Wanted in Rome - July and August 2024 by Wanted in Rome

EDITORIALS

MISCELLANY

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini

EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9

PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl

IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari

STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/06/2024

American Bookstore, Via della Vite 27 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49 Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

ABANDONING EVERYTHING FOR ROME: ONE EXPAT’S JOURNEY

BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN JULY 2024 26 EXHIBITIONS

28 FESTIVALS

ABANDONING EVERYTHING FOR ROME: ONE EXPAT’S JOURNEY

AN AMERICAN LOOKS BACK ON HOW AND WHY HE ENDED UP IN ROME

I’m beginning to lose track of years. I’ve accumulated too many. Or so that is what I am told – an aspect that some point to as reason for me to abandon my thoughts of expatriatism and remain buoyant atop “successes” in my home country, the U-Sof A. In other words: they are saying I’m too old to start over. Maybe I should accept the comfort of what I have already worked

for. “Look at what you’ve built!” they say. “But look at you, on the cover of the New York Times food section!” they say. “Midlife crisis,” they whisper, out of range.

My wife and I do not receive the remotest audible reply from the Romans we speak to. Upon discovering our decision to shift from New York City, to “dysfunctional” Rome, a city

Scott Cameron

that completely rests the totality of its economy on the consumption of crumbling remnants –ticket sales to tourists marveling over a very dead empire – their crossed fingers materialize as lean-to support beams and temporary chain-link fences, items that become nearpermanent installations as they are shuffled into a strangling bureaucracy me and my wife hadn’t quite yet felt the grip of. They cross fingers and hope that the winds don’t shift, or tunnel digging for the still-incomplete metro C-line does not disturb those remnants on the surface. No, my wife and I are still giddy over the incomparable glow that graces every sun-littered evening in this enigma of a city. Just like those eternal sunsets, it is an awe we cannot see ever disappearing.

We receive no words at all from the Romani –only a gesture: two hands, fingertips pressed together, pointing upwards and shaking outward in abbreviated movements. In one simple gesture, they speak to us – lifted against an invisible weight that’s turned every bit of excitement once plastered across their curious faces, expecting our response to be something of a romantic getaway rather than a permanent stay, it turns those curious, smiling faces towards a melancholic repose that typically only arrests such upturned expressions with an announcement of something as heavy as death. It’s a loose translation, of course, but it is something like: “Come on. You’re not that f_____g dumb?”

The disappointment is too clear.

“It” is always somewhere you are not. “It” –the thing you cannot define that is missing; that awkwardly absent shape in a section just off-center, drawing every bit of focus, a jagged abyss in your little life puzzle. This sense of “incompletion,” is programmed. America has sold itself as the world’s top commodity. Buy in soon. Buy now. We the People, bootstraps and all, have the best opportunities, the richest land, and it’s all for sale. Get it while supplies last! And the world is buying in.

It is quite a privilege to have US citizenship (for the time being). Our passports are

accepted all over the world. We can petition our governing constituents. We have a (seemingly) healthy job market. We have choice. These are tempting characteristics to those looking in on the American Dream. We also have more handguns than citizens. We have as many annual mass shootings as weeks in a year. As a country built on the merging of many cultures, we have an alarming amount of hypocritical, open racism. America has an exhaustive, exploitative work culture. We have more adulterated foods than any other country, and a 200% mark-up on healthy options. And holy Jesus on a stick, it is loud. But it is home.

In October of 2021, focus forcefully shifted due to the Pandemic, I started looking at the possibility of nursing an old dream. As a descendent of Sicilian ancestors, I am within the limits for citizenship by blood. My Great Grandfather was born in a small fishing village east of Palermo. In my teens I searched for routes back, but quickly learned that citizenship by blood was no longer an option. Italy had created some theoretical umbilical cord to my last ancestor, and because he chose American citizenship before my grandfather was born, his descendants had been snipped and cauterized – disowned.

I would dig back in every couple of years. Had some regulation eased? The answer, unfortunately, was always “no,” until the pandemic, when everything I had built towards my American Dream was stripped of any meaning. I began the search again but

Travel

was still in the camp of any general schmo – a ten-year journey for citizenship if I could even figure out how to stay there long enough to qualify.

But the reinvigorated search was instigated by the discovery of a full ride back to college, and if a university abroad was accredited in the US, it qualified for the same program. The major positive with Italy, is they tally your residence while in college towards your permanent residency. Disheartened by the lost opportunity for citizenship by descent, we were reinvigorated by this jump start towards, at minimum, permanent residency.

