Hot enough? One of the best things about the summer heat is the early mornings when the sky is a pale blue and there’s a slight rustle from a start-of-the-day breeze. Then there is last thing at night when the quiet takes over and the temperatures are no longer overpowering. Of course, during the day, the aircon blasts and the swimming pool beckons, so what have we really got to complain about? Not a lot, when the cherry tomatoes are there for the picking and the peaches are fragrant (and especially delicious in a glass of cold white wine).
This month, we focus a lot on looking after this planet of ours, with advice from experts who care and share and point us in the right direction to protect our land, ours seas, and our animal life. There are many lessons we need to learn if we are to leave a good place for the generations to come.
We’ve uncovered more gems – places that you may not have visited but really should. Some are a short drive away and offer a very different perspective of life in our chosen homeland; others are a distance, but absolutely worth the journey; maybe it’s time to plan a special weekend? And if there’s a celebration to share – a wedding perhaps – look no further – we’ve gathered together the lowdown on the venues that will do you proud, whether you want a bit of good old-fashioned formality, or a laid back party in a vineyard.
And just to make up for all the monthly niceties, we have a couple of puzzles to focus on by the pool. Warning... relaxing they are not!
FRONT COVER: Sit back and relax. There’s so much ahead of you. Just remember your factor 50. A more gorgeous you... and you don’t need a special occasion. Fleur Elisabeth is the talent who produces incredible results in professional make-up, styling, and make-overs. 910 040 852 fleurelisabeth@icloud.com insta: @fleurvhek
Hats on to fashion with a conscience. For every product sold online –T-shirts, sweatshirts, caps, etc – Imago Portugal allows water to be provided to two people in Africa for one year. imagoportugal.com And you’ll find the collection at Alquatro in Amancil, too.
Lisbon-based Kiki Voortman, who designed the poetic lamps for the bathrooms of boutique hotel Casa Amor in Olhão, continues her collaboration with Jack and Walter with these cups that bear the messages Amor, Exactamente and Bom Dia. Find them in the Casa Amor coffee shop and boutique. casaamor-olhao.com
Torres Novas’ luxurious bestselling 100% cotton towels are back, with new beach numbers available in ten colours and three sizes: individual (100x180cm), children’s (70x130cm) and family (180x180cm). €24.99– €64.99 torresnovas1845.com
IN THE PINK
The exclusive Loulé fine photo art gallery that showcases the works of international and Portuguese photography artists has opened a second venue, in Quinta Shopping. Its Advisory Service is dedicated to helping you discover both unique and edition photographs for your home, and assisting you in building a distinguished photography collection.
From Zé e Maria in the main walking street of Olhão comes new glass candle holders to add colour to your outdoor summer evenings. Five shades to choose from, but better still, have them all as a group. €19 each. Insta: zeemariaolhao
Luz Editions has created an imaginative addition to your day-to-day life: the porcelain collection Palavras, which inspires a daily poetic journey of words. Each hand-crafted object is destined to become a companion – think of it as holding a book, with quotes from favourite Portuguese authors. Mug/tea cup, €25; bowl €27; plate €29. luzeditions.com
Contemporary mosaic artist Andrea B Designs, one of the Quinta Art Collective, will be showing her new works as Artist of the Month at Quadro in Almancil during August, which include her signature mix of materials – glass, inks, resin and stone along with semi precious stones. quintaartcollective.com / quadromolduras.com
Ready for that picnic on the beach?
Check out the beautiful quilted cotton tote bags and straw hats at Alamaya in Moncarapacho. alamayadeco.com
Queen of Silk is the name of the new Creed perfume, a brand sold exclusively in Portugal at Boutique dos Relógios Plus. Sexy, rich and intense, it mixes the strong aromas of vanilla, amber and passionfruit, and touches the skin like a veil leaving an unique aroma behind. boutiquedosrelogios.pt
In the nick of time
THE IDEA OF WALKING ACROSS THE ALGARVE HIT NICK ROBINSON SOME TWO YEARS AGO; THE IDEA OF WALKING AND FILMING THE 200KM ODYSSEY MEANT HE COULD SHOW HIS YOUTUBE SUBSCRIBERS ALL THE TOWNS ALONG THE WAY
MY INITIAL thinking after the past two or three walks where we covered a lot of ground (mainly due to energetic walking buddies!) was to walk from Lagos all the way to Sagres. In actual fact, Salema was looking like a more agreeable target as I stood, rooted to the spot, mesmerised by the sheet of calm blue that washed softly against the cliffs.
It was one of those spectacularly still mornings that we get so often here in the Algarve, the sun dazzling my vision as I searched for my drone above. After a successful landing I whipped out my smartphone and recorded a little good morning with Coach Kat, my walking buddy. She offers mobility-impaired people and those of us with a sedentary lifestyle a way out of back pain. I’m a fan as I spend far too much of my day curled up in front of a computer.
Carl and Rubina joined us for the day. This delightful couple from Massachusetts have let us help them on their relocation journey and are now providing us with local advice as they live in Salema and have walked this route a few times. I was pumped, a beautiful day, a breathtaking walk and wonderful people to share it all with. Now my only challenge was to record it perfectly for YouTube!
Heading west from Ponte da Piedade near Lagos, the next town along is Praia da Luz – it really is worth the effort to get out there. It’s a simple, easy walk, filled with aeroplane-like views as you tread carefully along the lofty clifftops. Approaching Luz, you need to negotiate a dusty descent, which can be tricky for the unfirm amongst us. Praia da Luz (or just Luz), as always, is a delight and we stopped for coffee along the
Mass tourism hasn’t over-complicated Salema. It gets busy but it is fairly true to how it used to be, albeit with some swankier restaurants.
little promenade to soak up the holiday atmosphere. Daily life centres around the beach, restaurants and not much else – it’s a warm and relaxed environment with a muted sound of people laughing, soft tones of background music and the shushing of the ocean as it glides up and down the sands.
Our next sector was to walk from Luz to Burgau along the coastline. Navigating is easy, just keep the ocean on your left but watch your step, as there are some impressive drops to the rocks below. Burgau signalled lunchtime and a favourite restaurant called Love Burgau.
It had warmed up into a sizzling hot day. A seasoned Algarvian like myself should definitely have taken more sun protection. At 54 years of age, you think I’d have learned my lesson by now! Cover up people, our sun can be vicious.
Ticking off the beaches, we glided past some Roman ruins, a little river emptying into the ocean, more paths up cliffs and more paths down cliffs before finally marching into Salema at about 5pm. If you’re a committed walker it wouldn’t take you this long, we like to take it slowly and I’m always stopping to film.
A super cold Super Bock in Salema really slaked the thirst, while I looked around the late afternoon scene. Couples strolled along the beach, kids somersaulted into the water, groups of friends chatted idly while others lay tummies up absorbing all the rays of sunshine they could.
An old cyclist walked his bike past, the gears ticking over in the still afternoon. Fishermen sat on the far end of the beach, fixing nets, smoking and occasionally laughing. It felt to me that mass tourism hasn’t over-complicated Salema. It gets busy, but it’s still pretty old fashioned and fairly true to how it used to be, albeit with some swankier restaurants. a
WHILE THE ALGARVE IS FAMOUS FOR ITS BUSTLING TOURIST SPOTS, THERE ARE CHARMING, LESSER-KNOWN DESTINATIONS THAT OFFER A UNIQUE AND UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE. ESCAPE THE CROWDS AND DISCOVER THE BEAUTY AND AUTHENTICITY OF VILLAGES LIKE BURGAU, SALEMA, SANTA LUZIA, MANTA ROTA AND ALPORCHINHOS
Words: KAYLA MEIRINHO
Village life
BURGAU
This quaint fishing village west of Lagos has a rich history dating back to the 16th century. Initially a fishing community, Burgau saw significant developments over the centuries. This includes the construction of a 17thcentury fort, the Casa Grande mansion in 1912, and then in 1940 the Burgau Workhouse was founded. It was the first institution in the country created by the Junta Central das Casas dos Pescadores, which sheltered and trained young women who were daughters of fishermen. Today, Burgau retains its traditional allure alongside a welcoming community atmosphere.
Things to do
Beach time: Relax on the small but picturesque beach of Burgau, perfect for the simple pleasure of swimming and sunbathing. Hiking: Explore coastal paths for breathtaking views and a chance to explore the surrounding natural beauty. Visit Forte de São Luís de Almádena to the west.
Historical exploration: Take time out at the Casa Grande mansion and learn about its history.
Local cuisine: Dine in local restaurants offering fresh seafood and traditional dishes. Fishing Tours: Join a fishing tour to experience traditional fishing methods.
Eateries to check out
Âncora: A stylish restaurant near the beach with a sea view and chic decor, and offering Mediterranean cuisine. The outdoor terrace is perfect for a relaxing meal and ambient music.
Esquina Restaurante: Located in the heart of Burgau, this eatery serves traditional and contemporary dishes in a rustic setting with wooden beams and stone walls. Highlights include monkfish cataplana, tuna, and homemade desserts like the Creme Tart.
Recommended places to stay
Quinta Aurora: Amidst nature with stunning ocean views, Quinta Aurora offers beautifully accommodation. This hilltop getaway combines rustic charm with modern comforts, featuring well-equipped glamping tents perfect for a relaxing stay. Guests appreciate the warm hospitality, outdoor pool, terraces and the natural beauty.
Local festival
Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes: Held in early August, this festival celebrates Burgau’s fishing heritage with boat processions, live music, and local delicacies.
SALEMA
Salema, a historic village west of Lagos, boasts deep-rooted fishing traditions and a laid-back vibe. Part of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park, it offers diverse landscapes including cliffs, beaches and dunes. The picturesque beach is a hub for fishing activities where visitors can watch boats return and enjoy fresh seafood at local restaurants. The beach also features sedimentary layers with 150-million-yearold dinosaur footprints, documented by the University of Lisbon in 2001.
Things to do
Beach activities: Enjoy the quiet and scenic beach for swimming, sunbathing, and relaxing. Windsurfing and kayaking are popular here.
Historical sites: Explore the ruins of the Roman villa and the old fish canning factory. View fossilized dinosaur footprints from a platform on Salema beach.
Hiking and walking: Walk along the coastal trails for stunning views and the opportunity to discover hidden coves.
Local dining: Savour fresh seafood in the village’s charming restaurants and cafes.
Eateries to check out
Água na Boca: A fine dining restaurant that offers a gourmet experience with a focus on fresh, local ingredients. The menu changes seasonally with expertly crafted and beautifully presented dishes. The elegant setting and attentive service make it ideal for a special occasion.
Salema My Sushi: For sushi lovers, this restaurant near the beach offers an extensive
Opposite page: The fishermen mending their nets in Burgau. Above: The winding back streets of Salema
menu with high-quality sushi, sashimi, and Chinese food options, including vegan and vegetarian choices, for all you can eat. The ambiance is relaxed and inviting, with a contemporary design that complements the coastal setting.
Recommended places to stay
Villamar: This gorgeous beach property is just over a year old. Its location is perfect for walking to eateries, enjoying reserved beach chairs, and listening to the soothing sounds of waves. Guests can relax in modern spacious rooms with balconies overlooking the ocean. With friendly and attentive staff, it is an ideal place to relax and enjoy the coastal beauty.
Local Festival
Festa de Nossa Senhora da Encarnação: This religious festival in early September includes a procession, music, and traditional food, celebrating the patron saint of the village.
SANTA LUZIA
A small fishing village within the Tavira municipality, Santa Luzia has earned its reputation as the ‘octopus capital’ of the Algarve. Initially focused on tuna fishing from 1842, the industry declined due to overfishing until the last factory shut down in the 1970s. Anticipating this shift, fishermen began developing the octopus industry in the early
1920s. Elevated to town status in 1999, Santa Luzia continues to thrive with its vibrant octopus fishing industry and picturesque waterfront along the Ria Formosa lagoon.
Things to do
Octopus Route: Explore the village’s maritime heritage through the Octopus Route, featuring ten stops highlighting its fishing history and cultural significance.
Boat Tours: Discover the Ria Formosa lagoon and its islands on guided boat tours.
Fishing: Experience traditional fishing activities or observe local fishermen at work.
Ilha de Tavira: Take a short boat trip to nearby Ilha de Tavira for beautiful beaches and clear waters.
Eateries to check out
Restaurante Polvo & Companhia: Specialising in octopus dishes, this restaurant offers innovative and beautifully presented meals, providing a gourmet experience in a casual setting. Great value for money, too.
Zurrata Restaurante: A hidden gem near the church, Zurrata Restaurante combines contemporary style with traditional Portuguese cuisine, focusing on flavour and a relaxed dining atmosphere.
Recommended place to stay
Abacatus Farmhouse: Nestled in the countryside near Santa Luzia, this beautifully
restored farmhouse offers a tranquil retreat with modern amenities, including an outdoor pool and charming gardens. Each room reflects the region’s cultural heritage with a stylish interior and local artwork, complemented by a delightful breakfast.
Local Festival
Festa do Polvo (Octopus Festival): Held annually on the 2nd weekend in August, this festival celebrates Santa Luzia’s octopus heritage with culinary delights, music and cultural activities.
MANTA ROTA
This serene beach village in the eastern Algarve is renowned for its expansive sandy beaches that stretch along the Atlantic coast. Part of the Ria Formosa Natural Park, a protected area celebrated for its biodiversity, it is a paradise for bird watchers, particularly during the spring and autumn migrations. The beach itself invites long walks, offering breathtaking views of fossil cliffs, and easy access to the historic village of Cacela Velha, where remnants of Roman roads and diverse ecosystems, including coastal dunes and marshes await exploration.
Things to do
Beach activities: Enjoy swimming, sunbathing, and beach sports on the beautiful wide sandy beaches. And there is
Above: Ria Formosa European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster).
Right top: The entrance to Porches Pottery; below: Octopus served up at Zurrata Restaurante in Santa Luzia. Opposite page: The charming little village of Burgau
a naturist beach to the west.
Bird watching: Explore the Ria Formosa Natural Park for diverse bird species.
Walking and Hiking: Visit the charming historic village of Cacela Velha with its ancient church, fort, and panoramic views of the Ria Formosa and the Atlantic Ocean.
Local Markets: Take your pick of fresh produce and traditional goods.
Eateries to check out
Mar’s Bar: This family-run eatery is known for its friendly service and home-cooked meals featuring a variety of traditional Portuguese dishes with locally sourced ingredients.
Chá Com Água Salgada: An elegant beachfront restaurant offering a blend of traditional Portuguese flavours with modern culinary techniques. Praised for their excellent service, variety of dishes, and extensive wine selection, including vegan options.
Recommended place to stay
Praia da Lota Resort: Stunning ocean views, direct beach access, and architecture that combines modern design with traditional elements create a luxurious atmosphere. Guests enjoy amenities such as a rooftop terrace, infinity pool, and gourmet dining.
Local Festival
São João da Degola Festival: Every year on 29 August, Manta Rota hosts São João da Degola, a festival that commemorates Saint John the Baptist’s
martyrdom, featuring a historical reenactment known as the ‘Public Bath’.
ALPORCHINHOS
Alporchinhos, near Porches, is a little treasure along the Algarve coast, prized for its magnificent beaches and lush landscapes, including Praia da Senhora da Rocha and Praia Nova.
The area is also renowned for its pottery and wine, thriving as a tourist destination with its rich cultural heritage. The pottery industry preserves centuries-old techniques and motifs, with artisans mastering styles that blend Moorish, Mediterranean and local influences, while the local wine industry offers unique flavours developed over decades.
Things to do
Snorkelling and Diving: Explore the underwater world and marine life in the clear waters.
Coastal Walks: Enjoy scenic walks along the cliffs and coastline, including a visit to Church of Nossa Senhora da Rocha, a favourite setting for wedding ceremonies and photographs.
Wine Tasting: Check out local vineyards and experience unique flavours, such as at Quinta dos Capinhas.
Pottery: Try your hand at pottery with classes or explore shops for handcrafted pieces. Visits to Porches Pottery and the Olaria Pequena are real musts.
Eateries to check out
Ocean Restaurant: Located at Vila Vita Parc Resort & Spa, this two Michelin-starred dining experience is under the inspired leadership of Hans Neuner. The food is exquisite, offering surprising flavours and impeccable wine pairings.
Past Verde Mar: Discover fresh seafood and local flavours in a charming setting. The humble decor creates a warm and inviting atmosphere, while the kind staff ensure a pleasant dining experience. The food is well-served, delicious, and generously portioned.
Recommended places to stay
Vilalara Thalassa Resort: Set along the stunning cliffs of Alporchinhos, Vilalara Thalassa Resort combines luxury and wellness. The resort features elegantly designed suites and apartments with modern amenities, private terraces, and panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean or lush gardens. Enjoy thalassotherapy treatments, yoga sessions, and multiple dining options amid botanical gardens and a secluded beach.
Local Festival
Craft Beer Fest: Held Setember to October at Vila Vita Biergarten, this festival celebrates local craft beers and Bavarian delicacies with live music in an authentic beer garden setting, inspired by Oktoberfest in Munich with an Algarvian twist.
Better safe than sorry Insuring your home
TWE
ARE ALL AWARE OF THE IMPORTANCE OF HOME INSURANCE AND THE NEED TO FIND THE BEST POSSIBLE SUPPLIER WHOSE POLICIES AND PRACTICES WILL GIVE PROPERTY OWNERS PEACE OF MIND AND SECURITY, WHETHER THE HOME IN QUESTION IS THEIR MAIN RESIDENCE, OR A SECOND HOME FOR HOLIDAYS. ROB DOES ADVISES
AKING OUT home insurance in Portugal is a wise decision for several compelling reasons, but it is not mandatory for everyone – if you do not have a mortgage and do not live in a condominium, you are free to decide for yourself how much insurance you need to feel safe. However, if you take out a mortgage, your bank will require home insurance. Insurance is also required for properties in horizontal ownership. This ensures that property owners are financially protected in the event of fire damage, not only protecting their own investment but also that of others.
In Portugal, two primary types of home insurance policies are available:
Fire insurance
Fire insurance, Seguro de Incêndio, is required by mortgage lenders for homebuyers. It covers damage to the building caused by fire. Most policies also cover floods, storms, and electrical damage. Some types of insurance also often extend their coverage to other perils such as heat, smoke, steam, lightning, explosions, and damage caused by natural elements. However, common exclusions that you may need to pay extra for include damage due to negligence, such as taps left running.
Multi-risk insurance
In addition to fire insurance, many property owners opt for a more comprehensive policy, Seguro Multiriscos, which offers broader coverage, often tailored to individual needs. It typically includes protection against risks such as public liability, contents, legal and earthquake protection, and coverage for alternative accommodation expenses if your home becomes uninhabitable. As an optional feature, multi-risk insurance covers your personal belongings or possessions and all the existing furniture in the house.
Many companies offer holiday home insurance which would include, for example, loss of rental income or damage to an unoccupied property
Bank insurance or not?
