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Melissa Jane
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O P E N 7 DAYS A W E E K T: + 3 5 1 9 1 1 1 1 2 6 0 2
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W W W. M E L I S S A J A N E I N T E R I O R S . C O M
START OFF PLUS
SUSI ROGOL GOODKIND, EDITOR
+351 965 581 831 | susi@algarveplusmagazine.com
C O N T A C T S MARTIN GOODKIND
KIM COLLEY
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Design +44 (0)7973 426196 dk.colley@btinternet.com
APT 1093, EC Olivas de St Ant (Loulé) 8101-904. Printed by Gráficas Piquer, Almeria Algarve Plus is published monthly. 6,000 copies are made available through a hand-picked distribution network from Faro to Paderne, Almancil, the Golden Triangle, Loulé, São Bras and Santa Barbara. Copyright 2021. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose other than short extracts for agreed review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Algarve Plus does not accept liability for loss or damage to any materials submitted for publication. Or claims made by advertisers. The views expressed by interviewees or contributors do not necessarily reflect those of the Editor or Algarve Plus. algarveplusmagazine.com
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l ALGARVE P L U S
So was it a bit jolly? Not what is expected of the festive season, of course, but then we've been through almost a year of the notas-expected. But now there are indications that 2021 will be an improvement, with the promise of a successful vaccination programne and the committment of people to play it safe for themselves as well as others. And staying positive is a pretty good medicine. At AlgarvePLUS we're coming up fast to our first anniversary. We launched in March last year (how's that for rubbish timing?) but thanks to the incredible support of our advertisers and distributors, and the reaction of you, our readers, we feel that we have been able to make that difference we promised, introducing a whole new perspective to life here on the Algarve. Our focus will always be on quality content, on finding the people and places that will enrich our lives, on sharing those little gems, and on constant journeys of discovery. We believe that every experience should be special; that's what 'Plus' is all about... always adding more ingredients to the recipe for success. In this issue, we've travelled around – despite the rain and cold – tasted different treats, and looked at what a new generation of talent is bringing to the lifestyle mix, blending age-old methodology with a new brand of thinking. It's exciting, enthralling and inspirational... and points the way to a better future.
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Welcome
NEWS PLUS
You get what you pay for
BAGS OF GOOD NEWS
F R O N T COV E R : It’s January. Oranges everywhere. Sweet, and sunny and so juicy. The local ones are the absolute best.
Fashion retailer Mango is the first major Spanish textile company committed to replacing, by end 2021, the 160 million plastic bags it currently uses for folded garments with paper. The new bags will be made of tissue paper, a material derived from the natural pulp of renewable sources, sourced from sustainably-managed forests. The project is part of the Fashion Pact, a global coalition which aims to increase sustainability by minimising the environmental impact of the textile and fashion industry, focusing on three issues: fighting against climate change, preserving biodiversity, and protecting the oceans. By eliminating all plastic from its packaging, Mango has already commenced its contribution and its move to paper will help save our seas.
BEDMATES Designer and artibiter of good taste when it comes to all things home related, Laurence Lewellyn-Bowen has put his name and initials on a particularly stylish range of bed linens. Easycare and statement-making, they can be found at Casa Texteis stores in Almancil, Alcantarilha and Carvoeiro. Duvet covers with pillow cases start at around €40.
IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE
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There’s a very big taste difference between everyday oils and specialist brands where the focus is on quality of the highest degree. Olival da Risca, whose oils can be found at Bean17 in Loulé, has won countless awards and believes that olive growing and cultivation must be in harmony with nature. Its range includes a chili-flavoured oil – they have a whole field of cayenne pepper plants in the middle of one of the olive orchards– as well as garlic, lemon, mandarin and herbs.
CREATIVE SHOPPING
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ANOTHER MASK
Os Agostos, that wonderful venue in the hills of Santa Bárbara, a grand country estate that has been in the same family for generations, is where concerts are performed, weddings are celebrated, and those in search of a luxurious break choose to stay. Another string to its very beautiful bow, developed to keep staff busy and involved during the pandemic, is about to launch with a fine online shop which will showcase the work of various artists. Aude Touly, the house florist, has created a decorative wreath collection of mixed materials and flowers, which can be personalised; the one shown here uses honesty (lunaria), rabbit tails grass (laguus) and Algarvean wild flowers, embellished with macramé and wooden beads. €26. The cushions – each one an individual and carrying its own message, are the work of artist André Farrajota, €25. osagostos.com
The Kongo people wore Bandunga masks to act out the will of ancestors and the supernatural, whose verdict was irrefutable. This fine 40x18cm example comes from Corte Real gallery in Paderne. €202
LITTLE FEET
Australian baby boots in pink with sheepskin lining and glittery bow at the back. Osito by Conguitos and so sweet €35.00 conguitos.eu
COLD FEET
Faux fur slippers from Zara Home promise to keep your tootsies warm. €27.99
Peter Kain
CROWNING GLORY Seen growing on the hills across the Algarve’s countryside, the Agave Americana thrives in the sunshine with a minimal amount of rain. It is super-robust with terrifying spiky leaves, but has fallen victim to a ghastly pest, the snout–nosed weevil. Just as the Agave is about to burst into bloom, it attacks the plant in the centre of its tender crown, laying eggs where the leaves meet the stem. Once the grubs have hatched they chew their way from inside to out. What would have been a beautiful floral spike is totally destroyed and the plant dies. It takes a lifespan of ten years or more for the Agave to produce this branched stalk and yellow-greenish blooms. Providing a source of food for many pollinating insects the flowers are elevated from heights of eight to 12m. Throughout the summer of 2020 there were few as the plague of snout weevils made its way from one plant to another leaving behind clusters of huge shrivelled leaves. Although most Agaves growing here are wild, other cultivated varieties are susceptible to attack by the snout weevil. For information on pest control, visit titantreeaz.com
HIS FEET
Suede loafers by Hugs & Co, at Dunas Lifestyle, Quinta Shopping. €145 and a big choice of colours.
Not only sunny yellow, but pieces that have been crafted from sustainablysourced materials made from waste. What’s normally thrown away is purposefully transformed into fashion-forward treasures to be loved and valued. From the Conscious Exclusive range at H&M. Trousers €99; shirt €79.95; look priceless.
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It’s that time of year when international colour authority Pantone tells us what’s trending. And this time round, designers, manufacturers and stylists in every field are racing to bring on the yellow (Pantone 13-0647 aka Illuminating), and Ultimate Grey (12-5104).
Hello yellow coat rack Five hooks, so you can get hung up in style. Powder coated steel, 480mm wide. Order online at blockdesign.co.uk. €30. And yes, it also comes in grey. From the same company is a sculptural memo block is that essential grey, 700 pages of self-adhesive sticky notes. €15.
STAYING WARM LOOKING COOL H&M gets it right for guys, and grey’s a fave this month (what else?). Heat Up Tech is a collection of layering pieces using Thermolite®, a new lightweight technology for warmth without the bulk. It’s about the perfect pile and fleece designs for an urban street style look.
IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE
ALGARVE P L U S
COLOUR PREDICTIONS
NEWS PLUS
ON THE ROAD W I T H S H O R T E R D AY S AT T H I S T I M E O F T H E Y E A R A N D C E R TA I N LY C O O L E R T E M P E R AT U R E S , N O W I S I D E A L FOR A BIT OF VILL AGE HOPPING . OUR INTREPID ADVENTURER SET OFF TO EXPLORE THE HILL S OF THE EAST ALGARVE AND THE GLORIOUS GUADIANA RIVER T H AT S E PA R AT E S P O R T U G A L F R O M S PA I N
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BRIAN REDMOND
This page: The beautifully sculpted and detailed dome and belltower of Igreja de Nossa Senora dos Mรกrtires in Castro Marim. Opposite page, top: Looking down at the small but perfectly formed village of Cacela Velha. Below: the charming little village houses with door and window stonework surrounds painted in bright colours.
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IAN REDMOND
N THE words of Tolkien, “Not all who wander are lost” and if it’s wandering you are after then the Algarve offers plenty of opportunity for easy road trips, stopping along the way at cafés, traditional restaurants and artisanal workshops, while admiring wonderful countryside and coastal locations, interesting architecture and also meeting some really nice people. On the eastern end of the archipelago of islands that lie in the Ria Formosa is the small village of Cacela Velha in the municipality of Vila Real de Santo António more or less half way between Tavira and Vila Real, south of the EN125. The village is situated on top of a hill that looks out across the sandy beach to the lagoon. A fort built as a defence during the 17th century is a focal point, as is the church of Nossa Senhora de Assunção. There are some excellent seafood restaurants tucked away here and there and the ever popular Casa da Igreja, a traditional tasca in the heart of the village, is certainly worth a stop. A cobbled central square gives the village an airy feel and the fact that it is by the seaside makes it feel like its floating. The main beach as seen from the hilltop is called Praia da Fábrica. It can be reached on foot by wading at
low tide and, when the tide is in, there are ferry boats that shuttle back and forth for a small fee. Another fortified town that is nearby is Castro Marim, about 20 minutes drive to the east. The imposing fortress castle was built during the reconquest of Portugal as a defence against the Moors. Later it would become the headquarters of The Order of Christ who were the successors of The Knights Templar and who would in time move to the town of Tomar in the centre of Portugal. Despite their defection, Castro Marim continued as an important outpost on the border with Spain, and in the 17th century another fort was built on a neighbouring hill that became home to the largest military garrison in Algarve. The attractive town beneath the two forts is typically Algarvean with whitewashed houses and narrow cobbled streets. The view from the castle walls is quite wonderful as it overlooks the town, the salt pans with its population of flamingos, and across the broad estuary of the Rio Guadiana to Ayamonte in Spain. The salt pans produce the delicacy Flor da Sal, a culinary delight, and are also home to a unique health treatment in the mud baths of Spa Salino, located on the road towards Vila Real de Santo António.
This page left: The view from Alcoutim across the river to Sanlúcar de Guadiana in Spain. Centre: a stall at Alcoutim’s annual Festival of Smuggling (Contrabando). Below: Castro Marim with the castle above and the bridge to Spain in the background. Opposite page, top left clockwise: Aerial view of the salt pans at Castro Marim; the old fortificationas at Cacela a Velha; Praia Fluvial do Prego Funda, Alcoutim; below: sausages from Feito no Zambujal
Normally in the last week of August Castro Marim hosts a medieval festival with the original castle as the centre of the dramatic reconstruction, while the streets outside are crammed with people out to have a good time. During the Bronze Age, boats would travel from Castro Marim at the mouth of the Guadiana upriver to Alcoutim where there were large deposits of copper and tin.
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Ta k e t h e s l o w r o a d During the 1990s, a new highway was built from the coast to improve access to Beja and by travelling along this route you can reach the town of Alcoutim in about 30 minutes. But for a more scenic, enjoyable and slightly longer drive you should turn off the main road after 12km in the direction of Foz de Odeleite. The sight of the broad sweep of the Guadiana here catches you off guard as the road dips down to river level and you begin to follow the riverbank upstream. Foz de Odeleite has a jetty where sailing boats and commercial river cruise boats can moor. There are three good eateries
there, most notably, O Camones, Casa Merca and Arcos do Guadiana, the latter serving up typical Portuguese dishes. A little further along the road you will begin to notice a number of riverside houses. Just past the village of Álamo, you come to Guerreiros do Rio another small hamlet with a jetty and snack bar. There is also a museum, Museu do Rio, which is worth exploring to learn about the historic fishing, gastronomy and smuggling activities of the region. The road begins to climb now after Laranjeiras and Montinho and, as it crests on a hill at the Miradouro do Pontal, you look down at the river bend away below which looks almost like the Rio Douro winding its way to Porto.
Celebrations with neighbours The town of Alcoutim gets its name from the Moors who called it Al-Qutami, their name for a Peregrine Falcon. It is a small town with a small population in the least densely populated municipality in Portugal. But what it lacks in size it makes up for in charm. Its riverside location looking across the Guadiana to its Spanish neighbouring town of Sanlúcar
The two towns, Alcoutim and its Spanish neighbour and varied history. Each one has a fortress castle from
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across the Guadiana, Sanlúcar de Guadiana, share a long where they would once lob cannon balls at each other. de Guadiana, giving it an air of mystery. The two towns share a long and varied history. Each one has a fortress castle from where they could lob cannon balls at each other, but it was in the castle at Alcoutim where a peace treaty was signed between Ferdinand of Portugal and Henry II of Spain. Normally, in late March each year, a festival – Festival do Contrabando – is hosted by the two towns to remember the days when contraband was a part of the life blood between their countries. In the early part of the 20th century each had materials that the other needed: Portugal had access to coffee and sugar while Spain had shoes and fabrics. Smugglers would swim across the Guadiana to exchange goods which could then be sold on the black market. Clever planning. One of the attractions of the festival is a floating pontoon
foot bridge that connects the two towns. There are now plans in motion to design and build a permanent bridge. The river is still navigable here and continues to be so up to Mértola approximately 25km north. One of the town’s main attractions is a fluvial beach, Pego do Fundo, situated on a tributary of the Guadiana. It is very popular during the summer months so best to time your visit carefully. Alcoutim is also the eastern starting point for the Via Algarviana hiking trail that meanders for 300km across the region, ending at Cabo São Vicente near Sagres. (See page 52 for Charlie Perring’s commentary this hugely long and always challenging walk, which he undertook during the heavy November rains.) On the road out of Alcoutim, on the EN124 at Corte de Seda, is an interesting conservation project. The Algarve has an indigenous breed of goat. O Sítio da Cabra Algarvia promotes the breed and its produce. Occasionally, by prior arrangement, you can go on a trek that follows the herd.
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Top left, clockwise: One of a series of intriguing metal sculptures across the Algarve, each pointing to the heart of a town and representing something of its past. This one welcomes you to Castro Marim; A satisfying lunch at A Tia Bia, on the road towards Loulé; Typical stonework, giving a village house its individuality; Barranco do Velho, nesting in the warmth of the surrounding hills
Food finds Another food producer worth visiting in the region is Feito no Zambujal. The speciality here is the raising of Alentejan black pigs in a free-range environment on the hills of Zambujal, south of the EN124. Here they produce the derivatives such as sausage and cured meats from the pigs. They can be reached online to arrange visits, and meals can sometimes be enjoyed with vegetarian options also on the menu. Back on the main route heading west, the road runs in a straight tree-lined direction to the small town of Martim Longo. This is a provincial working town at a crossroad to the agricultural heartland of the Alentejo that developed as an important centre in the wool and textile industry. There are a number of popular restaurants in the town with an emphasis on local traditional meat dishes, one of them – O Rei de Carne or The King of Meat – says it all. Incidentally, if
The next time you feel like exploring, head off into the quiet away from the main roads and follow signposts to little villages that have remained unchanged over the years.
you travel by light aircraft there is a convenient airfield just outside town. The road now begins to head south and enters into hilly terrain and the municipality of Tavira. Cachopo is 20 minutes from Martim Longo and is considered to be the perfect example of an Algarve village. Nestled in the hills, there is a river nearby, cobbled streets leading to the church, whitewashed houses slashed with colour, a blacksmith, a pottery, a café bar with a flower engulfed patio, and a medronho distillery. As well as the flowery Caffe Palmeiras there are two other eateries in the town, A Charrua and Retiro dos Caçadores. Meat features large on the menus and each one is worthy of a visit. The route now heads through rambling countryside in the direction of Barranco do Velho, which is in the municipality of Loulé. This small conjunction of houses, lies along the Via Algarviana but it is also the starting point for other local walking trails. Perhaps the best known restaurant in this area of Algarve, the Serra de Caldeirão, is A Tia Bia. The menu oozes traditional recipes and there is a passion about the place and a pride in what they produce and serve. As you leave Barranco do Velho, you reach a fork on the road. Turn right for Loulé, left to São Brás de Alportel and on to Estoi and further on, toward Faro. The next time you feel like exploring, head off into the quiet away from the main roads and follow signposts to little villages that have remained unchanged over the years, locals that will welcome you with a smile and a wave, places to eat where flavour comes before finery. Then you’ll be experiencing the Algarve of the people.
