Wanted in Rome - December 2024 by Wanted in Rome

EDITORIALS

4. ROME’S NON-CATHOLIC CEMETERY SEEKS HELP Andy Devane

6. CHRISTMAS AND NEW

IN ROME 10. BEST THINGS TO

IN ROME IN DECEMBER 2024 12. Christmas Masses and religious services in English

MISCELLANY WHAT'S ON

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini

EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9

PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl

IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari

STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/11/2024

Wanted in Rome advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

6 CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME

ROME’S NON-CATHOLIC CEMETERY SEEKS HELP 28 classical

OPERA

ROME’S NON-CATHOLIC CEMETERY SEEKS HELP

ROME LANDMARK SEEKS €300,000

IN ONLINE APPEAL AFTER FALLEN TREE LEADS TO ITS CLOSURE

Rome’s Non-Catholic Cemetery has launched an online fundraiser to seek financial assistance after a large pine tree fell inside its walls, damaging several graves. The landmark graveyard is currently closed for safety reasons after the enormous pine fell during the night

between 3 and 4 November. Nobody was injured. The GoFundMe appeal is seeking to raise €300,000 to help with the cost of removing the fallen pine, restoring the tombs and carrying out geological surveys on the hallowed site. The cemetery’s director Yvonne A. Mazurek, who

launched the fundraiser, said the tree in question had been deemed healthy and safe following tensile tests six months ago, and that experts were investigating the cause of its collapse. Trees are considered an “integral and precious part of the cemetery”, the appeal says, and are subject to an-

Rome's Non-Catholic Cemetery is currently closed for safety reasons. Photos Non-Catholic Cemetery.

Andy Devane

nual checks, pruning and treatments to tackle parasites. Located in the shadow of the Pyramid of Cestius in Testaccio district, the secluded cemetery hosts the graves of numerous illustrious figures, notably the English Romantic poets Keats and Shelley. Also known as the Protestant Cemetery, the graveyard has been in continuous use for more than 300 years and is entirely privately managed.

The unexpected collapse of the tree and its associated costs have put the cemetery’s finances under serious pressure, prompting the appeal for help from the public.

The work required is extensive and complex – involving restorers, geologists, historians, photographers and tree experts – and it is difficult to estimate when the cemetery will be able to reopen.

“All our efforts are aimed at reopening this beloved place in the shortest time possible” – Mazurek said in the fundraising appeal –“trying to do so in a way that guarantees the best future for both the urban forest and the monuments that it houses and surrounds.” The appeal outlines a preliminary estimate of the expected costs: €75,000 in relation to the removal of the fallen tree and other trees involved in the collapse, as well as pruning and replacing trees; €75,000 for carrying out geological surveys; and €150,000 for the restoration of the damaged tombs.

“We therefore invite all those who love this corner of recollection and memory” – the appeal reads – “all those who have found refuge within our walls to help us immediately to deal with this serious situation.”

The landmark graveyard seeks funds after a large tree collapsed.

The work required is extensive and complex.

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME

A QUICK GUIDE TO THE FESTIVE SEASON IN THE ETERNAL CITY

Christmas is a magical time in Rome, particularly for children. Streets in the historic centre twinkle with lights, red carpets are laid outside shopfronts, and the city’s churches come to life with Nativity scenes, some of which feature real, live people.

Christmas in Rome is a less glitzy experience than in North America and northern Europe, revolving more around cultural and religious traditions, family and food.

Immacolata

For many in Rome the festive season begins on 8 December, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, a public holiday in Italy.

On this day, according to tradition, Romans decorate their homes for Christmas with seasonal plants such as the poinsettia and butcher’s broom, an evergreen shrub spotted with red berries. The date also signals the official start of the shopping season in Italy.

Pope Francis will mark the Catholic holy day by laying a floral wreath at the statue of the Madonna at Piazza Mignanelli, near the Spanish Steps, at 16.00.

Christmas trees

The Vatican’s Christmas tree in St Peter’s Square will be illuminated on 7 December, at 18.30,

The Vatican lights up its Christmas tree and Nativity scene on 7 December.

Traditions

alongside a giant Nativity scene, from Italy’s northern Friuli-Venezia Giulia region.

The Christmas crib will have a maritime theme and will depict fishermen alongside traditional boats and thatched dwellings together with 3-D renderings of birds.

