Wanted in Rome - December 2024 by Wanted in Rome

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 16, Numero 11 DECEMBER 2024 | € 2,00

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

WHAT'S+ WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

0 0 0 1 1

CONT

4. ROME’S NON-CATHOLIC

CEMETERY SEEKS HELP Andy Devane

6. CHRISTMAS AND NEW

YEAR IN ROME 10. BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN DECEMBER 2024 12. Christmas Masses and religious services in English

MISCELLANY

WHAT'S ON

12. ROME FOR children 14. STREET ART guide 16. MUSEUMS 20. ART GALLERIES 36. CULTURAL VENUES 41. RECIPE 42. puntarella rossa 44. USEFUL NUMBERS

28. EXHIBITIONS 32. CLASSICAL 32. opera 34. CULTURE NEWS

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/11/2024

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 16, Numero 11 DECEMBER 2024 | € 2,00

EDITORIALS

WHAT'S+ WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

Piazza della Minerva - Rome Watercolour Thomas W Schaller

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ENTS 4

ROME’S NON-CATHOLIC CEMETERY SEEKS HELP

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME

OPERA

classical

Heritage

ROME’S NON-CATHOLIC CEMETERY SEEKS HELP ROME LANDMARK SEEKS €300,000 IN ONLINE APPEAL AFTER FALLEN TREE LEADS TO ITS CLOSURE Andy Devane

ome’s Non-Catholic Cemetery has launched an online fundraiser to seek financial assistance after a large pine tree fell inside its walls, damaging several graves. The landmark graveyard is currently closed for safety reasons after the enormous pine fell during the night

between 3 and 4 November. Nobody was injured. The GoFundMe appeal is seeking to raise €300,000 to help with the cost of removing the fallen pine, restoring the tombs and carrying out geological surveys on the hallowed site. The cemetery’s director Yvonne A. Mazurek, who

launched the fundraiser, said the tree in question had been deemed healthy and safe following tensile tests six months ago, and that experts were investigating the cause of its collapse. Trees are considered an “integral and precious part of the cemetery”, the appeal says, and are subject to an-

Rome's Non-Catholic Cemetery is currently closed for safety reasons. Photos Non-Catholic Cemetery.

4 | • Wanted in Rome

The landmark graveyard seeks funds after a large tree collapsed.

nual checks, pruning and treatments to tackle parasites. Located in the shadow of the Pyramid of Cestius in Testaccio district, the secluded cemetery hosts the graves of numerous illustrious figures, notably the English Romantic poets Keats and Shelley. Also known as the Protestant Cemetery, the graveyard has been in continuous use for more than 300 years and is entirely privately managed.

The unexpected collapse of the tree and its associated costs have put the cemetery’s finances under serious pressure, prompting the appeal for help from the public. The work required is extensive and complex – involving restorers, geologists, historians, photographers and tree experts – and it is difficult to estimate when the cemetery will be able to reopen.

The work required is extensive and complex.

“All our efforts are aimed at reopening this beloved place in the shortest time possible” – Mazurek said in the fundraising appeal – “trying to do so in a way that guarantees the best future for both the urban forest and the monuments that it houses and surrounds.” The appeal outlines a preliminary estimate of the expected costs: €75,000 in relation to the removal of the fallen tree and other trees involved in the collapse, as well as pruning and replacing trees; €75,000 for carrying out geological surveys; and €150,000 for the restoration of the damaged tombs. “We therefore invite all those who love this corner of recollection and memory” – the appeal reads – “all those who have found refuge within our walls to help us immediately to deal with this serious situation.” Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 5

Traditions

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME

A QUICK GUIDE TO THE FESTIVE SEASON IN THE ETERNAL CITY

hristmas is a magical time in Rome, particularly for children. Streets in the historic centre twinkle with lights, red carpets are laid outside shopfronts, and the city’s churches come to life with Nativity scenes, some of which feature real, live people.

On this day, according to tradition, Romans decorate their homes for Christmas with seasonal plants such as the poinsettia and butcher’s broom, an evergreen shrub spotted with red berries. The date also signals the official start of the shopping season in Italy.

Christmas in Rome is a less glitzy experience than in North America and northern Europe, revolving more around cultural and religious traditions, family and food.

Pope Francis will mark the Catholic holy day by laying a floral wreath at the statue of the Madonna at Piazza Mignanelli, near the Spanish Steps, at 16.00.

Immacolata

Christmas trees

For many in Rome the festive season begins on 8 December, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, a public holiday in Italy.

