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SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE
BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN FEBRUARY 2025 30 OPERA
30 classical
SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE Sport
ITALY TO FACE WALES, FRANCE AND IRELAND AT THE STADIO OLIMPICO IN ROME
Italy will play three home games in the 2025 edition of the annual Six Nations rugby union championship which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year.
The Azzurri will face Wales on 8 February, France on 23 February and defending
champions Ireland on 15 March, with all three matches being played in Rome’s Olympic Stadium. The 15-match tournament – contested by England, France, Ireland, Italy, Scotland and Wales – will see Italy play two away
games: against Scotland in Murrayfield on 1 February and England at Twickenham on 9 March.
The presentation of this year’s Six Nations was held in Rome, for the first time, to mark 25 years since Italy was added to the
Andy Devane
Five Nations rugby union championship in 2000.
Andrea Duodo, president of the Federazione Italiana Rugby (FIR), describes 5 February 2000 as “an unforgettable date for every Italian rugby player, a day that changed our sport in Italy forever.”
Duodo said the Azzurri have experienced “25 exciting years, even if not always easy, with days to forget and others that we will remember for a lifetime.”
The FIR president singled out Italian rugby legend Sergio Parisse whose 69 appearances make him the most-capped player ever in the more than 140year history of the rugby tournament
“I don’t want to ruin the surprise for our fans” –Duodo said – “but we will find [Parisse] again on 23 February in Rome against France for the greeting he deserves from his people.”
Last year the Azzurri achieved their best ever result in the tournament, clocking up 11 points thanks to wins against Scotland and Wales, and a draw with France, significantly changing the way the team is seen internationally.
Italian rugby captain Michele Lamaro expressed optimism about the upcoming Six Nations during the Rome presentation.
“There are a lot of expectations on us, other teams look at us differently now” – Lamaro told reporters – “We have to focus on ourselves, on what we can do to improve, gain confidence and try to improve day by day.”
Italy’s coach, Argentine Gonzalo Quesada, said the team has “higher expectations than last year”, stressing: “We have the potential to play better, defend better and have an even stronger character.”
All sides in the Six Nations tournament will try to avoid being handed the dreaded “wooden spoon” – for finishing in last place – which went to Wales in 2024.
Around 185 million viewers in 64 countries tuned in to watch last year’s Six Nations matches, with four million followers on social media generating 615 million video views and almost 300,000 fans participating in the Fantasy Rugby digital platform.
For full details of the 2025
tournament see websites www.sixnationsrugby.com and www.federugby.it.
How to get to Stadio Olimpico
By public transport: From Termini station, take the Metro A line in the direction of Battistini, getting out at Ottaviano (6 stops away, in the Vatican area). From there take the No. 32 bus to Piazzale della Farnesina and make the short walk to the stadium.
Alternatively take the Metro A line in the direction of Battistini and get out at Flaminio (4 stops) then take the No. 2 tram to its terminus at Piazza Mancini (7 stops). From there cross over the Ponte Duca d’Aosta bridge to the stadium.
By foot: The stadium is located around six km from the centre of Rome, or about four km from the Ottaviano area. It is roughly a 40-minute walk from Flaminio, a popular option for many.
Taxi: Visitors to Rome who wish to reach the stadium by taxi are advised to give
Italian players regroup during 2024 Six Nations match against England at the Stadio Olimpico. Photo credit: Marco Iacobucci Epp / Shutterstock.com.
themselves plenty of time and not leave it until the last minute as traffic can be heavy on match days. The city’s main taxi companies are 063570 and 060609. Rome taxi cooperative Samarcanda (065551) is known for its excellent customer service.
Sustainable transport: Other options include car-sharing companies such as Enjoy www.enjoy.eni.com, electric motorcycle sharing outfits like eCooltra (www.cooltra. com) or electric scooter and bicycle sharing operators Bird (www.bird.co), Dott (www.ridedott.com) and Lime (www.li.me). The stadium has nearby parking facilities for bicycles.
Useful apps: Handy transport apps in Rome include journey-planners Moovit and MooneyGo!. The city’s public transport
company is ATAC, with traffic news available on the municipal mobility website, www.atac.roma.it.
Best pubs in Rome to watch Six Nations
For the biggest screens, party atmosphere and commentary in English, it would be hard to beat Scholars Lounge (Via del Plebiscito 101/b) just off the central Piazza Venezia –Rome’s largest Irish bar and past winner of the world’s Irish Pub of the Year.
Italian rugby fans cram into the rugby-mad The Shamrock (Via del Colosseo 1/c) or Camden Town (Via Ostilia 30) – two Irish pubs on opposite sides of the Colosseum – with a lively atmosphere guaranteed in both places.
The Fiddler’s Elbow (Via dell’Olmata 43) and the Druid’s Den ((Via di S. Martino Ai Monti 28) –Rome’s oldest and thirdoldest Irish pub respectively – screen the games to their customers who are generally a mix of Italian and foreign.
Finnegans (Via Leonina 66), in the heart of the Monti quarter, also screens the Six Nations and attracts a large English-speaking crowd, mainly from the UK and Ireland.
Other popular pubs showing the rugby games include the Abbey Theatre (Via del Governo Vecchio 51) near Piazza Navona, The Highlander in the historic centre (Vicolo di S. Biagio 9), and The Nag’s Head (Via IV November 138/b) near Piazza Venezia.
