Wanted in Rome - November 2024 by Wanted in Rome

EDITORIALS

MISCELLANY WHAT'S ON

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini

EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9

PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl

IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari

STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/10/2024

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ROME UNVEILS NEW VIRTUAL GUIDE FOR JUBILEE 2025

BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN November 26 OPERA

28 FESTIVALS

ROME UNVEILS NEW VIRTUAL GUIDE FOR JUBILEE 2025

CITY HOPES NEW AI GUIDE WILL TRANSFORM VISITOR EXPERIENCE

Microsoft has unveiled Julia, a new Artificial Intelligence-based virtual assistant designed to help the more than 30 million visitors expected in Rome for

the Vatican’s Jubilee Year 2025.

The virtual guide, developed in collaboration with OpenAI and the city of Rome, will

be accessible via all main digital messaging channels including WhatsApp.

Julia was created with the aim of making tourist

The new virtual guide was developed in collaboration with OpenAI and the city of Rome.

Andy Devane

information more accessible as well as promoting lesserknown destinations and easing congestion around the most popular sites, in what Rome hopes will lead to “a quiet revolution in how people experience the city”.

Users will be able to ask about visiting information for cultural heritage sites, the best routes to take and tips about hotels, museums, public transport and restaurants, with a wide range of data provided directly by “local operators and accredited external sources”, the city said.

The AI virtual assistant is the brainchild of Roman economist and tourism expert Antonio Preiti who describes Julia as “a personal advisor that you have in your pocket”.

Preiti says that Julia is designed to combat overtourism and the “click bait” approach of the internet which, he claims, “reinforces crowd pressure” on famous tourist attractions such as the Colosseum, the Pantheon and the Vatican.

Describing it as “a really dangerous circle”, Preiti says the internet convinces tourists that “the Colosseum is the only thing. In this city, you may find many, many, very, very interesting things. It’s not just the Colosseum.”

As for the name, Preiti said Julia was chosen because

it is common across many languages and also has a deep connection to the history of Rome, with the daughters of Julius Caesar and Augustus both called Giulia.

The multilingual guide, which will be available soon, was presented in the capital last month by Microsoft CEO and chairman Satya Nadella and Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri.

“We are among the first in the world to make a tool with such innovative features available to millions of citizens and tourists” - Gualtieri said - “Julia is a reliable virtual guide, complete with all the useful information to move around, discover and enjoy this immense heritage in a creative way.”

The launch of Julia coincides with the Vatican’s unveiling of its official Jubilee mascot, a cartoon character called Luce, whose name means “light” in Italian.

The smiling character, dressed in a yellow raincoat and muddy boots, was unveiled by the Vatican’s chief Jubilee organiser, Archbishop Rino Fisichella, who said the aim was to engage with “the pop culture so beloved by our young people.”

The mascot, with her pilgrim’s staff and dog Santino, is designed to guide young pilgrims towards hope and faith, according to the Catholic News Agency (CNA).

Luce’s yellow raincoat references both the Vatican flag and the journey “through life’s storms”, CNA reports, with her mudstained boots representing a long, difficult journey and her staff symbolising “the pilgrimage toward eternity”.

The seashell motif in Luce’s eyes recalls the scallop shell of the Camino de Santiago, an ancient emblem of the pilgrimage journey.

Designed by Simone Legno, the Italian co-founder of pop culture brand tokidoki, Luce and her pilgrim friends Fe, Xin, and Sky will represent the Holy See’s pavilion at Expo 2025 in Osaka, Japan, alongside Caravaggio’s painting The Entombment of Christ.

Luce got a mixed reaction from Italians on social media, with many comparing her to Swedish climate change activist Greta Thunberg due to her yellow raincoat.

Jubilee 2025 mascot Luce.

BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN NOVEMBER Lifestyle

A QUICK GUIDE TO WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS MONTH

November in Rome is traditionally one of the quieter times to visit the Eternal City however based on the hordes of tourists so far this year it may be more crowded than usual.

Rome offers a swathe of cultural events and things to do in November as the capital enjoys the last month of autumn and edges closer to the start of Christmas season.

November kicks off with a national public holiday for All Saints’ Day which this year falls on a Friday meaning a long weekend for many people in Italy.

The Roma Jazz Festival, now in its 48th year, offers jazz concerts by Italian and international acts including Lakecia Benjamin, Nubia Garcia, and Bill Evans Vansband Allstars, on dates between 1 and 23 November.