The Vatican’s Christmas tree in St Peter’s Square will be illuminated on 7 December, at 18.30,

The Vatican lights up its Christmas tree and Nativity scene on 7 December.

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Traditions alongside a giant Nativity scene, from Italy’s northern Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. The Christmas crib will have a maritime theme and will depict fishermen alongside traditional boats and thatched dwellings together with 3-D renderings of birds. At the time of writing there was no official announcement about Rome’s Christmas tree, which last year moved from Piazza Venezia to Piazza del Popolo, and is usually illuminated on 8 December.

Rome hosts a Christmas market in Piazza Navona.

Christmas carols and concerts

Christmas Eve

The Pontifical Irish College community holds its annual Advent liturgy followed by Christmas carols on 8 December at 18.00.

Most Roman families gather on Christmas Eve to share a substantial fish dinner which, in contrast to the US and northern Europe, is the main family meal. Those planning to dine in Rome restaurants over the festive period are advised to book well in advance due to high demand.

The Vatican’s annual charity concert will take place in the Auditorium Conciliazione on 14 December, featuring Italian and international musicians, while the popular Roma Gospel Festival returns to the Auditorium Parco della Musica during Christmas week. Christmas cribs Although there are Christmas mangers and Nativity scenes in churches throughout the capital, the main draw is 100 Presepi, the international crib exhibition, held under the colonnade of St Peter’s from 8 December until 6 January 2025. Christmas Markets Rome has plenty of Christmas markets over the festive period, the best known of which is the Mercatino della Befana in Piazza Navona, open every day until 6 January.

Religious services Midnight Mass, which rarely occurs at midnight anymore, is held at parish churches across Rome, including the Papal Mass in St Peter’s Basilica at 21.30. The next day, large crowds gather in St Peter’s Square at noon to be blessed by Pope Francis as he delivers his annual Urbi et Orbi message “to the city and the world”. For Christmas religious services in English see our guide on page 12.

Christmas for kids Children enjoy the carousels, ice-skating rinks and fun on offer at Christmas World in Villa Borghese and the Auditorium Parco della Musica, where Santa Claus makes an appearance. There is also a festival of lights at the Botanic Gardens in Trastevere until 6 January.

Rome lights up Via dei Condotti for Christmas. Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 7

Rome will host a New Year parade through the city centre.

New Year’s Eve in Rome Moving on to New Year’s Eve, known as the Festa di S. Silvestro in Italy, the traditional meal consists of cotechino (a product similar to salami), zampone (stuffed pig’s trotter), and lentils which are believed to bring luck for the coming year, all washed down with a glass or two of prosecco or spumante. A well-known but now almost extinct tradition associated with capodanno in southern Italy involves people throwing old objects out the window, symbolising their readiness to welcome in the new year. Public transport The capital’s public transport services usually follow a reduced timetable on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Tiber dive On New Year’s Day one of the city’s most unusual and popular sights takes place at midday on Ponte Cavour. As soon as the cannon fires on the Gianicolo to mark midday, daredevil divers thrill the crowds by making the 17-metre plunge, known as the Tuffo nel Tevere into the icy waters of the Tiber below. New Year’s Day Parade Later in the day, American and Italian high school marching bands will stage a free, 8 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

family-orientated parade in central Rome. The 15th edition of the New Year’s Day event starts in Piazza del Popolo at 15.30, running along Via del Corso, Via Frattina, Piazza di Spagna, Via del Babuino and Via di Ripetta in a colourful extravaganza lasting over two and half hours. Winter sales The post-Christmas clothes sales begin in Rome and the Lazio region on 4 January. La Befana On 6 January, Italians celebrate the religious Feast of the Epiphany, better known by its popular name of La Befana. In the Bible tradition, the feast of the Epiphany is when the three magi arrive in Bethlehem to visit the Christ child. In the popular tradition of the Befana, the story goes that the wise men invited a witch to join them on their journey to bring gifts to baby Jesus. She initially refused, but then tried to follow them. Unable to find Jesus she gave the toys to other children. Traditionally children in Italy hang stockings by windows or fireplaces in anticipation of her visit, receiving sweets if they’ve been good or coal (nowadays usually made of sugar) if they misbehaved. The story of the Befana is re-enacted each year in Piazza Navona and the witch’s departing flight marks the end of the holiday season in Rome.

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Lifestyle

BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN DECEMBER 2024

A QUICK GUIDE TO WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS MONTH

ecember is a busy month in Rome, with a calendar of events revolving around the Christmas season.

