Wanderlust Issue 155 Sample

Wanderlust Issue 155 (April 2015) Antarctica: including Falklands & South Georgia ♦ The Ultimate Bucket List ♦ Galápagos ♦ New Zealand ♦ India by train ♦ Pocket guides: Vietnam, Ushuaia, Essaouira

W i n!

T R AV E L M AG A Z I N E

A trip to Ant arc for two peo tica p worth £17,0 le 00!

See page 4

www.wanderlust.co.uk April 2015

Antarctica

Cross the Antarctic Circle, visit the Falklands, South Georgia and more

THE ULTIMATE BUCKET LIST

USA, Kilimanjaro, Cuba, Trans-Siberian express, Iceland, Machu Picchu & more...

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♦ Galápagos ♦ New Zealand ♦ India ♦ Morocco ♦ Ushuaia

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CONTENTS

Issue 155 April 2015

360˚ – NEED TO KNOW

nder 6 Viewfi to know this month...

14Need Go now 16Eat this...

18 5 minutes Dervla Murphy 20Have a wildwith... out!

22Know your...night Komodo NP 24 New Guinean tribesmen, a great grey owl and the Angkor of old

Have you missed out on the Inca Trail?

Head for the Sardinian capital, Cagliari, a hit for history-lovers Develop an addiction to the crowd-pleasing South Korean kimchi

The author tackles Israel and Palestine

Bucket-list-worthy UK adventures

Indonesia’s dragon-filled National Park

▲ Cover story

Ultimate 28 Wanderlust’s Bucket List

We’ve compiled a definitive list of must-dobefore-you-die travel experiences, from rafting the Grand Canyon to tracking a snow leopard and visiting an endangered tribe

■ Special feature

Travel Awards 107Readers’ – the results are in!

WIN! An opulent £3,950 tour of India’s Golden Triangle p106

TRAVEL MASTERCLASS

76The masterclass

Our guide to taking on a charity travel challenge, complete with fundraising tips and inspiring words from a septuagenarian challenge veteran

79Instant expert: Charles Darwin Ask the experts 80Travel clinic 84Traveller’s guide to...

87mid-footwear

Your 60-second guide to the father of evolution and his battle with a mystery illness This month: dive sites, listeria and surviving a plane crash Dr Jane tells you how to deal with a real-life rabies emergency We review the very best short boots/tall shoes on the market

141

The £17,000 trip of a lifetime to Antarctica p136

Where did you name Top City, Top Country and Top UK Destination? Which TV programme was your favourite? Which equipment brands got your seal of approval? Turn to p107 to find out...

“Essaouira’s spice trade lives on in the ancient souk; the mesmerising gnaoua rhythm you hear around the medina was created by the descendants of African slaves.” Sarah Gilbert

60 “Every day of every visit to the Galápagos brings new gripping dramas. And the uniqueness and diversity of the animals is still a surprise.” Lyn Hughes

Galápagos Islands, p60

Inca Trail, p14

44

“Nearby, seal pups scattered, an albatross took flight and we, in our small inflatable Zodiac, were struck silent.” Phoebe Smith

Ushuaia, p137

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Antarctica, p44

Wanderlust April 2015

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TORTURED GENIUS...

Charles Darwin, p79 FEATURES

FROM THE ROAD

44Antarctica 60Galápagos

Cross the Antarctic Circle and visit the Falklands and South Georgia – for icebergs, penguins and Shackleton tales The islands on every wildlife-lover’s bucket list: meet nature close-up on a sail around the dramatic Ecuadorian archipelago India All aboard the Maharajas’ Express! We ride the rails from Mumbai to Delhi, in opulent, opium-fuelled style

90 118South Island, New Zealand

Saddle up for a picturesque pedal along the Otago Central Rail Trail, a gold rush era relic that’s now a modern-day travel treasure