Museums and archaeological sites in Rome will be open for free on Sunday 3 November. The free sites in the capital include landmarks such as the Capitoline Museums and Castel Sant’Angelo as well as lesser known gems including Centrale Montemartini.

Look to the skies on the morning of 4 November as the Frecce Tricolori jets stage a spectacular aeronautical display to mark National Unity and Armed Forces Day, a national day in Italy but not a public holiday.

Romaeuropa, Rome’s cutting-edge arts festival, offers a packed programme of theatre, contemporary dance, music, digital art and events for kids, until 17 November. November highlights include the Groupe Acrobatique of Tangier in a colourful

Opera Lifestyle

performance of acrobatics, break-dance, taekwondo and freestyle (12-14 Nov); and Christian Fennesz and Alva Noto (17 Nov) who will stage a groundbreaking collaboration in honour of Ryuchi Sakamoto.

Rome’s municipal rose garden on the slopes of the Aventine Hill overlooking the Circus Maximus will be open for free every day until Sunday 10 November, to allow visitors to admire the autumn blooms.

The Accademia di Santa Cecilia programme of classical music concerts includes pianist Rudolf Buchbinder performing and conducting three of Mozart’s most significant piano concertos (21-24 Nov), and music director Daniel Harding joining forces with violinist Lisa Batiashvili in a performance of music by Prokofiev, Debussy and Brahms (28-30 Nov).

Exhibitions in Rome in November include Guercino. L’era Ludovisi a Roma, examining the magnificent artistic legacy of Baroque master Guercino and the noble Ludovisi family in 17th-century Rome; Botero at Palazzo Bonaparte, the largest exhibition in Italy ever dedicated to the Colombian painter; a showcase of works by Spanish avant-garde artist Joan Miró at the Museo Storico della Fanteria; and a new exhibition by contemporary Roman artist Pietro Ruffo at Palazzo Esposizioni.

The International Festival of Sacred Music and Art will be held in Rome and the Vatican from 15-19 November, with a series of concerts in basilicas featuring renowned orchestras, choirs and soloists performing 18th- and 19th-century sacred music.

Rome’s opera house stages Simon Boccanegra, Verdi’s magnificent telling of a humble 14th century Genoan who rises to become Doge of the city, conducted by Michele Mariotti and directed by Richard Jones (27 Nov-5 Dec).

The Botanic Garden in Rome will be illuminated at night over the Christmas

season once again with enchanting tunnels of lights and magical installations. Titled Trame di Luce, the multi-sensory event of light and sound opens on 30 November and is designed for both adults and children.

For more events and things to do in Rome see our What’s On guide, www.wantedinrome. com.

Rome's Non-Catholic Cemetery.

Frecce Tricolori fly over Rome on 4 November.

This park was originally the home of King Victor Emmanuel III during the first half of the 20th century. It now houses the Egyptian embassy and consulate. The park is also a training ground for athletes, a concert stage for music-lovers, and a haven for locals from all that is hectic. The park hosts the long-running Incontra il Mondo festival of world music each summer. Its landscape is partly wooded and there is a lake with canoeing. In addition, the park’s 67m-high Monte Antenne gives hikers a panoramic view as well as access to an archaeological site which uncovered the ruins of an 1870 fort. Area: Salario.

PARCO DEGLI ACQUEDOTTI

This 240-hectare green space, tucked in the Appia Antica regional park, is known for possessing over half of the 11 major ancient Roman aqueducts and it takes around two hours to walk the whole network. The park's Villa Vignacce was built between the second and fourth centuries AD most likely by the brick-maker Q. Servilius Pudens. You can even see Pudens’ stamp on some of the bricks, a rarity as buildings were usually constructed so the stamps were not visible. Another architectural highlights is the Casale di Roma Vecchia, a house-tower that was likely used as part of a coaching inn during the 13th century. There is also the burial chamber of the “tomb of a hundred steps” along with some of Via Latina’s paving stones. Area: Appia Antica.

PARCO DELL'APPIA ANTICA

This wedge-shaped piece of land stretches over an impressive 3,400 hectares, and encompasses the rural estates Tormarancia and Farnesiana, Tor Fiscale’s green area, the Caffarella valley and 16 km of the ancient consular road, as well as various natural and man-made attractions. Its location adjacent to the Alban Hills makes it a biological hub and a favourite place for nature lovers. The park is closed to private traffic but can be explored by taking numerous bicycle and walking tours. In additon to the Caffarella valley, the principal sites include the Porta S. Sebastiano, Cecilia Metella, Circo di Massenzio, and a ride up Via Appia Antica. Other places of interest are the Museo delle Mura, the church of S. Urbano, the Basilica of St Sebastian and its catacombs, the St Callixtus catacombs, the Circus and Villa of Maxentius, the Mausoleum of Romulus, the Caetani Castle, and the Villa Quintili and aqueduct. Area: Appia Antica.