Italy versus Wales in Rome during the 2023 Six Nations. Photo credit: Marco Iacobucci Epp / Shutterstock.com.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN FEBRUARY 2025
GUIDE TO WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS MONTH
As Rome leaves behind the darkest days of winter, here are some tips for the best events and things to do in the Eternal City in February 2025.
Six Nations
Rugby fever comes to Rome thanks to the 2025 Six Nations tournament, with the Azzurri facing Wales (8 February) and France (23 February) at the Stadio Olimpico, with the “third half” festivities always spilling over into Rome’s pubs. See page 4.
Free museums
Italy opens its state museums and archaeological sites for free on the first Sunday of the month - 2 February - in parallel to Rome’s free opening of its city-run museums. The list of sites open for free ranges from the Capitoline Museums to the Pan-
theon, the latter of which must be booked online in advance.
Romantic Rome
Valentine’s Day on 14 February offers the perfect chance to explore the romantic side of Rome. Popular places to mark San Valentino include the Giardino degli Aranci or the viewpoint over the Roman Forum from the Capitoline hill, strolling down the Spanish Steps or enjoying the sweeping panorama from the Gianicolo. A quirky but less romantic idea is a visit to to see the skull of St Valentine in the Basilica of Santa Maria in Cosmedin near the Circus Maximus.
Classical music and opera
The Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia classical music programme in February includes a series of concerts conducted by
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Daniele Rustioni, in a performance of Prokofiev’s oratorio Ivan the Terrible, and an evening dedicated to French composers courtesy of violinist Augustin Hadelich and pianist Francesco Piemontesi. Rome’s opera house stages a performance of Lucrezia Borgia by Gaetano Donizetti. See page 30.
Exhibitions
Exhibitions in Rome include a celebration of Edvard Munch (opening on 11 February), a show of works by Surrealist master Salvador Dalí, a retrospective dedicated to photographer Franco Fontana, and an exhibition devoted to women artists active in Rome between the 16th and 19th centuries. See page 26.
Carnevale fun
While no match for Carnevale in Venice, Rome’s centuries-old carnival celebrations inject colour and fun into the city at this time of year. Children dress up fancy cos-
tumes, streets are strewn with colourful confetti, and bakery windows are full of tasty treats such as frappe and castagnole. See page 10.
For more events and things to do in Rome see the What’s On section of our website www. wantedinrome.com.
Giardino degli Aranci is a favourite on Valentine's Day. Photo credit: nomadFra / Shutterstock.com.
Palazzo Altemps is among the museums open for free on 2 February. Photo credit: Takashi Images / Shutterstock.com.
CARNEVALE: ITALY’S BEST CARNIVALS
WHERE TO CELEBRATE CARNEVALE IN ITALY IN 2025
Italy marks carnival season each year with fancy dress costumes and masks, elaborate parades and food, with Carnevale customs varying from region to region.
Traditionally carnival is the period of fun and festivities preceding the 40 days of fasting and prayer that Christians observe during the solemnity of Lent, which begins on Ash Wednesday. Carnevale 2025 begins officially on Sunday 16 February and ends with Shrove Tuesday on 4 March.
What are the origins of Carnevale?
The origins of carnival can be traced back to the ancient Roman festival of Saturnalia when the social order was reversed and slaves exchanged places with their masters. Others suggest its origins date back to pagan rites and ceremonies to mark the passage from winter to spring.
Over the centuries, Carnevale festivities were adapted to fit in with the Catholic liturgical calendar, concluding on Martedì Grasso, the day before Ash Wednesday. As a result, Carnevale does not have fixed annual dates and is determined by which day Easter falls each year (20 April in 2025).
The word “Carnevale” is likely to have originated in Venice, the Italian city best associated with the festival. The original meaning of the word is open to interpretation however many believe it is derived from the Latin expression carnem levare, literally meaning “to remove meat”.
During Carnevale season in Italy it is common to see children in fancy dress, festooning the streets of towns and cities with brightly-coloured confetti.
Here we take a look at some of Italy’s best known destinations for celebrating Carnevale.
Venice
Considered the Italian queen of carnival cities, Venice stages Carnevale events along its canals and across its bridges and squares, attracting hordes of crowds each year. The 2025 edition of the carnival is dedicated to Casanova, with celebrations kicking off on Valentine’s Day. Costumed visitors can enjoy spectacular water parades, allegorical floats, masked balls and night parades, as well as the Festa delle Marie pageant whose 12 contestants vie to be crowned the “most beautiful Maria”. Carnevale di Venezia dates back to the 14th century, maybe earlier, and over the centuries the event was frequently
Carnevale in Venice.
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forbidden under various rulers. For 2025 programme details see Carnevale di Venezia official website, www.carnevale.venezia.it.
Viareggio
One of Italy’s best known carnivals, with a tradition dating to 1873, Carnevale is serious business in this coastal city in northern Tuscany. Central to the carnival festivities are the Sunday parades along the seafront, featuring gigantic floats with enormous papiermâché caricatures poking fun at politicians and celebrities. Viareggio is also home to the Burlamacco, a masked carnival clown created in 1930 by the futurist painter Uberto Bonetti. For details of the 2025 celebrations see Viareggio Carnevale website, www.viareggio.ilcarnevale.com.
Ivrea
This town near Turin in the northern Piemonte region is famed for its ancient carnival celebrations, particularly the Battle of the Oranges, essentially a huge food fight. Staged during the final days of Carnevale, the spectacle evokes the defiance of the town’s inhabitants who rose up against their tyrannical overlord in the Middle Ages after he attempted to rape a local woman on her wedding night. According to tradition she reacted by beheading him, sparking a rebellion. This struggle for freedom is commemorated in the annual battle that pits aranceri orange handlers on foot - representing the people - against aranceri in carriages - representing the tyrant. For details about the 2025 carnival see Storico Carnevale di Ivrea website, www.storicocarnevaleivrea.it.
