algarve PLUS - May '23

MORE OPTIONS THAN YO U EVER IMAGINED

Coronation month. The press coverage will doubtless be amazing – the grandeur, the pageantry, and the day King Charles must have been looking forward to all his life. While the Brits pack the streets of central London, cheering and waving banners and possibly umbrellas, we’ll watch the proceedings on television, sitting here in the sunshine, by the pool, or on the big screen in a favourite beach restaurant – a great way to celebrate far from the madding crowd.

This month, we’ve got our own regal offering: palatial places fit for royalty, home decor ideas that would be as right in a stately residence as in a countryside quinta (we’ve got those, too), bell towers made famous by one particular Dom and castles worth a visit.

We’ve toured to Evora, to Mafra, to Lisbon and closer to home to Armação de Pêra, sipped a Portuguese favourite, Moscatel de Setúbal, which celebrates its own day on the 9th of this month, and followed resident artists and artisans who deserve a crown for their creativity.

We’ve got books to read, dishes to cook (air fryer fans will love this), gardens to plan (think orange this month), and the latest thing in gizmos so you can keep track of your valuables including the four-legged variety.

And importantly, we introduce a special Trust that is making life better for youngsters here, and an association that is giving support to cancer sufferers and needs your support to continue their work.

We’ve been busy. Hope you like the result.

Jean marie Drouet - Oil on canvas

BOWLED OVER

Exclusive in Loulé to Martina’s jewellery and ceramics store in Rua 5 de Outubro 68 (that’s the walking street) are these bowls by Gresnovo, which come in off-white, beige, green and blue.

7.5cm mini bowl, €6; 15cm cereal bowl, €12.50; 24cm small salad bowl €29; 35cm large salad bowl, €49.

FRONT COVER:

We live in a land rich in colour and this time of the year flowers abound. They are the artist’s favourite

Sole mates

Burel Factory and Diverge have developed sneakers made in an ethical and sustainable way, using highly durable and premium materials such as burel fabric, which guarantees high resistance, breathability and comfort. There are two models in this limited edition: the Diverge Landscape Burel, €176, and the Diverge Twist High Burel, €144. There are Burel stores in Lisbon and Porto, the Factory store in Manteigas, Serra da Estrela or you can buy online at burelfactory.com

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE EMAIL susi@rogol-goodkind.com

QUITE SEPARATE.

Check out Massimo Dutti’s new collection online or at any one of the Algarve’s shopping malls. Wide-leg trousers and stripey t-shirts are the thing this season. massimodutti.com

Relaxed style

Long kimono in 100% crinkle cotton – a great lounge-around coverup story from Alquatro, in Almancil. €179. alquatro.pt

wish list

COTTON ON

Ange Boutik in São Brás is a real promoter of Portuguese artisans – this basket, from a collection of different shapes and sizes and colours, is made of 100% cotton, and measures 21.5cm diameter and 95cm high. At €49, it is a great and original buy. angeboutik.com

BAGGING THE BEST

There’s a real story behind Toino Abel’s instantly-recognisable bags. Designed by Nuno Henriques and made to order, they are created from wild soft rushes and woven on manual looms. The lining is GOTS-certified organic cotton and the leather is full vegetable-tanned LWG certified. Importantly, the artisans are ‘inside’ the social state, with working contracts, bringing protected and dignified, XXI-century, working conditions to this century-old field in the countryside in the centre of Portugal. Prices go up to around €285. toinoabel.com

Add a touch of cream to your décor. This Portuguese designer house has created the Bombon table lamp that sits perfectly in a neutral colour scheme. It features a stylish wooden monolithic base that is lacquered to create a wonderful sheen. 100cm high, and a fabric or silk shade, the base also comes in a rich black. €1,030 caffelattehome.com

CAFFE LATTE

CHEF JOÃO VIEGAS’ ORGANIC AND MODERN ALGARVE CUISINE RETURNS

Vila Vita Parc's Atlântico restaurant has opened its doors for its second season, showcasing authentic ingredients and gastronomic traditions of the Algarve by Chef João Viegas, who brings exciting new pescatarian creations and puts vegetable protein to the forefront of his dishes.

To compliment the richness of fresh ingredients from the countryside and the sea, the chef focuses on a sustainable and balanced menu, which includes sharing starters, such as beetroot tartar with grapefruit; root vegetables and white horseradish with mustard; prawn brioche with coriander and fried garlic; and marinated squid with black sepia bread and samphire.

The main dishes are essentially vegetable-based and can be accompanied by seasonal fish. A perfect example is the vegetable caldeirada with sweet potato and halophyte, that may be joined by octopus,

or the smoked aubergine with wild mushrooms, to which fresh snapper can be added. Also on the menu are the so-called pot dishes for two: Chef João Viegas’ interpretations of Algarve recipes, such as chickpeas with pumpkin and chards or the runner beans with charcoal roasted squid from the coast.

An Algarvian, Chef João Viegas brings a vast experience acquired in several prestigious restaurants, such as São Gabriel* in the Algarve; El Celler de Can Roca*** and Mugaritz**, both in Spain, and Central Restaurante in Peru. A journey that led him to focus on a concept where 100% regional organic products of each season from local farmers, fishermen and producers are favoured.

Atlântico restaurant is open Saturday to Wednesday, from 19:00 to 22:30. Advance bookings are recommended 282 310 100

*

Michelin Stars

SITTING VERY PRETTY From Dunas Lifestyle

in Almancil comes the B&B Italia Borea range of outdoor seating that features joint-free tubular metal frames as used in aeronautical design, and ultra-generous cushions, the padding of which is 100% polyester fibre obtained from recycled PET plastic bottles, 280 of which are used to create the padding for a single armchair. There’s a huge choice of covers available. This chair is 100cm wide x 88cm deep. dunas-style.com

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE EMAIL susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Sculptor Nimrod Messeg’s Uriel is raring to go. The elaborate work from Art Catto, on show now at the Conrad Hotel, is a big 85cmx150cmx70cm.

VERMELHO SEEING

AS A YOUNG journalist working on a women’s magazine in the 90s, I had some fashion dreams. The most recurrent of them was owning a pair of Christian Louboutin’s black stilettos, with the unique red sole, of course. It was a statement, a palpable sign that you had made it in the fashion world.

I went on to have two babies instead of the shoes, but years later I bought the incredible nail polish (the bottle designed like a stiletto heel) launched by the designer. Red, of course. A bright, perfect red.

So it was no surprise when I knew that the name of his first hotel was going to be Vermelho. It made complete sense. Red, in Alentejo. Louboutin’s love for Portugal is well known, but when he announced a hospitality business in the making, I guess everyone thought it would happen in the very expat-crowded Comporta, where he is known to have a house. But the designer decided to go a bit further down in the Alentejo and chose the small village of Melides, which he had discovered 12 years previously and fell in love with it on the spot, to make the first Vermelho come to life: the first yes... more of that later.

A COUPLE OF DAYS BEFORE IT OPENED TO THE PUBLIC, WE WERE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE AN EXCLUSIVE PRIVATE TOUR OF THE MOST AWAITED HOSPITALITY PROJECT OF THE YEAR: CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN’S VERMELHO MELIDES, IN THE ALENTEJO

Words: SANDRA GATO

Friends were called in to add their own creative signature to the interior design of Vermelho Melides

Quickly, Louboutin’s new project was on everyone’s lips and curiosity grew by the day, inside and outside the country. When I knew the name was confirmed – Vermelho – it was kind of obvious because of the brand image, but at the same time, it made me wonder: “Red? In a traditional Alentejo village, where the colours are – and always have been –white and blue?” Would a splash of red ‘hurt’ the area’s purity?

How red is Vermelho?

So that was the first question on my mind before arriving in Melides to visit the hotel. How much red would I find and how would it merge into the surroundings. I went on the Tuesday before the big opening. So many final works were still taking place when I rang the bell of the white building with a porcelain coat of arms.

Received by Rodrigo Leal, Vermelho Melides’s general manager, I was taken on an exclusive tour of all the areas of this very special hotel yet to open. Well, not all. The restaurant Xtian (the owner’s first name), was already working in soft opening mode. It is not exclusive for guests, it mainly serves Portuguese traditional dishes (chef David Abreu is the maestro) and it seems to reflect all of the Alentejo’s sun.

First impression: red is not the overwhelming tone. It is present but in well balanced details, starting in the hotel’s logo, and embroidered on the white sheets and towels.

From the world to Melides

One of the first feelings you have in Vermelho Melides is that you travelled to Spain, Morocco, India, and brought back to Melides a bit of each of those places. Well, that is exactly what Christian Louboutin did.

French but with Egyptian roots, the designer travelled the world for leisure and inspiration, and when he decided to build his first hotel he made a point of bringing together some of the cultures he loves most.

We started our tour at the bar – a very special meeting point. There you cannot help but notice the intricate silver counter that takes you immediately to Spanish churches in Andalucia, and also the Moroccan poufs and carved wooden tables. Most times you cannot tell what comes from where, because there’s such a great visual balance.

Maximalist and eclectic are two words that perfectly describe Vermelho Melides, but what is impossible to define is why some elements work so well with others, and that is exactly where talent resides.

There are hints of red here and there, but it is not the overriding feature. Rather, it is incorporated where it makes complete aesthetic sense, bringing many elements together

A very personal affair

“I realised many people have the fantasy of designing or owning a hotel. I like to make my dreams a reality. That is why Vermelho was born. This project allows me to empty my storage full of the antiques and objects I have purchased over many years! Furthermore, it is an opportunity to show the excellence of many artists and artisans I admire,” explains Christian Louboutin in a ‘letter of intention’. I asked Rodrigo about Monsieur Louboutin’s involvement in the choosing of the materials and decoration in general and he assured me that he had his finger in every small detail. And there are so many!

All the 13 rooms have a different feel to them, not an easy task to find a theme in common. But I would say there is a definite solid spacious feel to all of them with very obvious attention given to the bathrooms. Big baths, beautiful tiles, Indian amenities... all invite you to spend time there, like you would do in an hammam. One of the rooms even has a beautiful bath on the terrace excusing its guests from going to the swimming pool – not huge but big enough to enjoy Melide’s country air.

There’s a shuttle to take guests to the beach (minutes away by car) and one detail that I found delicious: you can take breakfast anywhere you want – in your room, by the pool, in the Indian common room – anytime you want.

Rodrigo confirms that most of the artworks scattered around the hotel belong to the designer’s collection and were chosen, by him, to be placed exactly where they stand now. That is one of the reasons why you feel you are staying in someone’s home – Christian’s home. And that is exactly what he wants. This hotel is his home in Melides, decorated by him and his friends, and we are his guests.

And proving the seriousness of his relationship with Melides, there are two more

Vermelho units planned: one in an ancient local property overlooking the lagoon and another one with more of a resort feel that is going to be erected on a piece of land bought by Monsieur Louboutin.

Collaborating friends

When a hotel has as its base concept ‘a home to welcome friends’ it is a plus that friends make it a reality. The first one to be called was Madalena Caiado, a Portuguese architect, who had worked in Louboutin’s Lisbon house. Carolina Irving, another long-time friend, was responsible for textile creations and decoration. Another friend with an important role was Patricia Medina, a friend from Seville who connects Iberian artisans. But there are other important names to point out while discovering Vermelho Melides:

Giuseppe Ducrot: the Italian sculptor who decorated all the hotel’s façades, including the pool, inspired by baroque gardens.

Konstantin Kakanias: a Greek artist who has been a friend of Monsieur Louboutin for decades. At Vermelho, he painted the walls of two of the rooms turning them into unique pieces of art.

Fábrica de Azulejos de Azeitão: for handmade tiles, designed according to ancient tradition and know-how. This Portuguese factory was commissioned to create the beautiful hotel’s red tile floor pigmentation and also the panels of some of the bedrooms.

Vida Dura: located in Melides, this company curates handmade works by local or international artisans to bring elements that create unique atmospheres.

Villarreal: A Sevillian workshop founded in 1954 that makes incredible chiselled pieces –like the one in the fabulous Vermelho bar.

Maison Gatti: a company that custommakes handmade rattan furniture. Chairs, closet doors and other details are signed by this french atelier founded in 1920.

The Finest Art Gallery in the Algarve

Jürgen Lingl

Bronze Sculptures

ArtCatto Gallery, in Loulé

www.artcatto.com

Avenida José da Costa Mealha nº43 +351 289 419 447 | info@artcatto.com

IMAGINE A TRANQUIL OASIS, A FIVE-MINUTE WALK FROM THE HEART OF LOULÉ, WITH SHADED TREES, FLOWER-FILLED GARDENS, THE SOUNDS OF RUNNING WATER AND BIRD SONG. THIS IS WHERE CHILDREN LIVING UNDER THE CLOUD OF POVERTY, OR STRUGGLING WITH LEARNING CHALLENGES, CAN DISCOVER THEIR POTENTIAL THROUGH CREATIVITY. THE ELAINE BAIN FAMILY TRUST MAKES IT HAPPEN

Words: STEFF TOFT

A better tomorrow

Opportunity and encouragement can change attitudes and support inspiration by making it possible to realise a dream. This Trust is a life-changer for many

EBFT WAS BUILT by Keith Courtney from Wigan who moved to the Algarve in 1998 and lives today in Figueiral in Almancil. Based on a model he had successfully established in the UK in 2012 – to help children of secondary school age to flourish despite not having the best start in life – he converted two buildings and a plot of land on the outskirts of Loulé into a haven for young people. The Loulé project, completed in June 2022, and named after his partner Elaine Bain, who passed away in 2020, was set up to focus on providing help and inspiration to youngsters in need, offering them a real alternative, and true opportunities.

Prior to establishing this life-changing initiative here, Keith and Elaine volunteered with the Salvation Army in São Brás de Alportel, and were aware of the levels of poverty affecting families within the town. It’s often impossible for others to understand the affects on young people that go beyond things like lack of food, clothing or having a safe place to sleep at night. It affects aspirations. Children living in such conditions struggle to understand how life could be different. They can see other people around them achieving and progressing, but it is hard for them to understand how life could be for them. Often, generations of the family have lived the same way and faced the same outcomes in life. Breaking that cycle takes courage, strength and determination to take the smallest of steps in a different direction. The Elaine Bain Family Trust helps children to take those steps, supports them, guides them and demonstrates how a dream of a brighter future can become a reality.

The staff at EBFT are mindful of the youngsters they have in their care and ensure that they are grouped together to gain the maximum benefits from their time spent at the centre. Ivone Sousa, manager of EBFT, explains: “We support about 90 children, divided into groups of approximately ten children each, that visit the trust on a weekly basis to undertake a range of activities. There are some children from a school in Quarteira, others from three associations in the local area – the Salvation Army, Akredita Em Ti and Project Mud@ki. We aim to help each of them identify and develop their individual skills.”

Initially, EBFT received a group of children with special educational needs from a school in Quarteira but wanted to engage with more schools in the area. Teachers and students were invited to view the facilities. “They came, and they said ‘Wow, we want to be here’, and they started spreading the word,” says Ivone. “As a result, four more groups of children joined the activities at the centre, and the numbers grew quickly, as other teachers and associations learned what we had to offer.”

And the learning facilities available are impressive. The main house provides traditional classrooms, a kitchen, dining area, games room and calming zen room. Outside, the gardens fulfil a multitude of purposes. Practical elements: a vegetable garden and flowers that need to be tended throughout the year. Fun elements: swings, a putting green and a natural pool. Sensory elements: smells, sounds and colours benefitting students with educational needs.

Smaller, quiet areas offer places where children struggling with school or difficult home lives can sit quietly and rest for a moment. In the grounds of the Trust is a fully-equipped outside kitchen where children can be taught to cook and to where teachers

can bring their own students. There is a small but functional hair salon where students can develop an interest and learn skills that will help shape a career. And there is a workshop, again fully equipped, and yoga studio.

These facilities are not just for show. Each has been carefully created with purpose in mind, and reflects a key aspect of EBFT, where children are encouraged to express their emotions through their chosen activity, using that as the basis for learning. The focus is on creativity and that comes from Elaine Bain herself, who was an avid photographer and many of her pieces are displayed around the main house.

The opportunity for young people to learn and express themselves in ways that traditional learning sometimes fails to provide is what makes the overwhelming difference. During my recent visit, the ‘students’ were watching a film. Ivone explained: “The objective is that they will choose something that they would like to illustrate, something that touched them, or a lesson they learned from the movie. The children will paint their work on a wall in the garden, contributing to the environment while providing a sense of ownership and belonging.”

Creativity and awareness of the needs of others underpin activities, including cooking. Volunteers teach the children to plan and produce a meal; they use local ingredients, picking herbs and vegetables from the garden. After cooking, they share the meal, eat together, wait until everyone finishes,

and clean the table. They also prepare full meals for 12 to take to Refood in Almancil, along with any leftovers from their own meal, for others who need help.

Currently, a project is being developed for those who have special skills in the arts. The intention is that the kids will manage the whole process, from planning the theme and what they are going to make to creating it, and then going on to planning an exhibition, and that involves selecting the pieces to go on show, securing a venue and finally displaying their work to the public. These annual events will highlight the positive impact of EBFT on children’s learning, and key to that is the pride the youngsters involved have in their accomplishment and the selfconfidence that results.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED

EBFT is privately funded, providing further opportunities to engage with the local community and to support other vulnerable children in the area. “We were invited to Quinta Shopping to share some of the activities we do here with other children, during the school holidays. The money we raised from that project will go to Mud@Ki,” says Ivone proudly.