VILLA BORGHESE

Founded on 85 hectares and five centuries of history, Villa Borghese

stretches from Via Veneto to the heart of Parioli. It began as a 16th-century vineyard until Pope Paul V’s nephew, Cardinal Scipione Borghese, made it a private park. The Borghese family handed over ownership of the park to the city in 1903. The Pincian hill, or Pincio, is located on the edge of Piazza del Popolo, and offers stunning views of the capital. Pincio's gardens and staircases were laid out in 1809-14 according to designs by Giuseppe Valadier. Bikes and rickshaws can be rented throughout the park which contains the city's zoo, known as the Bioparco. It also plays host to one of the biggest equestrian events in Rome each May at the Piazza di Siena. The park is best known for housing the Galleria Borghese, home to one of the world's finest art collections with sculptures by Bernini and Canova, and paintings by Caravaggio, Correggio, Raphael and Titian. There is also another museum in the park's orangery: the Museo Carlo Bilotti, Aranciera di Villa Borghese, whose collection includes 18 works by de Chirico. The park contains a recreation of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre which stages an annual Shakespeare festival; the state-of-the-art Casa del Cinema which screens Italian classics and holds foreign film festivals; and the world’s smallest cinema, the Cinema dei Piccoli. There is also a small artificial lake, known as the laghetto, where visitors can go boating. Area: centre.

VILLA CELIMONTANA

This 110,00-sqm park is situated between the Colosseum and the Baths of Caracalla. In 1553 the Mattei family purchased the land, to construct a villa, and subsequently created the beautiful garden, decorated with exotic plants, bas-reliefs and rich historical artistry. Designed by Michelangelo’s student, Giacomo del Duca, the villa boasts 16th-century fountains, a neo-gothic temple and an obelisk dedicated to Egyptian pharaoh Rameses II, which is rumoured to hold the ashes of Emperor Augustus. Confiscated by the Italian government during world war one, the property is now the home of the Italian Geographical Society and is open to the public. The park can be entered from either Piazza SS. Giovanni e Paolo or from Piazza della Navicella. Area: Celio.

VILLA GLORI

Villa Glori sits on a hill between the districts of Parioli and Flaminio and looks down over the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The park is dedicated as a memorial for all Romans who have given up their lives for Italy. In 1867, a battle took place in Vincenzo Glori’s vineyard, where the Cairoli brothers led 70 fighters against the papal troops.

The pope’s forces defeated the rebel group and the scattered survivors fled to join Garibaldi’s army. In 1923 Rome decided to make the park a memorial park to all the victims of world war one, later re-dedicating the park to all Romans who died for their country. Area: Parioli.

VILLA PAMPHILJ

Comprising 184 hectres, this is Rome's largest landscaped public park. Located in the Monteverde district, the park is divided in two by Via Leone XIII, with numerous entrances on the surrounding roads. One of the best-preserved villas, the Villa Pamphilj house was recently restored for government receptions. Purchased by Pamfilio Pamphilj in 1630, the estate was later developed by Pope Innocent X who commissioned the architects Algardi and Grimaldi to design a larger villa, which was completed in 1647. The Italian state purchased part of the land in 1957 and, after numerous additional acquisitions, opened the park to the public in 1972. There is the Casino del Bel Respiro, which hosts international meetings and state receptions; the Garden Theatre, designed for outdoor performances; and the Villino Corsini, which is the seat of the Casa dei Teatri. You can also see the Aqua Traiana aqueduct which now supplies the many fountains in the park, the Fontanone on the Gianicolo as well as fountains in Trastevere. The Vivi Bistrot cafè and restaurant is located in the heart of the park and there are numerous walking trails and bike paths. Area: Monteverde.