My situation was complicated by a relationship. There was a very particular process to get my partner into Italy under my visa. We had to be married, have our certified marriage certificate…certified and translated, fly on the same flight, prove she had housing, financial support, and register her within eight days of arrival. The whole process was a roll of the dice. We were giving up our apartment, and selling anything that wasn’t nailed down “for a song” to move across the ocean on a dream.

Fast forward to present day, and we still don’t know if we’ll be able to stay. Italy is a quagmire. And it is hard to make the argument for staying. The job market is not competitive. This alone sends 53% of local graduates packing every year. Also, as Americans, we potentially must pay taxes in both countries and could be restricted from US retirement benefits.

So why would I want to remain in Italy? Broadly, I would rather have no money and be at ease, than wealthy and watching over my shoulder. There is not a constant ego battle in Italy. The general demeanor of Italians is kind. Sometimes, maybe quite often, they are very much in their own little bubble, but not aggressive, not insecure in their standing. Crime is petty, rather than violent. Travel is easy, inexpensive, and that applies to all the cultures in nearby countries. More specifically,

it is in my genes – remnants of which were at every family gathering as I mingled with the last generation connected to this land.

Having the student visa has allowed me time to adjust to the country and its language. Getting a feel for aspects that may or may not make you want to smash your head into a wall, are nothing but positives. There’s also a tale of one visa lurking in the shadows, only available to those foreign students emerging from their studies, that buys up to 12 months to “find work” after graduating. I can’t find any information currently, but I have been told in strong confidence that this unicorn exists.

Fortunately, if I want to work, I have a job, but the more tempting prospect is Freelance, under the three-tiered Lavoro Autonomia Visa. This would allow me to develop any sort of contract work I desire and maintain ties to the US…potentially. We shall see.

Italy, the home of democracy, is an old place that has gone through many ups and downs only to essentially find itself back at the beginning a mere 163 years ago. I see it as a place of opportunity, with a young heart and a growing mix of cultures. There is much that needs to change but tell me a place, or a person, that doesn’t. It is a flawed structure, like a marble slab, littered with chisel marks that seemingly have no intention or direction, yet add character, lend to the form, to the beauty still being discovered in the larger structure. Italy is also becoming a home.

BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN JULY 2024

A LOCAL’S GUIDE TO THE BEST EVENTS AND THINGS TO DO IN JULY

July in Rome sees the city’s outdoor festivals in full swing, with a packed programme of opera, cinema and concerts under the stars, before things quieten down in August. Here are some tips for the best things to do in Rome in July 2024.

Open-air cinema

Rome offers a range of outdoor film festivals this summer. One of the most spectacular venues is courtesy of the Roma Cinema Arena at the Parco degli Acquedotti, from 4-25 July. The Cinema in Piazza festival in Trastevere and two other locations shows films in their original language versions with special

guests from the world of cinema, until 14 July. Other summer film festivals include Notti di cinema in Piazza Vittorio, Arena Garbatella and Cinevillage Monteverde, with outdoor screenings also at Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese.

Concerts

Rome serves up an eclectic selection of rock, pop, jazz and classical concerts in July. The city has two main live music festivals - Roma Summer Fest and Rock in Roma - with smaller music festivals at Villa Ada and Ostia Antica. Jazz fans can enjoy outdoor performances at Casa del Jazz, as well

Ostia Antica hosts a series of concerts this summer.

Open-air literature festival on the Palatine Hill.

as nightly jazz and swing concerts at Villa Celimontana. The Live @ Colosseo Festival offers open-air jazz and blues concerts with panoramic views of the Colosseum. Classical music concerts take place in Rome’s Botanic Gardens until 25 July and the Concerti del Tempietto concerts at the Theatre of Marcellus throughout the summer.

Opera

The 2024 edition of Rome’s summer opera festival at the Baths of Caracalla pays tribute to Puccini on the centenary of his death. Highlights include Tosca (5 July-9 Aug) and Turandot (16 July-10 Aug) and a celebration of George Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue by Wayne Marshall (30 July). In addition to opera, the Caracalla Festival programme includes symphonic music, dance, theatre, cinema and pop concerts.

Videocittà

An annual audiovisual and digital art festival returns to the Gazometro in Ostiense from 5 to 7 July. Videocittà comprises three days of video art, talks, live music, dj sets, videomapping and performances by leading audiovisual artists.

Literature

An international literature festival takes place over five evenings in July in the spectacular setting of the Palatine Hill. This year’s guests include award-winning writers

Alicia Giménez Bartlett, Paul Lynch and Peter Cameron who will read from texts written specially for the occasion. Events are free of charge, subject to availability, with tickets distributed on the night from 20.00.