EBFT is always on the lookout for volunteers. To date those with a passion have taught children photography, art, cooking, tai chi, dance and carpentry –subjects that aren’t offered elsewhere. Do you want to make a difference?

If so, contact Ivone Sousa at ivone.sousa@ebft.pt

What of the future? It is very clear from spending time at EBFT that this is just the beginning. There is a plan: to start with a class of children aged 12 to 13, who will come every year until they are 17. The goal is to show them what’s possible, providing the motivation to learn and follow their passions in life.

EBFT is already achieving its own dream of making a difference; tomorrow promises even more.

The opportunity for young people to learn and express themselves in ways that traditional learning sometimes fails to provide is what makes the overwhelming difference.

Amara now has an outdoor terrace for al fresco dining with beautiful views over the golf and pines. And the chef is currently busy adding some exciting flavours to the delicious 2023 menu.

RMAÇÃO DE PÊRA. Most people can’t pronounce it properly, but if you can then you’ve heard of it and you’re probably not crazy about it.

Armação de Pêra is definitely not one of the world’s hot spots, but it IS plopped right on top of one of the most glorious stretches of coastline in the world.

One November afternoon, the sun was still belting down (though summer was long gone) and I had gathered together a crew of mates. Our mission was to make a video which involved paddleboarding, caves, secret beaches and an old hotel which has been serving up super comfy sleeps since the 1970s.

We slipped into the water and paddled out through the glassy coves, drone buzzing overhead, capturing our every move. Soon we found ourselves in a deep tunnel which opened out into a mysterious cave, complete with sandy beach and two light holes which beamed down golden rays onto the sand. It was like a hidden world had opened up and only we were allowed in.

Heading back to the Holiday Inn after a sunset drone session, I marvelled at the age of this hotel. It was iconic, previously being called the Hotel Garbe and was designed in the late 50s when tourism was just rearing its head. Tourism in the form of hotels had been constructed all over the country with the support of the Estado Novo’s ‘Pousada Project’, which commenced in the Algarve in the 40s in São Brás de Alportel, the pousadas built as part of the government’s public works programmes, which had seen great improvements in the country’s roads.

A 1964 article in Life Magazine praised the Hotel Garbe as the “Ritz of the Algarve” and it is still a noteworthy hotel to visit in 2023; its stunning location

In the nick of time

THERE ARE SOME PLACES ONE KNOWS LITTLE ABOUT THAT ARE ON OUR DOORSTEP – OR RATHER ON THE NEXT BEACH.

NICK ROBINSON GOES WEST

right on the cliffs above the sand is difficult to beat.

After the Hotel Garbe, monstrous tower blocks were erected right on the beach and Armação de Pêra grew rapidly. Today, development is still a thing and a fancy line of apartments now borders the city to the east with a stunning view of the protected sand dunes which stretch towards Albufeira.

Top class beach restaurants dot the eastern reaches of the area. The centre of the city may look a little plain, but catch an old fishing boat from the western beaches (just before the caves and cliffs start) and you’ll be amazed at the cliffside panoramas, drifting past your little vessel. An hour or two gliding through this natural wonderland will honestly blow your mind. Even better if you take a kayak or a paddleboard. Companies abound on getyourguide.com

We awoke the next morning and I stumbled out onto the verandah as the sun rose above the ocean. It’s a special experience sleeping so close to the water and watching it change with the seasons.

My wife and I headed down to the Holiday Inn this winter for a weekend and the ocean proved to be a mighty spectacle as I sat on our balcony, sipping a drink while mighty Atlantic waves came crashing in.

Armação de Pêra does play host to thousands of tourists during the summer season and I’ve looked back from my paddle board on many occasions to see beaches packed with bodies. I usually utter a little prayer of gratitude that I am out patrolling the ocean and not sandwiched between the holiday-makers on the sand. Those same throngs keep the town alive though, and without them many of the fun beachside cafés, restaurants and bars couldn’t survive.

I urge you to have a look at Armação de Pêra. If you haven’t been over for a while, it’s definitely changing for the better.

Sweet dreams

INTERNATIONAL MOSCATEL DAY WAS LAUNCHED IN 2012 BY THE GALLO FAMILY VINEYARDS IN CALIFORNIA, ONE OF THE WORLD'S LARGEST WINERIES. THIS YEAR IT WILL BE CELEBRATED ON 9 MAY, SO GET READY TO RAISE A GLASS AND CELEBRATE OUR OWN MOSCATEL DE SET Ú BAL

Words: L Í VIA MOKRI

OSCATEL

DE SETÚBAL

, with its unique properties, is the emblematic wine of the Portuguese Setúbal Peninsula. A sweet dessert wine made primarily from the grape variety of the same name, it stands out with its fruity, molasses character and aromas of tropical fruits.

The wine is made from one of two types of Moscatel grapes that each produces specific results.

Moscatel de Setúbal is a very sweet, fragrant wine aged in oak barrels for several years, and its shades of gold can range from topaz to amber in the glass. Intense when young, its flavours of exotic flowers, orange blossom, linden, honey and raisins develop with age to those of dried fruits, nuts, caramel and coffee. This white wine, with a special and unmistakable taste, is made from Moscatel de Setúbal, a white grape variety considered to be the most pungent in the world, characterised by its sweetness as well as its unique acidity.

Moscatel Roxo de Setúbal (purple muscat) is made from the rarer, pink-skinned grape variety of the same name. Also referred to as the ‘fifth essence of Moscatel’, the wine has a drier and more complex aroma than Moscatel de Setúbal, with softer aromas and more complex flavours of raisins, hazelnuts, spices, bitter orange, and cherry and fig compote.

The winemaking process

Like Port, Moscatel de Setúbal is aged in wood until bottling. The key difference between Moscatel de Setúbal and other wines is the process that occurs after vinification. While most fortified wines use a pure grape spirit to stop fermentation before they are left to age, Moscatel undergoes an alternative process in which highly aromatic Moscatel grape skins are added to the wine and spirit mixture to macerate over a period of time. This is what gives Moscatel its distinctive and intense floral aroma.

A Moscatel de Setúbal wine spends at least 18 months in oak

barrels, which results in a drink with a strong orange colour and a spicy aroma that is very similar to that of Christmas sweet treats. But the best wines spend up to four times longer in the barrel – after 20 years of barrel ageing, they darken and have complex, intense aromas highlighted by nutty and dried fruit flavours, as well as those of citrus and honey.

The best Moscatel grapes come from vineyards planted on the limestone soil of the Arrábida Mountains. The wine can be produced from grapes from a single vintage or as a mixture of several vintages. And these wines reach their freshest and fruitiest style when they are five to six years old, with strong apricot notes.

Types of Moscatel de Setúbal

The label is an important source of information about the wine, showing its geographical origin, the producer, the alcohol content, the date of the harvest, the grape varieties and, most likely, indications regarding the production of the wine and the harmonising notes.

Moscatel de Setúbal wines can be marketed from when they are at least 18 months old. The year of harvest or the age of the wine may be indicated on the label. Accordingly, there can be five, ten, 20, 30, 35, and 40+ -year-old wines.

These wines have also the following classifications: Moscatel Reserva: a wine with an outstanding quality rating where the year of harvest can be indicated on the bottle.

Non-vintage Moscatel de Setúbal: a mixture of Moscatel grapes of different vintages and therefore with different properties. Superior: This one is at least five years old and has obtained an outstanding quality rating.

Moscatel Colheita: a vintage wine, in which the grapes come from a single vintage.

Moscatel de Setúbal, as an aperitif, is best served at 10°C. As a complement to desserts, 16°C is perfect.

Food pairing

The aromas of orange and orange blossom are the two most commonly found aromas of Moscatel de Setúbal, especially in the younger wines. Wines older than five years often have the aroma and taste of candied oranges, making them a good choice for all kinds of citrus desserts.

Because of its strong taste, coffee is usually the ’enemy’ of wine, but coffee-based desserts, such as the famous Portuguese coffee biscuit cake Bolo de Bolacha, are great partners.

Portugal has a long tradition of ’monastery’ sweets made with eggs, sugar and almonds or a custard-like cream, such as in Pastel de Nata. Moscatel wines can cope with the sugary intensity because it balances the flavours with its natural acids.

When pairing Moscatel wine with cheese, the acidity and sweetness of the drink are harmonised with the salt in the cheese. Therefore, the saltiest, marinated cheese will be the most appropriate choice. The best example of this is the Azeitão cheese made in the Setúbal region.

Chocolate is also a great pairing for wine. And since the profile of Moscatel is rich, and the cocoa content of the chocolates is also varied, the range of possible partnerships can be wide. Milk chocolate, for example, harmonises well with a younger Moscatel, as the acidity of the wine compensates for the sweetness of the chocolate.

Semi-sweet chocolates can also be easily combined with wine. As Moscatel is a sweet wine by nature, a variety older than five years, or Moscatel Roxo, will be the perfect choice.

In the case of dark chocolate with a cocoa content of more than 70%, the best pairing is a wine older than ten years, or a Moscatel Roxo. In this case, any muscat will actually soften the bitterness of the dark chocolate with its sweetness.

Chocolates filled with liqueur, fruit, or nut cream, due to the similarity of the aromas, also harmonise well with Moscatel de Setúbal.

moscatel cocktails

While some wines don’t really lend themselves to being part of a mix, Moscatel’s light and fruity flavours work well in refreshing coolers. Try these out on International Moscatel Day and enjoy all summer long...

MOSCATEL TÓNICO

Serves 1

4cl of Moscatel de Setúbal

1cl of Triple Sec

tonic water

½ slice of orange

1 cinnamon stick

A spiral of orange peel

Pour the Moscatel wine and the Triple Sec into a long drink glass. Add the orange slice and cinnamon stick. Then fill the glass with tonic water. Garnish with the spiral of orange peel.

MOSCATEL SANGRIA

Makes 1 litre

10cl of Moscatel de Setúbal

½ bottle of white sparkling wine

5cl of vodka

2 slices of orange

2 slices of lime

5cl of lime juice

½ apple

1 cinnamon stick

4 mint leaves

½L 7Up

Ice

Cut the washed fruits into cubes or slices. Mix all the ingredients in a glass jar and stir well before serving.

FLAVOURED MOSCATEL

Serves 1

6cl of Moscatel de Setúbal

Sprig of rosemary

Grated zest of 1 orange

1 or 2 ice cubes

Slice of orange

Burn the rosemary on a plate and turn an empty tumbler on top. Wait ten seconds and remove the glass. Place the orange zest on the rim. Pour the Moscatel wine and ice into the glass and mix. Garnish with a slice of fresh orange and a sprig of rosemary.

GINGER MOSCATEL

Serves 1

5cl Moscatel

Ginger ale as taste ice cubes

2 slices of lemon peel

Put the ice cubes into the glass. Pour the wine and add half a glass of ginger ale. Garnish with lemon peel slices..

These three are available at Continente

Creating

Having the freedom to gather waste is what has made this project so vibrant and rewarding for the team. With rescued materials they have produced items of real value to the recipients

TURNING TRASH INTO TREASURE WAS THE ETHOS BEHIND THE RECENT #INFINITY PROJECT, A VISIONARY COLLABORATION BETWEEN LOULÉ DESIGN LAB AND INFRAMOURA. ARTISANS AND CRAFTWORKERS GOT INVOLVED IN A BID TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE

Words: DEBBIE REYONOLDS

LEARNING HOW old event banners, road signs, unwanted furniture, leftover wood and plant waste were turned into the likes of music instruments, funky chairs, pictures frames, dominos and herb gardens grabbed my attention. Finding out how these creative items were then used in social upliftment projects was inspirational. Talking me through the process was the Loulé Design Lab’s Joana Dias, who is clearly passionate about the recycling and reusing concept. She explained that the Design Lab, which is an incubator of the Loulé Municipality’s Criativo Project, teamed up with public space management company Inframoura late in 2021 to work on a circular economy project.

Inframoura works in Vilamoura and Vila Sol and included in its functions is the collection of municipal and household solid waste, urban cleaning and maintenance of green spaces.

“The challenge was to image a social project which would give new life to the old household and garden waste they collected,” says Joana. “It was clear from the start that we needed funding for such a project and so we submitted #infinity to the Environment Fund in the category of Sustainable Consumption and Production.”

In competition

“This was not easy because it is a national competition with around 200 applicants, but we were very lucky to come in ninth place and were awarded funding of €18,900 in June 2022.”

Another challenge was that the terms of the funding stipulated that the project had to be completed within six months, which meant that the team was under huge pressure to get the work done, taking the summer holiday into account.

“Thanks goodness, we had done some of the groundwork,” laughs Joana. For example, with the help of the Loulé Municipality’s Department of Health and Social Development they had identified three worthy institutions to be the recipients of their creations – Lar Casa do Povo from Ameixial (an old age home), Fundação António Aleixo (a children’s day care centre ) and Associação Humanitária de Doentes de Parkinson e Alzheimer (AHDPA, a home for people with Alzheimers and Parkinson’s).

“It was very important from the start to identify what these places needed so that we were providing true value,” Joana explains. “It was also important in the beginning to visit the Inframoura waste yards to

get to know the refuse collection team and the types of bulky waste items and materials that are usually collected.”

With all this in mind #infinity was born with the purpose of giving waste a new life “through actions that range from the renovation of furniture to the dismantling of bulky waste items for source material, to the reuse of waste left by the pruning of Vilamoura and Vila Sol green spaces.

“The major goal of ours was to reintroduce these objects, supposedly at the end of their life cycle, back into the life of people in social upliftment projects,” says Joana.

With the project in full swing, the challenge of knowing what materials were needed and available at any given time was overcome by setting up a WhatsApp platform between the various work groups. The next step was making prototypes of the designs for evaluation and confirmation by the team, followed by the production of each project design.

The results were remarkable

For example, for the day care centre, I loved the fish made out of discarded traffic signs, which transformed into a giant xylophone; the board game made from the bases of old chairs and the mini kitchen constructed from various waste. For

the Casa do Povo, which was typically institution bland, they re-imaged discarded chairs by reupholstering them with old event banners. “This not only brightened them, but also helped in making them more hygienic and easier to clean,” says Joana.

A particular favourite of the team was the old manual sewing machine which they fixed for one of the residents, who had been a seamstress.

She didn’t know how to use a modern sewing machine, I was told, but getting one that she could work with gave her a new purpose. It was lovely, the team say, seeing how happy it made her, never mind how happy her husband was to see her enjoying herself.

A once bare white wall was transformed into an art gallery with photographs of places around the institution, which were then beautifully framed using the wood from old palettes and fruit boxes.

Old traffic signs were repurposed again, this time to make wheelchairfriendly desks, another design also used for AHDPA. Also, for both places, the team used the wheels and mechanisms from old baby prams to make colourful pedals to help with arm and leg mobility.

One of my personal favourites were the ‘dominos’ made from garden waste, which instead of numbers or symbols used colours to provide mental stimulation for the residents.

For all three projects, the team also created mini aromatic and sensory herb gardens.

“When it came time to handing over the designs it was so rewarding seeing the response,” says Joana. “Everyone was amazed by how waste could be turned into such unusual, creative and functional objects.”

Increased input

Noteworthy is that in the original proposal 58 objects were identified and approved, but the seven design teams were so invested in the project that they ended up making 98.

This included bags for the Inframoura garden workers made from event marketing banners. “Because these are made with plastic and fibre they can’t be recycled, so we identified the need that the gardeners had for a bag which could safely carry their tools and clothes, but which also looked good,” said Joana. “One of the workers was so excited to get a bag which featured a famous singer’s face.”

And then there were the composting bins, which were created for the Inframoura canteen garden and also for their clients.

The initial #infinity project was completed in November 2021, but

that was not enough for the Loulé Design Lab team, who decided to keep the project alive.

“The process taught us new methodologies and ways of thinking, which highlighted the need to continue, in a larger way, as the Infinity Movement,” says Joana.

Which is how they got involved with Loule’s Festival Med, creating an ‘Islamic Terrace’, showcasing seating made from cardboard, banners and other municipal waste. “We also made tables out of old wine bottles, which we got from restaurants in the area.”

She said the entire process was a reflection on how our throwaway society needs to change.

“It’s become so easy to just throw things away instead of thinking about how to revalue, rethink and reuse beautiful old pieces that can then stay alive for generations to come.”

Winning the Praticás Sustentáveis do Loulé for Loulé Design Lab validates the work that the team has done, which includes projects like Infinity, and Joana says, they are committed to getting more people to respect nature and the environment.

“We learned how fulfilling it can be to give things another life rather than letting them end up in a landfill site. It’s good for us and especially for the planet.”

The Infinity Movement’s dream is to have the space and the finance to continue what they started with the original project.

“We have shown that it is possible to build a sustainable creative recycling economy,” says Joana. “It starts with small steps, and then hopefully it’s a lifelong journey.”

The seven Loulé Design Lab players are André Silva Sancho, Leni Farenzena, Gonçalo Gama, Gustavo Arguello and Carla Martins, Sandra Neto and Veronica Guerreiro, Marta Lourenço, Paulo Tomé.