Vintage chic and stylish new furniture, luxurious textiles and lighting, bespoke hand-made seating to order.
Oliveira Tavira, let us inspire your home.
Follow us:
@oliveiradecor @oliveirafurniture Find us: Rua 4 de Outubro 24, Tavira 8800-362 Call us: 962 379 584 Email us: decor@ byoliveira.com
www.byoliveira.com
CHOICES PLUS
THE NEW TRADITIONALISTS H E R E I N O U R A D O P T E D C O U N T R Y, T H E R E A R E T H O S E O F A N E W G E N E R AT I O N W H O A R E D E D I C AT I N G T H E M S E LV E S T O P R E S E R V I N G T H E V E R Y T H I N G S T H AT T H E M O D E R N - D AY W O R L D S E E M S E A G E R T O L E AV E B E H I N D ; S K I L L , K N O W L E D G E , PAT I E N C E , O B S E R VAT I O N , C A R E , I N G E N U I T Y, A N D C O M M U N I T Y. J O I N U S A N D D I S C O V E R T H O S E F R E S H A N D D E T E R M I N E D YO U N G TA L E N T S
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EMMA CAMPUS
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In 2010, Isabel Costa and João Tomás noticed the seemingly forgotten task of recovering an important local heritage, threatened to disappear in the Burel Mountains. Their calling was to assist in saving the knowledge and ancestral techniques used to make a specific regional textile, burel, the most traditional fabric in the local wool industry. Through careful renovation and investigation, they regenerated what is now The Burel Factory but originally founded in 1947. The pair put investment and a team together to regenerate the space and are now the biggest employment source in Vila de Manteigas. “Today, the employees at the factory whose ancestors have worked for the region for generations are continuing to do so themselves, using the same machines and traditional equipment. We like to think we are recoverers of heritage, material and immaterial. That
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THE BUREL FACTORY.
“We like to think we are recoverers of heritage, material and immaterial” is our mission,” say Isabel and João, who subsequently created Burel Mountain Hotel, a beautiful five-star accommodation in the Serra Estrela. By collaborating with designers to integrate designs suitable for modern environments, they are guaranteeing the preservation of the past and reinterpreting it for the future.
DISCOVERED INTERESTING NEW TALENTS? EMAIL SUSI@ALGARVEPLUSMAGAZINE.COM
FABRICA Weaver
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MORGADO DO QUINTÃO Wine producer
Although modern-day life is changing so much that is familiar, here in Portugal traditions aren’t disappearing but instead, transforming. Communities and individuals are seeking out creative and innovative ways to revive and adapt them to make for a more sustainable way of living, which will lead them into the future. In the Algarve, winemakers are adapting their methods to minimise the impact on the environment, opting to create ‘minimal intervention’, natural wines, a trend encouraged by various à la mode natural wine bars in Lisbon and beyond. Filipe Caldas de Vasconcellos, who we interviewed in the October issue, manages his own global tech start-up, but when he inherited his family’s 200-year-old vineyard in 2018, he set out on a mission
to inject a contemporary vision into the estate and its traditions to create a new identity while investing in his heritage. His comments are particularly inspiring and are reflective of the movement. “At Morgado do Quintão we’re strongly inspired by our family’s history but are committed to bringing it into the future, respecting tradition while enjoying a certain sense of adventure by way of going about it. “From deciding to keep our old vines (which produce much less grapes than newer ones) and going organic, to being innovative in our labels, we’re attempting to connect tradition with today. We don’t think of ourselves as the owners of the place –we’re just here to look after it for the next generation.”
In the sleepy, rolling hillscape of the Alentejan countryside, a different type of weaving is experiencing a revival. Margarida Adónis, a film producer from Lisbon (who just exudes New-York-artgallery chic), adopted Fabrica, a tiny tapestry factory in the small village of Reguengos de Monsaraz, from its Dutch owner earlier this year. Originally founded in the early 19th century to produce winter blankets for local shepherds, the factory is located in an old olive press and maintains all its original features. Today, Margarida is ensuring that the tapestries
continue to be woven in the traditional way, in local Portuguese wool and on old wooden semi-manual looms. With her fresh vision she is collaborating with the small group of ladies who weave on the looms to create everything from bags, to cushion covers, rugs, and blankets in magnificent combinations of colours and patterns. This has fostered new interest for the craft which is now coveted by collectors and famous interior designers; nearby, São Lourenço do Barrocal commissioned rugs and cushions for every bedroom and lounge in the hotel. .
Tapestries continue to be woven in the traditional way, in local Portuguese wool.
CHOICES PLUS
JOSE RIBEIRO Baker
and skills he learnt from his mother and grandmother, he injects his own vision for contemporary baking. Excited about adapting his heritage, he wants to highlight the importance of rethinking the ways in which we create and consume. “There is a new wave of people who want to learn and communicate with what we do and that the great things in life are those that we can do ourselves, with our own hands. The best things in life take time – the time is our ‘essence’ – and that’s what inspired the name of my business, Essencia Bakery.”
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Elsewhere in the Algarve, Jose Ribeiro, is a young entrepreneur blending tradition with mindfulness at only 22 years old. He founded his business Essencia Bakery after he noticed a demand for food that represented more than just fast consumption. As a chef by trade (he worked previously at Michelinstarred restaurant São Gabriel in Quinta do Lago), he started thinking about how to reinterpret his craft through his roots and with a sense of nostalgia. Crafting and hand delivering fresh loaves of sourdough bread from the kitchen, using the methods
MADALENA TELO Potter
Pottery is another craft and tradition in Portugal that goes back centuries and is ingrained in the country’s creative culture. One young ceramicist, Madalena Telo, based in the high mountains of Monchique, learned about preservation and tradition from a young age. Growing up as the daughter of a well-known local potter, working with local clay became second nature. Leaving home in her late teens to study sculpture and ceramics in Porto, she honed her generational craft and expanded her technique through various apprenticeships before feeling the pull of the mountains... and home. Today she works from the same studio as her father, located down a quiet cobbled street in the village that she grew up in. Surrounded by
textures, pigments, brushes and wheels to materialise visions, she creates shapes that are a modern reflection of the history that she inherited, a subtle balance between old and new. “Honouring ancestral techniques makes us truly connect with the freedom of creation. In a time where everything is moving at a crazy speed, as a small maker, the pleasure of creation feels like a true blessing,” she says.
“Honouring ancestral techniques makes us truly connect with the freedom of creation”
OWN A PIECE OF THE NEW TRADITION
Toast fresh bread delivered to your door in the Algarve from @essencia_bakery
Eat from sustainable pottery @madalenatelo
Decorate your home with Burel Fabrics @ b u r e l . f a c t o r y / b u r e l f a c t o r y. c o m
Carry a bag woven on a traditional loom in Alentejo @fabricaal / fabricaal.com
Drink wine from a family vineyard @morgadodoquintao / morgadodoquintao.pt
IN OUR FEBRUARY ISSUE, WE’LL INTRODUCE YOU TO MORE SPECIAL PEOPLE
B L E N D I N G T R A D I T I O N with new techniques
WINE PLUS
WE RING IN THE NEW YEAR WITH A MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY APPROACH TO WINE MAKING . THE WORLD OF WINE IS CHANGING AND S O M E P I O N E E R S H AV E A L R E A DY S E T O U T A L O N G A B R AV E PAT H T O WA R D S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y A N D E N V I R O N M E N TA L LY - C O N S C I O U S P R A C T I C E S
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JUSTIN O’HANLON
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ET UP IN 2007, Ribafreixo is a collaborative effort
between South African Mário Pinheiro and Alentejo native Nuno Bicó. This ambitious endeavour saw them purchase 28 separate abandoned agricultural plots and weave them together into a 114 hectare patchwork tapestry. In 2012 they opened their state-of-the-art winery, putting huge investment into sustainable energy, gravity processing and an environmentally-conscious infrastructure. All of their wines are certified as vegan friendly; their vision for the future is greener, but no less ambitious. Make no mistake, they have set their stall out to make world-class wines and are meeting, unsurprisingly, with great success.
2. Connections Chenin Blanc A tip of the hat and natural homage from co-owner Mário Pinhero to his South African homeland, the label ‘Connections’ speaks volumes about his sentimental attachment and appreciation for what is South Africa’s most widely-planted white grape varietal. I suppose one of the great advantages of starting with a blank canvas of over 114ha with space to expand on, is that what were just once concepts and considerations can become reality. With its entirely stainless steel fermentation, this lees-rich acidity-driven Alentejo oddity is certainly worth a try. Lively aromatic profile, a zesty, mouth-watering feel, pink grapefruit and lime peel, makes for a superb wine to enjoy with food, shellfish and crustaceans in particular, but equally suitable to enjoy in the afternoon sun with friends.
Did you know that this country holds the distinction of protecting nearly 250 native species of grape? €12.50
1. Gáudio Brut Nature Espumante The Alentejo is not an area synonymous with traditional method wine production. Generally warmer climates and longer higher sugar levels in the wine make those regions usually unsuitable for sparkling wines where low alcohol, crispness, freshness and dryness are the characteristics sought after. Cooler climates, higher altitude and oceanic influences – these are elements at play in many of the best sparkling wines. The long-sighted approach and meticulously planned operation at Ribafreixo leaves little to chance. Vidiguera’s distinct microclimate, the cooling influence of the Atlantic ocean, shelter from the neighbouring Serra do Mendro mountains and mineral-rich schist soils combine to make this area ideal for the production of dry sparkling wines and Brut Nature from 100% Antão Vaz. This one has a fresh minerality, a zesty and persistent mousse, a wonderful citrus fruit profile and no added sugar. It is lean, lively and lovely. €16.50
3. Pato Frio Grand Escolha
Antão Vaz is where the Alentejo really starts to flex some expressive muscle for white wine production with opulent, rich, robust whites with incredibly expressive aromatic profiles, ranging from ripe tropical fruits to concentrated white and stone fruit. As weighty as they are exuberant, Pato Frio’s Grand Escolha is no different, perhaps just a little more refined. A mixture of new and old oak barrels are used to add complexity but not to over-power the grapes’ naturally expressive fruit profile. This is a great example of what considered wine making, expression of the terroir, and allowing the vineyard to speak for itself can achieve. It has a bone dry, bold and expressive nose but balanced. The palate and mouth feel are weighty from the obvious but well integrated use of lees and barrel. Extremely gastronomic, this one provides subtle layer after subtle layer of aromas and flavours. Huge potential for further bottle ageing but perfectly good to drink now. €12.50
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4. Gáudio Clássico 2015 This is an Alentejo heavy hitter at a lightweight price point, a beautiful blend of Alicante Bouchet, and Touriga Nacional, and a small spattering of Aragonez (Tempranillo) and Tinto Miuda. Seven months in French oak barrels and a minimum of 12 months bottle/cellar ageing, for a wine that retails at under €10 and hits restaurant wine lists at somewhere in the mid-to-late €20s, it really drinks well above this price point. 2015 is an especially good vintage for wines from the Alentejo, and this is an entry level offering from a first-class vintage, but my word… wait till you get your nose in the glass and your lips locked to the rim. Smooth, elegant, but weighty and well rounded. Some soft tannin is present but almost unnoticed among the many fruit-driven facets to this wine – dark bramble fruit, liquorice and morello cherry. The balance of primary fruit and subtle spice speaks volumes of the care and attention taken in the vineyard and the winery alike. This is as close to a commercial wine as Ribafreixo produces, and I find it a far more attractive option that many much more established premium reds from the same area. €9.99
Gáudio Reserva 2016 We’re moving up through the gears now. The Gáudio Reserva – much like its Clássico counterpart – drinks well above its price point. Here we start to see the full potential of what Ribafreixo is trying to achieve. Harmony of varietal and soil type, expression of the terroir, complexity and well-thought-through winemaking. Head winemaker and COO Nuno Bicó manages to surprise and impress me more with every wine I try, and each progressive step to the next level feels like leaps and bounds in quality. 80% Alicante Bouchet and 20% Touriga
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Nacional, fermented in large French oak vats and then barrel-aged in French oak for a further 12 months, it is then bottle-aged and cellared for a minimum of 36 months. There is so much time, so much care and attention from bud burst to bottling and the patient process of allowing to the wine to mature the way they want it. Exceptionally good, dark bramble fruit and beautifully integrated oak offer ageing potential long beyond its current release, meaty notes, depth and complexity. Fine supple tannin and a long lingering finish leave you profoundly pleased with every passing sip. €19.99
Moinho Branco Alicante Bouchet 2015 Where to begin and what a way to finish! There are moments – times in my wine life – when I am reminded why it is that I am so passionate about this subject, when I realise exactly why it excites and beguiles me so, and why I am enticed and enthralled by the vinified sirens' call. This is one such wine... and what a wine it is. This elegant, beautifully-balanced, fruit-driven Rubik's cube painted in a thousand hues changes every minute in my glass. Floral notes of violet and rose petal are complemented by dark bramble fruit and black morello cherry, all undercut by vanilla and cocoa bean spice. On the palate, it’s all silky smooth and elegant – fresh acidity, soft and supple tannins structure and a finish that goes on for days. I can say it is that it is one of the two nicest wines I have had the pleasure of drinking since I moved here to Portugal. The year 2015 was a five-star vintage in the Alentejo, but this single varietal expression of certainly my favourite Portuguese red varietal is in a whole other league to almost anything else I’ve tried since I arrived. World class. €34
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www.taviradartes.com Visit us: Travessa Jacques Pessoa 8,Tavira, 8800-374 Call us: 962 012 111 Email us: taviradartes@gmail.com Follow us:
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AV E I R O I S O N T H E W E S T C O A S T O F P O R T U G A L , H A L F WAY BETWEEN THE ELEGANT CITIES OF PORTO AND COIMBRA . IT IS A WORLD OF ITS OWN , SIT TING ON A L AGOON WITH A NET WORK O F C A N A L S T H AT F E R R Y L O C A L S A N D T O U R I S T A L I K E O N B I G , COLOURFUL GONDOLAS. IT IS A SIGHT TO BEHOLD
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Opposite page: The boats on the central canal. This page, above: The city's lighthouse; centre: Ovos moles de Aveiro, the local sweet treat; below: the striped houses at Costa Nova
the city. Opening to the view of the canals that now create a unique landscape of the city but in the past played a crucial role.