Museums

Rome’s national and city-run museums open their doors free of charge on Sunday 7 July.

Festa de’ Noantri

Festa de’ Noantri, a centuries-old religious procession, sees a bejewelled and elaborately-dressed statue of the Madonna paraded through the crowded cobbled streets of Trastevere on 20 July, before returning by boat along the river Tiber nine days later.

For more events see our What’s On in Rome guide while for information about the capital’s Estate Roma programme see the city website, www.estateromana.com.

Jazz against a backdrop of the Colosseum.

TOP 10 Beaches

BEACHES NEAR ROME

For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, o ers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We also highlight the beaches that have been awarded Bandiera Blu (Blue Flag) status in 2024 for meeting the international quality standards for cleanliness.

S. MARINELLA

The northern-most beach on our list o ers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

S. SEVERA

Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE

A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to ock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

OSTIA/CANCELLI

Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli o er free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get o at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO

These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping rst at Anzio ( Blue Flag 2024) and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

SABAUDIA

Famous for its beauty and spaciousness. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussoli ni-era architecture. Blue Flag 2024.

S. FELICE CIRCEO

Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it de nitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get o at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach. Blue Flag 2024.

TERRACINA

Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get o at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families. Blue Flag 2024.

SPERLONGA

The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get o at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket. Blue Flag

GAETA

This area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get o at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it. Blue Flag 2024.

Sabaudia S. Marinella

Come

TOP 10

OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME

1,700+ students from 75+ countries

18:1 student professor ratio

Networking and Career Opportunities

Merit and Need-Based Scholarships

BUSINESS AND ECONOMICS

Business Administration

Economics and Finance

International Business

Marketing

POLITICAL AND SOCIAL SCIENCES

Communications International Affairs

Political Science

Psychological Science

HUMANITIES

Art History

Classical Studies

English Literature History

Humanistic Studies

Italian Studies

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis

Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland

e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine

is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Rome’s reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals.

from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino

Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell’Architettura, Piazza Mafredo Fanti 47. Marconi

Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.

Marconi

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense’s landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz

This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatting migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense

This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense

Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.

Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Pigneto

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.

Prati

Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle

The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro

Quadraro

Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure.

NidodiVespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.

Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia

Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station.

Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi).

WelcometoRebibbiaby Zerocalcare. Metro B station.

S. Basilio

SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain’s Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

S. Giovanni

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro

Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Testaccio

Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara

Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.

Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.

Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia

Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area’s blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Capitoline Museums

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Museo Napoleonico

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Colonna

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Palazzo Merulana

ROME’S

MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

WHAT’S ON

EXHIBITIONS

MARIO TESTINO: A BEAUTIFUL WORLD

25 MAY-25 AUG

Palazzo Bonaparte premieres a new exhibition project by Mario Testino, one of the most celebrated contemporary fashion photographers in the world. Testino is famed for his innovate shots in leading fashion publications of celebrities including Kate Moss, Madonna, Naomi Campbell and Princess Diana. However over the past seven years Testino has turned his lense to new horizons, far away from the fashion scene, exploring and documenting cultural heritage in more than 30 countries around the world. The result is around 70 large-format photographs presented together in the Rome exhibition for the first time. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

TEATRO. AUTORI, ATTORI E PUBBLICO

21 MAY-3 NOV

The Ara Pacis Museum hosts an exhibition dedicated to the world of theatre in ancient Roman times, focusing on theatrical performances, masks and the lives of actors. The exhibition comprises 240 artefacts including ancient terracotta masks, statuettes of actors, dancers and jugglers, and musical instruments such as tibiae, lyres and crotales. The show also uses immersive multimedia technology to take visitors backstage to discover the Roman theatre experience behind the curtains. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.

DETERMINED WOMEN

17 MAY-6 OCT

The Museo di Roma in Trastevere hosts the first Italian retrospective of the celebrated Cameroonian photographer Angèle Etoundi Essamba whose work focuses on the identity of African women. The Rome retrospective presents a series of recent

works by the Amsterdam-based photographer who is best known for her humanistic photography, much of it in black and white, but also in strong colours. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

FILIPPO E FILIPPINO LIPPI

15 MAY-25 AUG

Rome celebrates the genius of Filippo and Filippino Lippi, the 15thcentury father and son artists, with an exhibition titled Ingenuity and bizarreness in Renaissance art. The show at Palazzo Caffarelli, part of the Capitoline Museums, features masterpieces by both Renaissance masters including Filippo Lippi's Madonna Trivulzio from the Castello Sforzesco in Milan and Filippino Lippi's Annunciazione from the Musei Civici di San Gimignano. Also on display is a a selection of important drawings that reveal Filippino Lippi's relationship not only with his father, in whose workshop he was trained, but also with Sandro Botticelli, in whose Florentine workshop Filippino entered following the death of his father in 1469. Palazzo Caffarelli, Capitoline Museums, www.museicapitolini.org.