The tireless artisans involved take real pride in their work

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chapter 20

Casa

Amor

YES, THERE ARE SOME GREY CLOUDS HOVERING – AS WAS BOUND TO HAPPEN WITH SUCH AN ADVENTUROUS PROJECT – BUT JACK AND WALTER KEEP THEIR SPIRITS UP: THE DECORATION OF THE FUTURE BOUTIQUE HOTEL IS COMING TOGETHER, AND DOING SO BEAUTIFULLY

Words: ELAINE JOYCE

JACK AND WALTER are facing the pressures that were certain to come towards the end of the Casa Amor construction period – the possible delays as well as questions about water or electricity. So, what are the consequences for our entrepreneurs? Will they open as planned this summer?

“We simply do not know today,” says Walter. “We had a completion date scheduled for January that had to be delayed until May, although that was still within the planned timetable of 15 months. These forecasts will most likely still have to be reviewed.”

“We have had and continue to receive a considerable number of enquiries from clients waiting to be first guests – we did not realise to what degree Casa Amor had already seduced lovers of Olhão and the Algarve,” says Jack. “We will know this month when we will be able to welcome them in perfect conditions. And we want to thank the municipal services of the city of Olhão who are mobilizing for businesses. When you feel like the ground is slipping away from under your feet, support like this makes you feel less alone.”

There is no question of stepping back. Jack and Walter are taking advantage of this period to finalise

HAIR ARTIST | HAIR PIECES | PRIVATE GYM

Time to plan furnishings and to delight in finding Portuguese craftspeople who continue with techniques that have been employed over generations

their purchases. They are very attached to a Portuguese company that they read about in a previous issue of AlgarvePLUS. “Portugal is rich in companies that have real know-how, whether it is the production of furniture, fabrics, cutlery, porcelain, and not to mention artisan artists! In short, everything to equip a boutique hotel without using companies that are located on the other side of the world that are perhaps cheaper, but less respectful of the environment and working conditions!”

In Lisbon, Jack and Walter met Kiki Voortman (@__ studiok__ on Instagram) and Margarida (@margarida_ fabrica), two ceramists whose creations are very different, with a sense of delicacy and purity that caught the attention of our duo for the lighting of the bathrooms. In Ilhavo, they met their friends Milú and Jorge from Oficina da Formiga Cerâmica, to make decisions on all the dishes for breakfast, and they will, of course, find again the famous mugs with red hearts!

“In Braga, we met Francisco, a friend of Claire Cipriani, the creator of the new co-living space in the Algarve (@ pomar_coliving), who will reproduce tables for us in the style of the old café of Loulé, with a very beautiful yellow marble,” enthuses Walter.

Next, to Porto, where they finalised the choice of bedding

in the Molaflex factory; and in Guimarães, they discovered the Sampedro company, founded in 1921, where they chose sheets, pillowcases, duvet covers, tablecloths, runners, napkins, thick white cotton, cotton percale and sometimes openwork stitch embroidery. Jack and Walter learned fast that for each bed they had to provide four sets of linen!

“After, we went to Serra da Estrela where sheep graze and produce one to three kilos of wool a year. There are two spinning mills left there, and we visited Burel Factory, seduced by its creativity. We chose colourful bedthrows and decided to have three armchairs made for the winter living room.”

Jack and Walter ended this journey in Estremoz to discover the world of Aurèle at Casbablanca (@casbablanca. deco) where they found, among other treasures, the pretty white Portuguese ‘cod tail’ chairs. They also discovered the wine production of Bruno, his companion, and fell in love with the wines of Domaine de Borba. “No pesticides, no insecticides, just over 1,000 bottles every year... you will find them at Casa Amor,” Jack promises.

So goes life at Casa Amor, between grey clouds and beautiful encounters, between construction and decoration, between hopes and fears and beautiful tastings to forget the grey clouds...

Stone ages

…AND IT AGES BEAUTIFULLY, RESULTING IN ANYTHING BUT THE ORDINARY. HERE IN PORTUGAL THERE ARE ENTIRE VILLAGES TUCKED AWAY IN THE COUNTRYSIDE OR TUMBLING DOWN INLAND HILLS THAT ARE PROOF OF MAN’S ABILITY TO MAKE THE BEST OF NATURAL MATERIALS

Words: LUCY MAYER

CANDAL, SERRA DA LOUSÃ

A mountainous town full of similar looking stone houses, the Candal has become somewhat of a tourist attraction. Encompassing steep streets, which walkers climb in order to get the best vantage point from the top, on clear days they can enjoy beautiful views over the valley accompanied by the Ribeira do Candal. Benefitting from the ease of access provided by the National Highway, Candal is generally regarded as the most developed of the schist mountain villages, and is one of the most visited. The villagers who still live there are used to being joined by holiday and weekend visitors who flock to experience the village’s quaint ambience.

It’s thought the name Candal comes from the traditional art of stone working. The phrase “singing the stone” may have originated from “candar” and then Candal, the place where the stone is sung. Because of the nature of the terrain, it’s said that the layout of the houses was strategically planned in such a way so that access to them was always easily maintained, as well as access to sunlight.

CASA DO PENEDO (BOULDER HOUSE)

This strange looking building, Casa do Penedo, is more famously known as The Boulder House, or House of The Rock, because it looks, simply, like a large rock. Located in the Fafe, in the northern region of Portugal, the structure will mark its 49th anniversary in October. A massive tourist attraction, the house was designed to be perfectly integrated into the landscape and to serve as a family shelter. It was originally used by the owners as a holiday destination, however, it is now the site of a small museum. Visitors can interact with nature, stargaze, or just enjoy the peace that comes from being surrounded by clean mountain air.

At one time, Boulder House was considered to be the “strangest house in the world.” The two storey house is small in size with a kitchen and living room incorporating rustic furnishings and a sofa made of concrete. Phone giant Samsung decided to capitalise on the remoteness of the property and, as part of the launch of the Samsung Galaxy Note 9, created the first ‘in the middle of nowhere’ co-working space to demonstrate how smartphone features make it possible to work from anywhere.

The experience of the five guests recruited for the campaign by Samsung has been documented in a number of videos.

Hidden deep inside the Serra do Açor you’ll find the historic slatestone village of Piódão. Almost all houses here are made from typical slate stone, and many of them were plastered over by their owners because the slate material was considered “poor man’s stone.” The houses underwent a restoration process from the late 1970s and the village was then given Portuguese protected status. The houses were built huddled together on the hillsides for protection against the elements, especially the wind, and the doors and window frames are all an eyecatching, uniform blue colour. The story goes that the villagers found a big barrel of blue paint in the isolated village and began painting as a form of protection from the weather.

Reaching this village means hiking through the small alleys that connect it, which makes it popular with both nature and sports enthusiasts. Nearby, the waterfall, Fraga da Pena, sits inside the national protected area called Mata da Margaraça which is home to rare mushrooms, trees and flowers.

CASTELO DOS MOUROS

One of Portugal’s most treasured buildings, the Moorish Castle in Sintra is not only a majestic site, but it has played an important part in the country’s military history. Founded in the 10th century, its walls snake around the hills that surround it, and would keep those inside safe from attack. They also acted as a barrier, protecting the maritime access to the city of Lisbon.

The Moors lived there until 1147, when Sintra was handed over to Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, following his conquest of the cities of Lisbon and Santarém. The Muslim population was surrendered to the Christian forces, and eventually, the Islamic Quarter disappeared and gave way to a medieval village which was occupied until the 15th century. This village was part of the Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim, built between the two belts of walls.

The castle has been the subject of archaeological excavations since the 1970s, which has led to numerous discoveries about the history of the place and the people who lived there. UNESCO classified the Cultural Landscape of Sintra as a World Heritage Site in 1995, of which the beautiful and traditional Moorish Castle is a fundamental element.

DOLMEN-CHAPEL OF SÃO BRISSOS

This unusual little chapel, dating from the 17th century, looks more like a medieval stone hut than a chapel. Located in the village of São Brissos in the municipality of Montemor-o-Novo, it is situated at the end of a dirt track and surrounded by countryside. Dolmens are best described as sacred monuments made of standing stones topped off with a roof stone and they appear throughout Western Europe. The Anta-Chapel incorporates three of the original pillars, as well as part of the original roof of the chamber, and the small building has been classified as a National Monument since 1910.

Meanwhile, in the Alentejo, in the municipality of Évora, you’ll find the Portuguese equivalent of Stonehenge – The Cromlech of the Almendres. Here, a number of life-sized oval shaped stones are arranged in the earth in such a way that they are aligned to the heavens. The construction of these stones is believed to date back to the 6th millennium BC but they laid undiscovered until 1966 when Henrique Leonor Pina, who was carrying out field work relating to the country’s geological charts, came across them. But anyone wishing to visit the “Portuguese Stonehenge” should be warned that they are situated far off the beaten track where there is no public transport.

SORTELHA, GUARDA

One of Portugal’s oldest villages, the hamlet of Sortelha in Guarda is surrounded by a reconstructed medieval fortress. Situated strategically on top of a rocky hill, it is the oldest one linked to the strongholds that were used to defend the border east of Guarda and Covilhã. Today, visitors can enjoy a leisurely walk around the walls taking in the many houses that make up the neighbourhood. The old stone castle sits at the very top of the village with the area beneath it mainly untouched and unspoiled. Located in Concelho do Sebugal in the Beira Alta province, Sortelha sits between the famous Serra da Estrela and the Reserva Natural da Serra da Malcata. The rustic stone houses have been restored and now act as holiday homes for tourists. The 13th-century castle is Sortelha’s main attraction, dating back to the reign of King Sancho II, the successor of King Sancho, who repopulated the town in the 12th century. Visitors are encouraged to choose a pair of comfortable shoes and climb up to the tower for breathtaking views of Sortelha and its surrounding fields and wind turbines.

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Bold, bright and brilliant

WHEN IT COMES TO COLOUR IN THE GARDEN, GENTLE SHADES OF PINK AND PURPLE ARE FIRST CHOICE FOR MANY. BUT NOT FOR EVERYONE. A BLAZE OF ORANGE UNDER THE HOT SUN SETS A WHOLE DIFFERENT SCENE

Words: BURFORD HURRY

AS A CONFIRMED gardener, I arrived in the Algarve from South Africa in 1986 to ironically begin a new life in a two-bedroomed apartment with a large terrace in Loulé. I arrived – as gardeners do – with a large paper packet of fresh pawpaw seeds, some bulbs, and a tiny hybrid Strelitzia reginae in a small plastic yoghurt cup. Undaunted, I believed I would grow everything I grew in South Africa: I had a lot to learn yet.

My first birthday present given to me by a close friend in Faro was a plant in a large pot that was not only gorgeous but also spot-on appropriate. She was a clivia (Clivia Miniata) with a flower head which was so bright it could have been forged of glowing orange coals, but instead was all petals and translucent beauty, perfectly set off by her proud, stiff, dark green shiny leaves. She was appropriate in more ways than one – not only was I familiar with her as a fellow native of South Africa, but also because orange just happens to be one of my favourite colours. It was love at first sight.

Why orange and not red? Orange for me is a colour of happiness. I know that it has some significance in Eastern religions and is associated with the robes dyed with saffron and turmeric of Buddhist priests. That may be, but I like to think I reached my love of orange independently.

But to return to my clivia. She is with me still. When we moved from a brand new apartment building to another apartment that we had bought and renovated in a centuries-old manor house with a quintal in the historic quarter of Loulé, she travelled with us. However, this time in a more elegant larger plastic container. Every spring she would delight us with her flowers.

A community thing

Then one March, the Catholic Sisters of the local matriz church approached me and asked me whether I would be prepared to have a series of three religious meetings in our apartment. I was astonished to say the least as neither Richard nor I had ever put a foot over the threshold of the church. Besides that, our kitchen/sitting room was tiny. Perfect. There were stairs. No problem. So the event took place. Every evening at least 20 people crammed into the kitchen and even spilled out onto the veranda. And the clivia tucked into a corner of the assembly put on a breathtaking nightly display with three magnificent crowns of orange. So much so that Madalena, a neighbour and a participant, begged for a plant.

Since then, every year when her clivia is in flower, Madalena calls me aside to give me her thanks. She in turn has divided up her clivia and given plants away. Now, I like to think that glorious glowing orange illuminates the lanes of the historic quarter of Loulé, bringing pleasure to those who live there.

Today, on the home front, I have my gorgeous girl in a cluster of other clivias in containers in the shade of the olive and carob trees. They all provide a sumptuously ethereal orange bank of colour every March.

The other South African ‘orange’ link is my strelitzia. As she grew, so did the size of her containers until eventually today she has her roots in the ground. Bred by a friend in Zimbabwe, she is a bolder, larger version of the usual S. reginae with the same strong lovely colours of orange and dark blue. She also often produces twin beaks of elegant flowers borne on one stalk. Those beaks resonate with the name of crane flower that she is often called. I immediately think of the graceful grey crowned cranes of the Transkei, dancing on an Indian Ocean beach with their shimmering golden crowns and the simple slash of clear orange on their wings.

An orange flowering South African shrub that I should have but don’t yet, is Leonotis leonurus. She has thin tall reedy stems of dark lance-shaped green leaves with whorls of fresh tubular orange flowers up each stem. She likes full sun, some water and if well-groomed is always a cheerful occasional addition to any herbaceous border.

Full-on colour

While on the topic of plants from South Africa, I cannot forget my two favourite succulents. First the orange ice plant Lampranthus aurantiacus with its dazzling satiny petals and her dark green, fat, needle-like leaves. She provides a perfect splash of sparkling spring colour as she flows between the rocks in a garden. Easy to grow from woody cutting, she flourishes in soils with a sandy or rocky texture but will grow in almost any well drained soil type, tolerating exposure to salt and thriving in coastal conditions. My other favourite is the Aloe striata, which is an aloe with smooth thornless lucious jade green leaves, her orange pink flowers – usually described as coral red –appear during the winter months in tall flat-topped parasols of colour. A. striata grows in a wide variety of climatic conditions provided she is planted in a well-drained situation in full sun, and not over-watered. She can withstand extreme frost and prolonged drought.

If you are looking for something even bolder and brighter but equally water wise then think no further than Streptosolen jamesonii. I had long been familiar with this shrub but I hadn’t realised her full potential until I saw her thriving on a vast south facing sloping field in Gorjões – she had been grown together with plants almost exclusively from the nursery of Olivier Filippi in Mèze, France. Her low full rounded body of symmetrical bright orange and yellow flowers in a field of hazy mediterranean greys, soft pinks and shades of blue came almost as a shock. Think palette- knife applications of acrylic colour rather than delicate watercolour brush strokes, she definitely makes a strong floral statement. She also makes a very strong water-wise statement as like the other plants in this field she grows only on rain water. There is an orange bougainvillea too that I am very fond of. I have planted her so that she spills down and cascades over a wall onto the middle terrace to kiss the stiff bronzy petals of a cymbidium orchid. Soft orange against a stone wall in a hot summer sun and only a few metres away from where my resident bats have found a safe crevice in which to sleep during the day.

And finally, during the summer my one and only orange tree scatters a foliage space in the viewing garden with ripe oranges when, earlier in the year, she filled the entire garden with her perfume just when my clivias and strelitzia were taking their floral bow. Her perfume always reminds me how much poorer I would be without my glowing splashes of heavenly orange.

PlanZAfrica is a valuable and practical source of information on the growing of South Africian plants. The nursery and garden of Olivier Filippi in Mèze is one of the ex-libris of dry gardening. It is situated along the coast, a little way from Montpelier in France and offers more than 1,000 species of Mediterranean plants for sale.

Previous page: Clivia. This page above: leonotis leonurus; left: Strelitzia

My orange bougainvillea cascades over a wall to kiss the stiff bronzy petals of a cymbidium orchid, a few metres away from where my resident bats have found a safe crevice in which to sleep during the day.

EDUCATED at the University of Seville, after his graduation Pedro Rodriguez

Garrido often found himself drawn to cities, attracted by their technology, diversity, vibrancy and complex infrastructures.

Inspired by urban artists such as Edward Hopper and Richard Estes, when he visited the USA it was the landscapes of New York that especially appealed. Often working from the top of tall buildings, he captures the continuous motion of busy highways, painting realistic depictions of this living, breathing city. So convincing are his paintings that some critics claim you can hear the traffic and the rhythms of pedestrians’ footsteps, feel the wind as it passes by and smell the smoke and asphalt! These comments require an imagination that is more vivid than my own, nevertheless it is undeniable that he observes and recreates perfect perspective.

The challenge of giving an illusion of depth and distance is an essential component; a problem that was encountered by Leonardo Da Vinci. He invented a machine called a perspectograph, a pane of glass in a frame that contained a small viewing slot. Placed in front of the scene, Leonardo would look through the slot with one eye and sketch the outline onto the pane of glass. This would then be the initial sketch for the painting. German artist, Albrecht Durer, published illustrations of similar perspective machines encouraging other artists to make

Your very favourite city and what makes it special?

Perhaps New York, although after my last trip to Seoul, to present my first solo show in South Korea, I have been fascinated by its great avenues and buildings.

Influences? The urban landscape of Manhattan has a special charm, the atmosphere of the city, the grey of the streets, how the light falls through the buildings, the people walking, the colours of Times

one. Vincent van Gogh had a perspective frame with grid lines and adjustable legs that he praised for being quick and easy to use. Writing to his brother he stated, “It (the perspective frame) enables one to draw quick as lightning – and, once the drawing is done, to paint quick as lightning too.”

