algarvePLUS - June '21

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START OFF PLUS

SUSI ROGOL GOODKIND, EDITOR

+351 965 581 831 | susi@algarveplusmagazine.com

C O N T A C T S MARTIN GOODKIND

KIM COLLEY

Publisher +351 963 146 398 martin@algarveplusmagazine.com

Art Director +44 (0)7973 426196 dk.colley@btinternet.com

APT 1093, EC Olivas de St Ant (Loulé) 8101-904. Printed by Gráficas Piquer, Almeria Algarve Plus is published monthly. 6,000 copies are made available through a hand-picked distribution network from Faro to Paderne, Almancil, the Golden Triangle, Loulé, São Bras and Santa Barbara. Copyright 2021. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose other than short extracts for agreed review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Algarve Plus does not accept liability for loss or damage to any materials submitted for publication. Or claims made by advertisers. The views expressed by interviewees or contributors do not necessarily reflect those of the Editor or Algarve Plus. algarveplusmagazine.com

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Hate to say WOW, but that’s what we are dealing with. Triple WOW, actually. Airport packed with new arrivals, masks on and sunspecs at the ready; restaurants needing reservations to guarantee a table, shops seeing a demand for their latest collections, galleries selling works from their very best artists, and hotel rooms filling up fast. It is amazing, after so many months of quiet roads and shuttered windows and gloom-filled conversation, that life has gone into boom mode, and everyone is smiling and looking forward, rather than back. The temperature is soaring, barbecues are sizzling and there is nowhere anyone would rather be than right here, right now. Producing this issue of AlgarvePLUS has been especially interesting. We started it while lockdown was in full swing and had to change our thinking processes and direction with each new announcement about what could/might/should/would happen. Daily sometimes, and challenging to say the least. But closed doors tend to open new windows and create an awareness of people and places and events and thinking processes that were not foremost in our thoughts before. That’s all changed – and changed for the broader, and the better – and I feel it is reflected in this, our mid-year issue. Enjoy it... and our new world.

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NEWS PLUS

COOKING FOR YOUR FOUR-LEGGED FRIEND

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My Dog Eats Better Than Me, published by Hardie Grant this month, is the ultimate recipe book for dog lovers who want to feed their canine companions with nutritious and satisfying meals and treats, from biscuits and main meals to doggie celebrations. The book stars a cast of pooches – big, small and inbetween, and in addition to the recipes, you’ll find tips on ingredients to use and avoid, as well as storage and wellness advice, such as doggie yoga and spa treatments.

F R O N T COV E R : Nothing left to say – this image does it all for us. Happy summer.

H&M has announced a collaboration with lemlem, the womenswear brand founded by Ethiopian supermodel, actress and women’s empowerment advocate Liya Kebede. Comfortable in the city yet ready for that summer getaway, the lemlem x H&M collection features a relaxed, fashion-forward range of kaftans and beachwear pieces with bold stripes and dip-dyed colour-blocking along with swimwear, jewellery and accessories, made of more sustainable materials. Available at selected H&M stores, and online at hm.com.

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE


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LOOKING AFTER WILDLIFE

CHOPSTICKS There are more and more sushi bars opening and those doing take-away are delivering authentic tastes. Kamiza in Loulé is already a firm favourite.

KIDS STUFF The Castle of Tangled Magic by Sophie Anderson and Saara Söderlund, is a proper, old-fashioned fairytale the brothers Grimm would be proud of. It has absolutely everything – magic and goodies and baddies and witches without anything too scary. It's deeply atmospheric and contains morals, and of course the goodies win in the end. 9-12 year olds will love it.

For 25 years, RIAS, the Wild Animals Research and Recovery Centre in Olhão, has been involved in the recovery and release of thousands of wild animals after their treatment. The well-being and survival of each animal – from hedgehogs to weasels to wild birds (not cats and dogs, though, as these are well catered for) – contributes to research and environmental education and awareness within the community, not only in Ria Formosa, but throughout the country. Volunteers are always needed, and fund-raising activities are vital. The recent crowd-funding campaign has been a real success. To find out more visit rias-aldeia.blogspot.com/


P E T H E AV E N

SPEC SO Okay, want to stand out? These sun specs from Missoni will get you noticed. This is summer dressing at its prettiest. edel-optics.pt

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE

Or out in the open countryside? Here’s the way to go: This 4-person picnic backpack is equipped with all your needs, including ecological and biodegradable bamboo fibre plates. Practical and eronomic, it has a large isothermal zip-round compartment. €84. lesjardinesdelacomtesse. com/

A BASIN OF STYLE This counter-top washbasin is made of petrified wood that comes from Sumatra. From Guru-shop in Germany, it will add a real touch of class to the smallest room in the house. €349. Check out guru-shop. de – ‘washbasins’ in the search box will bring up a big selection.

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Want your pooch or cool cat to live in style, as well as comfort? Discover Aposentis, the Portuguese designer brand that handmakes the most gloriously extravagant beds and headboards, and even little bedside tables to hold food and drink for the pets who want to stay put. There are incredible colours, in quilted velvets, embossed damasks, print and plain mixes – but you get to choose as every piece is bespoke. Especially good news is that when you travel en famille, your pet can take his or her bed with as they are portable. Shop online at aposentis.com

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PRETTY FEET We picked up this pair of rib-soled flatties (great for calçada-walking) at the Seaside super-store. They look great with summer cottons, and come in at a cool €29.95

NEWS PLUS


H E AV Y M E TA L THE NAME CARLOS DE OLIVEIRA CORREIA M AY N O T B E I N S TA N T LY R E C O G N I S A B L E , B U T H I S I M M E N S E S C U L P T U R E S C E R TA I N LY A R E . T H E L I F E - S I Z E D B O AT- P L A N E I N SÃO BR ÁS , THE WRITHING OC TOPUS IN QUARTEIR A , THE KNIGHT ON HORESBACK IN CASTRO MARIN ARE JUST A FEW OF HIS INCREDIBLE WORKS

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BRIAN REDMOND


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N THE EARLY years of the 14th century, the Order of the Knights Templar, which had been in existence for nearly 200 years, was about to be abolished by Pope Clement V using a Papal decree. The Knights would subsequently be brutally persecuted all over Europe, their lands seized, and their members accused of heresy that resulted in their mass slaughter. The Order had been in place in Portugal since its inception and was head-quartered in Tomar in the centre of the country. Dom Dinis I, the King of Portugal, refused to take part in the persecutions and instead reconstituted them as the Ordem Militar de Cristo and negotiated an agreement with Clement’s sucessor, John XXII, to allow the newly-created Order to inherit the properties and assets of the Templars in Portugal. Dom Dinis then used the services of the Order during the ‘Reconquista’, to expel the Muslims out of the country. The Order of Christ eventually located itself at the strategic coastal town of Castro Marim at the mouth of the Rio Guadiana, and remained there until 1397, during which time the movement would serve Henry the Navigator at the beginning of Portugal’s Age of Discoveries. On the approach to Castro Marim today, you will be struck by the well-preserved castle that overlooks the

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town but as you draw closer, right there in the centre of the road stands an enormous Ordem Militar de Cristo knight on horseback. It is, in fact, a magnificent sculpture, fashioned from steel rods and plate so as to make it seem almost translucent – an ethereal figure still protecting the fortress town after more than 600 years.

From agriculture to metalwork This spectacular work of art was conceived, designed and built by the esteemed artist and sculptor Carlos de Oliveira Correia. Born in Huambo, Angola, in 1955, he spent a brief time as a boy with his family near Aveiro, before returning to live in Portugal permanently when he was 20 years old. He studied agriculture in Lisbon, and at one time had the largest agri-nursery in the Algarve, giving work to more than 70 people before the enterprise was destroyed by the wild fires here in 2004. Some 15 years ago, while studying at the University of the Algarve (UAlg) in Faro, Carlos began to develop his skills as an artist, working with metal from a warehouse at his old nursery business in the hills above Castro Marim. He now produces all his work from there, and on a recent visit he explained his process to me. But first it is useful to familiarise yourself with some of his sculptures in order to

Opposite page: Part of Liberdade, in São Brás, known as the Family. This page, top: Hidroavião, the Hydroplane, also in São Brás. Above left: The Order of Christ Knight in Castro Marim; Above right: The twisting turns of the Octopus in Quarteira


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grasp the amount of care he puts into achieving the subtle details that bring his work to life. Some of his more famous pieces were commissioned by various câmaras around Algarve. For example O Polvo, the Octopus, in Quarteira; Os Corticeiros in Silves, Liberdade, and Hidrovião (Hydroplane) both in São Brás de Alportel, and Ronaldo’s Bicycle Kick which was on display at the Hotel Ria Park during the national team’s visit. Whilst the Hidrovião is practically a life-sized replica, built from sheet metal and includes a rotating propeller that spins in the wind and was engineered to millimetre perfection, the other pieces are fashioned from literally tens of thousands of punched metal disks, each one bent by hand on a work bench into a desired curve or shape and then spot welded onto a skeleton frame of steel bars. The Ronaldo piece took three men 21 days to complete. Carlos studied videos of the famous goal that Ronaldo scored for Real Madrid against Juventus many times over to achieve the right body angle, ball trajectory and even expression on the footballer’s face. The Liberdade work was originally conceived as a flock of birds bursting out of a cage, but was changed to the Family we see today. Unfortunately, the piece was badly damaged shortly after its installation by a motorist who ploughed through it one night, but happily it is back to its original glory now. ‘ Os Corticeiros in Silves celebrates the locality’s cork industry . The artist has also created an installation on the river bank in Silves of a set of four figures each one alluding to the importance of sport and well-being. Alvor hosts a spectacular piece that shows a child desperately trying to get a cup of clean water from the earth but instead finds a tap fixed to the globe that is only spouting plastic detritus. It’s not the first time that Carlos has created an awareness of coastal pollution from plastics. A few years ago he created a giant fish made like a basket or a ‘piggy-bank’ that was sited on the beach in Tavira to encourage beach-goers to pick up any bits of plastic they saw on the sands and to deposit them in the fish’s belly. The idea has been replicated on beaches throughout Europe with great enthusiasm.

Alvor hosts a spectacular piece. It shows a child desperately trying to get a cup of clean water from the earth but instead finds a tap fixed to the globe that is only spouting plastic detritus.

So many themes As well as rigid metal, Carlos has also used metal mesh to create some of his pieces, the Golf Buggy at the entrance to Benamor Golf Club in Tavira is one example, as is a donkey and cart that is in the Praça Marques de Pombal in Vila Real de Stº António. One of Carlos’ favourite pieces, O Contrabandista, represents the smugglers of the Guadiana. It is formed from a steel bar shell, and filled with river stones and seems to hover over the ground. Castro Marim is famous for its sea salt. Flor de Sal is the ultimate pure salt favoured by healthy eaters and it is harvested there. Pure sea salt is also harvested in a town in Loire Atlantique in France, Guérande, and the two towns are twinned. Carlos created a piece to celebrate the shared interests by depicting the salt harvesters from both regions; the installation in Guérande was inaugurated in June 2018. Perhaps his most fluid sculpture to date is O Polvo. This amazing piece of art and engineering was created in 2016. As mentioned before, Carlos studies videos as a tool to visualise how his pieces will turn out, and with this spectacular sculpture he has captured the movement and grace of the octopus – it seems to be writhing from every angle and the shadows it casts enhance the illusion even more. He is currently working on a Dolphin that will be installed in Albufeira. At his workshop, he showed me a photograph of a small toy dolphin – no more than 15cm long – that he is using as a reference to build a sculpture that will stand about 5m tall when it is up on its plinth. Other installations by Carlos that are coming soon to the region are a Family of Cyclists in Alvor, a man and woman with their donkey collecting water from a well at Montes de Alvor, and a group of three couples dancing along to an acordeonista on stage, commissioned by the Grupo Folclórico de Faro. Once again, like much of his work, you can almost see the characters moving to the music. In a section of Carlos’s workshop, stand two characters from literary history – Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. They are an obvious source of pride to the artist who admires the imagination and sense of purpose of The Man from La Mancha. The original title of Cervantes novel was The Ingenious Gentleman Don Quixote of La Mancha. The epithet of ‘Ingenious Gentleman’ can also be attributed to the ‘Man from Huambo and Castro Marim’, the esteemed Sr. Carlos de Oliveira Correia.



DAY T R I P P E R S G O T G U E S T S W H O N E E D E N T E R TA I N I N G ? G O T T I M E T O YO U R S E L F T O S E E W H AT ’ S G O I N G O N C L O S E T O H O M E ? THERE’S A TOUR FOR A TOUR FOR A TOUR ON THE A L G A R V E , B U T F I N D I N G T H O S E T H AT A R E A L I T T L E M O R E U N U S U A L TA K E S A B I T O F R E S E A R C H . S O , W E D I D I T F O R YO U – H E R E ’ S O U R TO P FIVE C H O I C E S FO R TH E M O NTH

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DEBBIE REYNOLDS

TAVIRA BY TUK-TUK Known as one of the most authentic towns on the Algarve, Tavira lives up to its reputation with its beautiful churches, quaint cobbled streets, huge variety of local restaurants (no international food chains to be found here!) and stunning island beach. The private Tuk-Tuk tour certainly does it justice, with a knowledgeable guide showing off the historical sites, including its castle, Roman bridge and famed igrejas. After lunch at a local tapas restaurant, board a solar-powered boat for a trip to the beach – you can choose between the islands of Tavira or Deserta. Spend an afternoon soaking up the sun,

beachcombing or clam hunting before your boat ride back to the city. This eight-hour trip gives you a great overview of this gracious eastern Algarve town on the banks of the Gilão River.

C O S T: A d u l t s € 8 0 , C h i l d r e n (a g e 5 t o 12) €36 E: info@mariastuktuk.com T: 9 1 3 3 5 2 8 3 0


OUTINGS PLUS

LAGOS CLASSIC FOOD TOUR

C O S T: A d u l t s (a g e 1 2 - 9 9 ) f r o m € 7 5 a n d c h i l d r e n (a g e 4 t o 1 1 ) f r o m € 2 5 E : foodtoursalgar ve @ gmail.com T: 9 1 2 4 1 7 9 0 7

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One of the abiding memories of Portugal is its food, simple but always fresh and delicious and served from the heart. If you’re a newbie, or just wanting to know more about this tasty cuisine, then this tour should do the trick. Situated in and around the city of Lagos, the guides promise to take you where the Portuguese go to taste, eat or drink in a relaxed environment. So, no tourist traps here, but rather the real deal. Your trip of 3 hours 30 minutes takes you to four different restaurants and taverns where you can taste up to ten of the most traditional dishes in the Algarve, with a drink at each stop. Reviewers rave about hearing stories from the past and the present, meeting the real locals and discovering the history, architecture and culture of the city. Experienced tour guides and friendly hosts Maria and Luis describe it as “the closest thing you will find to a crash course in Portuguese cuisine”.

Your tour takes you to four different restaurants where you can taste up to ten of the most traditional dishes.

ZEBRA SAFARI WINE AND ART TOUR Arguably one of the Algarve’s best-kept secrets is its wine farms – not to mention its delicious wines. The Zebra Safari Wine and Art Tour combines some of these hidden gems with another Algarve delight – its artists. This three-hour guided tour takes you through beautiful vineyards and adegas, where you can taste award-winning wines, coupled with a visit to an open-air art gallery with giant statues, and the famed Porches Pottery. Started in 1968 as the idealistic dream of Irish artist Patrick Swift and Portuguese artist Lima de Freitas, this working pottery strives to demonstrate that “old crafts and artistic traditions

need not be lost to the plastic age”. Promising new sensations with a maximum of adventure and discovery, guests concur, saying the tour was “excellent” and “highly recommended”. Highlights were described as visiting the local wine producers (including a tasting and snack) and the visit to Porches. Tours are planned around the availability of the farms and prepared according to guests’ preferences.

C O S T: E 7 5 E : info @ze brasaf aritours .com T: 2 8 9 5 0 2 6 0 1


OUTINGS PLUS

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MONTEROSA OLIVE FARM TOUR You are likely to finish this tour knowing a lot more about this staple of the Mediterranean diet, having also enjoyed a stroll around the beautiful farm in Moncharapacho, just inland from Olhão. Built around the original olive mill dating back to around 1871, today’s Monterosa was created by the late Detlev van Rosen, who originally planned on growing vegetables, but then progressed to ornamental plant farming. Deciding to replace the water-hungry orange grove with five olive tree varieties, he soon fell in love with the art of olive oil production. Choosing to farm organically to produce only limited amounts of speciality extra virgin olive oil, Monterosa was soon winning awards around the world – and when you get to taste the oils at the end of the tour, you’ll understand why. Super experienced tour guide and olive oil taster, António makes this 75-minute tour an absolute treat. There’s no olive oil-related question he can’t answer, including its ancient history, how to cook with it, store it and buy it. Another highlight is the Horta do Félix farm with its ponds, towering trees and stunning indigenous gardens.

C O S T: € 1 0 p e r p e r s o n , i n c l u d i n g t a s t i n g a n d t a s t i n g c a rd s , c h i l d re n (6 to 1 2) € 5 . 5 0 . E : antonio @ monterosa . pt T: 9 1 4 2 9 3 1 8 4

FARO NIGHT SEGWAY COCKTAIL TOUR This highly-rated tour is a magical way to explore the capital city in the heart of the Algarve and doing it on battery-operated Segways means travelling in comfort and style. The two-hour tour starts with a non-alcoholic cocktail in the beautiful Columbus Bar, which has won numerous awards for its mixologists and drinks. It’s then time to hop on your Segways and follow your guide through the city’s historic streets and famous landmarks. Highlights include Paço Episcopal, São Pedro Church and the Old City’s Archway. You’ll hear stories and anecdotes about the vibrant city and its monuments before arriving back at Columbus for a welldeserved alcoholic cocktail, laughter and conversation. An important note is that these tours only operate at 9.30pm and 10.30pm, so make sure you grab a bite to eat first in one of Faro’s many restaurants. Those who have been there, done it, and enjoyed every minute sings this tour’s praises.