NARCISO: LA FOTOGRAFIA ALLO SPECCHIO

15 MAY-3 NOV

The Baths of Caracalla in Rome hosts an exhibition of 78 iconic images by 35 of the most important photographers of the 20th and 21st centuries. The theme of the exhibition amid the Roman ruins is the mirror and mirror images, as immortalised by Narcissus. The exhibition includes large-scale images of celebrities, mysterious interiors and self portraits of the famed international photographers who include Cecil Beaton, Robert Capa, Lisetta Carmi, Robert Doisneau, Herbert List and Helmut Newton. The exhibition is part of a programme of events to celebrate the return of water to the Baths of Caracalla after 1,500 years with the recent unveiling of a large reflecting pool. For details see Soprintendenza Speciale di Roma website, www.soprintendenzaspecialeroma.it.

RARA AVIS: FASHION IN FLIGHT

24 APRIL-21 JULY

The Colosseum Archaeological Park stages a unique exhibition devoted to bird-themed haute couture from some of the most famous fashion houses in the world. Curated by Sofia Gnoli, the exhibition of sumptuous clothes and accesso-

Mario Testino at Palazzo Bonaparte. Myanmar, 2018, © Mario Testino.

World Press Photo exhibition at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Photo Mohammed Salem for Reuters.

entry at 18.30. For full details see website, www.colosseo.it.

ries is hosted in the 16th-century Farnese Aviaries on the Palatine Hill, set in the world's first botantic garden. Some of the show's highlights include a winged white swan dress by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior; a black swan dress by Alexander McQueen for Givenchy; a corset dress embroidered with rooster and pheasant feathers by Dolce&Gabbana Alta Moda; and a golden micro-dress with ostrich wings designed by Donatella Versace for Katy Perry who wore it to the MET Gala in 2018. Access to the exhibition is included in tickets for the Palatine Hill and can be visited every day (except on free entry days) from 09.00–18.45 with last

OUKA LEELE: UNA MOVIDA BÁRBARA

17 APRIL-7 JULY

The Museo di Roma in Trastevere hosts a retrospective dedicated to the Spanish photographer, artist and poet Ouka Leele who died in 2022. Born Bárbara Allende Gil de Biedma in 1957, Ouka Leele was a star of the Movida Madrileña cultural explosion that followed the end of the Francisco Franco dictatorship. The exhibition features her early photographs from her first exhibition in Madrid in 1978 up to her final series made in Asturias in 2014. There are about 100 photographs on display along with archive material including posters and publications featuring her images. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

IMPRESSIONISM: THE DAWN OF MODERNITY

30 MARCH-28 JULY

The Museo Storico della Fanteria in Rome celebrates Impressionism as part of celebrations to mark the 150th anniversary of the founding of the revolutionary art movement in Paris. The exhibition, which documents the origins and history of Impressionism, features around 200 works from private collections, most of which will be unfamiliar to the public. On display are works by Impressionist masters including Monet, Degas, Manet, Renoir,

Cézanne, Gauguin and Pissarro, as well as other lesser known artists. Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 9. For visiting details see exhibition website, www.navigaresrl.com/ mostra/impressionisti/.

EMOTION

29 NOV-7 JAN

Rome's Chiostro del Bramante presents a contemporary art exhibition devoted to the range of emotions that inspire artists as well as the feelings that artworks conjure up in the spectator. Curated by Danilo Eccher, the exhibition features works by Italian and international artists including AES+F, Mat Collishaw, Subodh Gupta, Carsten Höller, Eva Jospin, Kimsooja, Luigi Mainolfi, Masbedo, Annette Messager, Paul Morrison, Luigi Ontani, Tony Oursler, Piero Pizzi Cannella, Laure Prouvost, Pietro Ruffo, Alessandro Sciaraffa, Gregor Schneider, Paolo Scirpa, Nedko Solakov and Adrian Tranquilli. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

La Madonna col Bambino by Filippo Lippi, collection Banca Popolare di Vicenza, at Palazzo Caffarelli.