Establishing the perspective of a panoramic view onto a flat plane is Garrido’s starting point, then building up the picture with layer upon layer of oil paint. Often he will drag quite dry paint across the surface, which creates a textured finish. His palette uses cool, soft tones producing a strange quality of moisture clinging to the air while dark skies and grey tarmac offer contrast. A few well chosen marks translate into a passing car, touches of colour hint at traffic lights and sweeping brushstrokes reflect headlights on a wet road. The finished paintings drip with atmosphere.

It will come as no surprise to learn that Garrido’s paintings have been exhibited in many cities including Barcelona, Bath, Brussels, Córdoba, Goteborg, Granada, Hong Kong, Lisbon, London, Madrid, Marbella, Miami, Moscow, Seoul, Stockholm, St. Petersburg and Valencia as well as Seville, where he was trained and Huelva, where he was born.

Currently his paintings are displayed at Galeria Côrte-Real on the outskirts of the protected village of Paderne. The short journey from the EN125 to Paderne follows a route through some charming Algarve countryside.

Square… large number of stimuli that have made it the most represented city in my pieces.

Do you photograph scenes first? I usually capture images and from there I work with absolute freedom to interpret that reality, without sticking too closely to the image and avoiding a mimetic representation.

Your favourite sky, and time of day Normally sunset and nightfall, where forms are

lost and light and colour take centrestage.

Huelva today? Huelva has been transformed in recent years into a modern city. It’s a good place to live, with enormous resources, beach, gastronomy, mountains, cultural events and great potential to be exploited.

Your preferred medium? Oil on canvas, although I also work on other supports such as wood and paper, with mixed techniques.

HOME PLUS

Bringing the

HEN I FIRST entered my traditional farmhouse, just outside of Tavira, almost four years ago to the day, I did not completely understand the why and how of Portuguese architecture. As a commercial photographer, who has built a career lighting interior spaces, my natural sensibilities took over. The dark coolness of the days was a welcome relief, but my first thought was that I needed to bring the outside in.

I have always been attracted to the rustic outdoor landscaping surrounding my quinta and the neighbouring homes. I am well aware

that the houses were built to be cool on hot summer days, and warmer in the cold winter nights. But, as much as I loved my house, I had a vision and needed to act on it if I was going to be able to stay there.

As I embarked on a simple project of replacing a few faulty kitchen tiles, it went from a one-month quickfix project to a year-long escapade. There has been significant removal of submerged and broken pipes, many a tree root and finally, some more than adequate progress of rebuilding. I was determined to create a space that would work with the traditional style of the house but introduce a more modern vibe, while keeping the authenticity of what the Algarve has to offer.

A special partnership

Then, every once in a while, you meet someone whose artistic chemistry is unmatched. For me, it was Ângelo Encarnação. A contemporary painter, I had heard of him long before meeting him. And one day he was standing in my driveway, helping a friend with a project in my yard. I like to chat and to get to know people. I like to talk about their ideas and I want to know what inspires them and what they are passionate about. After a few conversations, I knew he was a sort of kindred spirit.

Coming from a small town in the United States, similar to the size of Faro, I made a living shooting and directing for international clients with tight timelines and usually more than strict guidelines. Ângelo was born in Tavira, and has journeyed through the landscapes of Europe painting what he is inspired by. There can sometimes be a big rift

TURNING THE BIG EMPTY SPACES OF AN OLD ALGARVIAN FARMHOUSE INTO A LIVING WORK OF ART WAS NOT THE ORIGINAL INTENTION. BUT INSPIRED THINKING AND THE PERFECT PARTNERSHIP TOOK OVER AND WROUGHT THEIR MAGIC

Words and pictures: KATHRYN BARNARD

in those two ideals. But, we connected over many familiar beliefs. And one evening, over a bottle of wine and some small fried fish, we started discussing his painting and my remodelling plans.

I asked him if he would be interested in creating murals in my unfinished space. He would have carte blanche and we would throw a casual art installation and party. It would be a one-evening event and then we would paint over them and go back to the simple minimalist design I had envisioned. Most likely, due to the fact that it was towards the end of the bottle of wine, he happily agreed! We picked a date, and gave ourselves six weeks.

The next weekend, after a few hours of looking at the walls he turned to me and said: “I want to bring the outside in.” Exactly what I had said four years previously. It was perfect. He completely understood the house and my desire, without knowing anything of my vision.

As the weeks progressed, I realised that moving an artist into a current working remodel wasn’t as easy as I thought. So, we waited. As we

pondered the details of the party, Ângelo was very gracious and every once in a while would comment about how he needed to start painting. But he was extremely patient and used his energy to create a series of bird stamps to start promoting the event, and used them to make cards and personalise our cups and napkins for the party. He used recycled cardboard to make birds of different species for the walls and made amazing replicas of my kittens, James and Henri for the murals.

The day finally arrived and he was able to get inside and start painting. It was then that he truly realized what he had taken on and just how big these walls actually were and how little time he had. We used the paint and primer from Richimi Factory, the company supplying the plaster, paint and micro cement, a multitude of brushes and tints, and old plates and cups to act as artists’ palettes.

With no actual windows installed yet, it was still quite cold in the evenings. So, the fire burned and the music played. It was extremely enjoyable to see a house that had been cold and dark for months have some warmth and life in it. I was able to imagine what it will be like once the dust settles and it’s finally a home again.

Taking shape, setting a style

Watching him work was truly fascinating. He started on one wall and then moved to another after a few days, standing back from scene to scene, looking from afar, and sometimes tweaking very small details to completely re-imagine what he had done previously. He did it completely freehand and off photos he took or ones I would supply. After several hours, I would reluctantly retire for the evening and give him space.

He often paintied until the early hours of the morning – we were like ships passing in the night. During these few weeks, it was like Christmas every morning. I would walk in and see what had transpired, sometimes dismayed because one of my favourite scenes had been transformed, at other times amazed at what had been created.

As the weeks progressed, it was also enjoyable to watch the guys working on the house walk in every morning and look at the walls. I knew the murals were doing what they were ultimately intended to do when I saw them taking pictures to send to their families back home, and I would hear them chat excitedly about what they were seeing for the first time.

During the painting, Ângelo would take a much-needed and welldeserved break from the murals. He would spend time feeding and tending to my newly-acquired pet pigs, making sure they had a comfortable house to sleep in or a cooling mud pit in which to bury themselves. In the end, the pigs made it to the walls as well, with their subtle personalities showing through.

Branching out

It was then that I started thinking about one last detail. I kept looking at the vast empty spaces and wanted to add something more. Something tangible. I had been in love with this tree on my property – an old almond tree, twisted and worn with years of wind, rain and heat embedded in its story.

I kept envisioning it inside one of my new rooms; I knew it would fit, maybe not in its original form, but it would fit. I had my landscapers come, and with both of us to guide them, they cut the limbs, one by one. Carefully, they marked each cut on both sides so we could re-create its shape. Two days later, a beautiful piece of art had been created.

I was inspired by the idea of the tree of my old neighbour in Seattle. I was always wandering the streets with my dogs and would get ideas from creative people surviving lockdown.

This one house had an old tree and used it to create a ‘Tree of Hope and Inspiration.’ The owners set up a table with cards and pens. People stopped by and wrote their thoughts – a poem perhaps, or a little work of art. They would then hang them on the tree and others would stop and read the multitude of messages.

My hope was to create the same for this event, and to offer an interactive experience with the cards using the bird stamps that Ângelo had created.

In the end, the final touches were being added until the moment the guests arrived. It was a beautiful spring evening, and, as a bird of prey hovered above my garden, looking for its evening meal, the sun set and lit up the heron and flamingoes on the back wall of my future kitchen.

Needless to say, my walls have not, and probably now will never be painted. I am now imagining my house with these immensely colourful murals full of life, love and memories that created the Outside In experience. I couldn’t wish for anything more.

You can see more of Ângelo’s work at @angeloencart, more of Kathryn’s work at @kathrynbarnardphoto, and their collaboration at @outside_in_tavira

Every wall tells its own story, rich in local scenes and warming the atmosphere in this old farmhouse up in the hills that has gone from empty space to magic and intriguing

THE SALES OF AIR FRYERS ARE SOARING - UP 300% IN THE PAST YEAR. DISCOVERING A NEW WAY TO COOK THAT SAVES ON TIME AND POWER CONSUMPTION IS HUGELY APPEALING, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU FIND THE RECIPES THAT ARE FAR REMOVED FROM CHICKEN AND CHIPS

HARISSA CHICKEN GYROS

Serves 3

INGREDIENTS

 2 tbsp harissa paste

 juice of 1 lemon

 1 tsp paprika

 1 tsp Cajun seasoning

 1 tsp ground cumin

 500g skinless, boneless chicken thighs

 salt and pepper, to taste

 3 supermarket gyros, flatbreads or pittas

 handful of rocket

 3 tbsp pomegranate seeds

 small handful of pickled red onions (shop-bought)

FOR THE SAUCE

 5 heaped tbsp Greek yoghurt

 juice of 1 lemon

 2 garlic cloves, crushed

METHOD

1 Combine the harissa, lemon juice, paprika, Cajun seasoning, cumin and salt and pepper in a bowl. Coat the chicken with this mixture.

2 If you can, preheat the air fryer for 2–3 minutes because adding the chicken to the hot drawer will give it an extra bit of char. Air-fry at 200°C for 12 minutes

3 While the chicken is cooking, combine the yoghurt with the lemon juice and crushed garlic cloves.

4 Heat the gyros or flatbreads and assemble, stuffing with the chicken and rocket and drizzling over the yogurt sauce, then top with the pomegranate seeds and pickled red onions.

SWEET POTATO & CHORIZO HASH

Serves 3

INGREDIENTS

 600g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes

 1 tbsp oil or low-calorie oil spray

 1 tbsp paprika

 150g chorizo, sliced

 1 tbsp light or half-fat butter

 ½ tsp chilli flakes

 1 garlic clove, grated

 4 tbsp Greek yoghurt

 salt and pepper, to taste

 fresh dill, to sprinkle

METHOD

AIR FRYER SPECIALS RECIPES of the month...

1 In a bowl, combine the sweet potatoes, oil and paprika.

2 Air-fry the potatoes at 190°C for 14–15 minutes and add the chorizo for the last 2–3 minutes.

3 While the chorizo is cooking, put the butter, chilli and garlic in a microwaveable bowl and microwave for 1 minute until the butter is melted.

4 Season the yoghurt with salt and pepper.

5 Serve the hash drizzled with the yoghurt, then top with the melted garlic chilli butter and sprinkle with fresh dill. If you fancy, add a poached egg or two and serve with a slice of toasted sourdough bread.

These recipes are from a great selection in Bored of Lunch: the Healthy Air Fryer Book, by Anthony Nathan (Ebury Press), from FNAC

The museum city EVORA I

N ACQUA VERITAS SPA: Located near Giraldo Square, this spa can provide a pampering treat at the end of a day exploring. Soak up the Roman atmosphere and wonder at the architecture whilst taking care of those aching feet. Three differently heated pools will aid in the restoration of your physical wellbeing and the soothing of your mind. If you really want to create a special moment, add in a massage and enjoy some local wine and nibbles, all at a surprisingly reasonable price. Just make sure to finish in the frigidarium to ensure a spark of rejuvenation to gear you up for a delicious dinner! inacquaveritas.com

Giraldo Square: One of the best things to do in Évora is to sit and watch the daily bustling of people, soaking up the atmosphere of this lively city. Giraldo Square is a perfect point

to relax and admire the famous marble fountain which has eight spouts that represent the city’s major streets that lead into the square. You will be spoilt for choice when it comes to cafés and bars. evoraportugaltourism.com/guide/praca-de-giraldo.html Prata Aqueduct: Why not tailor-make a tour of various historical artefacts and points of interest? In an area such as Évora, you could design your own plan and take in various historical time periods. It will soon become clear why Évora is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Prata Aqueduct is awe-inspiring for its sheer scale and impressive construction. From Giraldo Square many features of the aqueduct can be viewed, including the water box on Rua Nova and various fountains and tanks. If you are looking to up your daily step count, then head off following the aqueduct and enjoy the Évora Nature Trail for a beautiful dose of nature and antiquity rolled into one. visitevora.net/en/agua-prata-aqueduct-evora/

After a day’s serious sightseeing take some YOU time. There’s nowhere better than in the spa, In Acqua Veritas, where the surroundings will amaze you and the treatments will set you up for tomorrow

EVORA’S NICKNAME IS APTLY DESCRIPTIVE – THE HISTORIC CAPITAL OF THE ALENTEJO REGION HAS A BEAUTIFULLY PRESERVED TOWN CENTRE, CROWNED BY THE FAMOUS ROMAN TEMPLE. OUR TOP TEN LIST OF THINGS TO DO THROUGHOUT THE AREA ONLY SCRATCHES THE SURFACE OF THIS STUNNING GEM

Words: LAURA SHEA

Capela Dos Ossos: A thought-provoking visit to the largest bone chapel in Portugal should be on the list of any first time visitor to Evora. Perhaps uncomfortable when you first enter, the St Francis Church is arguably one of the most beautiful displays of this kind of religious monument in Europe. Designed to make us ruminate on the fragility of life itself, the inscription that sits above the threshold is poignant: “We bones that are here, await yours”. However, this is not for the fainthearted as there are two entire skeletons hanging from the ceiling at one point, which many first-timers feel are gruesome. The church and museum are stunning, and your entry ticket to the chapel grants access to both. igrejadesaofrancisco.pt/

Wine Tours: The Alentejo is famed across the world for its production of great wines, and it would almost be criminal to visit Évora and not take in a tasting or two. If driving, then you

have a multitude of options available on the way in and out of the city. Alternatively, visit one closer to the centre and make the most of the offerings. Rota dos Vinhos do Alentejo is a great place to start and can easily fit into a full day of touristy delights. Once you discover your favourite wine from the region, make sure to grab a couple of bottles to take home to prolong the vibes of Évora. vinhosdoalentejo.pt/

Alqueva Dam and star gazing: Europe’s largest artificial lake is absolutely worth a visit. You can hire a fully kitted out houseboat and spend your time enjoying life on the water for a couple of days before or after your time in the heat of the city. A short training session and some recommendations on where to sail and what to see is all that you need for this adventure. Spend the days relaxing, swimming and bird watching, then for the evening head to any number of lakeside restaurants for a delicious meal. Once happily on-board after dinner, lay back on the deck and view the stars; the Alqueva Dark Sky Reserve holds the Starlight Tourism Destination Certificate from the Starlight Foundation. visitevora.net/en/alquevahouseboatsactivities-alentejo

Hot Air Ballooning: Adrenaline junkies will find a trip to the skies worthwhile. Look down on the surrounding countryside, the rolling fields and the rainbow of colours that can only truly be appreciated from this vantage point. Nature fans will be on the lookout for a variety of bird species, as well as hares which can be spotted on the plains. A glide towards the city itself will take your breath away as you look down on to the medieval walls surrounding the old town, the perfectly positioned small streets and the famous Roman temple (wrongly called the Diana Temple) and a focal point of the city. This experience is tranquil, beautiful and exhilarating all at once, and one that will not be forgotten easily.

balonissimo.com/

Food and Drink: Being a huge fan of good food and drink,

and the atmosphere that comes with local eateries, I like to flit from café to bar to restaurant whenever I get away to a new place. You can learn a lot about life in a city depending on where you visit to quench your thirst or fill your tum. Follow recommendations from people you meet whilst out and about, and try to wander down interesting backstreets to find authentic experiences rather than the usual tourist traps. Évora has several highly-regarded cake shops and cafés, and wine bars become a popular hangout from late afternoon. Sit outside on beautiful terraces and patios and breathe in the lively ambience. Rua 5 de Outubro has a wealth of options, some with live music. Some tastes not to be missed are the famous porco preto (black pork), migas doces (sweet bread pudding) and acorda (bread stew).

Cultural Centre Forum Eugênio De Almeida: A trip to the Cultural Centre is a must. Not only a beautiful space, the building is home to ever-changing displays, performances, exhibitions and cinema. Venture outside and spend time in the stunning gardens, but make sure to check opening times and what is available to view when visiting, and break up the exploring with a trip to the restaurant for some delicious wines and a snack. fea.pt/

Arraiolos: A side trip to the alluring village of Arraiolos, just 20 minutes away, shouldn’t be missed. The castle is striking due to its unusual round shape, and a wander inside the walls grants you stunning views, and glimpses of cork oaks from the towers. Arraiolos is a popular stop on the map of the Alentejo for another reason – its intricate, hand crafted rugs. Next month, 7–12 June, sees the hugely popular O Tapete Está na Rua event, where the history and artistry of the village’s rugs is celebrated. Wander the streets and take in the various styles and designs of carpets and visit one of the workshops to see first-hand how these pieces of art come to life. visitarraiolos.pt

Previous page, main picture: the In Acqua Veritas spa; inset: housing built within the arches of the Prata Aqueduct. This page, top left, clockwise: the individual style of Arraiolos carpets; hot air ballooning; the famous bone chapel; the city’s landmark Roman temple

Stylishly slow

NESTLED IN THE COBBLED STREETS AT THE HEART OF OLHÃO IS AN INTRIGUING INTERIOR DECORATION SHOP. RUN BY PARTNERS OLIVIER AND STÉPHANE, ZÉ E MARIA IS HOME TO TIMELESS PIECES THAT BLEND TRADITION WITH LAID-BACK MODERN CHIC

Words: SALLY DIXON

STEPPING INTO ZÉ E MARIA in the beautiful town of Olhão you can’t help but fall in love with its wonderfully curated edit of homewares and clothing. It was a store I discovered during what felt like a forbidden escape to Portugal in August 2020. In the brief time window that we were allowed to travel after the first wave of the pandemic, the only place I wanted to be was the Algarve, with its endless stretches of glorious beaches and immune-boosting fresh sea air. A little day trip to Olhão and I was fascinated by its meandering streets and wonderfully traditional vibe. Among the winding calçada lanes of the old town was a treasure trove of an interiors shop featuring clothing from the iconic Lisbon brand Superbo*. It seemed somewhat fitting that I purchase the ‘Liberadade’ grey sweatshirt from Zé e Maria, and to this day it remains my favourite comfy yet stylish throw on.

