waquadi Island. Steps are also being taken to protect these waters, something that Christopher Smith has touched on in his book, Red Sea: The Saudi Coast. The restoration of miles of coastal mangroves and the creation of the country’s first biosphere reserve at Farasan Island are helping to preserve the sea for everyone. © Jeanette Hägglund. Red Sea: The Saudi Coast

by Christopher Smith (Assouline; £70) is out now; eu.assouline.com

SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL

Mothering earth Holly Tuppen explores how travel can support one of the world’s greatest climate crisis mitigation tools: empowering women

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ack in 2020, the independent climate research recruits also help shape itineraries, ensuring that they organisation Project Drawdown listed empow- support the needs (including those of women) of local ering women and girls in developing countries communities in the long term. as the second of 76 solutions for curbing global Large travel businesses are showing leadership too. warming. The project estimates that providing Through its non-profit partner, Planeterra, G Adventures girls’ education and family planning could decrease carbon invests in community projects, including several involved dioxide equivalent emissions by 68.9 gigatonnes by 2050. in gender equality. In one of its most popular destinaIt makes perfect sense when you consider the ripple tions, Peru, trips support a Women’s Weaving Cooperative effect of access to education, family planning and birth owned by 46 local women and positively impacting 440 control, as slower population growth relieves stress on local people. Similarly, tour operator Trafalgar’s new ecosystems and reduces emissions. The report also found Women’s Only Tours invite guests to meet and support that women in rural areas are more likely to farm sustain- female makers, producers and entrepreneurs, such as ably, cultivating a greater variety of crops that support Marta Cuccia, a fourth-generation weaver in Perugia, biodiversity and are resilient to climate change, rather Italy, and the Iraq Al-Amir Women’s Cooperative, which than planting monocrops purely for profit. makes pottery, soap and fabrics in Jordan.

Alessandra Alonso, managing director of Women in Hotels can also facilitate meaningful change. On the Travel, an organisation that both tiny island of Sumba in Indonetrains and supports disadvantaged sia, Maringi Ecolodge doubles “If you want to have women to fill multiple roles in the up as a hotel school, training hospitality industry, explains: locals to ensure they benefit from a positive impact, “Women, globally, not only sit at the island’s burgeoning tourseeking experiences ism. A recent graduate, Angeline the heart of communities but are educators. They teach children that empower women is Lamunde, sums up its benefits nicely: “Previously I was afraid of about the impact of the climate a great place to start” dreaming, but now I’m a person crisis and the importance of respecting our planet. It is imposdreaming big!” And in London, sible to divorce female empowerment and inclusion from Inhabit Hotels works with Women in Travel to offer disadsustainable development.” vantaged female jobseekers a four-week placement and When you consider the role that travel can play in making mentoring, an invaluable opportunity for refugees, immia positive impact, seeking experiences that empower grants or single mothers struggling to find work. women is an excellent place to start. As with all responsible Lastly, over in Sri Lanka, on the wild, coastal edge of tourism, look for empowerment and long-term thinking Yala National Park, housekeeper Thushari Priyangika is rather than handouts.There are certainly plenty of options. enjoying her new role at the green-minded hotel Jetwing Social enterprise tour operator Eternal Landscapes Yala. “This job means the world to me, as my husband Mongolia is a beautiful example of what’s possible. lost his job during the pandemic. Now I am the sole Having spotted how difficult it is for women to get on breadwinner,” she explained. Thushari’s job is part of the ‘circuit’ of guides that dominate tours in Mongolia, Jetwing’s new drive to provide roles for middle-aged Eternal Landscapes runs a free training programme for women eager to pursue new careers post-pandemic and Mongolian women seeking work in tourism. Whether post-child-rearing. So far, the hotel group, which operjoining the training to find economic independence, ates throughout Sri Lanka, has provided training and learn new skills or gain confidence, Eternal Landscapes employment to 20 women. It’s one step among many is proud to say that all its guides are female. These keen heading in the right direction.

Girl power Tours supporting female-led businesses in places such as rural Peru (top) and Mongolia (bottom left) offer travellers a chance to help local entrepreneurs hit hard by the pandemic and the economic downturn

REALITY CHECK: POST-PANDEMIC STRUGGLES

Financing women through our travel choices is even more critical as destinations recover from the economic after-effects of the Covid-19 pandemic. As Zina Bencheikh, managing director of EMEA for Intrepid, explains: “The pandemic disproportionately impacted women working in travel because many of them work in informal roles and have no access to government support.” Intrepid’s ‘Women’s Expeditions’ is just one example of a trip offering local women not just financial support but making a meaningful connection – and there are others out there.

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JOURNAL Empowering women through travel

HELPING AFRICA’S WOMEN Work is being done across Africa to empower women to work in travel. We shine a light on a handful of the businesses and foundations shaking up the stereotypes.

Female guides

Recognising that women are under-represented in the scores of expedition leaders ascending Mount Kilimanjaro, tour operator Exodus Travels has set up the Mountain Lioness Scholarship, which enables ten women to graduate as mountain guides each year.

All-women camp

Working life is dominated by men in Tanzania, particularly in rural areas and in the tourism sector.

By becoming Africa’s first all-women-run safari camp, the Serengeti-set Dunia (asiliaafrica.com) not only provides an opportunity to the 23 Tanzanian women it employs, but challenges the wider industry at large.

Alamy; Conservation South Luangwa

Janet Sakala is a 35-year-old ranger working for Conservation South Luangwa’s (CSL) K9 Unit. She tells us why having the opportunity to become a ranger in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park changed her life.