Although insurances are required by the bank granting the loan for the purchase of a property, you are not obliged to take out insurances with that bank. Research the market carefully and go for a company that best suits your needs and at the best price. As long as the policy offers the coverage demanded by the financial institution granting the home loan, you can take out home insurance with any insurance company legally operating in Portugal.
Be aware that the bank may lower the interest rate in order to attract you as a customer, but offset this benefit by increasing the price of the life insurance or other products you take out. In some cases, there might be a provision in the house loan contract which states that if the terms change, you will lose the lower interest rate. However, in most cases you can transfer your insurance without penalty.
Covering your second home
Second-home insurance tends to be more expensive than first-home insurance due to several factors. Firstly, second homes in the Algarve are often located in holiday or high-risk areas such as the coastal regions or remote wilderness areas, which can increase the likelihood of damage from natural disasters or vandalism. Furthermore, these homes are often unoccupied for long periods of time, making them more susceptible to theft or damage that can go unnoticed for a while.
Many companies offer holiday home insurance which would include, for example, loss of rental income or damage to an unoccupied property.
Having the right insurance for your (second) home, ensures you that you have peace of mind when you are away, knowing that your investment is protected. But it is worthwhile to shop around! Use your time to explore the multitude of home insurance options accessible online. Most websites let you compare insurances, which can be really helpful in making a final decision.
Dom Pattinson
THE SOULFUL SOUNDTRACK TO PORTUGAL’S RICH
HERITAGE IS ITS FADO, ONE OF THE WORLD’S OLDEST
URBAN FOLK MUSIC GENRES, AND A PROUD SYMBOL OF PORTUGUESE NATIONAL IDENTITY
Words: DEBBIE REYNOLDS
FADO
Even the buildings of the old town in Lisbon carry the message of the haunting music that is sung with passion. The anonymous graffiti has become a tourist attraction
IT’S A WARM busy summer’s evening in Tavira, but it’s cool and calm in the blue-tiled Igreja da Misericórdia where we’ll be treated to a little slice of fado history, thanks to the city’s Fado com História show.
Spot on time, a beaming Virgilio Lanca strides into the church to greet his audience in four languages. He’s clearly besotted with his subject, explaining how “fado is the most important music in Portugal” and how, in November 2011, it was recognised by UNESCO as an “Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity”.
With great aplomb, he welcomes Jo Pinto and Helena Candeias to the stage. José plays the traditional Portuguese guitar (a must in any fado performance), while Helena is our fadista. In her sparkling gown and black lace shawl, Helena is the epitome of a fado star, but it is her voice that gives
goosebumps, soaring, without any amplification, to the rafters of the old church.
The songs vary from sad and haunting to the intoxicating Uma Casa Portuguesa, the song that made Amalia Rodrigues a world-famous representative of Portuguese culture.
In between performances of some of fado’s most iconic songs, Virgilio, who I later find out is a skilled guitarist and a passionate contributor to the preservation and promotion of fado music, gives us an interesting background to this distinctive music style.
Like, did you know that the fado song Can’t we be Friends was recorded by Bing Crosby, Ella Fitzgerald and Frank Sinatra? Or that the song Old Lisbon, recorded as an instrumental by American bandleader Nelson Riddle, topped the Billboard charts for four weeks in February 1956?
While much of fado’s recent history is undisputable, there is still some argument about its origins. According to World Music Central, some say it first came as a dance from Africa in the 19th century and was adopted by the poor on the streets of Lisbon. “Or perhaps it started at sea as the sad, melodic songs of homesick sailors and fishermen?”.
Wikipedia says some trace its influences to the medieval cantigas de amigo (song of a friend), others suggest a Moorish influence and some point to the chants of enslaved Africans sailing at sea. Then there was Brazilian music critic José Ramos Tinhorão who said that fado was brought to Portugal by a mixed-race Brazilian musician called Domingos Caldas Barbosa in the mid-18th century.
As to the word fado, it possibly comes from the Latin word fatum (fate, death or utterance). The word is linked
Often characterised by lyrics infused with a sense of melancholy and fate, fado is sometimes captured by the Portuguese word, saudade, meaning longing or yearning.
to the music genre itself, although both meanings are almost the same in the two languages, with many songs playing on the double meaning – for example, Amalia Rodrigues’s song Com que Voz, which includes the lyrics com que voz chorarei meu triste fado (with what voice should I lament my sad fate/sing my sad fado?).
According to fado historian and scholar Rui Vieira Nery: “the only reliable information on the history of fado goes back to the 1820 and 1830s at best”.
However, most agree that it came from the back streets of Lisbon, more popularly the Bairro Alto, Mouraria and Alfama districts, and its performers were mainly from the urban working-class – sailors, bohemians, fish wives, courtesans and prostitutes –who sang and danced the fado. During the second half of the century, the dance rhythms faded away and the performers evolved into fadistas (singers).
One of the first known fado divas was Maria Severa Onofriana. Born in Lisbon in 1820, she is considered the first fado singer to achieve widespread fame during her short life – she died of tuberculosis aged just 26. Being a singer, guitar player and courtesan, Maria was considered scandalous by many at the time, but today
Above: the great Amalia Rodrigues, Portugal's pride and joy. Right: Maria Severa Onofriana was regarded as the first famous fado singer. Lisbon born and raised, she died in her twenties
she is regarded as an iconic figure in fado’s history with her home in Lisbon’s Mouraria district boasting the Largo da Severa square.
Often described as “the Portuguese blues”, fado is regarded as simply a form of song which can be about anything but must follow a certain traditional structure. Often characterised by mournful tunes and lyrics and infused with a sense of resignation, melancholy and fate, it is sometimes captured by the Portuguese word, saudade, loosely meaning longing or yearning.
However, in the 1950s a new generation of fado singers began introducing more optimistic ballad-like elements as a form of resistance against the Salazar dictatorship. Contemporary artists like Mariza have also incorporated more subtle emotions such as nostalgia, peacefulness and resilience.
To add to the fado mystery, there is another completely different form which comes from Coimbra and is performed exclusively by men. Linked to the city’s ancient university and the style of medieval serenading troubadors, dressed in dark robes, capes and leggings, it is sung at night in city squares or the steps of churches, also accompanied by the guitarra portuguesa and viola.
According to various sources, in the 1950s a new movement led the singers of Coimbra to interpret the lines of great poets, both classical and contemporary, as a resistance to the dictator Salazar, with names such as Adriano Correia de Oliveira and José Afonso playing a leading role in popular music during the Carnation Revolution of 1974.
But it is the fado of Lisbon which has mostly captured the hearts and souls of Portugal and the world around it. And it was in Lisbon that Amalia Rodrigues, known to the world as Portugal’s Queen of Fado, was born in 1920. She grew up in poverty but by 1935 she was singing professionally, taking fado to international audiences in Brazil, Europe and America. When she died in 1999, the prime minister called for three days of national mourning, and she was buried in the National Pantheon in Lisbon alongside other prominent Portuguese figures.
The beauty of fado is that it’s loved by most Portuguese of any age or origin. Decio Silva of the rock/ pop band Rudeboyz is an ardent fan, remembering listening to it growing up when his grandfather would perform desgarrada, a type of fado where two singers engage in a friendly musical ‘battle’, improvising lyrics and trying to outperform each other.
“That got me into fado and I’ve heard it all my life –every birthday party I ever had, and then as I got older I began buying albums as I’d come to Portugal (from Canada) and was feeling nostalgic,” says Decio. “I get goosebumps listening to the older style singers like Amalia Rodrigues. For me fado is about memories of old Portugal and it gives me a huge sense of pride in my country. I just love it.”
Having been somewhat ambivalent about fado, largely because of my ignorance and hearing one bad performance, my recent re-introduction to the sound of Portugal has left me captivated.
Dare I say, I may even be falling in love.
Need-to-know names and places
FAMOUS FADO SINGERS
Camané, considered the greatest traditional male fado singer of the new generation, he recorded several albums which have proved popular around the world from Europe to Asia.
Mariza, born in Mozambique to a Portuguese father and an African mother, she moved to Lisbon when she was a child. Famous across the globe, she has sung in some of the world’s biggest music venues.
Carlos do Carmo, aka the King of Fado, bridged the gap between traditional and modern fado, achieving worldwide success, at venues such as the Royal Albert Hall in London and Paris Olympia.
Ana Moura, a contemporary fado singer and one of Portugal’s best-selling artists, she has performed with many really big names in the music business, including Prince and The Rolling Stones.
LISBON
Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto, for emotional and intense performances and you never know who the next act will be.
Parreirinha de Alfama in Beco do Espírito Santo owned by fado legend Argentina Santos.
Senhor Vinho in Rua do Meio à Lapa has helped launch countless fadistas, including Mariza and Camané.
PORTO
Ideal Clube de Fado Porto offers traditional daily fado performances.
Casa da Guitarra Daily 60-minute shows to enjoy with a glass of port.
Casa da Mariquinhas is one of the oldest fado houses in Porto and stages performances during dinner.
O Fado for traditional Portuguese cuisine and superb fado. And a great place for a private event.
TAVIRA
Fado com História Monday to Saturday. €10.
FARO
Church of Mercy Fado Film and Live Performance in a 50-minute show, €9.50.
ALMANCIL
Arcadas do Fado Tuesday to Sunday, 20h00–00h30 for great food and fado.
AUTHENTIC FADO VENUES
Fado com História
GRIT YOUR TEETH
BORED SITTING BY THE POOL OR SUNNING ON THE BEACH? READY TO NOD OFF? WE’VE GOT TWO CHALLENGES THAT WILL KEEP YOU WIDE AWAKE, AND POSSIBLY HUGELY FRUSTRATED. ALL YOU NEED IS SOMETHING TO WRITE WITH AND A BIT OF DETERMINATION. GOOD LUCK (AND TELL US HOW LONG THEY TOOK YOU!)
FIND THE VEGGIES
Open: Tuesday to Saturday, 09h00 to 15h00
Rua Dr. Miguel Bombarda, 42, Olhão | casaamor-olhao.com | Insta: casa_amor_olhao
THE ART STUDIO TAVIRA
THE BRAINCHILD OF TAVIRA-BORN AND RAISED ARTIST Â NGELO E AND HIS PARTNER PHOTOGRAPHER KATHRYN BARNARD, THEIR NEW VENTURE IS EXACTLY WHAT ITS NAME SUGGESTS, AN ATELIER OF HANDMADE, ONE-OF-A-KIND PIECES TO TREASURE, AND A CONCEPT DESIGNED TO INSPIRE OTHERS
Words: EDUARDO PORTAS
FIRST, a bit of background and the two people behind the vision of a space that delivers a special vibe.
It’s a gallery, a shop, a studio, a classroom, a combination that deals in all things artistic, from large paintings and collages to smaller items like drawings, cards, bookmarks and buttons. The walls are hung with signature artworks, the shelves are stacked with clever and often quirky personality pieces, the diary is getting fast-filled with names of those who want to join an art workshop with an intriguing and individual theme that makes them far more attractive than the usual ones on offer.
Kathryn Barnard was a commercial photographer for some 25 years in the United States. Living in the Pacific Northwest, she loved the intense beauty of the mountains and sea, but never acclimatised to the rainy, dark, cold
months. She was also drawn to living overseas and experiencing life outside the States. “I had been searching all over Europe with my list of necessities,” she says, “and found the exact house I had wanted. It just happened to be right here, in Tavira.”
Kathryn continues her work as a photographer here, while Ângelo E is a native Portuguese artist. He graduated from the renowned Arco, in Lisbon, and had lived, taught and exhibited in Lisbon, Paris, Rome and Como for the past 20 years. The two, who had decided individually to ride out the pandemic storm in Tavira, met through mutual friends.
“Ângelo came to the house to help me on a pond project I was doing,” recalls Kathryn. “At that moment, I was envisioning a photo journey drive to Mongolia. I asked him if he wanted to go. He said: ‘Sure, sounds like fun!’ That was it. We haven’t made it to Mongolia yet. But, it’s still on the top of our lists.
“As the world continues to change and escalate in intensity, we
have both found we love the quiet simplicity of Tavira. It is definitely a place that grows on you. It is also conveniently located to Seville and Malaga; being able to get to their major museums is a necessity for Ângelo’s art and inspiration."
“This is the Year of the Dragon, which is all about chasing your dreams and the desire to succeed, “says Ângelo. “We both feel that there are very positive changes happening here. With the Art Studio we are hoping to help attract more people with good energy and artistic vibes to come take advantage of the quality of life you get here.”
The couple have travelled throughout the Algarve and Alentejo. “The Alentejo is one of my favourite places,” says Kathryn. “It reminds me of where I grew up. And Aljezur is also somewhere I want to spend more time in. I love it.”
What started the thinking process for the new venture? “We both grew up in large cosmopolitan cities, and we miss the cultural vastness they have to offer. We think many people in and around Tavira feel the same,” says Ângelo.
“There are so many artists in the area, but no one can afford to have studios due to the high prices of purchasing or renting, but while our space isn’t big enough to be a shared work area, we hope to inspire others to help the art community of Tavira.”
“As creatives, we are always doing something,” adds Kathryn. “Ângelo is a prolific artist. Always producing! We recently moved his archive to the house and while going through it, I was losing my mind! So much good art! I was inspired to do something with all of it. I wanted others to enjoy it, as well.”
The couple talked about so many ideas, including a small restaurant, at one point... but they always stopped short because something about it didn’t feel right. Over the many exchanges of thoughts, the one that kept coming to the top was an open studio. A space where ÂngeloI could be working, but that was also open to the public; a welcoming place to come and be inspired.
all the boxes. A perfect location; the former owners were loved and loved that space; it was a successful shop that started as an atelier, years ago; it wasn’t too big or too small. The list goes on. We jumped at it! And happily, everything worked perfectly.”
The old store closed one week before Ângelo and Kathryn took possession. They had some cleaning and painting to do, a few small repairs, but it was in great condition as the former owners took real care of it. All they needed to do was make it their own.
“We may bring in the work of other artists in the future, but for now we are keeping it simple so we can get a feel for what it wants to become,” they say. “We want the space to breathe and always feel fresh. We want people to come back again and again and always feel like there is something new to see.”
Right now the space features works from the vast library of Ângelo’s, with small moments from Kathryn’s photo archive.
“We are not sure who our studio will attract, as of yet. It will find its audience. There are so many different talents who come through the Algarve. We are just hoping we inspire them to settle in Tavira and invest in its future,” says Ângelo.
“We walked the town all the time, looking at empty spots and locations," says Kathryn. “My mother was a big treasure mapper. As a child, if I ever wanted anything, she would say: ‘do a treasure map and it will happen’. The maps have gone by the wayside, but the concept is the same. I have always trusted my gut instinct about the properties I have acquired. So, when this place came up, it was a no-brainer – it ticked
“We would love the local council involved and for them to be supportive and create more of an art scene in Tavira.
Hopefully that will come when they see what can be achieved.”
This open studio is a result of Ângelo and Kathryn’s talents, passions and dedication to the arts. Visit it, and applaud.
Ângelo is an extremely gifted teacher – he taught at the ArCo in Lisbon for 12 years and also at Museu Paula Rego. He has carefully crafted the workshops that he will be hosting at The Art Studio Tavira throughout the year. Whether you are a beginner wanting to learn where to start, or an intermediate artist interested in honing your skills, Ângelo’s knowledge of art and techniques can help you find new paths in your personal journey.
Visit theartstudiotavira.com/workshops for regularly updated information. The workshops can also be reserved for small groups of eight people maximum.
The Art Studio Tavira will be Ângelo’s own working base. The retail area will house many special collections – perfect small gifts that you won’t find elsewhere
Time for Modern Living
MARINE
Bottlenose dolphins, playing out at sea, off the coast of Sagres
MARINE TOURS ARE BIG BUSINESS IN THE ALGARVE WITH ITS MILES OF RUGGED, PICTURESQUE COASTLINE AND EXPANSIVE WATERWAYS THAT FORM THE FAMOUS RIA FORMOSA. BUT WITH ANY WILDLIFE-BASED TOURIST ATTRACTION COMES A GREAT RESPONSIBILITY TO PROTECT THE AREA’S NATURAL HABITATS. ONE NOT-FOR-PROFIT ORGANISATION IS TRYING TO DO EXACTLY THAT
Words: LUCY MAYER
AIMM Portugal, or the Marine Environment Research Association, based in Albufeira, uses scientific research and education as tools towards the protection and conservation of marine species, namely marine megafauna, which include whales, dolphins, sharks and sea turtles.
You only have to do a quick Google scan of the coast to see the number of boat tours and excursions offering visitors the chance to see wild marine life, most notably dolphins, including common dolphins, bottlenose dolphins and even orcas. The Algarve is a very rich area in terms of marine biodiversity. In the inter-cross between the Mediterranean Sea and the North Atlantic Ocean, it is an area of passage for numerous species, and home a vast number of resident species. You can find whales, dolphins, sharks, rays, sea turtles, various fish species and the seahorse.
AIMM says because of this amazing variety, it is very important that the species and the habitats on which they depend are sustainably managed and adequately conserved. At the time the association was founded in 2010, there were no other scientific organisations focusing on whales and dolphins in this region.
AIMM started life as a small project with the primary aim of researching what types of marine life the Algarve’s waters are actually home to, and then how to protect them. Based on the voluntary work of its founder and another colleague, it’s today made up of young biologists who want to make the world a better place and “not just be another drop in the ocean.”
The goal is still to protect the marine environment, while creating more opportunities for those interested in marine biology in Portugal. AIMM’s core ethos is that it’s our everyday actions that can have a significant impact on marine species, not only in the Algarve but worldwide.
The first important thing we can all do is to start thinking sustainably: that means reducing the amount of rubbish that could eventually find its way into the ocean. Then, for those of us who eat fish, we should be looking at choosing fish species that are caught in a sustainable way and from less exploited species, like tuna and salmon. Researchers say this is paramount for helping to keep natural populations stable, and thus not harming other species which also depend on them as a resource.
Knowledge is key, that’s the message, hence the reason AIMM works more with young people. If we are informed about the species and habitats that exist, including the main issues that are harming them, we can start to make small changes that could lead to great benefits.
If we are informed about the species and the main issues that are harming them, we can start to make small changes that could lead to great benefits.
Lastly, AIMM says seeing a species in its natural environment is one of the greatest ways to raise awareness, but we must do so consciously. This is where excursions like boat tours come in.
Our simple presence in natural habitats can act as a disturbance to marine species, as human beings are generally large, loud and strange. It’s not surprising, then, that having big groups of humans travelling in large and loud boats to observe them (as is the case of whale- and dolphin-watching, but also snorkelling and diving activities) can severely impact the natural behaviour of species and their well-being.
This is why it is very important that we choose companies and experts who follow the guidelines that aim to minimise boat pressure and stress on the animals in the wild (for example, by conducting proper and safe approaches, and not exceeding the maximum number of boats or time spent in the animals’ vicinity).
Choosing sustainable eco-tourism is the best way to ensure we are not harming species or their habitats, while getting the chance to see all the amazing things that nature has to offer. AIMM has developed numerous partnerships with maritime tourist companies that offer whale and dolphinwatching trips within its particular study areas. By allowing the use of their vessels as platforms from which to collect research data, these partners play a crucial role in their work. At the same time, they provide AIMMS’ researchers with the opportunity to jointly develop crucial environmental education projects to encourage responsible behaviour at sea, mitigating the negative consequences of tourism on cetacean populations, and also relaying essential information to the general public regarding the conservation of our seas.