At the time of writing there was no official announcement about Rome’s Christmas tree, which last year moved from Piazza Venezia to Piazza del Popolo, and is usually illuminated on 8 December.

Christmas carols and concerts

The Pontifical Irish College community holds its annual Advent liturgy followed by Christmas carols on 8 December at 18.00.

The Vatican’s annual charity concert will take place in the Auditorium Conciliazione on 14 December, featuring Italian and international musicians, while the popular Roma Gospel Festival returns to the Auditorium Parco della Musica during Christmas week.

Christmas cribs

Although there are Christmas mangers and Nativity scenes in churches throughout the capital, the main draw is 100 Presepi, the international crib exhibition, held under the colonnade of St Peter’s from 8 December until 6 January 2025.

Christmas Markets

Rome has plenty of Christmas markets over the festive period, the best known of which is the Mercatino della Befana in Piazza Navona, open every day until 6 January.

Christmas for kids

Children enjoy the carousels, ice-skating rinks and fun on offer at Christmas World in Villa Borghese and the Auditorium Parco della Musica, where Santa Claus makes an appearance. There is also a festival of lights at the Botanic Gardens in Trastevere until 6 January.

Christmas Eve

Most Roman families gather on Christmas Eve to share a substantial fish dinner which, in contrast to the US and northern Europe, is the main family meal. Those planning to dine in Rome restaurants over the festive period are advised to book well in advance due to high demand.

Religious services

Midnight Mass, which rarely occurs at midnight anymore, is held at parish churches across Rome, including the Papal Mass in St Peter’s Basilica at 21.30. The next day, large crowds gather in St Peter’s Square at noon to be blessed by Pope Francis as he delivers his annual Urbi et Orbi message “to the city and the world”.

For Christmas religious services in English see our guide on page 10.

Rome hosts a Christmas market in Piazza Navona.

Rome lights up Via dei Condotti for Christmas.

New Year’s Eve in Rome

Moving on to New Year’s Eve, known as the Festa di S. Silvestro in Italy, the traditional meal consists of cotechino (a product similar to salami), zampone (stuffed pig’s trotter), and lentils which are believed to bring luck for the coming year, all washed down with a glass or two of prosecco or spumante.

A well-known but now almost extinct tradition associated with capodanno in southern Italy involves people throwing old objects out the window, symbolising their readiness to welcome in the new year.

Public transport

The capital’s public transport services usually follow a reduced timetable on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.

Tiber dive

On New Year’s Day one of the city’s most unusual and popular sights takes place at midday on Ponte Cavour. As soon as the cannon fires on the Gianicolo to mark midday, daredevil divers thrill the crowds by making the 17-metre plunge, known as the Tuffo nel Tevere into the icy waters of the Tiber below.

New Year’s Day Parade

Later in the day, American and Italian high school marching bands will stage a free,

family-orientated parade in central Rome. The 15th edition of the New Year’s Day event starts in Piazza del Popolo at 15.30, running along Via del Corso, Via Frattina, Piazza di Spagna, Via del Babuino and Via di Ripetta in a colourful extravaganza lasting over two and half hours.

Winter sales

The post-Christmas clothes sales begin in Rome and the Lazio region on 4 January.

La Befana

On 6 January, Italians celebrate the religious Feast of the Epiphany, better known by its popular name of La Befana. In the Bible tradition, the feast of the Epiphany is when the three magi arrive in Bethlehem to visit the Christ child. In the popular tradition of the Befana, the story goes that the wise men invited a witch to join them on their journey to bring gifts to baby Jesus. She initially refused, but then tried to follow them. Unable to find Jesus she gave the toys to other children.

Traditionally children in Italy hang stockings by windows or fireplaces in anticipation of her visit, receiving sweets if they’ve been good or coal (nowadays usually made of sugar) if they misbehaved. The story of the Befana is re-enacted each year in Piazza Navona and the witch’s departing flight marks the end of the holiday season in Rome.

Rome will host a New Year parade through the city centre.

BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN DECEMBER 2024

A QUICK GUIDE TO WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS MONTH

December is a busy month in Rome, with a calendar of events revolving around the Christmas season.

The Vatican’s Jubilee Year, an event that occurs every quarter-century, will be launched officially on 20 December when Pope Francis opens the Holy Doors at St Peter’s Basilica.

December in Rome kicks off with a Free Museum Sunday, when Italy’s state museums and archaeological sites open their doors for free on the first day of the month, along with city-run museums.