One of Italy’s most curious carnival celebrations can be found in Mamoiada, in the Nuoro province of Sardinia. Instead of the colourful carnival floats normally associated with carnevale, the festival in Mamoiada features dancing participants in distinctive costumes with menacing-looking masks. The dance is between the Mamuthones - dressed in black sheepskins, black wooden masks and heavy cowbells - and the Issohadores - wearing white masks, white and red costumes, and carrying a lasso rope with which
Mamoiada
Carnevale in Mamaioda. Photo: Tore65 / Shutterstock.com.
Carnevale in Viareggio.
Carnevale in Ivrea. Photo credit: Karta-Ivrea / Shutterstock.com.
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they “catch” spectators. For updates on the 2025 festivities see Comune di Mamoiada website, www.comune.mamoiada.nu.it.
Acireale
The most famous carnival in Sicily, the Carnevale di Acireale dates back to the late 16th century. The popular event features both giant and miniature allegorical floats made of papier-mâché and flowers, lighting up the Baroque centre of the Sicilian town. The parade is known for its protagonists dressed in 17thcentury style masks, that traditionally poked fun at the clergy and the aristocracy. Carnival season in Acireale is full of folk music and dancing and culminates in the burning at the stake of “Re Carnevale” (King Carnival) followed by a spectacular fireworks display. For details of 2025 events see Carnevale di Acireale website, www.carnevaleacireale.eu.
Fano
The history of the carnevale in Fano, a town in the central Marche region, dates back to 1347, making it the oldest carnival in Italy along with Venice. The colourful parade, led by a local masked character called Vulon, features giant allegorical floats accompanied by musicians playing wild arambita music on makeshift instruments. The carnival is much loved by children as sweets and chocolates rain down on the crowds in the place of confetti during the parades on the three
Sundays before Martedi Grasso. For details of 2025 carnival celebrations see Carnevale di Fano website, www.carnevaledifano.com.
Carnevale in Putignano. Photo credit: vololibero / Shutterstock.com.
The town of Putignano in the southern Puglia region is known for its ancient carnival celebrations which begin officially the day after Christmas with an event in honour of S. Stefano. The festivities continue with seven carnival Thursdays, starting after 17 January on the feast of S. Antonio Abate, with each event dedicated to various categories of local residents. These include monsignors, priests, nuns, widows and widowers, mad people, wives and “cuckolds”. The celebrations end with a carnival funeral on the night of Shrove Tuesday. For details of 2025 events see Carnevale di Putignano website, www.carnevalediputignano.it.
Putignano
Carnevale in Acireale. Photo: solosergio / Shutterstock.com.
Carnevale in Fano.
ARTandSEEK
English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.
Bioparco
Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.
Bowling Silvestri
is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.
Casa del Parco
Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.
Casina di Ra aello
Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.
Cinecittà World
is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.
Climbing
Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.
Explora
e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.
Go-karting
Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.
Gymboree is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.
Hortis Urbis
Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.
Il Nido
Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur
Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.
Rainbow Magicland
e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.
Time Elevator
A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.
Zoomarine
is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
Rome’s reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals.
from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.
Esquilino
Esquilino
Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell’Architettura, Piazza Mafredo Fanti 47. Marconi
Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.
Marconi
The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense’s landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.
The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz
This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatting migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense
This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.
Ostiense
Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.
Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.
Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.
Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.
Pigneto
Pigneto
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Via Fanfulla da Lodi.
2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.
Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.
Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.
Prati
Prati
Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.
Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.
Primavalle
Primavalle
The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.
The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.
Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro
Quadraro
Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure.
NidodiVespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.
Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.
Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.
Rebibbia
Rebibbia
Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station.
Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi).
WelcometoRebibbiaby Zerocalcare. Metro B station.
S. Basilio
S. Basilio
SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.
SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain’s Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.
S. Giovanni
S. Giovanni
Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.
It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.
S. Lorenzo
S. Lorenzo
Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.
Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.
Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.
Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.
S. Pietro
S. Pietro
Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.
Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.
Testaccio
Testaccio
Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.
Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.
Tor Pignattara
Tor Pignattara
Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.
Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.
Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.
Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.
Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.
Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.
Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.
Tor Marancia
Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia
The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.
The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area’s blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS
VATICAN MUSEUMS
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS
Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS
Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
MATTATOIO
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS
Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.
Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
FEBRUARY 2025
6, 7, 8 FEBRUARY
Orchestra e Coro
dell’Accademia di Santa Cecilia
conductor Lorenzo Viotti
Schumann Symphony No. 1 “Spring”
Debussy Printemps
Zemlinsky Frühlingsbegräbnis
20, 21, 22 FEBRUARY
Orchestra dell’Accademia di Santa Cecilia
conductor Kazuki Yamada
piano Alexandre Kantorow
Hindemith Symphonic Metamorphosis of Themes by Carl Maria von Weber
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS
Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
MATTATOIO
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS
Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
ROME’S
MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere
This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Galleria Varsi
A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
La Nuova Pesa
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Monitor
This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nero Gallery
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
Nomas Foundation
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Plus Arte Puls
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
Sala 1
This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
The Gallery Apart
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
TraleVolte
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
Von Buren Contemporary Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.
where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON
Gabriele Basilico at Palazzo Altemps. Roma 1988, courtesy Gabriele Basilico Archivio-Gabriele Basilico, see page 28.