AIMM hosts an internship programme every year in which the participants join in ongoing projects at sea. AIMM also receives Bachelor, Master and PhD students who want to collaborate on projects featuring cetaceans or other marine megafauna. And there are coveted dolphin research internships where participants can help conduct studies on land and at sea and get up and close with dolphins in an environmentally sensitive way.
A final word from the AIMM team: “We all know that 70% of our planet is water, but a lesserknown fact is that these same oceans hold 96.5% of all water. Every creature within and around it contributes to its health – from the seagrass that gives it oxygen, to the cetaceans which balance the food chain. But we also play an important role in the conservation of the oceans and marine environment. Help us to preserve our oceans by supporting our research efforts for the conservation of the marine environment. No one can put a price on the ocean value, so no matter how much you donate, any contribution will be used to cover our research, equipment acquisition and maintenance expenses. Become a Hero of the Oceans!”
If you would like to look further into AIMM’s conservation work, you can find them on social media, at aimmportugal.org/our-work
SERRA DA ESTRELA, VILA
NOVA DE GAIA, SANTA CRUZ, LAGOS... NOT THE MOST OBVIOUS DESTINATIONS WHEN CHOOSING SUMMER RETREATS, WHICH IS PRECISELY WHY YOU SHOULD. MAKE THE LONG WEEKEND – 15 TO 18 AUGUST – THE BEST ONE OF THE YEAR, AWAY FROM THE CROWDS AND WHERE SUMMER FEELS DISTINCTLY DIFFERENT
Words: ISABEL ALVES
SUMMER
TIME OUT
Serra da Estrela
Breathing in
Serra da Estrela – the only place in Portugal with real snow was, for far too long, just a winter destination. It took us a while to recognise all that the big(gest) mountain (only surpassed by Pico in the Azores) has to offer during summer but, now that we have, we can’t get enough of it! With no oceanfront in sight, it is located in the centre of Portugal, but in the Beiras region where there are plenty of river beaches to refresh oneself (Unhais da Serra, Valhelhas, Loriga or Corte de Cima, to name a few), all with the purest water that comes straight nature.
There are some interesting hotels in the area, but the Burel Mountain Hotels remain on the top of the list for all the right reasons.
Burel is a traditional handmade fabric, very resistent and versatile, produced in Serra da Estrela with sheep wool. Isabel Costa and João Tomás, a couple from Lisbon who fell in love with Manteigas and all its possibilities, bought a burel factory that was almost dead, giving new life to an old industry while adding the ‘now’ factor to it. They developed several functional and decorative solutions using burel, and even created a ready-to-wear clothes line called Woolclopedia. But they also did something incredible for Serra da Estrela and for everyone who really wants to get away from it all: they opened two hotels, very different in style but equally special.
Casa de São Lourenço (casadesaolourenco. pt) overlooks the glacier valley that was formed near Manteigas and offers is guests the true mountain experience: a big communal fireplace (lit whenever the weather demands a warm spot for the evening), historic design pieces (signed by the Portuguese modernista artist Maria Keil) restored and kept, hearty food with
local flavours and all the silence – it can be ‘listened to’ in the balconies and the terrace – that we sometimes crave.
And a bit up the road – this is a moutain after all – there is Casa das Penhas Douradas (casadaspenhasdouradas. pt). With a more nordic feel, with lots of light wood and old skiing devices around, it has many private corners (inside and outside), perfect for one plus a book.
For the total Burel Mountain Hotels experience, try both, and follow the very nice team’s advice and go for hikes in the mountain (there are several trails and astonishing viewpoints), try the spa treatments and pools for relaxation and let them organise you a picnic on top of one of the many massive rocks or by the rivers. You’ll return home revitalised and with your next trip to Serra da Estrela already planned.
Opposite page, top: Penhas Douradas; below: Casa de São Lourenço, both in Serra da Estrela. This page, left and below: Vinha Boutique Hotel in Vila Nova de Gaia
Vila Nova de Gaia Santa Cruz
Riverfront
We all deserve to place ourselves on the most exquisite scenario once in a while. Vinha Boutique Hotel (vinhaboutiquehotel.com), in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the river from Porto, takes us to another era while providing the maximum modern comfort.
Three reasons to book a couple of nights here: 1: Located next to the Douro river (it even has its own pier) it is a palace from the XVI century, surrounded by three hectares of perfectly manicured gardens. 2: It has the stamp of approval of The Leading Hotels of the World. 3: There are signature rooms inspired by fashion houses such as Kenzo, Etro, Hermès, Missoni and Ralph Lauren.
And if those were not good enough reasons, there’s also the two-Michelin starred food offer (the hotel boasts two restaurants and two bars) led by chef Henrique Sá Pessoa. And, of course, there’s the list of experiences to choose from: boarding the hotel’s yacht, enjoying an afternoon tea in the lush rooms or tasting some incredible wines.
Still trying to find a reason not to go?
Going west
A Zona Oeste is just 40 minutes from Lisbon but presents an entirely different world. Rural but also with incredible beaches, ideal for those who enjoy long walks by the seaside whatever the temperature, it’s becoming an increasingly popular alternative for holidays or long weekends. One of the most special places to stay is Areias do Seixo (areiasdoseixo.com). A choice for those tying the knot in style, it also is the ideal getaway for a few days of peace and quiet (and organic meals).
When you enter the hotel the first word that comes to mind is ‘sustainability’, but not in the general sense that banalized the concept. Decorated with old wood and natural materials, it has that boho comfort that makes you want to stay. In the restaurant, all is seasonal and many products are picked in the hotel’s vegetable garden – the guests can even go there and check if the chickens have laid some eggs!
Those staying in the villas (with private pools) have breakfast in the greenhouse – one of the most magic spots in Areias do Seixo. Some days there’s a fire circle, in which everyone is invited to participate, by playing an instrument or just singing along...
Lagos
Green & blue
Away from the crowds – is that possible in the Algarve during summer? It is. You just have to choose the right Algarve. Lagos can get busy but it all calms down when you approach Palmares Ocean Living & Golf (palmaresliving.com). Built next to one of the most loved golf courses in Europe, it is a peaceful haven even for those who don’t ‘putt for birdie’.
Situated in a large natural amphitheatre, 70 metres above sea-level, it descends towards the Alvor estuary. This amazing location, together with a very controlled construction plan gives it an island-like feel.
You can stay at the charming hotel facing the ocean or rent one of the apartments, all very independent of eah other and seemingly ‘melted’ into the surrounding greenery.
And then there’s the beautiful clubhouse. Designed by Pritzker Prize winning architects studio, RCR Architects, it is an incredible building, the right spot for enjoying the sunset. And it’s exactly there that the one Michelin star Al Sud restaurant awaits you for a meal that – believe me – you won’t forget. Chef Louis Anjos and his team lead you on a unique journey of flavours, textures and culinary surprises.
The wine pairing – please don’t skip the cocktail moment on the terrace first – highlighting local wines is brilliant and every dish is perfectly chosen to serve the whole experience. The chef will surprise you with the best ingredients interpreted by his talent. Expect butterfly or flower shaped toasts and Portuguese tiles on the table, the most delicious fish (the squid is unbelivable!) and a gastronomic sequence that will stay in your memory for a long long time. What are holidays if not memory-making filled moments?
Top left and below: Areias do Seixo in Santa Cruz.
Bottom: Palmares Ocean Living & Golf, in Lagos
NEW great
99’ NINETY NINE, Almancil
DAVID CAMPUS, CO-FOUNDER OF AUSTA, DISCOVERED A LITTLE EATERIE WHERE THE COOKING IS FROM THE HEART, AND THE FLAVOURS ARE TOTALLY ORIGINAL. 99 ’ N INETY NINE IS POSSIBLY PORTUGAL’ S MOST AUTHENTIC MEXICAN STREET FOOD, HE RECKONS
JUST MOMENTS beyond the railway line in Almancil, amidst a charming cluster of village houses, is a tiny roadside restaurant/ bar that, without knowing what lay behind its doors, could be assumed to be a local dive bar. Unbeknownst to us until recently, it is, in fact, a place that acts as a testament to resilience, family, and culinary passion.
Run by a small family with a rich tapestry of cultural heritage, this has quickly become my favourite spot for deeply authentic Mexican food in Portugal – pulling me back to gastronomic explorations of the vibrant street food scene of Mexico City on our travels in 2019.
The story begins at Jalisco, where Mario (a Mexican national), and his wife Marynés, having emigrated from Venezuela in search of a more stable life, faced an emotional decision during the pandemic. As the world projected a catastrophic future, they made the difficult
decision to leave Puerto Vallarta and come to Europe, seeking safety and a closer connection to Marynés’ Portuguese family. The pair chose the quietness of the Algarve, aiming to support their daughter, Dana, in returning to in-person school classes and her dream of studying art.
Back home in Mexico, Mario and Marynés ran two small but beloved local restaurants, delivering traditional Venezuelan food to the Mexican palate, adapting it with a signature spicy touch, and it seemed natural to continue their passion for home cooking in their new found surroundings. They bought a humble space, transforming it into their own casual spot where they could conjure central American flavours.
Today, 99’ Ninety Nine is a unique fusion of authentic Mexican flavours and Venezuelan cuisine. Having spent her life immersed in the culture of Puerto Vallarta, Marynés quickly learnt the art of Mexican cooking from family and friends. Her specialities include tacos de birria, enchiladas, tamales, empanadas, and quesadillas. Whilst so many others
and Mexican tang
choose mass-produced variations of hard and soft shell tacos, what truly sets these guys apart from the rest are their freshly made corn tortillas, crafted from white, yellow, or blue corn flour, bringing an authentic flavour that cannot be replicated with Western alternatives.
This is no fast food joint as everything is prepared from scratch, so we pass time sipping homemade ‘Micheladas’, a popular Mexican beer cocktail, rarely made to perfection outside of its origin country. The ginormous cup arrives, dripping with condensation in the lunchtime heat and the cool salt rim is a tangy precursor to the flavours within – a rush of tart lime juice followed quickly by the effervescence of beer and a glug of clamato – a robust refresher to the spicy tacos we are inhaling.
Simple and basic inside – the focus is the food – or sit in the sun under big white umbrellas
for real choice
The result is a humble totally unexpected restaurant and catering service (Mario and Marynés provide catering services bringing woodfire and Mexican flavours to your home!) that is not only a testament to their journey and resilience but also a celebration of their rich culinary heritage and home cooking.
99’ Ninety Nine has quickly become my most cherished spot in Almancil, where I can savour the perfect blend of Mexican and Venezuelan flavours, crafted with their love, kindness and passion.
ADDRESS
THE BEST
THIS MONTH’S HIDDEN GEM TAKES US JUST FIVE KILOMETRES FROM OUR HOME IN THE HILLS OF LOULÉ TO THE PRETTY NEIGHBOURING TOWN OF SÃO BRÁS DE ALPORTEL, AND CASA QUATRO, THE LATEST ADDITION TO THE ALGARVE’S MOST STYLISH HOSPITALITY BRAND, THE ADDRESSES
Words: EMMA CAMPUS
FOUNDED BY two friends from Belgium, art director Ludovic and wine connoisseur Bert, their collection of holiday homes are the culmination of their combined curiosity for a deeper cultural connection during vacations in the Algarve. As intrepid travellers themselves, they were inspired to offer modern tourists an authentic glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of the Algarve beyond sun, sand and sea.
The result? Four off-the-beaten-path locations that offer a distinctive, discreet concierge service and provide a unique window into local life for their dedicated and self-cultivated community of likeminded guests from all over the world.
Welcomed by tranquil and charming streets that offer an authentic taste of Algarvian life, far removed from the usual crowds of the seaside spots, we arrive in São Brás de Alportel. Following Google maps, we trundle along the cobbles with our suitcases towards the house, underneath blooming jacaranda trees and past the pristine white façade of a 16th-century church.
As we turn a corner onto a small square flanked by citrus trees, we see the beaming face of Mario, our concierge and the host of each of The Addresses’ four properties, as he stands outside the unassuming entrance of Casa Quatro. The perfect host, he greets us like old friends and welcomes us inside.
From making restaurant reservations and organising cultural visits, adventurous private boat trips to the deserted islands, or arranging soothing massages – it is Mario’s discreet yet attentive service that makes a stay at The Addresses special. After a final exchange of WhatsApp details so he can be on hand for us throughout our stay, Mario bids us goodbye and we are left to delve into our surroundings.
Bert and Ludovic’s renovation of Casa Quatro is carried out with a focus on preserving the historical integrity of the building, as indeed each house under The Addresses banner is chosen for its unique location and rich backstory. Like its predecessors (Casa Um in Moncarapacho, Casa Dois in Olhão and Casa Três in Vila Real de Santo Antonio) the former trading house from 1937 has been lovingly restored in collaboration with Lisbon-based Atelier Rua, a practice renowned for their love of vernacular architecture and skills for protecting traditional features.
We admire the open living space under a vaulted brick ceiling, complete with open kitchen and cosy living area and fireplace. We notice playful design objects and quirky furniture, a whimsical thread that joins together each of The Addresses homes and a style that preserves historical essence while infusing contemporary style and modern comforts. This seamless blend of old and new makes Casa Quatro truly enchanting.
Choosing one of four en-suite bedrooms is a challenge, as the house comfortably accommodates up to eight guests across different wings. Each
Pale muted colours and carefullyselected furnishings and accessories add to the calm of the atmosphere that makes Casa Quatro special
room is a cool sanctuary with king-size beds, muted linens, and en-suite bathrooms carved out of old enclaves, featuring locally sourced scents. We select one at the top of the house with a private rooftop terrace offering views of the surrounding hills and neighbouring rooftops. Making coffee in the kitchen with state-of-the-art appliances, we relax on the roof as the sky turns a beaming shade of azul, listening to the rhythms of sleepy village life below.
That afternoon, feeling ready to explore, we set out to slope through São Brás’ narrow streets lined with whitewashed dwellings and colourful doors, their facades adorned with tiles, vibrant bougainvillea, and old signs in retro fonts that hint at the village’s storied past.
We stop for a light lunch at Casa da Barreira, a place located in the old quarter labyrinth. We chose a table in the courtyard, where the dappled sunlight warms a friendly cat purring in the corner, we snack on pot of Portuguese tinned sardines and open toasts.
Simple, but just right
In search of supplies, we discover Portal dos Queijos, a tiny leiteria selling fresh cheese opposite the municipal market. We buy bread, and picky bits for the weekend, passing to tip hats at a group of checkshirted-gentlemen deep into a game of dominos. Ambling back to the house we spend the afternoon in the sanctuary of the walls of Casa Quatro, dipping in and out of the heated plunge pool, reading on the day bed, a space that epitomises relaxation.
As the evening sets in, we ascend to the roof with wine from Casa Quatro’s honesty bar (curated by Bert, of course) to drink in the sunset and bear witness to families below gathering for their evening meal. The soft murmur of conversation and village gossip floats through the air as the scent of grilled fish fills our nostrils. This simple act of observing life in São Brás provides us with a reminder of the beauty of everyday moments and the importance of slowing down to appreciate them.
The next morning we awake with plans of diving into the town’s monthly flea market, a bustling event filled with antique wares and hidden treasures, and we spend a
leisurely morning wandering through the stalls, discovering old pots and ceramics and soaking up the lively atmosphere. It’s a vibrant tapestry of sights and sounds, with locals and visitors mingling and bargaining.
Mario tells us to drive next to the tiny hamlet of Barranco do Velho in the São Brás serra and a quaint café, Spot na Serra, run by a couple from London, who have renovated an old roadside Casa dos Cantoneiros. The scenic journey features winding roads and beautiful views and we indulge in their freshly roasted speciality coffee and homemade cakes. To work it off, we embark on a (literally!) breathtaking hike under the canopy of pine, oak, and carob trees, seeing no one but a lone beekeeper tending to his hives.
That evening, we are joined by friends who live locally and we set up dinner in the outdoor atrium under an arched ceiling. We light tall church candles and cook in candlelight on the barbeque, drenching salads made up of our market finds in olive oil left for us by Bert and Ludovic that they sourced from a local farm. It’s one of the few things offered by the pair to provide a gateway for guests who stay at the house to discover more about the story of their destination.
As the sun sets and the walls of the house turn from white to black, we draw the curtains on a blissful day.
We try to explain to Mario when he meets us for check-out, that it wasn’t just the luxurious accommodations that made our stay so memorable, but rather about how we felt during our stay. The serene environment, combined with the attentive service and authentic local experiences, has left us with lasting memories and a deep appreciation for the way of life in this often overlooked part of the Algarve.
Bert and Ludovic, through their much hyped brand The Addresses, have seamlessly perfected the art of subtle and experiential hospitality, creating spaces where guests engage in as much or as little as they see fit, choosing to switch off and recharge, or to connect with their surroundings, coming back to a home away from home and an unforgettable stay that captures the essence of the East Algarve like no other.
THE ADDRESSES E: stay@theaddresses.com / W: theaddresses.com/houses
Lisbon whites
WITH MODERN WINEMAKING METHODS COMBINED WITH CENTURIES-OLD TRADITIONS, PORTUGAL ’ S WHITE WINES ARE WINNING ADMIRERS ALL OVER THE WORLD. FROM THE CITRUSY FRESHNESS OF ARINTOS TO THE FLORAL ELEGANCE OF ENCRUZADOS, THERE IS A PORTUGUESE WHITE WINE FOR EVERY PALATE AND OCCASION
Words: LÍVIA MOKRI
CLOSE TO LISBON, the tradition of vineyard cultivation resists the expansion of urban areas. Bucelas and Colares are regions that stand out for their unique and historic wines. Further away from the Atlantic coast, the vineyards cultivated in Bucelas benefit from a specific microclimate and an exceptional terroir. Its Arinto wine has been a reference for centuries. The region of Colares is closer to the sea, resting on two hills in the Serra de Sintra, and produces famous red wines aged in wood.
BUCELAS
Bucelas was demarcated by royal charter in 1908. Located 25km north of Lisbon, it is the only Portuguese region suitable for producing only white wines. Here, the Arinto grape is the protagonist with a minimum of 75%, the balance made up with Esgana-Cão (Sercial) and Rabo de Ovelha varieties. The microclimate marked by the influence of the fogs from the Tagus River, the winds that blow from the Atlantic Ocean, and the clay-limestone soils full of marine sediments give
the Arinto variety a mineral contribution and firm acidity. This results in wines with a strong character, dryness, elegance and the ability to age.
The unique style of Arinto wine from Bucelas dates back to the Phoenicians and Romans. It was mentioned by Shakespeare, in his play Henry VI, and made famous in the English court by General Wellington, where it was known as Lisbon Hock.