VILLA SCIARRA

The Villa Sciarra is located on the slopes of the Janiculum. The villa changed hands many times, and was given its current title when it was acquired by the Colonna di Sciarra family in 1811. It was severely damaged during the 1849 fighting between Garibaldi and the papal forces at Porta S. Pancrazio nearby. In 1902 a wealthy American couple, George Wurts and Henriette Tower, reassembled and restored the estate and renovated rthe house in the neo-renaissance style. After Wurts’ death, Tower donated the villa to the Italian state as a public park in 1932. The 70,000 sqm-estate, which hosts the Italian Institute of Germanic Studies, features exotic examples of topiary shaped to resemble animals and a garden representing the months of the year. One of Rome's smaller and lesser-known parks, the villa can be accessed at Via Dandolo 47. Area: Monteverde.

Villa Borghese, Villa Pamphilj.

Pictured at the top Parco dell'Appia Antica, below left to right: Villa Sciarra,

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis

Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland

e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine

is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Rome’s reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals.

from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino

Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell’Architettura, Piazza Mafredo Fanti 47. Marconi

Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.

Marconi

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense’s landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz

This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatting migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense

This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense

Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.

Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Pigneto

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.

Prati

Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle

The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro

Quadraro

Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure.

NidodiVespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.

Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia

Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station.

Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi).

WelcometoRebibbiaby Zerocalcare. Metro B station.

S. Basilio

SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain’s Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

S. Giovanni

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro

Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Testaccio

Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara

Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.

Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.

Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia

Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area’s blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

NOVEMBER 2024

7 / 8 / 9 November

conductor

Maxim Emelyanychev

piano

Leif Ove Andsnes

Widmann Con brio

Beethoven Piano Concerto No. 5 “Emperor”

Haydn Symphony No. 103 “Drumroll”

13 November

Fiati di Santa Cecilia

Music by Beethoven, Mozart, Ibert, Berio, Gershwin

14 / 15 / 16 November

conductor Semyon Bychkov

Bach

Mass In B Minor BWV 232

Orchestra and Choir of the Accademia di Santa Cecilia

22 November

La Lira d’Orfeo

Händel

Rodelinda opera in concert version

20 / 21 / 23 November

conductor and pianist Rudolf Buchbinder

Mozart

Piano Concertos K 595, K 467, K 466

28/ 29 / 30 November

conductor Daniel Harding

violin Lisa Batiashvili

Debussy Prélude à l’après-midi d’un faune

Prokoﬁev

Violin Concerto No. 2

Brahms Symphony No. 2

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Capitoline Museums

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Museo Napoleonico

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Colonna

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Palazzo Merulana

ROME’S

MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Louise Seidler, dopo 1819. Roma Pittrice exhibition, see page 26.

EXHIBITIONS

GUERCINO: THE LUDOVISI ERA IN ROME

31 OCT-26 JAN

A major new exhibition in the Italian capital highlights the magnificent artistic legacy of the Italian Baroque master Guercino and the noble Ludovisi family in 17th-century Rome. The exhibition focuses on the artist Giovanni Francesco Barbieri, better known as Guercino (1591-1666), and the Ludovisi dynasty, personified by Cardinal Ludovico and his uncle Alessandro Ludovisi, Pope Gregory XV. The exhibition examines the brief but significant Ludovisi papacy (1621-1623), a luminous interlude between the great Borghese and Barberini dynasties, when the

young Guercino asserted himself in Rome thanks to the patronage of Gregorio XV. The Ludovisi set about filling their new family home, the Casino di Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi, with extraordinary works ranging from antiquity to contemporary art of the time, and commissioned artists including Guido Reni, Domenichino, Carracci, Lanfranco, Pietro da Cortona, Van Dyck, Poussin, Bernini and - the pope’s favourite – Guercino. Organised in collaboration with prestigious institutions such as the Uffizi Galleries, the Museo Nazionale Romano and the Capitoline Museums, the exhibition features 121 works from 68 important museums and collections. The exhibition also offers the chance to visit some rooms of the Casino di Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi (also known as Villa Aurora), including the Sala dell’Aurora with Guercino’s famous fresco of the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora. Tickets for the guided tours will be available on a limited basis and by reservation, with booking linked to the purchase of the ticket for the exhibition at the Scuderie. The visits, all guided by an art historian, will last about half an hour and are sched-

Guercino exhibition at Scuderie Quirinale.