Determined Women by Angèle Etoundi Essamba.

Rara Avis: Moda in volo exhibition at the Uccelliere Farnesiane.

Photograph exhibition at the Baths of Caracalla. Photo F. Caricchia - Soprintendenza Speciale di Roma.

Festivals

IL CINEMA IN PIAZZA

1 JUNE-14 JULY

Rome film fans can watch movies on the big screen under the stars again this summer with the return of Il Cinema in Piazza. The 10th edition of the free festival takes place in several different locations and features big-name special guests from the world of Italian and international cinema. The festival returns to its base at Piazza S. Cosimato in Trastevere and its two other venues from previous editions: Parco della Cervelletta in the eastern Tor Sapienza suburbs and Monte Ciocci park at Valle Aurelia. A number of events will also take place at Cinema Troisi which was opened three years ago by the festival’s organisers, the Fondazione Piccolo America, an association of young film enthusiasts led by president Valerio Carocci. Films are screened in their original language with subtitles in Italian, while Italian movies are shown with subtitles in English. Screenings are held at 21.15 every night except Monday and Tuesday. All events are free, with the exception of those at Cinema Troisi. For programme see website, www.ilcinemainpiazza.it.

SUMMER MUSIC FEST

3 JUNE-13 SEPT

Many of the city’s most-anticipated concerts this summer are part of

various music festivals including Roma Summer Fest, based at the open-air Cavea venue at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The festival has a varied programme of acts including Queens of the Stone Age (4 July); Take That (8 July); Ludovico Einaudi (13-14 July); Marcus Miller (28 July); and Fat Boy Slim (4 Sept). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ROCK IN ROMA

13 JUNE-27 JULY

Rock in Roma also offers a multigenre programme featuring Italian and international artists at the Ippodromo delle Capannelle, with a few concerts also taking place at the Cavea. The 2024 line-up includes Bruce Dickinson (5 July); Cat Power sings Dylan (7 July); Placebo (8 July); Deep Purple (10 July); and Loreena McKennitt (22 July). Ippodromo delle Capannelle, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www. rockinroma.com.

VIDEOCITTÀ 5-7 JULY

Videocittà, the festival devoted to the most advanced forms of audiovisual and digital art, returns to Rome this

summer. The seventh edition of the annual event, which attracted more than 20,000 spectators last year, will take place once again at the Gasometro in the city’s Ostiense district. The festival comprises three days of video art, talks, live music, dj sets, videomapping and performances by leading audiovisual artists. For details see Videocitta website, www. videocitta.com.

LETTERATURE 7-16 JULY

Rome’s free international literature festival returns this summer in the spectacular open-air setting of the Palatine Hill over five evenings on 7, 9, 11, 13 and 16 July. The prestigious literary event features a host of award-winning Italian and international authors who will read from their work, supported by actors, acrobats, live music and light effects. The 23rd edition of the festival will see authors read new texts written especially for the festival, inspired by the 2024 theme - Questa è la Storia - a tribute to the celebrated Italian writer Elsa Morante who died in 1985. This year’s festival comes 50 years after the publication of Morante’s acclaimed novel La Storia, about the struggles of a half-Jewish widow and her sons in Rome during and after world war two. The festival’s guests this year include Alicia Giménez Bartlett, Paul Lynch and Peter Cameron. All Letterature events are free of charge, subject to availability, with tickets distributed on the night from 20.00. Events begin at 21.00, with access to the Palatine Stadium from 20.30. For details see website, www.culture.roma.it/festivaldelleletterature/.