In its complex white wines, with a citrine colour and fruity flavour and aroma, acidity and minerality stand out. These special white wines have been given awards nationally and internationally. Here are those I recommend:
Morgado de Bucelas
Sociedade Agrícola Boas Quintas started to produce wines in 1991 in the Dão region. In 2010, it extended its area of production to other regions, including Bucelas. Its citriccoloured white wine, produced from the Arinto grape variety, presents lime, green apple, and mineral aromas.
On the palate, it highlights freshness and minerality, with a persistent finish.
1 boasquintas.com/en/produto/morgado-de-bucelas/
Murgas White DOC Bucelas
The Quinta das Murgas family estate is located in Bucelas. The wine business was important for the family and the relationship João França shared with his grandfather who he accompanied on his daily walks through the vineyard, and helping with the harvest led João to develop a taste for quality wine. Murgas was born in 2017, taking its name from the Quinta where it is produced.
Arinto grape ensures musts with a high acidity content; Murgas Bucelas is a wine with a serious and deep character, and great longevity.
2 en.murgas.pt/loja/p/vinho-branco-murgaslisboa
COLARES
The smallest wine region in Portugal, Colares is also probably one of its most distinct. Located on the coastline of Sintra between the hills and the Atlantic, the region owes its fame to the amazing wines produced in the sandy soil close to the ocean. The nearby Cabo de Roca is the westernmost point in continental Europe that was described by Portugal’s great poet Luis de Camões as: “onde a terra se acaba e o mar começa” (where land ends and the sea begins).
The vines have to be protected from the winds, humidity, and salt from the sea; the traditional dried-reed fences that surround Colares’ vineyards are a centuries-old solution to this problem.
Another reason why these vines are so special is that they fought phylloxera, the plague that wiped out most European vineyards in the late 19th century. While almost all of the vines in Portugal were dying, this small region resisted these pests, thanks to the sandy soil and the vines’ deeper roots.
Since the 13th century, Colares wine received a nobility distinction; after the phylloxera disease, it became the first Portuguese table wine.
Soil is key in this region. The sandy and the heavy clays are fundamental to Colares’ viticulture. Wines made from vines planted on any other soil type cannot be legally sold as Colares.
The grape varieties are, like the region itself, distinct and different. The queen is the red Ramisco, which gives pronounced acidity and a great concentration of tannins. Although Ramisco is genetically linked to Pinot Noir, it is inimitable, and extremely elegant.
When it comes to the whites, one of the main grapes is the Malvasia of Colares, which is exclusive to the region, and Galego Dourado, which helps to balance some of the stronger acidity that in cooler years the Malvasia de Colares may have.
Be sure to taste the wines of Colares, if you like unique and unforgettable experiences. Here are my recommendations for wine tours and tastings:
Casal Sta Maria Malvasia
To be considered Colares DOC, the grapes have to grow in the region’s sandy soil; wines made from grapes growing in clay soil are called Vinho Regional de Lisboa. This is the type of wine produced by Casal de Santa Maria, a winery with a romantic story behind it.
In the 1960s, Baron Bodo von Bruemmer, originally from the Baltics but living in Switzerland, decided to retire in Portugal and fell in love with a beautiful farm close to Cabo da Roca, which he renovated with utmost care. The gardens also needed considerable work – in fact a lovely blue and white tiled fountain, hidden for years by overgrown bushes, was not discovered until 2006. The baron didn’t begin making wine immediately – he was preoccupied with farming and his
Previous page: Quinta de San Michel in Colares This page: the vineyards of Sociedade Agrícola Boas Quintas in Bucelas
successful horse-breeding business, but after his wife Rosário died in 1994, he planted 5,000 roses next to the vineyards as a tribute to her. That explains Casal’s dreamlike landscape where roses bloom amongst the grapes against the backdrop of the blue ocean. And this brings us to the name of the rosé, Mar de Rosas (Sea of Roses).
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In 2006, despite being 96 years old, the Baron decided to start producing wine; as he saw it, there’s no such thing as too late or too old. Ten years later, he accomplished his dream with the help of his grandson Nicholas. When he died that same year, Nicholas moved to Casal de Santa Maria with his family, keeping the heritage alive.
The grapes are grown in clay, not sandy soil, but they still produce surprisingly salty whites under the name Casal de Santa Maria. This bright greenish-coloured wine from the Malvasia grape has light floral aromas characteristic of the variety, fresh and vibrant notes of anise and tangerine.
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Malvarinto
Quinta de San Michel is located between the mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. The vineyard was planted in 2013, in typical sandy soils. In 2017, the winery launched one of the unique wines in the region, a blend of the Arinto and Malvasia grapes, which has become the Quinta’s hallmark.
The wine is straw yellow in colour, fresh, and with excellent aromatic complexity, with notes of citrus, peach, pineapple, seaweed, coconut and some balsamic. On the palate, it has a vibrant acidity, and at the end a saline component that gives it a long and persistent finish. It pairs well with meat dishes such as suckling pig or oven-roasted lamb.
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FLOWERS
from the classics to the contemporary
IN CONTRAST TO THE EARLIEST DEPICTIONS OF FLOWERS, MODERN DAY INTERPRETATIONS BY THE SPANISH ARTIST FRAN MORA ARE STRIPPED DOWN TO THEIR SIMPLEST FORMS AND MARKED WITH VIBRANT COLOURS
Words: CAROLYN KAIN
AVASE OF FLOWERS, a bowl of fruit or an ice-cream cone, these are the sort of everyday items that Fran Mora turns into unexpected works of contemporary art. An object that we might take for granted is transformed by layering gesso and oils onto linen; sometimes adding paper and fabric to create texture to the surface. Using specific painting techniques, a glass vase becomes translucent and the flowers’ stems are strangely distorted by the water.
Compare this to the first known independent studies of flowers standing in stone vases. Painted in 1562 onto two wooden panels, one is of irises and the other of lilies. The Latin inscriptions on the vases suggest the pictures probably had a practical function painted onto doors made for an apothecary’s cabinet.
In the late 16th century, true life studies of flowers and plants began to be created for scientific purposes. By the beginning of the next century, cut flowers were being used by artists as subject matter in their own right.
They strived to recreate the beauty and the fragrance of a flower by producing a well-painted canvas. The original owners of these paintings were usually royalty or well-to-do merchants who were highly knowledgeable about flowers. Paintings
Bright colours – which are your personal favourites?
I always use vibrant colours; one of my favourites is fluorescent pink.
How long do you spend on a single work?
There are paintings that come out in a direct way while others become more complicated and take longer over time.
Is your own home full of brilliant contrasts?
I really like white and minimalist decoration – I think less is more.
Flower arrangements –what comes first, the vase or the blooms?
I usually start with the flowers, with an energetic, intuitive brushstroke, and then continue with the vase area in a more precise way.
of glossy bouquets of totally realistic flowers were set against black backgrounds and became the height of good taste hanging in every fashionable grand home or palace.
In the Netherlands where ‘tulip mania’ was taking place, the artists played with nature combining blooms from different seasons in a single painting. They certainly were not painted from life but more likely from a combination of different studies put together over the course of several months.
Such oil paintings remained popular across Western Europe, and the style only became outdated in the 19th century when ‘romantic’ artists such as Manet produced smaller, less botanically accurate floral studies. Influenced by younger ‘impressionist’ painters of the time he experimented with the effects of light and shadow on the colours of the petals and the leaves, making their appearance less defined. During his final year, Manet had fresh flowers brought to him each morning reminding him of the transience of their life and his own.
Later artists worked even more loosely than Manet using confident, spontaneous brush strokes. There are numerous examples of bouquets in vases that include paintings by Renoir, Gauguin, Cézanne and Matisse. The most prolific was Van Gogh, the grand master of sunflowers as displayed in a variety of vases. Stimulated to paint flowers, Fran Mora graduated from the School of Fine Art in Seville. His paintings have been exhibited in New York, Singapore, London, Edinburgh, Cheltenham, and Ascot, among other places.
Galeria Côrte-Real in Paderne is his sole representative in the Algarve.
Do you have a vision of the end result you are seeking before you start?
None, the painting changes and evolves many times – it goes where it wants.
Describe your own favourite vase. My favourite would be a mixture of brushstrokes with a lot of texture and gestures in flowers and a clean transparent vase.
INTO THE
READING SOUL OF PORTUGAL
IPORTUGUESE LITERATURE PULSES WITH A RAW, UNVARNISHED EMOTIONALISM THAT SETS IT APART. FROM EXTRAORDINARY EXPLORATION EPICS TO THE SHADOWY DEPTHS OF THE HUMAN CONDITION, OUR AUTHORS HAVE CONSISTENTLY DEMONSTRATED A FLAIR FOR THE DRAMATIC AND A PENCHANT FOR MIMING THE COMPLEXITIES OF THE INTERIOR SELF
Words: CHRISTINA MORENO
F YOU want to truly know Portugal, read its writers. Through the stories, poems and philosophical musings of Portugal’s most renowned authors, you will gain access to the lived experiences, perspectives and creative visions that have shaped this nation’s identity over the centuries.
Here we offer a quick look into the lives and legacies of some of Portugal’s most influential legendary writers. Although some of their names may be unfamiliar, these authors have earned a place in the pantheon of world literature. From sweeping national epics of the Renaissance to the modernist innovations of the 20th century and beyond, Portuguese literature offers a rich and rewarding journey for any reader seeking to understand this country’s soul.
Luís de Camões
(1524 –10 June 1579 or 1580)
Luís de Camões is considered Portugal’s greatest poet and one of the most influential figures in Portuguese literature. His personal life was marked by adventure and adversity, having lost an eye while participating in various military expeditions. Camões’ magnum opus, Os Lusíadas, published in 1572, is widely regarded as the national epic of Portugal, celebrating the nation’s Age of Discovery and the pioneering voyage to India led by Vasco da Gama. Comprising an astounding 1,102 stanzas, this work has drawn comparisons to the literary masterpieces of Dante, Homer and Shakespeare. In recognition of his unparalleled literary contributions, the day of Camões’ passing is now observed as the national ‘Portugal Day.’
DID YOU KNOW: Luís de Camões is believed to have been a distant cousin of explorer Vasco da Gama, with their tombs situated side-by-side in Lisbon’s Jerónimos Monastery, the site that also holds the final resting place of Fernando Pessoa.
de Queiróz
(25 November 1845–16 August 1900)
Eça de Queiróz was a prominent Portuguese author frequently compared to Charles Dickens for his incisive social commentary and rich narrative style.
After moving to Lisbon in 1866, he joined a circle of writers committed to using the written word to drive social reform. Throughout his life, Queiróz spent time living abroad, also serving as a Portuguese consul in cities like Havana, Newcastle, Bristol, and ultimately Paris, where he died in 1900. His fiction was shaped by both Naturalism and Romanticism, as he used his novels to dissect what he perceived as the social decadence and backwardness of late 19th-century Portugal that he blamed on the monarchy, the aristocracy and the Catholic Church. Queiróz’ most acclaimed work, The Maias, is considered by fellow Nobel laureate José Saramago to be “the greatest novel by Portugal’s greatest novelist.” Although only five of his 12 novels were published during his lifetime, Queiróz’ rich, passionate storytelling and biting social satire have cemented his status as a towering figure in Portuguese literature.
SUGGESTED READING: His first novel, The Mystery of the Sintra Road, and The Maias: Episodes from Romantic Life.
Florbela Espanca
(8 December 1894–8 December 1930)
Once called his ‘twin soul’ by the legendary Fernando Pessoa, Florbela Espanca was a pioneering literary voice whose deeply emotive poetry explored themes of love, suffering and longing. Although she lived a tragically short life marked by personal turmoil and loneliness, Espanca’s work transcended the barriers imposed on women in early 20th-century Portuguese society.
From the age of eight, Espanca’s poems displayed a maturity and intensity that foreshadowed her future acclaim. Defying convention, she became one of the first women to attend an all-male secondary school. She later enrolled in the University of Lisbon’s law programme – all the while asserting her independence through ‘rebellious’ choices like wearing pants, which at the time was strictly prohibited for a woman.
Espanca’s literary collection, much of it springing from her own experiences with love, loss, and disenchantment, has been praised for its raw sensuality and uncompromising honesty. Despite her short life, the legacy of this trailblazing poet continues to resonate, offering a window into the complexities of the human experience through a distinctly feminine lens.
SUGGESTED
READING: The poetry collection
This Sorrow That Lifts Me Up, which is considered a masterpiece of Portuguese literature along with Sonets and her novel The Masks of Destiny.
PESSOA
FERNANDO
(13 June 1888–30 November 1935)
As one of the most influential figures in the 20th century and one of the greatest poets in the Portuguese language, Fernando Pessoa’s name is likely already familiar. He was a poet, writer, philosopher, literary critic, translator and publisher. Even so, his personal life was marked by solitude, eccentricity, and a profound sense of detachment from mainstream society. Not surprisingly, what truly sets Pessoa apart is the unparalleled depth and complexity with which he seemed to intuitively explore the depths of human interior life. Famously, Pessoa published works under dozens of distinct pen names, which he called ‘heteronyms,’ each with its own unique backstory and writing style, under which he explored a vast spectrum of perspectives and poetic sensibilities. His landmark work, the unfinished masterpiece The Book of Disquiet, is a compilation of fragmented writings that were not published until decades after his death.
The impact of Pessoa’s singular voice, whether through writing lyrical verse under the name Álvaro de Campos, or delving into the existential anxieties of the Lisbon everyman as Ricardo Reis, will transport you on a mind-bending journey through a study of life, identity, consciousness and the human condition.
SUGGESTED
READING:
The Book of Disquiet and Mensagem (Message), a collection of 44 symbolic, coded poems that Pessoa used to celebrate Portugal’s heroic past and call for the nation’s spiritual and cultural revival.
DE MELLO BREYNER ANDRESEN
SOPHIA
(6 November 1919–2 July 2004)
Sophia de Mello Breyner
Andresen was born in the city of Porto, her upbringing a unique blend of Danish bourgeois and old Portuguese aristocratic influences. Educated within the framework of traditional Christian morality, Andresen would go on to become one of Portugal’s most celebrated writers and poets, earning widespread acclaim and numerous prestigious awards. In 1999, she made history as the first Portuguese woman to receive the Camões Prize. Her complete body of work spanned multiple genres, including poetry, essays, and short stories, captivating readers of all ages.
Renowned as ‘poet of the sea,’ Andresen’s writings were quite diverse as she explored universal themes like nature, love, freedom and Ancient Greek culture. Andresen also wrote about the human condition, namely the need to achieve a fairer society. Interestingly, Andresen sometimes wrote about subjects such as putrefaction, death and decay, which was unusual for female poets at the time. During Portugal’s dictatorship in the 1960s and 70s, she used her art as a powerful tool of resistance, even earning a seat in Parliament through her civic engagement. In addition to her poetic prowess, Andresen distinguished herself as a skilled translator, bringing the works of Dante and Shakespeare to Portuguese readers.
This beloved poet’s most celebrated collection, Mar Novo (New Sea), published in 1958, is considered a masterpiece of Portuguese literature and one of the greatest literary achievements of the 20th century. Fittingly, select poems from this work have been permanently displayed at the Lisbon Oceanarium since 2005.
Some of her own poetry has been translated into English by acclaimed translator Richard Zenith. Andresen passed away in 2004 at the age of 84, with her final resting place in the National Pantheon in Lisbon.
SUGGESTED READING: The poems in Mar Novo as mentioned above and her collection of short stories, Exemplary Tales, which focuses on poverty, suffering and the need to achieve a fairer society.
JOSÉ SARAMAGO
José Saramago’s life would eventually be marked by a series of accolades, including the prestigious Camões Prize in 1995 and the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1998. However, Saramago himself remained humble, downplaying the significance of these awards and focusing instead on his work and its impact on the world. Considered one of the most important international writers of the past hundred years, you may want to add him to your reading list, if you haven’t already.
Born to poor parents in a small village in Ribatejo, Saramago’s unconventional views on life, including his membership in the communist party and his atheism, made him an unexpected success. His innovative writing style was a blend of historical and literary fiction, infused with symbolism and magical realism as well as an experimental prose style that often included sentences over a page long.
Saramango’s most controversial work, The Gospel According to Jesus Christ, was published in 1991. The novel sparked outrage among the Catholic church due to its portrayal of Jesus as a flawed and imperfect human. The ensuing scandal led Saramago to relocate to the Canary Islands, where he remained until his death from cancer in 2010.
SUGGESTED READING: Saramago’s acclaimed novel The Year of the Death of Ricardo Reis, a rich, multilayered exploration of Portugal’s political and social climate brought to life through the author’s ingenious incorporation of Fernando Pessoa’s literary alter ego. Another option is Blindness, his thoughtprovoking novel about an unnamed city where all people start losing their sight, taking readers into the depths of exploration of the best and worst of humanity.
DULCE MARIA CARDOSO (1964–)
We are concluding this brief introduction with a living literary luminary to inspire you to continue your exploration of the world of Portuguese literature.
If you want to be transported historically, moved by the interiority of the human condition, and ushered deeper into the life struggles of an ‘everywoman’, meet Dulce Maria Cardoso. This attorney-turned-award-winning literary genius is considered one of Portugal’s most important contemporary voices. Cardoso has captivated readers everywhere with her poignant and powerful novels, chronicles and short stories.
Born in the Trás-os-Montes region in 1964, Cardoso’s life, the basis of her work, was marked by the tumultuous events of Portugal’s Carnation Revolution and the independence of Angola, where her family had gone to live. One of her most acclaimed books, The Return, offers a searing, intimate portrait of herself and the half a million ‘retornados’ in their struggle to rebuild their lives in Portugal.
Dulce Maria Cardoso has participated in several prestigious international festivals. Her work has been translated into numerous languages, studied in universities worldwide, and has been the subject of several academic theses. It has also been adapted to cinema, theatre and television, and has earned her a slew of prestigious awards, including the European Union Prize for Literature.
SUGGESTED READING: The Return and Violeta Among the Stars, a single sentence powerful portrait of a woman grappling with her identity, regrets, and the weight of her past.
TAKE SIX: SIX PORTUGUESE WOMEN WRITERS
For those of you seeking a superb way to discover some of the most captivating Portuguese female literary talents, the Take Six anthology offers fresh perspectives through evocative storytelling. This compilation celebrates the short fiction of six remarkable Portuguese women writers – Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen, Agustina Bessa-Luís, Maria Judite de Carvalho, Hélia Correia, Teolinda Gersão and Lídia Jorge. Although their styles and subject matter vary widely, these authors share a gift for taking the mundane details of everyday life and infusing them with a sense of mystery, humour and poignancy.