“I became a ranger because of my love for nature.

I have wanted to protect Zambia’s wildlife since childhood… but I lost my parents when I was 15 years old, and life was never the same again. Everything changed, to the extent that my sister, brother and I could not go to school for some time. Fortunately, things went back to normal when I started working for CSL. After spotting that they were looking for new recruits, I was selected for a three-month paramilitary training course.

I am now the household breadwinner and able to support my relatives. I am one of CSL’s eight K9 Unit detection dog handlers. We are a special team because of how unique our work is. Thanks to the dogs’ sense of smell, we can detect illegal wildlife products, such as bushmeat, animal skins and ivory, no matter how well hidden they may be. What may take humans hours or days to find, the dogs sniff out in seconds. This makes us one of the most effective anti-poaching teams working in the area. I am so proud of this work.”

We spoke to Janet via Holly Budge, founder of World Female Ranger Week (worldfemalerangerweek.org), which salutes women working to protect nature.

Anti-poaching

In 2019, the Zeitz Foundation launched East Africa’s first All-Women AntiPoaching Ranger Academy at Segera Conservancy in Kenya. To date, 27 female rangers have passed the intensive training.

Girls’ education

Some 83% of women in rural Morocco are illiterate.

Most never had access to schooling, which is why Education for All (run

by Intrepid’s foundation) arranges safe boarding and nutritional meals for girls to attend school beyond their primary years. So far, 50 of its students have enrolled in further education.

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WANDERSLEEPS

New Zealand’s green stays Whether going off-grid in a glass pod, staying on a working farm or living among the trees, these eco-friendly escapes will get you back to nature Reviewed by Gareth Clark

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JOURNAL New Zealand

NEST TREE HOUSES, WAITAKI, SOUTH ISLAND Hidden among the branches of a hilltop forest overlooking the Hakataramea Valley lies a treehouse stay that feels more like a boutique escape. Floor-to-ceiling windows stare out across the valley, a cedar bathtub sits snugly on the outdoor deck and a private treetop sauna offers a dash of off-grid decadence at this adults-only retreat. There’s also plenty nearby to keep you busy, with farm and vineyard tours affording a taste of the area’s rural charms. And come nightfall, you can just lie back and contemplate your place in the universe – the site lies on the edge of Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve. This summer also saw the owners open a second treehouse, so you’re now spoilt for choice. Treehouses from £251pn, including breakfast; nesttreehouses.com

Touching the stars Nest Tree Houses lies on the edge of a Dark Sky Preserve, and on a clear night you can make out constellations unique to the Southern Hemisphere

Cindy Mottelet; Cross Hill Lodge; Fold in the Map

CROSS HILL LODGE AND DOMES, LAKE HAWEA, SOUTH ISLAND Plush geodomes scatter the shoreline of Hawea, one of the lesser-visited lakes wrapping Wanaka. It’s certainly a setting designed to charm the camera lens, thanks to the area’s U-shaped valleys carved tens of thousands of years ago by departing glaciers. The domes offer plenty of home comforts, with floor-to-ceiling windows, plush double beds and even a small kitchenette. It’s a cosy affair, and the camp’s lodge even dishes up meals fresh from the farm. A few relics of the area’s gold-mining past survive on the slopes above, but the appeal here is nature. It’s out paddleboarding on the quiet lake waters or relaxing outside in a wood-fired outdoor hot tub that Cross Hill earns its restorative reputation. Domes from £205pn, ⊲ including breakfast; crosshill.co.nz

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DISPATCHES

JOURNAL Bogotá

In the glare of El Dorado While Europeans once flocked to Bogotá for its links to a mythical city of gold, the lively Colombian capital shines for a different reason these days and is making waves with its glittering cultural and gastronomic scenes Words & photographs George Kipouros

DISPATCHES

Byway to the skies Colorado’s Rockies are a land of soaring peaks, wild festivals and gold-rush towns turned idyllic mountain escapes – and through it all runs some of the most dramatic stretches of road in the USA Words Aaron Millar

JOURNAL Colorado

DISPATCHES

JOURNAL Marrakech

Rocking the kasbah Marrakech went from overtourism to empty streets as two years of Covid-19 lockdowns took their toll. With visitors now returning, is it time to ponder how the future of travel here should look?

Words Alice Morrison

SOUTH GEORGIA

A JOURNEY of

ENDURANCE

A century after explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton died while moored off the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia, we retrace the steps of his most heroic adventure Words & photographs Mark Stratton

SOUTH GEORGIA

AZORES

AZORES

A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE The Azores might belong to Portugal, but for all this volcanic archipelago feels similar to its mainland cousin, there is a wildness to its landscape, geology and history that sets it apart Words Martin Symington

YELLOWSTONE & THE GREAT AMERICAN WEST

YELLOWSTONE & THE GREAT AMERICAN WEST

BACK TO WHERE IT ALL BEGAN

In 1872, a vast swathe of Wyoming, Montana and Idaho was set aside to create the first national park. Today, Yellowstone is more than just a wild gem – it’s the story of US conservation Words Lynn Houghton

Sheridan as canyons, massifs and mesas blur in the rearview mirror. Be sure to pit stop at the city of Buffalo in the eastern foothills before continuing on to the South Dakota border via the Devil’s Tower National Monument.