This means that practically all museums in Rome will be free on 1 December – excluding the Vatican Museums – but be warned that landmarks such as Galleria Borghese and the Pantheon need to be booked in advance.

The popular ‘Befana’ Christmas market in Piazza Navona is set to be held from 1 December until 6 January 2025.

Più libri più liberi, the national fair for small and medium Italian book publishing houses will be held at Rome’s futuristic Nuvola conference centre from 4-8 December, offering more than 600 literary events.

Rome lights up for the Christmas season.

ExtraTeatro, a Rome theatre company that produces shows in English for kids and young people, is staging a musical called Cyber Kids at Teatro Belli on 7 December. The English-language production is aimed at high school students, aged 12-18.

Musei in Musica returns to the Italian capital on 7 December, with Rome’s city-run museums staying open until 02.00 to host more than 100 concerts and live performances, for a symbolic entry fee of €1.

Rome’s Botanic Garden will be illuminated at night over the festive season once again with enchanting tunnels of lights and magical installations. Titled Trame di Luce, the multi-sensory event of light and sound is designed for both adults and children.

There is also a Christmas edition of ‘This is Wonderland’, an immersive Instagramfriendly fairytale experience based on Pinocchio, at the waterfall gardens in EUR.

Christmas World, hailed as one of the largest Christmas villages in Europe, returns to Villa Borghese every day until 6 January 2025.

The Vatican’s Christmas tree and Nativity scene in St Peter’s Square will be illuminated on 7 December. The date for the lighting

up of Rome’s Christmas tree is traditionally on 8 December.

The Accademia di Santa Cecilia programme of classical music concerts includes British a cappella vocal ensemble The King’s Singers performing Christmas classics (4 Dec) and Finland’s Dalia Stasevska conducting the Santa Cecilia orchestra and choir as they perform music by Sibelius and Carmina Burana by Carl Orff (12-14 Dec).

Rome’s opera house stages Tchaikovsky’s mesmerising ballet The Nutcracker, directed by Andrea Quinn, from 15 until 24 December.

Exhibitions in Rome in December include a rarely-seen portrait by Caravaggio at Palazzo Barberini, on public display for the first time; an exhibit dedicated to the legacy of Baroque master Guercino and the noble Ludovisi family in 17th-century Rome; Botero at Palazzo Bonaparte, the largest exhibition in Italy ever dedicated to the Colombian painter.

The Roma Gospel Festival returns to Rome for its 28th edition, with acts including the Harlem Gospel Choir (25 Dec) and the Bronx Gospel Choir (31 Dec).

For more events and things to do in Rome see the What’s On section of our website.

Rome hosts Musei in Musica on 7 December.

Christmas Masses and religious services in English

All Saints' Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881.

24 Dec. Crib Service for children 17.00. Mass 23.30.

25 Dec. Holy Communion 10.30.

Rome Baptist Church

S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652.

24 Dec. Worship 10.30. Christmas Eve Service, 17.00.

25 Dec. Christmas Day Service, 10.30.

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627.

24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 18.30.

St Patrick’s American Community (Roman Catholic)

Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 064203121.

24 Dec. Christmas Eve Family Mass 16.30. Concert 19.05. ‘Midnight Mass’ 19.30.

25 Dec. Christmas Day Masses 09.00 and 10.30.

St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal Church)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339.

24 Dec. Fourth Sunday of Advent 10.30. Musical Prelude 22.00. First Eucharist of Christmas 22.30.

25 Dec. Second Eucharist of Christmas (English & Italian) 10.30.

S. Isidoro Church (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359.

24 Dec. Christmas Eve 'Midnight Mass' 21.00.

25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 10.00.

S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121.

24 Dec. Mass at 19.30.

25 Dec. Christmas Mass at 10.00 and 17.30.

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via della Caravita 7.

24 Dec. Lessons and Carols 19.00 followed by Mass.

25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 11.00.

St Francis Xavier del Caravita

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis

Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland

e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine

is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Rome’s reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals.

from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino

Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell’Architettura, Piazza Mafredo Fanti 47. Marconi

Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.

Marconi

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense’s landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz

This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatting migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense

This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense

Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.

Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Pigneto

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.

Prati

Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle

The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro

Quadraro

Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure.

NidodiVespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.

Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia

Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station.

Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi).

WelcometoRebibbiaby Zerocalcare. Metro B station.