The Vatican’s Jubilee Year, an event that occurs every quarter-century, will be launched officially on 20 December when Pope Francis opens the Holy Doors at St Peter’s Basilica. December in Rome kicks off with a Free Museum Sunday, when Italy’s state museums and archaeological sites open their doors for free on the first day of the month, along with city-run museums. Rome lights up for the Christmas season.

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This means that practically all museums in Rome will be free on 1 December – excluding the Vatican Museums – but be warned that landmarks such as Galleria Borghese and the Pantheon need to be booked in advance. The popular ‘Befana’ Christmas market in Piazza Navona is set to be held from 1 December until 6 January 2025. Più libri più liberi, the national fair for small and medium Italian book publishing houses will be held at Rome’s futuristic Nuvola conference centre from 4-8 December, offering more than 600 literary events.

Rome hosts Musei in Musica on 7 December.

ExtraTeatro, a Rome theatre company that produces shows in English for kids and young people, is staging a musical called Cyber Kids at Teatro Belli on 7 December. The English-language production is aimed at high school students, aged 12-18. Musei in Musica returns to the Italian capital on 7 December, with Rome’s city-run museums staying open until 02.00 to host more than 100 concerts and live performances, for a symbolic entry fee of €1. Rome’s Botanic Garden will be illuminated at night over the festive season once again with enchanting tunnels of lights and magical installations. Titled Trame di Luce, the multi-sensory event of light and sound is designed for both adults and children. There is also a Christmas edition of ‘This is Wonderland’, an immersive Instagramfriendly fairytale experience based on Pinocchio, at the waterfall gardens in EUR. Christmas World, hailed as one of the largest Christmas villages in Europe, returns to Villa Borghese every day until 6 January 2025. The Vatican’s Christmas tree and Nativity scene in St Peter’s Square will be illuminated on 7 December. The date for the lighting

up of Rome’s Christmas tree is traditionally on 8 December. The Accademia di Santa Cecilia programme of classical music concerts includes British a cappella vocal ensemble The King’s Singers performing Christmas classics (4 Dec) and Finland’s Dalia Stasevska conducting the Santa Cecilia orchestra and choir as they perform music by Sibelius and Carmina Burana by Carl Orff (12-14 Dec). Rome’s opera house stages Tchaikovsky’s mesmerising ballet The Nutcracker, directed by Andrea Quinn, from 15 until 24 December. Exhibitions in Rome in December include a rarely-seen portrait by Caravaggio at Palazzo Barberini, on public display for the first time; an exhibit dedicated to the legacy of Baroque master Guercino and the noble Ludovisi family in 17th-century Rome; Botero at Palazzo Bonaparte, the largest exhibition in Italy ever dedicated to the Colombian painter. The Roma Gospel Festival returns to Rome for its 28th edition, with acts including the Harlem Gospel Choir (25 Dec) and the Bronx Gospel Choir (31 Dec). For more events and things to do in Rome see the What’s On section of our website. Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 11

Christmas Masses and religious services in English All Saints' Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881. 24 Dec. Crib Service for children 17.00. Mass 23.30. 25 Dec. Holy Communion 10.30.

Rome Baptist Church

S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652. 24 Dec. Worship 10.30. Christmas Eve Service, 17.00. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Service, 10.30.

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 18.30.

St Patrick’s American Community (Roman Catholic)

Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 064203121. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Family Mass 16.30. Concert 19.05. ‘Midnight Mass’ 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Masses 09.00 and 10.30.

St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal Church)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339. 24 Dec. Fourth Sunday of Advent 10.30. Musical Prelude 22.00. First Eucharist of Christmas 22.30. 25 Dec. Second Eucharist of Christmas (English & Italian) 10.30.

S. Isidoro Church (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve 'Midnight Mass' 21.00. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 10.00.

S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121. 24 Dec. Mass at 19.30. 25 Dec. Christmas Mass at 10.00 and 17.30.

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via della Caravita 7. 24 Dec. Christmas Eve Mass 19.00. 25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 11.00.