This giant stone monolith (264m) resembles a huge tree stump wrenched from the earth by volcanic caprice 50 million years ago. Its nearby prairie dog colony sits at the extreme other end of the fuzzy-adorable scale, and visits make for a charming finale to the trip, either on foot or by car.

SOUTH DAKOTA

The Black Hills

Deadwood to Rapid City (via Wind Cave NP) to Badlands NP: 315km

While none of Yellowstone NP crosses into South Dakota, the state’s Great Plains share more than a spiritual connection. And west of the Missouri River, where any road trip worth its salt begins, the state’s prairie valleys twist themselves in wild geological knots.

Rapid City makes a great base, nestled between the hoodoos and prairie dogs of Badlands NP and the Black Hills. The latter once filled with prospectors in the 1800s, as gold-rush towns cropped up like small pox. Even today, Deadwood still channels the Old West spirit in its colourful saloons.

History bleeds into the land here.

Towns like Crazy Horse and Custer recall key figures of the Black Hills War of 1876 between the US army and the Lakota Sioux and Northern Cheyenne. Driving Custer State Park’s Wildlife Loop Road even shows what the area might have looked like back then as you scan for its 1,300 bison.

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Don’t leave without seeing the big sites. Wind Cave NP is one of the USA’s oldest parks and threaded with 240km of tunnels. And you can’t visit the Mount Rushmore State without seeing its namesake monument. The sight of it still takes your breath away.

NORTH DAKOTA

Pay your respects

Bismarck to Theodore Roosevelt NP (via Enchanted Highway): 320km

Just like its neighbour to the south, the landscape of North Dakota edges into wilder territory as you head west.

But there is plenty of history too.West of state capital Bismarck lies North Dakota’s oldest state park, Fort Abraham Lincoln, which resides on the historic territory of the Mandan people. From there, continue on Interstate 94 with a detour south at Gladstone along the Enchanted Highway – 32km of scrap-metal art installations.

After looping back north on Route 84, take a slight detour west to Medora before you hit Theodore Roosevelt NP. This tiny town is best known for the Burning Hills Amphitheatre, home to a neverending outdoor revue show that plays out against a natural backdrop of rolling plains. It’s quite the sight.

Beyond lies North Dakota’s great wilderness. Roosevelt was dubbed the ‘conservation president’ and his legacy included over 900,000 sq km of land set aside for national forests, monuments, parks and preserves. His eponymous national park is no less impressive. The best way to pay your respects is by glimpsing its Painted Canyon or driving a 77km loop around the Little Missouri Badlands. ⊲

How the West was found (top) After gold was discovered in the southern Black Hills in 1874, it set the wheels in motion for one of the great gold rushes.

In 1876, miners started pouring into the northern Black Hills, whereupon they came across a gulch full of dead trees and a creek filled with gold. Thus the town of ‘Deadwood’ was born and christened

Illustrated map: Scott Jessop; images: Shutterstock

YELLOWSTONE & THE GREAT AMERICAN WEST

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CALL OF THE WILD

The USA isn’t just a melting pot of people – it is also home to myriad wild species spread across all 50 states. You just need to know where to look…

Words Graeme Green

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verything is bigger in America; even its wild spaces are ‘supersized’, with forests that seem to go on forever and vast tracts of desert, canyons and mountains that stretch all the way to the horizon.

Skyscraping American cities have a hold on many people’s imaginations, but it’s these natural landscapes, including the national parks, refuges and national monuments, that have called me back time and again over the years.

Today, around 12% of land in the USA is protected, alongside 26% of its oceans. Shortly after arriving in office, President Joe Biden committed to raising the percentage of conserved land and ocean

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to 30% by 2030. It’s a welcome idea. These wild places are home to a fascinating array of creatures, including more than 400 species of mammal, around 800 bird species and about 1,100 types of fish.

People may say there’s nothing more American than apple pie, but it’s the bald eagle, a symbol of freedom and strength, that the Founding Fathers chose to represent the United States. Wolf, bison and bear are all part of the American psyche and culture, from film and literature to Native American folklore. And it’s not just the West that’s wild: remarkable species are found across all 50 states, from the ’gator-filled swamps of Florida to the prairies of South Dakota.

Here are 15 incredible creatures to spend time with in the United States, including the best places to see them.

USA WILDLIFE

DO RIGHT BY WILDLIFE

Documentaries such as Tiger King and Blackfish helped lift the lid on the fact that many experiences offered to tourists often mean misery and harm to the animals involved. Always stop to think whether paying to take part in a ‘fun’ holiday experience is likely to cause suffering or contribute to negative practices, especially if animals are kept in cramped or unhealthy conditions. Avoid situations where captive animals are forced to pose or perform for

tourists. As a general rule, it’s best to see animals only in the wild or in reputable rehab centres and sanctuaries. With the latter, do your research in advance to make sure you’re visiting a respected facility and not just a money-spinner. In the wild, keep your distance and take measures to make sure you and the animals you are watching are safe: avoid keeping food in your car or tent and don’t take selfies with bison, bears or moose because they don’t always play nice.

SEA OTTER Is this the world’s cutest animal? It’s certainly a contender, especially when mothers float on their backs carrying fuzzy pups in their arms. Sea otters are the smallest marine mammal in North America.They have thick fur, which is handy when you spend your life in cold water.They’re also able to use ‘tools’, breaking open mussels and clams with stones that they often store in pocket-like folds of skin under their arms. Sadly, this animal is listed by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) as endangered, although protection efforts are underway.