Joan Miró at Museo Storico della Fanteria.

uled from 9 November on weekends and holidays. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

PIETRO RUFFO: L’ULTIMO MERAVIGLIOSO MINUTO

29 OCT-16 FEB

Rome’s Palazzo Esposizioni presents an exhibition by contemporary Roman artist Pietro Ruffo. Curated by Sébastien Delot, director of the collection of the Musée National Picasso in Paris, the show is the largest solo exhibition by Ruffo ever held to date by a public institution. The more than 50 works on display will examine the relationship between human beings and the planet, inviting viewers to “consider the wonderful potential of our presence on Earth”. Organisers say the exhibition brings together “works of a different nature that form a single story, a long and complex journey through space and time, which ends with a great tribute to the city of Rome.” Palazzo Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioniroma.it.

ROMA PITTRICE

25 OCT-23 MARCH

The Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi Museum presents an exhibition dedicated to women artists active in Rome between the 16th and 19th centuries. Titled Roma Pittrice. Artiste al lavoro tra XVI e XIX secolo, the exhibition comprises more than 130 works, many displayed publicly for the first time, by 56 artists. Organisers say the aim of the show is to highlight the paintings and careers of these artists who were often overlooked due to lack of documentation or because their works had been attributed to male painters. The artists whose work is on exhibited include Maria Felice Tibaldi Subleyras, Angelika Kaufmann, Laura Piranesi, Marianna Candidi Dionigi, Louise Seidler and Emma Gaggiotti, whose works were mostly kept in storage over the years. The exhibition also includes works by famed painters including Lavinia Fontana, Artemisia Gentileschi and Giovanna Garzoni as well as lesser-known

ones such as Giustiniana Guidotti, Ida Botti or Amalia De Angelis. A significant number of the works on display come from Rome’s city museums, with many other paintings on loan from prestigious collections including the Accademia di San Luca, Accademia di Brera, Uffizi Galleries, Pilotta of Parma, Royal Museums of Turin, National Portrait Gallery in London and the Thorvaldsen Museum in Copenha-

gen. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, www.museodiroma.it.

MARCO RÉA: VIAGGIO SULLA LUNA

12 OCT-9 NOV

Rosso20sette arte contemporanea presents Viaggio sulla luna, an exhibition by Rome painter, illustrator and urban artist Marco Rèa. On display are 21 works on paper and, for the

Roma Pittrice at Palazzo Braschi. Beatrice by Virginia .

first time, works on canvas accompanied by a catalogue with 50 signed and numbered prints. See cover of this edition. Rosso20sette, Via del Sudario 39, www.rosso27.com.

BOTERO

17 SEPT-19 JAN

Palazzo Bonaparte hosts largest exhibition in Italy ever dedicated to Colombian artist Fernando Botero. The show charts the more than 60-year career of the artist, famed for his paintings and sculptures of corpulent figures, who died last year aged 91. Curated by Lina Botero, daughter of the artist, and Botero expert Cristina Carrillo de Albornoz, the show comprises more than 120 works including paintings, watercolours, charcoal, sculptures and some pieces never seen by the public. Among the important Botero works never exhibited before include Homage to Mantegna (1958), recently discovered by Lina Botero through auction house Christie’s, and a version of the infanta from Las Meninas by Velázquez which had always hung in the artist’s Parisian studio. The exhibition also includes the artist’s versions of masterpieces from art history including Raphael’s Fornarina, the Montefeltro diptych by Piero della Francesca, portraits by Rubens and van Eyck, up to the final works that Botero created in 2023 such as a large watercolour of the Odalisque. Organisers say the exhibition features all the classic themes dearest to Botero

including his beloved Latin America, the circus, religion, still life, bullfighting and mythology. Botero had strong connections to Italy and he is buried in the Tuscan town of Pietrasanta. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

MIRÓ:

IL COSTRUTTORE DI SOGNI

14 SEPT-23 FEB

The Museo Storico della Fanteria showcases works created by Spanish avant-garde artist Joan Miró between 1924 and 1981. Titled Miró - the builder of dreams, the exhibition comprises

around 80 works including paintings, drawings, prints sculptures and ceramics. Most of the exhibited works come from private Italian and French collections and are rarely seen by the public. A seminal figure in 20th-century avant-garde art, Miró’s innovative use of line, organic shapes and colour represented a major contribution to Surrealism. The Museo Storico della Fanteria is located in Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 7. Mon-Fri 09.30-19.30. Sat-Sun 09.30 to 20.30. For information and booking contact prenotazioni@navigaresrl.com.