Marinated sea bass, citrus fruits and coriander
WE ARE PROUD AND DELIGHTED THAT CHEF VITOR SOBRAL SHARES A SUMMER-TIME FRESH DISH WITH READERS OF ALGARVE PLUS. IT IS SPARKLING WITH FLAVOURS, EASY TO PREPARE, AND A TRUE TREAT
SERVES 10 FROM START TO FINISH 20 MINUTES
INGREDIENTS
2 medium sea bass
chilli powder, to taste
1 tbsp coriander leaf
sundried tomatoes in olive oil, as much as you like
20 blueberries
1 grapefruit
1 lemon
lemon juice
fleur de sel, to taste
100ml extra virgin olive oil
METHOD
1 Cut the grapefruit and lemon into wedges and then into cubes, reserving the juice.
2 Cut the sea bass into fillets and then into cubes. Leave to marinate in the citrus juice for five to ten minutes.
3 When serving, add the sundried tomatoes, blueberries, grapefruit and lemon slices and fleur de sel.
4 Add the olive oil and chilli powder and mix all the ingredients together. Finally, sprinkle with coriander.
about the chef
Chef, teacher and consultant Vítor Sobral is one of the great references and authorities of Portuguese gastronomy.
A chef for some 37 years, he currently manages Lota da Esquina, in Cascais; Tasca da Esquina, Taberna da Esquina, four bakeries – Pão da Esquina – all in Lisbon; and two Tasca da Esquina restaurants in São Paulo, Brazil. He is also an author and coauthor of more than 20 books. Awarded with numerous prizes, the title of Commander of the Order of Infante D. Henrique stands out, given in 2006 by the then President of the Portuguese Republic, Jorge Sampaio, for his performance and defence of national flavours. He was also the recipient of the Mais Alentejo prize for his gastronomic excellence, while in Brazil he received the Diploma de Gratitude from the City Council of São Paulo for services rendered to the community.
CELEBRATIONS
PORTUGAL KNOWS HOW TO DO WEATHER AND WEDDING VENUES. FROM CLIFF TOP LOCATIONS AND BEACHFRONT VISTAS TO RUSTIC FARMHOUSES AND SOPHISTICATED VILLAS, THERE’S SOMETHING TO SUIT EVERY WEDDING STYLE. WE’VE ROUNDED UP SOME OF THE BEST VENUES IN THE SOUTH, WITH A COUPLE OF CORKERS FURTHER NORTH THROWN IN FOR GOOD MEASURE
Words: SALLY DIXON
BEACHFRONT BLISS
Pine Cliffs Located in Albufeira, Pine Cliffs is known for its stunning location with breathtaking views over the Atlantic Ocean and a beautiful beach. The resort features a variety of wedding locations, from cliff-top terraces under pine trees and elegant indoor spaces to beautifully landscaped gardens and a more relaxed beach club setting. A truly romantic location for a memorable wedding surrounded by natural beauty. pinecliffs.com/en/
São Rafael Atlântico
A five-star hotel on the edge of Albufeira that exudes modern luxury while embracing the natural surroundings. Its oceanfront location overlooking São Rafael beach makes it the perfect spot for a romantic ceremony with the sound of the waves rolling in the background. nauhotels.com/ en/nau-sao-rafael-atlantico
Tivoli Carvoeiro Algarve Resort Another five-star gem with breathtaking views of the Portuguese coastline and turquoise ocean. Expect to be spoilt
for choice when it comes to wedding ceremony and reception spaces, including a rooftop terrace Sky Bar, an indoor bar with floor-toceiling ocean view windows, ballrooms and function rooms, and landscaped gardens. tivolihotels.com/en/tivolicarvoeiro
Vila Vita Parc Resort & Spa
A luxurious five-star resort in Porches with beautiful gardens and beachfront settings. Elegant ballrooms and indoor venues, including a two-Michelin star restaurant overlooking the ocean. There’s even direct beach access for a romantic alfresco wedding. vilavitaparc.com/en
Vidamar Resort Hotel Guia
Located along the beautiful Salgados Beach close to Albufeira, the surrounding natural landscape, including the Salgados Lagoon and nature reserve, provide a serene and picturesque backdrop for weddings at this five-star resort. Gorgeous gardens with seemingly endless palm trees add to the tropical vibe. algarve.vidamarresorts.com/
Left: The lavish setting of the famous Pousada Palácio de Estoi; below: Pine Cliffs, always a favourite. This page: Wide open spaces and stunning surroundings at Morgado do Quintão
COUNTRYSIDE CHARM
Quinta dos Vales An
established winery offering a unique setting amidst rolling hills and vineyards close to Portimão and Lagoa. The perfect wedding venue for wine lovers, couples even have the opportunity to create a barrel of their own wine to mark their special day. The panoramic covered terrace and tasting room can accommodate up to 120 seated guests, with views of the vineyard hills. Plus, up to 100 guests can stay onsite. quintadosvales.pt/en/
Quinta do Torneiro A historical manor house in Lisbon located only 15 minutes from the beach. Perfect for those who want all the drama of a beach wedding but with a charming country gardenstyle reception. Steeped in 300 years of history and once owned by aristocracy, the Portuguese tiles in all the rooms are a must-see alone. Exuding classical elegance,
the venue even has its own stunning chapel. my-destination-weddingportugal.com
L’AND
Vineyards Resort
If rustic charm isn’t quite your thing, then check out the modern clean lines of this stunning Relais & Chateaux retreat in the heart of the Alentejo. Modern architecture blends seamlessly with the beauty of Portuguese nature and their onsite vineyards. A match made in heaven for interior design and architecture aficionados. l-and.com
Solar do Paço An absolutely stunning, restored 14th-century manor house in Algoz. Once home to the Marquis of Sarria, Fernando Ruiz de Castro, brother of Inês de Castro. The palace and its surrounding buildings provide showstopping spaces for a truly memorable wedding location steeped in history. en.solarpacoalgarve.com
Morgado do Quintão Fancy getting hitched in a historic fourth generation vineyard? Imagine long tables set amongst century-old vines and far-reaching views of the Algarvian countryside for a wedding with a touch of rustic elegance. Get married under the 2,000-year-old olive tree or inside the old olive mill, then dance the night away under the stars. morgadodoquintao.pt
Figs on the Funcho If you want a secluded and intimate location then Figs on the Funcho is it. You can’t get much more immersed in nature than at The River House on the banks of the River Funcho. Set in the hills above São Bartolomeu de Messines, the property is surrounded by fig and carob trees with pathways that wind down to the river. Figs on the Funcho can sleep up to 25 guests and accommodate 80 guests for a uniquely rustic wedding celebration. figsonthefuncho.com
Left: Vila Monte, for groups large and small; below left: Casa Monte Cristo; right: Pousada Convento Tavira. Opposite page: Valverde Sintra Palácio de Seteais
VILLAS/PRIVATE ESTATES
Os Agostos An Algarve favourite, nestled between the coast and the hills close to the town of Santa Bárbara de Nexe. With several different options for venue rooms, including an old olive press house and unique stables, it’s clear why this estate is a popular wedding location. A delightful blend of traditional charm and modern elegance. osagostos.com
Casa Monte Cristo A collection of private villas and apartments, nestled on the hillside between Lagos and Praia da luz, Casa Monte
Cristo is known for its beautiful gardens and panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and coastline, teamed with elegant facilities and a serene setting. There’s also room to accommodate up to 78 guests on site for the ultimate private wedding. casamontecristocollection.
com
Vila Monte A charming villa set in lush gardens not far from Moncarapacho. With enchanting spaces, it’s perfect for a private wedding set among the beautiful grounds. vilamonte.octanthotels. com/en/
HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL VENUES
Pousada Palácio de Estoi
If it’s wow factor you’re after then consider it found. Part of the select group of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, Palácio de Estoi is a restored 18th-century Rococo palace featuring beautiful architecture and lush Frenchstyle gardens. Originally
owned by the Viscount of Estoi, its striking dusky pink façade makes for unique and memorable wedding photos. slh.com/hotels/pousadapalacio-de-estoi
Pousada Convento Tavira
The restored 16th century Convento de Nossa Senhora da Graça da Ordem de Santo Agostinho (try saying that after a couple of glasses of Champagne!) is now home to
HOTEL HOTSPOTS
Tivoli Marina Vilamoura Renowned for its prime marina location in Vilamoura, this five-star hotel offers easy access to both the marina and the beach. Get married with your feet in the sand at
Purobeach Beachfront or with the ocean as your backdrop at the Ocean Lounge terrace. Reception dinners can be held in one of the many onsite restaurants or lakeside, with a 400-capacity ballroom for a serious after party! tivolihotels.com/en/tivolimarina-vilamoura
Quinta Bonita A boutique country house hotel offering exclusive use of its 8-bedroom house and beautiful gardens for an alfresco wedding. Also situated between Lagos and Praia da Luz, Quinta Bonita is set in 10,000sqm of wedding-photo-worthy gardens, including a rose garden, sentinel palms, fruit trees, cobbled pathways, terracing, ponds and fountains. quintabonitaalgarve.com
Monte do Serrinho
Close to the historic village of Alte in São Bartolomeu de Messines, you’ll find the hidden treasure that is the traditional Portuguese quinta, Monte do Serrinho. Say ‘I do’ among age old
olive trees, carob trees and fragrant mediterranean flowers in a country house setting that can cater to up to 200 guests. montedoserrinho.com
Quinta do Muro Estate
Over in Vila Nova de Cacela is the modernist south-facing private villa of Quinta do Muro, nestled in 13 hectares of natural paradise that is the Ria Formosa. Comprising of three buildings and incredible gardens including olive and almond trees, a fruit orchard, a lavender field, an English garden, and a kitchen garden this stunning property is a hidden oceanfront gem. quintadomuro.com
a Pousada hotel. Celebrate your special day in the once-sacred space of this former convent, with its distinct yellow exterior and stunning internal courtyard. pousadas.pt/ uk/hotel/pousada-tavira
Valverde Sintra Palácio de Seteais If you want a jaw-dropping venue for your big day then Seteais Palace is a must-see.
Set in an 18th-century neoclassical palace in Sintra and surrounded by stunning gardens and views, this is a total fairytale venue. With its Marie Antoinette-style interiors and UNESCO World Heritage Site location you’ll feel like you’ve stepped right into a period drama. valverdepalacioseteais. com/en/
SIENNA
The story of Lisbon-based Sienna dates back to two seamstress grandmothers who imparted their skill and knowledge to their granddaughter. They believe in the uniqueness of a small production and pieces that not only last but stand out. And who doesn’t want to stand out in this stunning rose dress? siennainspo.com
NAZ
This design house is eager to deliver fashion made fairly by respecting both people and natural resources. They get big ticks for being B-corp certified, being transparent about their supply chain and producing products with surplus fabrics. Their motto is “it’s never just a piece of clothing” and this trendy linen jumpsuit is no exception – made from 100% linen it’s a great option for slow mornings spent lounging in the garden or beach walks. naz.pt
MORNING, NOON AND NIGHT
WE’VE CURATED SOME SUMMER WARDROBE ESSENTIALS FOR MORNING, NOON AND NIGHT. NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO EXPLORE FRESH TRENDS AND TIMELESS PORTUGUESE BRANDS
Words: PIPPA ROSE
ZILIAN
Zilian is a renowned footwear brand designed and made in Portugal, which covers every style option and includes flats, mid-heel or high heels. These medium-heeled party sandals are made from suede and leather and are the perfect complement to the little black dress... or a favourite pair of jeans. zilian.com
MARTINE LOVE
Martine Love is a special clothing brand that prides itself on vintage meets modern designs. Marta the owner loves to handembroider her garments using traditional techniques, making her pieces unique and elegant. Their exclusive line of sustainable clothing made from linen and GOTScertified organic cotton are for those looking to break away from fast fashion trends. As far as little black dresses go – this is one for all ages. The collection is also stocked at Pine Cliffs Resort. martinelove.com
OINOTNA H A NDMADESTORY
Founded by Sara and Anna Mateus, Antonio is a tribute to their father. As the name suggests all their bags are carefully handcrafted using vegetable tanned leather and nickel-free accessories. This quirky yet sophisticated waist bag is the perfect addition to any evening outfit. antonio-handmadestory.com
+351 New to Quinta Shopping, +351 is a great option for casual sustainablymade Portuguese clothing. Their unisex collection is inspired by the Atlantic ocean and perfect Algarvian attire for trips to the beach or nipping to your favourite coffee shop for a pastel de nata and bica. The company name, like you didn’t guess, comes from the Portuguese dialing code plus351.pt
MUSTIQUE
Mustique, another great Portuguese fashion label, was founded by childhood friends Vera Caldeira and Pedro Ferraz. This is a fun brand with a focus on style and colour. We particularly like their ‘his and hers’ red sun swimwear! mustiqueworld.com
FUTAH is a brand that is well known in Portugal for its 100% cotton, fast-drying, colourful beach towels. Their products are inspired and designed for the beach so what better place to enjoy their accessories than the holy grail of Portuguese beaches; the Algarve. Futah Ponchos are absorbent and resistant, perfect for hot days or cool nights. futah.world/en/
HGIL T Y EARSAWAY
You don’t need to go to the gym to justify wearing a sportylooking two-piece. This Portuguese activewear brand is owned by two young sisters who have a focus on sustainable production and long-lasting garments. This gorgeous steel blue co-ord is made from regenerated nylon and is ideal for morning dog walks, meeting up with friends or indeed something sporty. lyasportswear.com
DAVID YARROW
David Yarrow, “Don’t Worry Darling”, 2023
AUSTA, THE HUGELY SUCCESSFUL FARM-TO-TABLE RESTAURANT, SPECIALITY COFFEE SHOP AND LOCAL WINE BAR IN ALMANCIL, GOES FROM STRENGTH TO STRENGTH WITH ITS ALWAYS ADVENTUROUS MENU, AND ITS INNOVATIVE SENSE OF STYLE. WE ASKED CO-FOUNDER EMMA CAMPUS, WHO’S NEVER WORKED IN A RESTAURANT BEFORE, BUT IS RUNNING ONE NOW, HOW THE DAY PANS OUT
A life in the day of...
7:00am: Morning calm
I wake up at 7:00am, a bit earlier than is necessary, to embrace a few moments of calm. My cat joins me outside and I attempt to regulate my mindset for the day, gather my thoughts and mentally map out the tasks ahead knowing that every day is unpredictable when running a restaurant! 8:am: Bakery and market run
I head out the door, stopping at Essencia bakery in Loulé to collect fresh sourdough. A quick chat with José is always a highlight, and we discuss the weather and the ins and outs of running a small business, offering words of encouragement where we can to keep up the good vibes! Meanwhile, David is off to our ‘leiteria’ in São Brás de Alportel to pick up creamy, local goat’s milk, but he gets a call
Opposite page: Emma and David, smiling despite the pressures. This page: It’s all in a day’s work, from agreeing the menu to gathering fresh vegetables to preparing the dishes to setting the tables
from the girls at austa to say our dishwasher has shut down. He multi-tasks and calls the engineers on his way!
9:00am: Restaurant arrival and setup
The team are busy setting up when we arrive to the smell of freshly-baked cookies and granola ready for breakfast service. I down a cup of freshly-roasted Bean 17 coffee before joining the girls in managing the final touches, cutting fresh flowers from our garden, checking on the vegetable patch and watering the plants, while David checks over the dishwasher. Suddenly, our greengrocer calls to say a vegetable delivery will be late, so we scramble to adjust the menu and think of substitute ingredients that we can integrate from the garden. The day has definitely begun!
9.30am: Morning hustle
It starts as the first guests arrive. I greet and seat them, while the team makes coffee and waits tables. David handles the washing up while waiting for the dishwasher repairman, and manages accounting and logistics on his laptop during quiet moments. We both catch up on emails, sort schedules, and respond to reservations. The morning is a balancing act of customer service with constant communication to keep everything running smoothly…
10:00am: Emergency response
Just as the day settles into a rhythm, chaos erupts across the street. Barbecue embers left smoldering next to a garage send smoke pouring into the restaurant’s garden. We rush over with fire extinguishers while the team
moves our guests inside for safety. David controls the fire with hydrants until the fire department arrives. With the situation sorted, we return to the restaurant, adrenaline pumping, grateful it didn’t spread to our building.
I then leave to meet journalists from Lisbon visiting one of our local producers. We incorporate producer visits to showcase our farm-to-table philosophy. Today, we visit Senhor Virgilio, an organic fruit grower near Olhão. He guides us through his processes, and we taste delicious papayas and bananas. Later, the journalists join us for dinner to see how we incorporate Virgilio’s ingredients into our dishes.
1:00pm: Back in the restaurant
We use this time in the middle of the day to strategise for the afternoon and talk about the bigger picture too for some events that we are hosting in the coming weeks. We need to organise accommodation for a chef who will be doing a four-hands dinner at the restaurant and we brainstorm ways to create fun activities for our community, including a ceramics workshop with our local potters. We are interrupted as a fish delivery for the evening arrives, super fresh oysters and a glistening red porgy fish, a beauty!
2:00pm: Midday crisis
During the busy lunch service a customer suddenly faints at a table and we learn they recently underwent a medical procedure and hadn’t eaten enough. We call an ambulance and provide water and a cool place to rest. Their partner’s calm demeanour helps everyone stay cool, and they soon regain consciousness. This incident reminds us of the unpredictability of each day and the importance of being prepared!
Meanwhile, David helps one of our natural wine producers set up a tasting stand in the garden. The producer, from the Vinho Verde region, offers some of the juiciest Pet Nat in the country. As guests arrive for lunch on the terrace, they chat and sample his new harvests. This reflects one of the main reasons we started austa: to act as a gateway for discovery and lead visitors to different parts of the region and country.
3:00pm: Handover to dinner team
The dinner team arrives. We have a brief handover meeting and get to work on completing our checklist for the night. I sit with our Head Chef to update the evening’s menu – it changes daily based on our fresh produce and we talk about
feedback from the previous night’s dishes, working on ideas to keep our offerings exciting. Our creativity is constantly tested as we adapt to the day’s unexpected turns, but it’s what makes our job fun and keeps us learning and feeling challenged.
4:00pm: Content creation
Amidst the kitchen’s busy dinner preparations, I carve out time to create Instagram content. I capture fresh ingredients, newly plated dishes, and the changing restaurant ambiance. This task is crucial for our marketing, as we lack a large advertising budget. Social media helps us build relevance and a constant connection with our growing local and global community 5:00pm: Final touches
I finalise the table plan while the girls start to prepare the dining room or garden for dinner. If we can, we try to make time for moments of training with some new team members in the afternoon, too, going over the moments of service, and testing their knowledge of what they are learning on the go.
It’s important to us that we constantly repeat things, so that our team can be consistent in their service and embody the austa brand and build loyalty with those who visit us.
6:00pm: A moment of calm
We sit down as a team for our staff meal in our vegetable garden before service, a feast of fruit and veggies that are abundant in the garden so nothing goes to waste. We conduct a full team briefing, discussing guest numbers for the night, dietary restrictions, and specials. The Chef introduces new dishes, too. This moment of preparation is key to ground our team back to the product, even when the day has been full of surprises.
7:00pm: Dinner service begins Candles lit and music on, the first guests arrive. We offer them cocktails and a garden walk before our team starts to work their magic in making austa feel like a cosy dinner party. With guests from all walks of life, we adapt our social skills to connect with diverse tastes and personalities. I coordinate with the kitchen to ensure an organised service, while David pours wine. It’s a choreographed dance where we try to go with the flow without putting a foot wrong!
An unexpected wind picks up at 9pm, some tables request to move inside, so we adjust seating plans and kitchen communications to ensure the service stays smooth (which is not always!).