Where to see: Monterey, California, has high concentrations of southern sea otters. It’s possible to kayak alongside them on Elkhorn Slough, a wildlife-rich estuary, or spot otters in the water from Cannery Row, near the Monterey Bay Aquarium. They’re also seen in Morro Bay, Point Lobos State Reserve and other locations in California. Northern sea otters can be spotted in Resurrection Bay in Alaska and Olympic NP in Washington. ⊲

Previous spread: Alamy; this spread: Alamy

Keeping afloat (below) Sea otters are undeniably cute, but they also play a vital role in maintaining the ecology of the seas. These mammals have a wide diet and are especially fond of sea urchins, which can devastate kelp forests if their numbers are not kept in check

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ALLIGATOR Said to have first appeared around 84 million years ago, American alligators are living dinosaurs. Hunted to near extinction in the 1900s, their numbers have been steadily increasing since they were listed as an endangered species in 1967. Certainly, few animals have such a toothsome ‘smile’: an alligator’s jaws contain around 70 to 80 teeth at any one time, and these regrow as they wear and fall out – they can get through as many as 3,000 in a lifetime. With male ’gators measuring up to four and a half metres, their long, powerful tails help motor them through the water, making these fearsome reptiles effective hunters of fish, snakes, turtles, birds and land mammals, though they’re also known to snack on fruit.

Where to see: Take a guided boat tour of Florida’s Everglades NP; this is classic ’gator territory with over 200,000 living in the sprawling wetlands. But even that’s just a drop in the ocean compared with the wider state: some 1.5 million alligators live in Florida. They are also found across North Carolina, eastern Texas and Georgia, with the latter’s Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge a good location for sightings. ⊲

USA WILDLIFE

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

SPRING

While its warm climate makes Florida a great year-round destination, each of its four seasons offers visitors a unique range of experiences. Running from March to May, spring brings balmy days, cooler nights and low humidity with a few showers, so it’s an excellent time to explore.

WILDLIFE

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GO WILD IN THE WETLANDS

tower for spotting birds. Expect to see snowy egrets and black-crowned night herons, along with dolphins and otters.

Florida is home to an estimated CAMP OUT WITH 600,000 acres of critical mangrove THE TURTLES habitat: coastal ecosystems stretching Spring is an ideal time to visit mostly along the shores of the Florida’s state parks for southern peninsula and some R&R or adventure.

Florida Keys. Weedon Grayton Beach State Island Preserve spans Park on the Florida more than 3,000 acres Five of the world’s seven species of marine turtle can Panhandle greets you of Tampa Bay and St be found in Florida’s seas: with powder-white Petersburg, offering loggerhead, sand, grass-clad an opportunity to green, leatherback, dunes and a trio of rare canoe or kayak thrilling Kemps’ Ridley and coastal dune lakes, a wetlands and wildlifehawksbill. phenomenon found in just rich mangrove tunnels on four countries. This is also a the South Paddling Trail, with or nesting site for loggerhead and green without a guide. Also a key spot on the turtles, which come ashore to lay their Great Florida Birding and Wildlife Trail, eggs from May until the end of October. the preserve has good hiking paths The park’s array of shorebirds also and boardwalks, plus an observation

Fun fact

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A wild world (clockwise from top) Florida’s Everglades is one of the largest wetlands in the world; dolphins in Crystal River Reserve State Park; Dry Tortugas National Park’s Fort Jefferson was finished in 1875 and makes a dramatic backdrop for snorkelling adventures; the state’s black bears can be very elusive

makes it popular with birders. And if you want to stay a while, you can camp overnight under the starriest of skies, then watch the sun rise over the Gulf of Mexico.

YOUR BEAR NECESSITIES 3KNOW

The Florida black bear is one of the state’s most exciting native residents, and a sighting at a safe distance makes

Alamy; Peter W Cross; Patrick Farrell; Florida DEP; VISIT FLORIDA

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE a thrilling addition to any trip. Before European settlement, black bears ranged across Florida’s mainland, islands and keys, but today they occupy just 49% of their historic range.

Naturally wary, they may be hard to spot, but Ocala National Forest has a healthy population of them. And despite being close to Florida’s theme park capital, Orlando, Wekiwa Springs State Park is also a regular hangout for black bears, with the highest number of sightings occurring in May. Be sure to head to their visitor centres before you hike or camp; they will have the latest information on bear safety, the weather and the trails.

ADVENTURE

FLORIDA’S CORAL REEF 4SNORKEL

whether you’re up for snorkelling, diving or prefer to stay dry on a glassbottom boat tour. There are canoes, paddle boards and kayaks to rent for adventures above the waves, too. Go with a local guide to learn more about the sea creatures you will spot.

Florida’s coral reef stretches around HIKE THROUGH DEER 563 linear kilometres, with the northern COUNTRY tip starting at the St Lucie Inlet Preserve Spring is a fine time to hike in State Park and stretching Florida, making the most of southwest to the Dry the bright, sunny days. The Tortugas National Park, East Central Regional 113km offshore from Key Trail, inland from the West. As the largest With 2,170km of laidback town of New coral reef system in sweeping sandy beaches and bays, Florida has the Smyrna Beach, offers the continental United longest coastline in the a relaxed hike along States, it’s home to continental USA. a paved path through myriad fish and marine woodlands, where lucky species, including turtles, walkers may run into wild deer dolphins, rays, sharks, more and birds. Along the coast, kayakers of than 45 species of stony corals and all levels can explore the mangroves 35 soft corals. and wetlands on the marked Mosquito John Pennekamp Coral Reef Lagoon Paddling Trail, looking out for State Park, near Key Largo, is one of dolphins and West Indian manatees. the best places to access the reef,

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Fun fact

For more information, go to: visitflorida.com

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE polydactyl cats (with six toes on each paw) descended from those the author once owned. The annual Hemingway Days celebration in July marks the writer’s birthday with events, including a lookalike contest at Sloppy Joe’s Bar.