EMOTION

29 NOV-7 JAN

Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante presents a contemporary art exhibition devoted to the range of emotions that inspire artists as well as the feelings that artworks conjure up in the spectator. Curated by Danilo Eccher, the exhibition features works by Italian and international artists including AES+F, Mat Collishaw, Subodh Gupta, Carsten Höller, Eva Jospin, Kimsooja, Luigi Mainolfi, Masbedo, Annette Messager, Paul Morrison, Luigi Ontani, Tony Oursler, Piero Pizzi Cannella, Laure Prouvost, Pietro Ruffo, Alessandro Sciaraffa, Gregor Schneider, Paolo Scirpa, Nedko Solakov and Adrian Tranquilli. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Pietro Ruffo at Palazzo Esposizioni, Le Monde Avant la Création de l’Homme.

Fernando Botero at Palazzo Bonaparte. The Vatican Bathroom.

CLASSICAL

JADER BIGNAMINI

3 NOV

Jader Bignamini conducts the Orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia in a performance of Shostakovich’s Symphony No. 5.

MAXIM EMELYANYCHEV - LEIF

OVE ANDSNES

7, 8, 9 NOV

Maxim Emelyanychev conducts the Santa Cecilia Orchestra with pianist Leif Ove Andsnes, performing music by Widmann, Beethoven and Haydn.

FIATI DI SANTA CECILIA

13 NOV

The Santa Cecilia Wind Orchestra performs music by Beethoven, Mozart, Ibert, Berio and Gershwin.

SEMYON BYCHKOV

14, 15, 16 NOV

Semyon Bychkov conducts the Orchestra and Choir of Santa Cecilia in a performance of Bach's Mass in B Minor.

opera

IL ROSSO E IL NERO

26 OCT-2 NOV

With choreography by Uwe Scholz and music by Hector Berlioz, this ballet in three acts is conducted by Martin Georgiev and based on and a story taken from Stendhal’s novel The Red and the Black. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

SIMON BOCCANEGRA

27 NOV-5 DEC

Rome’s opera house stages Verdi’s magnificent telling of a humble

RUDOLD BUCHBINDER

21, 23, 24 NOV

Pianist Rudolf Buchbinder presents three of the most significant piano concertos by Mozart - K. 595, K. 466 and K. 467, conducting the Santa Cecilia Orchestra from the piano.

HANDEL RODELINDA

22 NOV

One of Händel’s most important operas, Rodelinda is offered in concert form by the ensemble La Lira d’Orfeo, led by countertenor Raffaele Pe.

DANIEL HARDING - LISA BATIAHVILI

28, 29, 30 NOV

Music director Daniel Harding joins forces with violinist Lisa Batiashvili for Prokofiev’s Violin Concerto No. 2, Debussy’s Prelude to the Afternoon of a Faun and Brahms’ Second Symphony, with the Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia. All concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For details of tickets and performance times see Santa Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.

Semyon Bychkov returns to Santa Cecilia with Bach’s Mass in B Minor.

Teatro dell'Opera di Roma stages Simon Boccanegra.

14th century Genoan who rises to become Doge of the city, conducted by Michele Mariotti and

directed by Richard Jones. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

Festivals

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL

4 SEPT-17 NOV

Rome’s multidisciplinary arts festival offers a cutting-edge programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music, technology and events for kids. Under the title “Open Space”, the 39th edition of the festival features 100 different shows taking place in 20 venues across the city, with more than 700 artists from around the world. Some of the highlights in November include the Groupe Acrobatique of Tangier in a colourful performance of acrobatics, break-dance, taekwondo and freestyle (12-14 Nov); and Christian Fennesz and Alva Noto (17 Nov) who will stage a groundbreaking collaboration in honour of Ryuchi Sakamoto. For full festival details (in English), including programme, venues and tickets, see Romaeuropa website, www.romaeuropa.net.

ROMA JAZZ FESTIVAL 1-23 NOV

Rome’s annual jazz festival, now in its 48th year, offers a month of concerts at the Auditorium Parco della Musica Ennio Morricone, the Casa del Jazz and Monk Club. The 2024 programme features performances by Italian and international jazz acts including Lakecia Benjamin (1 Nov), Nubia Garcia (10 Nov), Bill Evans Vansband Allstars (11 Nov), Famoudou Don Moye (16 Nov), Nikol Bóková Quartet (21 Nov) and Camilla Battaglia (23 Nov). For details see the Roma Jazz Festival website, www.romajazzfestival.it.

