Mezze Magic

Inspired by ingredients and Oakland itself, Mica Talmor of Pomella brings the energy and flavor to her Middle Eastern restaurant.

BY NICHOLAS BOER

BOMBERA irrepressible as her zestful cuisine, Mica Talmor, chef-owner of Pomella on Piedmont Avenue, is blessed.

Mexican fare with irresistible items, like smoked trout tostadas and pork belly tacos inspired by ancestral cooking.

“It’s great being me,” she says, laughing. “I get to do what I want and live in a community that supports me.”

Israel is Talmor’s homeland and her menu draws freely upon the immigrants from the Middle East (Yemen, in particular), the Mediterranean, and Maghrib, and how ingredients have “traveled” over the centuries. “Obsessed” with ancient medieval cookbooks, “I’ll think about an ingredient and how it traveled the world. I’m fascinated by that,” Talmor says.

The 45-seat patio and the airy dining room’s wall planters create an atmosphere that at once captures Oakland’s outdoor beauty and Israel’s open-air markets. It’s all of a piece.

“To exist and create in this time of history where everything is accessible,” she says, trailing off, before jumping back in with, “I love, love, love Oakland’s diverse population — that and the park district; the hills are precious. I can be in the redwoods in 15 minutes.”

MÄGO

Offering an innovative eight-course prix fixe of Colombian delights — Jonagold apple ceviche and octopus with yuca.

Pomella’s hummus incorporates creamy, refined tahini from a woman in Nazareth — and arrives at the table graced with olive oil, paprika, and pine nuts. The 13 spices in her ras el hanout blend come via Oaktown Spice Shop, enlivening Talmor’s pristine beet and walnut salad. Her hot mezze of warm pomegranate eggplant and red cabbage and fig salad owe their vibrancy to Dan’s Fresh Produce in Alameda. Classics all, but she does go “crazy” sometimes, as with her feta-stuffed falafel balls.

“That dish will be on my tombstone,” she says with only mild regret.