5GET ARTY

Florida is bursting with art. There are many galleries across the state, including the Pérez Art Museum Miami, the Dalí Museum in St. Petersburg and Tampa Museum of Art. Each houses world-class collections. In Tampa, browse galleries of Greek and Roman antiquities, explore temporary exhibitions of contemporary painting and photography, or visit the riverfront sculpture garden. In Orlando, see the Art of the Ancient Americas Collection, while Miami has 20th-century and contemporary works from the Americas, Africa and Western Europe.

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COOL DOWN AT A MUSEUM

Chill out in the sunshine state’s museums. In Tampa, don’t miss the Museum of Science and Industry where

you can get hands-on with more than 100 activities, such as the Mission: Moonbase exhibition which has been set up in collaboration with NASA to help people understand moon travel in a fun and interactive way. The Ringling Museum of the American Circus (now known as The Ringling) opened in 1948 in Sarasota; it became the first to showcase the exciting history of this much-loved and enduring form of entertainment. Housed in the Venetian-inspired Cà d’Zan waterfront mansion – the former home of American entrepreneur and circus owner John Ringling – its collection has expanded to include costumes, photographs, posters, props and parade wagons.

ADVENTURE

THE REEFS IN JACKSONVILLE 7SCUBA

Florida has endless attractions beneath the waves, and summer is the perfect time to seek them out, with July water temperatures averaging 29°C (84°F). Jacksonville is the state’s most populated city, but has a host

Fun fact

American playwright Tennessee Williams first arrived in Key West in 1941 and later owned a house on Duncan Street.

From big top to big thrills (clockwise from bottom left) The Pérez Art Museum Miami relocated to the city’s Museum Park nearly a decade ago; The Ringling is filled with circus history; the museum’s Venetian Gothic-style home; sampling the waters of Rainbow Springs

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of natural wonders on its doorstep, including 35km of beautiful beaches and a subaquatic wonderland beyond. Having partnered with marine conservation organisation TISIRI (Think It, Sink It, Reef It), the city has helped to sustain vibrant, flourishing reefs by intentionally sinking boats and planes along the offshore continental shelf to create a thriving marine habitat. Extraordinary sites range in depth from 15m to 30m, allowing new and experienced divers to explore the submerged wrecks of naval tugs, yachts and more.

IN A NATURAL SPRING 8SWIM There are over 700 natural coldwater springs throughout Florida,

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with gushing giants including TAKE FLIGHT OVER CENTRAL FLORIDA Wakulla, Manatee and Silver Springs The forests and waterways of Central discharging more than 65 million Florida look pretty spectacular from the gallons of water every day. These ground, so imagine the view from waters bubble up from above. Experts at Wallaby the limestone Floridan Ranch, a hang-gliding aquifer and achieve school near Orlando, a fairly consistent The bald eagle will take you up into temperature of 20°C has been the national the air on a Tandem to 22°C (68°F to 72°F) emblem of the United States since 1782; it Discovery Flight, year-round, which also has great spiritual teaching you how to makes for a perfect significance for Native control the glider before dip. A great way to Americans. guiding you safely back splash in the springs is down to earth. People of at one of the 15 state all ages can give it a try, and the parks. Swim or snorkel best times to fly are early morning or at Wakulla Springs State Park, near late afternoon. Visitors can also enjoy Tallahassee, or take a dunk the pool, climbing wall, and hiking and in north-west Florida’s Ponce de León biking trails through the woods.

Springs State Park.

For more information, go to: visitflorida.com

Alamy; Kevin McGeever; Scott Sporleder

Fun fact

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

For more information, go to: visitflorida.com

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE arts, drawing over 300,000 spectators who party long into March.

A CIVIL WAR BATTLE 5WATCH

The Olustee Battlefield Historic State Park near Lake City is the oldest state park in Florida and preserves the battlefield and artefacts from one of the state’s largest Civil War conflicts.

The Battle of Olustee took place on 20 February 1864, and each winter it is recreated by thousands of participants who gather at the park. More than 10,000 troops fought for five hours in the battle, resulting in 1,861 Union and 946 Confederate casualties before the Union forces retreated to Jacksonville, where they stayed until the end of the war. A 1.5km trail with interpretive signs follows the line of the battle. You can also watch a documentary about the reenactment which is shown daily in the interpretive centre.

THE HOLIDAY SWITCH 6FLICK

ADVENTURE

7CATCH A WAVE

Florida’s oldest city, St Augustine, Florida’s East Coast has some becomes a twinkling tinseltown of the best surfing spots in the US, during the Night of Lights festival, with waves to excite everyone from when 20 blocks of the historic beginners to pros. Located on the district are illuminated with sparkly Space Coast, near Cape Canaveral, white lights heralding the holidays.