Il Cinema in Piazza

Rock in Roma

Caracalla Festival 2024

JUNE 3 - AUGUST 10

Ballet

JULY 5, 17, 24, 26, 31, AUGUST 3, 7, 9

GIACOMO PUCCINI

CONDUCTOR ANTONINO FOGLIANI

DIRECTOR FRANCESCO MICHELI

CREATIVE SETTING

MASSIMILIANO E DORIANA FUKSAS

JULY 16, 25, 28 AUGUST 2, 4, 6, 8, 10

GIACOMO PUCCINI

Turandot

CONDUCTOR DONATO RENZETTI

DIRECTOR FRANCESCO MICHELI

CREATIVE SETTING

MASSIMILIANO E DORIANA FUKSAS

ORCHESTRA, CORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

JULY 9, 10

Le notti romane di Dior

WITH ELEONORA ABBAGNATO AND FRIEDEMANN VOGEL

CHOREOGRAPHERS GIORGIO MANCINI AND ANGELIN PRELJOCAJ

COSTUME DESIGNER MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE

JULY 19, 20

Roberto Bolle and Friends

Concerts

JULY 23

CONDUCTOR TIMOTHY BROCK FILM SCREENING WITH SOUNDTRACK PERFORMED LIVE

JULY 30

Rhapsody in Blue

CONDUCTOR AND SOLOIST WAYNE MARSHALL MUSIC BY GEORGE GERSHWIN AND LEONARD BERNSTEIN

opera

CARACALLA FESTIVAL

3 JUNE-10 AUG

Rome’s opera house, Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, stages more than 60 events at its summer festival among the ancient Roman ruins at the Baths of Caracalla. The Caracalla Festival 2024 spans 60 evenings and incorporates a range of genres including opera, symphonic music, dance, theatre, cinema and pop concerts. The programme of events takes place under the stars at the 4,500-seat arena and the Teatro del Portico in the area of the Temple of Jupiter, and will pay tribute to the great composer Puccini on the centenary of his death. Francesco Giambrone, superintendent of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, said that last year’s record 115,000 admissions encouraged organisers of the festival to add extra dates and broaden the scope of the multidisciplinary event. “To celebrate the centenary of Puccini’s death, we have commissioned the architect Massimiliano Fuksas with

the creative project of both operas on the programme, Tosca and Turandot” – Giambrone said – “Fuksas has created for us a tailor-made installation especially designed for the space of the Teatro Grande in Caracalla, with Francesco Micheli as music director.” In addition to the operas Tosca (5 July-9 August) and Turandot (16 July-10 August), the dance programme opens with Le notti romane di Dior (9-10 July), a performance that combines fashion, music and dance starring Eleonora Abbagnato along with the étoile, principal dancers, soloists and the Corps de Ballet of the Rome Opera. The traditional Roberto Bolle and Friends event also returns to Caracalla on 19 and 20 July. The festival pays homage to Walt Disney with a one-off symphonic concert on 23 July. Timothy Brock will conduct the Orchestra dell’Opera di Roma performing some of the highlights from the Disney film Fantasia (1940) and its sequel Fantasia 2000, along with the screening of some scenes from the animated classic. On 30 July, Wayne Marshall, in

the double capacity of pianist and conductor, will celebrate the centenary of George Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue, along with a selection of pieces from Porgy and Bess, An American in Paris, the overture from the musical Girl Crazy, and the suite Three Dance Episodes from Leonard Bernstein’s On the Town. Puccini will be celebrated with two theatre performances and a three-night film festival. There are also two jazz concerts on 18 July and 5 August, and three evenings of Late night jazz on 31 July, 2 and 3 August. A novelty this year will be exclusive guided tours at sunset which can be purchased in combination with tickets for opera or ballet performances scheduled for the same evening, by contacting promozione.pubblico@ operaroma.it.

Tickets for the performances range from €10 to €120 and are on sale at the box office of the Teatro dell’Opera of Rome and online via Ticketone. For Caracalla Festival programme see Teatro dell’Opera di Roma website, www.operaroma.it.

Caracalla Festival stages more than 60 events this summer.

CULTURE NEWS

US RETURNS €60 MILLION WORTH OF LOOTED ANTIQUITIES TO ITALY

600 antiquities stolen from Italy and returned with the help of authorities in the US recently went on display in Rome in a repatriation valued at around €60 million. The treasures, which had been smuggled out of Italy and sold illicitly in the US, were presented at the headquarters of the Central Institute for Restoration at the end of May. The artefacts, ranging from statues and vases to paintings and bronzes, include archaeological pieces from the ninth century BC to the second century AD, many of which were many of which were stolen by tombaroli (tomb raiders) in central-southern Italy. In addition to archaeological sites, the repatriated works of art were stolen from churches, museums and private homes before being trafficked out of Italy to the US. The artefacts were recovered thanks to the efforts of Italy’s Carabinieri art squad - the Command for the Protection of Cultural Heritage (TPC), the New York County district attorney’s office and Homeland Security Investigations (HSI). In 2022 Italy opened a new museum showcasing ancient artefacts looted from Italian archaeological sites and trafficked abroad before being rescued by art police. The Museo dell’Arte Salvata (Museum of Rescued Art) is housed in the Octagonal Hall at the Baths of Diocletian, part of the National Roman Museum network in Rome.