Aveiro is sometimes called the Venice of Portugal. A very unfortunate name given to this city during the regime of Salazar, to prove that Portugal is a special country that really has it all. Even though you can see some resemblance to the former Italian capital of trade, Aveiro is rather a little Portuguese city that has a lot more to offer simply by being itself. Observing the moliceiros, the local boats, from the bank of the Ria can create the same excitement as sailing in one. A beautifully painted vessel glides through the canal, marking the trail on the water which, after a while, disappears. Yet another boat passes by, then another one, and then another... Aveiro’s 'gondolas' are much bigger than the Italian version, and it’s not surprising considering that they were used to transport goods, not people. At 15 metres long and 2.5 metres wide, they were a solution for transporting that vital plant life. The colours of the boats can brighten up even the gloomiest day. With intense blues, reds, greens, and yellows, they stand out from the dark green waters of the canals. They’re also a great illustration of the Portuguese lifestyle, filled with religion, but also fun. While on the bow of a boat the saints or the Holy Mary were represented to lead the workers safely home; on the back, humoristic, and very often erotic artworks were shown. Today, however, you won’t see green algae piling on the boats, pressing them heavily into the water. Instead they are filled with tourists who observe Aveiro from the level of the canal with its splendid beauty peeking out from everywhere.
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Getting around by boat
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RITING about Aveiro is not the easiest task for me, because writing about this city is telling a story about home. It was the very first Portuguese city I saw properly, the very first I lived in, and the very first I fell in love with. And you know what they say: your first love never dies. The history of Aveiro started in the time of the Roman Empire and lasted through the ages. Salt extraction defined how the city and the surrounding area looks today. While being just six kilometres from the Atlantic Ocean, the landscape of Aveiro is predominated by salinas and canals that allow easy water transport of salt and moliços, plants that were used in agriculture. I walked down Avenida Dr. Lourenço Peixinho every day. It starts at the train station, where the rich azulejo decoration is one of the most stunning in the whole region. Maybe I can’t compare it to São Bento in Porto, which is filled with white-blue tiles from the bottom to the top, but Aveiro has the charm of a small city, with delicate beauty at its heart, and you can see it clearly in the railway station. The smell of coffee and freshly baked bread fill the street that leads you straight to the heart of
TRAVEL PLUS
Above left, clockwise: Watching the world go; the intriguing Santa Maria da Feira Castle, a national momument since 1910 and a fine example of Portuguese medieval architecture; the train station, something of a tourist attraction with its elaborate blue and white tile work
Places of distinction Whether from the boats or simply from the land, one of many of the beautiful things that forms the very personality Aveiro is the architecture. Buildings with azulejos – whether public, sacral, or private – recall times when Aveiro was a trade centre. The Portuguese tradition of incorporating tilework – mainly blue and white – blossoms in this city. Panels on the train station show the history of transport. The glaze shines from the walls, floors, and even ceilings of churches and chapels. On Praça do Marquês de Pombal, the Casa de Santa Zita building proudly decorates the square which nowadays is dominated by the modernist architecture of the courthouse and the police station. The contemporary mural on Rua do Clube dos Galitos shows traditions that kept Aveiro alive for ages. Facades of the little, narrow buildings hidden in the streets near the canal
on the western side of Aveiro, wait to be discovered by people who have accidentally strayed from the beaten path. Early autumn mornings, when the humid cold scares people away, is the best time to walk around the city and look for little signs of vivid culture, but I also love looking at them in full sunlight, or painted in pink by the setting sun. Frivolous lines, curvy pediments, and the iron decoration of the doors and windows draw viewers’ eyes to each building. Aveiro is a perfect place to also see worldclass art nouveau architecture. A screaming mask emerging from the stone, delicate flowers that entwine on cold walls, and rich details seduce passers-by with their originality and show some of the best examples of the movement in Europe. Major Pessoa House, in which the Art Nouveau museum is currently located, is an emblematic building in Aveiro. Together with
Aveiro was the very first Portuguese city I saw properly, the very first I lived in, and the very first I fell in love with.
a few other properties in the same style, it overlooks the Rossio Garden. In the yard of the building, white iron chairs with stylish tables are surrounded by plants and azulejos. It’s a wonderful place to drink a coffee and listen to the bustle of the trade centre, to which the yard’s big iron gate leads. Fishermen used to be one of the most important workers in Aveiro, bringing fresh food to the town every day. Praça do Peixe is is still very much alive today. Surrounded by little houses, in the middle of the square, there is a big building; one sniff is enough to know what is located inside. It might not sound nice, but the smell of fish, algae, salty water and mud is typical of Aveiro. Brought by the wind from Praça do Peixe to each part of the city, after a while it becomes familiar. Parque Infante Dom Pedro, called Parque da Macaca (Monkey Park) by locals, is not the only, but surely the most beautiful, park in the city. While approaching a yellow pergola covered with climbing plants that from time to time cover the ground with violet petals, it’s impossible to miss the large gazebo that used to serve as a place for live concerts. After descending the stairs to the lower part of the park, hidden in the structure of the
T R AV E L T I P S T O E AT: As you can imagine, there are very many restaurants, cafés and snack bars at all price levels and cuisine choices. Walk around, and stop wherever grabs your fancy. T O S TAY :
Hotel das Salinas
Overlooking the central canal, selfcatering facilities, 3-star and with rave reports. Parking available. hoteldassalinas.com / 234 404 190
Hotel Aveiro Palace
Four-star hotel in historic building overlooking the canal and Moliceiros boats. Bag a room with a balcony.
Above left, clockwise: Decorative fish on a old building in the town centre; Major Pessoa House; Parque Infante Dom Pedro. Right, top: Hotel Aveiro Palace; below: Hotel das Salinas
Meliaria.com
stairs, a romantic grotto reveals its secrets. On the wall right next to it, two panels of azulejos recall the important events from the city’s life. The park was created around 1862. Designed and executed in an English style, it gives space to the imagination and secrets. Trees hover their branches to dip their leaves into the water of the lake that has become a home for ducks, geese, and water turtles. The architecture around the city never fails to fascinate and enchant. You'll discover benches covered with azulejos and hidden behind plants and man-made structures that will encourage you to stop for a moment, sit down, and relax in the shade while listening to the sounds of nature.
When the elements meet To fully understand the beauty of the salinas and the Aveiro lagoon, you have to see it at sunset or sunrise. On a dirt road, a little bit away from the centre of the city, a real spectacle happens every sunny day. Imagine a place where all four elements meet and mix in perfect harmony. Calm, steady water reflects the burning sun that slowly changes colour, starting from bright yellow, through golden, orange, pink, red, and purple. It’s a unique performance that
is never going to be repeated. Because the next day the wind will paint different lines on the surface of the water, or a water bug will land on it. Or maybe the rain will change the appearance of the little island with its abandoned building that turns into a black outline every time the sun hides behind it. This unique moment that is different every day, for everyone, from every place, is a perfect time to simply be, look, and realise that none of the sunsets above the Aveiro Lagoon will be repeated. Neither will any other moment that we missed because of the rush we may have been in. I’ve already visited so many places in this beautiful country, from the North to the South and from the West to the East, but if you ask me to pick one place I wish to be able to come back to more often, it’s always and forever Aveiro. With its perfect connection of culture, architecture, and nature. With water that calms me with its steady murmur wherever you go in the city. And with the most beautiful memories about places and people. I’m still in love with this stunning city, so don’t believe my words. Just visit Aveiro and discover it for yourself, but be careful, it can hypnotise you and make you want to remain there forever.
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Melia Ria Hotel & Spa
Elegant 4-star hotel, next to the Congress Centre and a business favourite. The Spa (there’s an extra charge for this) boasts a heated pool, fitness centre and sauna. On-site parking and a ten-minute walk from the centre of town.
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hotelaveiropalace.com / 234 421 885
CREATIVITY PLUS
C U R R E N T LY D I S P L AY E D AT G A L E R I A C Ô R T E - R E A L I S A C O L L E C T I O N O F A R T W O R K S C R E AT E D B Y A R E M A R K A B L E A M E R I C A N W H O H A S C H O S E N T O T R A N S L AT E , R E - I N T E R P R E T A N D E M B E L L I S H W H AT H E SEES TO PRESENT A VERY DIFFERENT VISION
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seep into the hilly terrain, he has endeavoured to create a sense of impermanence as features seem to half-appear and disappear from view. He makes no apology for the visual games he plays or his belief that he can enrich nature.
WORTH KNOWING Kadar is a Fine Arts graduate from Manhattan’s prestigious Cooper Union. After leaving New York he moved to Portland, Oregon. Over the course of 25 years, his visits to Europe have been an important catalyst stimulating some of his finest studies. During his most recent visit he worked as Artist in Residence at Galeria Côrte-Real completing his paintings of Sintra and other more remote parts of northern Portugal. He has produced compositions for Tacoma Art Museum, Willamette University Museum in Salem and the Oregon Historical Society.
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American artist Kevin Kadar made observations of Iberia’s natural world. Then, filled with assured confidence that he could improve upon what he’d seen, he picked up his paintbrush and romanticised the visions. He has created images that are a harmonious blend of otherworldly features and places that are real. Inspired by the landscape masters - painters such as Constable, Turner and Corot - Kadar had adopted many of their approaches. Individual details are recognisable but theatrical lighting, intense weather and compelling compositions take precedence over direct observation. As a consequence, Kadar’s paintings have a timeless quality only found in dreams and the imagination. Taking in his surroundings through a haze of idealism, he is drawn towards forests, mossy glades, green vales and ethereal rivers. These subjects lend themselves to be flattered and recreated into his vision of Arcadia, a version of paradise where – according to Greek mythology – the god of the forest lived alongside his dryads in a virgin wilderness. Depicted in many of Kadar’s scenes are the bucolic landscapes of the Serra da Sintra. When he visited the area he became infatuated by its beauty. A half-tamed wilderness – likened by Byron to a “glorious Eden’” – it continues to be a haven of unspoiled pastoral landscapes. Attracted to paint the flowing watercourses, dramatic skies and sea mists that
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URING A VISIT to Portugal and Spain, the
TASTE PLUS
Orange & cinnamon hot chocolate with cinnamon biscuit dippers A F T E R T H E E X C E S S E S O F C H R I S T M A S , YO U M AY W E L L H AV E M A D E J A N U A R Y A S E N S I B L E - E AT I N G M O N T H . U N T I L , T H AT I S , Y O U ’ V E T R I E D T H I S L I T T L E W A R M E R – A H E AV E N LY T H I C K A N D C R E A M Y H O T C H O C O L AT E PA I R E D W I T H Q U I C K A N D E A S Y B I S C U I T D I P P E R S . N A U G H T Y, Y E S , B U T W E D E S E R V E I T
SERVES 4 - 6
RECIPE
FOR THE ORANGE AND CINNAMON H O T C H O C O L AT E : 570ml whole milk 200g dark chocolate (minimum 60% cocoa solids), roughly chopped 1tsp cornflour 1tbsp cold milk ½ tsp ground cinnamon zest of 1 orange 1½ tbsp sugar (optional, to taste) TO S E RV E : Whipped cream (optional) 2tbsp grated dark chocolate
WE COULDN’T PUT AINSLEY HARRIOTT’S MEDITERRANEAN COOKBOOK (EBURY PRESS) DOWN. ALONGSIDE HIS SUPERFAST MAINS ARE SOME IRRESISTIBLE SWEET TREATS. €23.40 FROM FNAC
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1 For the dippers: preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4 and lightly grease a baking tray with butter. 2 Cream the butter and sugar together with a wooden spoon. Add the flour, cinnamon and orange zest and rub between your fingertips until everything starts to come together. 3 Knead the mixture into a ball, divide into 12 equal pieces and roll each into a sausage, about 1cm thick. Place on baking tray, spaced apart, and sprinkle with the granulated sugar. Bake for 10–12 minutes until lightly golden. Remove from oven and leave to cool. 4 Meanwhile, bring the milk to the boil over a low heat. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate and stir until it has completely melted. 5 In a small bowl, mix the cornflour with the milk. Place the milk back over a low–medium heat and pour in two-thirds of the cornflour mixture, stirring until the mixture begins to thicken. add the rest of the cornflour if necessary and stir well. Add the cinnamon and orange zest and stir to combine. Taste for sweetness and stir in a little sugar if required. 6 Pour the hot chocolate into small cups, top with whipped cream and a sprinkling of chocolate. Serve with the dippers on the side.
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FOR THE BISCUIT DIPPERS: 50g butter, plus extra for greasing 25g caster sugar 75g self–raising flour, plus extra for dusting ¼ tsp ground cinnamon zest of ½ orange 2tsp granulated sugar
M ET HOD
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A MATTER OF TIMING
Despite the views held by some that haircuts should be planned according to moon phases and the Tibetan Calendar, for me a good haircut at least every eight weeks is essential.
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And now it is January. The start of a new year and for many, the start of a new aproach to their regime. In my 35 years behind the chair, I often had and still have clients who only book a haircut based on the moon phases and according the Tibetan Calendar. What is this all about? Let me explain, based on my experience, and with a bit of help from Google. Since 8000BC, farmers have been using the lunar calendar to determine the best planting and harvesting seasons and in many cultures reports are linked to human and animal behaviour, crime rates, health and beauty. And it is said that the waxing moon promotes hair growth. According to the Sutra made by Lama Zopa Rinpoche, you can choose the right and wrong days to have your haircut, based on the Tibetan Calendar. I also found in my research that the basic reason for cutting the crown hair or a complete shave is to free the mind from attachment and deliver liberation! Believers suggest that favourable days of the lunar month to go for a haircut in January are 9th and 10th to bring happiness; 21st to bring longevity; and 22nd for an attractive energy. Apparently, unfavourable lunar days that could lead to loss of vitality are the 1st, 4th, 8th, 25th and 29th of January. For me, however, a good haircut at least every eight weeks is essential. Use professional haircare and styling products – preferably sulphate, paraben and cruelty free – and think more about recycling.
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O QUESTION, 2020 was a year full off bad hair days, with fewer visits to our favourite stylist and some surprisingly homemade experimental hair colours. But somehow, we picked ourselves up, got through those difficult months, and when necessary avoided glancing in the mirror. Before I started off my column for the first issue of AlgarvePLUS for 2021 I looked back at my messages on these pages over the past year. In July, under the heading of Tress Stress, I explained how hard water affects our hair, scalp and colour and I came up with a few suggestions. My August page focused on conditioning and maintaining summer hair colour, face framing looks and a guide line to going grey from roots to ends. In September, the column – It’s a Man Thing – looked at the importance of male grooming while in the following month Face Facts (my personal favourite from 2020), went into detail about face shapes and the styles that work best for each type. November’s Fringe Benefits, talked about autumn hair loss, the fringe season and adding warmth and richness to your hair colour. And then in December, knowing that sometimes it is difficult to get to your chosen salon exactly when you want, I tested top-rated styling tools that will help you produce quality results at home.