FESTIVAL INTERNAZIONALE DI MUSICA E ARTE SACRA 15-19 NOV

The 23rd International Festival of Sacred Music and Art takes place

in Rome and the Vatican this month. A series of concerts will be held in papal basilicas from 15-19 November featuring renowned international orchestras, choirs and soloists performing a repertoire of 18th- and 19th-century sacred music. The festival will also include tributes to composers Giacomo Puccini, on the centenary of his death, and Anton Bruckner, on the bicentenary of his birth. The participating orchestras and choirs include the Concerto Köln, Swiss National Orchestra, Vokalensemble Kölner Dom, St Florianer Sängerknaben, Escolanía del Escorial, IlluminArt Chorus, and conductors Eberhard Metternich, Ralf Weikert and Tomomi Nishimoto. Admission to the concerts is free, subject to availability, and reservations can be made online. For full details see the Fondazione Pro Musica e Arte Sacra website, www.fondazionepromusicaeartesacra.org.

Lakecia Benjamin at Roma Jazz Festival.

CULTURE NEWS

VATICAN RESTORES BALDACHIN

The Vatican unveiled the restored gilded bronze canopy that towers over the high altar of St Peter’s Basilica on 27 October, following a major 10-month restoration. The €700,000 project, the first restoration of the Baldachin in 250 years, was financed by the Order of the Knights of Columbus. Designed by Baroque master Gian Lorenzo Bernini four centuries ago, the monument was commissioned by Pope Urban VIII, with work starting in 1624 and finishing nine years later. The 30-metre high, 63-ton Baldacchino was installed directly under the dome of the basilica to mark the location of Saint Peter’s tomb underneath. In the creation of the Baldachin, Bernini worked alongside his father Pietro and his brother Luigi, and was also assisted by his rival Francesco Borromini. The unveiling of the restored Baldachin comes ahead of the 2025 Jubilee Year when more than 30 million pilgrims and tourists are expected to visit Rome and the Vatican.

ROME HONOURS FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA

Francis Ford Coppola, the celebrated Italian-American director best known for The Godfather trilogy, was honoured at Rome’s legendary Cinecittà film studios. Coppola, 85, received two special tributes: the naming of a street after him and the gift of the honorary key to the Roman studios where, 35 years ago, the fivetime Oscar winner filmed scenes for The Godfather - Part III. “For me, all this is a dream come true”, Coppola said during the ceremony, recalling that as a youth he viewed Cinecittà as “the real Hollywood”. Coppola introduced the Italian premiere of his latest movie Megalopolis in a pre-opening event for the 19th edition of the Rome Film Festival. The director told the Cinecittà audience that he still wanted to make two films: “One small and simple, just for fun, which I

will shoot mostly in Italy, and one big”. Coppola also received the Lupa Capitolina, Rome’s top honour, from the city’s mayor Roberto Gualtieri at city hall.

APOLLO BELVEDERE RESTORED

The Vatican has unveiled the newly restored Apollo Belvedere, a celebrated marble sculpture of the Greek god Apollo dating from the second century, which returns to public display after five years. The two-metre high statue underwent a delicate restoration and cleaning process, after small fractures were noticed in its legs in 2019, with a new carbon fibre pole fixed to the back of its plinth to make it more stable. The €260,000 restoration, funded with the help of the Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums, was coordinated by the Vatican’s department of Greek and Roman Antiquities. The marble masterpiece, believed to be a Roman copy of an original Greek bronze statue, portrays Apollo having just shot an arrow with his bow. The ancient statue was discovered in 1489 on Rome’s Viminal Hill and was brought to the Vatican two decades later by Pope Julius II where it became a treasured centrepiece of the papal collection. The 18th-century German art historian and archaeologist Johan Joachim Winckelmann hailed the Apollo as “the highest ideal of art among the ancient works that have been preserved to us so far.”

Andy Devane

Baldachin in St Peter’s. Photo: Dziewul / Shutterstock.com.

The restored Apollo Belvedere returns to the Vatican Museums.

Francis Ford Coppola receiving the Lupa Capitolina from Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri.

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a deﬁnitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign ﬁlm festivals.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign ﬁlm festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Troisi, Via Girolamo Induno 1, www.cinematroisi.it.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rock pop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Laniﬁcio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

theatreCasa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

theatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

PIZZA MARGHERITA HOW TO MAKE GREAT PIZZA AT HOME

Making your own pizza from scratch is a sure re way to impress and is a fun activity to do with friends and family. This recipe is a simple way to make great pizza at home using a domestic kitchen oven and, while the result may not be exactly like a real Roman pizzeria, it allows you to unleash your creativity and add whatever toppings you choose.