You’ll hear stories about the vibrant city before arriving back at Columbus for a well-deserved alcoholic cocktail, laughter and conversation.

C O S T: € 8 0 p e r p e r s o n (a d u l t s o n l y) E : n e l s o n @ a l g a r ve by s e g w ay. c o m T: 9 6 2 0 0 6 1 5 3


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T: +351 289 397 165 E: info@cape-gardens.com W: cape-gardens.com


DON'T MISS PLUS

C O M P O R TA

wild, wonderful and waiting

T H E C O A S TA L A L E N T E J O – O N C E O N E O F T H E P O O R E S T A N D L E A S T- P O P U L AT E D PA R T S O F T H E C O U N T R Y , D E S P I T E B E I N G P O R T U G A L’ S ‘ BREAD BASKET’ – HAS BEEN DISCOVERED B Y E L I T I S T W O R L D T R AV E L L E R S W H O A R E SINGING ITS PRAISES

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EMMA CAMPUS

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HE ALENTEJO’S arable land has

long produced swathes of rice, grains, olives, asparagus, almonds, mushrooms and grapes that thrive in the fertile, sandy soil. In Comporta, stripey fields bloom with courgettes, cucumbers, marrows and sweet potatoes, and in the summer months, farmers' stalls dot the roadsides, piled high with juicy watermelons, artichokes, and tomatoes that taste as ripe as the ground that grew them. Bulbous lemons the size of grapefruits heave from the trees, as yellow as the rice flowers, and the ground pours forth vegetables and fruit. It's hard to think of anywhere else so


A great foodie scene led by restaurants such as Cavalarica Comporta (located in the old stables in the village), and Restaurante Ilha do Arroz (holed out of the old rice mill) , ensures that the high-end hippy tummies are filled with delicious, considered, yet hearty dishes prepared using fresh and seasonal ingredients grown locally. In the summer, pop-up street feasts (this year graced by newcomers Pizza and Piscos) create a laid-back atmosphere that peters out into the night under a heavy canopy of stars, the crash of the waves in the distance. Mercearia Gomes, the local grocery store, is packed with local delicacies – cheese from nearby Alcácer do Sal and bread baked in the village if lunch at home al fresco calls. To pair with the fare, Herdade da Comporta is the town’s vineyard, which turns salty grapes peppered by the Atlantic air into fresh and delicious wine which can be tasted on their estate just outside of the village overlooking the paddies.

Boutique hotels, boutique shopping

This page, top right: Beachside chic at Sublime Comporta Beach Club. Above: The walkway to the fishing boats. Right: The farmers are proud of their produce, the artisans of their hand-worked bags at Mercearia Gomes grocery store

Routines here are as well-worn as the cobblestone streets and there are those who return again and again to Comporta’s slowly growing list of boutique hotels nearby, such as Quinta da Comporta and Sublime Comporta (which opened its first beach club last summer). Each celebrates the luxury of less, focusing on sustainable solutions to tourism. Sublime, a collection of wooden houses set amongst the pine forest recently added a row of bio-pools to its list of nature-friendly amenities. Visitors to the hotels waltz into town for a caipirinha at Comoba, or to frequent the row of thatched roof boutiques selling designer dresses and bikinis. Côté Sud, whose outpost in the Algarve lies in Quinta Shopping, and Lavanda, are filled with floaty, printed dresses and straw hats that will have any newbie feeling in with the in-crowd.

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abundant. Here is a rustic, fuss-free way of life. Yet, as the biggest region in Portugal, there are two sides to the story and the coast is a newer addition on the international tourist map, pulling in an abundance of visitors looking for what some spoke of as ‘the new Ibiza’ or a ‘mini Hamptons’. To credit those credentials, yes, the affluent, the influential, the great and the good of the fashion, design and architecture communities around the world have made it here, and sure, for a couple of weeks in the summer you may spot the odd supercar. But there is a quieter, more whimsical side to Comporta that does not get enough credit when the celebrities that touch down for a week or two a year so often act as click bait. The name Comporta, roughly translated, means a gate that holds back water, a lock. Which makes sense when you see how many canals there are. This is rice-paddy land and rice farmers have been in Comporta since the beginning of time, as have the fishermen and salt makers. The land once belonged to the King of Portugal and has been owned, since the 1950s, by the Espírito Santo family. Yet, it wasn’t until the early 2000s that someone really began to realise what was here; one of the last unspoiled stretches – 40km to be exact – of Atlantic Ocean coast in all of southern Europe, it’s best kept secret. At the edge of hundreds of square kilometres of cork oak fields, vineyards and rice fields, Comporta is the perfect playground for those who seek escapism and solitude. Of course, where one goes, one whispers, and others follow, so Comporta has grown in popularity. However, it still manages to retain a sense of ‘off the beaten track-ness’.


DON'T MISS PLUS

The affluent have made it here, and for a couple of weeks in the summer you may spot the odd supercar. But there is a quieter, more whimsical side to Comporta that does not get enough credit.

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Above: The expanse of rice fields, where the land itself makes for perfect growing conditions. Below, left to right: Rice Comporta, a very different kind of souvenir and homeware store; stay in a renovated fisherman's house, Casa nas Dunas, overlooking the rice paddies; the five million-year-old russet-red rocks at Praia da Galé

Here in wild Comporta, there are, unsurprising due to its vastness, a long list of outdoor activities to choose from. For those on foot, a huge network of fishermen’s trails wind for 280km inland and along the Atlantic, the Rota Vicentina, which will take you all the way to the Algarve. You can also walk, trot or canter on horseback with Cavalos na Areia, take surfing lessons, cycle, watch dolphins, and go fishing or kayaking. For avid bird watchers, apart from the guardians of Comporta, the storks, the Santo André area is also a nature reserve and is filled to the brim with more than 200 bird species and all shapes, colours and kinds of butterflies.

Rock on Arguably the most extraordinary stretch of beach in Comporta is the wild tundra of Praia da Galé. You climb down sets of stairs built into the sandstone cliff, past another worldly collection of reddish, weathered rocks, which look like abstract sculptures or drizzle sandcastles one used to make as a child. These formations are said to be five million years old, reaching 130 feet into the sky when you’re looking up from the bottom, sat on top of a carpet of wildflowers. At sea level, look in both directions as far as you can see and

there is nothing but a vast empty beach. With the occasional fisherman, pole in hand or planted in the sand, or a dotting of families with beach umbrellas, it’s easy to find a lonely spot.

All around While Comporta is often on the lips of international travellers, what they really mean is the area around it. Carvalhal, where you’ll find quaint antiques shops selling old and ballooning teal wine bottles, drift wood sculptures and cork stools, as well as pretty brunch spot, 5 Sentidos, and two of the most lustworthy homewares shops, Barracuda and The Stork Club where filling your imaginary rice-paddy cabana is done in five quick minutes. Heading in the other direction out of Comporta towards Alcácer do Sal, and Carrasqueira, one of the oldest protected fisherman’s docks in Portugal, looms on the shores. Rickety wooden stilts push through the water below, holding together 100 metres of wooden slats. Take a walk down them at sunset and you could be at the end of the world. The towns of Grândola and Melides are further South, secret spots just outside of the buzz that feel close enough, and where many of the original ‘Comporta set’ have migrated. In Grândola, nearby Casa da Volta, a private home encased by a North African Alacova is for rent and an architectural wonder that will ensure you are up early enough for the enormous and very traditional farmers’ market on the second Monday of each month. And Melides is home to Melides Art, a community of artists who exhibit paintings, sculptures and installations. A drive or a flight back to reality from Comporta can result in serious holiday blues, as reintegration into society can highlight just how disconnected the place really is. Half stuck in time, half a contemporary crossover, Comporta marches to its own beat, one that sways and lags with a methodical melody. The turn of the rice fields from yellow, to green, to brown, and back again. The nine-year cycle of growing cork. The building of an almost skyscraper stork's nest. Alentejo’s clock is slow yet resistant, and altogether, just right.




TASTE PLUS

Crispy ginger & chilli pork fried rice ONE POT COOKERY MEANS QUICK , EASY AND HEAPS OF TA S T E S . YO U C A N G O H E AV I E R O N T H E C H I L L I – W H AT ’ S S U G G E S T E D H E R E W I L L G I V E YO U A B I T O F WA R M T H , B U T WO N ’ T K N O C K YO U R S O C K S O F F. I F YO U C O M E O F F -T H E M E A N D U S E A S E C O N D P OT, T H I S D I S H I S D E L I C I O U S S E R V E D WITH A FRIED EGG ON TOP

RECIPE

I NGR E DI E N TS

M ET HOD

1 bunch of spring onions. Cut each of the them in half where the white part starts to turn green. Slice both sections finely but keep them separate.  3tbsp sunflower oil  600g pork mince  1–2 red bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped, seeds left in  25g finely grated fresh root ginger  4 garlic cloves, finely grated  500g (4 cups) cooked brown basmati rice (2 x 250g precooked pouches is fine)  2tbsp soy sauce  2tbsp fish sauce  2 pak choi (bok choy), about 150g, quartered lengthways  100g tenderstem broccoli, halved  15g Thai basil leaves (or ordinary basil)

1 Heat the oil in your wide shallow pot. Once very hot, add the pork, the white half of the sliced spring onions, the chillies and the ginger. Cook over a high heat, stirring regularly and breaking up any clumps of meat. 2 After about 6–7 minutes, turn the heat down a little. By now, the excess moisture will have been driven off, allowing the pork to start frying in its own fat. Regularly scrape down the sides of the pot and mix to ensure all the little pieces of pork are cooked evenly. 3 After a total of 10–12 minutes, the pork mince will have caramelised in lots of places and your pot will be quite dry. Add the garlic and cook for two more minutes. Add the cooked rice to the pot, breaking it up among the pork. 4 Mix through the soy and fish sauces and then add the pak choi (bok choy) and tenderstem. Cook for 4–5 minutes over a medium heat, regularly turning everything to ensure the vegetables cook evenly. 5 Finally, toss through the finely sliced greens from the spring onions and the basil leaves. Serve sprinkled with a little vinegar for some acidity to balance the dish.

TO S E RV E : Rice wine vinegar, or apple cider vinegar

FOOLPROOF ONE-POT BY ALAN ROSENTHAL (QUADRILLE, €15.20, AT FNAC) DELIVERS EXACTLY WHAT THE TITLE SUGGESTS, AND THE PHOTOGRAPHY BY ©RITA PLATTS IS EQUALLY DELICIOUS. CHECK OUT ALAN’S TAKE ON OUR PORTUGUESE CATAPLANA.

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COOKING TIME: LESS THAN HALF AN HOUR

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of th e month ...

SERVES: 4


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T he ultimate

FA K E TA N L I V E I N T H E S U N , B U T AV O I D I T ? FA K E TA N S N O W O F F E R C A N ’ T-T E L L -T H E M - F R O M - R E A L R E S U LT S , W H E N U S E D I N T H E R I G H T WAY. A L I S O N YO U N G , R E C O G N I S E D AS ONE OF THE MOST EXPERIENCED, QUALIFIED P R O F E S S I O N A L S I N T H E W O R L D O F B E A U T Y, G U I D E S YO U TO YO U R B E S T FAU X G LOW…

F

OR SO many years, self-tanning products

were heavy and gave orangey results, but new formulations offer can’t-tell-itfrom-real results. Self-tanners are now available as sprays, mists, gels, drops and waters, so there’s plenty of choice: both regular self-tanners and gradual selftanners (body lotions with a touch of self-tan) are now available in tinted versions, which are ideal if you find you miss areas out. If you’re using a new product for the first time, do a small section (out of sight) before you use the product all over. Accidents shouldn’t happen with today’s formulas, but better safe than sorry. Exfoliate before using self-tanner Exfoliated skin – like a wall, sanded before painting – is

the best canvas. Fake tan ingredients cling to dry, dead skin cells on thicker areas of skin, such as elbows, backs of hands, knees, ankles and wrists, so prep by removing dead skin with a suitable body/face exfoliator the night before you self-tan. I f y o u ’ r e a t a n n i n g ‘ b e g i n n e r ’, c h o o s e a t i n t e d f o r m u l a These allow you to see where you’ve applied the product, for even coverage. My best tip is to check out your reflection as you apply in a full-ength mirror to make sure you’re applying evenly. D o n ’ t s e l f - t a n a f t e r a b a t h /s h o w e r/g y m s e s s i o n Sweat and self-tanner don’t mix, and will make your tan patchy. If you’ve recently washed your hair, wrap it in a towel to stop it dripping and causing the tan to streak.


BEAUTY PLUS

G e t n a k e d It’s the best way for even application and to avoid getting the formula on your underwear. However, if you’re using a spray product, wear flip-flops because otherwise your soles will pick up self-tanner where it’s misted on the floor. Having said that… the best way to make a fake tan look truly real is to apply so it creates fake flipflop marks on your feet, and even fake underwear marks. Nobody will believe it’s not a real tan.

Don’t self-tan after a bath/gym session. Sweat and self-tanner don’t mix, and will make your tan patchy.

A p p l y f i r s t t o t h i g h s , u p p e r a r m s Squirt or dollop self-tanner onto large areas of skin and massage outwards using circular strokes. Don’t hop from body part to body part; you want to be methodical: all of one leg, all the other. All of one arm, all the other. P r o g r e s s i v e /g r a d u a l t a n s c a n b e l e s s ‘ r i s k y ’ These deliver subtle, gentle colour and are a brilliant place to start if you’ve never self-tanned before. Some are like a body lotion with a small amount of tanning ingredient that you can build, day by day, till you achieve the desired level of bronzeness. Others come in the form of tanning drops; you use a pipette to add a couple of drops to your regular facial moisturiser or body moisturiser and smooth in as usual. There are also lightweight sprays that you can spritz on under your regular moisturiser. By next morning, you’ll have a very subtle glow, which you can gradually increase. Tip: If you’ve stained your hands, soak them in warm water with a cup of bran and some lemon juice, then

Facial ta n ning seru m s are not like normal f a c i a l s e r u m s Read the instructions – many of them should be added in very small doses to your regular skincare, rather than smoothed all over the face – or you may go so bronzed you’ll want to hide indoors for a week. Remember to blend down the neck (into your body tan) and to wash hands afterwards. If you’re self-tanning your face, you want to protect your brows (and beard, for men). Use Vaseline, a multi-purpose balm or facial oil, stroked onto the hairs, otherwise these can pick up the self-tanner and go an unwanted shade. Take fake tanner right up to the browline. After you’ve tanned, run a slightly damp cloth over your brows and the hairline. For men with stubble, a mist tan is probably best. Wipe over any facial hair with a dry flannel to remove the risk of hairs turning orange.

The Beauty Insider by guru Alison Young, is a guide to effortless skincare and beauty advice that works. It is published this month, by Vermilion and available from amazon.com and at FNAC Portugal

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Don’t get dressed immediately Formulations are so much better than they used to be –once upon a time it took hours of hopping around, before you could get dressed – but it’s still better to stay in loose clothing after self-tanning. If you do need to get into tighter clothes, leave at least half an hour before dressing. Be aware: bedclothes and towels can take on a fake tan, so avoid sitting on your best furniture while you’re waiting for your tan to dry!

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A l w a y s u s e g l o v e s . I find disposable gloves work better than sponge mitts. At a pinch, I’ll wrap clingfilm round my hand and use that surface for application. (If you don’t want to cover your hands, you must wash them thoroughly with soap, immediately afterwards.)

scrub with a nail brush after soaking. Body scrubs (or hand scrubs) will also help to remove excess tan, as will using a glycolic peel product. If the colour’s uneven on your body, though, sometimes the best thing is to ‘blur’ by adding another coat of self-tan, diluted half-and-half with body lotion.

ALGARVE P L U S

Skin must be well-moisturised so that f a k e t a n ‘ t a k e s ’ Smooth lotion or butter (but not oil) into areas of dryness, especially hands, knees, elbows, wrists and feet. Allow it a few minutes to sink in before applying the self-tanner.


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A L F A M A T he sounds and senses

A L FA M A I S T H E O L D E S T N E I G H B O U R H O O D I N L I S B O N . O N C E IT WA S A N O - G O A R E A W H E R E C R I M E WA S R I F E , T R AG E DY CO M M O N , A N D T H E H E A R T-W R E N C H I N G S O U N D O F FA D O E C H O E D T H R O U G H T H E N A R R OW S T R E E T S AT N I G H T, B U T T O D AY N O V I S I T O R W O U L D L E AV E T H E C I T Y WITHOUT EXPERIENCING ITS SPECIAL SOUL

Wo rd s:

ANNA ZIELANKZY


TRAVEL PLUS

A

LFAMA IS AN has a history. The name

comes from the Arabic word al-hamma, which means the source of water, so unsurprisingly there are many fountains in this part of Lisbon. When the Arabs reigned, the neighbourhood was favoured by the wealthy, but later, when the monied classes chose to take up residence in the western side of the city and the outskirts of the capital, the district was left alone to become home to the poor – to dockworkers and sailors and those who didn’t have enough and were prepared to take anything from wherever they could. Alfama is also where fado was born – not in the salons of the rich, but in the sad tascas. The aching songs of sadness and longing filled the streets, and the tired hearts of the workers, creating a unique character and a culture that is its own. Alfama and fado are inextricably linked, with fado the narration, swinging the hips of prostitutes, clouding the thoughts of drunken sailors, and now guiding tourists through the maze of streets.