EXHIBITIONS
CARAVAGGIO 2025
7 MARCH-6 JULY
An exhibition hailed as among the most important and ambitious showcases ever of Caravaggio’s work will be held in Rome to coincide with the Vatican’s Jubilee Year. Organisers say the exhibition at Palazzo Barberini will comprise an “exceptional number” of paintings by the Baroque master whose full name was Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio. The exhibited works will include loans from prestigious national and international collections as well as two rediscovered masterpieces on display for the first time together and some new discoveries. Organised especially for the 2025 Jubilee Year, the exhibition illustrates how Caravaggio (1571-1610) shaped the artistic, religious and social landscape of his era. Exhibition curators Francesca Cappelletti, Maria Cristina Terzaghi and Thomas Clement Salomon say the show will include Caravaggio’s most celebrated works, as well as lesser-known paintings, and will highlight “the power and modernity” of his art. The exhibited pain-
tings include the Portrait of Maffeo Barberini, recently put on public display more than 60 years after its rediscovery, as well as loans from outside Italy including Ecce Homo; Saint Catherine of Alexandria; Martha and Mary Magdalene; and Caravag-
gio’s last painting, The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula, completed before the artist’s death aged 38. The exhibition will also reunite three works commissioned by the banker and patron of the arts Ottavio Costa: Judith and Holofernes from Palazzo Barberini alongside two paintings on loan: Saint John the Baptist in the Wilderness and Saint Francis of Assisi in Ecstasy. The show will be arranged into theme-based sections exploring various aspects of the artist’s career, including the evolution of his style and dramatic use of chiaroscuro. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org.
MUNCH: THE INNER SCREAM
11 FEB-2
JUNE
Palazzo Bonaparte is to host a major exhibition dedicated to the work of Norwegian painter Edvard Munch in what is billed as the largest such retrospective ever held in Italy. The exhibition, which features 100 masterpieces on loan from the Munch Museum in Oslo, comes to Rome from Milan in what organisers say was
Caravaggio at Palazzo Barberini. I Bari, Kimbell Art Museum, Fort Worth.
the most visited show in Italy in 2024. The Rome exhibition, which has a new layout, arrives 20 years after the last show devoted to the Norwegian master (1863–1944) whose paintings are celebrated for delving into the deepest anxieties of the human soul. Curated by Munch expert Patricia G. Berman, the exhibition features Munch’s best known works including Despair, Melancholy, Dancing on a Shore, Girls on the Bridge, The Death of Marat, Starry Night and also one of the versions of The Scream. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.
SALVADOR DALI: TRA ARTE E MITO
25 JAN-27 JULY
The Museo Storico della Fante-
ria showcases works by Surrealist master Salvador Dalí and other European artists and writers linked to the Surrealism movement. Titled Between Art and Myth, the exhibition comprises around 80 works including paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics, books and photographs, on loan from private collections in France and Italy. The exhibited works chart the development of Dalí’s career, from the early days up to the final years of his life. Other artists and writers represented in the exhibition include René Magritte, Max Ernst, André Masson, Man Ray, Leonor Fini, Giorgio de Chirico, along with writers André Breton, Jean Cocteau and Louis Aragon. The Museo Storico della Fanteria is located in Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme
7. Mon-Fri 09.30-19.30. Sat-Sun 09.30 to 20.30. For information and booking contact prenotazioni@ navigaresrl.com.
FRANCO FONTANA: RETROSPECTIVE
13 DEC-31 AUG
Rome hosts a retrospective dedicated to the work of Franco Fontana, the Italian photographer best known for his brilliantly-coloured landscapes, at the Ara Pacis Museum. Described as “a celebration of geometric lines and an explosion of colours”, the exibition is billed as the first major retrospective devoted to the 90-yearold photographer from Modena. One of the greatest Italian photographers of the 20th century, Fontana’s photos have been used as cover art for jazz records and his vibrant style
Salvador Dalí at Museo Storico della Fanteria.
has been referred to as Photographic Trans-avantgarde. The Rome exhibition features more than 200 images, including American landscapes, cityscapes and and swimming pools as well as his iconic portrayals of the Appian Way and Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana in Rome. See cover of this edition. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.
TITINA MASELLI
12 DEC-21 APRIL
Rome marks the centenary of the birth of Tatina Maselli with a major restrospective in her honour at Casino dei Principi of Villa Torlonia and La Sapienza University. The exhibition traces the entire career of Maselli, one of the best known Italian artists of the 20th century, whose work incorporated various movements without ever adhering to one in particular. Starting with the Scuola romana, Maselli embraced Futurism before creating works that seemed to anticipate Pop Art, all the while maintaining a fresh approach. The exhibition is centred around themes dear to the artist, who died in 2005, including portraits and self-portraits, sport, urban landscapes, theatre and still lifes. Casino dei Principi, Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70, www. museivillatorlonia.it.
GABRIELE BASILICO: ROMA
12 DEC-23 FEB
Palazzo Altemps presents Roma, an exhibition of images devoted to the Eternal City by the acclaimed Italian photographer Gabriele Basilico on the 80th anniversary of his birth. The exhibition incorporates the projects carried out by Basilico in Rome, underlining the deep affection for the Italian capital by the Milanese photographer who died in 2013. On display is a selection of more than 50 works, focusing on 20 professional assignments received by the photographer between 1985 and 2011 and their resulting photographic campaigns. Palazzo Altemps, Piazza S. Apollinare 46, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it/palazzo-altemps/.