S. Basilio

SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain’s Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

S. Giovanni

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro

Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Testaccio

Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara

Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.

Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.

Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia

Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area’s blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

DECEMBER 2024

3 DECEMBER

piano and voice

Michael Feinstein

piano Jean-Yves Thibaudet

Two Pianos: Who Could Ask for Anything More?

Celebrating the music of George Gershwin and his world

18 DECEMBER

contralto

Anna Caterina Antonacci

piano Donald Sulzen

Ravel 5 Mélodies populaires

grecques

Poulenc Le travail du peintre

Hahn Venetia

Respighi Deità silvane

Hahn Etudes latines

Poulenc La Dame de Montecarlo

4 DECEMBER

The King’s Singers King’s Christmas

12 / 13 / 14 DECEMBER

Orchestra e Coro di Voci

Bianche dell’Accademia di Santa Cecilia

conductor Dalia Stasevska

Sibelius Four Legends from the Kalevala: selection Finlandia Orff Carmina Burana

19 / 20 / 21 DECEMBER

Orchestra e Coro di Voci

Bianche dell’Accademia di Santa Cecilia

conductor Gustavo Dudamel

Tchaikovsky

The Nutcracker complete ballet - in concert version

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Capitoline Museums

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Museo Napoleonico

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Colonna

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Palazzo Merulana

ROME’S

MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Guercino exhibition at Scuderie del Quirinale, see page 28.

EXHIBITIONS

CARAVAGGIO: THE PORTRAIT UNVEILED

23 NOV-23 FEB

A rarely seen painting by the Italian Baroque genius Caravaggio goes on public display, for the first time, at Rome’s Palazzo Barberini. The painting is a portrait of Monsignor Maffeo Barberini, the future Pope Urban VIII who ruled the Catholic Church and the Papal States from 1623 until his death in 1644. The work dates to the turn of the 17th century and is part of an exhibition curated by Palazzo Barberini director Thomas Clement Salomon and art historian Paola Nicita. The painting, which depicts the cleric and patron of the arts in his early 30s, is believed to have been in the collection of the noble Barberini family for centuries before passing into private hands in the mid 1930s, around the time the estate was dispersed. In 1963 the renowned art critic Roberto Longhi authenticated the painting as the work of Caravaggio who only completed a handful of portaits before his death, aged just 38, in 1610. “It is not a rediscovered painting, it has been known about since the

1960s, but since then it had only been seen by five or six specialists” - Nicita told news agency ANSA - “Not to mention that portraits of Caravaggio are extremely rare, some have been lost, others have never been traced”. The painting portrays a seated Barberini wearing a biretta and cassock, clutching a folded letter in one hand and pointing with the other, as he glances to his right. The work makes strong use of chiaroscuro, a technique employing dramatic use of light and shadow, for which Caravaggio is famous. “It is the Caravaggio painting that everyone has wanted to see for years” - Salomon said - “It has never been exhibited, lent, or the subject of exhibitions”. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. barberinicorsini.org.

GUGLIELMO MARCONI: VEDERE L’INVISIBILE

8 NOV-25 APRIL

An exhibition in Rome celebrates the extraordinary legacy of Guglielmo Marconi, the Italian inventor and electrical engineer who pioneered the science of radio

communication. The exhibition, part of Italy’s celebrations to mark the 150th anniversary of Marconi’s birth, takes place at the Vittoriano and Palazzo Venezia. Known as the father of radio, Marconi developed and marketed the first successful long-distance wireless telegraph and in 1901 broadcast the first transatlantic radio signal. The exhibition features hundreds of documents, photos, artefacts and archive film footage, exploring the innovations that brought Marconi to international prominence as well as providing insights into the private life of the inventor from Bologna. For visiting details see website, www.vive.cultura.gov.it.