So much to experience Alfama is a destination in its own right, close to the top of the must-see list of every visitor to Lisbon. Its narrow cobblestoned streets and alleyways carry the heaviness of

tourists’ steps, those who come here to discover, and are enchanted by, a very different world, and to hear the songs of solitude and misery, but also of love and hope, that are the very heartbeat of the area. You can find restaurants and cafés that offer live concerts during which you can eat a typical Portuguese meal and immerse yourself in the music that tells stories of Lisbon and the lives of simple citizens who long for the love that happened, but never returns. And Alfama is a perfect place for anyone who loves panoramic views. While discovering this district by foot, you are going to find at least one of them. The most spectacular vista is from Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen. From there you can admire the red roofs of the Baixa district, highlighted by the deep blue of the waters of the Tejo river. Santo António, a patron saint of Portugal, plays an important role in the cultural life of Lisbon. He was born in Alfama, exactly where the Igreja de Santo António stands. While the church is certainly worth visiting, most people cannot resist getting close up to the statue of the patron saint. It is said that if you throw a coin onto Santo António’s book, you will find the perfect love – whether a new partner or a better one. Feira da Ladra is a flea market that remembers all the shady interests and deals that were made in the area in the past. In the square, filled with booths, sellers promise the best bargain. You can find everything here, from old books and a great collection of vinyl,

Opposite page: Graffiti portrait of Amalia Rodrigues in the streets of Alfama. This page: Towering above, the Panteão Nacional

FAD O ’ S FAM O U S Many Portuguese singers, especially those from Lisbon, have a special passion for fado. The most famous of all was Amalia Rodrigues. Today’s stars who have made the genre their own include Mariza, Ana Moura, Carminho and Camané.


TRAVEL PLUS

OT H E R M U S T- S E E S P OT S I N ALFAMA 

Sé de Lisboa Teatro Romano  Museu do Fado  Igreja de Santo António  The belvedere Portas do Sol  Castelo de São Jorge  Museu do Azulejo 

ALGARVE P L U S

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The narrow backstreets, where hearts were once broken and washing now hangs, tell much of the story of the part of Lisbon that was once grand, then considered dangerous, but is now up there on the tourist list. Eat there, wander, and listen to the music

to handpainted tiles and antique pieces. Be aware that the bargain you just made might only be a good deal for the seller, but let’s be honest, you are paying not only for your purchase but also for the very pleasure. If you enjoy a mystical experience, don’t miss the Panteão Nacional. This massive church that towers above the lower part of Alfama is one of the biggest and most spectacular buildings in all of Lisbon. Its interior overwhelms with its classical simplicity and sheer size. It is here where some of the most important Portuguese figures, including Vasco da Gama, found their eternal rest. You can climb this huge structure to get to the roof, from where you can see spectacular views.

Time to shop While walking around Alfama, you will notice various artisanal shops. Some of them are just everyday souvenir shops, with cheap, imported items, while others are real gems where you can find high-quality, unique pieces. Chi Coração offers wonderful products made of Portuguese wool; if you love handmade items, be sure to check out Caulino Handmade Ceramics; and in Cláudia Chaves Atelier you can find beautiful, minimalistic jewellery at really reasonable prices. When you get tired of climbing what seems like billions of steps, sit in one of area’s gorgeous cafés, or rest on a square filled with the hustle of conversation. And if you love movement, just hop on tram 28, from which you can observe the streets of Alfama, where the noise of the city mixes with the clatter of the used mechanism. Nowadays, Alfama is nothing like the rough, shady neighbourhood where fado was born. However, stay alert while admiring its beauty. Similar to other parts of Lisbon, pickpockets wait here for any occasion. Alfama’s residents add to the charm of the place, with old ladies hovering from windows and chatting to each other or just observing streets, and dogs and cats cooling down in the draught from colourful open doors. But even despite the charm, the many sights, climatic cafés, and beautiful stores, Alfama is still a place where the less fortunate live. Old buildings that cry out for renovation, stuffy bars, and people who hope for better times, are a sad reminder of the living conditions that many Portuguese have to face. With laundry hanging on the lines in front of collapsing houses, Alfama cremains filled with the songs of solitude.

W H E R E T O S TAY There are hundreds of places to rest your weary feet, from relaxed little bijoux B&Bs, to luxury hotels in former palaces. Go online and take your pick – here’s just a few that come highly recommended. If you are driving, do check on parking facilities – and prices per hour – before you book.  

Convento do Salvador, 3-star

Eurostars Museum hotel, 5-star

Memmo Alfama, 4-star

memmohotels.com/alfama 

Olissippo Castelo, 4-star

olissippohotels.com 

Palacete Chafariz D’El Rei, 5-star

chafarizdelrei.com 

Santiago de Alfama, 5-star

santiagodealfama.com 

Sleeping to the Sound of Fado, 3-stars, apartment

airbnb.co 

There’s a big difference between the fado houses that serve food and the restaurants that offer a bit of fado. The first is what you want, without question. Booking is essential, unless you’ve opted for one of the many back-street tascas, in which case, get there early to grab a seat.

conventosalvador.pt eurostarshotels.com 

FO R FA D O

Vincci Baixa, 4-star

vinccibaixa.com

Parreirinha de Alfama Beco Espírito Santo 1 (about 200 metres from the Fado Museum) Around €35pp and worth every cent. Tuseday to Sunday, 8pm to 1am 218 868 209

parreirinhadealfama.com 

Tacsa do Chico Rua dos Remedios 83 Thursday to Sunday, 7pm-2am 961 339 697 

Clube de Fado Rua São João da Praça 86-94 Average price: €40 pp 218 852 704

clubedefado.pt


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䐀攀猀椀最渀 一漀爀搀椀挀 儀甀愀氀椀琀礀 䠀攀愀氀琀栀礀 ☀ 漀爀最愀渀椀挀 䠀漀洀攀猀 伀甀爀 最漀愀氀  䘀爀漀洀 爀愀眀 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀 琀漀 ǻ渀椀猀栀攀搀 瀀爀漀搀甀挀琀Ⰰ 䄀 䠀漀渀欀愀 氀漀最 栀漀甀猀攀 椀猀 愀 栀攀愀氀琀栀礀 氀椀瘀椀渀最 攀渀瘀椀爀漀渀洀攀渀琀 䠀攀愀氀琀栀礀 栀漀甀猀攀猀 椀渀猀瀀椀爀攀搀 戀礀 一漀爀搀椀挀 渀愀琀甀爀攀 昀漀爀 栀椀最栀 焀甀愀氀椀琀礀 愀渀搀 渀漀 挀漀洀瀀爀漀洀椀猀攀猀⸀  琀椀洀攀氀攀猀猀 匀

伀瘀攀爀  眀椀琀栀 漀爀最愀渀椀挀 戀甀椀氀搀椀渀最 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀猀Ⰰ 栀椀最栀 椀渀搀漀漀爀 愀椀爀 焀甀愀氀椀琀礀 㠀㔀Ⰰ   愀爀攀 搀攀猀椀最渀攀搀 愀渀搀 戀甀椀氀琀 琀漀 攀渀搀甀爀攀 攀瘀攀渀 愀氀眀愀礀猀 洀 愀渀搀 愀 眀愀爀洀Ⰰ 猀琀爀攀猀猀ⴀ爀攀搀甀挀椀渀最 愀琀洀漀猀瀀栀攀爀攀⸀  䤀琀ᤠ猀 愀渀 栀漀甀猀攀猀 戀甀 䠀攀愀氀琀栀礀 ☀ 漀爀最愀渀椀挀 䠀漀洀攀猀 挀漀渀搀椀琀椀漀渀猀Ⰰ 椀渀 愀氀氀 挀氀椀洀愀琀攀猀 愀渀搀 最攀漀最爀愀瀀 礀漀甀 搀爀攀愀洀 愀爀漀甀渀搀 琀栀 攀挀漀氀漀最椀挀愀氀 栀漀洀攀 琀栀愀琀 焀甀椀琀攀 氀椀琀攀爀愀氀氀礀 琀愀欀攀猀 最漀漀搀 挀愀爀攀 漀昀 䄀 䠀漀渀欀愀 氀漀最 栀漀甀猀攀 椀猀 愀 栀攀愀氀琀栀礀 氀椀瘀椀渀最 攀渀瘀椀爀漀渀洀攀渀琀 眀漀爀氀搀 挀椀爀挀甀洀猀琀愀渀挀攀猀⸀ 挀漀甀渀琀爀礀 栀 伀瘀攀爀  眀椀琀栀 漀爀最愀渀椀挀 戀甀椀氀搀椀渀最 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀猀Ⰰ 栀椀最栀 椀渀搀漀漀爀 愀椀爀 焀甀愀氀椀琀礀 琀栀攀 瀀攀漀瀀氀攀 眀椀琀栀椀渀 椀琀猀 眀愀氀氀猀 㠀㔀Ⰰ   愀渀搀 愀 眀愀爀洀Ⰰ 猀琀爀攀猀猀ⴀ爀攀搀甀挀椀渀最 愀琀洀漀猀瀀栀攀爀攀⸀  䤀琀ᤠ猀 愀渀 栀漀甀猀攀猀 戀甀椀氀琀  渀愀琀甀爀愀氀氀礀  攀挀漀氀漀最椀挀愀氀 栀漀洀攀 琀栀愀琀 焀甀椀琀攀 氀椀琀攀爀愀氀氀礀 琀愀欀攀猀 最漀漀搀 挀愀爀攀 漀昀 愀爀漀甀渀搀 琀栀攀

圀䔀 䈀唀䤀䰀䐀 䠀䤀䜀䠀 儀唀䄀䰀䤀吀夀 䰀伀䜀 䠀伀唀匀䔀匀 䘀伀刀 䴀伀刀䔀 伀刀䜀䄀一䤀䌀Ⰰ 䠀䔀䄀䰀吀䠀夀 ☀ 䔀䌀伀䰀伀䜀䤀䌀䄀䰀 䰀䤀嘀䤀一䜀

眀漀爀氀搀

一愀琀甀爀愀氀 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀 一漀爀搀椀挀 DES I GNED H E ALT H Y & 圀攀ᤠ爀攀 栀攀爀攀 琀漀 栀攀氀瀀 昀爀漀洀 倀䔀䘀 䐀攀猀椀最渀攀搀 昀漀爀 礀漀甀 伀甀爀 最漀愀氀 椀猀 琀漀 挀爀攀愀琀攀 戀攀愀甀琀椀昀甀氀 愀渀搀 昀甀渀挀琀椀漀渀愀氀 栀漀洀攀猀 椀渀 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀猀 FO R YO U Q U ALI昀爀漀洀 倀䔀䘀䌀ⴀ TY 䘀爀漀洀 爀愀眀 O R GA伀甀爀 最漀愀氀 椀猀 琀漀 挀爀攀愀琀攀 戀攀愀甀琀椀昀甀氀 愀渀搀 昀甀渀挀琀椀漀渀愀氀 栀漀洀攀猀 椀渀 N IC H OM ES 䌀攀爀琀椀ǻ攀搀 䌀漀渀琀愀挀琀 礀漀甀爀 氀漀挀愀氀 䠀漀渀欀愀 愀最攀渀琀 䌀攀爀琀椀ǻ攀搀 琀椀洀攀氀攀猀猀 匀挀愀渀搀椀渀愀瘀椀愀渀 搀攀猀椀最渀⸀  䄀 䠀漀渀欀愀 栀漀甀猀攀 椀猀 琀椀洀攀氀攀猀猀 匀挀愀渀搀椀渀愀瘀椀愀渀 搀攀猀椀最渀⸀  䄀 䠀漀渀欀愀 栀漀甀猀攀 椀猀 昀漀爀攀猀琀猀 昀漀爀攀猀琀猀 昀漀爀 栀椀最栀 焀 䐀攀渀椀猀 伀ᤠ䰀攀愀爀礀 愀氀眀愀礀猀 洀愀搀攀 琀漀 猀甀椀琀 礀漀甀爀 渀攀攀搀猀 愀渀搀 氀椀昀攀猀琀礀氀攀⸀  圀栀攀琀栀攀爀 Our goal is to create beautiful, From raw material to finished A Honka log house is a healthy 愀氀眀愀礀猀 洀愀搀攀 琀漀 猀甀椀琀 礀漀甀爀 渀攀攀搀猀 愀渀搀 氀椀昀攀猀琀礀氀攀⸀  圀栀攀琀栀攀爀 䠀漀 愀爀攀 搀攀猀椀最 礀漀甀 搀爀攀愀洀 漀昀 愀 洀椀渀椀洀愀氀椀猀琀椀挀 氀漀最 栀漀洀攀Ⰰ 愀 爀甀猀琀椀挀 functional homes in timeless 㜀㤀㈀  㐀㜀㘀㈀㈀㈀ product, Honka stands for high living environment with organic ㄀ 䄀 最氀漀戀愀氀 挀漀甀渀琀爀礀 栀漀甀猀攀 漀爀 愀 氀漀最 挀愀戀椀渀 椀渀 琀栀攀 眀漀漀搀猀Ⰰ 猀漀氀椀搀 眀漀漀搀 瀀椀漀渀攀攀爀 昀漀爀  Scandinavian style. A Honka 挀漀渀搀椀琀椀漀渀 quality and no compromises. 攀挀漀氀漀最栀漀洀攀猀䀀漀甀琀氀漀漀欀⸀挀漀洀 building materials, high indoor 礀漀甀 搀爀攀愀洀 漀昀 愀 洀椀渀椀洀愀氀椀猀琀椀挀 氀漀最 栀漀洀攀Ⰰ 愀 爀甀猀琀椀挀 甀欀 䄀 最氀漀戀愀氀 渀愀琀甀爀愀氀氀礀 挀爀攀愀琀攀猀 愀 眀愀爀洀 愀渀搀 椀渀瘀椀琀椀渀最 攀渀瘀椀爀漀渀洀攀渀琀⸀ 漀瘀攀爀 㘀   house is made to suit your Our log homes are designed air quality and a warm, stress- 挀漀甀渀琀爀礀 栀漀甀猀攀 漀爀 愀 氀漀最 挀愀戀椀渀 椀渀 琀栀攀 眀漀漀搀猀Ⰰ 猀漀氀椀搀 眀漀漀搀 礀攀愀爀猀 瀀椀漀渀攀攀爀 昀漀 挀椀爀挀甀洀猀琀愀 need and lifestyle. Whether a and built to endure even the reducing一漀爀搀椀挀 儀甀愀氀椀琀礀 atmosphere. It’s an 渀愀琀甀爀愀氀氀礀 挀爀攀愀琀攀猀 愀 眀愀爀洀 愀渀搀 椀渀瘀椀琀椀渀最 攀渀瘀椀爀漀渀洀攀渀琀⸀ minimalistic log home, or a rustic 漀瘀攀爀  琀栀攀 瀀攀漀瀀氀攀 眀椀琀栀椀渀 椀琀猀 眀愀氀氀猀

䐀攀猀椀最渀攀搀 昀漀爀 礀漀甀 NO RDI 一愀琀甀爀愀氀 C

倀氀攀愀猀攀  挀愀氀氀 琀漀  ǻ渀搀 漀甀琀  洀漀爀攀

harshest conditions, in all ecological home that quite 䘀爀漀洀 爀愀眀 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀 琀漀 ǻ渀椀猀栀攀搀 瀀爀漀搀甀挀琀Ⰰ 䠀漀渀欀愀 猀琀愀渀搀猀 䐀攀猀椀最渀攀搀  climates and geographical literally takes good care of the 昀漀爀 栀椀最栀 焀甀愀氀椀琀礀 愀渀搀 渀漀 挀漀洀瀀爀漀洀椀猀攀猀⸀  伀甀爀 氀漀最 栀漀洀攀猀 椀渀 琀栀攀 唀䬀 愀爀攀 搀攀猀椀最渀攀搀 愀渀搀 戀甀椀氀琀 琀漀 攀渀搀甀爀攀 攀瘀攀渀 琀栀攀 栀愀爀猀栀攀猀琀 circumstances. people within its walls. 最爀漀眀渀 椀渀

一漀爀搀椀挀 儀甀愀氀椀琀礀

栀漀渀欀愀⸀挀漀⸀甀欀 county house, solid wood creates an inviting environment.