ANCIENT BEACH UNEARTHED AT HERCULANEUM

Herculaneum, the ancient Roman city buried by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, has opened its once hidden beach to visitors following a major conservation project. The works, which began in 2021, saw the original levels of the beach restored and sand brought back, allowing visitors to stroll on the ancient strand as it was before that fateful day in 79 AD. The director fo the Herculaneum archaeological park Francesco Sirano said that steps have been taken to reduce the risk of flooding and instability at the beach. During a dig along the ancient shoreline in the 1980s, archaeologists discovered the remains of almost 300 people who died from the intense heat while waiting for rescue from the sea, including the famed ‘Ring Lady’. Excavations at Herculaneum - a smaller, more affluent city

compared to nearby Pompeii - also uncovered a series of boat houses in which the last inhabitants perished. The reopening of the beach is the result of the Herculaneum Conservation Project (HCP), a public-private initiative in collaboration with the Packard Humanities Institute to protect, enhance and manage the archaeological site and its relationship to the surrounding area.

PALAZZO BARBERINI OPENS RESTAURANT

The visitor experience just got better at Palazzo Barberini, the national gallery of ancient art in Rome, with the opening of a new bar and restaurant on the grounds. After viewing the gallery’s stunning collection of masterpieces, visitors can stop at the Serre Barberini which offers lunch and brunch options as well as coffee and drinks. The new café restaurant is also accessible to those who are not visiting the museum, with street entrances from Via XX Settembre 2 and Via Quattro Fontane 13. Describing the new opening as “a service that has been absent until now”, the museum’s director Thomas Clement Salomon said the Serre Barberini will offer visitors, city residents and tourists “a stopping and meeting point in one of the most extraordinary places in Rome, a secret Italian garden”. The 19th-century greenhouse building, which has a fountain in the centre and overlooks the museum’s gardens, has been extensively restored and modified for its new purpose. The glass windows filter the sun’s rays, converting them into electricity via solar panels on the roof, and providing a pleasant indoor temperature.

Serre Barberini is open Tues-Sun from 09.00 to 19.00.

Andy Devane

A selection of the treasures recently returned to Italy.

Serre Barberini opens its doors.

The long-lost beach at Herculaneum.

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a deﬁnitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign ﬁlm festivals.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign ﬁlm festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Troisi, Via Girolamo Induno 1, www.cinematroisi.it.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rock pop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Laniﬁcio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

theatreCasa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

theatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

By Kate Zagorski

POLLO ALLA ROMANA

A homecooked classic, this Roman-style chicken is a wonderful summer recipe which makes the most of the season’s bright, plump, bell peppers. Tender pieces of chicken are slowly cooked with tomato, peppers and onion until the meat is falling o the bone and the sauce becomes succulent, sweet and sticky. A true crowd-pleaser, in Rome it is commonly served for lunch on the Ferragosto holiday on 15 August.

The recipe is in itself very simple and just requires a little time to prepare the peppers and let the ingredients work their magic. Although the dish can be served piping hot, it is just as satisfying when left to rest until room-temperature and should be served with plenty of bread to mop up the mouth-watering juices. Just make sure you have enough leftovers to pack into a sandwich the next day.

Ingredients

1 chicken, cut into pieces

4 red and yellow peppers

1 onion, roughly sliced

1 clove of garlic, peeled 500ml tomato passata

1 small bunch of fresh basil ½ glass white wine

½ glass extra virgin olive oil

Salt Pepper

To begin, preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the whole peppers on a baking tray, drizzle them lightly with oil and cook for 15 minutes until the skin starts to blister. Remove the peppers and, while still hot, put them into a plastic bag, tie the top and leave for 1 hour. Then remove the skins, slice into 1cm strips and put to one side.

Meanwhile, heat the rest of the oil in a large saucepan and gently fry the garlic clove until it starts to turn golden, then add the pieces of chicken and season with salt and pepper. Fry the chicken until the skin has browned and then add the onion. Cook for 5 minutes before pouring in the white wine. After a couple of minutes, once the alcohol has evaporated, add the tomato passata and the fresh basil leaves, check the seasoning, adding more salt if required.

Turn down the heat, cover the pan with a lid and cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the sauce becomes too dry add a little water to loosen it up.

Add the sliced, peeled peppers, stir and then cook for a further 15 minutes before serving.

Indirizzi

Terrazza S. Pancrazio, Via di Porta Osteria delle Coppelle Roma, Pianostrada Rome, Via delle Zoccolette

Trattoria da Teo Roma, Piazza

Marzapane al Caffè dell’Opera

Eating outside in Rome: the ten best restaurants with terraces and gardens

Our favourite restaurants and trattorie with terraces and gardens, where you can eat outdoors in Rome during the warmer months.