POCKET GUIDES

102Your Story 104Letters

24 Hours: 137 First Ushuaia

Reader Rhoda Allen paints a picture of 1940s Britain seen through Bermudan eyes In our mailbag: a guide with a gift for dung identification; a mosey through Mauritania; insider tips on Jordanian visas; hooray for Hong Kong

The world’s southernmost city is often dismissed as merely a gateway on the way to Antarctica but there are plenty of reasons to linger

Icon: Cu Chi Tunnels, 139 Travel Vietnam

This intricate network of Vietcong tunnels provides a unique, if claustrophobic, perspective on one of the 20th century’s most notorious conflicts

105

This Month You Have Been... Ballooning in Kenya;

Rethinking Macedonia; spreading the word about the Wanderlust World Guide Awards; discovering Dominica and St Lucia; riding the rails from Thailand to Cambodia across the Tonle Sap Lake and much, much more...

Break: Essaouira, 141 Short Morocco

A mesmerising medina, Phoenician history, exuberant festivals and sea views – this is Morocco at its most relaxed

“All our conversations came to an abrupt end as the white-marble dome of the Taj Mahal, basking in the warm rosy glow of sunrise, came into view.”

Nick Boulos

107

90

“Monks, trees, sunsets, sticky rice, boat rides, beaming people: Luang Prabang just has that travel X-factor.” Readers’ Travel Awards

Cagliari, p16 Essaouira, p141

Luang Prabang, p107 India, p90

“Winding up the S-bend towards the summit, I took in the views over New Zealand’s Dunstan Range and the outcrops of tor-like schist. ” Anthony Lambert

Cu Chi Tunnels, p139

118 TALKING HEADS Dervla Murphy, p20 “They will never be able to travel in the way I did 40 years ago, because the world has changed so much. There were so many places where you could get away from motor roads and really enjoy yourself in remote and beautiful places.”

New Zealand, p118

Wanderlust April 2015

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SOUTHERN A hundred years after Shackleton set off, we follow in his

Pure Gold

Thousands of king penguins and elephant and fur seals await visitors to South Georgia’s Gold Harbour

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Antarctica

EXPOSURE footsteps, on our own mission to cross the Antarctic Circle

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS PHOEBE SMITH

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Frozen planet

Navigating the channels between icebergs at Spurt Island, Antarctica; gentoo penguins at Neko Harbour; leopard seals can be spotted at Elephant Island

46 |

Wanderlust April 2015

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Antarctica

T

he guttural growl of a fur seal hung in the air for a good few seconds, echoing off the sides of the sea cliffs before being stolen by a gust of wind. It was like the call of a dinosaur, the cry of a CGI-ed movie monster or the throaty roar of a lion. Nearby, seal pups scattered, an albatross took flight and we, in our small inflatable Zodiac, were struck silent.

But one creature didn’t react. A single macaroni penguin, its yellow hair-like plumes whipping around its face in the wind, was far too busy attempting to scale a near-vertical rock wall to reach the safety of the other nesting birds above. At first his task appeared fruitless. He’d take a few steps, then slip down onto his white belly and skid back into the water with a splash. But each time he would get back up again, determined to achieve his goal no matter how long it took. We watched for about 15 minutes while the choppy waves lapped the side of our vessel; eventually – after more than 20 attempts – the penguin’s little padded feet found purchase and he scampered triumphantly up the wet rock.

It was an impressive show of determination in the face of adversity, which was quite apt given our location. This was Elephant Island, a spine of rocky land that sits in the Southern Ocean at the north-eastern end of the South Shetland Islands, and once home – for four and a half months – to the shipwrecked crew of the Endurance, lead by Ernest Shackleton. It was his footsteps that I was following in now, as part of my own ⊲ Wanderlust April 2015

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Looking at me?

Darwin dimissed the Galåpagos’s marine iguanas as ugly

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Galápagos

Evolutionary journey The origin of a species – Wanderlust – began en route to the Galápagos. We revisit a truly unique world, only to be blown away by its awesome wildlife all over again Words LYN HUGHES photographs SIMON CHUBB

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3/3/15 17:21:13

All aboard!