Early beginnings

Born in Bordeaux to parents from Northern Portugal, Zé e

This is a store that is packed with original pieces, carefully selected from a small group of suppliers from Portugal and elsewhere is Europe to whom creativity is a top priority

Maria founder Olivier has lived in Olhão for six years, having spent most of his childhood holidays in the Algarve. Five years ago, he partnered with Olhão resident, Claudia Lichenstein, founder of architect agency, Saudade Algarve, to work on his 1920s townhouse. Claudia came from a background of Parisian fashion and interior design marketing when she decided to move to this glorious part of the Algarve to work on renovating some of the enchanting old fishermen’s houses. While focused on the redevelopment of Olivier’s property, both he and Claudia found it difficult to find their choice of interior decorations. And it was from that search that Zé e Maria was born. Olivier laughs: “I couldn’t find anything for my house. Interiors were my passion, so I opened an interior décor shop!” A delightful mix of French and Portuguese homeware brands, the likes of Jars Ceramistes and Casa Cubista, would become their signature style. “These two brands are the spirit of the shop as they represent the tradition of Portugal and the modernity of France,” he says.

Six months after the opening of Zé e Maria, Stéphane arrived on the scene. Hailing from Burgundy and a family of

French winemakers, he based himself in Tavira for three months. “When I arrived, I thought ‘wow I want to live here, do my photography and work on interiors’. One day I met Olivier and Claudia, they invited me to work on projects with the shop. The rest is history!”

The story took a tragic turn in 2021 with the death of Claudia. Stéphane recalls: “When Claudia died, we decided to continue the shop and the story together with courage.” What started with only French and Portuguese brands has grown to include ones from Belgium and Sweden.

A curated edit of hand-crafted pieces with a distinct house style, items are purchased in small quantities from the brands to ensure that the stock is always new and exciting. Stéphane says: “We have our own house style, so we look for Mediterranean themes with soft colours, woods, ceramics, natural products, organic cotton and no plastic.” The sustainable element is key to the personality and brand ethos of Zé e Maria, showcasing handmade Portuguese and European brands side by side.

A glorious variety

Ceramics, it seems, are Olivier’s destiny, his former profession being the kind of ceramics you put in your mouth rather than on the table. Yes, he was a dental ceramist in the South of France in his previous life! Aside from running the store with Olivier, Stéphane gets creative in his own right as a photographer.

In our March issue, you’ll have seen some great photos accompanying the article on tufting duo Sönmun – Stéphane was

responsible for some of these. His creative eye gets cast over brand websites, social media accounts, and interior decoration projects for Saudade Algarve.

“Photography is my passion, I love it,” he says, “For the interior decorations, we work together on ideas, I make some moodboards with our house style and then we get to work on the project. We like to include the spirit of Portugal, keeping it very natural with white, terracotta and the blue of the sky, but with a modern style.”

Collaborations with brands like Luz Editions enable the Zé e Maria store to carry some unique and interesting pieces. The limited edition collab saw the two brands come together to create three linen tea towels featuring screen-printed original photos of Olhão from the 50s and 60s by local photographer Artur Pastor. I simply couldn’t resist buying one when I recently visited the store!

Stéphane says: “The collaboration with Paula of Luz Editions was very special for me because when I met her, it was clear immediately that we had the same taste and style. The old pictures from Olhão are very special, I love them.”

From bed linen, tableware, candles and ceramics to clothing, bags, sunglasses and artwork, the concept of the store revolves around ‘slow living’. As Stéphane says, “Olhão is more and more popular with people like us who want to live the real Portuguese life, the element of slow living. We work a lot, but we are also on holiday at the same time, it’s the perfect balance – something we couldn’t find in France.”

Inspired by surroundings

A brand from Olhão itself has proved to be a best-seller for Zé e Maria. Casa Cubista (named after the cubist style of the fishing port due to its square buildings and roofs) is a brand that collaborates with family-owned businesses and traditional craftspeople. “We want to help share Portuguese handicrafts, because sometimes the Portuguese designers don’t have the platform to showcase their talent,” Olivier explains. On the clothing side is the uber cool Lemel Apparel, a 100% organic cotton brand born in the pandemic year and based out of Loulé.

With 85% of the store being taken up by Portuguese brands, Zé e Maria is really flying the flag for local and sustainable shopping.

The duo’s dream commission would be to work on the interior decoration of a boutique hotel or a particularly charming house (I’m already lining up Olivier and Stéphane to work on my own Algarvian getaway!). And of course, their own in-house brand of ceramics, bags and, potentially, clothing.

If you’re wondering where the inspiration for the name came from, Zé is the nickname for José, which together with Maria are the two most common names in Portugal. Olivier says, “As the shop was created by a man and a woman, it was important to retain the Portuguese soul in the name of the store.” More than just a shopper’s delight, Zé e Maria is a showcase of brands with inspiring stories behind every piece. And when you are able to visit, do make sure to check out the delightful goat paintings of Portimão-based, Dutch painter, Meinke Flesseman.

Olivier and Stéphane say that life in Olhão is an ongoing holiday. They search for unusual brands that are Portuguese through and through and have something special and charming and different to add to the decor equation. Their work is inspired by their surroundings

Since 2005 Grasshopper Greens has completed over 1500 projects in the Algarve. We are a specialist team, fully experienced in all areas of Synthetic Grass installation, offering you full design and fitting.

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BEAU BELLS

IN 1730, DOM JO Ã O V ASTOUNDED WORKERS IN A BELL FOUNDRY IN ANTWERP WHEN HE ORDERED AN ASTONISHING 120 BELLS – EACH WEIGHING AS MUCH AS NINE TONS – FOR WHAT HE PLANNED WOULD BE THE GRANDEST PALACE IN THE WORLD, MAFRA , NORTH OF LISBON

Words: CAROLYN KAIN

OM JOÃO V was boastful when he made the claim about the status of his palace, and it is true that his unprecedented order for 120 bells was queried. No one had ever placed such an enormous order before and to transport so many bells by horse and cart for a journey of more than 2,000 kilometres was to be an achievement in itself. But to this day the carillons at Mafra constitute the largest ensemble of bells in the world. And what is more, they continue to chime.

Contained in two enormous bell towers, each one 50 metres high, they flank the imposing façade of the palace. The building incorporates a basilica, a Franciscan monastery, several chapels, monks’ cells, banqueting halls and a library, as well as apartments for the king, queen and the royal court. There is nowhere quite like it in the rest of Portugal, and the entire complex is open to the public.

Before venturing inside, the best place to hear Mafra’s bells is on the praça before the main façade. The experience is unique. Between sunrise and sunset the carillon strikes on the hour, half hour and quarter hour.

Each of the two bell towers contains two systems that operate simultaneously. The first is a mechanical system driven by the clock. It moves bell hammers which strike colossal bronze cylinders to produce a melody. The second system is manual, relying upon a carillonneur to tap a keyboard with their hands and feet. Forming part of the Mafra experience the bell towers and the palace were inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2019.

Other bell towers with carillons that attempt to rival Mafra’s are the Clerigo Church in Porto and Fatima’s Basilica of our Lady. In the Algarve it is possible to climb 50 steps inside the bell tower of Faro’s Cathedral. Visitors who are at the top when the clock strikes the hour do not forget the experience!

Conversation – local bar in the village of Turquel, district of Alcobaça, 2020.

Comment: I can’t take much more of it. Bong, bong, bong.

Response: Much more of what?

More bells

From a satisfied tourist, a lightly edited quote from tripadvisor 2019

“What a piece of history. The Torre de Relógio (Clock Tower), located in the Old Town of Albufeira, has a bell supported by a curious wrought iron frame. It was once part of an 18th century hospital complex and very impressive too. There’s nothing I like better than sitting on the terrace of the Blue Bell pub with a cold bottle of Sagres while admiring the historic bell tower! Highly recommended.”

Comment: What do you think? The parish church and its wretched clock. I can’t sleep because of its infernal striking.

Response: It really doesn’t bother me. Haven’t you got used to it yet?

Comment: You’re joking. All through the night, every night. Do they have to chime twice? At 5am I have to listen to ten bongs; at 6am there are 12. On and on Response: It’s traditional for it to do it twice. Ours isn’t the only church in Portugal to do that or to keep on chiming through the night.

Comment: What’s even worse is it’s also donging on the half hour. I’ve had enough. I’m going to speak to the priest. I really have to complain.

Response: It’s up to you, amigo, but you’ll be unpopular with the rest of the village. Those chimes are part of our identity. Day and night from birth to death, life wouldn’t be the same without them.

This extraordinary situation really happened and was finally resolved last year when the church authorities agreed to silence the church bells between 22:00 and 08:00. Many locals objected to this break with tradition citing other villages where church clocks toll more frequently throughout the entire night. Once at 15 minutes after the hour, twice on the half hour and thrice every 45 minutes past the hour. For good measure some also peal at sunrise and sunset.

In the case of funerals, many church bells hold firmly to tradition chiming the death knell six times for a woman and nine times for a man. This is followed by one chime for each year of the deceased person’s life.

Making such announcements is an important role but of equal value are the rapid and continuous chimes that invite the faithful to attend mass. Some larger churches are able to play entire musical melodies for celebrations such as Easter, weddings and baptisms.

Traditionalists might object when they discover that, in some cases, the sound of real bells has been replaced by recordings and PA systems. Heading for the Complaints Book they will find that, like the bells, it too has gone electronic. Time does not stand still.

To this day the carillons at Mafra constitute the largest ensemble of bells in the world. And whatis more, they continue to chime.

Visitors can climb up to the bell tower of Faro’s Cathedral. The views are spectacular but when the bells chime the sound is overwhelming

BETWEEN HEAVEN

YOU CAN’T GET MORE CREATIVE THAN VISUAL ARTIST, ARCHITECT, PHOTOGRAPHER AND MUSICIAN JINA NEBE. THE RICH TAPESTRY OF HER LIFE IS A CONSTANTLY UNFOLDING STORY OF INTRIGUE AND INSPIRATION

Words: SALLY DIXON

AS AN EIGHT-YEAR-OLD child in Prague, Jina Nebe vividly remembers her art teacher instructing the class to paint a cherry tree in full blossom. “I started painting and I was acutely aware of the pleasure I felt,” she recalls fondly.

“My paternal grandfather was an amateur realist painter, and I loved the smell of oil paint, it was a scent that I found magical.” At that young age, Jina was charmed by the fact that something beautiful could be created out of nothing, that a blank canvas could be transformed into something to treasure.

Her love of art, and geometry, deepened at age 16 with the help of another art teacher, Czech surrealist painter Ladislav Motl, who was persecuted by the regime. “He taught me descriptive geometry, art history and explained to me how to draw perfect, soft, living lines,” she says. Family would also play an important part in shaping Jina’s creative side. The influence of two family members inspired the main artistic

passions in her life, that of visual arts, thanks to her grandfather, and a love of music from her choir-singer father. “As the family tomboy, I always wanted to live several lives, to practice several professions and, therefore, to experience several identities.” And she did just that. At the age of ten, Jina took classical guitar lessons; at 18 she sang in a rock band; at 21 she was a founding member in the first female jazz trio of the Original Prague Syncopated Orchestra in Prague and at 46 she created a musical show performed in Brussels, Prague, and Portugal.

Despite her affinity for music, Jina felt inspired to study architectural engineering when she realised that it was a discipline where you draw a lot and that while you were working you could listen to music! The perfect combo.

As an architecture student in Prague, Jina met French architect Guy Naizot during his visit to the city; that meeting led to a scholarship at the Paris-La Villette School of Architecture in France several years later. The scholarship opened doors for her to work on prestigious architectural projects in Paris and on the construction of transatlantic ships in Saint-Nazaire.

Following the fall of the Berlin Wall and the change of political regimes in Central Europe, a job as director of technical cooperation programmes for the 11 Central European countries took Jina to Brussels, and subsequently as a quality assurance consultant to healthcare institutions in France, Belgium and Czech Republic.

Throughout her professional working life Jina held on to a perpetual curiosity for art and the natural world, a curiosity that would see her venture into many different mediums and journey through many different countries, documenting her travels along the way through art and photography.

Encounters in her early days with clandestine circles of artists, theorists and philosophers banned by the regime in former Czechoslovakia guided her towards alternative research and thinking. She says: “Since I have always worked in parallel in the two worlds of visual art and music, I have become an architect who draws, paints and makes music.” Thus, her multifaceted expression of creativity began to take shape.

Taking inspiration

As a young artist, Jina was strongly influenced by the art movements of the late 19th and early 20th century – Fauvism, Expressionism, Cubism, Surrealism, abstract art, and the work of artists such as Kandinsky, Malevich, Braque, Picasso, De Chirico, Moholy-Nagy, Ernst and Kupka, as well as the Bauhaus movement.

“These artists and movements had an impact then and still do today, on how I look at creation in a global way,” she says. “With the teachings of all these artists and schools, I don’t bother with formal questions about whether an image is figurative or abstract. These are categories that have no meaning for me.”

Since 1995 Jina has exhibited her work in solo exhibitions around the world, her first exhibition being at the age of 37. Jina’s work between 2012 and 2016 dealt with the insular, oceanic, climatic elements of the nature of island destinations including Mauritius, Rodrigues, Madagascar, Comoros, Lanzarote and Pico. Her depictions of cane fields in Mauritius are particularly mesmerising, with her aesthetically pleasing use of colour and pattern.

and their elements as seen from above; meandering rivers, the crests of dunes, the twists and turns of roads, the geometric lines of the Algarve salt pans. “Whether the earth is shaped by human hands or by natural phenomena, I set out to capture its carnal and abstract force to make it visible in each of my creations,” she says with enthusiasm. “In the aerial views of the Chadian, Ethiopian and Iraqi deserts, I found the perfect, supple and lively lines that my teacher Ladislav Motl used to tell us about with passion.”

And in the here and now Fast-forward to today and Jina’s collaboration with Loulé Criativo is equally fascinating. At the beginning of 2020 she was accepted as

isolation to researching different practices like ceramic making, textile printing, and cork-work through the internet. Jina’s handson approach to learning new skills has seen her create azulejos, ceramics and silk-screen printed textiles through collaborations with local factories, galleries and craftspeople. She reflects: “Throughout my life I have been lucky enough to make decisive encounters that have helped me to pursue and realise my dreams.”

I can only imagine that her private atelier in the hills outside Tavira is a hive of constant artistic activity!

The latest addition to her artistic repertoire is a collection of unique table textiles featuring original handmade embroidery inspired by her surroundings. Of course, she’s currently working on several other collaboration projects. One is with handmade azulejo production workshop, Aresta Viva, led by Rui and Maria Mascarenhas in Faro. Together they plan to launch a limitededition series of azulejos with drawings relating to the Algarve region, available to interior stores and souvenir shops. Another project in the making is the creation of ceramics with Alessa Dresel, owner of Studio Ayshek and fellow

For many years though, the main source of inspiration for Jina’s work has been the earth as seen from the sky, referenced from her own photography during countless aeroplane flights; flights that were part of her professional working life. The fact that her name, Nebe, means ‘heaven’ or ‘sky’ might have something to do with her fondness for being in the air. She laughs: “I know exactly where to sit on the plane now to get the perfect picture, not too close to the wing or the engine, very often between rows 23 and 25, and always a window seat!” As a self-confessed perpetual aisle seat traveller, I’m now feeling somewhat inspired to take the window seat on my next trip and see what Jina sees.

Her works carry the intimate imprint of the countries she has flown over, landscapes

a designer in residence at Loulé Design Lab with her project Real Presences. Blurring the lines between art and design, her aim was to create prototypes of everyday objects and produce them in collaboration with Portuguese craftspeople and manufacturers. Jina uses linocut, drawing or painting to create from images captured during her air travel.

“I seek a new visual identity for the Portuguese nature and regions that inspire me — the meanders of the Ria Formosa, the geometry of the Algarve salt pans, the paths of Serra do Caldeirão or the erosion of the Azores islands,” she says.

As the start of her residency coincided with the start of the Covid-19 pandemic, searching for fellow craftspeople to collaborate with became impossible and so she dedicated the

resident at Loulé Design Lab.