GUERCINO: THE LUDOVISI ERA IN ROME

31 OCT-26 JAN

A major exhibition in the Italian capital highlights the magnificent artistic legacy of the Italian Baroque master Guercino and the noble Ludovisi family in 17th-century Rome. The exhibition focuses on the artist Giovanni Francesco Barbieri, better known as Guercino (15911666), and the Ludovisi dynasty,

Caravaggio at Palazzo Barberini

Marconi exhibition at the Vittoriano and Palazzo Venezia.

personified by Cardinal Ludovico and his uncle Alessandro Ludovisi, Pope Gregory XV. The exhibition examines the brief but significant Ludovisi papacy (1621-1623), a luminous interlude between the great Borghese and Barberini dynasties, when the young Guercino asserted himself in Rome thanks to the patronage of Gregorio XV. The Ludovisi set about filling their new family home, the Casino di Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi, with extraordinary works ranging from antiquity to contemporary art of the time, and commissioned artists including Guido Reni, Domenichino, Carracci, Lanfranco, Pietro da Cortona, Van Dyck, Poussin, Bernini and – the pope’s favourite –Guercino. Organised in collaboration with prestigious institutions such as the Uffizi Galleries, the Museo Nazionale Romano and the Capitoline Museums, the exhibition features 121 works from 68 important museums and collections. The exhibition also offers the chance to visit some rooms of the Casino di Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi (also known as Villa Aurora), including the Sala dell’Aurora with Guercino’s famous fresco of the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora. Tickets for the guided tours will be available on a limited basis and by reservation, with booking linked to the purchase of the ticket for the exhibition at the Scuderie. The visits, all guided by an art historian, will last about half an hour and are scheduled from 9 November on weekends and holidays. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale. it.

PIETRO RUFFO: L’ULTIMO

MERAVIGLIOSO MINUTO

29 OCT-16 FEB

Rome’s Palazzo Esposizioni presents an exhibition by contemporary Roman artist Pietro Ruffo. Curated by Sébastien Delot, director of the collection of the Musée National Picasso in Paris, the show is the largest solo exhibition by Ruffo ever held to date by a public institution. The more than 50 works on display will examine the rela-

tionship between human beings and the planet, inviting viewers to “consider the wonderful potential of our presence on Earth”. Organisers say the exhibition brings together “works of a different nature that form a single story, a long and complex journey through space and time, which ends with a great tribute to the city of Rome.” Palazzo Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioniroma.it.

ROMA PITTRICE

25 OCT-23 MARCH

The Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi Museum presents an exhibition dedicated to women artists active in Rome between the 16th and 19th centuries. Titled Roma Pittrice. Artiste al lavoro tra XVI e XIX secolo, the exhibition comprises more than 130 works, many displayed publicly for the first time, by 56 artists. Organisers say the aim of the show is to highlight the paintings and careers of these artists who were often overlooked due to lack of documentation or because their works had been attributed to male painters. The artists whose work is on exhibited include Maria Felice Tibaldi Subleyras, Angelika Kaufmann, Laura Piranesi, Marianna Candidi Dionigi, Louise Seidler and Emma Gaggiotti, whose works were mostly kept in storage

over the years. The exhibition also includes works by famed painters including Lavinia Fontana, Artemisia Gentileschi and Giovanna Garzoni as well as lesser-known ones such as Giustiniana Guidotti, Ida Botti or Amalia De Angelis. A significant number of the works

Roma Pittrice at Palazzo Braschi. Beatrice by Virginia Barlocci.

Pietro Ruffo at Palazzo Esposizioni, Le Monde Avant la Création de l’Homme.

on display come from Rome’s city museums, with many other paintings on loan from prestigious collections including the Accademia di San Luca, Accademia di Brera, Uffizi Galleries, Pilotta of Parma, Royal Museums of Turin, National Portrait Gallery in London and the Thorvaldsen Museum in Copenhagen. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, www.museodiroma.it.

BOTERO

17 SEPT-19 JAN

Palazzo Bonaparte hosts largest exhibition in Italy ever dedicated to Colombian artist Fernando Botero. The show charts the more than 60-year career of the artist, famed for his paintings and sculptures of corpulent figures, who died last year aged 91. Curated by Lina Botero, daughter of the artist, and Botero expert Cristina Carrillo de Albornoz, the show comprises more than 120 works including paintings, watercolours, charcoal, sculptures and some pieces never seen by the public. Among the important Botero works never exhibited before include Homage to Mantegna (1958), recently discovered by Lina Botero through auction house Christie’s, and a version of the infanta from Las Meninas by Velázquez which had always hung in the artist’s Parisian studio. The exhibition also includes the artist’s versions of masterpieces from art history including Raphael’s Fornarina, the Montefeltro diptych by Piero della Francesca, portraits by Rubens and van Eyck, up to the

final works that Botero created in 2023 such as a large watercolour of the Odalisque. Organisers say the exhibition features all the classic themes dearest to Botero including his beloved Latin America, the circus, religion, still life, bullfighting and mythology. Botero had strong connections to Italy and he is buried in the Tuscan town of Pietrasanta. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