Although the process of making the dough and leaving it to rise takes a while, this can be done in advance, so the actual topping and cooking of the pizza takes a matter of minutes. Cooking the base by itself for a few minutes before turning it over and adding the toppings will ensure a crunchy, non-soggy, crust, as will draining as much liquid as possible out of the mozzarella before using.

The quantities below will make enough pizza for about 4 people, but you can use whatever size and shape of metal baking tin you have at home.

For the base:

500g our 00 1 x 7g sachet of dried yeast

3 pinches of salt

1 pinch of sugar

350ml water

Extra virgin olive oil

For the topping:

4 x 250g balls of mozzarella ( or di latte)

1 large jar of tomato passata

Fresh basil leaves

Sieve the our into a large bowl. Add the yeast, salt and sugar and pour in the water. Mix everything together with a fork, once the dough starts to come together, tip it onto a oured board or work surfaced. Continue to knead with your hands, constantly pushing the dough back onto itself, until you have a soft, elastic consistency. If the dough is too wet, add a little our; if it is too dry add a little more water or a drop of olive oil. In a clean bowl pour in about 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Place the ball of dough into the bowl, cover with plastic cling lm and put the bowl into the oven (turned o ) or a dark cupboard. Leave it to prove for at least 3 hours until the dough has doubled in size.

Once the dough has risen, tip it back onto a oured surface along with the oil. Knead it well until the texture is smooth and soft. Divide the dough into pieces (the size depends on the baking tins you have and how thick you want the base of your pizza) and leave it to rest while you prepare the topping. Turn the oven on to heat to its highest temperature.

Pour the passata into a bowl, add a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt and mix well. Cut the mozzarella into cubes and use your hands to squeeze out as much liquid as possible to ensure that the pizza will not be soggy.

Grease the baking tins with olive oil. Push the dough into the tins using your hands, try not to create any holes.

Put the pizza into the lowest part of the oven and cook for 5-8 minutes then turn the base over in the tin. Spread the passata over the pizza and add some mozzarella and a drizzle of olive oil then place the pizza back into the low shelf of the oven for about 5 more minutes until the edges are crispy and the mozzarella has melted. Add a few fresh basil leaves and serve immediately.

Queen Makeda, Via di S. Saba 11, tel. 065759608.

Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461. Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696.

Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338.

‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326.

Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707.

Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243.

Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199.

Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608.

Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961.

Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971.

Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945.

Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.

Where to brunch in Rome

Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes.

QUEEN MAKEDA GRAND PUB

Each Sunday Queen Makeda offers an international brunch of dishes from the wok, noodles, salads, eggs, homemade tarts, vegetables, baked potatoes, artisan sausages and wurstel. There’s also the option of a British-style Sunday roast lunch, which includes beef, chicken, lamb, pork and Yorkshire puddings. Don’t miss the desserts, the 40 different craft beers available, the juices and the tasty nonalcoholic drinks. On the children’s menu (there’s also a supervised kids’ play area) you’ll find burgers, chips, tomato pasta and hot dogs. Sun 12.30-16.00.

COROMANDEL

Located near Piazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00.

DOLCE

For a New York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side. You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00.

KETUMBAR

Ketumbar’s organic brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly. There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

‘NA COSETTA

In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00.

CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI

If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.

ATLAS COELESTIS

Here you can choose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour. On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30.

PORTO FLUVIALE

This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

ROSTI AL PIGNETO

If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

DOPPIOZERO

Here you can enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.

MISTO

Located in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwiches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun 11.30-15.30.

IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO

Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30.

MAVI

At Mavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different –part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli

Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

Saint-Louis de France (French)

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it

Irish Club of Rome

irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com

Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00

Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church

Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen

(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance

Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org

Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre

St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it

Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

OPERA

OCTOBER 11, 13, 15, 17, 19

BENJAMIN BRITTEN

Peter Grimes

CONDUCTOR MICHELE MARIOTTI

DIRECTOR DEBORAH WARNER

OCTOBER 16, 18, 20, 22, 23

TEATRO NAZIONALE

SILVIA COLASANTI

L’ultimo viaggio di Sindbad

CONDUCTOR ENRICO PAGANO

DIRECTOR LUCA MICHELETTI

BALLET

OCTOBER 26, 27, 29, 30, 31, NOVEMBER 2

HECTOR BERLIOZ

Il rosso e il nero

CONDUCTOR MARTIN GEORGIEV

CHOREOGRAPHER UWE SCHOLZ