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B E AU TI FU L H AI R N EEDS LO O K I N G A F TER . . . A N D E XPERT AT T E N T I O N – E S P E C I A L LY W H E N I T C O M E S T O C U T T I N G – A N D C H O I C E O F P R O D U C T S . J I M VA N H E K LO O K S B AC K O N PA S T A DV I C E A N D F O R WA R D S TO A N E W F U T U R E
I T I S A LWAY S S A I D T H AT C H A R I T Y B E G I N AT H O M E . I F YO U H AV E C H O S E N T O M A K E YO U R H O M E H E R E I N TH E ALGARVE , TH E R E A R E O R G A N I S AT I O N S A N D A S S O C I AT I O N S T H AT W O U L D B E N E F I T F R O M YO U R S U P P O R T IN HELPING THEM MEET THE NEEDS OF THE L E S S F O R T U N AT E
M A K I N G A D I F F E R E N C E DAW N A N N A N DA L E
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HIS HAS been a really tough feature to research and write. But, on the positive side, the goodness of those involved is heartwarming and so genuine. My faith in human nature has been restored whilst talking to some wonderful supporters of the charities detailed here. I don’t want to make this political or critical in any way - the situation is what it is and these charities do an amazing job when times are hard and governments face financial challenges. The people I have met and spoken to are just giving back because they can... and want to help. If you want to know more about any of the organisations, start off by visiting their websites where you will learn about the volunteering possibilities and can also make much-needed donations to their causes. Remember that every little helps, be it time, money or support.
ACCA - Associação de Crianças Carenciadas do Algarve Dedicated to helping children in need across the Algarve, ACCA has spent 20 years delivering lifechanging – and sometimes lifesaving – therapies and medical aid to disadvantaged youngsters who either live below the poverty line, or are orphaned and in care, or who require specialist treatment that is not available to them through Social Services. ACCA is run by a small committee who give their time,
experience and enthusiasm to support the children of the Algarve who are disabled, abused, orphaned or abandoned and the institutions who look after children whose families simply can’t. There are many ways you can help: donations allow funding of key needs but your time, too, can be a major contributor with everything from collecting and delivering parcels, to securing
CHARITY PLUS
Madrugada was established in February 2009 in response to limited choices for end-oflife care in the Algarve. Over the years, this charity has developed an excellence in home-based, palliative care and is highly regarded by both the families of those it helps and by health professionals who have observed the care given. Magrugada works closely with many agencies to ensure patient comfort and peace for those last precious days. The professional palliative care team provides support to anyone of 18 years and over affected by a life-limiting illness. Support is extended to carers and close family members and family and bereavement counselling during illness and after the loss of a loved one is available. The amazing Support Centre
activity sponsorship, to helping at awareness-raising events when those can once again feature on the calendar. ACCA is known for its back-toschool programme which ensures that underprivileged children have all they need to start a new school year, its Christmas Angels scheme created to give every child a reason to smile, and its major annual fund-raising events. acca4kids.com
offers people with a diagnosis of a life-limiting illness and those important to them, support throughout treatment and beyond, by facilitating a range of complementary therapies, psychotherapy, counselling, creative activities, physical activities, group therapy, information and lifestyle advice. All these facilities and services are available free of charge and over the years thousands of hours of support has been given. Madrugada provides an incredible service which eases the difficulties faced by those closest to the patient as well as the patient themselves. Volunteering opportunities include working in a Madrugada shop, carrying out deliveries and collections, helping with fundraising and event hosting. madrugada-portugal.com/ about-what.php#
The professional palliative care team provides support to anyone of 18 years and over affected by a life-limiting illness.
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Madrugada
Wolf Valley supports local people with everything from the payment of medical bills to the provision of respite care whilst tackling homelessness and drug and alcohol addiction. Funds are raised through donations and the organisation of events such as dinners and golf days, craft markets and ladies’ lunches. Based in Vale de Lobo, Wolf Valley considers enquiries and requests for aid from any individual or organisation in the LoulÊ area. A recent donation of a freezer to the Algarve Food Bank has proved a resounding success especially during the current difficult economic situation. The freezer, which cost ₏36,000, is vast, and has enabled the Food Bank to increase the distribution of food significantly as many more companies can now donate food which can be frozen, thus reducing supermarket waste. wolfvalleycharity.com/
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BANCO ALIMENTAR DO ALGARVE
Albufeira humanitarian solidarity association AHSA – the Associação Humanitária Solidariedade Albufeira – was formed in 1999 after a number of people had come together to raise funds to help a young man with a serious illness for which there was treatment available in the USA, but not here in Portugal. Despite their valiant efforts, the young man sadly died, but those involved recognised that there were many others in desperate need of help. The first major project undertaken was to provide food support to needy families in Albufeira. Each case was thoroughly vetted and care taken to ensure that money and services were only given to those most in need. AHSA began to organise fundraising events and has continued to grow over its two decades; the food bank has become vital during the past year with many more families relying on the generosity of AHSA during the pandemic and the resulting economic collapse. A day centre for the elderly provides welcome respite for the families of the over 65s, providing food and medical care, communication between the family and social services and hospitals as well as addressing mental health issues. This is a real community-based grassroots charity that has been able to accomplish so much thanks to its dedicated supporters. ahsa.com.pt/
Twice a year, over a weekend, volunteers take up position in supermarkets, asking shoppers to buy and donate basic food stuffs. What is collected goes to the warehouse in Faro where more volunteers sort and help store goods. The Food Bank Against Hunger in the Algarve collected a total of 140 tonnes of foodstuffs in the campaign carried out on the weekend of 30 November and 1 December 2019. This is a vital venture that produces real results. bancoalimentar. pt
PORTUGAL CHARITY CHAT ROOM There are many amazing people, all with different expertise, some working at grass roots level and needing help; others with fabulous ideas but no time to act on them; still more who want to help but don’t know where they can be useful. There are people who have things to donate but don’t know who could make best use of it. The aim of the Portugal Charity Chat room Facebook group is to bring these all these people together so that contacts and advice can be shared. Contact: carolinelangston@ btinternet.com
SOUP KITCHEN PORTIMAO Meals are served to around 70 people three times a week (that’s 80 litres of home-made soup and 500 sandwiches). You can assist by setting tables, washing dishes and serving food, donating food, or helping cover the weekly costs. Contact: joy@borgan.info
ROTARY Almancil international Rotary Club is asking for donations to purchase food for people in need in the Almancil area and working with two organisations, ASCA and Refood. Donations can be made to: Rotary food crisis Project Bank a/c: AIRC Charity Fellowship Assoc. IBAN: PT50 0010 0000 5558 1140 00116 rotaryalmancil.org
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If you have a few hours to spare either regularly or occasionally why not consider donating your time and energy to a special cause? Perhaps a charity shop or maybe one of the food bank donation sites who need collectors, drivers, distributors? In these difficult times of restrictions, many regular sources of income have sadly stopped so charities need to be innovative with their revenue streams. I f yo u a re i nvo l ve d i n a c h a r i t y, g i ve u s t h e d e t a i l s . A l g a r ve P LU S w i l l a l w ay s f i n d ro o m to p ro m o te g o o d c a u s e s .
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T: +351 289 397 165 E: info@cape-gardens.com W: cape-gardens.com
toldolanda.com 914609517
Toldolanda
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TA S T E S
g reat ...
Birds Nest T U C K ED AWAY I N TH E O U TS K I RTS O F B O LI Q U I EM E I S O N E O F TH E C ENTR A L A LGA RV E' S S P EC IA L R E S TAU R A NTS . C A N YO U K EEP A S EC R E T ?
O
RIGINALLY a small local
restaurant in the quiet of Tencoca, just west of Loulé, it became the home of the Osborne family 35 years ago. In 2010, after completing an ambitious extension and renovation programme, Rita Osborne and family member, the late Kay Breen opened the doors to Birds Nest, recognising the potential for an elegant dining experience in a rural setting, one that residents would love, and choose to return to time and time again. The menu, a composition carefully put together by chef James Wall and executive chef Christopher Sloan, changes with the seasons but certain dishes that
have proven to be all-time favourites remain in the repertoire – mature Cheddar cheese soufflé, slowbraised Irish brisket, rack of lamb and Black Angus sirloin. And the Birds Nest variation on traditional fishcakes alone is worth a visit. Cheesecake Creme Brûlée and Chocy Wockey Doodah with homemade raspberry sorbet come up time and time again as mostwanted puds, Unsurprisingly, it was impossible to get a table for Christmas or New Year meals unless a booking had been made well in advance. Those who were lucky enough to celebrate there did so in style, in surroundings dressed for the occasion with the
FOOD Sophisticated international flavours using the best ingredients
DECOR Classically elegant, with white linen tablecloths, fine china and cutlery
PRICE Starters from €6.95 Mains from €18.50 Desserts €6.50
B I R D S N E S T , R . d e V a l e d e S i l v e s , R . d e Te n o c a , B o l i q u e i m e / T :
2 89 366 47 1
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subtle sparkle of soft lights. The delight of a stylish environment – designed by Rita Osborne and dressed with many of the decorative pieces collected across years of travel – and the unfaltering promise of cooking with infinite care, makes this longstanding restaurant a real treat and, right now, with many restrictions in place and all guidelines oberserved, you feel you are eating out safely. Vegetarians, vegans, and those with allergies are perfectly served with special dishes designed to delight rather than the play-it-safe uninteresting options offered by so many other restaurants. Carnivores, meanwhile, can never get enough here; the slow-roast pork belly, served with creamed potatoes, crackling and cider jus is something of a sensation. Front of house Stephen Eggleton and Sandra Osborne-Lewis, daughter of Rita and James Osborne, are passionate about their restaurant, their food and their clients... and in these still difficult times, that makes a real difference. Sandra is optimistic about 2021 and looks forward to a better year for everyone. Birds Nest currently seats 32 inside and, when the weather warms up, 12 in the outside courtyard. The restaurant is open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday, from 7pm to 9pm (9.30pm on Friday), and on Sundays for lunch from 12-noon to 3pm. Time to plan a visit.
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‘Vegetarians are always well looked after’
of the month
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PROPERTY
PEACE, QUIET AND OUTSTANDING VIEWS SINGLE-STORE Y LIVING IN THE GLORIOUS HILLS OF LOULÉ, WITH SWEEPING L ANDSCAPED GROUNDS THAT INCLUDE AN ORCHARD AND SCENTED ROSE GARDEN
Built in 2002 and with great attention to detail Four bedrooms and four bathrooms, plus guest cloakroom
Spacious living room with wood-burning stove Separate elegant dining room with beautiful brick dome ceiling
Double-glazed windows, aluminium shutters, mosquito nets
Gas central heating throughout
Large fully equipped kitchen with family-size breakfast bar and that all-important large utility room
Alarm, central vacuum cleaning system, solar system
Mains water, licensed borehole
Large swimming pool
Plot size: 7,022m2, walled and fenced
Total construction area: 299m2
Energy certificate: E
Price: €875,000
Ref: DZO
T O V I E W : T: +3 5 1 2 8 9 3 0 1 2 9 4 / E : i n f o @ y e l l o w h o m e s . c o m / W : y e l l o w h o m e s . c o m
In search of your own, private space? This beautiful villa is set in vast grounds in the hills where the sky is an ever-changing picture and the views are spectacular year round. Designer details add to the property’s charm.
PROPERTY PLUS
BEDROOMS
Four spacious bedrooms with built-in wardrobes
B AT H R O O M S
Four bathrooms and a separate cloakroom
GAR AGE
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Automatic doors and internal access to the villa
POOL
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Big and beautiful – 12x6m – on its own terrace
Vilamoura Office EN125 Benfarras Boliqueime 8100-068 Boliqueime T: +351 289 301 294 Tavira Office Rua Dr. Jose Padinha 178 8800-354 Tavira T: +351 281 320 281 AMI: 6232
READS PLUS
FULLY
booked
FIRST DATE
TARGET CHURCHILL
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By Sue Watson Publisher: Bookouture Genre: Thriller
By Warren Adler and James C Humes Publisher: Stonehouse Press Genre: Historical It’s 1946 and the Americans and British are celebrating a victorious end to the Second World War – all except Winston Churchill, who has lost an election to Clement Attlee, lost his good friend Franklin D Roosevelt, and feels what he calls his ‘black dog’ breathing down his neck. In order to stave off Churchill’s waning moods, his family and friends convince him to accept an invitation from Harry S Truman, to speak at a college in Fulton, Missouri. The result is one of Churchill’s most famous speeches, in which he famously likened the spread of Soviet communism in Eastern Europe to an iron curtain. The phrase stuck. This is a meticulously researched thriller and it’s hard to tell what is fact and what is fiction. I found myself googling constantly to fact-check and was amazed to find that it’s a fairly accurate account of events. An absolutely fascinating book and highly recommended for all those who enjoy Le Carre and Forsythe.
ALGARVE PLUS
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DAW N A N N A N DA L E ’ S E N T R Y I N T H E ‘ G E T P U B L I S H E D ’ C O M P E T I T I O N WA S C H O S E N A S THE WINNER BY THE CONRAD PRESS AND IT WILL BE PUBLISHING HER BOOK IN THE SPRING. IN THE MEANTIME, THERE’S LOT S TO R E A D – H E R E A R E DAW N ’ S L AT E S T T O P C H O I C E S
This book is a warning to all you singles out there. Scary stuff that just goes to show how careful you need to be when thinking of joining Tinder! It’s the story of Hannah and her pursuit of happiness. She’s been waiting her whole life to meet a man like Alex. But he’s been waiting too. And once he has her, he’ll never let her go. Hannah has done everything to make sure her life is safe and secure and a long way away from her unstable childhood in foster care. She worries that, aged 36, she might never fall in love but, otherwise, her life is where she wants it to be. Encouraged by her best friend to join a dating app, she meets Alex. He’s irresistibly handsome. He loves the same music as her. And the same food as well. They both dream of travelling the world but agree they would be equally happy escaping to a cottage by the beach in Devon. Both of them would love to own a Labrador one day. It’s like he’s made for her. It’s as if he’s too good to be true. Hannah’s friends aren’t so sure about him. But Hannah thinks he’s perfect. And this is where the scary bit starts but I won’t spoil it for you from here.
THE EVENING AND THE MORNING
A DEL OF A LIFE
By Ken Follett Publisher: MacMillan Genre: Historical fiction
By Sir David Jason Publisher: Century Genre: Biography
Ken Follett is one of my favourite writers and I am constantly amazed at the depths of his skill. The book begins in the year 997, the end of the Dark Ages. England is facing attacks from the Welsh in the west and the Vikings in the east. Those in power bend justice according to their will, regardless of ordinary people and often in conflict with the king. Without a clear rule of law, chaos reigns. In these turbulent times, three characters find their lives intertwined. A young boatbuilder’s life is turned upside down when the only home he’s ever known is raided by Vikings, forcing him and his family to move and start their lives anew in a small hamlet where he does not fit in. A Norman noblewoman marries for love, following her husband across the sea to a new land but, finding the customs of her husband’s homeland shockingly different, she begins to realise that everyone around her is engaged in a constant, brutal battle for power. A monk dreams of transforming his humble abbey into a centre of learning that will be admired throughout Europe. A fabulous tale of power, corruption, oppression and how dire human nature can be. Fabulously descriptive – I can almost smell the woodsmoke and taste the ale. Ken Follett possesses a quite marvellous ability to transport you to another time and place, which feels totally real.