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St Francis Xavier del Caravita

Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 13

ARTandSEEK English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

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There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 15

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

16 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coﬀee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 17

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED. VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

18 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

DECEMBER 2024 3 DECEMBER

4 DECEMBER

12 / 13 / 14 DECEMBER

piano and voice Michael Feinstein piano Jean-Yves Thibaudet

The King’s Singers

Orchestra e Coro di Voci Bianche dell’Accademia di Santa Cecilia conductor Dalia Stasevska

King’s Christmas

Two Pianos: Who Could Ask for Anything More? Celebrating the music of George Gershwin and his world

Sibelius Four Legends from the Kalevala: selection Finlandia Orff Carmina Burana

18 DECEMBER

19 / 20 / 21 DECEMBER

contralto Anna Caterina Antonacci piano Donald Sulzen

Orchestra e Coro di Voci Bianche dell’Accademia di Santa Cecilia conductor Gustavo Dudamel

Ravel 5 Mélodies populaires grecques Poulenc Le travail du peintre Hahn Venetia Respighi Deità silvane Hahn Etudes latines Poulenc La Dame de Montecarlo

Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker complete ballet - in concert version

AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA ENNIO MORRICONE, ROMA / SANTACECILIA.IT

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Museo Napoleonico

Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 21

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

22 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

24 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di Affogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

Sala 1

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 25

- Since 1946 -

TRANSFORMING THE WORLD THROUGH EDUCATION World Class International Curriculum

Forest School

Leader in Technology Well-being Global Citizenship

Via di Villa Lauchli 180, 00191 Rome Tel: +39 06 362 91012 admissions@marymountrome.com 26 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome www.marymountrome.com

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON Guercino exhibition at Scuderie del Quirinale, see page 28.

Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 27

EXHIBITIONS CARAVAGGIO: THE PORTRAIT UNVEILED 23 NOV-23 FEB

A rarely seen painting by the Italian Baroque genius Caravaggio goes on public display, for the first time, at Rome’s Palazzo Barberini. The painting is a portrait of Monsignor Maffeo Barberini, the future Pope Urban VIII who ruled the Catholic Church and the Papal States from 1623 until his death in 1644. The work dates to the turn of the 17th century and is part of an exhibition curated by Palazzo Barberini director Thomas Clement Salomon and art historian Paola Nicita. The painting, which depicts the cleric and patron of the arts in his early 30s, is believed to have been in the collection of the noble Barberini family for centuries before passing into private hands in the mid 1930s, around the time the estate was dispersed. In 1963 the renowned art critic Roberto Longhi authenticated the painting as the work of Caravaggio who only completed a handful of portaits before his death, aged just 38, in 1610. “It is not a rediscovered painting, it has been known about since the

Marconi exhibition at the Vittoriano and Palazzo Venezia.

1960s, but since then it had only been seen by five or six specialists” - Nicita told news agency ANSA - “Not to mention that portraits of Caravaggio are extremely rare, some have been lost, others have never been traced”. The painting portrays a seated Barberini wearing a biretta and cassock, clutching a folded letter in one hand and pointing with the other, as he glances to his right. The work makes strong use of chiaroscuro, a technique employing dramatic use of light and shadow, for which Caravaggio is famous. “It is the Caravaggio painting that everyone has wanted to see for years” - Salomon said - “It has never been exhibited, lent, or the subject of exhibitions”. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. barberinicorsini.org.

communication. The exhibition, part of Italy’s celebrations to mark the 150th anniversary of Marconi’s birth, takes place at the Vittoriano and Palazzo Venezia. Known as the father of radio, Marconi developed and marketed the first successful long-distance wireless telegraph and in 1901 broadcast the first transatlantic radio signal. The exhibition features hundreds of documents, photos, artefacts and archive film footage, exploring the innovations that brought Marconi to international prominence as well as providing insights into the private life of the inventor from Bologna. For visiting details see website, www.vive.cultura.gov.it.

GUGLIELMO MARCONI: VEDERE L’INVISIBILE

A major exhibition in the Italian capital highlights the magnificent artistic legacy of the Italian Baroque master Guercino and the noble Ludovisi family in 17th-century Rome. The exhibition focuses on the artist Giovanni Francesco Barbieri, better known as Guercino (15911666), and the Ludovisi dynasty,

8 NOV-25 APRIL

Caravaggio at Palazzo Barberini

An exhibition in Rome celebrates the extraordinary legacy of Guglielmo Marconi, the Italian inventor and electrical engineer who pioneered the science of radio