IL TEMPO DEL FUTURISMO
3 DEC-28 FEB
The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna in Rome stages a major exhibition dedicated to Futurism to mark the 80th anniversary of the death of Filippo Tommaso Marinetti who founded the Italian art movement in 1909. The exhibition focuses on the relationship between art and science/technology, illustrating the Futurism manifesto which
celebrates the impact of “the great discoveries of science” on the human psyche. The show highlights the concepts of speed, machinery and industry evident in the masterpieces of Futurism within the context of an era revolutionised by scientific and technological innovations. On display are about 350 works including paintings, sculptures, projects, drawings, furniture, films, books and posters, with a focus on the literary roots of the Marinetti movement, along with a seaplane, cars, motorcycles and vintage scientific instruments. The exhibited works come from Italian and international museums, including loans from MoMA, the Metropolitan Museum of New York, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Estorick Collection in London and the Kunstmuseum Den Haag in The Hague. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, www.lagallerianazionale.com.
CARAVAGGIO: THE PORTRAIT UNVEILED
23 NOV-23 FEB
A rarely-seen painting by Italian Baroque genius Caravaggio goes on public display, for the first time, at Rome’s Palazzo Barberini. The painting is a portrait of Monsignor Maffeo Barberini, the future Pope Urban
Franco Fontana at the Ara Pacis. Phoenix, Ariziona (1979).
VIII who ruled the Catholic Church and the Papal States from 1623 until his death in 1644. The work dates to the turn of the 17th century and is part of an exhibition curated by Palazzo Barberini director Thomas Clement Salomon and art historian Paola Nicita. The painting, which depicts the cleric and patron of the arts in his early 30s, is believed to have been in the collection of the noble Barberini family for centuries before passing into private hands in the mid 1930s, around the time the estate was dispersed. In 1963 the renowned art critic Roberto Longhi authenticated the painting as the work of Caravaggio who only completed a handful of portaits before his death, aged just 38, in 1610. “It is not a rediscovered painting, it has been known about since the 1960s, but since then it had only been seen by five or six specialists” – Nicita told news agency ANSA – “Not to mention that portraits of Caravaggio are extremely rare, some have been lost, others have never been traced”. The painting portrays a seated Barberini wearing a biretta and cassock, clutching a folded letter in one hand and pointing with the other, as he glances to his right. The work makes strong use of chiaroscuro, a technique employing dramatic use of light and shadow, for which Caravaggio is famous. “It is the Caravaggio painting that everyone has wanted to see for years” - Salomon said - “It has never been exhibited, lent, or the subject of exhibitions”. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org.
GUGLIELMO MARCONI: VEDERE L’INVISIBILE
8 NOV-25 APRIL
An exhibition in Rome celebrates the extraordinary legacy of Guglielmo Marconi, the Italian inventor and electrical engineer who pioneered the science of radio communication. The exhibition, part of Italy’s celebrations to mark the 150th anniversary of Marconi’s birth, takes place at the Vittoriano and Palazzo Venezia. Known as the father of radio, Marconi developed and marketed the first successful long-distance wireless telegraph and in 1901 broadcast the first transatlantic radio signal. The exhibition features hundreds of documents, photos, artefacts and archive film footage, exploring the innovations that brought Marconi to international prominence as well as providing insights into the private life of the inventor from Bologna. For visiting details see website, www.vive.cultura.gov.it.
PIETRO RUFFO: L’ULTIMO MERAVIGLIOSO MINUTO
29 OCT-16 FEB
Rome’s Palazzo Esposizioni presents an exhibition by contemporary Roman artist Pietro Ruffo. Curated by Sébastien Delot, director of the collection of the Musée National Picasso in Paris, the show is the largest solo exhibition by Ruffo ever held to date by a public institution. The more than 50 works
on display will examine the relationship between human beings and the planet, inviting viewers to “consider the wonderful potential of our presence on Earth”. Organisers say the exhibition brings together “works of a different nature that form a single story, a long and complex journey through space and time, which ends with a great tribute to the city of Rome.” Palazzo Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioniroma.it.
ROMA PITTRICE 25 OCT-23 MARCH
The Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi Museum presents an exhibition dedicated to women artists active in Rome between the 16th and 19th centuries. Titled Roma Pittrice. Artiste al lavoro tra XVI e XIX secolo, the exhibition comprises more than 130 works, many displayed publicly for the first time, by 56 artists. Organisers say the aim of the show is to highlight the paintings and careers of these artists who were often overlooked due to lack of documentation or because their works had been attributed to male painters. The artists whose work is on exhibited include Maria Felice Tibaldi Subleyras, Angelika Kaufmann, Laura Piranesi, Marianna Candidi Dionigi, Louise Seidler and Emma Gaggiotti, whose works were mostly kept in storage over the years. The exhibition also includes works by famed painters including Lavinia Fontana, Artemisia Gentileschi and Giovanna Garzoni as well as lesser-known ones such as Giustiniana Guidotti, Ida Botti or Amalia De Angelis. A significant number of the works on display come from Rome’s city museums, with many other paintings on loan from prestigious collections including the Accademia di San Luca, Accademia di Brera, Uffizi Galleries, Pilotta of Parma, Royal Museums of Turin, National Portrait Gallery in London and the Thorvaldsen Museum in Copenhagen. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, www.museodiroma.it.