MIRÓ: IL COSTRUTTORE DI SOGNI

14 SEPT-23 FEB

The Museo Storico della Fanteria showcases works created by Spanish avant-garde artist Joan Miró between 1924 and 1981. Titled Miró - the builder of dreams, the exhibi-

tion comprises around 80 works including paintings, drawings, prints sculptures and ceramics. Most of the exhibited works come from private Italian and French collections and are rarely seen by the public. A seminal figure in 20th-century avant-garde art, Miró’s innovative use of line, organic shapes and colour represented a major contribution to Surrealism. The Museo Storico della Fanteria is located in Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 7. Mon-Fri 09.30-19.30. Sat-Sun 09.30 to 20.30. For information and booking contact prenotazioni@ navigaresrl.com.

EMOTION

29 NOV-7 JAN

Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante presents a contemporary art exhibition devoted to the range of emotions that inspire artists as well as the feelings that artworks conjure up in the spectator. Curated by Danilo Eccher, the exhibition features works by Italian and international artists including AES+F, Mat Collishaw, Subodh Gupta, Carsten Höller, Eva Jospin, Kimsooja, Luigi Mainolfi, Masbedo, Annette Messager, Paul Morrison, Luigi Ontani, Tony Oursler, Piero Pizzi Cannella, Laure Prouvost, Pietro Ruffo, Alessandro Sciaraffa, Gregor Schneider, Paolo Scirpa, Nedko Solakov and Adrian Tranquilli. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Joan Miró at Museo Storico della Fanteria.

Fernando Botero at Palazzo Bonaparte. The Vatican Bathroom.

CLASSICAL

MICHAEL FEINSTEIN – JEAN-YVES THIBAUDET

3 DEC

“Who could ask for anything more?”

Jazz pianist and singer Michael Feinstein joins forces with classical pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet to celebrate the music of Gershwin and the golden era of musicals. 20.30. Sala S. Cecilia. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

THE KING’S SINGERS

4 DEC

British a cappella vocal ensemble The King’s Singers perform Christmas classics. 20.30. Sala Sinopoli. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

DALIA STASEVSKA

12-14 DEC

Finland’s Dalia Stasevska conducts the Orchestra, Choir and Children’s Choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, performing music by Sibelius and Carmina Burana by Carl

opera

SIMON BOCCANEGRA

27 NOV-5 DEC

Rome’s opera house stages Verdi’s magnificent telling of a humble 14th century Genoan who rises to become Doge of the city, conducted by Michele Mariotti and directed by Richard Jones. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

The Nutcracker 15-24 DEC

It wouldn’t be Christmas in Rome without Tchaikovsky’s mesmerising ballet, staged in a production

Orff, with soprano Giuliana Gianfaldoni, baritone Mattia Olivieri and countertenor Marco Santarelli. 12 Dec 19.30, 13 Dec 20.30, 14 Dec 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

CHILDREN’S CHOIR

15 DEC

The Children’s Choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia stage a Christmas concert. 18.30. Sala Petrassi. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

ANNA CATERINA ANTONACCI

18 DEC

Contralto Anna Caterina Antonacci and pianist Donald Sulzen perform music by Ravel, Hahn, Respighi and Poulenc. 20.30. Sala Sinopoli. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

THE NUTCRACKER

19-21 DEC

Gustavo Dudamel conducts the

Orchestra and Children’s Choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia in a concert performance of Tchaikovsky’s Christmas classic The Nutcracker. 19 Dec 19.30, 20 Dec 20.30, 21 Dec 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

CONCERTO DI NATALE 21

DEC

Christmas concert by OrchExtra, Chorus and Banda Cecilia, the initiatives of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia aimed at music lovers and enthusiasts of all ages. 18.30. Sala Petrassi. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

All concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For details of tickets and performance times see Santa Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.

by Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, directed by Andrea Quinn with choreography by Paul Chalmer. Based on E.T.A. Hoffmann’s magical 1816 fairytale, The Nutcracker tells

the story of a little girl who goes to the Land of Sweets on Christmas Eve. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

The Orchestra and Children’s Choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia.