28 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

GUERCINO: THE LUDOVISI ERA IN ROME 31 OCT-26 JAN

personified by Cardinal Ludovico and his uncle Alessandro Ludovisi, Pope Gregory XV. The exhibition examines the brief but significant Ludovisi papacy (1621-1623), a luminous interlude between the great Borghese and Barberini dynasties, when the young Guercino asserted himself in Rome thanks to the patronage of Gregorio XV. The Ludovisi set about filling their new family home, the Casino di Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi, with extraordinary works ranging from antiquity to contemporary art of the time, and commissioned artists including Guido Reni, Domenichino, Carracci, Lanfranco, Pietro da Cortona, Van Dyck, Poussin, Bernini and – the pope’s favourite – Guercino. Organised in collaboration with prestigious institutions such as the Uffizi Galleries, the Museo Nazionale Romano and the Capitoline Museums, the exhibition features 121 works from 68 important museums and collections. The exhibition also offers the chance to visit some rooms of the Casino di Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi (also known as Villa Aurora), including the Sala dell’Aurora with Guercino’s famous fresco of the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora. Tickets for the guided tours will be available on a limited basis and by reservation, with booking linked to the purchase of the ticket for the exhibition at the Scuderie. The visits, all guided by an art historian, will last about half an hour and are scheduled from 9 November on weekends and holidays. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale. it.

PIETRO RUFFO: L’ULTIMO MERAVIGLIOSO MINUTO 29 OCT-16 FEB

Rome’s Palazzo Esposizioni presents an exhibition by contemporary Roman artist Pietro Ruffo. Curated by Sébastien Delot, director of the collection of the Musée National Picasso in Paris, the show is the largest solo exhibition by Ruffo ever held to date by a public institution. The more than 50 works on display will examine the rela-

Pietro Ruffo at Palazzo Esposizioni, Le Monde Avant la Création de l’Homme.

tionship between human beings and the planet, inviting viewers to “consider the wonderful potential of our presence on Earth”. Organisers say the exhibition brings together “works of a different nature that form a single story, a long and complex journey through space and time, which ends with a great tribute to the city of Rome.” Palazzo Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioniroma.it.

over the years. The exhibition also includes works by famed painters including Lavinia Fontana, Artemisia Gentileschi and Giovanna Garzoni as well as lesser-known ones such as Giustiniana Guidotti, Ida Botti or Amalia De Angelis. A significant number of the works

ROMA PITTRICE 25 OCT-23 MARCH

The Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi Museum presents an exhibition dedicated to women artists active in Rome between the 16th and 19th centuries. Titled Roma Pittrice. Artiste al lavoro tra XVI e XIX secolo, the exhibition comprises more than 130 works, many displayed publicly for the first time, by 56 artists. Organisers say the aim of the show is to highlight the paintings and careers of these artists who were often overlooked due to lack of documentation or because their works had been attributed to male painters. The artists whose work is on exhibited include Maria Felice Tibaldi Subleyras, Angelika Kaufmann, Laura Piranesi, Marianna Candidi Dionigi, Louise Seidler and Emma Gaggiotti, whose works were mostly kept in storage

Roma Pittrice at Palazzo Braschi. Beatrice by Virginia Barlocci.

Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 29

on display come from Rome’s city museums, with many other paintings on loan from prestigious collections including the Accademia di San Luca, Accademia di Brera, Uffizi Galleries, Pilotta of Parma, Royal Museums of Turin, National Portrait Gallery in London and the Thorvaldsen Museum in Copenhagen. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, www.museodiroma.it.

BOTERO

17 SEPT-19 JAN

Palazzo Bonaparte hosts largest exhibition in Italy ever dedicated to Colombian artist Fernando Botero. The show charts the more than 60-year career of the artist, famed for his paintings and sculptures of corpulent figures, who died last year aged 91. Curated by Lina Botero, daughter of the artist, and Botero expert Cristina Carrillo de Albornoz, the show comprises more than 120 works including paintings, watercolours, charcoal, sculptures and some pieces never seen by the public. Among the important Botero works never exhibited before include Homage to Mantegna (1958), recently discovered by Lina Botero through auction house Christie’s, and a version of the infanta from Las Meninas by Velázquez which had always hung in the artist’s Parisian studio. The exhibition also includes the artist’s versions of masterpieces from art history including Raphael’s Fornarina, the Montefeltro diptych by Piero della Francesca, portraits by Rubens and van Eyck, up to the

Joan Miró at Museo Storico della Fanteria.

final works that Botero created in 2023 such as a large watercolour of the Odalisque. Organisers say the exhibition features all the classic themes dearest to Botero including his beloved Latin America, the circus, religion, still life, bullfighting and mythology. Botero had strong connections to Italy and he is buried in the Tuscan town of Pietrasanta. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

MIRÓ: IL COSTRUTTORE DI SOGNI 14 SEPT-23 FEB

The Museo Storico della Fanteria showcases works created by Spanish avant-garde artist Joan Miró between 1924 and 1981. Titled Miró - the builder of dreams, the exhibi-

Fernando Botero at Palazzo Bonaparte. The Vatican Bathroom.