Sir David Jason must be one of the most successful British comedians of all time. As Del Boy, he entertained us for years and we all remember those classic scenes from Only Fools and Horses such as the Batman and Robin Christmas special or Del leaning on the vanishing bar. This book is a celebration of David Jason’s 80th birthday and over 50 years in show business. It is funny, chatty and packed with anecdotes to make you laugh out loud. David talks about his time as Frost, Granville and Pop Larkin among his many other film and television roles. He comes across as a thoroughly decent chap and definitely someone on my dinner-party wish-list. People do throw about words like ‘icon’ and ‘legend’ but in the case of David Jason they are thoroughly well deserved.
A YEAR AT THE CHÂTEAU By Dick and Angel Strawbridge Publisher: Hachette Genre: Modern life
ALL THE LONELY PEOPLE By Mike Gayle Publisher: Hodder & Stoughton Genre: Modern fiction I loved this gentle book. In weekly phone calls to his daughter in Australia, widower Hubert Bird paints a picture of the perfect retirement, packed with fun, friendship and fulfilment. But, Hubert Bird is lying. The truth is that day after day drags by without him seeing a single soul. Until, that is, he receives some good news – good news that in one way turns out to be the worst news ever, news that will force him out again into a world of which he has long since turned his back. The best way I can describe this author’s work is that it’s chap-lit; a kind of chick-lit for fellas. Always poignant and thought-provoking but in a simplistic way. I’ve been reading Mike Gayle’s work for years now and he constantly comes up with great books whose subject matter is totally relatable.
Book of the month
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READS PLUS
I absolutely adore this British TV show. Dick and Angel had long dreamed of living in France, but whereas others might settle for a modest bolthole in the French countryside, the Strawbridges fell in love with a 19th-century fairytale château, complete with 45 rooms, seven outbuildings, 12 acres of land and its own moat. Granted, the château had been abandoned for many years and was derelict but it was the most incredible challenge. A Year at the Château follows Dick and Angel and their two young children, Arthur and Dorothy, from when they first moved to France in the depths of winter and found bedrooms infested with flies, turrets inhabited by bats, the wind rattling through cracked windows and, just one working toilet, which flushed into the moat, through to the monumental efforts that went into readying the château for their unforgettable wedding and their special first Christmas. The photos are glorious as are descriptions of rural life in France, with charming characters, delicious food and wonderful seasonal produce, together with the extraordinary list of renovations and restorations Dick and Angel completed, many of which were never shown on TV. I have nothing but admiration for this remarkable couple who have not only followed their dream but are living it daily thanks to their hard work and tenacity.
ADICO BY IN-PETTO In order to see the outdoor collection of Adico please arrange an appointment to visit us.
www.adico.pt Rua dos Mailhadais 126 8100-082 Boliqueime
www.in-petto.nl groothandel@in-petto.nl 00 351 910 440 728 in_petto_groothandel
GROW
your
Wo rd s:
ow n C AT H Y L E I B M A N
GARDENING PLUS
K E E N C O O K S K N O W T H E R E I S L I T T L E M O R E S AT I S F Y I N G T H A N H O M E G R O W N I N G R E D I E N T S – F R E S H LY - P I C K E D V E G E TA B L E S A N D H E R B S NURTURED FROM SEED OR A SPRIG OF GREEN. THIS IS THE MONTH TO
M
Y 85-YEAR-OLD FATHER, a plantsman, boasts that our family home garden maintains itself, yet I know that his relationship with the earth, his green thumb and fingers alongside patience and nurturing have created a space that not only provided a respite from working hours, but also an Eden of colour and fragrance in our neighbourhood. Terracottta pots of rosemary, coriander, basil and mint stand alongside tubs overflowing with succulents. The front lawn is a cornucopia of colours depending on the season, and his indoor solarium holds palms of sacramento-green fronds, Phalaenopsis orchids and hanging baskets with creeping fern fronds. He is indeed a horticulturist; a gardener. I have the inclination, yet no talent and believe I am deficient in this gene. Nevertheless, I have aesthetic sensibilities and adore wandering in nature, visiting botanical gardens, foraging in local markets and dreaming of paddock-to-table produce. As a novice, yet hungry gardener, I turned to Rosie Peddle who, with husband Rob, is part of the group of founding members of the Mediterranean Gardening Association Portugal (MGAP). Living in the Algarve, the biodiversity of native plants combined with our extraordinary climate make the perfect ingredients for gardening and farming. Achieving a sustainable garden in a region where sun is optimal, and irrigation of soils may
be limited due to low rainfall, means planting must take place between October-May. During our summer months, allow plants to grow organically, watering native plants only when needed – which may be just once a month. An important piece of advice from Rosie and Rob is not to blame yourself if your plants die!
Planning it out For beginners, many start with huge enthusiasm, and a small space. This is the ideal combination. Divide this space into zones – edible, shrubs and plants – and use water wisely. Edible gardens do require more water so steer away from irrigation systems which could ruin crops and soil with over-watering. Purchase good quality, rich soil for use in raised beds and head to the market to buy seeds or small seedlings to plant. Rosie emphasizes that a positive attitude – and an astute awareness that you are an active element in this creative process – is the fun part of having a garden. Gardening is a learning process that is perfected through the sharing of ideas and experiences, in addition to being proven to be great for mental health. We all need those mental health days… January is historically the coldest month of the year. Yet, in comparison to the rest of European winter this is quite warm with highs up to 16°C. Moreover, we can expect around 200mm rain, therefore remember to sow seeds after sunny days have warmed the moist soil. So what should we be planting in January for our edible garden?
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G E T B U SY – B E YO U R VEG G I E P LOT A TU B O N TH E TE R R AC E O R A B I G
GARDENING PLUS
VEGETABLES
B R OA D B E A N S Sow seeds as a crop, 5-7.5cm deep and 15-20cm apart; allow to grow through winter and harvest in April when they are visibly swollen. Use green beans in the typical Portuguese dish, Favas com chouriço (broad beans with chourizo) or Favas com entrecosto (broad beans with spare ribs). Utterly delicious small beans are sweeter and more tender than large ones and can be picked when immature to be cooked and eaten whole. The added bonus is the fragrant flowers that are produced while the plants are maturing.
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L E T T U C E Decide which variety of lettuce to plant and you can have lettuce almost all year round – different colours, flavours and textures which means no more boring salads. Grow lettuce on moist soil, about 10-15mm deep and in rows 30cm apart. As soon as first leaves appear, thin seedlings and water in the early morning when the soil is dry. The seedlings you thin out can be washed and eaten too, and ensure you harvest lettuces by cutting rather than pulling. P E A S are ideal companion plantings to beans, carrots, leeks, turnips, sage, fennel and celery leading to efficiencies in output and disease control. Plant peas 3cm deep in a trench roughly 22cm wide and about 10cm apart. They do well on all types of soil, yet their preferred is fresh, soft and well-drained. Usually, between 12-14 weeks, one can harvest the first tender, super-sweet home-grown peas – an attractive crop which won’t take up too much space. Add them to Ovos escalfados com ervilhas (poached eggs with peas).
during the winter, gardeners only need to consider weeding postsowing. Place potatoes in moist, fertile trenches about 30-45cm apart and 15cm deep, then cover with soil to fill the trench. When shoots reach 20cm tall, mound soil around the bases of the shoots, covering stems half-way. This is called ‘earthing up’ and prevents potatoes becoming green and inedible. Once THINK ORGANIC harvested from your kitchen garden, boil, drench in olive oil, lemon and salt. Mouthfuls of deliciousness! Now that you have successfully created
your kitchen garden, maintenance involves weeding around your tender shoots and preparing summer vegetable beds by digging in manure. We encourage an organic philosophy, hence companion gardening will control pests and increase your veggie and herb output naturally.
O N I O N S are a versatile crop and a huge staple in Portuguese cooking. The typical refogado (braised onion) is a base for several local dishes, therefore adding this to your garden is a must. We suggest sowing onion seeds in a pot or tray of compost about 1cm apart and once seedlings are about 5cm tall, transplant into the garden 10–15cm apart, with just the tips showing, allowing 30cm between rows. Onions are ready to harvest when their leaves droop over, turn brown and stop growing. Loosen the soil with a fork, lift onions and leave them to dry before storing. Basil is a good friend to onions, helping repel aphids and other insects, so plant nearby. P OTATO E S The humble potato
needs no introduction. This starchy tuber is a family favourite and is ideally sowed in January, emerging from the soil in February and ready to harvest at the end of April. We recommend certified seed potatoes as they are guaranteed to be virus-free and with our ideal Algarvian weather
B EA N S With dill
LETTU CE With chervil, dill, fennel, carrots, turnips and garlic
HERBS
Rosemary, parsley, coriander, thyme, oregano, bay leaves, and sage – fresh herbs in your cooking adds that extra zest to your menu and fills your garden with aromatic, lush and colourful gastronomic complements. As an alternative, fill pretty pots with no more than three herbs and place in a sunny position; perhaps combine a woody rosemary with parsley. Purchase rosemary, mint and sage as plants and grow the following herbs from seed – basil, coriander, parsley.
shopping around
Standholders at the weekly and monthly local markets always include PEAS With beans, specialist growers of vegetable carrots, leeks, turnips, seedlings and ready-to-plant herbs. sage, fennel and celery The stalls outside Loulé’s Municipal marker on Saturday offer real choice and excellent quality. Also in Loulé is a ON I ON S With small shop, Ricardo & Cesar, opposite carrots, beets, tomatoes, the school next to McDonald’s which, chamomile and parsley in addition to herbs and veggie plants, has an excellent range of fruit trees. Worth investigating is Sementes POTATOES With Vivas, from whom you can buy online. marigolds, peas, beans Founded in 2015, it is the only Iberian and garlic company dedicated to producing – on its own farmland – organic and biodynamic certified seeds, which are sold across the world. Visit sementesvivas.bio for a big range of fruit crops, legumes, root vegetables and greens, as well as edible flowers and annual and perennial herbs. The planting information and tips on the site are invaluable.
When I first met ceramic artists who wanted to showcase their collections in my shop, I knew what I liked but had little idea of the complexity of their work and the processes behind the production of their pots and platters and bowls. And no clue whatsoever about clay or the glazes or even the timespan from concept to execution to finished piece. So, when I heard about a workshop in the old pottery in Loulé, I enrolled immediately, and a completely new world opened up to me. By the time I made my first pinch pots, I had learned about the different kinds of clay, about glazes and engobes, about firing temperatures and how to stock a kiln. But mainly I learned how impatient I am.
and friends and today, every now and then,
Now, two years later, I am the owner of
a less unattractive piece made by my own
a variety of ugly plates, some unround
hands finds its way into my shop and from
bowls (one for my ignorant cat) and
there into the home of a new owner.
a butter dish which looks more like an architect’s model of a building. But for me these pieces are unique and beautiful and I love every single one.
Rua 5 de Outubro nº 68 . Loul é . +351 964 222 612 Insta gram: www.insta gram.com/martina.loul e/
It took some time before I felt brave
Fa cebook: www.fa cebook.com/martina.loul e/
enough to show my work to family
www.martina-loul e.com
HISTORY PLUS
OUR READERS, IT SEEMS, ARE FA S C I N AT E D B Y T H E H I S T O R Y OF PORTUGAL AND WE CAN’T GO MUCH FURTHER BACK THAN THE EARLIEST PEOPLE WHO M AY H AV E A R R I V E D H E R E 60,000 YEARS AGO. THERE REMAINS EVIDENCE STILL OF THEIR LIVES IN IBERIA
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C A R O LY N K A I N
20,000 years ago Inside a limestone cave in a valley north of Lisbon, a fouryear-old child is laid to take his final rest. In a shallow pit lined with the branches of a pine tree, his head and body are liberally scattered with red ochre. A pendant with two periwinkle shells has been placed around the boy’s neck and encircling his head, an ornamental garland that includes the teeth of a roe deer. Cradled in a foetal position, beside his bent knees a rabbit is placed in reaching distance. It is a tender ending to a young life that gives us an insight into emotions experienced by early people who inhabited Portugal.
40,000 years ago The first modern humans, Homo sapiens, reached southern Portugal, supplanting groups of Neanderthals that were already established on the Iberian Peninsula. A recent scientific study produced by an international research team in Faro and published in November 2020 asserts that these modern people arrived 5,000 years earlier than previously thought. That is 38,000 – and possibly 41,000 – years ago. These conclusions are based on evidence found in two other Portuguese caves located close to each other near the Atlantic coast. The interdisciplinary team of scientists suggests that for around a thousand years, Neanderthals and modern humans may have come
I N
T H E
beg innin g…
60,000 years ago It is clear that the group from which all Europeans and Asians are descended originated in Africa. It is possible that
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to reach Iberia some of the journey may have been along the coast. One crossing point that has been suggested is via the Straits of Gibraltar. Another more circuitous route to Iberia may have been via the Horn of Africa, crossing the Arabian Peninsula and travelling on east-west flowing rivers.
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across each other and perhaps occasionally interbred. Neanderthals, however, became extinct while modern humans didn’t. It would be wrong to assume that this was due to continuous conflict and that in skirmish after skirmish modern humans won. A more plausible theory asserts that it was probably due to differing lifestyles. Modern humans used a system that divided labour between men – the hunters – and women and children – the gatherers, collecting fruit and vegetables. Meanwhile, Neanderthals relied almost entirely on hunting. Kills were made at close range exposing them to frequent danger and when that went wrong they had no nutritional buffer to rely on. Furthermore, operating in groups that were smaller than the groups of modern humans probably made them particularly vulnerable to natural disasters. Although Neanderthals had spoken communication – as evidenced by the presence of the hyoid bone, situated at the base of the tongue and associated with the voice box – it is assumed their language was less complex than modern humans who were better able to communicate and plan ahead. A further scientific study concludes that Neanderthals had a 40 per cent lower reproductive fitness than modern humans and that by living in small, sparse groups they may have become fatally interbred. ´ The extinction of Neanderthals happened across Europe at different times in different regions due to a combination of factors but some of the last survivors lived in Iberia. They were pressed westwards into Portugal, the high mountains of Spain and along the peninsula’s coastal strip. Certainly the few remaining groups cannot have been aware of their status as ‘the last of a dying species’.