GIANICOLO – A COOL HANGOUT

Yugo a S. Pancrazio

Different plates of fusion cuisine are served on the S. Pancrazio terrace, a little north of Trastevere. With a menu curated by award-winning chef Anthony Genovese, here you can tuck into raw dishes, carpacci, tartare and ceviche, which are all accompanied by refreshing cocktails.

IN THE CENTRE – A TRENDY NIGHT OUT

Osteria delle Coppelle

Lunch or dinner of traditional but creative first and second courses. There’s saltimbocca alla romana with speck and fried sage, and you can also choose between pizza, bruschette, home made pastries (€6) or a huge salad (from €9 to €12), with the option to eat outside in the piazza.

TRASTEVERE – A GOURMET MEAL

Pianostrada

An elegantly styled restaurant with a lovely courtyard-garden, a great long bar and an exposed kitchen. You can try anything from fried antipasti (€10-13.50), salads, gourmet panini (€12.50-14.50), and excellent bread that’s made in house. We loved the artichokes alla giudìa, and the fig and sun dried tomato focaccia. Mon closed.

TRASTEVERE – FOR ROMAN CUISINE

Trattoria da Teo

Serving traditional Roman cuisine, such as excellent amatriciana, broccoli and skate soup, coda alla vaccinara, roast lamb, or even a fresh plate of fish. There are ten tables inside and a beautiful veranda in the piazza. The amatriciana costs €9 while a single courgette flower (which are absolutely excellent) costs €1.50. Sun closed.

CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL

Marzapane all’Opera

The menu at Marzapane is an array of traditional Italian dishes made with fresh ingredients and is particularly fish-focused. We enjoyed the tomato bread with jamon from Bellota (€13), insalata di lingua (salad with tongue) seasoned with turmeric, capers and mustard, mezze maniche pasta with amatriciana sauce (€19). Mon closed.

MONTI – GOURMET PIZZA AND CEVICHE

Madre

With a beautiful outdoor space, Madre is one of the coolest hangouts in Monti. Gourmet pizza and ceviche (€18) are the most popular dishes and they are indeed delicious. However prices are quite a bit higher than average – a Margherita with buffalo mozzarella costs €15, while La Roja, with prawns and smoked buffalo mozzarella, costs €26.

AVENTINO – A GOURMET MEAL

The Corner Marco Martini

At this award-winning restaurant and cocktail bar created by Marco Martini, you can dine in the beautiful terraced garden with a Liberty-style decor and sit yourself down on one of the couches or sink into an armchair. For lunch it is possible to order from one to three dishes costing between €10, €18 and €25; while for dinner there are different tasting menus costing from €95 to €200.

GARBATELLA – FOR ROMAN CUISINE

Ristoro degli Angeli

All ingredients come from the local Garbatella market and the menu boasts quite a few vegetarian recipes. For the first course there’s the focaccina with lard (made from organic Tuscan pork) for €8 while for your second course, try the rolled rhombus fish filled with ginger-seasoned vegetables (€20). Sun closed.

IN THE CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL

Osteria Siciliana

This little piece of Sicily seats around 60 people, half indoors and the rest outside. You could begin with stuffed artichokes (€13), vegetable caponata (€12), or sardines alla beccafico (€15). For your first course we recommend spaghetti with salted tuna and Sicilian lemon peel (€20) or lobster soup with spaghetti (€26).

TESTACCIO – FOR ROMAN CUISINE

Flavio al Velavevodetto

Great cooking and a very pleasant atmosphere, with both an internal courtyard and a stunning terrace for eating outside. Fish is served on Tuesdays and Fridays, gnocchi on Thursdays, and roast lamb on Saturdays. Try the handmade pasta alla gricia, amatriciana and carbonara (€9) or the meatballs in sauce (€12).

Porta S. Pancrazio 32.

Piazza delle Coppelle 54, tel. 0645502826. Zoccolette 22, tel. 0689572296.

dei Ponziani 7, tel. 065818355.

dell’Opera Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, tel. 0648160504.

Madre Roma, Largo Angelicum 1, tel. 066789046.

The Corner Marco Martini, Viale Aventino 121, tel. 0645597350.

Ristoro degli Angeli Roma, Via Luigi Orlando 2, tel. 0651436020.

Osteria Siciliana Rome, Via del Leoncino 28, tel. 0668805283.

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194.

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli

Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

Saint-Louis de France (French)

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it

Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com

Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian

South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00

Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church

Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen

(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance

Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org

Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre

St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it

Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355