On the photography side, an upcoming exhibition, À Fleur de Peau, in her home city of Prague is intended to convey the feeling she gets in the images she captures. “Whether it’s an aerial photograph of the earth or a photograph of sand at the water’s edge, or even a wall with a rough surface, it provokes a strong emotion in me that I want to convey on the medium, in the work. A kind of shocking, tactile ‘on the surface of the skin’, physical encounter.”

Married to a Portuguese poet and diplomat, with a base near Tavira, Jina is not one to give up travelling any time soon; as she poignantly points out: “Home is where you are”.

Jina’s original ceramic and textile works are available at the Loulé Criativo shop in Palácio Gama Lobo, 8100-259, Loulé.

I seek a new visual identity for the Portuguese nature and regions that inspire me – the meanders of the Ria Formosa, the geometry of the Algarve salt pans or the paths of Serra do Caldeirão.

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On the wall: Chateau Grey

1. Framed picture, from a selection

2. Newly upholstered chair, €169

3. Low storage cupboard, 180Lx39Dx39H, €119

4. Green glass bowl, €29

5. Plants from a selection

Get it together

Kit & Caboodle is the exclusive stockist of Annie Sloan paints, which are available to purchase, or used to re-love furniture to a client’s specification. Workshops are always on the agenda.

1. Fold-out polished wood dining table, 180Lx39Wx80H when closed, as a console table, €299

2. Oil painting, 120x100, €84

3. Pair of docorative horns, €265

4. Accessories, plants and plant pots, from a selection

Caminho do Cerro do Galo Armazém

Cream Country Grey

Lem Lem

Old Violet

Duck Egg Blue

Chicago Grey

WHEN YOU HAVE REAL CHOICE OF READY-TO-RELOVE TOP QUALITY FURNITURE AND DÉCOR ACCESSORIES, YOU CAN CREATE THAT HIGHLY INDIVIDUAL PERSONALITY FOR YOUR HOME. KIT & CABOODLE IN ALMANCIL IS THE PLACE TO GO FOR INSPIRATION… THEY BUY IN THE BEST

1. Set of 3 paintings,€240

2. Side table, 90Wx45Dx75H, €229

3. Book ends, ornaments and plants, from a selection

On the wall: Versaille

1. Polish wood six-sided table, 81H x 68 across, €129

2. One of a pair of leather-seated carved chairs, €249 for the pair

3. Artificial Orchids, €42 Outsize wall fan, not for sale

On the wall :Duck Egg Blue

Amsterdam Green

Chateaux Grey Olive

Coco

French Linen Firle

20 questions..

WINNERS OF THE SUSTAINABILITY AWARD AND RUNNERS UP FOR BEST NEW BUSINESS IN THE ALGARVE BUSINESS AWARDS, MIKE RUMBLE ’ S ALGARVE SOLAR POOL HEATING HAS BEEN HEATING POOLS HERE FOR THREE YEARS

11 Do solar panels also heat the house? Of course, but we recommend separating the pool heating and household heating systems.

12 Is there a set number of panels for a standard-sized pool? Our assessment and calculations are based on a number of factors, to suit specific needs.

13 Where are panels best positioned? Ideally, as close to the pool as possible, south facing and at the optimum angle, but they can be installed flat or angled on most pitched roofs, on an optimally angled custom frame, or on a structure that can serve a double purpose, for example a pergola, an entertainment area or a carport.

1 When did you arrive in the Algarve, and from where? We relocated from Cape Town, South Africa, mid pandemic.

2 What business were you in before?

Adventure tourism – I was a professional skydiver and full time drop zone operator.

3 How did you get into solar heating?

I was involved with a solar pool heating business in South Africa for many years. The first house we rented in the Algarve had a cold unheated swimming pool so, tapping into my contacts and experience, we had some of our South African tried, tested and proven panels sent over and installed. We launched Algarve Solar Pool Heating Solutions and have been busy heating pools here ever since.

4 How many pools built today have a heating system from the start? Pools here are typically non-insulated, with return jets only in the shallow end and near the surface of the water. It seems people have all been sold on the idea of heat pumps, which is crazy considering the Algarve has 300 days of sunshine and around 3,200 hours of sunlight per year. My pet hate is infinity pools; they look nice but are ultimately just an expensive waterfall cooling the pool water down all day!

5 What exactly does the system do?

Our direct heating systems utilise the existing pool pump to circulate the pool water through the solar thermal panels, which absorbs the thermal energy then flows back to the swimming pool a degree or two warmer each time. Our indirect heating systems

circulate Thesol (a form of glycol) and use an inline heat exchanger to transfer the heat generated to the pool water.

6 Are there other options, too? We also have custom solutions including SolarPave that extracts the thermal energy from the paving around the pool, and hybrid panels that generate electricity and absorb thermal energy.

7 Can any pool have solar panels installed? We have different solutions for different situations. The best time to contact us is before building a pool so we can advise on the best preparation for heating.

8 So how do they actually work? The pool water warms up during the day, but typically loses some temperature at night. The trick is reducing or stopping the heat loss with a decent heat retention blanket, so temperatures rise a little each day, and are maintained overnight. With proper use of a heat retention blanket the swimming season can be massively extended.

9 Once installed, how fast do the panels do their job? A few days of good sunshine is all it takes to warm up a pool.

10 Can the temperature of the water be controlled? It is easier to cool water down than it is to heat it up! Our direct systems can be fine tuned for the different seasons using a series of control valves. And our indirect systems come with a digital temperature controller.

14 What are the installation and running costs? All of our systems have a one-off installation cost, no moving parts, zero-to-minimal additional running costs, require zero-to-minimal maintenance, and are completely silent. Costs depend on the type of solution, the size of the pool and a number of other factors.

15 Do the panels have a lifespan? Are they guaranteed? You can expect a good 20+ years of trouble-free service; warranties range from five to 20 years depending on the solution we install.

16 Does solar pool heating add to the value of a property? Without a doubt. An unheated unused swimming pool is a costly liability whereas a solar-heated swimming pool is a value add that will not only increase the property value, but also the rentability of a property.

17 How long is the total installation process? A typical solar pool heating installation takes 3 - 4 days... obviously more complex situations take a bit longer.

18 Initial reaction? Most people initially find their pool gets too warm after installing a solar pool heating system... but it is easier to cool water down than it is to heat it up!

19 Does solar panel heating really extend the swimming season? Yes, and massively so.

20 How would you summarise the chief benefits? Our company slogan says it all: Happiness is... a warm swimming pool! And that spells more swimming pool enjoyment. Raising property values and minimal maintenance is that real plus.

Contact Mike Rumble Algarve Solar Pool Heating Solutions T: 911 185 288 /

Supporting the oncológicaassociação do algarve

THANKS TO HELP FROM FARO COUNCIL, THE INDEPENDENT AOA IS ABLE TO OFFER A RANGE OF SERVICES TO THOSE DEALING WITH THE EFFECTS OF BREAST CANCER. HOPEFULLY, IF HELP WERE TO COME FROM GENEROUS DONORS, THE ASSOCIATION WILL BE ABLE TO BROADEN ITS VALUABLE WORK AND ASSIST MORE PEOPLE

Words: SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND

Photography: KATHRYN BARNARD

IIT SEEMS that not a day goes by without reports of more cases of cancer, or the loss of someone you know, or know of, who has battled with the disease that does not discriminate when it comes to age, or class, or background.

The hospitals here in Portugal offer the best treatments possible, but it is the aftercare that is a vital component when a sufferer emerges from hospital, particularly after surgery when they are at their physical and emotional lowest and often unable to cope.

The Associação Oncológica do Algarve has at its disposal two tiny units in the centre of Faro, from which it carries out the work that would normally demand serious space. In the main unit, a narrow, one-floor building you would be challenged to notice in Largo das Mouras Velhas, there is barely room to sit. Cupboards are full to overflowing with materials. Shelves are stacked high with paperwork, boxes of special products are piled one atop the other. And in a room that holds just one desk and a computer, mammogram results are studied and assessed and reported on.

For just €12 a year, the association offers its member patients psychological support, physiotherapy, nursing, speech therapy, and the at-cost supply of essentials like breast prothesis that slip into a bra with special pockets, heartshaped underarm cushions made by volunteers for those who have had a mastectomy, wigs, turbans and so much more. Closest family members are entitled to take advantage of support, too, without paying anything further. Membership is also available to men suffering with cancer. A twice-yearly newsletter keeps conversations going, and everyone in touch.

In the other unit, a few blocks away behind Faro’s pedestrian street, an office and a few desks house the Association’s small administrative team and visiting volunteers.

There simply is not the room for the Associação Oncológica do Algarve to take on more. Your help is needed right now.

The background

The non-profit association was formed in July 1994 by José Alberto Santos Pereira – a surgeon at Faro Hospital’s senology department – and a small group of people touched by cancer, with the objective of educating the population of the Algarve about the disease.

Find out more at aoa.pt , including how you can become a volunteer. To make a donation, the details you require are IBAN: PT50 0045 7210 4022 2924 9774 4

In 2005, he implemented a programme of early diagnosis of breast cancer, acquiring a mobile unit to carry out breast screening in all 16 municipalities of the Algarve every two years.

And in 2006, Dr Pereira created a specialist unit, using European funds, so that cancer patients could avoid the trips to Lisbon that had been necessary when there was no radiotherapy unit here.

Thanks to Dr Pereira’s work and dedication to improvement, today, local health centres (Centro de Saúde) keep patients, age 50-69, informed when the unit will be visiting. Mammogram appointments can also be made by phone to ARS (289 889 912) or scheduled online at rastreio.aoa.pt

The screening is free for the women, and the cost of mammograms is covered by the Portuguese National Service, Administração Regional de Saúde (ARS), which meets the fees of doctors and technicians, and pays for equipment maintenance, insurances, electricity, water, etc.

The people

The AOA team, led by its dedicated President, Maria de Lurdes Santos Pereira, widow of the late founder, with Vice President Maria José Pires, and Treasurer Jaime Ferreira, includes communication and admin supporters, screening doctors, radiology technicians, many of whom work on a voluntary basis. Collectively, the volunteers work tirelessly to create fundraising events that will help the association meet its immediate day-to-day objectives. Sporting events, especially the ‘Mamaratona’, are a huge help in raising awareness and encouraging donations, and the monies collected are used to pay travel expenses, the administrative workers, physiotherapist, nursing, speech therapist staff.

The need

But the priority now, the urgent priority that will make the difference to many thousands of women, is to raise finance that will allow the association to take on bigger premises so that it can provide better conditions for the patients themselves and the workers and volunteers who support them, and, of course, make available the much-needed space for all that vital equipment.

Any person living in any part of the Algarve who suffers from cancer (or a close relative) can count on AOA’s help, so long as they are a member. And €12 is a very small amount to pay for the support and reassurance that will lead to a better life.

Many hundreds of thousands of euros are needed, and needed now. Small contributions add up fast, and large contributions make early planning a very real possibility. Faro council, naturally, will help where it can, but it is your donation that will be of the greatest help of all. If every reader of AlgarvePLUS gave just €10 to this cause, the impact would be dramatic.

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e publishing industry is changing. Canterbury-based writer and literary agent James Essinger founded e Conrad Press to bring a new kind of business model to the world of publishing.

e Conrad Press Limited publishes ction, poetry collections, and non- ction including memoirs and biographies.

e Conrad Press Limited makes use of a business model which allows authors to earn considerably more from their book’s success than traditional publishing models. In the rst instance please contact James Essinger at: jamesessinger@gmail.com All our books are available from Amazon and can be ordered from bookshops. ey are also available worldwide as e-books and from our website.

FULLY booked

I THOUGHT I WOULD DO SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT THIS MONTH AND TREAT YOU LUCKY PEOPLE TO AN EGOTISTICAL TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE! I’M A BIT OF A WRITING AND BOOK ENTHUSIAST AS YOU MAY HAVE GATHERED, AND AM OFTEN ASKED ABOUT MY FAVOURITE BOOKS. SO, THIS MONTH I’M SHARING WITH YOU THE FOLLOWING SIX BOOKS (IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER) WHICH I ABSOLUTELY LOVE

SHANTARAM

By Gregory David Roberts

Publisher: Abacus

Genre: Memoir

Audio narration: Excellent

Magical, atmospheric, morally bankrupt, lyrical, goodness me, I could go on and on with an endless stream of adjectives. The novel begins in 1980 with a prison escape, a fugitive making a new life in the Bombay slums, and fighting the Mujahedeen in Afghanistan. There is so much in-between which will keep you captivated.

Roberts was a heroin addict and thoroughly delinquent character. With the conscience of a cockroach, he rapidly morphs into a reasonable man and we see his true character emerge. He finds the poverty and hardship of his fellow human beings truly incomprehensible and unconsciously begins to redress the balance of his past-life.

His unselfish actions convince the reader that even the wicked can have redeeming qualities and choose to be good rather than bad. The plot aside, Shantaram takes you to a place where you can smell the markets, the slums, the traffic fumes and the cooking pots simmering.

I can feel the heat, the freezing snow of the mountains, taste the samosas, smell the acrid cigarettes. Rarely does a book convey so vividly these feelings and leave such an impact on the reader.

I have a need to go to Bombay and feel India for myself.

PRIDE AND PREJUDICE

By Jane Austen

Publisher: Infinity Books, any others

Genre: Classic

Audio narration: Several versions available, all excellent.

Elizabeth Bennet is my all-time favourite heroine but her mother, Mrs Bennet is by far the most wonderful character portrayed in this book. The late 18th century was not the easiest of times to be a woman, especially if you were intelligent and poor. Elizabeth is both of these, which only added to her mother’s unenviable raison d’etre. Mrs Bennet has five daughters, each with their own talents and, conversely, negative traits. Jane, Elizabeth, Mary, Catherine and Lydia are the product of the studious and put-upon Mr Bennet, who is a gentleman of modest income, and his wife. Mrs Bennet is often called foolish but I think her shrewd – she has five daughters who need husbands. The girls must marry well and Mrs Bennet is forever attempting to find suitors for her girls who will rescue the family from the financial straits of genteel poverty.

Elizabeth is spun a yarn, which she accepts in good faith, only to discover she has been mislead. Jane falls in love, Lydia’s virtue is compromised and Mrs Bennet’s blood pressure roller-coasters. The girls are as familiar and relevant to us today as they were 230 years ago when the book was first published. We all know a Mrs Bennet and, as the mother of four girls, I probably identify with her more than most!

THE COUNT OF MONTE CRISTO

By Alexandre Dumas

Publisher: Penguin Classics

Genre: Historical fiction

The ultimate book of revenge is a dish best served cold! Although, it would be equally fair to say that justice, mercy and forgiveness all feature heavily so there is hope!

Set in France, Italy and various islands in the Mediterranean during 1815-1839, this is the story of Edmond Dantès, a 19-year-old Frenchman who is the first mate aboard the Pharaon. Edmond is wrongly accused of treason, arrested without trial and kept a prisoner in a fortress on an island near Marseille. During the course of the next 14 years, Edmond veers from suicidal to becoming an educated and potentially rich man under the tutelage of another prisoner. His education, survival and escape are marvellous, as are his acquisition of wealth and the desire for revenge upon his accusers.

This swashbuckling story of good triumphing over evil is rich in the quality of words, descriptions of surroundings, and an incredible social commentary along with history, humanity and the concept that we all ultimately reap what we sow.

A QUIET VENDETTA

By R J Ellory

Publisher: Orion

Genre: Thriller

Audio narration: Excellent

The retrospective story of the life and times of a Cuban hit-man in the pay of the Mob. Ernesto Perez has worked for the Mob since the 1950s and is now an elderly man. He comes into the life of Ray Hartman, a police officer with a Washington based organised crime task force. Ray is summoned to Louisiana after the kidnapping of the daughter of the state Governor and that’s where this story becomes interesting.

Ernesto tells Ray his story, which encompasses historical events such as the Cuban Missile Crisis, the Bay of Pigs fiasco, Kennedy, Jimmy Hoffa and unimaginable corruption. Life in 1950s America was all about consumerism and world domination. But, scratch the surface...

I was captivated by the intrigue of this thriller; the murders and the horror man is capable of inflicting upon his fellow man. Also, the detailed explanations of the working of the unions and the strangle-hold upon the American government was amazing. Politics, sex, murder, money, greed, power and war are all featured in this book deeply intertwined with a thoroughly original plot.

SARUM

By Edward Rutherfurd

Publisher: Arrow

Genre: Historical fiction

Audio narration: Excellent

Subtitled The Novel of England, the story of five families in and around Salisbury from the year 7500 BC to 1987, this is a truly epic tale encompassing the building of Stonehenge, the rise and fall of the Romans, arrival of the Vikings and the English Civil War. Historical facts are woven around five families whose lives are intertwined. Rutherfurd is a master story-teller who captures the flavour of the age with acute accuracy to the degree that the reader becomes so invested in the plot, loathing and loving characters, recognising inherited traits of previous generations and gaining a greater understanding of the social history of the development of England. This incredible book is the first of many of its kind, which turns history into an understandable, enjoyable story whilst educating and explaining. His later novels, London, The Forest and Dublin: Foundation are equally enthralling.

PIED PIPER

By Nevil Shute

Publisher: Vintage Classics

Genre: Second World War fiction

Neville Shute was a prolific writer whose career spanned over 30 years; 1926–1960.