11:00pm: Closing time
Sometime after 11pm we say goodbye to the last guests and begin our closing procedures (usually to the soundtrack of some Reggae to gift everyone a last boost!). Despite the day’s challenges, the team works together, ensuring everything is in order before heading home. We gather with a glass of anything leftover from service before parting ways into the night!
12:30am: Home and decompress
At home, and a minute to decompress before bed. If we’re not too exhausted, we share a quiet conversation about the day’s events, the lows first, so we can try to end with the highs. Some nights are easier to decompress than others as our minds whir with adrenaline and thoughts from the evening service, but sooner or later, we drift off to sleep, wrapping up another fulfilling day filled with its ups and downs, ready to face whatever tomorrow brings together.
MY TOP TEN
HERE ’ S WHERE YOU GET TO MEET SOMEONE NEW, AND HEAR THEIR VIEWS ON A SUBJECT CLOSE TO THEIR HEART. AND YOU MIGHT JUST PICK UP IDEAS THAT COULD MAKE A DIFFERENCE TO YOUR LIFESTYLE
I’M EDOARDO VINCENTI, a 44-yearold forest engineer with international experience in tree seeds, seed testing and agroforestry. In the past 20 years, I have worked, studied, researched and made long-term friends in Italy, Portugal, Germany, Greece, Morocco, the Netherlands and England.
I’m Italian by birth, but destiny brought me to Portugal in 2019 and here is where I feel at home.
My life experiences have made me develop bizarre skills: I can identify about 200 plant species just by looking at the seeds, I can speak backwards, and I am a master in wild foraging.
What about flaws? I’m very opinionated; I am an annoyingly picky eater. I don’t drink white wine. But then nobody’s perfect.
I’ve always worked with trees, seeds and plants: seed testing, crop inspection, pesticides efficacy, food testing, seed certification schemes, plant pathology and agroforestry projects, including olive oil production, carob farms, poplar plantations, traditional orchards, truffle mushroom cultivation.
I offer land/orchard assessments or surveys, general landscape/garden advice, project management, costings, sourcing, maintenance plans, training, and more – I aim to help you save money in the long run. After all, having a qualified and experienced professional working on your land on a temporary and flexible contract is the most efficient way to look after yourself and the environment around you and indirectly increase the value of your property.
I’d love to have a look at your land.
01 Get a water metre. Essential for saving water.
02 Get a soil moisture metre. Learn how to use it. Essential for healthy plants.
03 Create a pond (a mini pond works, too). Essential to attract wildlife.
04 Leave some dead/dying wood. Essential for a healthy soil.
05 Use only decorative stones and rocks from local quarries. Essential to support local businesses.
06 Use native plants grown from locally sourced seeds. Essential to stop using chemicals in your garden.
07 Buy your own tools (hoe, spade, rake, hedge trimmer, etc.). Your tools are the only tools that should be used in your land. Essential to keep alien diseases out.
08 Plant a mixed native hedge. Essential to attract pollinators.
09 The Algarvian farming culture is based on these five fruit trees: olive, almond, carob, loquat and fig. Have at least one in your garden. Essential to keep local traditions alive.
10 If you miss the green grass of home, go to a local golf course or listen to Tom Jones. Essential to keep homesickness at bay.
Nature’s way
BIODIVERSITY IS A BUZZ WORD IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE TODAY, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO THE IMPORTANCE OF SAFEGUARDING THE INSECTS AND WILDLIFE THAT MAKE THEIR HOMES IN OUR GARDENS. PROTECT THEM, AND WE PROTECT THE FUTURE
Words: BURFORD HURRY
IN 2019, a friend and I attended the Spring Conference in Evora, which was organised by the Mediterranean Garden Association of Portugal. The theme was ‘Bringing the Mediterranean Landscape into your Garden’. It was well attended and there were international garden personalities such as Olivier and Carla Filippi and Helen and James Basson participating. However, they were not just gardening luminaries and landscapers; they were mediterranean gardening specialists, passionate about waterwise mediterranean plants. The Fillipis have a nursery in France that specialises in plants from Mediterranean regions of the world, and in particular those that are native to Mediterranean France and the rest of Europe. The Bassons are strong advocates of dry gardens, working with local materials and raising awareness of locally sourced plants. Their gardens keep maintenance to a minimum.
Apart from the organised visits and listening to and enjoying the talks, I got to chat privately with James Basson, and during our conversations the name of
Edward Wilson came up. James mentioned he was busy reading Half Earth, a book written by Wilson about how to prevent our world becoming a barren wasteland and taking us with it. Wilson felt: “The ongoing mass extinction of the natural world ranks with pandemics, world wars, and climate change as among the greatest threats that humanity has imposed upon itself. Biodiversity loss was ranked as the third most severe threat humanity will face in the next ten years in the World Economic Forum’s Global Risks Report 2022. To lose so much of Earth’s biodiversity is to both destroy our living heritage, and to risk the stability of the planet today and for all future generations.”
We have been doing our best, unwittingly or intentionally, to kill off animal, insect and plant species for generations. Early extinction occurred for the dodo, a large flightless bird in Mauritius, and we probably wouldn’t even have been aware that this had happened if it hadn’t been ironically immortalised by Lewis Carroll in his book Alice in Wonderland, and then found her way into the expression ‘dead as a dodo’. The next lesserknown extinction was the quagga, which was hunted to extermination in the late 19th century in the Western Cape. Today, we are acknowledging every year the extinction of numerous insects, plants, birds and all sorts of other animals. Why should this alarm us? We are talking about species that have evolved over millions of years in amazing and intricate relationships with us as well as animals and plants in the natural world. Admit it or not, we are part of the web of life and we depend on it for our food and our wellbeing. The extinction of plants and other animals will have a direct bearing on our lives.
Over to us
Well, that sounds pretty disastrous, especially as we are not in overall control of this scenario. What, in the meantime, can we gardeners do about it? I believe we could and should do a lot. Let’s begin by regarding our gardens as being habitats and part of the natural world and take on the role of protectors. Doing that will help to decrease the damage we are doing to our natural environment.
However, first of all we have to make a conscious decision on how we will garden. Let’s face it, a garden is a controlled space and so by definition we gardeners are control people. If we are
Biodiversity loss was ranked as the third most severe threat humanity will face in the next 10 years in the World Economic Forum’s Global Risks Report 2022.
captains of industry or other powerful corporate beings or partners of people of power, we want to be completely in control in our homes and in our gardens. What we have to decide on is whether we are sufficiently motivated to do something to protect our home and ourselves now and for future generations, and once that has been decided how much control we want to exert over our garden. Too much interference will result in hard landscaping.
What is meant by hard landscaping?
Basically, by regarding our patch as a drawing board onto which we impose our idea of a garden with little or no regard as to soil, climate, natural life or position. Wrong soil? We import it. Weeds? Kill them with herbicides. No rain? We irrigate. Wrong temperature? We create wind breaks or glass houses. Bugs? We use insecticides. Fungus? We use fungicides. Snails? Snail bait. It’s easy when you know how. It’s a way of gardening we have become all too familiar with. In addition to these aspects of control, it’s a gardening world which has somehow become competitive and commercial. It’s important for us to have the best roses, the most interesting plants, the biggest lawns, the most disease-and-fungus-free patch in the neighbourhood. All this has to be done today and must remain pristine. This means we have to resort to buying
artificial products which have been designed to make and keep our plants perfect and gardens beautiful.
James Basson suggests that we: “soften the hard landscapes that exist everywhere in urban environments and instead work with the existing natural world, encouraging and nurturing it into a garden space that can be enjoyed by all”, and I might add that should include the animals, birds and insects that live around us. These creatures are all responsible for our survival in some way or another.
How can we do this?
It’s not that difficult. Already many gardeners in the Algarve are embracing the idea of gardens as habitats. They are learning to rein in their instincts to react by reflex to a challenge in the garden by not immediately buying or getting a product which will kill weeds or bugs, control fungi. Instead, they are asking themselves what they are doing wrong. A shaded potted kalanchoe with scale? Should it be in a sunnier position?
Or taking a step back and letting nature take its course. One year the capers in my garden were stripped naked of their leaves by caterpillars I held my breath and I did nothing. The plants didn’t die. In fact, the following year I had the best capers ever. Greenfly on the shoots of the pomegranate (my
Previous pages: Insect biodiversity on a flower: a butterfly, a bee Anthophila in flight and a shield bug Carpocoris fuscispinus. Opposite page, top left clockwise: wavyleaf mullein (Verbascum sinuatum); bug hotel surrounded by wild flowers; snail on green moss; caper buds and flowers
private dancer) are left and each year there are fewer as their natural predators increase.
Wrong soil? Choose native plants that like and thrive in the existing soil and in our weather or find Mediterranean cousins who come from other parts of the world such as California, Western Cape, Chile and Western Australia who do. There is a wonderful selection.
Bugs? Don’t be too alarmed by them. Many are very useful in the garden. Provide the right kind of conditions for useful natural predators for those that are damaging your plants. Take simple methods to control insects which are attacking your plants. Leaf miners in orange trees? Snip off the infected shoots and burn them.
Don’t be too tidy
It is easy for me but perhaps not quite so easy for some of us. Let fallen leaves on soil lie. The leaf mulch under my fiddlewood gets richer by the years. Don’t disturb the undergrowth of shrubs too much or trim shrubs and trees too often. I have a pile of old roof tiles which is home to one of the snakes in the garden. A heap of old logs and branches near your compost heap will provide a haven for all kinds of bees and wasps.
Birds are an asset in a garden, so encourage them. Blackbirds (Turdus merula) eat insects as do Great tits (Parus major). One year, I found a goldfinch nest with three eggs at the base of a Taro vine (Epipremnum pinnatum) in pot near my spring. What did I do? I banned the cat and didn’t water the area for three weeks. It may seem silly but I felt privileged to have the bird nesting in my garden.
Other gardeners have other bird strategies. Rinske has a simple wooden platform below the eves of the roof under a nest of house martins to catch their droppings – a wise and wonderful move as the nest is directly above the sitting room door. Jan has swallows nesting above her front door but for her that is not a problem. Ralph has European bee-eaters nesting in a rocky face on his property – he has stopped the work nearby.
If it’s possible leave a patch of the garden wild and encourage ‘weeds’ such as Verbascum (Verbascum sinuatum), valerian (Centranthus ruber) and even nettles (Urtica dioica). You will have a garden full of butterflies. If you have ever seen the cloud of bees around the yellow verbascum flowering in June alongside the road you will understand why you should have her in your garden.
Let’s see how many insects, birds, chameleons, snakes, frogs and other animals we can encourage to live in our gardens and roll back any talk of extinction in our patch and then talk about it to the neighbours. Let’s have a different sort of competition in our gardens and boast about our birds, our butterflies, our frogs. Let’s be proud of our garden habitats!
HALF-EARTH Our Planet’s Fight for Life by
Edward O Wilson
Published by Liveright
t. +351 917 203 850 . design@suzisteinhofel.com . www.designworks.com.pt
Rucking good
THINK YOU KNOW IT ALL? HERE’S ONE FITNESS TREND YOU ACTUALLY MAY NOT HAVE HEARD OF. WE DIVE DEEP INTO THE WORLD OF RUCKING.
Words: SALLY DIXON
HANDS UP if you’ve never heard of rucking. I’m not even going to try and insert any jokes here because they could get offensive. Forty-seven-years-old and I’ve only just been introduced to the term ‘rucking’. It’s not as bad as it sounds. Being the nerdy health and wellness geek that I am, last month I attended the Health Optimisation Summit in London, where I discovered the word rucking. I, along with many other people in the audience, did a double take when presented with what was described as a great way of staying fit. If, like me, you’ve got no idea what I’m going on about, I’m here to give you a rucking good rundown.
In layman’s terms, it’s walking while carrying a weight in a rucksack, also known as ruck marching, but rucking sounds way more fun. The name originates from a military and special forces background, where soldiers carry heavy loads as part of their training and missions. It’s not a necessity to carry the 23kg weighted bags synonymous with army training though, thank goodness!
Strength and endurance – the added weight challenges the muscles, particularly in the legs, core, and back, enhancing overall strength and endurance.
Weight management – the combination of cardiovascular exercise and strength training can help burn calories and promote weight loss.
Mental strength – rucking requires perseverance and mental strength, especially when carrying heavier weights over longer distances.
Versatility – it can be easily modified to suit different fitness levels and goals by adjusting the weight, distance, and speed.
If you’re serious about giving rucking a go, then you’re going to need some kit. Obviously, key to the rucking kit is a ruck sack, and a good sturdy one at that. Comfortable shoulder straps and padding are important, along with a waist belt to distribute the weight and ensure your rucksack isn’t bouncing up and down as you walk. Next, you’ll need some weights to put in said rucksack.
Bear in mind that you don’t want to be chucking any old dumbbell in there, odd shape weights are not going to feel that comfortable, digging into your back 20 minutes into your rucking expedition. A ‘weight’ could even be a heavy book or a wrapped brick for example.
You’ll want to put a towel in your rucksack, too, so that the weight stays towards the top of the bag and doesn’t pull on your lower back. You can get specialist rucking weights that are flat and fit into purposefully-designed rucksacks more neatly. Or, better still, you can invest in a rucking vest. Aside from looking like you’re joining a SWAT team, rucking vests are a more comfortable way to spread the weight while getting the same cardiovascular and strength benefits.
If you’re already an avid walker, then rucking could be a great way to step up your fitness game and improve your physical performance. Heck, if you hike regularly with a rucksack of snacks and water (or even a papoosed toddler) then you’re already a rucker!
The best thing is that rucking can be tailored to fit individual fitness levels. Even step ups with a weighted vest can be beneficial in older age. A 2019 study followed a group of women aged 65 to 74 years old on a six-week training program of step ups while wearing a weighted vest. The weighted training provided functional benefit along with improved leg strength and power due to the resistance element of the weights.
Top Tips for Rucking Success
1
Start light – Even if you’re used to lifting weights in the gym already, it’s not the same when you can’t put them down and stop for a break. Start light (say 2 or 3kg) and see how you get on walking for 20 minutes with weight in your rucksack. You can then start to build every couple of weeks or so with slightly heavier weights.
2
Posture perfect – Whether you’re using a rucksack or a vest, good form is essential so as not to stress the lower back. Maintain an upright posture and try not to hunch your shoulders up to your ears.
3
Dress for success – Wearing a rucksack or vest can get sweaty. Make sure you’re wearing breathable, comfortable clothing and appropriate, supportive footwear for long distance walking/hiking.
4
Pace yourself – Start with a slower pace and then after a few sessions, once you get used to walking with weights, challenge yourself by upping the pace.
5
Get together – Join a group or start your own group of ruckers! It’s a great way to enjoy the outdoors and improve your mood by rucking with others.
As Dr Peter Attia says in his book, Outlive: The Science & Art of Longevity, “Carrying is our superpower as a species”. He regularly rucks every week, uphill and downhill with a 50 to 60-pound ruck sack, with the goal being to be able to carry a third to a quarter of your body weight. As always, consult with a fitness professional before starting any new exercise program, especially if you have any underlying health conditions. Happy rucking!
The right kit will have been designed to give you support and comfort in the right places
Protect those eyes!
Wearing sunglasses during the summer months and throughout the year is not just a fashion statement, it is an important routine to protect the health of your eyes.
All decent sunglasses offer UV protection, but what is meant by polarised lenses?
When we are outside, direct sun rays aren’t the only sources of light we encounter. Sunlight often bounces off other surfaces, like car windows, water and shiny table tops. When sunlight becomes concentrated and is hitting the eye directly, it reduces the contrast we see and causes our eyes to experience stress and fatigue.
Polarised lenses work by blocking out this concentrated light.
Retro, Aviator-style, Oversized or Children’s - a pair of high-quality sunglasses can protect and be very stylish at the same time.
HOMES: Rua das Lojas, Rua 5 de Outubro nº 68 .
Fa SH iO n and accESSOR i ES: Rua José Fernandes Guerreiro, nº39
OPE n : Monday - Friday 10.00-13.00; 15.00-18.00; Saturday: 10.00-14.00
T: +351 964 222 612 in STa : martina.loule / martina-loule.com
GOING WILD
WITH ENVIRONMENTALISTS AND NATURALISTS
IN MIND, WE HAVE LISTED FOUR ACTIVE AND INFORMATIVE GROUPS THAT REALLY ARE WORTH CHECKING OUT. JOIN THEM ON THEIR FACEBOOK PAGES WHERE THEY ARE READY TO ENLIGHTEN AND INSTRUCT AS THEY HONE IN ON THE NATURAL WORLD OF PORTUGAL
Words: CAROLYN KAIN
WILDLIFE IN Portugal, Algarve Wildlife, Birding Portugal, Algarve Bird-Watching:
Accessed free of charge via your PC, tablet or mobile phone, these Facebook offerings are packed with wonderful photographs and videos, edifying information, as well as helpful tips from ‘top contributors’ and enthusiastic members of the public. Each site receives a dozen or more new posts each day from established members; submitting their personal pictures, opinions, knowledge and questions that others might be able to answer.
The up-to-date information members supply is particularly useful for organisations such as SPEA, Sociedade Portuguesa para o Estudo das Aves. A recent example was when a picture of a young Eurasian Stonecurlew appeared. The photographer asked other members of the group if they could identify the bird, unaware that in Portugal it is a highly protected species.
Within hours it was recognised by several of the key contributors, and realising the significance of this sighting, they were able through the group to send a message to the photographer. The bird’s presence and its activities were then reported to SPEA for inclusion in their records. In such cases this enables them to take appropriate action if it is necessary.
The four groups have rules and members must adhere to certain protocols such as protecting the exact location of a rare species and safeguarding animals’ routines, especially when rearing young. For instance, the exact whereabouts of the young Stonecurlew was not disclosed avoiding the probability of it being surrounded by a flock of twitchers!
ists and budding ists!
If you have an enquiring mind here’s some of the natural history that is possible to see, read or learn about. This is what might be gleaned over a typical fortnight:
Entomologists – study of insects. Photographs that identify a Conehead Mantis, a Stag Beetle (Europe’s largest beetle) and a rhino beetle. Comments and a photograph of newly-hatched Egyptian tree locusts (also called Egyptian grasshoppers) hiding amongst a patch of chives in an Algarve garden.
Herpetologists – study of reptiles and amphibians. Photographs of an Iberian worm lizard, an Ocellated lizard, a skink lizard and numerous geckoes. Another photograph incorrectly identified as an iguana. Later, an explanation given that the picture is of an ocellated lizard, known in Portugal as a sardão.
Ophiologists – study of snakes, known in Portugal as ‘cobras’. Video of a grass snake swimming across a natural pool in Alte; photographs and information about the non-venomous ladder snake; photograph of horseshoe whip snakes mating.
Lepidopterist – study of butterflies and moths. Photographs by different contributors identifying three butterflies – the Monarch, Sage Skipper and Spanish Gatekeeper – and the death’shead hawkmoth. Video of a very hungry caterpillar of a swallowtail butterfly.