Antonio Pappano, Conductor Emeritus of the Accademia di Santa Cecilia, returns to Rome with a 20th-century programme including Debussy’s Three Nocturnes and Busoni’s Concerto for Piano, Male Chorus, and Orchestra, featuring Ukrainian soloist Vadym Kholodenko.
JUNIORCHESTRA
2, 3, 7 FEB
The JuniOrchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, conducted by Simone Genuini with narrator Riccardo Rossi, bring to life the fairytale Peter and the Wolf by Sergej Prokofiev, for ages 5 upwards.
DANIIL TRIFONOV
5 FEB
Pianist Daniil Trifonov presents a diverse programme with unusual
opera
LUCREZIA BORGIA
16-23 FEB
Roberto Abbado conducts and Valentina Carrasco directs this new Teatro dell’Opera di Roma production of Lucrezia Borgia, a melodramatic opera in a prologue and two acts by Gaetano Donizetti. Felice Romani wrote the Italian libretto after the play Lucrezia Borgia by Victor Hugo, in its turn after the legend of Lucrezia Borgia. The opera was first performed on 26 December 1833 at La Scala in Milan. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
CARACALLA FESTIVAL
29 JUNE-7 AUG
Rome’s opera house has unveiled its programme for its open-air summer festival at the Baths of Caracalla. Under the title “Between the Sacred and
and captivating pieces, including Samuel Barber’s virtuosic Sonata Op. 26 and the transcription of the famous ballet The Sleeping Beauty by Tchaikovsky, along with a selection of Chopin’s waltzes.
LORENZO VIOTTI
6-8 FEB
Lorenzo Viotti conducts the Orchestra and Choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia with soprano Siobhan Stagg, baritone Oleksandr Pushniak and chorus master Andrea Secchi performing music by Schumann, Debussy and Zemlinsky.
AUGUSTIN HADELICH –FRANCESCO PIEMONTESI
12 FEB
Violinist Augustin Hadelich and pianist Francesco Piemontesi present an evening of French music by composers Nicolas de Grigny, Debussy, Rameau, Poulenc, Kurtág and Franck.
the Human,” the 2025 edition of the Caracalla Festival will comprise a diverse range of genres including opera, musicals, dance, sacred music and pop concerts. The festival opens on the feast of Rome’s patron saints Peter and Paul with a special event linked to the Jubilee Year at a new location in addition to the Baths of Caracalla: the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. The ancient venue, which dates to the fourth century, will host operatic productions for the first time, offering a “more intimate stage” according to the festival’s director Damiano Michieletto. Central to the 2025 programme are four new productions: Handel’s Resurrection, Verdi’s La Traviata, Mozart’s Don Giovanni and Bernstein’s West Side Story, directed respectively by Ilaria Lanzino, Sláva Daubnerová, Vasily Barkhatov and Damiano Michieletto. The festival’s dance section will see the opera house’s ballet corps, directed by Eleonora Abbagnato, stage two contemporary
DANIELE RUSTIONI
13, 14, 15 FEB
Daniele Rustioni conducts the orchestra, choir and children’s choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, with bass Alexander Roslavets, contralto Marina Prudenskaja and narrator Orlin Anastassov, in a performance of Prokofiev’s oratorio Ivan the Terrible.
KAZUKI YAMADA - ALEXANDRE KANTOROW
20-22 FEB
conductor Kazuki Yamada conducts the Santa Cecilia orchestra, with pianist Alexandre Kantorow, performing music by Hindemith, Rachmaninoff and Stravinsky. All concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For more details including tickets see S. Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.
Ravel’s Bolero directed by Maurice Béjart and Stravinsky’s Le Sacre du printemps with the choreography of Pina Bausch. Dance fans can also look forward to the traditional performance by Roberto Bolle and Friends. Among the acts confirmed for the series of pop concerts, starting on 3 June, are Antonello Venditti, Alessandra Amoroso, Fiorella Mannoia and Giovanni Allevi. The programme closes with La Pasión según San Marcos by Argentine composer Osvaldo Golijov. Tickets for the festival are currently on sale at the box office of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma and online via www.ticketone.it.
classics:
Daniele Rustioni
Poster for Lucrezia Borgia at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.
CULTURE NEWS
AGRIGENTO BECOMES ITALY’S CULTURE CAPITAL
Italy’s president Sergio Mattarella launched Agrigento as the Capitale Italiana della Cultura 2025 with a ceremony in the hilltop Sicilian city on 18 January. Over the course of this year, hundreds of cultural events will take place in Agrigento which won the coveted culture capital status with its bid titled La natura della cultura. Located on Sicily’s southern coast, Agrigento was founded as a Greek colony in the sixth century BC and is celebrated for its UNESCO archaeological area, the Valley of the Temples. The archaeological area stetches from the Rupe Atenea to the acropolis of the original ancient city, as well as the sacred hill with the main Doric temples and the extramural necropolis. Agrigento succeeds Pesaro as Italy’s culture capital and will pass the title to L’Aquila next year. For details of Agrigento’s culture programme see official website, www.agrigento2025.org.
POMPEII UNEARTHS LAVISH THERMAL BATH COMPLEX
Archaeologists in Pompeii have unearthed a large thermal bath complex that has been hailed as a “once in a century discovery” by the site’s director Gabriel Zuchtriegel. The spa was found during excavations at a private house or domus in the Regio IX area of the ancient city which was destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. The bath complex, equipped with hot, warm and cold rooms, has been described as among the largest and most sophisticated of its kind to be discovered at Pompeii. The domus is believed to have been owned by a member of Pompeii’s ruling class who used the impressive baths to affirm his social status as well as to curry favour with his guests, Zuchtriegel said. The bath complex, which could host up to 30 people, was connected to a recently discovered banquet hall, decorated with pristine frescoes depicting Greek mythological figures inspired by the Trojan War.