HAVE YOUR FAVOURITE BOOKS REVIEWED! annandale.dawn@gmail.com

– would be delighted to hear from any readers who would like their own favourites reviewed.

Pied Piper is told in the form of a flashback during the Blitz by an elderly English gentleman, John Howard. John takes himself off to Jura, France, on a fishing holiday, enveloped in grief for the death of his son who has been killed during the Battle of Heligoland Bight. Events escalate and John finds himself in the unenviable position of being stranded in France when Germany invades. The hotel he is staying at is also hosting a family comprising father, mother and two young children with whom John becomes acquainted. The parents ask John to take their two young children back to the safety of England and he agrees. Most of us can only imagine how terrifying life must have been during the Second World, thankfully. This book explores aspects of human nature the majority of people will never be called upon to experience, to be tested to the extreme limits of character and both mental and physical endurance. Shute is my all-time favourite author and selecting only one of his books was challenging. All his work is magnificent and ahead of its time.

SALT MAN

Taken: October 2018, Tavira saltpans

“In summer, it is time to crop the salt from the salt tanks. It’s very hard work, done under a scorching sun. The salt men are locals to whom the task is a way of life.”

Keyword: Essential

A member of the Algarve Photographers Group for ten years, Antonio Pires is a lawyer in Tavira and has been taking photographs since he was 14 years old. “My photographic journey has been somewhat hectic but I now move between analogue and digital, as both offer admirable and distinctive characteristics.”

Portfolio

FROM ABOVE

Taken: April 2015, Santa Luzia

“This aerial view over the Ria Formosa shows up the richness of tonalities – the many shades of golds and greens and blues which make it so impressive.”

Keyword: Open spaces

algarvephotographersgroup.org

To apply for membership or check exhibition dates at the Museu do Traje, São Brás, visit

ALMOND BLOSSOM

Taken: February 2023, North of Loulé

“In January and February, nature dresses in shy and cold colours, more in line with winter, but the white almond blossoms that cover the fields give the impression that it’s been snowing.”

Keyword: Seasons

A TYPICAL ALGARVIAN HOUSE

Taken: November 2021, Alte “In the narrow streets of this small mountain village that is one of the Algarve’s gems, the local houses feature brilliant white that reflects the intense summer light, and that traditional strong blue.”

Keyword: Character

SUNSET IN RIA FORMOSA

Taken: November 2013, Albacora Hotel, Tavira

“This photograph was taken in the Ria Formosa at low tide, near the Hotel Albacora. It is a celebration of a special moment of beauty and quietness.”

Keyword: Calm

The family-run Amesbury Abbey Group offers an elegant retirement in country house style at Monte da Palhagueira.

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For further information, please contact Senior Sister Hazel Gordon at T: +351 289 990 900

by Dora Guerreiro

On track

A TRACKER TAG COULD TAKE AWAY HOLIDAY NIGHTMARES OF LOST LUGGAGE, OR MISLAID POSSESSIONS AT HOME OR IN YOUR HOTEL. AND ONCE ITEMS ARE TAGGED, YOUR PHONE WILL TELL YOU WHERE TO GO. WHAT A RELIEF

Words: CHRIS PARTRIDGE

THE CAB FOR the airport is waiting outside but you have mislaid the bag with your passport, travel documents, cards and trashy beach novel. For many, this could set off a panic, but the technophile just clicks on an app on their phone and an arrow on the screen points to the bag’s exact location behind the clock on the mantelpiece. That is the magic of a tracker tag, a small disc you can put in a bag or on a keyring or anything you don’t want to lose. And the same trick can make life a bit easier at the destination too, where locating your suitcase on the carousel can be made easy with a tracker tag. The tag can even locate your luggage remotely, signalling its location if the airline has lost it.

Tracker tags are discs roughly the size of

Apple Airtag and accessories come in multi-packs should you choose

draughts pieces or cards the size of credit cards, designed to be attached to keyrings or slipped into wallets. Inside, a battery-powered circuit board has a Bluetooth module so it can be paired with a smartphone using a companion app. The radio link is encrypted so no-one else can communicate with the tag unless given permission by the owner. The tag works in two ways. It responds to the app so the phone can sense its location, or it can automatically beep when it loses the signal, alerting the user to the fact that the tag has been left behind. Some tags also feature a button that activates the Bluetooth link and prompts the phone to ring, so you can use the tag to find the phone (usually down the side of the sofa if my experience is anything to go by).

The latest tracker tags have an added feature that enables a nearby phone to locate them with almost preternatural accuracy. The technology is called ultrawideband (UWB) and uses a spread of high frequencies to send and receive billions of tiny pulses of information that can be used to identify and locate a tag very precisely up to about 30m away (though the signals do not penetrate walls very well). The latest phones and tags from Apple and Samsung feature UWB and the technology will become

commonplace over the next few years, analysts believe.

The first popular tracker tag was the Tile, introduced a decade ago. Tile trackers come in various formats, including one for adding to a keyring, a flat version for a wallet and a small sticky unit for attaching to valuable gear.

The market really took off when Apple launched the AirTag, however. As usual with Apple products, pairing an AirTag with an iPhone is incredibly easy and they ‘just work’. The other selling point is that an AirTag can communicate with any nearby iPhone, which then reports its position on Apple’s FindMy service, enabling the owner to recover the lost items quickly. Tile has a similar service but other smartphones have to be running the Tile app for it to work, which limits the coverage of the service very considerably.

The ease with which AirTags can be tracked has led to serious safety concerns, however. Stalkers, ex-husbands and even rapists have slipped AirTags into their target’s pocket or bag, or attached it to their car, so they can follow them wherever they go. Apple has introduced a couple of features to combat this – the victim’s iPhone will alert them if an AirTag they are not connected to travels with them for a period of time, and AirTags that are separated from their owner’s phone but are still on the move will emit a powerful alarm after some hours. Apple will also pass the connected device’s number to the police if malice is suspected. Unfortunately, the system only works if the victim also has an iPhone (or runs Apple’s detector app on an Android phone), and the delays in activating the alarms may mean they come too late. So, vulnerable people, especially women, need to be vigilant.

Samsung has recently launched its own Galaxy SmartTag that works in the same way. The regular SmartTag has Bluetooth only and works with all Samsung phones, and the more expensive SmartTag Plus also has AWB but works only with the latest top-of-the-line Sammy smartphones. The smart tags have an interesting extra feature – they can be used to control Samsung’s SmartThings devices, so you can switch your Hue lights on by pressing the tag’s button.

Tracking tags

CHIPOLO CARD SPOT

A credit-card sized tag that fits neatly in a wallet. €39, amazon.de

Pros: Works with Apple Find My; no subscription necessary.

Cons: Battery not replaceable.

APPLE AIRTAG

A disc that can be held in any one of a wide variety of holders making it very versatile. Location is accurate and Apple’s Find My network leverages the billions of iPhones around to make success very likely in finding your lost property. €39.64 from FNAC, plus the holder which is sold separately

Pros: Easy to use and precise, huge Find My network.

Cons: Needs a holder that can double the cost. Only works with recent iPhones.

SAMSUNG GALAXY SMARTTAG AND SMARTTAG PLUS

All the features of the AirTag but cheaper. Works with Samsung phones only so finding lost property is much less reliable. €22.99 for the SmartTag, €44.94 for the SmartTag Plus, from Worten.

Pros: Replaceable battery, low cost, keyring hole so no need for holder. Can be used to operate Samsung SmartThings.

Cons: Only works with Samsung phones. Smart Tag Plus not really worth the extra cash.

TILE MATE

A compact, no frills tag at a low price, €29.99 amazon.es

Pros: 3-year battery life.

Cons: Battery not replaceable; some features need a subscription.

Above: Apple’s chic Hermes Airtag. Right: Keep track of your four-legged friends with Samsung Galaxy’s SmartTag

WARREN BEATTY

Virginia-born Warren Beatty was fascinated by the world of movies as a youngster and always wanted to write, produce and direct, as well as act! His Hollywood career has gained him 15 Oscar nominations, including four for Best Actor, plus a Lifetime Achievement Award from the American Film Institute. His first job was as a stage hand, followed by acting school in New York City. By the late ‘50s he had appeared on stage and TV but his first big break came in 1961 when his appearance alongside Natalie Wood in Splendor in the Grass won him his first Golden Globe nomination. More successes followed,including Bonnie and Clyde in 1967 in which he chose the other actors and oversaw the script as well as starring as gangster Clyde Barrow. Further hits like Shampoo in 1975 and Reds in 1981 followed. He continued to appear in films and on TV into the new century, including presenting the Oscars in 2017 and 2018. He was also well-known for his romantic liaisons and regularly featured in gossip columns, having, it is said, dated more than a hundred female celebrities. Leslie Caron turned down his proposal of marriage; Cher said: “He has dated everyone I know”; and Miriam Margolyes brushed him off by telling him she was gay. In 1992 he married actress Annette Bening and the couple have two children. He is known for his support for liberal causes and has won awards for his films all over the world.

Whatever happened to…

PERSONALITIES FROM THE WORLD OF FILM, POP MUSIC AND THE INTERNATIONAL SPORTS CIRCUIT HAVE BEEN TRACKED DOWN THIS MONTH – HEARTTHROB, SINGALONG AND MATCH MAKER WHO ARE STILL ACTIVE AND DOING THEIR OWN THING

Words: JILL ECKERSLEY

GERI HALLIWELL

Geri Horner is a singer, songwriter, author and actress, and also, of course ‘Ginger Spice’. She was one-fifth of the most successful girl group of all time. The Spice Girls sold 100 million records worldwide and also introduced their young fans to the concept of ‘Girl Power’. Geri began her career as a model and night-club dancer before spotting an ad in The Stage for the group that was to become The Spice Girls.

After leaving the group in the Nineties, Geri released her own solo albums and became a guest judge on TV’s The X Factor and also on Australia’s Got Talent. Since then, she has written two autobiographies and the Ugenia Lavender series of children’s books. In 1998 she became a Goodwill Ambassador for the United Nations. She has taken part in the Spice Girls reunion tour, including an appearance at the London Olympics in 2012. Her daughter Bluebell was born in 2006. In 2015 she married former racing driver and Red Bull team principal Christian Horner. Their son was born in 2017. Geri has always been outspoken and honest about her struggles with an eating disorder, which she says has been helped by her becoming a mother. She is an animal lover and has adopted dogs from Battersea. In 2022 she signed a new book deal with Scholastic Children’s Books. Her husband describes her as “a force of nature” and among her celebrity friends is Robbie Williams who says that Geri is…“bonkers, but great company!”

80s 1500BC

PIPES

There was a time, way back, when it seemed that everyone’s favourite uncle smoked a pipe; it went well with his tweed jacket and greying hair. Statistics suggest that in the USA in the ‘60s, 14% of men were pipe-smokers, but by 1991 the figure was a mere 2%.

Pipe-smoking has a long history, however. The first smoking pipes were discovered in 2,000-year-old Egyptian tombs, although it is not known whether they were part of religious rituals or for recreational use. The famous Ancient Greek doctor, Hippocrates, recommended herbs smoked in a pipe for female illnesses. Native Americans seem to have smoked pipes from around 1500 BC, often to mark a peace agreement between warring tribes - the ‘peace pipe’. Christopher Columbus carried home pipes, and the leaves smoked in them, and by the 16th century AD, pipe smoking was popular in Europe – introduced to France by one Jean Nicot from whose name the word ‘nicotine’ is derived. Early European pipes were made of chalk or clay.

In the early 18th century the ‘meerschaum’ – with its artistic carvings – became fashionable, although the bowl of a meerschaum pipe became too hot to hold if the user wasn’t careful. Many other styles followed, including the Churchwarden, Sitter, Billiard and the ‘Calabash’, popularised by Sherlock Holmes. Bach and Beethoven were pipe-smokers, as in our own day were astronaut Buzz Aldrin, politician Tony Benn and entertainer Eric Morecambe. Pipes were part of popular culture and the British Pipesmokers Council announced a ‘Pipesmoker of the Year’ award every year until 2014. More awareness of the health risks of smoking meant that fewer than ever men smoke pipes today, in Britain at least, although, apparently, 25% of Swedish men are still holding on to their pipes…

Back in the ‘80s tennis fans thrilled to the rivalry between Germany’s Boris Becker and the blond Swedish star, Stefan Edberg. The pair contested three Wimbledon singles finals, with Edberg winning the first, Becker the second and Edberg triumphing again in the third. Between 1985 and 1996 he won six Grand Slam singles titles, three Grand Slam doubles titles and was ranked World Number One for a total of 72 weeks. After retiring from competition, he coached the great Roger Federer for a time and the pair became lifelong friends. However, Edberg has maintained a low profile after his retirement, saying only that he “wanted to try a few different things”. With his wife and two children, he lives in Växjö, a town in Southern Sweden, and has become as successful – and wealthy – a businessman as he was as a tennis star, heading a finance company which manages equity portfolios. “I wanted to take control of my own money and my own life,” he has said. However, he retains an interest in sport, being a keen fan of the local ice-hockey team as he was an ice hockey player as a child before he took up tennis. He is also a soccer fan with Britain’s Leeds United being his team. He has happy memories of his years living in London where he says British tennis fans always made him feel welcome.

STEFAN EDBERG

Residency and taxes

RESIDENCY, DOMICILE, VISAS AND NON-HABITUAL

RESIDENCY… IT CAN BE CONFUSING. MARK QUINN AND DEBRAH BROADFIELD OF THE SPECTRUM IFA GROUP EXPLAIN NHR’S GENEROUS TAX BREAKS, TAX PLANNING OPPORTUNITIES, AND HOW TO REDUCE OR EVEN ELIMINATE INCOME AND GAINS TAX ON SAVINGS AND INVESTMENTS

LEGAL RESIDENCE relates to the right to reside in a particular country. If you are an EU citizen, you have the automatic right to reside in any other EU country without the necessity for a visa. If you are coming from outside the EU, you must apply for a visa to establish your residency rights – a common visa route is the D7 or ‘passive income visa’.

Legal residence is important as it determines how long you are allowed to spend in a country, and your right to benefits such as healthcare and social security. Legal residence however does not impact or determine your tax status.

Tax residency Generally, tax residency is determined by your physical presence in a country and Portugal, along with many other countries, uses the 183-day rule for determining tax residency.

Understanding your tax residency is important because it determines which country has taxing rights over you and can avoid double-taxation issues when you have links to more than one jurisdiction.

It is possible to have legal residence in Portugal, but not actually be Portuguese tax resident e.g. if you have the right to stay in Portugal but you do not spend enough time in Portugal in a given year to be considered tax resident.

Non-Habitual Residence (NHR)

NHR gives successful applicants a special tax status in Portugal for 10 years, but its name is somewhat misleading. ‘Non-habitual’ actually refers to the requirement that you must not have been resident in Portugal in the five years prior to application.

You must apply for residency before you can apply for NHR. On obtaining residency, you have until the following 31st March to apply for NHR. If you miss this deadline there is no second chance to apply.

Domicile

Domicile is something that is often confused with residency. Your domicile does not affect your income tax position, but it does affect your liability to UK Inheritance Tax. It is most likely to be a consideration for British nationals, individuals married to British nationals, or those who are not British but spend a considerable amount of time in the UK.

Being UK domicile is very adhesive and is difficult to shed; moving to Portugal does not automatically remove your liability to UK inheritance tax, no matter how long you have been out of the UK. Likewise, simply sheltering the bulk of your assets in a trust or QNUPS (Qualifying Non-UK Pension Scheme) is unlikely to protect assets from UK IHT.

Tax liabilities in Portugal

Tax residents of Portugal must declare their worldwide income and gains in Portugal. For those with assets in several countries, you might also have tax and reporting obligations in the jurisdictions where you hold the assets e.g. UK rental income is always taxable in the UK but is also reportable and taxable in Portugal. Whether you will pay tax twice depends on the Double Taxation Treaty between the two countries, but there are usually rules in place to avoid this happening.

Potential pitfalls

Many people believe that, as long as they are paying tax somewhere they are meeting their obligations, but this is not correct. It is important that you have a clear understanding of where you are resident to avoid being taxed in more than one jurisdiction or being fined.

Registering yourself in Portugal does not automatically make you a tax resident. It is determined by your physical presence, so it is important to check your tax residency every tax year, as it could change.

Your nationality or citizenship does not change by coming to live in Portugal and becoming resident, although you do have the option of applying for Portuguese citizenship after five years.

ASK

THE EXPERTS

Debrah Broadfield and Mark Quinn are Chartered Financial Planners (level 6 CII) and Tax Advisers (UK ATT) with 20 years of combined experience advising expatriates in Portugal on cross-border financial and tax planning issues.

YOUR money

RICARDO CHAVES IS ON THE PLUS TEAM AND ANSWERS

YOUR QUESTIONS ON THE ISSUES THAT AFFECT YOUR LIFESTYLE HERE. THIS MONTH, HE EXPLAINS THE NEW LAW GOVERNING ‘ AL’ LICENCES, THE POSSIBILITY OF BUILDING A GARAGE AND RUSTIC LAND OWNERSHIP

When you pay by card, is it better to choose the Multibanco option on the card reader rather than the credit card – or does it make no difference?

When you are paying a bill at the TPA (automatic payment terminal) you are normally asked to choose between the Multibanco network or the network associated with your card, eg Visa. This does not make any difference to you, the cardholder, as your account will be charged the same amount.