Marine biologists – study of life beneath the sea. Single photograph taken from a boat showing three Orcas at close
quarters, with Faro in the distance; video of a sea hare in motion.
Ornithologists – study of birds. Series of photographs of adult black-winged stilts protecting their young; single photograph showing a flock of black Ibis taking off – in both of these cases comments queried if the photographers had disturbed the birds. Single photograph taken at sea level of a razorbill; several photographs of golden orioles, known in Portugal as ‘papa figos’. Numerous comments about the secrecy of Golden Orioles and the difficulty of taking photographs.
Two photographs side by side taken by a ‘Top Contributor’ showing the differences between a thekla and a crested lark. Numerous photographs identifying other passerine birds that would be difficult to recognise in flight.
Zoologists – study of wild animals. Video of an Arvicola, (an endangered water vole) drinking from a stream in Salgados. Video of a Common Genet moving its cubs after a storm. Video of an Egyptian mongoose prowling round a terrace at night.
Video of three Pine Martens eating dog biscuits –according to one comment, probably a mother and young as they are usually solitary.
Single photograph of a hedgehog drinking milk. In both of the last two cases comments were critical. Suitable alternatives were given in preference to dog biscuits and milk but most members stated that as a rule wild animals should not be fed by people.
BECOMING A MEMBER
Click onto any of the groups mentioned above for more information about joining. Apart from the daily pleasure of looking at new posts, the groups also give information about talks and walks of special interest. Photographers are especially welcomed and many of the current members give information about their cameras and settings.
ROBERT POOL
FISHING WITH YOUR BEST FRIEND ( Praia dos Beijinhos 2024)
PK: “The theme of fishing does jump right out at the viewer. The actual person fishing and the dog are silhouetted nicely. The sky is wonderful, and the cliff the fisherman is standing on still maintains definition.”
This month’s guest judge of submission from members of the APG was Paul Kulessa, a photographic artist whose journey started in 1972. His passion today is for travel and street photography, and the creation of images that narrate a story
GLYN PARRY
FISHING ON A FOGGY
MORNING (Quarteira 2014)
PK: “I like the mood of this image. The theme is strong and the silhouetting of the subject helps tell the story.”
GONE FISHING
LIGIA GLOVER A FISHERMAN’S WORK IS NEVER DONE (Santa Luzia 2021)
PK: “This is a good storytelling image – the colours in the various containers complement the colours in the boat. The subject is perhaps a little too centred.”
HEIDI BECK
FISHING HOOK (Altura 2024)
PK: “I find this image to be strong on the theme and a great storytelling image in general. The only distraction would be the two people in the background, but with them being so out of focus for effect this is just a very minor distraction.”
DARYL GABIN
PREPARATION (Quarteira 2014)
PK: “This image really hits the ‘fishing’ theme. A minor distraction is the orange container that is slightly out of focus and in front of the subject. I understand that it is part of the scene but if the maker could edit the image and tone it down some it would help.”
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BRUSH UP
I’VE ALWAYS BEEN A BIG FAN OF THE ELECTRIC TOOTHBRUSH. THE ACTION IS MUCH MORE EFFECTIVE THAN MY LAZY, FEATHER-DUSTER-WAVING BRUSHSTROKES AND, CRUCIALLY, THE TIMER FORCES ME TO CONTINUE FOR THE FULL TWO MINUTES THAT DENTISTS SAY ARE ESSENTIAL
Words: CHRIS PARTRIDGE
NOT WISHING to brag, but my last check-up with the dentist went well.
“Do you use an electric toothbrush?” she asked. “It shows.”
But now electric toothbrushes are established, they are going high tech with exotic features like ultrasonic water jets, ultra-violet purification lamps and, of course, Bluetooth linking to an app on your phone.
All this comes with a considerably higher price tag, of course. Are they worth the money? They claim to be more effective, more convenient and add lots of attractive features, but the iron law of technology is the 80/20 rule: you get 80 per cent of the functionality at the 20 per cent price level. So let’s take a look at the range of electric toothbrushes on the market
The primary purpose of any toothbrush is to remove plaque and promote gum health. Electric toothbrushes at all price points offer superior cleaning compared to manual brushes, with more upmarket models also offering features such as oscillating or sonic cleaning actions, pressure sensors and even artificial intelligence to guide brushing habits.
Studies have shown that electric toothbrushes can be more effective at reducing plaque and gingivitis compared to manual toothbrushes. For instance, a study published in the Journal of Clinical Periodontology found that electric toothbrushes reduced plaque by 21 per cent and gingivitis by 11 per cent after three months of use, primarily due to the consistent and thorough motion provided by electric toothbrushes, which is difficult to replicate manually.
High-tech toothbrushes offer a variety of features
designed to enhance the user experience and improve brushing habits, the most important being the timers that ensure users brush for the dentist-recommended two minutes and evenly distribute their brushing time across all areas of the mouth. This can help in developing better brushing habits, especially for children and impatient adults who rush through their oral care routine.
Excessive brushing pressure can damage gums and enamel, so pressure sensors in high-tech toothbrushes alert users when they are brushing too hard, helping to prevent such damage and promoting gentler brushing techniques.
Some advanced toothbrushes connect to smartphones via Bluetooth, offering real-time feedback on brushing habits through dedicated apps. These apps can track brushing patterns, provide reminders, and even offer personalised tips, making oral care more interactive and informative.
High-tech toothbrushes often come with various brushing modes, such as whitening, sensitive, gum care, and deep clean. These modes cater to different dental needs and preferences, allowing for a more customised brushing experience.
Many electric toothbrushes now boast long-lasting batteries and convenient charging options, such as USB charging or charging travel cases, adding to their convenience, especially for frequent travellers.
The added benefits and features of high-tech toothbrushes come at a premium – a really high tech brush with all the bells and whistles can cost over €300. The question then becomes whether these additional costs are justified.
For many users, the initial investment in a high-quality electric toothbrush could potentially lead to savings in dental bills in the long run by preventing cavities, gum disease, and other oral health issues. Moreover, the convenience of built-in timers, pressure sensors, and personalised feedback can significantly enhance the brushing experience (although it will never be exactly a joy) and promote better oral care habits.
High-tech toothbrushes also tap into psychological and lifestyle factors. The novelty and innovation of these devices can motivate people to improve their brushing habits. The interactive features and the data-driven approach to oral care can make brushing more engaging and less of a mundane chore. Additionally, for tech enthusiasts, the satisfaction of using a sophisticated device can add value beyond mere functionality.
Some advanced toothbrushes connect to smartphones via Bluetooth, offering real-time feedback on brushing habits through dedicated apps.
Best electric toothbrushes
ORAL-B PRO 3
Oral-B dominates the electric toothbrush market for good reasons – their products are solid performers at reasonable prices, and replacement brushes are available everywhere. The new Pro 3 is a mid-market model that cleans your teeth properly without any of the frills. Good value at €59.99 from Continente.
PHILIPS SONICARE
DIAMONDCLEAN 9000
Sonicare is the runner-up in the market but it fields a full range of brushes including this highend model featuring a bunch of cleaning modes, including Deep Clean and Gum Health, which alter the intensity and timing to combat specific problems. Not cheap, however.
€176 from notino.pt
Y-BRUSH
This weird toothbrush looks like a boxer’s gum guard on a stick, but its strange shape enables it to clean a whole jawful of teeth at the same time, cutting the process down to just ten seconds using brushes all along the inside. You use it by sort of champing down to sweep the brushes over your teeth.
The need to spread toothpaste all along the device is a bit of a faff and it is not cheap, but if you are really keen to reduce the time you spend on cleaning your teeth it may be worth trying. The battery life is three months.
€79.90 at y-brush.com
SURI SONIC ECO-TOOTHBRUSH
Most electric toothbrushes cannot be recycled and the brush heads go straight to landfill. So the Suri recyclable toothbrush is very welcome. It has a recyclable aluminium handle and the brush heads are made from eco-friendly castor oil and cornstarch. After three months, you can return the brush heads to Suri through the post for recycling.
€85 at trysuri.com
EMILIO ESTEVEZ
The oldest son of actor Martin Sheen, and brother of Charlie Sheen, Emilio Estevez always said when he went into show-business that he preferred to use his original family name rather than trading on his father’s. Emilio was born in New York but moved to California as a child. His first acting roles were in movies like the cult classic Repo Man in 1984 and St Elmo’s Fire in the following year.
At that time he became known as one of the so-called ‘Brat Pack’ of young US movie stars, a club which included Demi Moore – whom he dated for a time – Sean Penn, Rob Lowe and others. He subsequently said that the Brat Pack label was “like Kryptonite for all our careers”.
He has always been interested in making films about social issues. In 2006 he directed Bobby, a movie about the assassination in summer 1968 of Robert F Kennedy, brother of the former President. He has also directed his father in The Way in 2011 and has said that the most important thing his father taught him was that “my job is not more or less important than anyone else’s”. Emilio was briefly married to singer Paula Abdul and also has two children from an earlier relationship.
Where are they now?
THREE MORE PERSONALITIES WHO HIT THE HEADLINES THROUGHOUT THEIR CAREERS AND TWO OF THEM HAVE MOVED ON TO WRITE BESTSELLERS. AND VINYL RECORDS –REMEMBER THEM? THEY ARE BACK IN FASHION ONE HUNDRED YEARS ON
Words: JILL ECKERSLEY
GENE HACKMAN
One of the most versatile actors in the Hollywood of the 20th century, Gene Hackman is now enjoying his retirement after being advised by his doctors to take it easy – at 94! During his six-decade career he has won two Academy Awards and many other honours. Not bad for a man who during his training at Pasadena Playhouse was once voted “Least Likely to Succeed”. It’s worth noting that he shared this particular award with a friend, one Dustin Hoffman.
Gene Hackman was born in California but his family moved house a lot and he joined the US Marines aged 16. He studied journalism and TV production before deciding to become an actor when he was 30. In 1967, Warren Beatty chose him to play Clyde Barrow’s brother and fellow gang-member Buck in the smash hit movie Bonnie and Clyde, a role which gained him a nomination for Best Supporting Actor. By the time he was 40 he was a genuine star, appearing in hit movies like The French Connection in 1971, The Poseidon Adventure in 1972, and Superman in 1978. He is known for approaching any film role with “minimal rehearsal” and says that he trained to be an actor, not a star.
Twice married, he now lives quietly in Santa Fe, New Mexico with his wife Betsy Arakawa, a classical pianist. Since retiring he has written three novels and says that he finds writing both “relaxing and comforting.”
North London-born Emma Bunton was just one of the 400 girls who attended an audition in 1994 when an advert appeared in The Stage looking for singers. Alongside Geri Halliwell, Victoria Adams, Melanie Chisholm and Melanie Brown, Emma became onefifth of the most successful girl group of all time, the Spice Girls. Nicknamed ‘Baby Spice’ because she was the youngest, Emma saw their first single, Wannabe, top the charts not only in Britain but in 34 other countries.
For ten years or so, the Spice Girls were the biggest thing in pop. They toured the world, and by the time the new century opened, all the girls had found other opportunities, including writing children’s books, designing clothes, and appearing on TV and in films. Emma came third in the 2006 season of Strictly Come Dancing on British TV, was part of the judging team for Dancing on Ice and more recently hosted her own show on Heart Radio. There was a brief Spice Girls Reunion at the closing ceremony for the 2012 London Olympics, too.
The Spice Girls’ first single, Wannabe, topped the charts in Britain and 34 other countries.
Emma’s interests outside show-business often involved children’s charities, and in 2014 she became a UNICEF Ambassador, promoting vaccination in developing countries. She also supports the Nordoff-Robbins charity for children with disabilities. She has continued to make music, releasing four solo albums, the most recent in 2019.
Emma is married to singer Jade Jones and has two teenage children. They recently attended Taylor Swift’s sellout London concert. Still based in North London – and a Spurs fan –Emma says: “Our house is always full of music and dancing!”
1920s
VINYL RECORDS
Sometimes, so-called ‘progress’ takes us by surprise. It’s only natural for new inventions to replace the old – cars instead of horses and buggies, electric instead of steam trains, mobiles instead of landlines… and it was the same with recorded music.
From the 1920s to the 1980s, it came in the form of records – at first heavyduty 78 rpm discs, then long-players and 45 rpm ‘singles’. Then the development of tape players and the Sony Walkman meant that cassettes were all the rage… until hi-fi buffs changed to compact discs with their superior sound and lack of jumps and crackles. By the beginning of the new century, music fans were used to digital downloads and streaming services. Vinyl records started to look like antiques. Surprisingly, though, there has been a vinyl revival – and no-one seems to be quite sure why. It does vary in different parts of the world, but between 2016 and 2021 revenues from the sale of vinyl records tripled and in 2023 five and a half million vinyl units were sold.
In the UK it has been suggested that the popularity of ‘indie’ rock music may have had something to do with it, perhaps because records are physically bigger and cover art can be better appreciated. Or there’s always the nostalgia factor. The popularity of albums by much-missed artists like David Bowie and Amy Winehouse could well be an additional factor.
Whatever the reason, sales of vinyl in the UK have increased every year since 2007 and records are now part of the ‘shopping basket’ of household goods used by the Office for National Statistics to measure annual inflation. Does a record have a more ‘human’ sound, or are today’s hipsters discovering music on Spotify and then buying the vinyl version to cherish?
Note: Here in Loulé, Vinyl Boutique Records in Galerias D. Leonor 31, Av. José da Costa Mealha, has a great selection.
EMMA BUNTON
TRAVEL Power or responsibility
WITH SUMMER TRAVEL ON THE AGENDA, DR MICAELA , A SPECIALIST IN TRAVEL MEDICINE, WHO CONSULTS AT THE FAMILY MEDICAL CENTRE IN VALE DO LOBO, STRESSES THE IMPORTANCE OF PRE-HOLIDAY CHECKS BEFORE YOU HEAD OFF
EVERY DAY we wake up in a different world! It is our duty to keep up with change so we can live a peaceful and happy life.
It was just a century ago that the Wright brothers invented the first aircraft, and today flying is within everyone’s reach. Travelling has become routine in people’s lives. That’s a gift that allows us to discover new places, cultures, foods…
However, these new possibilities appeared so fast that it was almost impossible for us to realise the risks. As Spider-Man once said: “With great power comes great responsibility,” and if Spider-Man said that, who are we to doubt it? Right?
Our bodies and cultures adapt to our environment. That allows us to be more capable when dealing with health issues that exist around us. A quick look at the Covid Pandemic shows how dangerous it can be to be exposed to a disease we have little or no knowledge of. That’s exactly what happens when we travel to places completely different from our home countries. We are exposed to diseases which we have little or no knowledge of.
This way you will understand what you should avoid, which medication or vaccinations are advisable, the procedure you need to follow in case of animal bites or stings or other injuries, as well as how to manage your own medical problems during your vacations. Probably, you, the reader, are saying to yourself: “I am used to travelling and never felt the need to consult a doctor beforehand; I have never had problems, so why should I do things differently now?”
The Covid pandemic shows how dangerous it can be if you are exposed to diseases we have little or no knowledge of.
Fortunately, there are people who do have the knowledge – DOCTORS. I know Marvel doesn’t give us much credit – maybe because we don’t throw cobwebs into the air – but we truly have powers. The power of knowledge, and we’re here to share that with you, so you can enjoy new experiences safely and without drama.
This is why it is so important that you consult a doctor before travelling.
If that is your view, let me share a little of my experience and knowledge. Pay attention: serious illnesses in travellers are not common. However, when they do occur they have a high mortality rate. I’m not just talking about Malaria, Rabies and Japanese Encephalitis, for example, which have a mortality rate of almost 100%. So, basically you would be playing with the odds. And no, we don’t want to scare you, we just want to help you be safer and stay healthy so you can continue travelling.
So, book the trip, buy insurance, make an appointment with your doctor and continue creating new stories For the rest of you, may the odds be ever in your favour!
A MESSAGE FROM DR MICAELA
It is important to make your appointment well before your journey – some vaccinations take three months to become active. At the Vale do Lobo Medical Centre we will prescribe an emergency medical kit tailormade for your individual trip.
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Financial Planning for later life and health concerns
OLDER ADULTS OR
THOSE
WITH
HEALTH ISSUES OFTEN REQUIRE MORE DETAILED
AND FORWARD-THINKING STRATEGIES COMPARED TO YOUNGER, HEALTHIER INDIVIDUALS AS HEALTH CARE COSTS MAY INCREASE SIGNIFICANTLY.
MARK QUINN AND DEBRAH BROADFIELD OF THE SPECTRUM IFA EXPLAIN
THE IMPORTANCE OF FINANCIAL PLANNING
As we age, financial planning and investing take on greater significance, particularly for those facing health challenges such as dementia or other serious illnesses. These circumstances necessitate a comprehensive and thoughtful approach to ensure that financial stability is maintained and that the needs of both the individual and their loved ones are met. Furthermore, cognitive impairments like dementia can make managing finances independently increasingly challenging.
A key concern in such situations is the possibility that one spouse may have predominantly managed the household’s finances. If that spouse were to pass away or become incapacitated, the surviving partner might be unprepared to handle complex financial decisions.
This gap in knowledge and experience can lead to significant financial difficulties, or even permanent financial loss, which is why proactive planning, and the involvement of both spouses, is crucial.
Put your plan in place
1 Comprehensive Financial Review: Begin with a detailed review of your current financial status, including assets, liabilities, income streams, and expenses. Think about how these are likely to change in the event of a prolonged illness or on the death of one spouse, eg will pension income stop or costs of care increase? If assets will need to be sold or will be gifted on a death, what are the tax implications? As this could leave the beneficiary with less than expected. Understanding the full financial picture is essential for making informed decisions and early planning is key to avoid any unexpected outcomes.
2 Health Care and Long-Term Care Planning: Consider the potential costs associated with health care and long-term care. This may involve looking into long-term care insurance or earmarking certain investments specifically for medical expenses. Planning for these costs can help prevent the depletion of assets and ensure that care needs are met without compromising financial stability.
3 Estate Planning: Ensure that Wills, trusts, and powers of attorney are up-to-date. These legal documents are critical in ensuring that one’s wishes are carried out and that there is a clear plan for the management and distribution of assets in the event of death or incapacitation. A well-structured estate
plan can help avoid legal complications and ensure that the surviving spouse and other beneficiaries are taken care of according to the individual’s wishes.
4 Simplifying Finances: Simplify financial accounts and consolidate where possible. This makes it easier for the surviving spouse or a designated caregiver to manage the finances. Reducing the number of accounts and financial instruments can help streamline management and reduce the risk of oversight or errors.
5 Regularly Updating the Plan: Life circumstances and health conditions can change rapidly. It is vital to regularly review and update financial plans to reflect current needs and goals. Regular reviews ensure that the plan remains relevant and effective in addressing changing circumstances.
Conclusion
Financial planning and investing for older adults or those facing health challenges requires a proactive and comprehensive approach. The potential for increased medical costs and the possibility of cognitive decline make it crucial to have a well-thought-out plan in place. When one spouse handles most of the financial matters, it is even more critical to ensure that the surviving spouse is not left unprepared. By addressing these issues head-on and seeking professional advice, older adults and those with health concerns can safeguard their financial future and that of their loved ones. Proactive planning, regular updates, and professional guidance are the keys to managing the financial complexities that come with ageing and illness.