...well, if you can afford it – the Maharajas’ Express is reassuringly expensive

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India WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS NICK BOULOS

GOLDEN TICKET

Tigers, tuk-tuks, the Taj – we all want to see India’s highlights. But how about seeing them from a cabin aboard the opulent Maharajas’ Express?

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Plus: best of Ecuador

India by train

T R AV E L M AG A Z I N E

All aboard the Maharajas’ Express

www.wanderlust.co.uk April 2015

Antarctica

Cross the Antarctic Circle, visit the Falklands, South Georgia and more

THE ULTIMATE BUCKET LIST

USA, Kilimanjaro, Cuba, Trans-Siberian express, Iceland, Machu Picchu & more...

W i n!

rctica A trip to Anta ple eo p o tw r fo 00! worth £17,0 4 e g a See p

New Zealand

+

Cycle an old gold rush trail through the South Island

♦ Vietnam ♦ Morocco ♦ Ushuaia

£3.99

Wanderlust Issue 155 (April 2015) Antarctica: including Falklands & South Georgia ♦ The Ultimate Bucket List ♦ Galápagos ♦ New Zealand ♦ India by train ♦ Pocket guides: Vietnam, Ushuaia, Essaouira

Galápagos

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www.wanderlust.co.uk February 2015

top 50 trips 2015 Including: burma, Vietnam, Colombia, Chile, norway, Cuba, Cambodia, Iran, Zimbabwe, Montenegro, Usa, China, Greece, Peru, Iceland, Japan, sri Lanka, nicaragua, Italy, Uganda & more...

plus: haItI, botswana, Jordan, IndIa, MIaMI

Trips to: Cana da, Rwanda and South-East Asia..

See pg 4 .

Wanderlust Issue 154 (March 2015) 12 Best South America Walks ♦ Vietnam ♦ Kenya ♦ Austria’s Tirol ♦ Travel Photo of the Year – Results ♦ Connemara’s Wild Atlantic ♦ Pocket guides: Boston, New Zealand, Skopje

Wanderlust Issue 153 (February 2015) Top 50 trips for 2015 ♦ Haiti ♦ Okavango Delta, Botswana ♦ Jordan: photo special ♦ Kumbh Mela, India ♦ Top travel resolutions ♦ Pocket guides: Miami, Laos, Thessaloniki (Greece)

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Win!

t r av e l m ag a z i n e

Win!

t r av e l m ag a z i n e

A train trip Austria for twoacross worth over people £1,50 See pg 4 0

www.wanderlust.co.uk March 2015

12 Best South America Walks

Peru⋅Chile⋅Argentina Ecuador⋅Colombia⋅Bolivia Venezuela⋅Brazil

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♦ Vietnam ♦ Austria ♦ Ireland ♦ Kenya ♦ Boston ♦ New Zealand ♦ Macedonia ♦ Travel Photo of the Year

5/3/15 13:01:42

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+ Receive a FREE £50 travel voucher towards your next trip Visit www.WanderlustVoucher.co.uk for more details

Details online at: www.wanderlustoffer.co.uk/WL155 Call us on: 01753 620426 and quote WL155 * TERMS & CONDITIONS: This offer is not available in conjunction with any other promotion. Offer only available by Direct Debit. To pay by Direct Debit both the billing and postal address must be in the UK. Subscriptions are continuous; after the first payment of £5, a payment of £15.00 will be collected every six months unless cancelled. No minimum term. Please allow up to four weeks for delivery of travel voucher.

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New Zealand

Rail crossing A cyclist passes over the Manuherikia River near Lauder, one of the many impressive structures on the former train track adapted for cyclists

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OFF THE RAILS

Follow a gold rush train track that’s become New Zealand’s greatest ride – and is bringing new hope to old communities WORDS ANTHONY LAMBERT

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