The Nutcracker at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

CULTURE NEWS

ITALY ART POLICE SEIZE LOOTED ETRUSCAN TREASURES

Italian art police have seized a significant collection of Etruscan artefacts, worth at least €8 million, that were looted from an ancient burial site in the central Umbria region of Italy. The perfectly preserved items, which date to the third century BC, were recovered thanks to the efforts of the Carabinieri TPC art squad in an investigation that lasted several months. The looted artefacts were found in Città della Pieve, about 150 km north of Rome.

The precious items include eight finely decorated urns and two sarcophagi – one of which contains the skeleton of a woman in her 40s – as well as bronze mirrors, a bone comb and balsamarium bottle still containing traces of a perfume used in antiquity. The Etruscan civilisation flourished in central Italy between the eighth and third century BC before being gradually assimilated by the Romans. The police investigation began last April, when TPC officers came across some photographs of Etruscan funerary urns on the illegal art market. Thanks to an accidental discovery by a farmer in Città della Pieve in 2015, officers suspected that the finds could have come from the same area. Their investigation led them to the owner of an earthmoving company and to land adjacent to that of the 2015 discovery. Currently two people face charges in relation to theft and receiving stolen cultural goods, and risk up to 10 years in jail. Photo ©TPC

ROME OPENS NEW MUSEUM

An iconic painting by Marc Chagall has gone on public display in a new Rome museum until 27 January as part of cultural celebrations for the Vatican’s Jubilee Year 2025. The White Crucifixion, painted by the Belorussian-born French painter in 1938, can be admired for free at the new Museo del Corso on the city’s central

Via del Corso. The masterpiece, on loan from the Art Institute of Chicago, comes to Rome thanks to a collaboration between the Vatican and Fondazione Roma, the foundation behind the new museum space. Chagall’s painting can be seen daily from 10.00 to 20.00 at the Museo del Corso which unites Palazzo Cipolla with Palazzo Sciarra.

POMPEII CAPS TOURIST NUMBERS

The Pompeii archaeological park has capped its daily number of visitors at 20,000 in a bid to ease pressure on the ancient Roman site amid a surge of tourists in recent months. The change was introduced on 15 November in parallel with the launch of a new ticketing system which issues tickets with the names of visitors, similar to the system in place at the Colosseum. The park’s director Gabriel Zuchtriegel said that in addition to reducing human pressure on Pompeii’s “unique and fragile” heritage, the move is designed to make the UNESCO site safer for people visiting, “for example in the event of an earthquake”. Zuchtriegel also said that efforts are being made to expand the visitor experience to other areas of Pompeii and to develop other ancient sites in the area, including Boscoreale, Torre Annunziata, Villa dei Misteri, Civita Giuliana and Stabia, with the aim of fostering a slower and more sustainble tourism model.

Andy Devane

Some of the Etruscan treasures seized by Italian art police in Tuscany.

Pompeii seeks to limit crowds.

The White Crucifixion (detail) by Marc Chagall.

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a deﬁnitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign ﬁlm festivals.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign ﬁlm festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Troisi, Via Girolamo Induno 1, www.cinematroisi.it.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rock pop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Laniﬁcio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

theatreCasa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

theatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

By Kate Zagorski

PANGIALLO: ROMAN CHRISTMAS CAKE

PANGIALLO HAS BEEN A TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS TREAT IN ROME SINCE ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES

Literally meaning “yellow bread,” pangiallo is a traditional Roman sweet eaten at Christmas.

It is made from a mixture of dried and candied fruit, nuts, citrus peel, honey and dark chocolate which are combined and formed into a dome shape. The cake is brushed with a sa ron glaze and baked in the oven to create a golden yellow outer crust and a dense, rich, sticky interior.

Pangiallo is originally an ancient recipe from the Roman Imperial age when it was made and gifted during the winter solstice to wish for the return of the sun, hence its colour and round shape.

Nowadays pangiallo is harder to track down than the more di used festive treats such as panforte or panpepato, yet it can still be found in some of the artisanal bakeries of the city around the yuletide period.

However, preparing pangiallo at home is very simple and will ll your house with a delicious warm aroma. The recipe below is a basic guideline, but you could also add dried gs, pine nuts or spices such as nutmeg, ginger or cinnamon according to your own taste. Once made it keeps well so it makes an excellent homemade Christmas gift for friends and family.