Cocoa Beach is home to 11-time World From late November until the end Champion – and arguably the world’s of January, landmarks including the best surfer – Kelly Slater. An hour Bridge of Lions and the Lighthouse north lies New Smyrna Beach, which and Maritime Museum are aglow. Old is known as a ‘wave magnet’. It has the Town Trolley’s Famous Night state’s most consistent surf break, and of Lights Tour departs daily during this it’s a good spot for beginners, while period for evening spins around the Ponce Inlet is the place to go for city, while Old City Helicopters offers larger swells. dazzling views from the air EXPLORE THE and boat cruises give sailors the EVERGLADES chance to admire the lights (and The Everglades, a national park reflections) from the sea. The since 1947, is a UNESCO region also hosts annual World Heritage Site holiday boat parades as well as an in Palm Valley and International Biosphere Matanzas Bay. Founded in 1565, St Reserve and a Augustine was the first place in the continental Wetland of USA to be permanently International settled by Europeans.

Importance. The largest subtropical wilderness reserve in North America supports an incredible array of life. Alligators, crocodiles and Florida panthers roam its forests and swamps, while turtles, manatees and dolphins are found in the waters surrounding the Ten Thousand Islands. Celebrating its 75th anniversary as a national park in December 2022, the Everglades’ winter season is a great time to visit, with low humidity and fewer mosquitoes. Zoom across ‘the river of grass’ by airboat, join a kayak eco-trip

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Fun fact

Natural world (clockwise from bottom-left) Paddling the Nine Mile Pond canoe trail through the Everglades; riding the waves off New Smyrna Beach; the Lightner Museum in St Augustine echoes the city’s Spanish architectural roots; visitors gaze out across the Everglades from the dizzying Shark Valley Observation Tower

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Fun fact

with Everglades Area Tours, or go off-road with Captain Steve’s Swamp Buggy Adventures.

The 30 barrier islands and inlets that run along the Florida peninsula’s Gulf Coast help to protect the mainland from storms and waves.

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SAIL IN PENSACOLA 9SET

Selected as the winter training ground for the American Magic 2024 America’s Cup team, Pensacola is one of the best sailing regions in the USA. Located near the Alabama border in north-west Florida, its white sand-bordered bay sees yachts zipping along on emeraldgreen sees. The nearby Gulf Islands National Shore has myriad keys, dunes, lagoons, barrier islands and inlets that offer protected year-round boating.

Perdido Key Beach frequently makes ‘Florida’s Best Beaches’ lists, and this region is a dream destination to learn to sail, or to charter a yacht and crew. Private or group boat trips are available, too, and whichever ship you sail, make sure to look out for dolphins.

For more information, go to: visitflorida.com

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USA URBAN ESCAPES

USA Urban Escapes We all know the big US cities. But what about the rest? Discover Indigenous cultures, European relics, revolutionary history and incredible art and food in some of America’s overlooked stars

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USA URBAN ESCAPES

uly marks 246 years since US independence, and you could argue that Europe still doesn’t quite get the United States. You can see it in the way we travel. New York. San Francisco.

Los Angeles. Big cities, famous sights and Hollywood – that’s what we tend to focus on.

But that isn’t really America; it’s just part of it. Some would argue the least authentic part.

This is a huge country, and more often than not the places we fly over are invariably some of the most interesting: Midwestern industrial hubs reinventing themselves through art and culture; Southwestern border towns blending Spanish, Indigenous and Mexican heritage; New England enclaves where the aristocracy of the Gilded Age once thumbed their noses and flexed their wallets in glittering Italianate piles to rival any in Europe. There are 50 stars on the flag for a reason. Limiting yourself to a handful of states has never made much sense.

We can’t help but think that a tiny amount of snobbery – innate in all of us – comes into play. For example, most wouldn’t hesitate to seek out some medieval French hill town, far from the big city; Instagram posts declaring it to be the new ‘this’, the next ‘that’ would inevitably follow.

Why doesn’t the same apply to the USA? In many cases there is just as much history, art and culture as you’ll find in some European backwaters. There are colonial towns, Pueblo adobe villages, pioneer tales, revolutionary battlefields – heck, Hawaii even had its own monarchy. There is plenty to see and a wealth of stories to discover; it’s just that more often than not we only seem to accept the US for its national parks or its metropolises. Why not the rest of it?

The details in between are often far more juicy.

The Northeast is the perfect example. There are many different states within easy reach of heaving New York City, from tiny Rhode Island, where towns like Newport dazzle with 19th-century mansions, to history-rammed Massachusetts, where you might explore the ‘witch country’ around Salem, to the spruce forests and rocky coast of Maine. Any would make a fascinating detour for a few days. There are stories on top of stories here.

Then there are those cities that demand your attention.The Deep South is full of them. Complex places, like Charleston and Savannah, where the horrors of the slave plantations funded antebellum towns as delicate and fragile as they are beautiful; and where museums and institutions have finally started to ask the right questions and bring to light the tales of those left out of the history books. It’s the same for those cities where the dawn of the Civil Rights movement met with such fury and resistance; now their troubled backstories are part of what makes them special, as visitors trace trails that narrate a difficult past.

In the West you’ll find plenty of towns where Indigenous heritage is more pronounced than that of the European colonists who took the land. There is nuance; the kind you find in a huge country that is more like 50 nations under one banner. Sure, in places like Anchorage, glaciers and grizzlies tend to be the focus. But the Alaskan city is more than just a jumping-off point – it has its own fascinating sights and vibrant Indigenous culture.

It’s time to reassess how we look at the USA.You might find that it opens the doors to more destinations than you could visit in a lifetime, but that’s rather the point: there are 50 stars and they all deserve a chance to shine.