30 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

tion comprises around 80 works including paintings, drawings, prints sculptures and ceramics. Most of the exhibited works come from private Italian and French collections and are rarely seen by the public. A seminal figure in 20th-century avant-garde art, Miró’s innovative use of line, organic shapes and colour represented a major contribution to Surrealism. The Museo Storico della Fanteria is located in Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 7. Mon-Fri 09.30-19.30. Sat-Sun 09.30 to 20.30. For information and booking contact prenotazioni@ navigaresrl.com.

EMOTION

29 NOV-7 JAN

Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante presents a contemporary art exhibition devoted to the range of emotions that inspire artists as well as the feelings that artworks conjure up in the spectator. Curated by Danilo Eccher, the exhibition features works by Italian and international artists including AES+F, Mat Collishaw, Subodh Gupta, Carsten Höller, Eva Jospin, Kimsooja, Luigi Mainolfi, Masbedo, Annette Messager, Paul Morrison, Luigi Ontani, Tony Oursler, Piero Pizzi Cannella, Laure Prouvost, Pietro Ruffo, Alessandro Sciaraffa, Gregor Schneider, Paolo Scirpa, Nedko Solakov and Adrian Tranquilli. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

CLASSICAL MICHAEL FEINSTEIN – JEAN-YVES THIBAUDET 3 DEC

“Who could ask for anything more?” Jazz pianist and singer Michael Feinstein joins forces with classical pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet to celebrate the music of Gershwin and the golden era of musicals. 20.30. Sala S. Cecilia. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

THE KING’S SINGERS 4 DEC

British a cappella vocal ensemble The King’s Singers perform Christmas classics. 20.30. Sala Sinopoli. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

DALIA STASEVSKA 12-14 DEC

Finland’s Dalia Stasevska conducts the Orchestra, Choir and Children’s Choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, performing music by Sibelius and Carmina Burana by Carl

Orff, with soprano Giuliana Gianfaldoni, baritone Mattia Olivieri and countertenor Marco Santarelli. 12 Dec 19.30, 13 Dec 20.30, 14 Dec 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

CHILDREN’S CHOIR 15 DEC

The Children’s Choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia stage a Christmas concert. 18.30. Sala Petrassi. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

ANNA CATERINA ANTONACCI 18 DEC

Contralto Anna Caterina Antonacci and pianist Donald Sulzen perform music by Ravel, Hahn, Respighi and Poulenc. 20.30. Sala Sinopoli. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

THE NUTCRACKER 19-21 DEC

Gustavo Dudamel conducts the

The Orchestra and Children’s Choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia.

Orchestra and Children’s Choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia in a concert performance of Tchaikovsky’s Christmas classic The Nutcracker. 19 Dec 19.30, 20 Dec 20.30, 21 Dec 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

CONCERTO DI NATALE 21 DEC

Christmas concert by OrchExtra, Chorus and Banda Cecilia, the initiatives of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia aimed at music lovers and enthusiasts of all ages. 18.30. Sala Petrassi. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. All concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For details of tickets and performance times see Santa Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.

opera SIMON BOCCANEGRA 27 NOV-5 DEC

Rome’s opera house stages Verdi’s magnificent telling of a humble 14th century Genoan who rises to become Doge of the city, conducted by Michele Mariotti and directed by Richard Jones. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

The Nutcracker 15-24 DEC

It wouldn’t be Christmas in Rome without Tchaikovsky’s mesmerising ballet, staged in a production

32 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

The Nutcracker at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

by Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, directed by Andrea Quinn with choreography by Paul Chalmer. Based on E.T.A. Hoffmann’s magical 1816 fairytale, The Nutcracker tells

the story of a little girl who goes to the Land of Sweets on Christmas Eve. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