䘀椀渀氀愀渀搀 挀漀渀搀椀琀椀漀渀猀Ⰰ 椀渀 愀氀氀 挀氀椀洀愀琀攀猀 愀渀搀 最攀漀最爀愀瀀栀椀挀愀氀 挀椀爀挀甀洀猀琀愀渀挀攀猀⸀ 䘀爀漀洀 爀愀眀 洀愀琀攀爀椀愀氀 琀漀 ǻ渀椀猀栀攀搀 瀀爀漀搀甀挀琀Ⰰ 䠀漀渀欀愀 猀琀愀渀搀猀

倀氀攀愀猀攀  挀愀氀氀 琀漀  ǻ渀搀 漀甀琀  洀漀爀攀

礀攀愀爀猀

圀攀ᤠ爀攀

䐀攀猀椀最渀攀搀 昀漀爀 栀椀最栀 焀甀愀氀椀琀礀 愀渀搀 渀漀 挀漀洀瀀爀漀洀椀猀攀猀⸀  伀甀爀 氀漀最 栀漀洀攀猀 䌀漀渀琀愀挀琀 礀 椀渀 琀栀攀 唀䬀 D E SI G N E D I N OVER 85,000 A G LO B A L NAT URA L M AT E R I A L S 䐀攀渀椀猀 伀ᤠ 愀爀攀 搀攀猀椀最渀攀搀 愀渀搀 戀甀椀氀琀 琀漀 攀渀搀甀爀攀 攀瘀攀渀 琀栀攀 栀愀爀猀栀攀猀琀 最爀漀眀渀 椀渀 圀攀ᤠ爀攀 栀攀爀攀 琀漀 栀攀氀瀀 P O R TU GAL , HOUSES BUILT A ROUND P I O N E E R FO R OV E R FROM PEFC - C E R TI F I E D 㜀㤀㈀  㐀 䌀漀渀琀愀挀琀 礀漀甀爀 氀漀挀愀氀 䠀漀渀欀愀 愀最攀渀琀 G R OWN I N F I NL AN D 䘀椀渀氀愀渀搀 60 YEARS 挀漀渀搀椀琀椀漀渀猀Ⰰ 椀渀 愀氀氀 挀氀椀洀愀琀攀猀 愀渀搀 最攀漀最爀愀瀀栀椀挀愀氀 FORES T S 倀氀攀愀猀攀 THE WORLD 攀挀漀氀漀最栀漀 䐀攀渀椀猀 伀ᤠ䰀攀愀爀礀 䠀漀渀欀愀 唀䬀 䰀琀搀 䠀攀愀搀 伀ϻ挀攀 挀愀氀氀 琀漀  㜀㤀㈀  㐀㜀㘀㈀㈀㈀ 挀椀爀挀甀洀猀琀愀渀挀攀猀⸀ ㄀㈀㜀㄀ ㌀㈀㔀㔀㄀㘀

ǻ渀搀 漀甀琀  洀漀爀攀

攀挀漀氀漀最栀漀洀攀猀䀀漀甀琀氀漀漀欀⸀挀漀洀

甀欀猀愀氀攀猀䀀栀漀渀欀愀⸀挀漀洀

栀漀渀欀愀⸀挀漀⸀甀欀

倀氀攀愀猀攀  挀愀氀氀 琀漀  ǻ渀搀 漀甀琀  洀漀爀攀

圀攀ᤠ爀攀 栀攀爀攀 琀漀 栀攀氀瀀 WE’RE HERE TO HELP

栀漀渀

C ontact䌀漀渀琀愀挀琀 礀漀甀爀 氀漀挀愀氀 䠀漀渀欀愀 愀最攀渀琀 the agent for Portugal: Denis O’Leary EMAIL: ecologhomes@outlook.com

䐀攀渀椀猀 伀ᤠ䰀攀愀爀礀 㜀㤀㈀  㐀㜀㘀㈀㈀㈀ honka.com 攀挀漀氀漀最栀漀洀攀猀䀀漀甀琀氀漀漀欀⸀挀漀洀

䠀漀渀欀愀 唀䬀 䰀琀搀 䠀攀愀搀 伀ϻ挀攀 ㄀㈀㜀㄀ ㌀㈀㔀㔀㄀㘀 甀欀猀愀氀攀猀䀀栀漀渀欀愀⸀挀漀洀


S TA N D OUT statement makers S A R A H - L O U I S E KO E S S L E R I S PAV I N G T H E WAY T O A N E W E X P R E S S I O N I N FA S H I O N , W H E R E D E S I G N B R AVA D O BLENDS WITH SHIMMER AND SHINE AND MOVES INTO THE SPOTLIGHT

Wo rd s:

EMMA CAMPUS


S PARKLE PLUS

Ta k i n g t h e p l u n g e Sarah-Louise grew up in France, in a small town in the region of Alsace, surrounded by quiet vineyards located in the east of the country close to the German and Swiss border. At 18, she made a move as daring as her now designs, leaving her family behind to relocate to London to undertake a foundation year in Art and Design. Inspired by British fashion history, and the creative communities at famous UK fashion schools like Central Saint Martins, she decided to make it permanent, swapping croissants full time for ice-cream cones in the UK’s capital of colour, Brighton. Enrolling on the BA (Hons) Fashion Design course, she graduated last year, when many students were still in lockdown and the traditional ceremonies weren’t able to take place. “Many of us were forced to make life-changing decisions,” she said of the moment in June 2020. And yet, as is often the case, from darkness came light. “I had always wanted to start my own business and this gave me the push I needed to create my own job instead of looking for someone to give me one.” It doesn't get more statement-making than this! Small wonder, then, that Swarovski singled Sarah-Louise out to create one-off pieces for its new campaign platform

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preceded the years of the Spanish flu in 1918, once pandemics end, there is often a period in which people seek out comfort in vivaciousness and vitality. Before lockdown, there was a time when subdued colourways and understated textural tones were leitmotifs of the global fashion landscape, but 2021 is looking an altogether different story, with designers ‘putting on the ritz’ with graphic patterns, eye-popping palettes and a dazzle of pizzazz. Step forward Sarah-Louise, the Algarve-based, French fashion designer conjuring a maximalist rebellion with highoctane designs that evoke flashes of Studio 54 glamour. Forget what you thought you wanted to wear this year (stretch-waist linen trousers after months of lounging on the sofa, and baggy cotton shirts), Sarah-Louise wants to empower women to be as bold as the clothes they wear.

ALGARVE P L U S

I

T HAS BEEN said that, just as the roaring twenties


SPARKLE PLUS

ALGARVE P L U S

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Of course, being 22 and living in the UK while starting a business comes with its own challenges. “I realised that I could not afford to live in Brighton so I decided to move back in with my parents here in Praia da Luz. It was a hard decision to make as I was leaving my friends and the life that I had made in the UK behind, but it is the best decision I have ever made,” she says. Connections When asked if she found it difficult being away from the ‘buzz’ of the UK’s cities, Sarah-Louise incites the power of technology – a power we have all become used to over the past 12 months – remote working, Zoom calls with friends, family and colleagues alike. Today, you can work from pretty much anywhere in the world and Sarah’s ‘anywhere’ is here, in our beautiful Algarve, where she founded SLK Designs, a label that focuses on clothes that “make the wearer feel empowered, confident and special”. Her elevator pitch? “SLK explores conceptual and architectural silhouettes, an avant-garde take on classic Haute Couture. I use innovative fabrics and craftsmanship features. I see my dresses as wearable art.”

and fabrics. It’s hard to keep trying to learn as you go along while trying to sound professional.” But having to navigate that labyrinth of formalities and business necessities hasn’t stopped her; she believes that the consumer demand shift to a more conscious and considered mentality is a blissful gift. “I think that living in Portugal has taught me to slow down and enjoy some downtime. The fashion industry is so quick to move and change direction, and I’ve decided I will not be one of those designers who produces four or six collections a year. I will be focusing on a single, thoughtthrough range a year – one-off pieces made to be timeless and constructed for durability. I don’t believe in mass production and all the items on my shop are made to order.” Sarah-Louise has built a framework of like-minded individuals in the Algarve open to collaborations. “I’ve met lots of creatives through photoshoots I’ve done at Palàcio Estoi – the beautiful Rococo-style definitely fulfilled my dreams of shooting at Versailles – and Casa Fuzetta in Olhao.” And how does Portugal relate to London or Brighton when it comes to taking inspiration? “I find inspiration everywhere, and in everything, but I found that being able to go to the beach to sit and watch the waves has really given me some brain space. And Portugal has such an exuberant architectural heritage and that is so inspiring.” Of course, as a designer seeing inspiration transform into tangible pieces is one thing, but having real women wear your clothes is all together another, and Sarah-Louise wants to communicate to women who might wear her collections that fashion is not about dressing to please others but for their own joy. “You only live once, after all, and fashion is a way for us to imagine, to create characters for ourselves, and quietly (or not so quietly!) reveal more about who we are as people”. Every designer has a muse, and Sarah-Louise is no different: “To see a woman like Lady Gaga wearing my clothes would be a huge moment.” While dreams continue, she is working hard on a new collection for September. “This will be a high-end runway collection,” she says. So, fellow Algarve fashionistas, it looks like we’ll all be swapping swimming cossies for couture this summer…

Sarah-Louise explores conceptual and architectural silhouettes, an avant-garde take on classic Haute Couture. She uses innovative fabrics and craftsmanship features; she sees her dresses as wearable art.

A sparkling talent And wearable art they are indeed. So much so that Swarovski – the world’s leading name in crystals and notorious for its support of young and talented designers – commissioned Sarah-Louise to create pieces for the launch of their sparkling new brand identity. The Swarovski Wonderlab is described as a place where science and magic meet, and extra and elegance collide. With her focus on garment engineering, vibrant textures, metallic sculptures, and innovative materials, she describes the moment when she first saw her dresses in the global campaign that graced the windows of stores from LA to Lisbon. “I was flying to Lisbon when the campaign launched and landed at 5am to see it splashed all over the airport. I thought I was dreaming, and then I remembered. It was an incredible feeling." But of course, such gleeful and rewarding moments do not come without hard work and ardour behind the scenes. “It’s hard to set up your own business when you are fresh out of university,” Sarah-Louise recalls. “There are so many things that you have to just learn on the spot like how to cost your items, how to create an invoice, how to source manufacturers

See more, and shop, at slksarah-louisedesigns.com


TECHNIQUES PLUS

A l esso n i n W E A S K E D K I T & C A B O O D L E TO S H A R E A F E W H OW -TO S E C R E T S . T H I S M O N T H , I T ’ S A L L A B O U T S TAT E M E N T E F F E C T S T H AT T U R N E D A C H I P P E D A N D VA R N I S H E D S I X- D R AW E R C H E S T I N TO A L I T T L E WO R K O F A R T

ipes. . r st f a Gold len a super-thin fouoilr

ty fi Golf lea to measure ou or less to e Use tape ut pieces mor lication. c a d n er pp spaces a st for an easi ish to secure r n shape fi d S ize or Var place. Use Gol r gold leaf in you

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effe g Wa Get the old G ildin G

Getting started One of the most important steps in painting furniture is the non-sexy part of giving it a good clean first to strip off all the built-up grease and grime, especially if, like this piece, it’s been around for a bit. We use Dixie Belle’s White Lightning or Sugar Soap solution in warm water and a simple washing up sponge.

Next

A good vacuuming, inside, outside and underneath (cobwebs could have built up). Drawers may need some bees wax or simple furniture polish added to the runners to ensure they don’t stick.

And then It’s sand-down time, first using an 80 grit and then a 120 grit sandpaper – paint sticks well to raw wood. A coat of chalk paint, another quick wipe down to remove the dust, and you’re ready to go. Dixie Belle’s Caviar chalk paint is self levelling and gives a nice smooth finish when applied with a synthetic brush. A black wax to seal ensures that the colour stays dark.

rawer s. d he t of s the side design with P rima isrs n o s r fe s n ansfe Tra om Re g. These tr transfer fr

ure bbin The furnit to the wood by ru d even fabric. d’ in s an ‘burnishe used on ceramic be can

The team at Kit & C aboodle are happy to advise you, or to suggest what they can achieve for you. T: 2 8 9 3 9 4 2 57 / k i t a n d c a b o o d l e . p t


Magic Beauty: The anti-aging experts

Manuela and Grit, highly experienced beauticians from Germany, employ the latest technology and associated preparations at their salon in Almancil where the focus is on tailor-made anti-aging, skin-refining treatments for women and men. HIFU / SMAS Lifting for the face and body, is the latest offering, and one that produces amazing, lasting results.

Visit Magic Beauty for a complimentary consultation Av. 5 Outubro 137, 8135-100 Almancil T: 927 599 283 W: magicbeauty.info

Magic Beauty Almancil

TRIBULUM AT HOME FROM OUR DOOR TO YOURS

Enjoy restaurant-quality food in the comfort of your own home

tribulumalgarve.com

@tribulumalgarve


COMPETITION PLUS

WIN

L A S T Y E A R ' S C O M P E T I T I O N AT T R A C T E D S U B M I S S I O N S F R O M B U D D I N G A U T H O R S A C R O S S T H E A L G A R V E . H E R E ' S A N O T H E R O P P O R T U N I T Y. . .

HE CONRAD PRESS, which staged the 'Get

Published' programme we featured in AlgarvePLUS last year, was both surprised and delighted with the weight and quality of entries, so much so, a second edition of the competition is now planned. Here is the opportunity for you to become a published writer with your work produced both as a print book and e-book in the UK, and an e-book around the world. To enter the competition, you need to send the first 3,000 words of a novel, or the first short story of a collection of short stories, or the first five poems of a selection of poems, to James Essinger, principal of The Conrad Press, at jamesessinger@theconradpress.com Entries are agaibn open to a novel of between 40,000 and 80,000 words, a collection of at least five short stories with an overall length for the collection of 80,000 words, and also a collection of poems with a maximum total length of 4,000 words. Submissions should be written in English and must either be set in the Algarve or have a strong Algarve connection. The closing date for the competition is 31 October 2021.

Only one publication deal will be awarded. The final book, given that it reaches professional standards, will be published by The Conrad Press in June 2022. All expenses of publication, including the printing of 300 paperback copies, will be met by The Conrad Press. No advance will be paid to the author, but he/she will receive a 25 percent royalty on all sales of the book both in print form and as an e-book. Also, the winner will receive 75 percent of revenue from additional Rights sales of the book, such as for TV/movie rights, US rights and all translation rights. The winner will be able to give ample input to what they think the cover of their book should look like. The winner will be asked to check over the proof of the book before it is published.

Your book or collection of short stories or poems could be in print in less than a year and you could be in line to receive royalties on all sales

Please note: AlgarvePLUS is facilitating this competition but has no involvement with entries, or the decision-making process. Any questions should be directed by email to James Essinger of The Conrad Press. Dawn Annandale's 'The Lockdown Diaries', winner of last year's competition, will be available from Amazon in July.

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ANOTHER CHANCE TO GET PUBLISHED

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YO U R B O O K I N PRINT FORM AND AS AN E-BOOK


I F YO U AR E A SO CIAL M E D IA U S E R AN D I NTO S T Y LI S H D ÉCO R , YO U WI LL H AV E C O M E AC R O S S E S C O L H I D O , T H E C O N S U LTA N C Y S E R V I C E I N F I G U E I R A 36

I N T H E W E S T E R N A L G A R V E , T H AT

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DESIGNS, STYLES AND SOURCES P R O D U C T S A N D S E R V I C E S T O C R E AT E A UNIQUE ENVIRONMENT

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S PACE S Wo rd s:

SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND


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DESIGN PLUS

E

SCOLHIDO IS is the brainchild and

huge passion of partners Jade Jasmin Passey and Daniel Baker. Through their experience, love of sustainable homewares and design, and expertise in creating beautiful spaces, the company has grown from an Instagram mood board shop, into an interior design and styling consultancy with a portfolio of private clients and boutique hotels who want to buy into the distinctve style that is recognised as the Escolhido personality. The ethos behind the brand is the mindful creation of timeless spaces. “We source and hand-choose sustainable, individual pieces for clients who are looking for something special, or something they cannot find themselves,” explains Jade. “We seek out the unusual – be it a subtle accessory or a key feature – that has a history and tells a story and can transform an area into something truly personal.” Escolhido also runs a concept store through its website. Here one finds a wonderful, eclectic collection of items available to purchase, much of it pre-loved and often rare. The reach of the store is now being widened to include some carefully selected brands from makers and creators who share the mindset of the couple behind the label. Key to the company’s development is its creation of a

community of professionals, gathered together to help deliver the absolute best. “We want to champion those around the world who we admire. On our website we have a ‘reading material’ feature called Let’s Talk, where we speak to some of our favourite people about what they do and what inspires them. We can’t wait to share the collaborations we have lined up. Working with these talents is such a pleasure. I love getting to know them, and really enjoy the design process from start to finish.”

Gathering the best choices Given the Escolhido passion for old pieces, the duo journey across Portugal, their trips often based around flea market weekends or visiting some interesting producer. And now that travel abroad is permitted again, they’ll be back to exploring what other countries have to offer. “We always make sure there is extra room in our cases so we can source interesting pieces from our travels,” says Jade. “But often those are the hardest pieces to let go of as they come with so many memories. “I think people are drawn to my eye and the way that I work with pre-loved items and blend them with the new. We believe that having a clear understanding of our client’s core values and design goals is key to creating a sustainable, functional and stylish space.


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Jade’s personal taste

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DESI GN PLUS

Colours: Stones and pebbles, but I also love primaries such as royal blue. Light greens, pinks and blues on fabrics that look like they have been washed in water colours are a favourite. Artists: Matisse, Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, Alexandria Coe – the list could go on. Interior designers: Tamsin Johnson, Beata Heuman and I also love Pierre Yovanovitch’s work at Quinta da Corte. At home: “I would say 80% of pieces are pre-loved although I don't think you would realise that when you see it all. It’s a blend of contemporary, with a focus on objects, texture, art, layering and pops of colour.

We work with our clients to help bring these to life. “I always look for pre-loved pieces first when curating spaces, as well as sustainably handmade pieces when budget allows. “I really loved redesigning the Bougain Villa at Morgado do Quintão, a wonderful 1920s house set against the backdrop of the Monchique hills. The building has a history and it is such a large and beautiful space. We are getting married there next year so I guess it feels that little bit extra special.” Jade’s best finds ever include a very beautiful marble table that now sits proudly in the main house of Morgado do Quintão. Then there’s a fun art-decostyle mirror, which has made its home chez Jade and Daniel, and a collection of small trinkets that together make a statement. It’s not unusual to see Jade walking the wild beaches of the west coast in the early mornings – as a yoga teacher and therapist, she is exercise driven when time and energy allows. Her days are packed – and always different. She might be creating mood boards, writing copy, planning designs, talking to clients, creating content for social media… the list goes on. Or she could be on-site, overseeing a project; she has built a network of professionals – photographers, builders, electricians and plumbers – or out and about sourcing pieces. Escolhido also offers a bespoke creative consultancy service helping businesses to grow through digital marketing, and working with them to produce creative content, which speaks for any remaining time in her hectic schedule. And her dream commission? “To design a full creative concept hotel that sits just a stone’s throw from the ocean and is tucked away in beautiful nature. I would love to be playful with the design, and of course, incorporate lots of pre-loved pieces.” Visit escolhido.co | instagram.com/escolhido.co?utm_medium=copy_link

Previous pages and above: Detail of the finished style created for Morgado do Quintão, showing the successful partnership of old and new, colour and texture. Top of page: Jade and Daniel, ready to hunt fresh treasures


FOOD PLUS

TA S T E S

g reat ...