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USA URBAN ESCAPES

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WORLD HERITAGE

Nan Madol

Theories abound as to who built Micronesia’s UNESCO-listed floating city – was it sorcerers, aliens, a ruthless dynasty? But the questions only make it more exciting, writes Mark Stratton

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everal years ago, a TV history channel featured known about them, although island oral history recounts Micronesia’s obscure archaeological wonder, the sudden appearance of twin sorcerers, Olishpa and Nan Madol, in a series called Ancient Aliens. Oloshpa, magicking blocks of basalt through the air The show wheeled out a string of historians to construct an altar on Temwen. Back in the corpo– more Indiana Jones than Lucy Worsley – real world, it is believed that the Saudeleurs arrived on who speculated how uncertainty Pohnpei and started building Nan Madol in the late 12th century. surrounding the floating city’s “Even if Nan Madol Their rule only ended after they origins in the western Pacific Ocean might suggest builders from were usurped in battle in 1628 by a leaves visitors with chief called Isokelekel, causing the another planet. questions, it’s It’s a tempting theory considering ceremonial status of Nan Madol to hard not to be wowed eventually fade into obscurity.

Nan Madol’s hard-to-reach locaStructurally, the complex spans tion. This large and sophisticated by its architectural ceremonial complex is constructed some 100 artificially created islets prowess” on a coral reef wrapping the tiny made up of platforms of basalt Temwen Island, which lies off the rock built atop the reef. Its lofty shores of Pohnpei, itself part of an archipelago in the walls enclose the Atlantis-like marine ruins of palaces, Federated States of Micronesia that is surrounded by mortuaries, workers’ residences, altars and temples within thousands of kilometres of ocean. That’s about as remote 60 hectares. These islets are divided by sea-filled wateras any UNESCO World Heritage-listed site gets. ways, so would have been navigable by boat. Western Even the likeliest creators of this floating city, the observers naturally lent it the sobriquet the ‘Venice of Saudeleur Dynasty, are somewhat mysterious. Little is the Pacific’; in Micronesian parlance, Nan Madol rather

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Built to last (this page; top) The vast hexagonal columns of basalt used to build Nan Madol are thought to have been mined on Pohnpei and transported to Temwen using rafts. It is said that the Saudeleur dynasty ruled over a population of 25,000 from within these walls

DISCOVER Micronesia

NEED TO KNOW Location: Temwen Island lies off the shores of Pohnpei, one of the larger islands in the Federated States of Micronesia.

Getting there: Reaching Pohnpei requires determination and deep pockets. Expect to be on a plane for 20 hours if flying from the UK. One option is via Tokyo, connecting to Guam on another four-hour flight. Thereafter, United Airlines (united.com) offer an ‘island-hopping’ service that connects to Pohnpei, a further 3–4 hours away, from Guam for around £500 return.

Getting around: Nan Madol can be approached by taxi, rental car or boat from Kolonia or Palikir, but do take a guide as the ruins are challenging to both interpret and navigate. Local accommodation should help arrange tours and transportation.

When to go: There’s no particular peak season because Pohnpei is pretty hot (27ºC) and wet year-round.

Accommodation: AirBnB has now arrived on the islands of Micronesia; otherwise, Mangrove Bay Hotel (mangrovebaypohnpei.com) has nice doubles with sea views from around £97 per night.

Further information: Visit micronesiatour.com

prosaically translates as ‘within the intervals’, which also defines the city by its intricate web of canals.

UNESCO lists Nan Madol as the earliest example in the Pacific of a huge-scale megalithic structure. Its design reflects the complex religious and social practices that operated within a system of paramount chiefs (known as Nahmwarki). It is speculated that, during the city’s heyday, up to 1,000 people may have inhabited its walls, including local chiefs and priests as well as all of their servants. Historians believe the Saudeleur rulers probably used it as a form of social control, keeping potential enemy chiefs across Pohnpei beneath their wing by housing them within the walls of the city.

It’s the air of mystery surrounding this civilisation that excites the few travellers that make it here. Getting to explore Nan Madol isn’t easy, and whether taking a boat or taxi from the main town of Kolonia, only a limited amount of the ruins are visitable amid the coastal mangroves. If a drone would be the best way to truly appreciate its scale and layout, a local guide is essential to help navigate, not least when wading or taking little canoes across the waterways.

Even if Nan Madol leaves visitors with more questions than answers, it’s hard not to be wowed by its architectural prowess. Its towering dark-maroon walls have been fashioned from columnar basalt, with blocks stacked in header and stretcher construction, where the outward-facing ends of carved stones sandwich others laid lengthwise.

These facades glisten under the heavy skies (Pohnpei is one of the wettest places on Earth) as local guides bring Nan Madol to life with stories of the Saudeleur worship of eels and of turtle sacrifices. The highlight is the imperious fortification of the royal mortuary on Nandauwas islet, where the walls are stacked nearly eight metres high.

If Nan Madol can be saved from being subsumed by the mangroves that threaten its preservation, its potential to reveal more secrets about an advanced, complex civilisation could be significant. In 2019, American researchers using an airborne LiDAR survey revealed a hitherto unknown and extensive irrigation and cultivation system that likely places the Saudeleur dynasty, in terms of wealth and importance, at the very heart of Pacific Ocean power. Who knows what else this city might eventually reveal if given time?