Further back in time Whichever route they travelled, by the time this exodus took place the Homo line had been developing in Africa for eight million years. Around four million years ago there is evidence of a switch from being four-footed creatures to upright walking. A complex mix of our ancestral cousins lived parallel lives in Africa; they were a geographically and biologically separated species that in the long term left no descendants. Some branches, however, were more successful than others such as Homo erectus who lived from about one and a half million years to 300,000 years ago. The facial features and prominent brow ridges of the Homo erectus figures in the picture on the opposite page have been created by latex masks. Designed on the basis of scientific measurements of Homo erectus skulls they are thought to be accurate. Examination of Homo erectus skeletons reveals their physique was much like that of modern people though they were slightly stockier. Over generations sweat glands and dark skin – to protect them against ultra-violet rays – replaced a covering of thick body hair. In search of food they adopted a nomadic lifestyle but, like the Homo sapiens, they were not on a quest to find adventure or to conquer a new world. Each generation probably travelled no more than a few kilometres looking for improved surroundings and suitable food. Controversy continues about how closely Homo erectus and Neanderthals are related to modern humans. We know that the Homo sapiens line started about half a million years ago in Africa and that it took 460,000 of those years before their descendants reached Portugal. Of one fact we can be absolutely certain - they were and definitely are still here.
For fur ther information see: Publication: Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences Organisation in Fa r o : n t e r d i s c i p l i n a r y C e n t r e f o r A r c h a e o l o g y a n d E v o l u t i o n o f H u m a n B e h a v i o r.
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Opposite page: Reconstruction - Homo erectus figures by lakeside. ©Peter Kain This page: Goram’s Cave – Rock of Gibraltar – home to Neanderthals and later to Homo sapiens ©Professor Nuno Ferreira Bicho
They were pressed into Portugal, the high mountains of Spain and along the peninsula’s coast
WA LKI N G
th e
walk
LOULÉ-BASED CHARLIE PERRING HAS BEEN THERE AND DONE I T, T R AV E R S I N G T H E 3 0 1 K M V I A A L G AV I A N A F R O M A L C O U T I M TO CAPE ST VICENTE IN JUST S I X D AY S , A S O P P O S E D T O T H E USUAL 14 OR 15. HE UNDERTOOK H I S ‘ L O N G WAY A C R O S S ' T O RAISE FUNDS FOR THE WILDLIFE RANGER CHALLENGE ORGANISED BY BRITISH CHARIT Y TUSK
THERE WERE A few raised eyebrows when I told
people it was my intention to walk the GR13 trail non-stop and with only short breaks for food and a little shut eye as and when my body needed it. To put the walk into some sort of perspective, the length of the trail has an accumulated ascent and descent of just under 8,300m respectively – that’s the equivalent of climbing up Cho Oyu in the High Himalaya, or 600m shy of Everest’s summit. I set out at 8am sharp on a Monday morning, relishing the prospects of discovering the variety of terrain that the trail would take me though. The Algarve had heavy rainfall in the previous week and there was the inevitable aftermath from the downpours. Within the first kilometre out of Alcoutim, there were steady streams of water flowing down the trail and my boots and feet quickly became damp, then wet – every walker's nightmare. Water and friction inside a boot don’t bode well for blisters. I knew I had four rivers to cross as I made my way down to Furnazinhas. Armed with my walking ‘crook’, I managed to find a calf-high route through the first river, which was fairly straightforward and the second and third crossings were
pretty similar, albeit eating into the rhythm of the walk with the inevitable ‘boots and socks off, flip flops on, dry feet, boots and socks back on’ routine. When I descended down to the Foupana River and my fourth crossing, I saw the frothing white tops of the water and that the river was in full spate. I contemplated a U-turn, back track and road bridge crossing, but that seemed a little defeatist to me and, after all, leading expeditions is what I do for a living, so it was time to put the training into practice and go full ‘Commando’. With everything secured in dry bags inside my pack and clad in just a pair of shorts, I eased my way into the water. I had about 40m of fast-flowing water to cross and the river had me thigh high deep
until I reached a little sand island midway across. On the other side of the island things were about to become really sporty, as I could see the river narrow and its speed pick up. Time to take the plunge! Within a few metres the rushing current was up to my thighs then, a few steps later, my waist. The force of the water already beginning to buckle my legs and threatening to wash me out to the Guadiana. A few deep breaths and some careful planting of my crook had me rib high into the full force of the flow and it was there, at the most treacherous point of the crossing, that I had one of those rare moments of clarity. Everything slowed down to point where I momentarily stopped, letting the current wash past me, knowing that it could sweep me away anytime but not allowing myself to be overawed
There were steady streams of water flowing down the trail and my boots and feet quickly became damp, then wet – every walker's nightmare.
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Top: Looking down on the curve of the River Foupana. Above: The trail up to the tallest mountain in the Algarve. Below: The swirling early morning mists that add a hint of mystery to the hills and vales
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by the situation. In fact, I was rather enjoying myself, both of us hell bent on reaching our objectives, the river reaching the sea and me the other side of the bank. Half an hour later, as I ascended the exit gully, I looked back with great respect to the river and its unrelenting journey, but it was only as I trudged into Furnazinhas that I realised quite how tired I was and how the water had managed to seep its way into most of my kit. I hunkered down in a bus shelter as it grew dark and considered how do handle my walk into the night. I’d covered about 38km since breakfast and wanted to push onto Cachopo and my first rendezvous with Jo, who was driving out with some food and water. Yet I was concerned about more river crossings, especially at night - if I slipped and my kit got soaked, I’d be in real danger of getting hypothermia as the temperature was dropping fast into single digits. After a few hours of rest, I gathered myself together and by following the marked trail and using detours to cross the rivers via the road bridges, I was soon engulfed in the darkness and heading west. It’s an unsettling thing walking in darkness
with just the beam of the head torch showing the way; your field of vision becomes narrow, and unfamiliar sounds just off the path become unjustly ominous. The secret is to relax and turn out the light when you can and let the eyes adjust to night vision, embracing a world with which we’re mostly unaccustomed. At about 2am and with clear skies above, the constellations were quite staggering – thousands and thousands of stars and planets filled the night sky and every once in a while I was treated to a shooting star entering the earth’s atmosphere, disintegrating like a flailing firework, its long journey through the galaxy finally ended. As the sun begin to rise on the second
morning, I walked into Cachopo and was relieved to see Jo with a hot thermos and a bacon sandwich. One look at me and she knew that I’d taken a bit of a battering over the previous 80-plus kilometres and set about sorting out my feet which were pretty shredded and thoroughly blistered. After a couple of hours rest, she sent me on my way to Barranco de Velho, one of the most challenging sections of the trail where the moment you gain height, it’s immediately taken away from you again. It seems like an endless rollercoaster of terrain which, although beautiful, you can never fully enjoy. Fortunately, with about 10km to go, my good friend Nick Robinson joined me on the trail, providing some much needed company and distraction from my feet. The weather late that afternoon was glorious
Above: The pine forests outside Cachopo. Centre: The bacon sandwich - did one ever taste this good? Below: The last stretch of the journey, with the lighthouse at Cape St Vincent in the distance, 301km from the start of the trail in Alcoutim
change of habitat back to the indigenous flora and fauna, there’s still so much more to be done to redress what’s been lost over the decades. After six days, seven hours and 58 minutes, the lighthouse of Cape St Vincent came into sight and I was at the end of my journey. The mind had prevailed over the body as I was undoubtedly pretty spent and walking on autopilot by this stage. But, most importantly, through the generosity of so many people and a little effort on my part, we’d manage to raise over £3,000 for the Wildlife Ranger Challenge charity that advances wildlife conservation across Africa – a sum that would be doubled with matching funds, to get rangers and the equipment they need back into the field. Would I do it again? After a few weeks' rest and reflection, absolutely, but next time round, I'd do it in the spring!
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and although still a few days away, I knew I’d broken the back of the walk and a brief glimpse of the coastline was all the encouragement I needed to finish the Long Way Across. I kept a steady pace through Bensafrim and Vila Do Bispo and the salt air of the sea began filling my nostrils. The end was nearly in sight. As I crossed the natural park outside of Vila do Bispo, the irony of my walk’s purpose wasn’t lost on me as I chatted with a local shooting party. For the best part of 280km, I’d hardly seen any wildlife; a few grouse in the first 24 hours, a single boar, four rabbits and an otter near Marmalete. Sadly, so much wildlife has been shot or trapped over the decades and although great efforts are being made with Lynx release programmes and a gradual
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Above: A couple enjoying the view from the highest point in the Algarve, at Fóia. Below: First the wild boar, then the big view down to Monchique, where coffee beckons
ALGARVE P L U S
and with the recent rains injecting vibrancy into the flora and fauna, we walked and chatted happily through this stunning section of the Algarve. After stopping off at a little stream and putting the world to rights, we started off again, only for Nick to tell me that his car was 500m away and asking if I wanted a lift. I was severely tempted, but waving my goodbyes, I headed on up the hill for another hour, cursing quietly under my breath that I wasn’t being whisked up there by four wheels. From Barranco de Velho to Messines, the trail cuts through the Barrocal, the farming heartland of the Algarve. Thankfully, the climbs and descents eased and little towns and villages become more frequent, giving me the opportunity to top up my water and enjoy a tosta mista or two in the cafés I passed by. Further on, Messines to Silves is a beautiful section of the trail, with a long meander along the track that flanks the Funcho Reservoir until reaching the dam that straddles the Rio Arade, before traversing through a deep forested valley. It was here as dusk approached that I flushed out my first wild boar. As I started my ascent from the valley floor up to higher ground, I was suddenly startled by a huge grunt and crashing through the undergrowth some four or five metres below, followed by a brief glimpse of thick matted brown hair on a back as broad as a barn door, thankfully heading away from me. I spent the next few hours making my presence known with some renditions of Men of Harlech and calls of ‘hey, boar’ – I certainly didn’t want to run into one of the big fellas in the dark. I’d been lucky with the weather over the first few days of the walk, but as I climbed up towards Monchique, the forecast was a little foreboding and I wanted to reach the high point of the trail before dark and be off the mountain should a thunderstorm roll in. To my delight, some good friends had driven up to meet me and had been waiting for my arrival in the main square. Despite coffee and a short rest being the intention, I gratefully accepted a small – and in my mind, well-deserved – beer, but just as it arrived the cloud rolled in, the skies darkened and the rain came down in buckets. Plan B was immediately implemented – to stay where I was and resume my walk in the early hours of the morning. After an early start to reach the summit of Foia, it was all downhill to Cape St Vincent,
I N T E R P R E TAT I O N S
FA S T T H I N K I N G . . . A N D W E ’ R E TA L K I N G S P E E D H E R E . TO S O M E T H AT ’ S A R U N , O R A R AC E , TO OT H E R S A S U D D E N M OV E M E N T, O R A B I T O F T E C H N O W I Z A R D R Y. Y E T AG A I N , T H E H A P P Y S N A P P E R S I N T H E A LG A R V E P H OTO G R A P H E R S ’ G R O U P E AC H H A D T H E I R O W N V I E W S
RUTH VERA RUNNING WHERE Naples, Italy WHEN March 2018 W H AT ' S S P E C I A L Walls of a subway station with a sea panorama. A DV I C E Introducing fun and personality makes a difference. CAMERA Fuji XT20
ERNST NEIDHARDT A SPLASH WHERE At home in quarantine WHEN October 2020 W H AT ' S S P E C I A L Open camera shutter/ bulb f:11. Flash 10 000`sec.
A DV I C E Take time to experiment. CAMERA Nikon D810 with AF-S Micro Nikkor 105 mm 1:2,8G ED VR
PHOTOGRAPHY PLUS
VIET MUELLER V O LTA D O ALGARVE WHERE Clareanes/Loulé WHEN February 2014 W H AT ' S S P E C I A L The image shows the speed. TIPS FOR OTHERS You can show speed by blurring the background or the object; in this case I did both.
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CAMERA Nikon D-800
DARYL GABIN SPEED LIMIT 80 WHERE Faro WHEN 2013 WHAT'S SPECIAL Taken handheld (no tripod). A DV I C E A slow shutter speed is required for this type of shot so best to use a tripod. If not, be sure to keep your hands and arms very steady. CAMERA Canon 7D
THE ALGARVE PHOTOGRAPHERS GROUP The Algar ve Photographers Group exhibition Shadows , Silhouettes , Reflections in M o n o c h r o m e i s o n n o w a t t h e M u s e u d o Tr a j e , u n t i l 2 7 J a n u a r y 2 0 2 1 . To l e a r n m o r e a b o u t the group visit algar vephotographersgroup.org. Check with the Museu on 9 66 329 073 to se e wh e n doors will b e op e n to th e n ex t show.
TECHNO PLUS
VOICING OPINIONS WA N T A B L A S T O F M U S I C ? O R T O K N O W W H AT T H E W E AT H E R ’ S L I K E I N A U S T R A L I A ? YO U C A N LO O K U P E V ERY TH I N G ON THE INTERNET – BUT W O U L D N ’ T Y O U R AT H E R H AV E S O M E O N E T O TA L K T O … A N D ORDER AROUND? 59
CH R I S PAR TR I DG E
S
MART SPEAKERS and voice assistants
are the latest craze, with a third of British homes already having at least one and the figure expected to rise to 75% by 2025. For playing music, smart speakers really are incredible. The size of a coffee jar, they would have been regarded as toys by the audiophiles of the past, but new magnets made of neodymium, plus computer-aided design technology, has allowed engineers to create speakers that pump out great stereo sound with vibrant upper registers and the sort of bass that was once only possible with speakers in pairs, each the size of a fridge. But it is the combination of sound system and the voice assistant that is the secret to the smart speaker’s appeal. They all come with voice recognition and artificial intelligence in the form of Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant or Apple Siri. People love the idea of having a sort of invisible Jeeves hiding in the background waiting to spring into action the minute you need to listen to some K-pop, turn
the smart lights on or suddenly need to know what the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow is. Smart speakers are easy to set up. All you have to do is plug it in, download the relevant app to your phone or tablet, and follow the instructions to connect the speaker to your WiFi. Some smart speakers need to optimise the sound by scanning the acoustic layout of the room and adjusting the sound beams it radiates – mainly to improve the stereo effect – but this is done automatically.
Te a c h t h e m t o o b e y It is probably a good idea to spend a few minutes training the assistant to recognise your voice, but all voice assistants learn on the job, so to speak, so they will get better at noting every word as time goes by, regardless of your particular accent. Once set up, every voice assistant goes to sleep but with an ear open, waiting for a trigger word. For Amazon, it is ‘Alexa’, for Google it is ‘OK Google’ and for Apple it is ‘Hi Siri’, but variations such as ‘Hello Google’ will also do the trick. Or you can press a button on the speaker. Once operating, the main use for
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People love the idea of having a sort of invisible Jeeves in the background waiting to spring into action the minute you need to listen to some K-pop, turn the smart lights on or suddenly need to know what the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow is.
Previous page: Apple HomePod Mini. This page, above: DiscovR, by Pure; right: Amazon’s Echo
a smart speaker is to play stuff from anywhere on the internet. The choice is mind-blowing. Radio stations round the world are available, offering music of every conceivable era and genre from services such as Spotify. Audiobooks, documentaries, everything you could need. And, of course, your own music library. Smart speakers can also be the hub of a smart home system. The voice assistant can be taught to control any home automation system so you can sort out the lights or the temperature or the oven or whatever just by issuing instructions. And, of course, you can search the web for answers to all those questions of life, the universe and anything else. Which brings me to the thing that worries people about voice assistants – privacy. That invisible Jeeves (or Miss Moneypenny if you change the voice) may be a mine of information, helpful and unfailingly polite, but it is still listening to your every word and perhaps sending it all back to corporate base. The corporations all deny this, pointing out that the assistant only listens to a short rolling recording as it waits for the trigger words, but how do you know? In any event, before you buy one make sure you are happy with the idea that smart speakers are sending a stream of information about you and your family back to company HQ, which they use to target advertising at you. Will this change in the future to using the information to control you? You decide.