Diplomatico FI N E FR EN C H FO O D A S IT I S M E A NT TO B E , W H ER E TH E FL AVO U R S M IX A N D M I N G LE A N D A LWAYS D ELI G HT. M A I S O U I – W E H AV E FO U N D A G EM

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ET'S TALK serious food, now that we can get out and dine like never before – well, not in the past year, that is. We have just discovered Diplomatico, which was taken over in October 2019 by French couple Valérie and Hervé who, while keeping the restaurant's original name, discarded the cantina-style menu and decor. They spent many a month planning how they’d do things their way, and got ready to launch in February last year. And we all know what happened then. But now, with open doors once again, a new life for Diplomatico has started, and those who are sampling Hervé’s cooking are returning for

more. Twice in the same week is praise indeed, especially when the same dish is ordered on the second occasion. That’s exactly what we did; the fish and seafood fricassé topped with a light-as-air pastry crust is amazing, every mouthful introducing a different taste and texture. And that’s what I am having next time, too, after a shared starter of melted Camembert with slivers of truffle, or the French snails, swimming in butter and garlic and parsley. Well that's me sorted. Now what about the others? One of the top of the pops, and surprisingly with the English clientelle, is the steak tartare that comes comes with

D I P L O M AT I C O , R u a 2 5 d e A b r i l 7, 8 1 2 5 - 5 0 7 Q u a r t e i r a / T :

FOOD Authentic French cooking with many ingredients from France

DECOR Laid back, inside and out, a great little lounge if you just want a drink

PRICE Starters from €4.50 Mains from €11.80; Puds average €4.50

916 293 149 / diplomatico - quar teira.com

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the most delicious chips, fried to a golden crispness (very different to the those that many restaurants tend to serve). Grilled sea bream with lightly sautéed vegetables, a glorious chicken served with a creamy, mushroomy Normand sauce, and an Argentine grain-fed ribeye all scores serious points. While many of the ingredients used are sourced locally, there are certain ‘specials’ brought over from different regions of France – snails, magret for the duck dish, Camembert and blue cheese and, of course, the bread - you won't find that anywhere else. Diplomatico is happy to host private gatherings and even small weddings – the intimate atmosphere lends itself well to the party spirit. The restaurant seats 25 inside and 55 outside, where you can sit beneath a wide sun brolly surrounded by a riot of colour – bougainvillea, jasmine, honeysuckle and hibiscus, intertwined and covering the courtyard walls. And if you are just popping in for a drink, there’s charming little lounge besides the bar inside, where you can sip a glass of carefully chosen wine and enjoy Hervé’s very French take on tapas. The prices, too, are a delight. A slow-cooked lamb shank with a honey sauce is just €18.80, a seasonal cheese platter €7.90 and a mouthwatering chocolate fondant with a runny centre and a scoop of vanilla ice cream is €5.20. This is my second home for the summer.

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‘Melted Camembert with slivers of truffle’


CREATIVITY PLUS

V E R Y O C C A S I O N A L LY, O N E C O M E S A C R O S S I M A G E S T H AT A R E S T R I K I N G , I N S P I R I N G , C O O L I N G A N D Q U I E T, R A I S I N G Q U E S T I O N S OF TIME AND PL ACE . J UAN GUL AN CAPTURES THE ESSENCE OF THE I N S I D E - O U T S I D E O A S I S T H AT I S A N E S C A P E F R O M T H E S U M M E R H E AT

Wo rd s:

C A R O LY N K A I N

c o u r t y a r d

A R T

GALERIA CÔRTE- REAL is signposted from Boliqueime, Ferreiras and Paderne O P E N : T H U R S D AY t o S U N D AY, 1 1 A M - 5 P M

T: 9 1 2 7 3 7 7 6 2 / c o r t e r e a l a r t e . c o m


Oil on canvas; cool shades of green, with soft light filtering through. Opposite page: Patio garden, 110x80cm. This page, above left: Arches, 170x129cm, right: Aspidistra, 110x80cm. Below, left: Table with lemons, 164x115cm

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Spain experienced strong Islamic influences during its occupation by the Moors who remained there until 1492; some 250 years after they had left Portugal. Unsurprisingly, in Spain the popularity of some Islamic architectural features has been retained. As seen in many of Galan’s paintings, he faithfully replicates the details that give every home its own distinctive style. Reflecting the daily life of its occupants, for reference before he begins a painting, he spends time observing the light, looking at clues behind disregarded corners and in unnoticed passageways. Having carefully selected the right time of day, his paintings make special use of shadows. Each one is accurately placed and shaped, adding perspective to the scene. The contrast he achieves between the sunlit spaces and the lurking shadows is referred to as chiaroscuro. First introduced to painting during the Renaissance period, it helps to create the illusion of three dimensions. By combining this technique, the geometry of light and loose but determined brushstrokes, Galan creates truly beautiful pictures. His intention, he explains is: “to move the viewer of my paintings to a place where they would like to be. If you are awake you can dream. As an artist I often dream and if I don’t, then I will stop being an artist.” His most recent courtyard art is on display at Galeria CôrteReal on the outskirts of the village of Paderne.

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behind a studded wooden door there is a shaded courtyard. Across the threshold, cool stone floors and lush foliage create the ambience of an indoor-outdoor room that is at the heart of many Andalucian homes. It is a scene depicted in paintings by celebrated Spanish artist Juan Gulan, who resides across the Spanish border in Ayamonte. Living in the traditional old town with its labyrinthine weave of streets, in the summer months he and his neighbours relish the serenity of their tranquil courtyards. Protected from the wind, the sun and dust, during the daytime they provide a source of natural light. At night the fresh dense air of evening sinks down into the courtyard helping to cool the rooms inside the house. Referred to in Spain and Latin America as a patio, this architectural feature is a direct descendent of the Ancient Roman atrium, which was located at the centre of most private homes and public buildings. Today in Morocco, a town house with a patio is known as a riad and in keeping with Muslim traditions, to ensure maximum privacy from the street, there is a single entrance door in a windowless plain wall. Inside a riad, the addition of a pond, pool or water feature is common, as are zelige mosaic tiles, elaborately carved wooden screens and ornate wrought iron grilles.

ALGARVE P L U S

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HE BREATHLESS air is searing hot but


Making the best

L E M O N M E R I N G U E P I E

T H I S A L L -T I M E FAV O U R I T E D E S S E R T I S A C L A S S I C T H AT D AT E S B A C K F O R A C E N T U R Y A N D I S AT T R I B U T E D T O A S W I S S B A K E R . C O N T E M P O R A R Y TA K E S H AV E L O T S O F VA R I AT I O N S , W I T H E V E R Y C H E F A D D I N G T H AT L I T T L E SOMETHING EXTRA IN INGREDIENTS OR TECHNIQUE

Wo rd s:

S TAC E Y B A R T L E T T

W

ITH SUMMER just around the

corner and the Algarve full of fruit trees, it seemed appropriate to choose a fruity creation when I was asked to review online baking tutorials. Lemon meringue pie was a staple dessert when I was growing up and I often used to help my grandmother make it, even if we did occasionally cheat with sachets of Bird’s Lemon Pie Filling, and Meringue Mix. I have not made a lemon meringue pie since those days and do hardly any baking at all now – apart from making the occasional fairy cakes with the kids –so this was a real challenge but one that promised to be tasty, if not easy! I chose not to use that original recipe dating back to the Swiss baker, and searched for more modern versions on the internet instead. I quickly realised that I would need extra equipment, and luckily was able to borrow an electric mixer, baking beads and a kitchen blow torch from a friend. You do need the right kit, including those wavy-edged baking tins.

1.

THE BEST LEMON MERINGUE PIE – PREPPY KITCHEN

With a relaxed style and a few mistakes along the way, this chef does not take the video too seriously. A good example of this is when he tries to separate the eggs and does a pretty poor job of it, despite having apparently been practising. While not precisely detailing how to make the pastry base – the same chef has a separate video entirely devoted to that topic – he does quickly run through the process and its interesting additional ingredient – vodka! The base created is thin and crispy and a delicious change from some of the soggy pastry bottoms in other recipes. Choosing to make an Italian meringue over a French one,

that stage is quite involved, with the sugar being heated to a very precise temperature. For me though, it is the base that makes this pie worth the effort – it lends a lovely additional texture to the finished result. youtube.com/ watch?v=lh54oX52ld0

My score: 7/10


RATINGS PLUS

4.

My score: 6/10

3.

MARY BERRY'S EASY LEMON MERINGUE PIE

Mary Berry is a British institution when it comes to baking and for anyone who is a bit nervous, or does not have the time to make pastry, her recipe with a biscuit crumb base is the perfect solution. Mary has simplified the whole process: rather than egg yolks, the lemon filling is made with condensed milk, which is easy to come by in Portugal; the meringue is spread on top and you make peaks with a knife (no piping required!), and there is no need for a blow torch after baking. With a more homemade look, the finished product is

reminiscent of desserts I had when I was kid. Condensed milk changes the colour, texture and flavour of the filling and it does not hold together as well as other recipes, so you do not get a neat slice of pie. On the plus side though, it is far easier to make, uses less equipment, and personally I prefer the biscuit base to pastry anyway, so it is definitely one that I would make again. youtube.com/ watch?v=QpaK3BRSgMA

My score: 5/10

FOOLPROOF LEMON MERINGUE PIE KITCHEN CONUNDRUMS WITH THOMAS JOSEPH

This video is longer than some of the others because the chef explains everything that he is doing in the greatest of detail. However, there is no explanation as to how to make the pastry case, so you would need either to buy a ready-made one or search out another tutorial online for the information. Explaining the science behind everything, Thomas adds ingredients such as corn flour and cream of tartare to the mixture.

When it comes to the eggs, he shows you how to separate the whites from the yolks and then how and why you need to combine the ingredients in a particular order. Adding the meringue with a spatula, the finished pie has a high dome of meringue, which is then browned with a blow torch – he does recommend serving the pie immediately to avoid the meringue from collapsing. Part technical instruction

and part cookery lesson, this video is particularly good for anyone who wants to know the specific benefits of each ingredient. The finished result is impressive with a huge quantity of fluffy meringue on top, but it does require more time, attention, and additional ingredients than some of the other recipes. youtube.com/ watch?v=q9EyekX0ZSw

My score: 6/10

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This YouTube video is only five minutes long, which instantly made me think that it was not going to be too difficult. Jamie starts with a quick plug for his cookware range, which is fair enough when the video is free to view, I guess! The video has sharp edits between stages, so you need to pause regularly to measure and combine ingredients – the process takes far longer than five minutes in reality.

Pastry is not my strong point, but making thre crust was straightforward, as was the meringue. Jamie makes it all seem easy with his signature relaxed and casual style – but the piping of the meringue across the pie was difficult for a novice like me. That said, I am sure that with a bit of practice I could get impressive results. Using the blow torch, he then toasts the top of the meringue to give the classic browned appearance and the finished pie looks professional, cuts well and tastes very lemony. My finished pie tasted the part, and I am sure that with more practice, it could look professional too! youtube.com/watch?v=-FF_ L54rvkk

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HOW TO MAKE LEMON MERINGUE PIE | JAMIE OLIVER


RATINGS PLUS

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5.

LEMON MERINGUE PIE – THE VEGAN CORNER

PHIL FANNING'S LEMON MERINGUE PIE WITH WHITE CHOCOLATE BISCUIT BASE

Phil, considered to be one of the great British chefs, starts by explaining that the quality of the pie is determined by the quality of the lemons and that the ones that you use should be unwaxed. Here in the Algarve, this does not present a problem as beautiful, natural lemons grow everywhere. Phil starts by making the lemon curd and explains that instead of using egg yolks to thicken it, he is going to blanch the lemons ten times in hot water and blend them instead. He also adds a pinch of saffron to enhance the yellow colour. The base for this pie is crushed biscuits, bound together with white chocolate, and white wine vinegar is added to the meringue mix to ensure that it holds together well. Once the meringue has been piped onto the individual-sized pie, and

baked, it is then blow torched to add additional colour to the topping. This video does look complicated initially, with the multiple blanching of the lemons, but the use of the biscuit base rather than pastry simplifies it. The finished result is an interesting take on a traditional lemon meringue pie. It is important to follow the chef’s advice and to get the balance of chocolate right, otherwise you could end up with something toecurlingly sweet. This is more of a special occasion dessert than a regular family staple and ‘Portuguese lemon, saffron and white chocolate pie’ sounds impressive enough to satisfy even the most discerning guest. youtube.com/ watch?v=UwPROXxDTDc

I am not vegan but when I saw this video I was intrigued because, after all, this is a dessert that usually requires a lot of eggs as well as other nonvegan ingredients. The video itself is a simple demonstration of the recipe steps, set to music with no narration. Below the video, the ingredients and instructions are listed so this feels more like an animated cookbook rather than a tutorial.

Traditional ingredients are substituted with obvious vegan alternatives such as dairy-free butter, but the interesting bit comes when creating the lemon filling and the meringue. Egg yolks are replaced by dairy-free milk and cream and corn flour and then yellow food colouring is added to give the filling its distinctive colour. In place of the usual high quantity of egg whites for the meringue, the liquid from a tin of chickpeas is whisked and then piped on top of the pie. This is then blow-torched and the finished result looks very much like a traditional meringue. I was pleasantly surprised with this one. For me, the lemon filling was a bit too solid, but I am sure I could reduce the amount of cornflour if I were to make it again. youtube.com/ watch?v=PTg8u8HWFus

My score: 5/10

My score: 7/10

I was taken straight back to my childhood work-ng on this article and my enjoyment of lemon meringue pie was certainly reignited – although I have over-indulged so it may be a while before I make another! Like most traditional desserts, this one has evolved over time and you can choose either a classic approach or one with a twist. In future, all the lemon meringue pies I make will have a biscuit base and I will combine that with my preferred filling and preferred meringue to make a combination that, at least to me, really is perfect.


A Landscaper for All Your Gardening Needs...

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Photos: www.azul-properties.com

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of the month

46 l ALGARVE P L U S

PROPERTY

EXCLUSIVE LISTING THIS COOL, CONTEMPOR ARY FOUR-BEDROOM VILL A , ONLY RECENTLY COMPLETED TO THE HIGHEST STANDARD, IN THE PE ACEFUL HILLS NE AR SANTA BÁRBAR A , OFFERS TRULY WONDERFUL VIEWS Four bedrooms, one of which is accessed externally – perfect for giving family or guests privacy  Four bathrooms, three ensuite, and all beautifully fitted

Huge open-plan living room with dining area – perfect for entertaining Fully-equipped spacious kitchen with breakfast bar

Large utility room

South-facing terraces with incredible views

Outside shower and barbecue

Fully-fenced plot

Automatic entrance gate

Air conditioning

Double glazing

Alarm

Internet connections

Underfloor heating by heat pump (pre-installation) Solar panels for hot water

 

Mains water

Energy: Class B

Plot size: 1,929m2

Construction: 225m2

Price: €890,000

Ref: PLA-1

T O V I E W : T: +3 5 1 2 8 9 3 0 1 2 9 4 / E : i n f o @ y e l l o w h o m e s . c o m / W : y e l l o w h o m e s . c o m

Today’s architects focus on delivering big light-filled spaces upon which you can impose your own personal taste in décor. This brand new single-storey property with its pergola-style patio is ready and waiting


PROPERTY PLUS

BEDROOMS

Four bedrooms, three en suite, fourth bathroom

GROUNDS

Beautiful spaces with views of the rolling hills

PAR KI N G

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Ample car-parking space

POOL

ALGARVE P L U S

Saltwater pool, 5x10m,outside shower

Vilamoura Office EN125 Benfarras Boliqueime 8100-068 Boliqueime T: +351 289 301 294 Tavira Office Rua Dr. Jose Padinha 178 8800-354 Tavira T: +351 281 320 281 AMI: 6232


toldolanda.com 914609517

Toldolanda

the awning specialist Association of British Riding Schools

established 1984

PINETREES CENTRO HÍPICO | RIDING CENTRE

Off road riding through the Ria Formosa Forest Training from beginners to experienced riders wishing to prepare for competition, horse ownership or exams Riding gear included in the prices.

Located between Vale de Lobo and Quinta do Lago Tel: + (351) 289 394 369 | + (351) 919 363 190 | riding@pinetrees.pt | www.pinetrees.pt | Bev Gibbons, BHS Int. Teaching Certi cate |

Pinetrees Riding


READS PLUS

FULLY

booked

Book of the month

By Jill Paton Walsh and Dorothy L Sayers Publisher: Hodder and Stoughton Genre: Historical/Murder Fiction I’m a huge fan of Dorothy L Sayers and have read all the Lord Peter Whimsey books in order. The first book in the series was published in 1923 and this book is a fabulous continuation of the series and the characters created by DLS. Jill Paton Walsh has captured the essence of Lord Peter perfectly and there is no perceptible difference between the writing styles. I loved this book because it’s the story of the people continuing their lives in England during the Second World War; not the soldiers, sailors and airmen, but the wives and sweethearts, the children, and the men deemed too old. A fabulous social commentary wrapped up in a murder mystery complete with German spies, lords, ladies, butlers and the odd housemaid. The Second World War was, in many aspects, a social leveller. Everyone had a ration book and every mother feared the air-raid siren. The descriptions of everyday life during the first 18 months of the War are so evocative that I can almost feel the excitement of the family as they have a roast chicken for Sunday lunch. Our grannies had a great deal of fortitude, which is reinforced by books such as this.

FIGHTER ACE: THE EXTRAORDINARY LIFE OF DOUGLAS BADER By Dilip Sarkar Publisher: Amberley Publishing Genre: Biography Douglas Bader was one of the most iconic figures in RAF history, due largely to the film Reach for the Sky. Bader’s rise within the RAF was fast, despite his tin legs. One can only imagine how the German pilots reacted to the appearance of 60 RAF fighters over London. This dealt a massive blow to the morale of Luftwaffe pilots who had been told that Fighter Command was down to its last 50 Spitfires. During the Battle of Britain, Bader was hero-worshipped by the Duxford pilots, particularly those in No. 242 Squadron. Others found him arrogant, elitist and prone to selfglorification. His insistence on leading the Wing at the head of No. 616 Squadron seems to have been a particular bone of contention. Also, he antagonised some ground crew with his pompous and snobbish attitude – certainly not the jovial character portrayed by Kenneth More! An excellent biography of a brave and inspirational man.

ALGARVE PLUS

A PRESUMPTION OF DEATH

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IT’S SITTING BY THE POOL TIME, OR PICNICKING O N T H E B E A C H . A PA R T F R O M A H E A LT H Y D O S E O F H I G H - FAC TO R S U N C R E A M A N D A B I T O F H E A D - C OV E R , YO U N E E D TO H AV E A B O O K O R K I N D L E AT T H E R E A D Y. C H E C K O U T D AW N ANNANDALE’ S SELECTION FOR J U NE, AND GE T R E A DY FO R H ER OW N B O O K , D U E O U T SO O N


READS PLUS

HIS NAME WAS WREN

By T M Logan Publisher: Bonnier Books Genre: Modern Thriller

By Rob Winters Publisher: Independently published Genre: Science Fiction

This is a fantastic thriller that makes you want to rush to see a private detective! Ed and Claire are surprised when their daughter, Abbie, brings home her new boyfriend for the first time and announces they are to be married in a matter of weeks. Ryan seems to be the perfect catch. Handsome, clever, ex-military, university educated, with a good job. It doesn’t take long for him to win over Claire and Abbie’s grandmother, Joyce. Ed, however, has a ‘bad feeling’ about Ryan. Unable to persuade his daughter to have a long engagement, Ed has a matter of weeks to prove he is right. At points, you are right behind Ed, as Ryan definitely seems too good to be true. The dynamics of a family are so well observed. I did sort of guess the ending but that didn’t detract from the excellent story.