Into the unknown (this page; top– bottom) Parts of Nan Madol can be explored on foot, but a boat is the best way to get around; the city’s buildings rest on artificially created islets elevated above the water atop a reef

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SHORT BREAK MINI GUIDE

Ticino, Switzerland Amid the vineyards, lakes and Alpine peaks of southern Switzerland, the canton of Ticino dishes up a slice of Italian flair that few expect to encounter, writes Caroline Bishop villages whose traditional grey stone buildings are very different to the more typical wooden chalets seen elsewhere in the country, but just as charming.These hamlets, seemingly unchanged for centuries (those in the Val Bavona aren’t even on the electricity grid) have a unique history and character that is thankfully being preserved.

Corippo, the smallest village in Switzerland, has been turned into an albergo diffuso (‘scattered hotel’), following the Italian model of converting restored traditional villages into unique stays.

North of these valleys, the high alpine hiking trails of the Lepontine alps lead over to Bedretto and Airolo, from where the old Gotthard pass railway, opened in 1882, takes passengers through and over the mountains to the canton of Uri. Below it, buried some 2,000m deep in the rock, is the 57km Gotthard Base Tunnel, the world’s longest and deepest railway tunnel, which has provided a speedier north-south connection since 2016.

Southern Ticino, meanwhile, serves up the wine region of Mendrisiotto, characterised by charming villages and acres of vineyards producing mostly Merlot wine. Wine cellars offer tastings, while rustic restaurants known as grotti – natural rock caves once used as refrigeration stores – serve traditional Ticinese dishes, including polenta, minestrone, risotto and chestnut cake. It’s Switzerland, but not as you know it.

Ask a local “Locarno owes its centrality to Europe and the world to its film festival, one of the longest-serving anywhere, first held in 1946 and now in its 75th edition (Aug 3–13). The Piazza Grande, which can accommodate an audience of 8,000 people, transforms itself into an unparalleled movie theatre, a magical space that was chosen to represent creativity in Switzerland on the country’s 20-franc bill.”

Raphaël Brunschwig, managing director of the Locarno Film Festival

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46.3317° N, 8.8005° E

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hink of Switzerland and it’s the French and German-speaking regions that spring to mind first. However, the Italophone area of Ticino, bordering Italy to the south, is just as important a part of this diverse country, with a unique character, sunny disposition and Italian-influenced cuisine that is nevertheless innately Swiss.

Sharing Lake Maggiore and Lake Lugano with Italy,Ticino has a Mediterranean feel, with palm tree-lined lakeshore promenades in the towns of Locarno, Lugano and Ascona, along with some of the best beaches and warmest water in the country – this is one of Switzerland’s sunniest cantons, after all. Locarno’s vast Piazza Grande, a cobbled square on a scale to rival those in Spain and Italy, testifies to the outdoor culture of Ticino. Every August, a huge open-air cinema is set up here during the longstanding Locarno Film Festival, while markets, music festivals and food events, as well as numerous cafés and restaurants, animate the square year-round.

Yet this southern European character is coupled with scenery that is distinctly Swiss.

Funiculars and cable cars whisk visitors up to mountain summits, including Monte Brè and Monte Tamaro, for hiking and mountain biking.

To the north of Locarno, the wild and unspoiled Vallemaggia and Valle Verzasca offer rivers and gorges, peaceful swimming hollows and tiny

DISCOVER Switzerland

TICINO IN FIVE DAYS Day 1: Locarno

Alamy; Dreamstime; Locarno Film Festival

Wander through the narrow streets of the Città Vecchia (Old Town) before stopping for coffee in Piazza Grande. Nearby, a funicular ascends to Madonna del Sasso, an important pilgrimage site in Ticino dating from the 15th century. Explore the basilica, monastery and small museum, which look out over Locarno and Lake Maggiore far below. Back on the lakeshore, have a swim at Lido Locarno before dinner.

Day 2: Castles and salami

As one of Switzerland’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, Bellinzona’s three 13th-century castles testify to this area’s strategic importance on the north-south trade route. Walk between Castelgrande, Montebello

and Sasso Corbaro to explore their ramparts, towers and grounds.

In Montebello, have a go at making the area’s famous Ticinella salami, which is cured in the cool cellars of the castle.

Day 3: Rivers, dams and bridges

The tranquil Valle Verzasca is only a short drive north of Locarno but feels a world away. Walk across the 220m-high Contra Dam at Vogorno, which James Bond plunged off in the film Goldeneye (you can bungee jump here if you wish), and cool off in the translucent turquoise river water at Lavertezzo, whose Ponte dei Salti, a double-arched stone bridge, is a much-photographed symbol of Ticino.

Day 4: Lugano

Spend a morning discovering the street art in Ticino’s largest city, which has a thriving cultural scene. In the afternoon, take the funicular from Cassarate to Monte Brè (925m).

Explore the typical Ticinese village of Brè before hiking back down to the lakeshore at Gandria.

Day 5: Rails, mountains and bears

Head to the southern tip of Lake Lugano to catch the 130-year old rack railway from Capolago up to Monte Generoso (1,704m) for lunch in Ticinese architect Mario Botta’s Fiore di Pietra building. Later, take the path to the Bear’s Cave to see excavated remains from the lair of a cave bear, ⊲ now extinct for 20,000 years.

The high life (clockwise from far left) Locarno’s Piazza Grande was laid in 1825 with stone from the Maggia river; sunny Locarno is surrounded by lush mountains; the funicular that ascends to the summit of Monte Brè has operated since 1908; Castel Grande is one of a trio of UNESCOlisted fortifications in Bellinzona, and its defensive walls once ran to the banks of the Ticino River

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