ASK THE EXPERTS
With over 35 years’ experience, Debrah Broadfield and Mark Quinn are Chartered Financial Planners (level 6) and Tax Advisers specialising in cross-border advice for expatriates in Portugal on financial and tax planning issues.
REMOVALS
REMOVALS
• Weekly removal service to and from the UK, Portugal and Malaga, Spain
STORAGE
• Weekly removal service to and from the UK, Portugal and Malaga, Spain
• Full or part packing and wrapping service
STORAGE
• Storage warehouses located in the UK, Algarve, Lisbon and Malaga, Spain
• Storage warehouses located in the UK, Algarve, Lisbon and Malaga, Spain
• Shop online with any furniture retailer and have your items delivered the following week
• Shop online with any furniture retailer have your items delivered the following
• Full or part packing and wrapping service
• Fully insured, secure and alarmed
• Fully insured, secure and alarmed
• One/multiple items of furniture
• One/multiple items of furniture
• One box to full house removals
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• Villa to villa moves within the Algarve
• Storage available for long or short term
• Villa to villa moves within the Algarve
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Your money
RICARDO CHAVES OF ALL FINANCE MATTERS IS HERE TO HELP PEOPLE UNDERSTAND AND DEAL WITH WHAT IS ALLOWABLE – AND NOT – WHEN IT COMES TO FINANCIAL MATTERS IN PORTUGAL. THIS MONTH ’ S KEY QUESTION, REGARDING CAPITAL GAINS TAX PAYABLE ON THE SALE OF YOUR HOME, IS ONE THAT CONCERNS ALL
PROPERTY OWNERS
QEveryone I talk to seems to have a different view on this so I need your expert advice. I bought land and built a house here in the countryside some 35 years ago. Within a short while, we will need to be, sensibly, on one floor and with less demanding outdoor space. What happens to monies realised from the ultimate sale – obviously our initial costs in the 80s were a tiny fraction of today’s values. We will be looking for a smaller property, certainly, which will cost less that the monies realised from the sale of our present house. Are there taxes involved, and what do we need to be aware of?
When selling a property in Portugal, you need to be aware of the capital gains tax implications. If you sell a property at a price higher than what you paid for it, the profit is considered a capital gain, which is subject to tax. However, you will be taxed on only 50% of the gain and additionally, if this was your main residency during the 24 months before the sale, you can reinvest the proceeds from the sale into another primary residence and/or into an open pension fund to reduce your capital gains tax, or even be exempt.
It’s important to note that properties acquired or built before 1989 are not subject to capital gains tax. But in your case, the date when you finished the construction and registered the property at the tax office is relevant. The fact that you bought the plot before 1989 is not important; the date the build was complete is the one that determines whether this sale is liable for capital gains tax or not.
Obviously, you may not have all the invoices relating to the build, in which case we can use the tax valuation at the time the property was registered at the tax office, in case this value is higher than the price of the plot, plus the invoices. As the invoices are for the build, there is no time limit (normally you can only offset the invoices for refurbishments over the previous 12 years, except if they were for the build of the property).
For the sale of your current house, if the money obtained is invested in another permanent home within 36 months after the sale, or 24 months before the sale, you
might avoid capital gains tax. This is particularly relevant since you mentioned looking for a smaller property, which will cost less than the money realised from selling your present home. In this case, and if you are at retirement age, you may also consider investing part of the proceedings of the sale in a financial product, in which case the money needs to be reinvested within six months of the sale of the property.
Please note that the taxable amount from your property sale is added to your other income for the year, which is then taxed based on the progressive income tax rates. These rates currently range from 14.5% to 48%, depending on the total income. This rule is the same, whether you are tax resident or not, and also irrespective of having the NHR status.
QMy office is in my home, in a dedicated area consisting of a main room and bathroom. I would like to install underfloor heating throughout the house. Can I charge the total cost for the whole house to my company and how do I set about it? If you decide to charge the total cost of central heating to a property that does not belong to the company, the accountant will not usually be able to accept that cost as an expense of your business.
Although you use part of the property as your office, the house belongs to you and is your main residence. Therefore, you, not the business, should pay for the installation of the central heating.
Even though the expense benefits both the personal and business parts of your home, it’s unlikely that any tax inspector would accept that this expense would be essential for your business. Also, if and when you sell the property in the future, you will not be able to offset costs that are not invoiced to the owner of the property and your capital gains tax will be higher.
PLEASE NOTE: tax laws can be complex and change frequently, so it’s always a good idea to consult with a tax professional or legal advisor for the most accurate and up-to-date information.
Send questions you may have to info@afm.tax for possible inclusion in AlgarvePLUS. To consult directly with the experts at AFM, email info@afm.tax
QWith property in Portugal and the UK (and ditto children and their families), where should I make a Will? My current one is fifteen years old?
ASuccession rules, in particular the ones that relate to international successions, changed dramatically on 17 August of 2015, when EU Regulation 650/2015 also known as Brussels IV came into force.
If your Will is 15 years old, it should be reviewed by a lawyer to check whether it complies with the new law, or whether it needs changes. This is very important, and we have come across situations in which the compliance of pre-Brussels IV Wills, with the new rules, has been challenged by the authorities.
Not being qualified foreign lawyers, namely in UK, we cannot answer whether a Will in UK is advisable, but what we can advise is that to govern the destination of the Portuguese assets, no doubt a Portuguese Will is almost imperative for foreign nationals. This relates in particular to British nationals and others originating from jurisdictions in which common law principles are prevalent. It is worth knowing that in Portugal and many other countries with the exception of former UK colonies, we are governed by civil law.
The main difference in succession law is that from our perception, in common law jurisdictions there is no forced heirship, which means that the testator or testatrix can leave their assets or estate to whomever they choose, while in civil law jurisdictions there are pre-designated heirs and only a
GOING LEGAL
LEGAL EXPERTS NELSON RAMOS AND ROBERTA RAMOS TOGETHER WITH THEIR SPECIALIST TEAM AT RAMOS & ASSOCIADOS IN ALMANCIL, ADVISE CLIENTS ON MANY ISSUES. ONE QUESTION THEY ARE ALWAYS FACED WITH RELATES TO THE MOST SENSIBLE WAY TO PRODUCE AN EFFICIENT WILL THAT ENSURES YOUR WISHES ARE MET
percentage of the estate or assets can be left to others. This is of utmost importance as under the said EU Regulation, should someone die intestate it is the law of residence that governs the succession.
This means that if a British resident dies in Portugal, it is Portuguese law which will govern his/her succession, except if he or she expressly stated in their Will that their succession will be governed by UK law and not the law of residency.
In the Algarve the most common solution is for British nationals to choose the law of England and Wales.
Each case is different, of course, but what we can say is that most of our British clients opt for a dual Will solution, one to govern the Portuguese assets, another to govern the UK assets, and we often liaise with a client’s solicitor in the UK to ensure that the Wills do not create conflict as to which Will is applicable to what asset and in which location.
In our assessment, common law provides a much better solution with regard to successions law, as the freedom that the testator has of appointing which heirs get which assets, or in which percentage.
This leaves a lot less room for litigation, which is common in Portugal among heirs, and can lead to a large number of abandoned assets, namely real estate assets caught up in endless judicial files that result in years – often decades – in which nobody benefits from them, and they can fall into disrepair as a result.
From our own experience, a large percentage of property owners in the Algarve are seniors, and sometimes have children from different relations or
marriages, which can lead to conflict.
A Will is a powerful instrument to keep the family at peace, and in particular to protect the current partner or spouse, ensuring that the survivor can benefit from the property, without necessarily harming the children’s succession rights.
Avoiding situations of co-ownership and eventual conflict between the surviving spouse or partner and the children is vital to maintain balance and fairness, while carrying out the deceased’s wishes.
It is important to repeat and emphasise that in succession law, each case is different and each person needs a different solution to meet their personal wishes. Whether they choose to leave a percentage of the estate, an asset, or a mixture of bequeathing specific assets and dividing the remainder in percentages among different heirs, a clear picture is vital. Professional legal advice is therefore important.
A final note to mention is the appointment of executors, as it is common that the testator or testatrix has someone close to the family or even one of the heirs in mind for that role.
However, often that executor is a foreign national, and may be living abroad, and therefore will not be familiar with Portuguese bureaucracy in what relates to legal steps needed for recognising the existence of the Will and registration of the assets in the designated beneficiaries’ names. For these reasons it is far more efficient to appoint a lawyer to deal with the execution of the Will.
Email questions for Ramos Associados to martin@algarveplusmagazine.com
Group exhibition, curated by Susana Rodrigues: Carlos Lobo, Christine Henry, Coletivo Artadentro, Edgar Pêra, Elisabete Sousa, Joana Patrão, João Pedro Trindade, José Oliveira, Marco Mendes, Maria Trabulo, Paulo Mendes in a celebration of Portugal’s 50 years of democracy. At the historic Trem –Manuel Baptista gallery, the artists present narratives, visions, sounds, sensations, reflections and questions about the spaces we inhabit.
Part of group exhibition. Underwater III, oil on canvas, 139x180cm.
DAVID SCHMITT
Gama Rama
Rua do Prior 13, Faro 961 371 891
On until 21 September
David Schmitt, also known as ‘Tuyo’, is a self-taught German artist based in Barcelona. In his work he tries to capture a timeless aspect, using organic forms, archaic symbols, and a childlike approach.
NGELO E
Casa das Artes, R. João Vaz Corte Real 96, Tavira acasadasartes.org 3-17 August
Walking Through Landscapes, a special collection that will delight. Discover more – see page 24
Museu do Traje, São Brás Until 30 August
The exhibition Azul is the work of Maria João Gomes who expresses herself through empreita (palm weaving), an ancient Algarve tradition of vegetal braiding, which she explores in a unique and contemporary way, celebrating sustainable art through contemporary sculptures.
PALMAS DOURADAS
Â
3 August, 21h00
LEO MIDEA This outstanding Brazilian new generation artist has been living in Portugal for the past six years and his latest CD, Gente, was recorded here and reached one million streams a month after its release. The year 2023 was a big year for Leo with 65 concerts in eight countries. This year, he performed at the Festival da Canção with his own song, Doce Mistério, sung in Brazilian Portuguese. With him at Repúblic 14 will be Giovanni Barbieri on keyboards and Felipe Bastos on drums.
República 14, Olhão
republica14.pt, reservas@republica14.pt
10 August, 21h00
CARLA PONTES In 2022, she released her first solo album entitled O Mar em Mim (The Sea in Me), with eleven unreleased songs, in partnership with composer and producer Barqueiro. The album has a neo-fado aesthetic, with various traces of world music and a contemporary touch with electronic elements combined with classical instruments, such as the piano and cello.
Amigos de Música
amigosdemusica.org, Os Agostos
For details of the concert season that starts on 10 September, visit the website. For membership enquiries please contact helga.hampton@gmail.com
17 August, 21h00
ZÉ MANEL MARTINS TRIO Zé Manel Martins, with Adriano Alves and Jorge Carrilho, performs compositions influenced by the traditional rhythms – Massemba, Semba, Kilapanga and Rumba.
24 August, 21h00
RODA DE SAMBA Nani Medeiros with João Pita on the 7-string guitar, Lucas Sousa on the cavaquinho, Fernando Baggio and Juninho Ibituruna on percussion. And you can book an excellent Brazilian Feijoada. Places are limited.
LATIN WAVE BAND
Museu Do Traje, São Brás 966 329 073 admin@amigosdomuseu.com amigosdomuseu.com 10 August, 19h00
This inspirational group specialises in Salsa, Merengue, Bachata, Bolero, Reggaeton and Latin jazz. Singer Oda Palácio, pianist Juan Carlos Petit and on trombone/ bongos Luis Garcia. If you would like to try out some basic dance steps before the band starts, a fun session will be held in the New Gallery at 18:00 with Dawn-Marie. (€2 and no need to book!). Refreshments available throughout the evening. Tickets €10 (Amigos €8).
31 August, 12h00 ORQUESTRA ASSINTOMÁTICA The brainchild of Argentinian bandoneonist Martín Sued, who lives in Portugal, Orquestra Assintomática was born out of the Covid-19 pandemic and made its debut in Lisbon at the end of 2020. He explained to Público that the name came about as a joke: “We had spent so much time locked up at home that we started meeting up often. Until then, none of us had had Covid and someone suggested it was because we were an asymptomatic orchestra. It became a name for rehearsals and then it stayed forever.” And yes, they all got Covid in the end!
GRINGOS WASHBOARD BAND
Vale do Lobo Tennis Academy 3 August, 20h30–22h00
Truly contagious rhythm, jazz and blues from this talented band, winner of the 2nd Portugal Blues Challenge in 2023, that stands out for its passion for traditional New Orleans music. Tickets €30, from eventbrite.pt
SAMBA CIRCLE BY SAMBA SEM FRONTEIRAS
Vale do Lobo Tennis Academy 17 August, 20h30
Rhythm, melody, and great foot-tapping music for all ages. Tickets €30, from eventbrite.pt
FOLKFARO
Various venues, 962 556 599 facebook.com/grupo.folcloricodefaro, 18-24 August
Dancing groups from seven countries in addition to those from Portugal, in the biggest festival south of the Tejo.
BEE GEES TRIBUTE
Vale do Lobo Parque do Golfe, 24 August, 19h30
This musical show will relive the incredible composition talent of Barry, Maurice, and Robin Gibb, the true Bee Gees with all their energy and rhythm. From 60s classics like New York Mining Disaster 1941 and Massachusetts, to the disco explosion of the 70s with hits like Stayin’ Alive, Jive Talkin, You Should Be Dancing, and Night Fever, and more recent tracks such as You Win Again and Alone. Don’t miss it!
Emídio Freire (Restaurante Faina, Portimão) and Pedro Teles Ramos (A Casa Portuguesa, Barcelona) join forces with Mauro Azoia (Velvet Boutique Wines) to create an exciting and unique dinner experience at Galeria Meinke Flesseman. Emídio is the chef behind the naughty menu — reinventing local dishes with a glimpse of kink. Pedro will set the mood with his spicy vinyl collection, while Mauro, the Winemaker, will present his unique wines. Not to be missed!
Fairs and festivals
RIA FORMOSA FESTIVAL
São Francisco Square Faro
On until 6 August 18h00–02h00
Enjoy the entertainment and savour the best shellfish from the Ria Formosa and regional specialities that draw on the recipes and traditions of the capital.
OLHOS DE ÁGUA SARDINE FESTIVAL
Largo dos Pescadores Albufeira 11–13 August, 18h00
Guess what’s cooking? And there’s loads more to choose from besides.
SILVES MEDIEVAL FAIR 9-17 August
Nine days packed with entertainment, including jousting, jugglers, acrobats, dancers and snake charmers in the old city. Lots to experience, lots to buy, and some terrific foods and drinks.
And don’t forget, Farmers Market at Quinta Shopping, first Sunday of the month
Vale do Lobo valedolobo.com
Pilates for Kids Tuesdays, 14h00–14h45, Fitness Centre
Family Bootcamp Tuesdays, 18h00–18h50, Fitness Centre
Social Padel Challenge Fridays, 18h30–21h30, Tennis Academy Tournament Round Robin: Wednesdays, 16h00–18h00, Tennis Academy
SUMMER JUNIOR GOLF ACADEMY
Vale do Lobo Golf Club
Register at Vale do Lobo Golf Club Reception valedolobo.com
Monday to Friday 17h00 and 19h00
Young golfers can hone their skills with specially-tailored lessons led by the Vale do Lobo golf pro that cover aspects including swing, putting, chipping, bunkers, rules, competitions and on course play.
€125 per child for five days. Pre-registration required. Classes will take a maximum of ten children.
And finally
TAKE A MAN OUT OF HIS FAMILIAR SURROUNDINGS AND HE COULD FEEL A LITTLE LOST. ANTHONY MARTIN WENT BACK TO HIS BIRTH AND GROWING-UP PLACE AND WAS AMAZED AT HOW A FEW YEARS COULD PRODUCE SUCH DIFFERENCES. HE ’ S BACK HOME NOW... AND HAPPY TO BE HERE
SAMUEL JOHNSON , in the early part of the 18th century, famously said: “Why Sir, you find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London. No, Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.”
This makes me wonder just what it was that Sam enjoyed so much in his London of the time? Did he not flinch at the public hangings? And women being burned alive on the stake at what is now Marble Arch – now that must have been quite a spectacle. Or did the bull and bear baiting float his boat – it takes all sorts.
I have just returned from a few days in London, and I beg to differ with the good doctor. Admittedly, this is the first time I’ve been back for five years and, after 14 years here, I have become used to the peacefulness of being in the hills above the coast.
Living and growing up in London, although at the time was wonderful, is now firmly in the past and, after some days back there, I felt I had entered a parallel universe. I was no longer a Londoner, I no longer belonged, I was a stranger visiting the city – and actually, that felt so good.
events but, if I really want that I only have to take a two-hour drive to Lisbon, or Seville.
I don’t recognise London now, as new buildings have sprouted up and roads formed where there were none. At one point, standing in an area that I once knew very well, I looked around and wondered where I was, but hey-ho, that’s progress for you, which unfortunately comes with many downsides, one being space, or I should say lack of space.
Space for people and space for vehicles. The traffic was horrendous, how did I live with that for so long?
In the time it took me to travel two miles, I could have driven from Almancil to Portimão.
I enjoy the peace and quiet here, the sunsets, the sound of waves on the beach instead of the sound of sirens at night.
I hated the crowded streets, the constant flow of commuters carrying their morning coffee in cardboard cups. The rush, the impatience of others, the must-have-it-now attitude, and then I remembered that that used to be me – well me without the newly-found rudeness of the locals. So no, I do not miss it, not one iota. London had, and still has, everything that I wanted out of life – then. But as I grew older, my needs changed. I now enjoy the peace and quiet of southern Portugal, the sunsets, the sound of waves on the beach instead of the sound of sirens at night.
If there is anything I miss it is first-class cultural
We came here to relax and enjoy the slower pace of life. As you must know from experience, you can be standing in a post office, and someone will walk in and greet the room with a hearty “Bom Dia”. Don’t try that, as I did, in Central London. As I called out an experimental: “Good Morning”, some people turned their backs on me while others increased the room between us and, I’m sure, there were some who considered calling for help.
Shame really, the differences between the populations of small towns and big cities – I wondered if the differences were based on trust, or just personal space issues.
The main reason for this trip to London was to celebrate youngest grandson’s birthday and, during a dinner, I mentioned that our daughter and son-in-law must be overjoyed that we were living one thousand miles away and unable to pass on our wisdom on the art of bringing up children. Frankly, I am amazed that the grandchildren, without the benefit of our wisdom, are so wonderfully normal.
But back to Dr Johnson. Although I respect your achievements, your intellect and your life’s work, I do feel that, were you living in London today, you would seriously reconsider those early sentiments.