ANGLO AMERICAN BOOKSHOP CLOSES AFTER 70 YEARS
Rome’s Anglo American Bookshop, a landmark for the English-speaking community in the capital for more than 70 years, closed its doors for good last month. Cristina Donati, whose family ran the bookstore on Via della Vite near the Spanish Steps since 1953, said she was forced to shut down due to “unsustainable” costs of rent and custom duties on books. The closure comes a year after the death of the shop’s founder Dino Donati – Cristina’s father – and two years after the business relocated to a smaller premises nearby. The move meant downsizing the shop’s stock to 6,000 books – a seventh of the number of volumes on the shelves of the original store. Due to its first-floor location and lack of window display at street level, the smaller premises attracted fewer customers. Over the decades, dozens of illustrious figures and celebrities passed through the shop’s doors, including former Italian president Giorgio Napolitano, actor Leonardo Di Caprio and authors Paulo Coelho, John Grisham and Wilbur Smith. Over the last couple of decades Rome has seen the closure of several Englishlanguage bookstores including the Lion Bookshop on Via dei Greci, the Economy Book Center on Via Torino and the English Bookstore on Via di Ripetta. A handful of English bookshops in Rome have resisted this unfortunate trend, including the Almost Corner on Via del Moro 45 and the Open Door on Via Lungaretta 23, both in Trastevere; Otherwise on Via del Governo Vecchio 80, near Piazza Navona; and The Little Reader on Via Conte Verde 66b in the Esquilino district. Andy Devane
Agrigento is Italy’s culture capital 2025.
Anglo American Bookshop shuts its doors.
Photo courtesy Parco Archeologico di Pompeii.
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.
Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it
MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES
TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com
Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct
Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct
Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct
Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct
Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
classical cinema
RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it
Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com
RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it
Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org
Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com
There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.
Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org
There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com
cinema
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals.
Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com
theatreCasa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
theatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com
Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
ROME WANTED in junior
HOMERATHON: ST STEPHEN’S
SCHOOL STAGES 24-HOUR ILIAD READING
Gaia G. and Sebastian S.
St Stephen’s School, located in the heart of historical Rome (Aventine Hill), will host a 24-hour Iliad Reading Marathon on 7-8 February. This event is organised by IB Classical Greek students Gaia, Indira, Massimo and Sebastian and our teacher Inge Weustink. Sponsored by the St Stephen’s Lyceum, we’re calling it a “Homerathon.”
Students, parents, alumni, faculty, staff, trustees, and special guests will be reading the 24 books of the Iliad in different languages: Homeric Greek, English, Italian, Modern Greek, Dutch, German, French, Spanish, Esperanto, American Sign Language, Turkish, Arabic, Latin, Mandarin, Japanese, Korean, Lithuanian, Sardinian, Russian, Icelandic, etc. A translation in English will be projected on a screen throughout the entire event.
Our goal is to embrace the power of Classics in the Modern Age. Reading the Iliad in different languages, from the Homeric Greek in which it was recited almost 3,000 years ago, to many of the languages we speak today at St Stephen’s, will be a powerful way to reflect on war and peace from antiquity till today. This event is also connected to St Stephen’s School’s year theme: “Peace.” Homer’s epic about the war between the Greeks and the Trojans can be considered as much a poem about peace as a poem about war. This project is also curated on an artistic level. We, IB Classical Greek students, are designing booklets containing visual and textual representations of each book of the Iliad for the audience to navigate through. The atmosphere will be welcoming and informal, with an open forum and interactive 24-hour reading.
The 24-hour Iliad Reading Marathon will start with the reading of book 1 at 18.00 on Friday 7 February. From then, one book an hour will be read. Book 24 will be read on Saturday 8 February, at 17.00.
You are welcome to participate in the whole event or part of it. Food and drink will be available. You can bring a pillow, a blanket, etc.
The “Homerathon”, held at the school, will be live-streamed and recorded. We hope that many people, from all over the world,
will be inspired to participate. You can register for the event at this link: https://lp.constantcontactpages. com/ev/reg/esx2fxq Image created by Indira V.C. and Gaia G.
WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists
Wanted in Rome accepts creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations. Teachers who would like to propose a project can contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.
Illustration by Alice and Martin P.
By Kate Zagorski
RIGATONI ALLA GRICIA
Although it often plays second ddle to the famous Roman pasta triumvirate of carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe, la gricia is in many ways the most Roman of them all. Giving equal limelight to both guanciale and pecorino it combines chunks of crunchy pork jowl with a creamy cheese coating to celebrate the very best of local produce.
Sometimes referred to as a ‘white amatriciana’, gricia originated in the countryside around Rome where the skill in balancing just a few ingredients to create something delicious helped to form the backbone of traditional Roman cuisine. It’s now the perfect ‘empty the fridge’ dish; quick, simple and comforting. Be sure to take some time at the end to stir in the pecorino carefully: tossing the pasta, the starchy water and the guanciale fat with the cheese will magically bind everything together right before your eyes.
Ingredients
(Serves 2)
200g rigatoni
200g guanciale
60ml white wine
50g grated pecorino romano Black pepper
• Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, add salt and set the pasta to cook for one minute less than the indicated time.
• Trim the rind from the guanciale and cut into 1cm strips.