Ta k e y o u r p i c k Identifying the right speaker for you will be influenced mostly by your attitude to the big American corporation behind the voice assistant you prefer. If you are an Apple fan, Apple’s HomePod offers tight integration
with your iPhone, iPad or Mac. If you shop with Amazon, Alexa is optimised for your shopping needs and Amazon’s smart speakers are exceptionally keenly priced. Google is a good choice for people who like their kit to work with almost anything. The most popular smart speaker by some way is Amazon’s Echo, a fabric-covered ball with lights in the base. It supports Amazon Music (of course) but also Spotify, Apple Music and Pandora, along with many others. The Echo sound quality is not as good as some Bluetooth speakers, so if audio is your thing you might like to look elsewhere. The price under €100. Next in popularity is Google’s Nest Audio speaker at £90. Being Google, it offers excellent integration with services such as Calendar, Gmail and so on. And its connection with Google’s search engine makes it very knowledgable. Again, sound quality is modest. The Apple HomePod Mini costs around €100 and has superb sound quality, despite its petite design. Set-up is easy as long as you have an iPhone – just hold the phone over the speaker and it does most of the work. Another limitation is the restricted number of services you can access; if you are a Spotify fan, forget it. If sound quality is really important, consider spending a little extra on the DiscovR smart speaker from British audio specialist Pure. It is a very stylish unit, with a speaker that pops up when playing and a veritable light show in response to the various commands. The voice assistant is Alexa. Sound quality is excellent, and it has a built-in battery so you can move it around the house and even take it outside. All in all, a great piece of kit at €179.99 but you can get it online for around €99.
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C O M M U N I C AT I O N
For every client brief there’s a design to meet the goals Branding Brand Strategy Naming Logo design Brand Identity
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Graphic Brochures Catalogues Lea ets Advertising Stationery Outdoor billboards Stands Signage
Production Copywriting emailings Photography Printing Merchandising
Brief: logo evolution to maintain the equity of the original
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PAST PLUS
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JUDITH DURHAM
W H AT E V E R H A P P E N E D T O … W E A L L G E T T H O S E S U D D E N F L A S H E S – A FAC E O R N A M E O R FA D F R O M T H E PA S T T H AT W E R E M E M B E R … S O R T O F. T H E Y M I G H T H AV E D R O P P E D O U T O F T H E P U B L I C E Y E O R C H A N G E D D I R E C T I O N – Y O U O N LY K N O W W H E N Y O U S TA R T L O O K I N G
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JILL ECKERSLEY
DALEY THOMPSON Twice-winner of the Olympic Gold for the decathlon, Londoner Daley Thompson still holds the British record for his sport. His first ambition was to be a professional footballer, but he joined local athletics clubs as a teenager and was so promising as a sprinter that he never looked back. He won his first decathlon in 1975, became Junior European Champion two years later and won his first Commonwealth title in 1978. His first Olympic Gold came at the 1980 Moscow Games and by 1983 he was the first athlete to hold Olympic, World, Commonwealth and Continental titles at the same time. By the time the Los Angeles Olympics came round in 1984 his only rival was the West German Jurgen Hingsen – and Daley triumphed yet again. A hamstring injury in 1992 effectively ended his athletics career and he then returned to his first love, football, playing for Mansfield Town and Stevenage FC. He worked as a fitness coach and trainer and was an Ambassador for the London Olympics of 2012. He later described this spectacular event as ‘the best £12 billion we have ever spent!” In 2015 Daley opened his own gym in south-west London and in 2018 co-founded a sports nutrition company. Unlike many British sporting champions, he has never been awarded a knighthood, which surprises his fans but not Daley himself. “The bloke in the street out there likes me… and I wouldn’t swap that for any knighthood!” he says.
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Judith Durham dreamed of a career in opera or musical theatre and trained as a classical pianist at the Melbourne University Conservatorium. Working as a secretary by day, in the evenings she began singing blues, gospel and jazz standards with a local jazz band. At work, she met a young man – Athol Guy – who introduced her to his friends Bruce Woodley and Keith Potger with whom he had formed a folk group called The Seekers… the rest is musical history. The group travelled to England in 1964 and were signed up by The Grade Association. Tom Springfield – brother of Dusty – wrote I’ll Never Find Another You for them. They became the first-ever Australian group to have an international Number One single, which was followed by other huge hits like The Carnival is Over and Georgy Girl. Judith left The Seekers to pursue a solo career in 1968 and married musician Ron Edgeworth. They settled in Queensland where she continued to write songs, record and perform. Sadly, Ron died of motor neurone disease in 1994, just after Judith had joined the other Seekers for their Silver Jubilee Tour. The new millennium meant more performance and recording, with and without The Seekers, culminating in The Seekers 50th in 2012. Judith is the Patron of the Motor Neurone Disease Association of Australia. Her album, So Much More, was released in 2018.
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The Dansette record players will forever be associated with the Sixties and Swinging London – although the company that manufactured them, J & A Margolin of London, was established in the 1930s. The first Dansette, known as the Plus-o-Gram went on sale in 1950/51 for the exorbitant price of 33 guineas, more than a thousand pounds in today’s money and of course way out of reach of most ordinary families, let alone teenagers. Several less pricey models followed, some with optional legs to furnish the living-room, others ‘portable’ (though pretty hefty) with carrying handles. Their sale coincided with the arrival of rock ’n' roll in Britain and especially with the British version – Cliff Richard, the Shadows, the Liverpool Sound and the Beatles. By that time Dansettes could be bought for a modest 11 guineas. Hire-purchase, the thenpopular form of credit, meant that they were in the price range of at least some teens. Especially sophisticated were the models which had ‘autochange’ so that you could load them with a pile of 45 rpm hit singles and dance all night. The last Dansette went on sale in 1969, by which time new concepts like stereo and hi-fi were becoming popular and catered for by Japanese manufacturers. The Dansette was always robust and many are still in use, often refurbished by enthusiasts. There are plenty for sale on Internet auction sites and there’s even a company called Dansette Products Ltd in Rochdale, Greater Manchester which repairs and restores them to their former glory…
The first Dansette, known as the Plus-o-Gram went on sale in 1950/51 for the exorbitant price of 33 guineas, more than a thousand pounds in today’s money
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The 19-year-old student granddaughter of newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst was briefly the most famous young woman in the USA. In February 1974 she was kidnapped at gunpoint from her apartment by a previously-unknown militant ‘revolutionary’ group called the Symbionese Liberation Army. They demanded that her wealthy family donate millions of dollars’ worth of food to the needy in return for her release. Events took a strange turn when she released a tape saying that she had joined the SLA willingly, adopted the name Tania, and was photographed taking part in the armed robbery of a San Francisco bank. She was captured by the FBI in 1975, convicted and sent to jail a year later. However, her lawyers claimed that she had been brainwashed and was really suffering from ‘Stockholm Syndrome’ – a condition where crime victims develop sympathy with their captors. Her prison sentence was commuted by President Jimmy Carter in 1979 and she was pardoned by President Bill Clinton in 2001. Patty went on to write her autobiography. She pursued a career in acting, married and had two daughters. Not surprisingly she has maintained a low profile ever since, becoming involved in charity work and breeding pedigree dogs. Most recently she told the US Press “I have grown daughters and granddaughters and other things that normal people have!”
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PATTY HEARST
MADE IN
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EXPAT INFO PLUS
2021 RESOLUTIONS FOR FINANCIAL WELLBEING WITH BREXIT NOW IN FULL SWING, THERE ARE SOME KEY F I N A N C I A L P L A N N I N G A R E A S F O R U K E X PAT R I AT E S T O C O N S I D E R . A D R I A N H O O K , S E N I O R PA RT N E R , B L E V I N S F R A N K S , A DV I S E S
2 Keep your tax pla n ning up to d ate If you are living here, your financial planning should be set up for you as a Portuguese resident. You need to structure your investments and wealth in the most suitable way to minimise taxation – here, the UK and wherever you have financial interests – while still meeting your obligations. Tax and financial rules often change over the year, potentially affecting the efficiency of your arrangements. Therefore regular reviews help you stay on top of any developments and take advantage of new opportunities that could benefit you. With today’s heightened global tax scrutiny, it is more important than ever to get crossborder tax planning right. Potential penalties for getting it wrong – even unintentionally – can be severe, so take specialist advice for peace of mind. 3 Revisit your savings and investments If you don’t already have a financial plan in place for Portugal, you especially need to take a fresh look at your savings and investments. Are they actually better suited to a UK resident? Do they meet your risk/ reward appetite? Is your income paid in Sterling and therefore vulnerable to exchange rates? Should you take advantage of tax-efficient opportunities for Portuguese residents? Successful investing is about having a strategy specifically based around your personal circumstances, time horizon, needs, aims and risk tolerance. Make sure you have adequate diversification to avoid over-exposure to any given country, asset type,
5 Review your estate planning Is your legacy is on track to go to your chosen heirs? Under Portugal’s ‘forced heirship’ rules, certain family members are automatically in line to inherit a specific portion of your worldwide estate, whatever your actual intentions. While you can override this by applying the EU regulation ‘Brussels IV’ in your will, take care to first understand the pros and cons. Check also that your estate plan is set up to achieve your wishes in the most tax-efficient way possible. If you remain UK domiciled – as many expatriates do – you continue to attract UK inheritance tax, so plan how to reduce this liability for your heirs. And make sure you know where you stand regarding succession rules anywhere else you have assets and/or heirs. Consider also any changes in your personal and family circumstances. Have you recently welcomed any new family members, or will 2021 include major life events, such as retirement or a divorce in the family, that warrant a rethink of your arrangements? To bring all these complex resolutions together and help protect your family’s wealth in 2021 and beyond, take expert, cross-border advice. Tax rates, scope and reliefs may change. Any statements concerning taxation are based upon our understanding of current taxation laws and practices which are subject to change. Tax information has been summarised; individuals should seek personalised advice.
T: 2 8 9 3 5 0 1 5 0 / E : p o r t u g a l @ b l e v i n s f r a n k s . c o m / W : b l e v i n s f r a n k s . c o m
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4 Explore your pension options With more pension freedom than ever – and no one-sizefits-all solution – take your time here. Would you benefit more from leaving UK pensions where they are, or from moving them to a Qualifying Recognised Overseas Pension Scheme (QROPS), for example? Despite Brexit, Portuguese residents can still enjoy tax-free transfers, but the UK government could potentially start applying its 25% ‘overseas transfer charge’ to EU QROPS in the future. Before making any decisions, take extreme care to do what’s right for you and avoid pension scams with personalised, regulated pensions advice.
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sector or company. And if you still use a UK-based adviser, bank or other financial provider, check if your relationship or access to services from Portugal have legally changed now the UK has fully left the EU.
ALGARVE P L U S
1 Check your position Are you now lawfully resident in Portugal? To lock in citizens’ benefits and the right to remain post-Brexit, UK nationals must be able to demonstrate they were settled here before the end of 2020. Others may only be allowed to spend up to 90 days in Portugal (or any other Schengen state) in a 180-day period without a visa. Remember: you must continue to meet Portuguese residence rules to stay under the protection of the Withdrawal Agreement. This generally means having your main home and spending at least 183 days a year here, so take care not to forfeit residence by spending too much time away in 2021.
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ADVICE PLUS
YOUR money R I C A R D O C H AV E S O F A L L F I N A N C E M AT T E R S I S O N T H E P L U S TE A M A N D H ER E TO A N SWER YO U R Q U ESTI O N S O N TH E I S S U ES T H AT A F F E C T Y O U R L I F E S T Y L E O N T H E A L G A R V E . H E R E H E E XPL AI N S TH E FI N A N C IA L PL A N N I N G YO U S H O U LD P U T I N PL AC E
Email your finance questions for Ricardo to martin@algar veplusmagazine.com for inclusion in the first available issue of Algar ve Plus . To c o n s u l t d i r e c t l y w i t h R i c a r d o C h a v e s e m a i l r i c a r d o @ a l l f i n a n c e . p t
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I work from my home here, as a sole trader, advising clients on marketing and communications. Can I charge home expenses to tax, such heating, electricity, space etc, as I was used to doing in the UK. How does it work and what do I need to put in place? Even as a sole trader, there are different taxation regimes that may be applicable to you. The most common is the simplified regime, which is available to any professionals who have a gross annual income up to €200,000. This regime is aimed at workers of the so-called category B – liberal professionals such as lawyers, hairdressers, dentists, journalists, copywriters, translators, veterinarians, alongside many others. This category includes independent workers who carry out commercial or industrial activities and those who are engaged in agricultural, forestry or livestock activities. Doctors, engineers, economists, architects and lawyers are also included. In practice, under the simplified regime there are coefficients of taxation, applied to the various types of activity. As on the simplified regime you will be taxed on a percentage of your income, which is already predetermined, you will not be able to deduct the costs you mentioned. This would only be possible if you were on the normal regime, and taxed on the profit, rather than a percentage of gross income. However, when it comes to VAT, depending on the cost of a purchase, you may be able to deduct a percentage (up to 25%) of the VAT, as long as the expense is deemed as essential to obtain the income you will generate and also that the invoice for the cost of that purchase carries your fiscal number. This is done in the e-fatura portal, when you select if your expense is deemed as personal or professional. If you state that the costs is professional, but just partially, the system will automatically allocate 25% to your activity.
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choose a country where you can work from with good conditions, with less costs, better quality of living and with less taxes. Enquire to see if this could be Portugal. In most cases, the cost of living here will also be lower and the taxes under the NHR status, can be much more favourable.