Ingredients

PANGIALLO

80g almonds

80g hazelnuts

80g walnuts

40g pistachios

100g sultanas

FOR THE GLAZE

40g mixed candied fruit

100g honey

100g dark chocolate

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Grated zest of 1 orange

80g our 00

2 small sachets of sa ron (2 x 0.1g bags)

2 tbsp our 00

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the dark chocolate into a glass bowl over a pan of boiling water and melt until smooth. While the chocolate is melting roughly chop the almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and pistachios and put into a large mixing bowl. Add the grated lemon and orange zest, the sultanas and the candied fruit and combine everything together well using a fork. Add the honey and continue to mix as you gradually pour in the melted chocolate. Lastly add the our and, once combined, use your hands to push down and form a compact dough.

Place the dough on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and use your hands to mould it into a dome shape. To make the golden glaze put 2 tablespoons of our into a clean bowl, add the olive oil and sa ron and mix. Then gradually add cold water, bit by bit, until you have a thick, creamy texture. Brush the glaze over the top of the dome until it is completely covered then bake in the oven at 180°C for 35-40 minutes until the outer crust is rm.

Kate Zagorski has lived in Italy since 2000. Married to a food-obsessed Roman chef, she leads food tours and also works as a freelance food and travel writer.

The best wine bars in Rome: ten of our favourites that also serve

food

Sometimes an excellent wine bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason we have put together a definitive list

Brylla – Trieste

Brylla is a modern wine bar with a a very smart idea: Coravin. Thanks to an unusual contraption, the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The outcome is extraordinary, you can try a glass of anything on the menu. And that’s hundreds of different grapes, from a more modest wine to a Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass, half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu too (but you could find better). Via Chiana 77, tel. 0685355669.

Fafiuché – Monti

Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter from life’s chaos. On a backstreet in Monti is the wine bar where you’ll find high quality Piedmont wines and also delicious dishes, such as braised meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accompanied by preserves. If you are lucky you might be able to nab one of the (few) tables outside. Via della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968.

Litro – Monteverde Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it: the location is great with a lovely outdoor space. The staff are passionate and attentive. The wine list (all organic) is excellent. The wines are made with the highest quality ingredients, unlike other wines you might find round and about. Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639.

Sogno Autarchico – Prati

Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particularly nice indoors – the room is crammed with a large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this wine bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at Simposio. You’ll find regulars here spanning all sorts of ages, who hold this bar in high regard. Via Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310.

Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo

Small and cosy, an oasis in S. Lorenzo, hidden amongst an array of fast food eateries with outdoor seating. Sorì really knows its stuff about wines, and also about cooking. As well as other delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra (Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek. Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681.

Remigio Champagne e Vino – Appio

Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana and Appia. There’s a wide variety of champagne and sparkling wines available, but there are also

a great number of still wines to choose from. We recommend pairing a glass of wine with the steak tartare, which is one of the best around. All the dishes are excellent, especially the crostini, pastrami, and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime. Via S. Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228.

La Barrique – Monti

At this very popular bar you can have an enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden tables, gazing at the shelves that show off the many wine bottles. The array of wines is truly excellent, and includes some organic bottles. They also offer wine by the glass, and you can choose between slightly cheaper wines or some rather special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer, but there’s always something tasty. Via del Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953.

Il Goccetto – Historic centre

An institution, one of the city’s first wine bars, a cult spot for Romans and tourists looking for a touch of the gourmet. They both sit by the bar waiting for an extraordinary platter of meats and cheeses which they wash down with a glass of wine. Cosy and intimate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between a wine bar offering 800 bottles and a Venetian bacaro (the venetian word for wine bar). Truly one of the best wine bars in Rome. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, tel 066864268.

Al Vino al Vino – Monti

While there might not always be an enthusiastic and jolly atmosphere it’s definitely worth a visit. The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who watches football games on the television while preparing the cheese and meat boards. Unfortunately these are the only things on the menu, other than a very saucy aubergine parmigiana. We recommend taking your glass outside and watching passersby. There is a good selection of wines on offer. Via dei Serpenti 19, tel. 06485803.

Trimani Wine Bar – Fiume

Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and at this respectable age has certainly become one of Rome’s most classic wine bars. Elegant and a little formal, there’s an intimate atmosphere and an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish, crostino with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci, buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar. Via Cernaia 37, tel. 064469630.

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli

Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

Saint-Louis de France (French)

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it

Irish Club of Rome

irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com

Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00

Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church

Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen

(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance

Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org

Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre

St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it

Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355