CULTURE NEWS ITALY ART POLICE SEIZE LOOTED ETRUSCAN TREASURES

Italian art police have seized a significant collection of Etruscan artefacts, worth at least €8 million, that were looted from an ancient burial site in the central Umbria region of Italy. The perfectly preserved items, which date to the third century BC, were recovered thanks to the efforts of the Carabinieri TPC art squad in an investigation that lasted several months. The looted artefacts were found in Città della Pieve, about 150 km north of Rome. The precious items include eight finely decorated urns and two sarcophagi – one of which contains the skeleton of a woman in her 40s – as well as bronze mirrors, a bone comb and balsamarium bottle still containing traces of a perfume used in antiquity. The Etruscan civilisation flourished in central Italy between the eighth and third century BC before being gradually assimilated by the Romans. The police investigation began last April, when TPC officers came across some photographs of Etruscan funerary urns on the illegal art market. Thanks to an accidental discovery by a farmer in Città della Pieve in 2015, officers suspected that the finds could have come from the same area. Their investigation led them to the owner of an earthmoving company and to land adjacent to that of the 2015 discovery. Currently two people face charges in relation to theft and receiving stolen cultural goods, and risk up to 10 years in jail. Photo ©TPC

ROME OPENS NEW MUSEUM

An iconic painting by Marc Chagall has gone on public display in a new Rome museum until 27 January as part of cultural celebrations for the Vatican’s Jubilee Year 2025. The White Crucifixion, painted by the Belorussian-born French painter in 1938, can be admired for free at the new Museo del Corso on the city’s central

The White Crucifixion (detail) by Marc Chagall.

34 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Some of the Etruscan treasures seized by Italian art police in Tuscany.

Via del Corso. The masterpiece, on loan from the Art Institute of Chicago, comes to Rome thanks to a collaboration between the Vatican and Fondazione Roma, the foundation behind the new museum space. Chagall’s painting can be seen daily from 10.00 to 20.00 at the Museo del Corso which unites Palazzo Cipolla with Palazzo Sciarra.

POMPEII CAPS TOURIST NUMBERS

Pompeii seeks to limit crowds.

The Pompeii archaeological park has capped its daily number of visitors at 20,000 in a bid to ease pressure on the ancient Roman site amid a surge of tourists in recent months. The change was introduced on 15 November in parallel with the launch of a new ticketing system which issues tickets with the names of visitors, similar to the system in place at the Colosseum. The park’s director Gabriel Zuchtriegel said that in addition to reducing human pressure on Pompeii’s “unique and fragile” heritage, the move is designed to make the UNESCO site safer for people visiting, “for example in the event of an earthquake”. Zuchtriegel also said that efforts are being made to expand the visitor experience to other areas of Pompeii and to develop other ancient sites in the area, including Boscoreale, Torre Annunziata, Villa dei Misteri, Civita Giuliana and Stabia, with the aim of fostering a slower and more sustainble tourism model. Andy Devane

A rewarding education that prepares students for life. Ages 2 to 18.

Book a School Visit!

06 844 82 650 / 651 www.romeinternationalschool.it Wanted in Rome • December 2024 | 35

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5036 | Oct 2018 • Wanted Rome in Rome | December 2024 •in Wanted

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 0686391361 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, 068553485 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com 068553485 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Intrastevere, Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 066864395,Vicolo www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in 3, Lucina 16/g, tel. Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni tel. 065884230 066861068 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Sacher, Piazza Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Space Moderno, della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111 Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Parco de’ Medici, Space Moderno, Piazza Viale della Salvatore RepubblicaRebec44, tel. chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 06892111

Troisi, ViaParco Girolamo www.cinematroisi.it. Space de’ Induno Medici,1,Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dd p p 38 Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in • December 2024 | 39 51 Rome | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

40 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

By Kate Zagorski

PANGIALLO: ROMAN CHRISTMAS CAKE PANGIALLO HAS BEEN A TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS TREAT IN ROME SINCE ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES

Literally meaning “yellow bread,” pangiallo is a traditional Roman sweet eaten at Christmas. It is made from a mixture of dried and candied fruit, nuts, citrus peel, honey and dark chocolate which are combined and formed into a dome shape. The cake is brushed with a saffron glaze and baked in the oven to create a golden yellow outer crust and a dense, rich, sticky interior. Pangiallo is originally an ancient recipe from the Roman Imperial age when it was made and gifted during the winter solstice to wish for the return of the sun, hence its colour and round shape. Nowadays pangiallo is harder to track down than the more diffused festive treats such as panforte or panpepato, yet it can still be found in some of the artisanal bakeries of the city around the yuletide period. However, preparing pangiallo at home is very simple and will fill your house with a delicious warm aroma. The recipe below is a basic guideline, but you could also add dried figs, pine nuts or spices such as nutmeg, ginger or cinnamon according to your own taste. Once made it keeps well so it makes an excellent homemade Christmas gift for friends and family.