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I know it is vital to keep one’s eye on every eventuality, particular right now so tell me, if I had to make three resolutions about my finances for this year, what should they be? Good question, and so appropriate in the current environment, as well as the time of year. Here’s what I would suggest: Resolution 1: Pay less tax whenever possible. Firstly make sure that before 15 February 2021, you update or register your household for tax purposes. Please note that this can be very important, not only for tax purposes but also for other related matters, such as registering for schools, kindergarten, etc. It’s also necessary to register your invoices at the tax portal by the same date. The registration of the invoices will allow you to have some tax deductions on the IRS tax declaration to be submitted between April and June 2021. Be aware that you should always give your fiscal number on purchases, especially the ones where you can have a tax rebate, such as medical bills, pharmacy invoices, etc. Don’t forget also that when you sell your property, you will only be able to offset invoices that have your fiscal number and the address of the property, so make sure you have a folder in order, ready for when you decide to sell your property. Resolution 2: Prepare for the unexpected. The year 2020 has showed that nothing is granted and life can change in a minute. So in order to be prepared, you should discipline yourself as much as possible, in terms of financial expenditure. This could mean, for instance, budgeting your life (there are apps for this) and checking where you can save money. Find a financial/mortgage adviser who may help you to minimise the interest you are paying on your debts, especially on credit cards. Eventually you can restructure your loans and consolidate them into one. Find products where you can acces your money, so that in case something unexpected develops, you have a spare piggy bank, or start an emergency saving fund. Last but not least, make sure that in case you have a medical insurance, that the cover is adequate for your needs. Resolution 3: Think globally. Covid 19 has showed that we can work from home and the trend will be maintained in the future. Try to make the best of this:
UK - ALGARVE - UK LOCAL – NATIONAL – INTERNATIONAL – WORLDWIDE
ALGARVE Algarve Express Transport & Removals Algarve Secure Storage Service Caminho do Cerro do Galo, 8135-028 Almancil, Algarve, Portugal Mob 00351 968807244 · Tel 00351 289 393707 sales@algarveexpress.com UK DEPOT BASILDON ESSEX Open for collections Mon-Fri 8am-7pm & Sat 9am-12am Mobile 0044 (0)7989 417625 · Tel 0044 (0)1268 723601
www.algarveexpress.com
EXCHANGE PLUS
MOVING BACK I F YO U P L A N TO R E T U R N TO YO U R HOME COUNTRY THIS YEAR, THERE W I L L B E M A N Y P L A N S TO P U T I N P L A C E , S AY S J O S E A L M E I D A
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R e s e a r c h r e m ov a l s co m p a n i e s Using the first removals company you come across without doing any research can be a costly mistake, so spend some time going through the options available. Personal recommendation is often invaluable, so check with friends and family to see if they’ve had a good experience in the past. Get quotes from all the companies you’re considering and then check out their online reviews – a company may be the cheapest for a reason. Paying less in the short term may end up costing you more if your items are delayed, lost or arrive damaged.
Consider currency A mistake many people make when moving home from abroad is using their bank to make international currency transfers. Many banks apply transfer fees and don’t offer competitive exchange rates. It’s also unlikely that they’d be able to offer you the range of services available through a leading currency transfer provider like Currencies Direct. By using a currency transfer specialist you’ll be able to secure excellent exchange rates and move your money without transfer fees. You’ll also have the option to transfer your money online, over the phone with your personal account manager, or by app, giving you complete flexibility.
M ove yo u r m o n ey a t t h e r i g h t t i m e Another big benefit to using a leading currency transfer provider like Currencies Direct is that they’ll help you
M a ke a p l a n a n d s t i c k t o i t ! Finally, a super simple way to save money on a move home from Portugal is to plan your move in advance, and plan well. Make a list of all your expected costs and a second list of any additional costs that could potentially crop up so you can budget effectively. Having to pay out for a service at the last minute could prove pricey, so plan, plan, plan. If you’re planning to move home from Portugal in the year ahead good luck! Currencies Direct has helped over 325.000 individuals and businesses move money abroad since 1996. It has an ‘Excellent’ Trustscore on Trustpilot, over 20 global offices and a team of more than 500 currency experts.
For more detailed information , please contact the loc al of fice T: 2 8 9 3 9 5 7 3 9 or register at c u r r e n c i e s d i r e c t . c o m / p o r t u g a l to get regular updates on the currency markets , ( U s e A l g a r v e P L U S m a g a z i n e a s t h e r e f e r e n c e) .
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pick the best time to transfer your funds out of Portugal. Exchange rates are always moving and a discrepancy of just a couple of pence or cents in the rate you achieve can make a massive difference, particularly when you’re moving larger amounts; timing is important. Currency specialists also offer a range of services that can help you protect your currency transfers from exchange rate movement. For example, with a forward contract you can fix an exchange rate for up to a year ahead of making a transfer. This means you’ll know exactly how much currency you’ll receive and the value of your transfer won’t change no matter how the market moves (although this would mean you’d miss out if the exchange rate strengthened). A rate alert, on the other hand, gives you the ability to target an exchange rate above the current level. You simply set the rate you want to achieve and you’ll be notified by text or email if your rate is hit. You then have the option to make a transfer or set another rate alert and hold out for an even stronger rate. You can also use a limit order to trigger a transfer as soon as the exchange rate hits a set level. Other services you might want to explore include currency wallets (where you can buy currency in advance for use later) and market updates (where you can receive regular exchange rate updates straight to your inbox).
ALGARVE P L U S
major lifestyle change ahead. Here, we’ve put together a few handy tips to help you keep the costs down when moving home from Portugal. One big expense will be shipping your belongings, so use your move as an opportunity to declutter. If something isn’t useful, has no sentimental value and can be easily replaced, this might be the time to let it go. Big, bulky furniture may also be better off staying put. You could try to sell some items and put the money you make towards buying new once you’re back in your home country.
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LANNING IS crucial when there is a
CHAUFFEUR
C O R P O R AT E
SERVICES
TRAVEL
LUXURY ALGARVE
WEDDINGS
PORTUGAL
GOLF
TOURS
TRANSFERS
MERCEDES S-CLASS, E-CLASS, V-CLASS AND SPRINTER, TESLA MODEL S & MODEL X, RANGE ROVER, MERCEDES CLASSIC 220 E
www.vipchauffeurs-algarve.com +351 914 479 300 bookings@vipchauffeurs-algarve.com
DATELINE PLUS
THE agenda T H I S M O N T H ’ S S P E C I A L S E L E C T I O N O F T H I N G S WO R T H S E E I N G
António
Marra
A R TC AT TO, LO U L É , O N N OW
Artworks which provide three different perspectives according to where you stand. Acrylic on canvas, 50cm x 50cm.
A R T
FLORIAN
Fresco Galeria de Art Almancil On until end January
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Part of the Missing Pieces exhibition, oil-artist Floriana Roumbouts is Algarve-based. “My eyes are constantly looking for settings, objects, figures which I can use in my paintings,” she says. “24-hour days are way too short for me.”
Angelina Maia TAV I R A D ’A R T E S , TAV I R A , O N N OW
Amazing card sculptures for the wall from this internationally-acclaimed artist. In silver, gold and black, and also available self-standing.
CÔRTE REAL
Gudrun Bartels
Paderne Re-opening start February
MUSEU DO TRAJE
Pedro and Michael, owners of this magical gallery in the hills, are spending this month visiting artists, designers and craftspeople, to select new works for the season ahead.
O N U N T I L 2 9 J A N UA RY
S ÃO B R Á S
Impressions of landscapes, flora, natural forces and Portuguese culture, in acrylic, pastels and pigments. IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE
DATELINE PLUS
THE agenda C L A S S E S
PORTUGUESE CRASH COURSE
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Faust EN 396 Semino 8125-303 Quarteira 11-22 January, Monday to Friday, 2pm-6pm 289 301 356 | 919 437 377 info@faust.pt
C L A S S E S
WEAVEDECK
CENTRO COMERCIAL GALERIAS DO MERCADO
This 40-hour course is for beginners. It has a practical approach to language acquisition and delivers communication training from the start. Groups are of mixed nationalities and with a maximum of five students. The €500 fee includes materials. This month you can also register for Faust’s Portuguese A1 course which runs from 1 February to 4 June with twice-weekly 110 minutes classes and a maximum of nine students. Both courses are in taught in school by experienced, qualified and native teachers, using the direct method (opposed to the translation method) and focusing especially on oral communication.
R UA J O S É F E R N A N D E S G U E R R E I R O, LO U L E W E D N E S DAY A N D F R I DAY 9 . 3 0 A M -1 . 3 0 P M A N D 2 . 3 0 P M - 4 . 3 0 P M
Weaving and tapestry workshops that are hugely good fun and wonderfully creative. Techniques taught include tabby weave, twining, soumac, rya knots, rya loops, pattern making, tapestry, rug making and more. €10 per hour, all materials included. Bespoke workshops for three-plus people can be arranged. Call 925 450 609 to book or visit weavedeck.com ESTRELA YOGA
PERCUSSIONS SESSIONS
Museu do Traje, Sao Bras Starting Wednesday 15 January Discover Batucada, a sub-style of the samba which uses glasses, balls, palms, sticks, pine cones, clubs, drums, pebbles, shells, lids and more to create amazing, fast-paced rhythms with the hands and voice part of the instruments. Call 966 329 073 for more info.
Boliqueime Yin yang flow: Wednesday and Fridays, 10am, Sunday 11am Thursday, 7pm, Candlelit Yin A safe space to heal the mind, body and soul after 2020. And starting this month there will be workshops with yoga, meditation with art, and more, led by yoga teachers and therapists from across Portugal and the UK. Email Tracy Carson at estrelayoga@yahoo.com for the lowdown.
T O U R I S T O F F I C E S
It is worth knowing where you can go to pick up material/ advice/suggestions on local happenings. Here’s our list, with phone numbers Albufeira Rua 5 de Outubro 289 585 279 Alcoutim Rua 1 de Maio / 281 546 179
F I T
BOOTCAMP
Alte Estrada da Ponte, 17 289 478 666
Fitness Centre, Vale do Lobo, Tuesdays and Thursdays, 9am-9.50am
Alvor Rua Dr. Afonso Costa, 51 282 457 540
Make the most of the outdoors and get involved in circuits, weight-training and teamwork to build muscle and get you moving in the best possible way. Highintensity exercises led by a trained instructor are perfect for getting your heart racing, blood pumping and endorphins releasing.
Castro Marim Rua Dr. José Alves Moreira, 2-4 281 531 232
GARDEN MARKET
Jardim Municipal Carrera de Viegas Rua João de Deus, Sao Bras Sunday 17 January, 10am-2pm Lots of home-grown goodies from local producers and artisans, so much to buy. In Roberto Nobre Park there is a market every Saturday from 7am-2pm, and a flea market on the third Sunday of the month. The daily municipal market, left, has produce of exceptional quality.
Faro Rua da Misericórdia, 8-11 289 803 604 Lagos Rua Vasco da Gama (S. João) 282 763 031 Loulé Av. 25 Abril, 9 / 289 463 900 Monchique Largo S. Sebastião / 282 911 189 Monte Gordo Av. Marginal / 281 544 495 Olhão Largo Sebastião Martins Mestre, 8A 289 713 936 Portimão Av. Zeca Afonso / 282 470 717 Quarteira Praça do Mar / 289 389 209
concerts
Querença Largo da Igreja / 289 422 495
CONCERT – LOVE AFFAIR WITH MOZART
Teatro Figuras, Faro, 7 January, 7.30pm, Tickets €10 The most popular arias and duets from Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro, Don Giovanni and The Magic Flute, from the Orchestra Classica do Sul with soprano Filipa van Eck and baritone Rui Baeta. This will be a sell out… and a thoroughly lovely evening.
Sagres Rua Comandante Matoso 282 624 873
CONCERT
Cineteatro São Brás 16 January, 7pm, Tickets €7 We know it's the Orchestra Classica do Sul, but no specific programme information was available when we went to press, so it’s worth giving them a call on 289 840 211 to see what is planned. We only have the date and ticket cost!
Salir Rua José Viegas Gregório 289 489 733 São Brás de Alportel Largo S. Sebastião, 23 289 843 165 Silves Rua 25 Abril / 282 442 255 Tavira Rua da Galeria, 9 / 281 322 511
IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE
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Carvoeiro Praia do Carvoeiro 282 357 728
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M A R K E T S
Armação de Pêra Av. Marginal / 282 312 145
ALGARVE P L U S
K E E P
Aljezur Largo do Mercado 282 998 229
HUMPH PLUS
AND finally I T ’ S J A N U A R Y, T H E S TA R T O F A N E W Y E A R A N D , H O P E F U L LY, A M U C H - I M P R O V E D W AY O F L I F E . A N T H O N Y M A R T I N LO O K S B AC K O N 2 0 2 0 A N D F O R WA R D W I T H O PTI M I S M TO ITS M U C H -W ELCO M ED S U CC ES SO R
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ELL HELLO 2021 and welcome. You have been a long time coming – a year to be exact – and a lot of people have been anxiously waiting for you, as your predecessor has, for obvious reasons, not been particularly popular. And here I must ask you readers if, for the sake of this piece, I may be gender-specific and refer to 2020 as ‘he’ – something many people during his time frowned upon, insisting that ‘gender fluidity’ was both appropriate and desireable. But perhaps you, 21, will be a little more understanding and allow me, who grew up in a civilised era and therefore has a modicum of common sense, to stick with this time-honoured pronoun, otherwise this is going to be an even more complicated read than it is now. You years have always been labelled, some good, some not so. Poor old 87, his legacy was a stock market crash, but 53 enjoyed the Queens’ Coronation and 69 had the man on the moon. They can put their feet up, sit back and know they presided over what was considered ‘good’ years. Without question, 20 is going to receive the worst press ever but it’s not his fault and 21, whatever your year brings, will not be of your doing either, for you are purely a title – a heading – a wrapper containing all of mankind’s traits, good and bad. So, 2021, keep your chin up and look back with pleasure on the moment your reign started. Proudly remember the clock chiming midnight and the world’s population cheering your coming, albeit p*ssed out of their minds, but cheering, nevertheless. It’s something we do, something we have always done, Lord knows why. But the upside – the kissing of total strangers – used to be quite nice. And also, while I’m writing, could you do me a great personal favour and ask 22 not to be in such a rush to arrive – and pass it down the line. I don’t know what you lot are on, but you are arriving much quicker than you used to. Learn to take things slowly; it’ll be better for you and certainly better for us,
as there are things we haven’t done yet and we need the time to get that sorted. Despite this, my family and I welcomed you; we were in Estonia at the time. Well not actually in Estonia, but metaphysically there, as I’ll be buggered if I’m going to hang around until midnight to say hello and, as you were in the Baltic three hours earlier, it seemed like a good idea. So, at nine o’clock Portugal time, being midnight in Estonia, we, together with the entire population of Tallinn stood in the beautifully cobbled square of the Old Town and raised our glasses of Vana Tallinn to you. And best of all, I was in bed at ten. In fact this worked so well that come next New Year’s Eve we’re thinking of being in Stockholm where I can toast you with Aquavit and metaphysically roll around naked in the snow while being beaten with birch twigs... and still get an early night. So tell me 21. Can you explain to me what this New Year Resolution stuff is all about? For you, of all people should know. Why do we, on one particular night of the year decide that from that day on we are going to act in a totally different manner than we have for the previous 12 months? For ten minutes or so we come over all holier-than-thou, find ourselves guilty of various misdemeanours, smack our own wrists and promise that we shall never do them again. This is rubbish. It’s all been said before: “Next year I’m going to be slimmer.” “Next year I’m going to be fitter.” “Next year I’ll stop smoking, drinking and kicking the cat.” “Next year I’m going to be altogether a better, kinder, more sympathetic person.” No we’re bloody not, because most of us carry on as usual, with the only exceptions being those of a more earnest disposition who like to strut around telling all and sundry of their iron will-power and resolve, because for the previous five days they haven’t had a Mars Bar. They’re just pathetic attention seekers. Personally, I’ve never kept one resolution I have made – no I lie, I have. In 1963 I resolved to give up smoking and 20 years later, I did.
Why, for ten minutes on New Year’s Eve, do we come over all holierthan-thou
We’ll look after your tax affairs while you look after your lifestyle