During the blackout of 1944, in the small English town of Hurstwick, something mysterious obliterates the church spire and slices through the nearby woods. After a government cover-up, evacuee George Moss discovers the real cause of the destruction, becoming the first of a select few who, over the next 70 years, are entrusted with keeping the truth hidden. Years later, Max Cannon moves to Hurstwick and stumbles across the secret. Max triggers a chain of events that puts himself and his new friends in the middle of a deadly conflict. His Name was Wren is a first-contact science fiction story. A story of friendship, family, and struggle spanning seven decades and a thousand light-years. As a very unenthusiastic sci-fi reader, I really did enjoy this book and understand there is to be a sequel, which I will read willingly instead of with a groan!

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THE CATCH

LAST NIGHT By Mhairi McFarlane Publisher: Harper Collins Genre: Chick Lit This is almost not chick lit, as it’s a darker more thought-provoking book than the author’s previous work. It is still a romance and it is still funny, but it introduces some quite difficult themes about friendship, loyalty and loss. Briefly, because I do not want to give too much away, Eve, Ed, Susie and Justin have been close friends since school, despite going to different universities and in spite of the partners – long and short term – they have acquired and dumped over the years. Eve is the narrator and the story is seen from her point of view. She starts by telling us that something has happened that has fractured the circle. We suspect it is a death, but she doesn’t immediately tell us whose. What actually happens was, for me, a shock. The shock and its aftermath reveal fault lines in the relationship that are very distressing and make Eve review her life and her view of the nature of friendship and family loyalties. The characters and their dilemmas are enthralling. You care about what happens to them – even the ones who turn out to be deeply flawed. Refreshingly, no one is vilified. There is a villain but she/he is dealt with, not sympathetically, but with understanding and compassion. It’s sad and funny and okay in the end as all books of this genre should be.

THE ASYLUM By Karen Coles Publisher: Welbeck Publishing Genre: Historical Fiction Set in 1906, lunatic asylums were horrifying places. Maud is locked up in an asylum. They tell her she’s violent and mad and, for all she can recall, they might be right. Flashes of memory are meaningless and she instinctively despises and recoils from the doctor, so maybe she did do the things they said she’s done. A young and ambitious doctor chooses Maud as his patient and hypnotises her in an effort to ‘cure’ her of her insanity. It is while she is under hypnosis that we travel into her past and discover the painful truth. By the end, she shows signs that she is capable of being the person they have, for so long, said she is. That’s what makes this read so real. As strong and intelligent as Maud is, she almost breaks. I won’t spoil the story for you by saying more! This book left me feeling fortunate that, as a woman, I live in very different times. We no longer live in the days of women being incarcerated for having a child out of wedlock or being too feeble-minded to think about anything other than domestic chores. Women had to be strong, but Maud, ultimately, proved stronger than most.



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NEW LIFE PLUS

IN OUR NEXT CHAPTER FROM ALISON S H E L D R A K E ’ S J U S T- P U B L I S H E D A N T H O L O G Y, A N E W L I F E I N T H E ALGARVE , P ORTUGAL , B E LG I U M B O R N I R I N A A D R I A E N S E N TA L K S ABOUT A LIFEST YLE AND WORKST YLE FA R R E M O V E D F R O M H E R D AY S I N C O R P O R AT E B U S I N E S S

DISCOVERING

a different

ALGARVE P L U S

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WORLD

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GREW up in Antwerp, the second biggest city in Belgium. A born city girl, I used to love all the clubs, the cinema, museums, and shops, and there was always a new restaurant or café to discover. I lived in London for three years and had the time of my life there. My stint in London ended with the 2008 financial crisis; I was laid off together with half of my team and decided to go travelling to Central America for a few months. I came back to Belgium when my brother had his first baby and I wanted to spend more time with them. I found a new job; worked hard, bought an apartment, and climbed the corporate ladder. I was leading a very cushy life. And yet… I had a niggling feeling that something wasn’t right. I wasn’t enjoying my job, spent way too many hours working cooped up in an office, never seeing daylight in winter, and I was constantly tired. I was burnt out. OK, I thought, change jobs, it will get better. Things did improve for a little while, but I soon found myself on the same path. I was working too much and exhausted every day. At a time when I was struggling a lot in my job, I went on a yoga retreat in Italy. It was so good to be in the sun, practise


yoga every day, eat gorgeous food, and have the space to think. By the end of that experience, I decided that organising yoga retreats would be my dream job … but I just didn’t think it was possible. I figured I had missed the boat and I should just stick to the career I had. I parked the idea, and it wasn’t until years later that I picked it up again.

The learning curve On a magical winter holiday with a friend in Norway – I’d always wanted to see the northern lights – we started talking about going travelling together. Not long after that, I put in a request for a six-month sabbatical from work. I planned to travel for three months with two friends and then continue by myself for a further three months. One thing that travelling did for me was help me see lots of people living their lives in different, non-traditional ways. The banker who became a dive instructor. The women who worked in marketing and then opened their own hostel or yoga studio. I met so many digital nomads, people working

from their laptops who were free to travel anywhere. Then one day, I had an ‘aha moment’ while I was relaxing in my hammock. I realised I was putting way too much pressure on myself to figure out what I wanted to do with my life. Maybe I just needed to decide how to live it, and the rest would follow. Travelling for six months with only what fitted into a backpack, I knew I didn’t need so much stuff. I was spending my time outside every day, doing yoga and surfing, and I knew there was the key. I decided to do a yoga teacher training course, to deepen my own practice, intending to start organising yoga retreats while travelling the world. Picking up that old dream of mine again. I wasn’t really planning on teaching yoga myself, but then life doesn’t always happen according to plan… The very first yoga teacher training I did included a module about an introduction to Ayurveda, the sister science of yoga. Ayurveda teaches all about nutrition and lifestyle to support your dharma, your purpose in life. When we feel balanced, we have the energy to live in alignment with our deeper

Living in the sun most of the year has also meant that I don’t get the winter blues so much anymore. Even though it rains here too, now I can choose when I go out to walk the dogs, do my grocery shopping, or go surfing.


The right decision I loved the nature, the mix of people, the weather, and being close to the ocean. Finding a house to live in was really difficult, as long-term rentals are hard to come by in a touristy area like this. There are more Airbnbs than houses for long-term rent! And sadly, a lot of these Airbnbs remain empty in the winter just so they can be rented as holiday homes in the summer. I lived in a hostel in Lagos for a while where I taught yoga on the rooftop, worked on my blog, and went to the beach every day. Then I finally moved to Aljezur, a little town in the south-west of Portugal where I found a place through a friend of a friend. I had visited this town before, and I always liked the name. Maybe it was a gut feeling I had then that this would be the place I’d call home. There I was, the city girl, a city girl no more. I was living close to the Atlantic, near to a beautiful national park, in a pretty faraway place in a scarcely-populated valley, but I was enjoying it. I didn’t know many people, but I started feeling like myself again. I now teach yoga and meditation online, have several online courses on Ayurveda, organise yoga weekends and retreats in Belgium and Portugal, and do Ayurvedic massages. I also do one-on-one Ayurvedic coaching, working with women who are struggling with burnout, chronic fatigue, and other illnesses that modern medicine considers vague and mostly ‘in your head’. And I am also teaching other yoga teachers and ‘wellnesspreneurs’ how to build their online businesses.

Find out more about Irina’s work at foreversunday.org

FIND OUT MORE Alyson Sheldrake is an Algar ve b a s e d a r t i s t a n d a u t h o r. H e r anthology A New Life in the Algar ve, Portugal, is available from Amazon worldwide. For details of her other books, visit alysonsheldrake.com

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I work a lot, but I also truly enjoy what I do, I feel joy and purpose, and am more careful of my limits. I usually work on a bigger project in the morning, which is the time I can focus best. In the afternoon I might have a coaching session or class, catch up on admin, meet with a friend, or just go to the beach for a walk with the dogs. I’m earning less now than when I was working in the corporate world, but I have so much more time. I’m constantly learning new things and my lifestyle is way healthier without having to try so hard. My life before seemed healthy: I was practising yoga, exercising, and eating healthily. But trying to fit all that into my busy life was a stressor in itself, and I was beating myself up if I couldn’t keep up. No wonder it all came crashing down! Living in the sun most of the year has also meant that I don’t get the winter blues so much anymore. Even though it rains here too, now I can choose when I go out to walk the dogs, do my grocery shopping, or go surfing. There’s freedom in running my business – and my life. I can listen to my body and take a few days off when I want to. Of course, that sometimes means I’m working on a Sunday, but overall I’ve become better at living in sync with my body and its cycles. Living in Portugal, I feel I am making a difference for myself, my two dogs, and the clients I work with. My plan is to host more yoga and Ayurveda retreats in the future, and maybe one day that may include having my own retreat centre. I will continue to help many more burnt-out women on their healing path through my coaching, online classes, and programmes, in any way that is possible in this changing world. I really hope my story inspires others to think about how they’re living their lives. If I can make changes to my lifestyle, anyone can.

ALGARVE P L U S

purpose, and the key to balance is in what we put into our bodies and how we decide to spend our days. It just clicked for me. I had always been interested in the link between food and health, particularly mental health, and deep down I knew I could not longer spend my days working for something I didn’t believe in. My body had given me plenty of signals through the years, with symptoms getting worse the longer I ignored them. I had disregarded them all, thinking this was the only way. I realised if I didn’t want to end up burnt out again, I had to change. I wanted to learn more about Ayurveda, and did a practitioner course in India, that covered Ayurvedic nutrition, lifestyle, massages, and detoxing. I wasn’t quite sure how I would use all this new knowledge, but I realised I had to make a few decisions. I knew I wanted to live somewhere warm, where my body wouldn’t hurt so much. I wanted to be where I could be outside more, in nature. I had very much enjoyed living in Indonesia, Australia, and India, but I also didn’t want to be too far away from family and friends. I wanted to be able to surf. And that’s how I ended up in Portugal.

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NEW LIFE PLUS


ICONS PLUS

THE LAST OF THIS SEASON’S WILD ORCHIDS ARE COMING INTO FLOWER H E R E N OW, W H I L E I N PA R T S O F SOUTHERN EUROPE, NORTH AFRICA

Of mice, men and

AND THE MIDDLE EAST SOME SPECIES A R E T H R E AT E N E D W I T H E X T I N C T I O N AS TUBERS ARE DUG UP TO PRODUCE C U R E S F O R E V E R Y D AY C O M P L A I N T S

A P H R O D I S I A C S Wo rd s:

C A R O LY N K A I N

T Yes, a flower can be an icon. This page: Ophrys Tenthredinifera. Opposite Page, top, left to right: Orchis Italica; Anacamptis Morio; bottom, centre: Serapia Pariflora

HE ANCESTRY of orchids goes back to

ancient Greece when the word orchis – to describe the plant’s tuber – meant testicle. This was at a time when plants were used to cure parts of the body that they resembled. A connection was made between the root system of an orchid and a suitable treatment to help an impotent man. As speculation progressed, the presence of an orchid was attributed to copulating animals and the point where semen had accidentally fallen on the ground. Another theory hypothesised that the root of an orchid could determine the sex of a man’s off-spring. Chauvinism, being particularly prevalent at the time, it was alleged that men who ate whole new tubers would produce healthy male children. Eating shrivelled old tubers resulted in girls!

W i l d Wo o r crdhs: i dBs R …I AwNi l R d EcDlM aO im NsD?

By the 17th century, herbalists went one step further claiming that “fat firm tubers should be eaten with discretion as they provoke exceeding". Today, for most people, it sounds like far-fetched folklore but certain beliefs continue to exist. Google the words ‘impotence – cure – orchid-roots’ and there are plenty of advertisements claiming that they can prevent nightfall and improve a man’s sexual drive and stamina. Even more remarkably it is said that salep – made from orchid tubers – can improve oligospermia (low sperm count) and oligozoospermia (sperm motility). Salep is an Arabic word meaning ‘testicles of the fox’ and refers to a drink made from pulverised orchid tubers, sugar, ground cinnamon, ginger and milk. Particularly enjoyed in Turkey and Greece,


Proof, or no proof Despite the continuing destruction of orchids, it is unclear whether they have any scientifically proven medicinal properties. A study in Iran involving mice injected with salep, found their testosterone levels and sperm production increased. But from mice to men requires a huge leap of faith. Another team of scientists claimed to have found a novel aphrodisiac and went onto produce a drug from the flowers of an orchid, Vanda Tessellatta. This epiphytic variety with aerial roots increased the level of nitric oxide in human blood but experiments did not prove its efficacy in combating penile dysfunction.

PORTUGUESE WILD ORCHIDS It’s a long list, but includes: Pyramidal orchid (Ancamptis Pyramidalis) 

Lax-flowered orchid (Orchis Laxiflora) 

Green-winged orchid Orchis Morio) 

Naked man orchid (Orchis Italica) 

Milky orchid (Orchis Lactea) 

Bumble-bee orchid (Ophrys Bombyliflora) 

Mirror of Venus (Ophrys Speculum) 

Sawfly orchid (Ophrys Tentheredinifera) 

Yellow-bee orchid (Ophrys Lutea) 

Long-lipped serapia (Serapias Vomeracea) 

Heart-flowered serapia (Serapias Cordigera) 

Small-flowered serapia (Serapias Parviflora) 

Tongue orchid (Serapia Lingua) 

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Despite the lack of concrete evidence, the sale of salep powder has increased. This reflects an international trend towards organic foodstuffs and alternative medicines. Salep proudly proclaims it is made from 35 varieties of authentic orchids and that as many as 4,000 tubers have been used to manufacture a single kilo of powder. What is not made clear is that some of the orchids are grown commercially but others are harvested from the wild. Eight percent of all plants belong to the Orchidaceae family, making it one of the largest plant groups in the world. Of 25,000 species, all varieties are shown on the CITES list, Appendix I & II (cites.org) making many of them as endangered as African elephants and gorillas. The Algarve is home to a number of distinctive groups. The small Ophrys orchids have flowers that resemble bees and flies. They have beautiful intricate markings and easily hybridize with each other resulting in variable forms that are hardier than some other wild orchids. This ability for orchids to cross pollinate also explains why there are so many cultivated varieties. Seen in early spring in the Algarve’s damper places, Serapias orchids look like miniature gladiolus with several flowers growing from a single stem. More spectacular Orchis Italica has a cluster of pale pink flowers, each one resembling a tiny monkey. Its close relative, Orchis Lutea has clusters of small white flowers with long fine pointed sepals. These give the plant an overall appearance of being covered in whiskers. I’m not sure – but maybe this orchid has been utilised by men who can’t grow beards.

ALGARVE P L U S

where it is believed to promote good health and fertility, it is often sold by street vendors. Over the years its popularity has resulted in the virtual extinction of some wild orchids in the Pindus Mountains. Once the tubers are destroyed, orchids have difficulty in reproducing. Their microscopic seeds that appear like dust contain no food reserves. A seedling only forms when it is infected by a fungus that supplies it with sugar and other nutrients. In the Algarve during the month of June, Pyramidal, Lax-Flowered and Green-Winged orchids come into bloom as part of their reproductive cycle, but digging up the tubers or picking the flowers is highly detrimental. When it comes to curing the flagging sex life of a local man, Viagra is an environmentally preferable option!

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Google the words ‘impotence cure’ > ‘orchid-roots’ and there are plenty of advertisements claiming that they can prevent nightfall and improve a man’s sexual drive and stamina.


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ANSWERS PLUS

we are in the business of meeting their needs. We organise everything, including airport collection, car hire, food packages etc.

A L G A R V E H O L I D AY L E T S . C O M I S E X T E N D I N G I T S N E T W O R K W I T H O P E R AT I O N S I N T H E G O L D E N T R I A N G L E E X PA N D I N G TO M E E T T H E E V E R I N C R E A S I N G D E M A N D F O R H I G H - Q U A L I T Y R E N TA L S

14 Do you manage properties if owners live elsewhere? Our management service includes cleaning, pool and garden maintenance plus much more. Even have the car fuelled and ready for an owner’s arrival.

1 How long have you been operating here? 18 years, and now, in response to customer requests, we are expanding our activities in the Golden Triangle area, with particular focus on the rental market.

15 Why should an owner choose you for management services? We offer a fully-tailored package that dovetails with their use of the property. Our services are automated so owners are constantly updated with details of property inspections, bill payments etc.

2 Who is involved? Mary and Philip Mangan. Jim van Hek, who is well known in the Algarve’s exclusive service industry, has joined us on a consultancy basis. 3 Where are you based? Our head office is in the team is mobile, having the ability to leverage technology wherever they are. This means they are able to visit properties, owners, guests and at the same time able to manage the cleaning and maintenance teams.. 4 Do you have a background in hospitality? Yes, Mary’s family business is centred around hospitality and will celebrate its 60th year in business in 2022. 5 Why the Algarve? We came here first as tourists, and then bought a holiday home in Vale do Lobo in 1990, which we rented out.

6 Which areas do you cover? From Quinta do Lago to Vila do Bispo. 7 Does the Golden Triangle have the greatest appeal to visitors? This area is very popular and a key feature is that guests return year on year. 8 What makes it special? Its luxury resorts, fine golf courses and some of the best amenities available. The proximity to Faro Airport is an additional selling point. 9 Now that restrictions are lifting, when do you see the season getting into full swing? Based on current levels of bookings, we expect to increase rental returns for our owners from now on. 10 From which country do you think most visitors to the Algarve will come this year? More Portuguese will stay in Portugal and visit the Algarve. The UK will also bring in good numbers. . 11 What added services do you offer? Our guests have many requirements and

16 Why should a property owner choose you for rentals? We are focused on income generation and rental returns. 17 Where do you promote your properties? We have a large distribution network including the main holiday portals and multiple-language websites.. 18 Is it complicated to get a rental licence (AL)? The process is very straightforward. We offer a full AL setup service. 19 What about reporting guest details to the relevant authorities? Our systems send passport information electronically. 20 How does one set about getting a property on your books for rental? Just email or call Mary.