• Heat a frying pan and add the guanciale, cook for a few minutes until the fat is released and it is turning crispy at the edges. Add the white wine and simmer for 2 minutes to evaporate the alcohol.
• Add the almost cooked pasta to the pan with a good splash of the cooking water, continue to cook for another minute.
• When the pasta is al dente turn o the heat and sprinkle in the pecorino, toss everything together well to thicken and coat the pasta. Add some freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.
The best cacio e pepe in Rome, seven unmissable restaurants
Cacio e pepe is the quintessential Roman pasta dish, made with simple ingredients but far from simple to prepare. There are those who like it with hand-made tonnarello, and those who prefer spaghetti. Here are the best cacio e pepe restaurants in Rome, according to Puntarella Rossa.
7. FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO
In Testaccio, chef and restaurateur Flavio De Maio serves the finest specialities of Roman cuisine. Flavio's cacio e pepe recipe doesn’t call for a frying pan, but for a ‘mantecatura’ off the heat with pecorino romano, black pepper, the cooking water from the pasta and a dash of olive oil (“to ensure that when the dish cools down, the cheese mixes with the oil and adds a burst of flavour, taking the edge off the pecorino”). Price: €11.
6. DA FELICE
Since Felice Trivelloni opened his osteria in 1936, the restaurant has been something of an institution for Roman cuisine. Their forte is indeed the cacio e pepe; it is plentiful and delicious and made with tonnarelli, cooking water from the pasta, pecorino and olive oil, for an irresistible creaminess. The finishing touch is the way in which it’s served: the pasta, cooking water and pecorino are mixed directly on the customer’s plate. Price: €13.
5. DA DANILO
The cacio e pepe served at Trattoria Da Danilo in Esquillino is definitely one of the most renowned in the city. The most famous dish is, of course, the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, made with olive oil, freshly ground black pepper, cooking water from the pasta and pecorino romano. The difference at Danilo is that the pasta is mixed together directly in the pecorino romano wheel itself. The result is a superb creaminess and an intense flavour. Price: €10.
4. DA CESARE
Here you can enjoy two versions of cacio e pepe, one with dry pasta (spaghetti, rigatoni), or fresh, handmade tonnarelli. Chef Leonardo Vignoli explains that to make cacio e pepe you need to mix the ground black pepper with the grated pecorino romano (which should have been matured for 6 months minimum) and a little cold water, then add the al dente spaghetti and give it a first mix off the heat. You should then
add a generous spoonful of cooking water from the pasta, put it back on the heat and stir it until it is creamy. Price: €9.
3.
VYTA ENOTECA REGIONALE DEL LAZIO
At Vyta you can try two versions of cacio e pepe, the classic variety or the summer version: tonnarelli, pecorino romano, fresh pepper, lemon and Roman mint. Here’s the recipe for a 500g serving: cook the tonnarelli in lots of salted water. While the pasta is still on the heat, take a spoonful of the cooking water and put it in a large saucepan. Add ground pepper to the water. Drain the pasta, put in pan and mix. Keep the pan on the heat and mix very slowly, using 100g of pecorino and grated lemon rind. Keep stirring until there’s the creaminess of cacio e pepe. Then add mint leaves. Serve immediately, adding another 50g of pecorino. Price: €13.
2. LA TERRAZZA DELL’HOTEL EDEN
At the Hotel Eden, one of Rome’s most exclusive hotels, award-winning chef Fabio Ciervo is famous for his spaghetti cacio e pepe from Madagascar. He has reinterpreted the Roman pasta dish with thick spaghetti, chicken stock, pecorino romano, rose petals and black pepper from Madagascar. This is without a doubt one of the best cacio e pepe in Rome, but it is very expensive in comparison to our other favourites. Price: €45.
1. ROSCIOLI
Established in 1824 and run by a family spanning four generations, Roscioli is a renowned Roman restaurant. Its menu includes all the classic Roman dishes but the star of the show is the cacio e pepe. And so what’s in theirs? Tonnarelli, pecorino romano, cheese from Moliterno, pecorino that has been matured in the earth from Sogliano and Malaysian pepper. It’s not such a simple list as the mix of cheeses gives the dish a special flavour. At the very end, Javan and Sarawakan pepper are ground together and then toasted as the finishing touch – it’s sensational. Price: €12.
www.puntarellarossa.it
Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194, www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it
Felice, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, tel. 065746800, www.feliceatestaccio.it
Da Danilo, Via Petrarca 13, tel. 0677200111, www.trattoriadadanilo.com
Da Cesare, Via del Casaletto 45, tel. 06536015, www.trattoriadacesare.it
VyTa, Via Frattina 94, tel. 0647786876, www.vytaenotecalazio.it
La Terrazza Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49, www.dorchestercollection.com/en/rome/hotel-eden
Roscioli, Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 066875287, www.salumeriaroscioli.com
Associations
American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org
American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org
Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com
Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com
Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli
Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net
Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com
Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
Books
The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.
Almost Corner Bookshop
Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942
Anglo American Bookshop
Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222
Bibliothèque Centre Culturel
Saint-Louis de France (French)
Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it
La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)
Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com
Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Religious
All Saints’ Anglican Church
Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881
Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30
Anglican Centre
Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com
Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00
St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org
Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30
St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)
St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)
Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30
Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00
Comunità di S. Egidio
Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234
Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat
Information line for disabled tel. 800271027
Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre
St Paul’s within-the-Walls
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339
Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it
Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772
Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)
Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351
Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104
The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma
24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers
• Ambulance tel. 118
• Carabinieri tel. 112
• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336