Ingredients PANGIALLO 80g almonds 80g hazelnuts 80g walnuts 40g pistachios 100g sultanas

40g mixed candied fruit 100g honey 100g dark chocolate Grated zest of 1 lemon Grated zest of 1 orange 80g flour 00

FOR THE GLAZE 2 small sachets of saffron (2 x 0.1g bags) 2 tbsp flour 00 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the dark chocolate into a glass bowl over a pan of boiling water and melt until smooth. While the chocolate is melting roughly chop the almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and pistachios and put into a large mixing bowl. Add the grated lemon and orange zest, the sultanas and the candied fruit and combine everything together well using a fork. Add the honey and continue to mix as you gradually pour in the melted chocolate. Lastly add the flour and, once combined, use your hands to push down and form a compact dough. Place the dough on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and use your hands to mould it into a dome shape. To make the golden glaze put 2 tablespoons of flour into a clean bowl, add the olive oil and saffron and mix. Then gradually add cold water, bit by bit, until you have a thick, creamy texture. Brush the glaze over the top of the dome until it is completely covered then bake in the oven at 180°C for 35-40 minutes until the outer crust is firm. Kate Zagorski has lived in Italy since 2000. Married to a food-obsessed Roman chef, she leads food tours and also works as a freelance food and travel writer.

The best wine bars in Rome: ten of our favourites that also serve food Sometimes an excellent wine bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason we have put together a definitive list Brylla – Trieste Brylla is a modern wine bar with a a very smart idea: Coravin. Thanks to an unusual contraption, the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The outcome is extraordinary, you can try a glass of anything on the menu. And that’s hundreds of different grapes, from a more modest wine to a Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass, half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu too (but you could find better). Via Chiana 77, tel. 0685355669. Fafiuché – Monti Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter from life’s chaos. On a backstreet in Monti is the wine bar where you’ll find high quality Piedmont wines and also delicious dishes, such as braised meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accompanied by preserves. If you are lucky you might be able to nab one of the (few) tables outside. Via della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968. Litro – Monteverde Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it: the location is great with a lovely outdoor space. The staff are passionate and attentive. The wine list (all organic) is excellent. The wines are made with the highest quality ingredients, unlike other wines you might find round and about. Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639. Sogno Autarchico – Prati Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particularly nice indoors – the room is crammed with a large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this wine bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at Simposio. You’ll find regulars here spanning all sorts of ages, who hold this bar in high regard. Via Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310. Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo Small and cosy, an oasis in S. Lorenzo, hidden amongst an array of fast food eateries with outdoor seating. Sorì really knows its stuff about wines, and also about cooking. As well as other delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra (Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek. Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681. Remigio Champagne e Vino – Appio Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana and Appia. There’s a wide variety of champagne and sparkling wines available, but there are also

a great number of still wines to choose from. We recommend pairing a glass of wine with the steak tartare, which is one of the best around. All the dishes are excellent, especially the crostini, pastrami, and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime. Via S. Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228. La Barrique – Monti At this very popular bar you can have an enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden tables, gazing at the shelves that show off the many wine bottles. The array of wines is truly excellent, and includes some organic bottles. They also offer wine by the glass, and you can choose between slightly cheaper wines or some rather special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer, but there’s always something tasty. Via del Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953. Il Goccetto – Historic centre An institution, one of the city’s first wine bars, a cult spot for Romans and tourists looking for a touch of the gourmet. They both sit by the bar waiting for an extraordinary platter of meats and cheeses which they wash down with a glass of wine. Cosy and intimate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between a wine bar offering 800 bottles and a Venetian bacaro (the venetian word for wine bar). Truly one of the best wine bars in Rome. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, tel 066864268. Al Vino al Vino – Monti While there might not always be an enthusiastic and jolly atmosphere it’s definitely worth a visit. The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who watches football games on the television while preparing the cheese and meat boards. Unfortunately these are the only things on the menu, other than a very saucy aubergine parmigiana. We recommend taking your glass outside and watching passersby. There is a good selection of wines on offer. Via dei Serpenti 19, tel. 06485803. Trimani Wine Bar – Fiume Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and at this respectable age has certainly become one of Rome’s most classic wine bars. Elegant and a little formal, there’s an intimate atmosphere and an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish, crostino with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci, buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar. Via Cernaia 37, tel. 064469630.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

44 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

46 | December 2024 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355