A L G A R V E H O L I D AY L E T S / R u a d o B a r r a n c o , P r a i a d o C a r v o e i r o , 8 4 0 0 - 5 0 8 L a g o a T: 2 8 2 3 5 6 5 9 2 / W: a l g a r ve h o l i d ay l e t s . c o m

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questions...

13 Can you recommend/supply a wonderful chef? Of course.

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12 What about days out – can you arrange those, too? Absolutely, especially to showcase areas that our guests may not have visited before.


NIGEL MOORE MUSEUM 2 W H E R E The gated entrance to the Museum, São Brás W H E N November 2019 W H AT ’ S S P E C I A L The lighting from the late, low sun streaming through the open gate . A DV I C E TO OT H E R S Always look around for lighting opportunities – especially early morning or late evening. C A M E R A Huawei P20 Lite Smartphone

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T h i s m o n t h , L a r s H i n s e n h o f e n ( p o r t u g a l - l o c a t i o n . c o m) h a d t h e t o u g h j o b o f w a d i n g t h r o u g h 2 6 s u b m i s s i o n s i n t h e A l g a r v e P h o t o g r a p h e r s G r o u p ’s l a t e s t s h o w, ‘ O p e n D o o r s ’, o n l i n e a t a l g a r v e p h o t o g r a p h e r s g r o u p . o r g /o p e n - d o o r s / H e re are his four favourites

I N T E R P R E TAT I O N S HUBERT FLASCH OPEN LONG TERM W H E R E Rio Tinto Spain mining operation formed 1873 W H E N May 2018 W H AT ’ S S P E C I A L A sense of morbid charm. A DV I C E TO OT H E R S Every subject has a story to be told. We need to use our skills to tell it. C A M E R A Lumix FZ 1000

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LARS’S VIEW “The interesting layout of vehicle and landscape, reduced to black and white, plus all details to discover inside the van once you zoom in, arouse the viewer´s curiosity. I like that.”

l ALGARVE P L U S

A L A D D I N ’ S C AV E W H E R E Chefchaouen, Morocco W H E N May 2015 W H AT ’ S S P E C I A L How the colours stand out in the darkness... just magic! A DV I C E TO OT H E R S Open doors, even if it's dark behind, and be patient. In my case, it's been only nice surprises... C A M E R A Nikon D200

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ON YER BIKE M OV E I T, YO U ’ R E L I V I N G I N A N E-WORLD WHERE TECHNOLOGY AIMS TO MAKES LIFE E ASIER A N D E V E RY T H I N G FA S T E R . A D D TH E B I G ‘ E’ TO TH E B I C YC LE A N D YO U ’ R E O N A N OTH ER P L A N E T WH ER E YO U C A N M OV E W I T H L E S S E F F O R T. P E DA L . . . A N D C E L E B R AT E

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'M IN LOVE with my new electric bike. She is big but so stylish, and she gets me places like no bike has before. Okay, that’s enough of that. I just wanted to express the magical way that ebikes iron out hills, abolish headwinds and generally make cycling easy. Ebikes are a new way of cycling that amplifies muscle power to make it much more of a practical alternative to the car for local transport. In Europe and the UK, ebikes are designed to be used safely wherever regular bicycles go. To prevent unsafe speeds, the motors do not provide extra boost above 25kph (15mph), which is a good speed for a cyclist. To ensure the rider gets the health benefits, the motor does not work unless the pedals are being pushed round. The power delivered to the wheels can be adjusted from a battery-saving, range-maximising light push to a full-on surge that can surprise motorists waiting with you at the lights. Discovering how to set the power level to get the boost you like without emptying the battery before you get home is a big part of learning the art of ebiking (if that is a word).

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CH R I S PAR TR I DG E

So what is it? Ebikes come in all shapes and sizes – the category is still in the evolutionary soup phase where designers are looking for the optimal combinations of motor position and frame structure. The basic ebike is a hybrid, a sort of combination of road bike and mountain bike that will handle city streets and dirt trails with equal ease. ‘Step-through’ frames without a crossbar are popular with commuters and shoppers who stop frequently, and those who no longer have the teenage flexibility to swing their leg gracefully over the rear wheel when mounting (my new ebike is a step-through). Folding ebikes are brilliant for commuters and people who want to carry their bikes in the boot of the car or store them in the cupboard under the stairs. And for hipsters, high-tech ebikes combine stunning designs with advanced materials such as superlightweight carbon fibre. The cost, however, is eyewatering. There is equal variety in the placement of the motor, which can be located in the front hub, at the bottom of the frame or in the rear hub. The best position for the motor is at the bottom of the

An ebike takes the huff and puff away, and there are kits available to convert your existing bike

The power delivered to the wheels can be adjusted from a battery-saving, range-maximising light push, to a full-on surge that can surprise motorists waiting with you at the lights.

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TECHNO PLUS

Right: In the pink, girly version of the Bromptom ebike. Far right: Highly rated – the Brompton folds up for storage, or when you get to where you're going. Below: Fischer's goodlooking step-through Cita has seven gears

Battery position

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frame between the pedals. Weight distribution is optimal and because the motor drives the wheel through the gear train it is working at its most efficient level at all times. Hub drives are popular because they tend to be cheaper and can be easily retrofitted to existing bikes, so if you have an expensive bike that you love, you can upgrade. It is even easier and cheaper to fit a friction motor that drives a wheel pressed against one of the tyres, but the power is limited and can cause tyre damage.

There is even more diversity over the position of the battery. The most popular position is in front of the saddle post, which is neat but can obstruct the legs. Many bikes place the battery on the pannier carrier and some are mounted on the front forks which makes them easy to remove but can affect the handling a bit. Some high-design bikes hide the battery in the frame itself which looks fantastic but can make removal for charging a bit of a pain. Prices range from steepish to abominable, but most of the variation is in the size of the battery, so you get what you pay for. You can buy a basic ebike on eBay for as little as (€750) but the range tends to be limited. That’s fine if all you want to do is go to the beach and back, but if you have ambitions to explore the hills you may want to invest in a beefier battery.

At a glance

FO L D E R

S T E P -T H R O U G H

SPORT BIKE

Fischer Cita A great all-rounder for someone who wants to get to the beach or tour the hills, or just go shopping, the Fischer Cita features a framemounted motor, panniermounted battery and seven gears. Pro: Good range; excellent value Con: On the heavy side. €1,740 at beelectric.pt

C o n w ay E - R i d e r Extreme The go-anywhere bike for trail riders, the E-Rider Extreme combines farout styling with sprung suspension, powerful 1000W motor, big 695kWh battery and lots of gears for an exciting ride with effortless uphill performance. Pro: Lots of power and range; fun Con: Very expensive €7,875 at martinsebike.com

B r o m p t o n e b i ke The Brompton is the best folding bike in the universe and the fact that I have owned a few does not bias me in any way. And the new electric version makes it even better. The motor is housed in the front hub and the battery clips onto the front of the frame, so it does not affect handling too much but can be easily removed so it is easy to carry the bike in one hand and the battery in the other when you reach your destination. Pro: An ebike you can put in the back of a car or cab. Con: Limited range and a bit pricey. €2,995 at bikepop.pt

CO N V E R S I O N KIT Sw y t c h Got a bike you like, except you do all the work? The Britishdesigned Swytch kit might enable you to upgrade. You measure your wheel size, order online and they make a motorised wheel specially for you and ship it with the handlebar-mounted battery and all the other stuff. Assembly is as simple as could be and you can even get a Swytch engineeer to check your handiwork by video call. Swytch ships kits to Portugal but the kit is small enough to make it feasible to take it with you on the plane. £999 at swytchbike.com but discounts available if you pre-order and wait for the next batch.


MADE IN

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THE VERY BEST IN RANGE COOKING

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WHERE NOW PLUS

70s

MIKHAIL BARYSHNIKOV

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During the 1970s and 1980s, Mikhail Baryshnikov was the most successful ballet dancer in the world. Described by one critic as “the most perfect dancer I have ever seen”, he had made his name dancing with the Kirov Ballet in what was then the Soviet Union. Born in Riga in Latvia, Mikhail studied ballet from an early age, at first locally, then later in Leningrad (now St Petersburg). He became frustrated with the traditional approach of the Soviet ballet companies and wanted to work with the more innovative choreographers in the West; when touring with the Bolshoi in Canada in 1974, he defected and requested asylum. He danced for a while with the National Ballet of Canada, then with the American Ballet Theatre, then with the New York City Ballet under the legendary Balanchine. In 1980, he became Artistic Director of the American Ballet Theatre while continuing to dance with them, and in 2005 he launched the Baryshnikov Arts Center in New York City. Mikhail was involved in romantic relationships with actresses Jessica Lange and Tuesday Weld, and in 2006 married ballerina Lisa Rinehart with whom he has three children. Although he had become an American citizen, in 2017 the independent Republic of Latvia also granted him Latvian citizenship for ‘extraordinary merit’. However, he says that he likes to think of himself as a man of the world and although based in New York he says that he feels “totally Parisian” when in Paris!

W H AT E V E R H A P P E N E D T O … H E R E ’ S A G R E AT M I X E D B A G . T H E S O N O F A B E AT L E , T H E R U S S I A N B A L L E T D A N C E R W H O D E F E C T E D T O T H E W E S T, T H E M A N H E L D H O S TA G E I N L E B A N O N FOR YEARS, AND THE BRITISH ARMY OF THE RHINE

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JILL ECKERSLEY

JULIAN LENNON

60s

Back in 1963, John Charles Julian Lennon was the most famous baby in England. As the son of a Beatle, his existence had been hidden away with the idea that it would damage the group’s popularity if it was known that John Lennon was a married man and a father. Of course, the truth came out, The Beatles soared to international superstardom in any case, and young Julian, just five years old when his parents divorced, had an unsettled childhood. Although he was the inspiration for some of the Beatles’ most famous songs – from Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds to Hey Jude – he has spoken about his difficult relationship with his legendary dad, which did improve as he grew up. Julian clearly inherited some of his father’s musical talent and has released successful records, as well as becoming an accomplished photographer and filmmaker. He is based in Los Angeles as is his philanthropic organisation, The White Feather Foundation, which raises money for both humanitarian and environmental causes. The Foundation has supported projects across the world from Australia to the Amazon, with a particular focus on the advancement of women. Julian established the Cynthia Lennon Scholarship for Girls in honour of his late mother, who died in 2015, and also produced a film about Native American women. He is said to be close to his half-brother Sean, as well as Paul McCartney.


80s

BRITISH SOLDIERS DUG-IN BY THE SIDE OF A ROAD IN WEST GERMANY, 1979. BRITISH ARMY MUSEUM.

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BAOR, as it soon became known, was the military government of the British Zone of Germany in 1945, replacing the British Liberation Army at the end of the Second World War. It was responsible for administration in conjunction with the post-war West German Government, and helped in the reconstruction of the country. In the 1950s, the Cold War and the perceived threat of an invasion by the countries of the rival Warsaw Pact, meant that BAOR soon became a defence force and was armed with both conventional and nuclear weapons. It was also ‘home’ to some 80,000 British soldiers in the mid-50s, including not only National Servicemen but also career soldiers and their families. Garrisons in north-western Germany included housing estates, NAAFI shops, cinemas, schools and churches. Radio and TV stations broadcasted not only from ‘home’ but from studios in Cologne with Two Way Family Favourites a highlight of Sunday lunchtimes. The number of Army personnel was reduced to 53,000 in the late ‘60s, and in 1994 BAOR became known as British Forces Germany. In 2010, then-Prime Minister David Cameron took the decision to begin phasing out the Army bases, with a mixed reaction from the German Government, which calculated that the British Forces contributed about €1.3 billion to the German economy. The last base, Catterick Barracks in Bielefeld, Westphalia, was handed back to the German authorities with due ceremony in February 2020, with remaining Army personnel being repatriated to the Salisbury area, UK. Truly, the end of an era.

ALGARVE P L U S

40s

THE BRITISH ARMY OF THE RHINE

The son of a policeman, Terry Waite had worked all over the world, and especially in developing countries, when he became a Church of England envoy in the 1980s under the then Archbishop of Canterbury, Robert Runcie. He had successfully negotiated for the release of Westerners taken hostage by extremists in Iran and Libya when he was sent to Lebanon in 1987, to negotiate the release of four more hostages including journalist John McCarthy, who had been kidnapped by the Islamic jihad group. Waite made contact with the kidnappers but was then taken hostage himself and held for more than four years. Much of his time was spent in solitary confinement, chained to a wall and only able to sleep on the floor of a cell where there was no natural light. On his release in 1991, he wrote a best-selling book, Taken on Trust, about his experiences, followed by several more books. Since then, he has continued his humanitarian and charity work in Britain and abroad, from organising concerts in prisons to supporting the families of hostages, and working for YCare International. When asked for the secret of survival, he mentions focusing on the positive and refusing to give in to selfpity, whatever the circumstances. Of the pandemic, he says it has showed us that “we are all vulnerable, which reminds us of our common humanity”.

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TERRY WAITE


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EXPAT INFO PLUS

SHOULD YOU TRANSFER YOUR UK PENSION OVERSEAS? T R A N S F E R R I N G T O A Q R O P S C A N O F F E R TA X E F F I C I E N C Y, E S TAT E P L A N N I N G F L E X I B I L I T Y A N D C U R R E N C Y B E N E F I T S FO R B R ITO N S L I V I N G I N P O RT U G A L , B U T I S IT R I G H T FO R YO U ? DA N H E N D E R S O N , PA R T N E R , B L E V I N S F R A N K S A DV I S E S

Diversification and investment choice QROPS usually offer more options than UK pensions for how your money is invested and are not as overexposed to UK assets. You can choose a flexible plan across a wide range of funds to suit your circumstances, objectives, timeline and risk appetite. As the value of any investment can go down as well as up, this introduces an element of risk to your retirement funds that is absent from a guaranteed annuity. However, a well-diversified investment approach can manage and minimise risk. E s t a t e p l a n n i n g f l e x i b i l i t y While most UK pensions are payable only to your spouse on death, QROPS offers the option to include other heirs. So rather than dying with you or your spouse, your pension wealth could pass to any named beneficiary. QROPS may also offer some protection from UK inheritance tax when passing pension assets to non-UK resident heirs, although they may still be subject to local succession taxes. M u l t i - c u r r e n c y o p t i o n s UK pensions pay out only in sterling, but some QROPS allow you to invest funds and make withdrawals in more than one currency. This is a major advantage for British expatriates in Portugal, as it removes currency conversion costs and reduces dependence on pound/euro exchange rates.

Ta x i m p l i c a t i o n s Currently, EU residents can transfer UK pensions into an EU/EEA-based QROPS tax-free. However, transfers to QROPS outside the bloc trigger a 25% UK ‘overseas transfer charge’. With no Portuguese schemes on the list of approved QROPS, you would need to choose a scheme in another EU/ EEA country to avoid penalties. In a QROPS, funds are sheltered from UK taxes and do not count towards your lifetime pension allowance. How QROPS are taxed in Portugal Portuguese residents accessing either QROPS or UK pension income in 2021 face income tax rates ranging from 14.5% to 48%, unless you hold non-habitual residence (NHR) status. Under NHR, QROPS/UK pensions are instead taxed at a flat rate of 10% for the first decade in Portugal. If you qualified for NHR before the rules changed in April 2020, you can continue receiving tax-free QROPS and foreign pension income for the remainder of your ten-year NHR period. If you do not have NHR status, you could find alternative tax-efficient options for reinvesting pension funds as a Portugal resident. Regulated, tailored advice is crucial Overseas pension transfers are complex – and a target for pension scams. Do not underestimate the value of regulated advice. Explore your full range of options to establish the most suitable pension solution for your particular circumstances. In any case, you will need specialist guidance to find a suitable product, navigate the cross-border tax issues, and ultimately secure your long-term financial security in this ever-changing pensions landscape. Tax rates, scope and reliefs may change. Any statements concerning taxation are based upon our understanding of current taxation laws and practices, which are subject to change. Tax information has been summarised; individuals should seek personalised advice.

T: 2 8 9 3 5 0 1 5 0 / E : p o r t u g a l @ b l e v i n s f r a n k s . c o m / W : b l e v i n s f r a n k s . c o m

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F l e x i b l e a c c e s s UK pensions can be restrictive, while QROPS allow you to take as much cash or income as you like, when you want. You could, for example, draw a higher income in early retirement when you are most active and reduce it in later years. Or you could take a lump sum and preserve the rest for a rainy day or to pass on to your heirs. This freedom also brings more potential to exhaust your funds, unlike a UK annuity or ‘final salary’ pension, which provides a guaranteed income for life.

F r e e d o m f r o m U K r u l e … t o a p o i n t Funds in a QROPS are no longer governed by UK pension legislation, so are generally protected from future changes to UK rules. Beware, however, that you could still be subject to UK legislation – and taxation – if you move outside the EEA within five UK tax years of the transfer date. This could expose your pension to transfer penalties of up to 55%.

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expatriates today is to transfer to a Qualifying Recognised Overseas Pension Scheme (QROPS). Designed to help retirees simplify their affairs, QROPS is a label for foreign pension schemes that meet HMRC’s strict rules to receive UK transfers. Let's look at the pros and cons.