However, the commission paid by the business you are buying from may depend on the contract they have in place with the payment providers, and that is why, when you are paying a bill, the person you are dealing with will choose the network that is of greater benefit to their company.

Can I have paying guests staying in my home for their holidays? If they are friends or come through friends and I do not intend to make this a business, do I need to declare anything, or to have an AL number? And what does one have to do to get an AL certification –what freedom does that give you?

If you have guests who are paying to stay in your house, this could be considered a business transaction and your income could be deemed as a rental. Obviously, to be considered as a tourist letting business, you would need to register with the tax office and obtain the AL (Local Lodging) license.

If you do not plan to advertise your property for rental, you could simply declare the rental agreement and the rental income, paying the tax accordingly, without going through the stages of securing an AL number.

But, if you do wish to pursue a Local Lodging facility and advertise on the rental portals (Airbnb, Booking, Vrbo, etc) you are required to register your activity and obtain the AL number. Be aware that the registration of your property as a business may have an impact on your future capital gains liability, providing you sell the property within less than

three years of stopping the AL license.

Worth taking into consideration is that the government is preparing to present a set of laws to limit the number of new AL licenses. The law is forecast to be in place before the summer and will limit the possibility of obtaining a new AL license, which will only be available to villas. Only the interior regions of Portugal will not be affected by this restriction to the AL in apartments. Although the current AL licenses will continue to be valid, they will need to be renewed in 2030.

I need a garage. Can I build one on my land, if it is not attached to my house – do I need permission for this?

The law allows you to build an annex or a garage on your property without asking for a municipal license, as long as the final space does not exceed certain legally defined limits.

If the space does not exceed ten square meters in area and 2.20m in height, normally it is not required to have a special permit. However, if the area is greater than that, or taller, you will need to ask for building permission and deal with all the paperwork involved.

In any case, you should always contact an architect to ensure that the work you are going to do is not against any municipal regulation or of any other entity that may have authority over that area.

How do I find out who owns the land adjoining mine (I am in the countryside)?

Normally, when you are buying a rustic plot, your tax registration document (Caderneta Predial) will include a space for information on the adjacent land owners – the problem is that not all plots, especially in the countryside, are registered. To try to lessen possible complications, the government has created a website ( bupi.gov.pt), where anyone can register their plots so that in the future this information is easily available to anyone.

A new law, that will be in place by summer, will limit the number of AL licences granted

CRAIG ALAN

ArtCatto, Loulé, 289 419 447 info@artcatto.com artcatto.com

On now

Dulcet Consonances, Shadowbox – mixed media, 100x81cm. This new exhibition also features artworks from O Gringo, Luc Lavenseau, Dom Pattinson and sculptor Jürgen Lingl.

FESTIVAL OF QUESTIONS

Aderita Artistic Space

Vale do Lobo

912 186 868, artisticspace.pt 2–21 May

This adventurous exhibition, hosted by Aderita, which includes workshops and philosophy sessions, embodies the work of ten artists around eight questions posed by students from the Vilamoura International School. Adriano Aires, Aderita Silva, Bruno Ceriz (whose work is shown here), Filipe da Palma, Guilherme Limão, Luís da Cruz, Mary Berry, Margarida Gomes, Phermad and Sandro Soutilha make a journey around painting and engraving, passing through sculpture and photography.

ANDY O’CONNEL, PHOTOGRAPHER

EDWIN HAGENDORN, ARTIST

Associação Cultural

Re-Criativa República 14, Olhão 910 513 614

geral@republica14.pt

Until end May

Two creative talents fill the entire República 14 interior with their work, images of Olhão, Estoi, Moncarapacho, Golega, Madeira, Lisbon and Porto. So much to take in, and to delight.

TERESA CALEM

Art Gallery of the Convent of Espírito Santo Rua Vice Almirante Cândido dos Reis, Loulé 289 400 885

On until 6 May, Tuesday to Saturday 10:00–13:30 and 14:30–8:00

In Germinações there are faces that are not portraits, fictional beings that germinate in Teresa’s imagination and appear in her watercolours in large numbers, on different scales. Houses also have an important place in her work, sometimes merging with the plant world, living plants or pool flowers.

TOM LEAMON

Galeria Augustine

Rua Leite de Vasconcelos 3A, Lisbon. galeria-augustine.com

Opening 27 May, 14:00

Solo exhibition by this highlyregarded London artist. His creations are an experiment into release, expressions of freedom in an altogether constrained world. Thought-provoking stuff.

FONSECA MARTINS

Tavira d’Artes, Tavira 962 012 111 taviradartes@gmail.com taviradartes.com

Colours and shadows, and soft spring sunshine. Oil on canvas, 120x120cm.

EXPERIENCES MUSIC VAMOS A VILA FESTIVAL

Amigos de Música

Os Agostos, Sta. Bárbara de Nexe reservasconcertos@gmail.com amigosdemusica.org

NOTE CHANGE OF DATES

Now 9 and 11 May, 19:00

On the 9th, young Alaskan violinist Zachary Spontak will play works by Fritz Kreisler, the famous partita in D minor by Bach, an early violin sonata by Paul Hindemith, and works by Francisco Tárrega, Monti and Carlos Gardel.

On the 11th, the Caminus Duo – Mikhail Zhumov, cello, and Joana Vieira Shumova, piano – introduce Maurice Ravel, Gabriel Fauré, Frank Bridge, Robert Schumann, Sergei Rachmaninov and the famous cello sonata by Dmitri Shostakovich. For more information about the Amigos de Música and its concert programme visit the new website; for membership enquiries contact helga.hampton@gmail.com

República 14, Olhão

Reservas@re-criativarepublica14.pt Email for ticket prices, and to book.

Monchique 282 910 200 geral@cm-monchique.pt cm-monchique.pt

28-29 May

Free entrance

The markings of a perfect party – gastronomy, performance, ateliers, shows, exhibitions, animation and dance – with local products and local talents.

6 May, 19:00 and 21:30 JACARANDÁ

BLUES

BAND Alban Hall (vocals, harmonica, flute, percussions) and Philippe Lenzini (guitar, percussions), inspired by the sound of the Mississippi Blues, make its minimalist and shamanic cadence, electrifying it and mixing it with other influences, ranging from tribal music to psychedelic rock.

13 May, 17:00 and 21:30

BENVINDO BARROS This Capeverdian musician left his island in search of better opportunities, and that is reflected in his music. This concert is a celebration of his 30 years as an artist.

SUNDAY SUNSET SESSIONS

Tribulum, Almancil Green Zebra Bar

289 397 784 tribulumalgarve.com

Starting 7 May, then every Sunday

Live music from 17:00 to 20:00, followed by DJ Mark Sebastian until 22:00. Zebra Fodder Tapas menu… and a good time to be had by all.

20 May, 17:00 and 21:30

13 May, 17:00 and 21:30

COMBINATORIUM José Peixoto and Nuno Cintrão are guitar players who love to experiment.

LEO MIDDEA is from Rio de Janeiro. Based today in Lisbon, he has toured the world with his guitar, played sell-out concerts everywhere, and raised public money (€1 per person) to produce an album that can be seen on Youtube. The album reached one million plays on Spotify in just nine months. He’s young, and has incredible energy.

LAAF LISBON ARTS AND ANTIQUES FAIR

Cordoaria Nacional, Lisboa 213 474 571 apa@apa.pt apa.pt

5-13 May

If you’re into collecting, or adding to an existing collection, you are certain to find something special here, from the classics to the contemporaries. All pieces exhibited have been assessed for quality and originality.

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE EMAIL susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Loulé Criativo workshops

Visit the website for dates and details –there’s so much more than we have room to list! 289 400 829, loulecriativo@cm-loule.pt, loulecriato.pt

INITIATION TO CERAMICS: THE SLAB TECHNIQUE

6 May

Palácio Gama Lobo, Loulé

Contact: Isabel Sousa Carvalho

To register: 938 757 940

RESORT DISCOVERY WALK

Vale do Lobo Tennis Academy 289 353 307 experience@vdl.pt

4 and 11 May

€5

This one-hour, low-impact activity fun group walk is the ideal way to get out and about, enjoy the sun and fresh air, meet others, and take in VdL’s beautiful natural surroundings.

39TH VALE DO LOBO OPEN FOURSOMES WEEK

Vale do Lobo Golf Club 289 353 464 golf@vdl.pt 14-20 May

Closing date for booking, 10 May

Now in its 39th year, the Foursomes Week promises to provide exciting golf and enjoyable social opportunities, starting with a practice day on the Sunday and culminating in a prize giving cocktail and dinner on the following

Saturday, 20 May. Combine a break in Vale do Lobo with entry to Foursomes Week and take advantage of the special play and stay package from €850, including seven nights’ accommodation in Vale do Lobo.

HALF TERM JUNIOR GOLF ACADEMY

Vale do Lobo Golf Club 289 353 464 golf@vdl.pt

29 May –2 June, 14:00–16:00 €125 per child for five days

With expert tuition and small group sizes, this is a perfect opportunity for children who have already had some golfing experience but now want to progress to a new level, and to perhaps challenge their parents by the end of the week!

Pre-registration is required; classes will be of maximum ten children.

BOTANICAL PRINTING WITH GADJODILO

13 May

Alte, Loulé Contact: GadjoDilo – Vanessa Vinhais

To register: casadoartesao. alte@gmail.com

910 084 192

NEW FINDING THE BOUQUET: ESPIGA

DAY

18 May

Quinta da Tôr, Loulé

Partner: Quinta da Tôr

To register: turinox.lda@hotmail.com 964 026 310

Walk around the Quinta da Tôr vineyard with the owner to collect the elements of the typical ‘Espiga’ bouquet. Finish with wine tasting and tapas.

NEW CYANOTYPE EXPERIMENT WITH ALGARVE FLORA

20 May

Palácio Gama Lobo, Loulé Partner: Sandra Nascimento

To register: deepblue.hello@gmail.com

Photographic printing technique, Cyanotype, is a process of photographic printing in blue tones, which produces an image in cyan when in contact with UV light.

Visit kitandcaboodle.pt/productcategory/workshops/ for details and prices of May’s workshops – Chalk Tuesdays, Glaze Art on 10 May, and An Introduction to Annie Sloan on the 18th.

BRING AND TRANSFORM STUFF

13 May

Palácio Gama Lobo, Loulé Coordination: Margarida Valente

To register: loulecriativo@ cm-loule.pt

NEW TRADITIONAL CHAIR STUFFING

27 May

Palácio Gama Lobo, Loulé Coordination: Maria João

To register: loulecriativo@ cm-loule.pt

At Vale do Lobo

FARO ARCHITECTURE MODERNIST TOUR

contact@themodernist.pt, instagram @themodernistfaro

14, 17, 18, 24, 31 May

Inspired by The Modernist Weekend event, this 90-minute guided walking tour in Faro city centre

A 90-minute walking tour in the city centre in which you will discover the amazing modernist architecture built in Faro between the 50s and the 80s. Learn about the actors involved, the buildings accomplished (and not), the tension between the architects, the developers and the regime, etc. In three decades (50s-80s) Faro experienced a boom in construction and economic growth which was defined as a ‘miracle’.

This new tour is hosted by Francesca Vita, designer, researcher and PhD candidate in Architecture (Porto FAUP).

It is also possible to check and book this experience on airbnb airbnb.fr/experiences/4341209

FARMERS’ MARKET

7 May, Quinta Shopping, 10:00–13:00

Lots to buy – foods from the farm, homemade sweet treats, spices and artisan goods including jewellery.

EXPERIENCES

VEGAN PICNIC AND HIKE

Figs on the Funcho cheryl@figsonthefuncho.com

https://tri.ps/IPtYL and https://tri. ps/AxhlM

12 May and 16 May

10:00 start

Take in breathtaking views of the Algarve countryside and indulge in a delicious vegan picnic prepared by Cheryl and Graham. Whether you’re an experienced hiker or just looking for a fun day outdoors, this walking event is perfect.

HEALTH AND WELLNESS DAY

Figs on the Funcho cheryl@figsonthefuncho.com

https://tri.ps/to2rd

23 May, 11:00–16:30

Learn easy and relaxing techniques to improve your well-being, boost your health and energy, and discover natural approaches to wellness and disease prevention. Enjoy a delicious vegan lunch and a fun team-building session. End the day with a restorative walk in the Algarve countryside led by Cheryl. Leave feeling refreshed and rejuvenated, ready to tackle life’s challenges.

AMIGOS DO MUSEU

Museu do Traje São Brás 966 329 073

admin@amigosdomuseu.com amigosdomuseu.com

21 May, Spring Fair, 10:00–17:00

25 May, Second hand books sale, 10:00–13:00

26 May, Opening new photography exhibition, 19:00

27 May, Jazz concert, Cool Manouche, 17:00, €12/Amigos €10 28 May, Fado concert, 21:00, €5

There’s a good chance you’ll know someone by the name of Amber, it relates to the gemstone, which is also known as the sun stone due to its bright orange-yellow colour.

Although gemstones are generally specified as a mineral of crystal origin, Amber is an exception to the rule as it’s organic and relatively soft and light. Amber is the result of resin that forms to heal the bark of a wounded tree. Over time, the trees and their resin became buried beneath the Earth’s surface, the trees eventually decayed and disappeared. But the resin hardened further, until it became Amber. Many pieces contain the remains of insects or plants in the form of fossils, trapped alive in the resin as it hardened.

The vast majority of Amber can be found in the Baltic Sea region - it is extracted from mines or directly from the sea, often washed upon the shore. There are findings of rings, amulets and decorative objects dating back to ancient times when Romans and Greeks believed that Amber had magical, protective and healing properties.

It is also said that Amber has the power to attract good luck and positive energy, reduce stress and anxiety and speed up the development of wisdom and patiencecharacteristics we could all benefit from.

So I have designed a collection of Amber necklaces and silver rings and it is up to you to decide whether or not these spiritual properties have merit.

AND f inally

SHOULDERS BACK, STOMACH IN, CHEST OUT. ANTHONY MARTIN SITS CONTEMPLATING HIS NAVEL – AND HIS FEET – WHILE PLANNING THAT PERFECTLY-TONED, SLEEK BODY. YES, IT ’ S THE SAME ONE HE PLANS EVERY YEAR AROUND THIS TIME

WELL, IT APPEARS that after a particularly cold winter, summer is finally arriving.

It was only three weeks ago that I finally banished the night-time auxiliary heater and bed socks, and now I am left with approximately 12 weeks to get ready for one of the main reasons we moved here: walks on the beach, lazing on the beach, lunch by the beach, sunset by the beach, and generally all activities that can follow the word beach. And, with the Algarve having over 200 kilometres of said beaches, it’s not surprising that we gravitate towards them.

However, it is also around this time of year when I realise that there is no way I’m ready to bare all, or at best bare most, as I have been a mite lax regarding perfecting that desirable ‘beachready’ body.

I am sure that somewhere about my person there is a sixpack, but I’ll be damned if I can find it. But I have only twelve weeks to get into some sort of shape, other than the present one, which can be likened to an over-stuffed rag doll that the dog has had a go at.

So how do I, in the span of three months, turn myself from the one who is liable to have sand kicked into their face to… well, the one who isn’t?

First on the agenda is to find my waist, which I think has teamed up with the six-pack and jumped ship. But how do I go about this? Gyms bore me, as would prancing about in a room full of leotarded vegans hell bent on meeting like-minded folk.

What I need/want is exercise I can do by myself in the privacy of my own space. And the place to look for that is my inbox, as for months I have been getting unsolicited emails pushing the joys of ‘chair pilates’ – the so-called geriatrics answer to a work-out – and ignoring the fact that cyberspace knows my age, this could suit me admirably as I can sit comfortably, in front

of the television while I stretch, flex and twist parts of my body into places they haven’t been for many years – if ever. All I need to do is drag a suitable chair into position and log on to YouTube.

I have, therefore, just followed my own advice. But the first thing I was presented with was a Pilates Chair for sale at a none-too-lean €4,000.

Scrolling quickly on, I eventually came across a pleasant looking leotarded ‘lady of a certain age’ seated in a chair, not unlike mine and speaking in that condescending tone reserved for those that the speaker deems not intellectually up to their level.

Thinking about the possibility of having a tanned body, complete with abs and waist, I resisted the urge to shout rude things at her and dutifully did as instructed and removed my shoes and socks.

Placing my naked feet in the recommended position on the floor, I couldn’t help but notice that some of my toes appeared to have a life of their own and were pointing in different directions.

Making a mental note to see a podiatrist, I turned my attention to my instructor, who by now was at the deep breathing, head to the ceiling stage. But stretching the body up while holding the stomach muscles in and taking a deep breath caused a five-minute coughing and wheezing fit, so I added a pneumologist to my ‘must see list’ and returned to my personal Marquis de Sade.

At this stage of the video she was demonstrating the working of other muscles by bending forward and lowering the head. Following her to the letter, I heard a crack from my lower spine, added an orthopaedic surgeon to my list of appointments to be made, and, as I struggled upright short of breath and with heart pounding, I wondered, while I’m at it, if a visit to a cardiologist would be a good idea.

With my diary filling up with medical appointments to be made, the question now is should I just skip the beach this year and enjoy my life as is – after all, what would a six pack and a waist really do for me?

For months I have been getting unsolicited emails pushing the joys of chair pilates