ALGARVE P L U S

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NE OF the UK pension options for British


GO MOVES

A family-run business based in the Algarve. Full/part house removals with or without pack and wrap service. Collection and delivery service from any shop in the Algarve to your house. No job is too big or small. We cover the Algarve, Portugal, Spain, France and may consider other countries. enquiries@gomoves.eu 913 318 990 | 913 206 015

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Here to help If you need to move money to or from Portugal we’ll help you save time and money with: Excellent exchange rates No transfer fees Personal account management Flexible transfer options Expert insights

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© Currencies Direct Ltd, One Canada Square, Canary Wharf, London E14 5AA, United Kingdom. Registered in England & Wales, No.: 03041197. Currencies Direct Ltd is

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authorised by the Financial Conduct Authority as an Electronic Money Institution under the Electronic Money Regulations 2011. Our FCA Firm Reference number is 900669. Our EU services are provided by Currencies Direct Spain. © Currencies Direct Spain, E.D.E., S.L., Avenida del Mediterráneo, 341, 04638 Mojácar, Almería, Spain. Registered in the Commercial Registry of Almería under the Spanish tax ID number B04897930. Currencies Direct Spain, E.D.E., S.L. is authorised by the Bank of Spain as an Electronic Money Institution under Law 21/2011 of 26 July and Royal Decree 778/2012 of 4 May. Our registration number with the Bank of Spain is 6716.

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ADVICE PLUS

YOUR money R I C A R D O C H AV E S O F A L L F I N A N C E M AT T E R S I S O N T H E P L U S TE A M A N D H ER E TO A N SWER YO U R Q U ESTI O N S O N TH E I S S U ES T H AT A F F E C T Y O U R L I F E S T Y L E I N T H E A L G A R V E . T H I S M O N T H , W O R K I N G F R O M H O M E A N D TA X AT I O N F E AT U R E

My wife and I have a number of ISAs in the UK. Now that we are living here as NHR, what is the most sensible thing to do with them in terms of realising the best return? Should we just cash them in and transfer the money here? At one time they were a really good savings investment. Unlike the income from a pension (apart from the 25% tax-free cash), withdrawals from an ISA do not count as taxable income. On the other hand, you do not receive tax relief on your payments into an ISA. In other words, ISA contributions come from taxed income, but withdrawals are tax-free, while pension contributions effectively come from untaxed income, but withdrawals may be taxed. As you are NHR, you should consider that most of the benefits from this special tax status arise when the income is from a foreign source. In fact, a major feature of the NHR regime lies in its interaction with the doubletaxation agreements (DTAs) signed by Portugal. Your ISA should not taxed in Portugal, but a product from a Portuguese source could be.

If I continue working from home by phone, email and Zoom etc, what expenses can I charge to tax? And what about VAT? If you or your business is registered for VAT, you should be able to deduct the cost and the VAT on expenses that are needed to obtain the business income as long as they are invoiced to NIF of the business. If you are a sole trader working from home, you cannot deduct the full cost and VAT of the electricity bill for instance, only a percentage. If you have a limited company the rules are similar, but as the house is in your name, you need to rent part of it to the company, or sign a contract to allow the company to use a share of the house. In this way, those costs can be used by the business, providing the necessary criteria are met.

Email your finance questions for Ricardo to martin@algar veplusmagazine.com for inclusion in the f ir st available is sue of A lgar ve P LU S . To c o n s u l t d i r e c t l y w i t h R i c a r d o C h a v e s , e m a i l r i c a r d o @ a l l f i n a n c e . p t

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If you are a sole trader here, running a small business (marketing and PR), can one just stay that way? Are there tax advantages? Being a sole trader is the simplest and quickest route to be in business. There are incentives to register as a sole trader, namely there is a 12-month exemption for Social Security contributions when you register for the first time. Also, if you choose to be taxed on the simplified regime (your tax will be assessed on a percentage of your gross income), there are discounts applicable in the first two years, in case you have no other active income (pension or salary). When your business grows, you need to speak with an accountant to find out if other alternatives can be more tax efficient. As a sole trader, you are taxed under progressive tax rates – the more you earn the more tax you pay – but as a company, the corporate tax rate is fixed. The same applies to social security contributions which are assessed based on your income or profit. Please also remember that a company and you are two distinct entities and your liability can be limited to the share capital, which does not happen as a sole trader. Seek advice from your accountant, before the tax year ends or before your Social Security liability increases.

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As I’m not qualified to offer any pension or investment advice, I recommend that you explore your tax efficient investment options through a specialist.

ALGARVE P L U S

Do I need a licence to rent out rooms out in my home if I am actually living there and, so to speak, playing host. What’s the best way to deal with this? Under Portuguese law, to be able to advertise your property or even just some of the rooms for rentals, you need to have a rental licence – one of the conditions is that you are registered as a sole trader with the tax office. The tax to pay (IRS – Personal Income Tax) is very little – 8.75% of your income for non-residents – but the fines for non-compliance with this are very high. You must use the Alojamento Local (Local Lodging Licence) number and include it in your Airbnb, Home Away, Holiday Lettings and any other portals or marketing material you use to advertise your rentals. As the property is located in Portugal, the income needs to be declared here, despite your country of residency for tax purposes. There are various rules, including invoicing up to five days after the rental, reporting monthly invoicing to the tax authorities, reporting guest details including check in and check out dates to SEF. You should use an accountant to make sure you are fully compliant.



EXC HANGE PLUS

MOVING FORWARD A S B U S I N E S S E S A N D T R AV E L REOPEN , COMING OUT OF THE T H I R D WAV E O F T H E PA N D E M I C , W H AT E F F E C T W I L L T H I S H AV E O N E U R O E X C H A N G E R AT E S ? W E A S K E D J OS E ALM E I DA FO R H I S VI E WS

W i l l e u r o exc h a n g e r a t e s g o u p? As more of Europe opens in the coming months, it’s likely we’ll see the euro trending higher through the summer on the prospect of economic activity normalising. Recent EUR data points to the Eurozone recovering in the second quarter of 2021 and this is likely to support the single currency in the short-term, particularly as tourists hope to return over the summer, which could provide European economies with a boost. However, the EU still lags behind other countries in its vaccine rollout so we might see EUR exchange rates struggle to match the strength of summer 2020. A key factor in the euro’s strength this summer will be the European Central Bank’s (ECB) outlook and policy. EUR exchange rates may struggle if the ECB is reluctant to begin stopping its pandemic emergency purchase programme (PEPP). Looking further ahead, it’s harder to predict how the euro will move because of the uncertainty posed by variants of the coronavirus that have emerged around the world. Stronger euro exchange rates will help you get more for your money if you’re sending money to the UK from Portugal, but if you’re transferring pounds into euros, it could be negative for your transfer.

S e r v i c e s t o m a ke yo u r m o n ey g o f u r t h e r Currencies Direct also offers a range of additional services that can make your money go even further. For example, a forward contract allows you to fix an exchange rate for up to a year ahead of making a transfer. Fixing a rate this year means you’d be protected from any unfavourable shifts in the currency market, but you’d also miss out if exchange rates strengthened. Alternatively, with a limit order you set a target rate above the prevailing rate and the transfer is made automatically if currency market movement hits that level. This saves you having to watch markets yourself, and is useful if you don’t need to make a transfer immediately and have time to hold out for a better exchange rate. While this year is looking up and the outlook for the euro is bright, if the last year has taught us anything it’s that it is best to be prepared for the unexpected. Currencies Direct has helped over 325,000 individuals and businesses move money abroad since 1996. It has an ‘Excellent’ Trustscore on Trustpilot, over 20 global offices and a team of more than 500 currency experts. See below for full contact details.

For more detailed information , please contact the loc al of fice T: 2 8 9 3 9 5 7 3 9 or register at c u r r e n c i e s d i r e c t . c o m / p o r t u g a l to get regular updates on the currency markets , (u s e A l g a r v e P L U S m a g a z i n e a s t h e r e f e r e n c e) .

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If you need to make a transfer, it’s best to explore your options. People often find using a high street bank doesn’t get the best return for your money and you can get more by using a currency specialist like Currencies Direct. Many banks charge additional fees and don’t offer competitive exchange rates, while expert currency providers can secure excellent rates and move your money without transfer fees. If you’re using a bank to make regular transfers – like moving monthly payments abroad – the costs can quickly add up, whereas with an expert provider, you’ll soon start seeing the savings on your transfers. As Europe reopens and currency market movement fluctuates, timing could make a significant difference. At the start of 2021, the EUR/GBP exchange rate was £0.90 and by May it was £0.86, which on a €200,000 transfer would be a difference of £8,000 in just five months.

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The euro had a strong start this year, with the EUR/ GBP exchange rate hovering around £0.90 and the EUR/ USD exchange rate hitting a two-year high. But EUR exchange rates soon weakened because of the EU’s sluggish start to its vaccine rollout, in comparison to the UK and US. The emergence of a third wave of coronavirus cases in Europe accelerated these losses, particularly after data confirmed the Eurozone was on course for a double-dip recession as lockdowns hit European economies. However, after hitting one-year lows in late March, we saw the euro mount what looks like a sustained recovery thanks to improving coronavirus statistics and a faster vaccination programme.

G e t t h e b e s t r e t u r n s o n yo u r t ra n s f e r

ALGARVE P L U S

H ow h a s t h e e u r o m ove d s o far in 2021?


OUR DOORS ARE OPEN AGAIN... WE LOOK FORWARD TO CELEBRATING A NEW YOU.

Jim

H A I R A RT I S TS

Pho ne or em a i l for t h at s pec i a l a pp oi n tm e n t. T: +351 914 452 315 E : j i m h a i r a rt i st s @ gm a i l.c om E stra da Va l e do Lob o 9 47 A | 81 3 5 - 016 A lm a n c i l


DATELINE PLUS

THE agenda T H I S M O N T H ’ S S P E C I A L S E L E C T I O N O F T H I N G S WO R T H S E E I N G

A R T

MAGDALENA MOREY Tavira d’Artes Tavira 962 012 111

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From this abstract expressionist artist, originally from Poland and now living in Spain, a stunning work in mixed media and gold leaf, 100x65cm.

Mario Henrique

LOTTI KLINK

Joy of Life, mixed media, 80x80cm, from this Boliqueime-based artist. The exhibition of her work will at the Museum until 26 July, Monday to Sunday, 2pm to 7pm.

A R T C AT TO, LO U L É , 9 1 2 2 6 7 3 5 1

Dictatorium, in acrylic and oil on reversed canvas, 120x150cm. The text is an excerpt from the final speech in The Great Dictator, with Charlie Chaplin.

Algarve Photographers Group

Museu do Traje São Brás 966 329 073 19 June opening, 5pm

MUSEU DO TRAJE S ÃO B R Á S 9 6 6 3 2 9 07 3 O N N OW, U N T I L 2 8 J U LY

Rocks. Let’s see what members have come up with, competing in this challenge, to capture their interpretation of the theme.

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THE agenda W O R K S H O P

BEN AND NADRALI CERAMICS

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Loulé, Faro, São Brás and Moncarapacho 918 431 446

A R T

S P E C I A L

Check the website benandnadraliceramics. com and get on the mailing list, and to see what is happening where and when. Then join in one of the duo’s raw clay experiences and paint a pot. €15-€40. You can also order clay to take away.

E V E N T S

INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW VIL AMOU R A MARINA , 5 -13 J U NE

This great event returns again bringing together not only boats of every size, shape and price range, but accessories, equipment and services. There’s an area dedicated to lifestyle – Mercado da Vila – which encompasses fashion, decor, and design, and also one for nautical sports and activities, including diving, surfing and sailing. With 825 moorings, Vilamoura Marina is the biggest marina in Portugal, and winner of a number of international awards. There are two side events, the Vilamoura Boat Show Golf Trophy on 5 June, and the Regatta. Visit vilamouraboatshow.fil.pt and enjoy a great day out.

SATURDAYS AT THE PALACE Palacio Gama Lobo, Loulé Register at loulecriativo@ cm-loule.pt

12 June: Jewellery-making. Filomeno Pereira de Sousa and Selenia McDaid Two participants, six hour workshop, €65, materials included. Register by 5 June. 18 and 19 June: Initiation in ceramics, ball or block technique. Two day course, six participants, €85, material included. Register by 11 June.


Katya Apekisheva

DATELINE PLUS

M A R K E T S

Matinée and evening concerts 15 and 17 June: Pianist Konstantin Lapshin 23 and 25 June : Pianist Katya Apekisheva, and violinist Pavel Fischer Self-service coffee and biscuits before matinée performances; wine, fruit juices and canapés before the evening concerts. To book, email reservasconcertos@gmail.com Tickets are €25 for guests and non-members, payable in advance by bank transfer – for details see amigos-de-musica.org For membership enquiries: Contact Helga Hampton, Amigos’ President, at helga.hampton@gmail.com

Church concerts

Don’t miss

5 June, 9pm: Igreja São José, Ferreiras. Violinists Isabel Carvalhaes and Lizana Maciel; João Sousa, viola; and Ana Correia, cello. 12 June, 9pm, Capela Nossa Senhora de Fátima, Olhos de Água. Catarina Monteiro, soprano; Jorge Marquez, alto; Daniel Caetano, tenor; André Roxo, baritone. 19 June, 9pm: Igreja Matriz, Albufeira. Gonçalo Pescada, accordion; Rebecca Christophers, violin; Marta Justino, violin; Elisabete Martins, viola; Eduard Zlatkin, contrabass. More good things are at facebook.com/albufeira.pt

FARMERS MARKET Quinta Shopping First Sunday of the month 10am–1pm

MUNICIPAL MARKET Loulé Monday to Friday, 7am–2pm Saturday, 7am–1.30pm

THE LOCAL FARMERS BASKET Loulé Municipality has launched a great initiative through which you can order a basket of seasonal fruit and veg of your choice from small, local farmers to whom sustainable production is a priority. You can meet the farmers and buy on the spot or place an order. Check out facebook.com/102975814785756/ posts/296227965460539/?d=n for details.

GYSPY MARKETS / FLEA MARKETS / CAR BOOT SALES Check myguidealgarve.com/ usefulinfo/markets-on-thealgarve

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE

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T H E AU D I TO R I U M , O S AG O S TO S , S A N TA B Á R B A R A D E N E X E

Grab your shopping bags to head to the museum gardens for books and paintings, art and handicrafts, pottery and ceramics, jewellery, flowers, herbs and plants as well as sweets, cakes, jams and marmalades, different types of bread, aromatic oils and spices, special teas and more. As in past years, there will be a stand raising funds for the abandoned dogs, pups and kittens of São Brás and their neutering and re-homing.

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AMIGOS DE MUSICA

ALGARVE P L U S

C O N C E R T S

Museu do Traje São Brás 27 June, 10am-4pm

Pavel Fischer

Konstantin Lapshin

AMIGOS FAIR


HUMPH PLUS

AND finally A H H , A NTH O N Y M A R TI N I S R E A DY FO R A B IT O F EM B R AC I N G A F T E R T H E S E M A N Y M O N T H S O F D I S TA N C I N G B U T, U N D E R S TA N D A B LY, H E ’ S S TAY I N G W E L L A W AY F R O M T H O S E W H O A R E FA S T TO S P O U T C O N S P I R AC Y T H E O R I E S

O ALGARVE P L U S

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VER THE YEARS, America has

popularised many things, some good, some not so good and some downright appalling. Under the latter heading, one had to be, without a doubt, the ‘group hug’. This is normally performed at the end of a therapy session for those with a lack-of-selfesteem, or a gathering of reformed cokeheads, and also very often by a group of empty-headed narcissistic twenty- somethings, with gleaming snow-white teeth (eg the cast of Friends) when the group hug is utilised to affirm not just friendship and sympathy but also resolve and the ‘we’re all in this together’. But to those of us who do not wear their hearts on their sleeves, this manifestation of self-indulgence is a show of nauseating, weak-willed, spineless beings in need of constant reassurance. Well, as they say, that was then, and this is now. And being now, although I am not spineless, nor in need of constant reassurance, I am in grave danger of becoming both a hugger and a huggee, as for the past 16 months I have bumped fists, elbows and even feet with the best of them. I’ve strained my ears to hear speech mumbled through various mouth coverings and mumbled in return, our non-conversations made even worse by not being able to see through my steamed-up glasses. Well enough is enough. I need human contact; immediate family is good, but not enough. I want to shake the hands of my male friends; I want to kiss the females, I want to touch, to put arms around shoulders and I want to cuddle. So, if there are any like-minded people out there, male or female, contact me – we can even have a group hug, but masked of course.

given to Facebook and Twitter, whose followers can be as vociferous and fanatical as any religious zealot. They have many millions of users, who write and post anything they wish. They then sit back and wait to be praised, vilified or both. They also let their imaginations run riot, dream up scenarios, such as micro-chips within vaccines and imaginary cabals taking over the world. They bang on about blood clots and the thalidomide tragedy, but the actual scenario itself is unimportant, as long as it smacks of a conspiracy, and can be put out there under the banner “a friend in the medical profession told me...” and, within 20 minutes, it goes viral. The tabloids run with it and within days some airheaded ‘celebrity’ is either for it or against it, depending on the coverage it will give them. This, of course, comes under the heading of ‘The Individual’s Right to Freedom of Speech’. This ‘right’ is the sister right of the: ‘It’s a Free Country and You Have No Right to Tell Me How to Run my Life’ right, and is promogulated by the selfopinionated, sanctimonious morons who do not have two brain cells to rub together as they refuse to accept proven hard facts, such as these: One: this pandemic has caused the death of millions. Two: masks and distancing slow down the spread of infection. Three: vaccines, even when rolled out quickly, will save many millions more lives than it will inhibit. Four: It is the responsibility of all governments to protect the country and its citizens and, if necessary, pass laws to do so. Five: it is the duty of the police to enforce these laws. So, could someone please tell me why the streets are full of these marauding morons fighting authority for their ‘freedom’? Their freedom to do what – to kill themselves? Fine, I have no problem with that, if they wish to die, let them do so, after all, it’s their right, innit? So to all you ignorant selfish cretins, do us all a favour and go somewhere quiet where you can expire alone, choking as you gasp for air. But don’t you bloody well harm me, mine, or the people I care about - rant over.

If there are likeminded people out there, we can have a group hug, masked of course

I AM GENERALLY a placid person who rarely gets

angry but these narrow-minded apostles of all things conspiratorial make me furious. Karl Marx called religion ‘the opiate of the masses’. Today, this label could well be

. .




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